®lj?  1. 1.  Bill  SItbrara 


5^nrth  (Earoltim  ^late  (TolUeP 

SB93 

B87 

1844 


ARCH,  im 


Bo7      'i'he  young  gardener  *s 
1644     assistc'Jit 


PER.  RESERVE 


Digitized  by  the  Internet  Archive 

in  2009  with  funding  from 

NCSU  Libraries 


http://www.archive.org/details/younggardenersasOObrid 


vr:?^;»-?.-^<^i/ 


^^  £^y^^. 


vi^. 


THE 


YOUNG  GARDENER'S  ASSISTANT, 

IN    THREE     PARTS: 

COXTAINING  CATALOGUES  OP  GARDEN  AND  ELOWER  SEED, 


PRACTICAL   DIRECTIOXS   UNDER   EACH   HEAD 

TOB   THE    CULTIVATION   OF 

CULINARY  VEGETABLES  AND  FLOWERS: 

ALSO,  DIRECTIOXS  FOR  CULTIVATING 

FRUIT  TREES,  THE  GRAPE  VINE,  &c. 

TO  WHICH  IS  ADDED, 

A  CALENDAR  TO  EACH  PART  : 

SHOWIJfG  THE  WORK  NECESSARY  TO  BE  DONE  IN  THE  VARIOL'S  DEPARTMENTS 
EACH  MONTH  OF  THE  YE.Ul. 

THE   WHOLE    ADAPTED    TO    THE    CLIMATE    OF    THE    UNITED    STATES. 

ELEVENTH    EDITION,  WITH    AN    APPENDIX, 

CONTAINING   REMARKS   ON   THE   ALLEGED   DISEASE    OF   THE   POTATO,   iiC. 


BY    THOMAS   BRIDGEMAN. 

GARDENER,    SEKDSMAN,   AND    FLORIST. 


NEW-YORK: 

FOR  S-ilLE  BY  THE  ArTHOR,  BROADWAY,  CORNER  OF  EIGHTEENTH  STREET, 
J.  M.  Thorbum  &  Co.,  15  Joliii  Street ;  Alex'r  Smith,  3«8  Broadway,  N.  Y. :  Wm.  Thorburn, 
Broadway,  Albany  ;  C.  F.  Crosman,  Rochester.  Hovey  &  Co.  ;  Joseph  Breck  &  Co.  ;  J  F. 
L.  L.  Warren,  Baston.  E.  W.  Bull,  Hartford,  Conn.  D.  Landretli  &  Munns;  H.  A.  Drcer, 
Philadelphia.  Gib-ion  &  Ritchie,  Newark,  N.  J.  K  Sinclair,  Jr.,  &  Co.,  Baltimore.  J.  F. 
Callan,  Washinfrton  City  ;  Henry  Cook,  Alexandria,  D.  C.  Frederick  Wittpenn,  Charleston, 
S  C.  ISlosely  &  Co.,  '.Molnle,  Vni.  ninn,  New  Orleans.  James  M.  Thorburn,  St.  Louis. 
Ely  &  Campbell ;  Hu.Mley  &  Co.,  Cincinnati.  Charles  A.  Peahndy,  Columbus,  Ga.  ;  and  other 
Seedsmen.— Also,  by  Saxfon  &  Miles,  £09  Broadway;  E.  Walker,  lU  Fulton  Street,  N.  Y. 
S.  Babcock ;  Croswell  &  Jewett,  New  Haven,  Conn. ;  and  Booksellers  in  general. 

1845"." 

Printed  by  A.  Hanford,  58  Nussau  Street. 


[Entered  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  ycir  Eighteen  Hundrerl 
and  Forty-four,  by  Thomas  Bridgemas,  in  the  Clerk's  Oflf.cc  of  the  Dis- 
trict Court  of  the  United  States,  for  tlic  Southern  District  of  New-York.] 


ttEREOTVPED  BT  VINCENT  L.  DILL, 
Su.  l-if  tNillon  Street.  New  Yoife. 


PREFACE. 


The  primary  object  in  first  publishing  Tiik  Young  Gau- 
dener's  Assistant,  was  to  enable  our  respectable  seedsmen, 
while  furnishing  a  catalogue  of  seed  for  the  use  of  the 
Kitchen  and  Flower  Gai'den,  to  afford  instruction,  at  a  trifling 
expense,  to  such  of  their  customers  as  had  not  a  regular 
gardener,  and  thereby  save  themselves  the  blame  of  those 
who  may  not  have  given  their  seed  a  fair  trial,  for  want  of 
knowing  how  to  dispose  of  it  in  the  ground. 

On  the  appearance  of  another  edition  of  this  work,  the 
Author  cannot  forbear  expressing  his  sense  of  obligation  to 
his  patrons  in  general,  and  to  his  fellow-seedsmen  in  par- 
ticular, for  the  interest  they  have  taken  in  circulating  the 
book,  thereby  evincing  their  approbation  of  this  humble 
attempt  to  serve  both  the  seedsman  and  the  gardener,  by 
supplying  directions  for  the  management  of  a  garden,  in  a 
manner  calculated  to  insure  success. 

Since  1829  this  work  has  been  gradually  extended  from 
96  pages  to  its  present  bulk,  and  of  two  thousand  copies 
which  have  been  issued  annually,  one-half  were  sold  from 
the  seed  store  of  Messrs.  Thorburn,  of  New  York.  The 
Boston  and  Philadelphia  seedsmen  have  also  contributed 
largely  to  its  circulation  ;  and  the  Author  is  gratified  in 
learning  that  his  labours  are  appreciated  by  eminent  horti- 
culturists, as  will  appear  from  the  following  extracts  : 

"  Dear  Sir — You  will  see  by  the  next  month's  '  New 
York  Farmer,'  if  you  have  not  already  seen  by  the  Albany 
papers,  that  several  copies  of  your  Young  Gardener's 
Assistant  were  given  as  premiums  by  the  State  Agricultural 
Society.*     Mr.  D.  B.  Slingerland  and  myself  were  on  the 

*  The  American  Institute  and  other  Societies  have  also  awarded  several 
copies  of  the  woik  as  premiums  for  superior  specimens  of  Garden  Products. 


IV.  PREFACE. 

committee  for  awarding  premiums,  and  thought  your  work 
was  deserving  encouragement,  and  that  even  in  this  small 
way  we  might  be  of  service  in  bringing  it  before  the  public 

as  WORTHV  OF  BEING  GIVEN  AS  PREMIUMS. 

"  Yours  very  respectfully, 

"  Alex-^nder  Walsh. 
"La.\sikcburgh,  November,  1S35." 


Extract  from  a  review  of  this  ivork,  in  the  Magazine  of  Horticulture, 
Botany,  c^c,  published  by  Hovey  ^  Co.,  Boston. 

"  The  work  is  written  in  plain  language,  easily  to  be  un- 
derstood l)y  the  young  beginner  in  gardening,  who  will  find 
it  a  great  help  ;  and  its  value,  even  to  the  partly  experienced 
person,  is  by  no  means  of  an  ordinary  character.  It  is 
ADAPTED  TO  OUR  CLIMATE,  and.  Unlike  compilations  from 
English  works,  the  novice  is  not  led  into  disappointment  by 
following  the  rules  there  laid  down,  as  he  generally  is  when 
following  the  advice  of  the  latter.  We  rejjeat,  that  as  far 
as  the  book  pretends,  it  is  worth  all  others  of  a  similar 

CHARACTER  THAT  HAVE  EVER  BEEN  PUBLISHED  IN  THIS  COUNTRY ; 

and  its  cheapness  should  place  it  in  the  hands  of  all  new 
beo-inners." 

o 

It  appears  from  an  article  in  *  The  New-York  Farmer 
and  Horticultural  Depository,'  that  the  first  edition  of  the 
work  was  noticed  in  Fi'ance.  The  editor  informs  us,  in  page 
295  of  the  fourth  volume,  "  That  one  of  the  leading  articles 
in  the  second  number  of  the  present  volume  of  the  'pinnules 
de  Vlnsiitute  Royal  Horticolc  de  Fremont,'  is  a  long  notice  of 
The  YoUxVG  Gardener's  Assistant,  by  T.  Bridgeman,  of 
this  city.  The  editor,  Le  Chevalier  Soulonge  Bodin,  speaks 
of  the  little  work  in  very  commendable  terms." 

Numerous  other  proofs  could  be  adduced  of  the  kind 
reception  the  work  has  met  with.  Suffice  it  to  state,  that  it 
has  been  extensively  noticed,  and  recommended  to  public 


patronage,  by  editors  of  literary  periodicals,  and  in  many  of 
those  publications  devoted  to  agricultural  and  horticultural 
pursuits,  in  various  parts  of  this  and  other  countries  ;  and 
the  Author  may  here  be  allowed  to  state,  without  incurring 
the  charge  of  vanity,  that  the  American  Institute,  at  their 
fourteenth  Annual  Fair,  expressed  their  approbation  of  the 
work  in  the  most  emphatic  manner  by  awarding  it  a  gold 

MEDAL. 

As  the  simplicity  of  cultivating  the  soil  may  lead  many  to 
think  that  a  "wayfaring  man,  though  a  fool,  could  not  easily 
err  therein,"  it  may  be  necessary  to  remind  such,  that  the 
vegetable  productions  of  the  earth,  being  natives  of  various 
soils  and  climates,  require  peculiar  management  when  culti- 
vated in  climates  different  from  those  in  which  nature  first 
produced  them  ;  and  that,  although  many  species  of  plants 
in  common  use  with  us  will  endure  the  heat  of  our  summers, 
others  can  only  be  raised  in  perfection  during  mild  and 
temperate  weather,  and  some  require  artificial  means  to  be 
used  out  of  the  ordinary  seasons  for  gaidening  operations. 

In  the  following  2:)ages,  no  efforts  have  been  spared  to 
impart  useful  information  in  the  several  branches  of  horti- 
culture. The  directions  for  the  cultivation  of  vegetables  are 
the  result  of  twenty-four  years'  assiduous  practice  and  obser- 
vation as  a  market  gardener;  and  it  is  presumed  that  the 
Authors  experience  in  other  departments  of  gardening  has 
been  sufficient  to  warrant  him  in  this  attempt  to  instruct  those 
who  are  not  acquainted  with  the  art.  The  Author  does  not 
consider'  it  derogatory  to  acknowledge,  that  he  has  frequently 
compared  his  ideas  with  those  of  other  authors,  and  that  he 
has  in  some  instances  availed  himself  of  the  benefit  of  their 
instructions ;  but  he  is  not  aware  that  in  so  doing  he  has 
adopted  any  ideas  merely  speculative  ;  to  avoid  which  he  has 
invariably  submitted  such  manuscript  to  the  scrutiny  of  expe- 
rienced gardeners  of  his  acquaintance,  and  the  result  has 
generally  been  such  as  to  confirm  him  in  his  original  positions. 

It  must  appear  evident  to  the  reader,  on  a  review  of  this 


work,  that  the  Author,  in  adopting  the  catalogue  form,  has 
been  enabled  to  give,  in  a  condensed  form,  as  much  informa- 
tion as  is  necessary  to  the  cultivation  of  each  particular  kind 
of  vegetable  ;  whereas,  had  he  pursued  the  course  most  of 
his  predecessors  have,  his  book  would  have  been  considerably- 
larger,  and  the  reader  must  have  been  at  the  trouble  of 
perusing  the  greater  part  of  it  at  least  twelve  times  in  the 
course  of  a  year.  The  Author,  however,  being  aware  of 
the  convenience  of  a  Monthly  Calendar,  has  in  this  edition 
annexed  one,  which  he  presumes  is  well  calculated  not  only 
to  assist  the  memory  of  the  gardener,  but  to  show  him,  at 
one  orlaTice,  the  work  necessary  to  be  done  in  the  various 
departments  of  gardening  in  every  month  of  the  year. 

The  Author,  having  shown  his  primary  object  in  adopting 
the  catalogue  form,  presumes  that  his  readers  will  not  be 
disappointed  if  they  do  not  find  there  the  names  of  all  the 
species  or  varieties  of  plants  they  may  wish  to  introduce  into 
their  gai-dens,  the  mode  of  culture  of  such  being  generally 
alike.  If  a  catalogue  of  this  kind  was  essential,  it  would 
occupy  more  space  than  is  allotted  to  this  book ;  besides,  it 
would  be  impossible  to  keep  pace  with  our  enterprising  hor- 
ticulturists and  florists,  who  are  continually  introducing  new 
species  into  our  country.  When,  also,  it  is  considered  that 
there  are  a  number  of  indigenous  plants  at  ])resent  unknown 
to  us,  it  will  appear  evident  that  the  most  extensive  catalogue 
would  not  be  perfect  in  this  respect  for  any  length  of  time; 
the  Author,  therefore,  thought  it  unnecessary  to  attempt  any 
thing  more  than  is  essential  to  the  attainment  of  a  tolerable 
share  of  the  products  of  the  garden,  by  ordinary  exertion. 
How  far  he  has  succeeded  in  this  respect,  must  be  left  for 
the  reader  to  decide. 

THOMAS  BRIDGEMAN. 


CONTENTS. 


GENERAL  REMARKS  ON  THE  MANAGEMENT  OF  A  KITCHEN 
GARDEN. 

g  Page. 

-  13 

-  14 

-  15 


On  laying  out  the  ground, 

A  blank-book  recommended,        .         .         -         -         - 

Method  of  using  manure,  (.'io/e) 

Observations  on  improving  various  soils — and  on  sowing 

seed  early, 

The  drilUng  system  recommended,       .         -         -         - 
Remedies  fur  the  destruction  of  insects,  {note,  19) 
On  the  most  proper  rotation  of  crops,  .         .         . 

A  table  showing  the  number  of  plants  that  may  be 

raised  on  an  acre  of  land,  at  given  distances,  which 

table  may  also  be  applied  to  other  objects. 
On  the  durability  of  the  germinative  properties  of  seed, 
A  table  or  classification  of  such  species  and  varieties  of 

seed  as  are  usually  cultivated  in  the  Kitchen  Garden, 
Explication  of  the  above  table,  .  -  -  -  - 
Adaptation  of  the  directions  in  this  book  to  all  climates, 


16 
17 
18 
21 


23 

25 

26 
27 
30 


A  CATALOGUE  OF  CULINARY  VEGETABLES  ;  WITH  PRACTICAL 
DIRECTIONS  UNDER  EACH  HEAD. 

[The  Notes  are  chiefly  calculated  to  guard  against  error  in  cultivation.] 


Artichoke,  -  -         - 

Asparagus,  {note,  36) 
Beans,  (EngUsh  Dwarfs) 
Beans,  (Kidney  Dwarfs) 
{note)         -         -     - 
Beans,  (Pole  or  Running) 
Beets,  (note) 
Borecole  or  Kale, 
Brussels  Sprouts, 
Broccoli,  {note,  49) 


31 

Cauliflower,  {note,  52)  - 

51 

34 

Cabbage,  {tioie,  55) 

54 

39 

Colewort  or  Collards,    - 

57 

Cardoons,     -         -         - 

58 

41 

Carrot,           -          -          . 

58 

42 

Celery,  {note,  61)  - 

60 

44 

Corn  Salad,  or  Fetticus, 

63 

46 

Cress,  -         -         -         - 

64 

47 

Cucumber,  {note)  - 

65 

4S 

Chives,  or  Cives,  - 

66 

X. 


CONTE.VTS. 


Pago. 

Egg-plant,  {note,  67)      -  66 

Endive,         -         -         -  68 

Horse-radish,          -          -  69 

Indian  Corn,          -  70 

Jerusalem  Artichoke,    -  70 

Leek,  -         .         -         -  71 

Lettuce,  {note)       -          -  72 

Melon,          ...  74 

Melon,  (Water)     -         -  75 

Mustard,       ...  76 

Nasturtium,            -         -  76 

Okra,    ....  77 

Onion,  {note,  78)    -         -  77 

Parsley,  {note,  SO)           -  79 

Parsnip,  [note)       -         -  81 

Pepper,         -         -         -  82 


Peas,    -         -         - 

Potato, 

Potato,  (Sweet,)    - 

Pumpkin, 

Radish,  {note) 

Rftcambole, 

Rhubarb, 

Salsify, 

Scorzonera, 

Sea-Kale, 

Skirret, 

Shallot, 

Spinach,  or  Spinage, 

Squash, 

Tomato, 

Turnip,  [note,  104) 


A  Catalogue  of  Aromatic,  Pot,  and  Sweet  Herbs, 
Annual,  Biennial,  and  Perennial  Plants  defined,  - 
Plants  culti\ated  for  Medicinal  purposes,     -         .         - 
Directions  for  the  cultivation  and  preseivation  of  Herbs 

in  general,  ....... 

Illustrations  of  drills,  to  be  used  for  various  kinds  of  seed, 
Representation  of  a  Hot-bed  with  four  sashes, 
Observations  on  Forcing  Vegetables,    -         -         -         - 

Forcing  Asparagus  in  Hot-beds,  .         .         .         . 

Forwarding  Broad  Beans,  or  English  Dwarfs, 
Forcing  Kidney  Beans,        ...--. 
Forwarding  Broccoli  and  Cauliflower,  -         .         . 

Forcing  Cucumbers  at  an  early  season,         .         _         . 
Forwarding  Cucumbers  in  April  and  May,  -         -         - 
Forwarding  Lettuce  for  use  in  the  winter,  .         -         . 
Forcing  Mushrooms  at  all  seasons,        .         .         -         . 
Forwarding  Melons  on  ridges  under  hand-glasses, 
Forcing  Peas  in  Hot-beds,  -         -         .         _         . 

Forcing  Potatoes  in  Hot-beds,  .         .         .         . 

Forwarding  Radishes  and  other  vegetables, 
Forwarding  Rhubarb  for  use  through  the  winter, 
Forwarding  Salad,  Herbs,  Small  Plants,  &c.. 
Forwarding  Tomatoes,         ...... 

Forcing  various  kinds  of  vegetables,    .         .         .         - 

Method  of  cultivating  the  Hop, 

Observations  on  the  weather,  as  influenced  by  changes 

of  the  moon,         -----._ 


Pafo. 

83 

85 

86 

87 

88 

89 

90 

92 

93 

94 

97 

97 

98 

100 

101 

102 

106 

106 

107 

108 
109 
112 
114 
117 
119 
119 
120 
121 
124 
124 
125 
131 
132 
133 
134 
135 
136 
136 
137 
139 

144 


CONTENTS.  jj 

A  table  for  prognosticating  the  weather  through  all  the  P"^^- 
lunations  of  the  year,  -         -  -         .  °     .         -  liC 

Introduction  to  the  Monthly  Calendar,  with  directions 

how  to  apply  it  to  different  climates,     -         -         .  147 
Januarv.— Suggestions  for  the  improvement  of  time  in 
reference  to  gardening — By  collecting  information 

on  the  subject — By  procuring  fencing  materials 

IManure  and  ingredients  for  the  destruction  of  insects. 
— Drilling  machines  and  garden  implements  in 
general,  preparatory  for  the  work  to  be  performed 

as  the  season  progresses, 248 

February.— Directions  for  providing  hot-bed  frames, 
forcing  pits,  and  materials  to  be  used  for  forcing  and 
forwarding  vegetables,  towards  the  end  of  the  rnonth 

— Also,  for  sowing  seed, 249 

l\lARCH.--Recommendations  on  various  subjects — As  at- 
tending to  the  hot-beds— regulating  their  tempera- 
ture—sowing such  kinds  of  seed  as  are  adapted 
tothe  season — Also,  in  manuring  and  digging  the 
soil  generally,  preparatory  to  sowing  and^'plantino- 

it  next  month, °  251 

April.— The  importance  of  this  month  to  an  industrious 
gardener  exemplified— who  is  recommended  to  sow 
all  the  various  kinds  of  seed  enumerated  in  the 
Calendar — to  attend  to  the  spring  dressing  of  his 
beds  of  Artichoke,  Asparagus,  Rhubarb,  Sea-Kale, 
&c. — and  to  the  Transplanting  of  various  kinds  of 

plants  in  due  season, 252 

^'^^^' — Directions  for  destroying  insects — and  weeds 

to  prevent  their  seeding  in  the  ground — Also,  for 
sowing  the  various  kinds  of  seed  intended'  for 
summer  crops;  including  the  Bene-plant,  with  a 
\iew  to  have  it  for  use  in  July.— This  is  also  a 
good  season  to  spawn  Mushroom  beds,  and  to  form 

new  ones.  Sec, 254 

June. — The  principal  sowing  season  being  nearly  over, 
the  gardener  is  reminded  of  the  necessity  of  ascer- 
taining the  success  of  former  plantings,  with  a  view 
to  make  up  deficiencies  before  the  month  is  too  far 
advanced — Also,  to  hoe  or  plough  between  early 

vegetables  in  general,  in  order  to  mature  them 

and  to  destroy  weeds— Directions  for  the  manacre- 
ment  of  Aitichokes,  Cauhflower,  Herbs,  Hop 
Vines.  &c.,  -  -         -         -         .  255 


XII.  CONTENTS. 

Fago. 

July. — Directions  for  traiisplaTiting  of  Cabbage,  Car- 
doons,  Celery,  Endive,  Leeks,  Pepper  Plants,  &c., 
— Also,  for  the  gathering  and  preserving  of  Aro- 
matic, Pot,  and  Medicinal  Heibs,  as  they  come  into 
blossom — and  for  the  cultivation  of  various  sorts 
of  vegetables  described  in  the  Calendar,       -         -  157 

August. — The  planting  season  being  nearly  over,  the 
gardener  is  recommended  to  manure,  dig,  and 
plough  vacant  ground  for  autumn  crops — to  attend 
to  Artichokes,  Hops,  Mushrooms,  Onions,  Shallots, 
Turnips,  &c.,  as  directed,     -----  158 

September. — The  business  of  this  month  consists  in 
finishing  the  sowing  of  seed  of  the  season — in  ma- 
turing various  kinds  of  vegetables,  by  hoeing  and 
earthing — and  in  the  gathering  of  Herbs,  Hops, 
&c.,  as  they  ai'rive  at  maturity,      -         -         -         -  159 

October. — Directions  for  preserving  various  plants  and 
vegetables — by  planting  Parsley,  Lettuce,  Cab- 
bage, Cauliflower,  &c.,  in  frames — by  providing  pits 
to  contain  Beets,  Potatoes,  &c., — and  by  laying 
away  Winter  Squashes,  Pumj^kins,  and  other  vege- 
tables designated,  for  use  through  the  winter,  -  161 

November. — The  best  methods  described,  of  stowing 
away  for  the  winter;  Broccoli,  Cauliflower,  Cab- 
bage, Cardoons,  Carrots,  Celery,  Horse-radish, 
Leeks,  Turnips,  and  such  other  vegetables  as  need 
protection — Also,  directions  for  the  winter  dressing 
of  the  beds  of  Artichoke,  Asparagus,  Rhubarb, 
and  Sea-Kale,       -------  162 

December. — Hints  on  various  subjects  connected  with 
the  preservation  of  plants,  vegetables,  and  imple- 
ments— and  for  collecting  suitable  manures,  com- 
post, &c.,  for  use  next  spring — Also,  suggestions 
for  ploughing  or  trenching  particular  kinds  of  soil, 
in  order  that  it  may  be  benefited  by  winter  frost,  163 


THK 

YOUNG  GARDENER'S  ASSISTANT. 

PART   I. 
VEGETABLE  DEPARTMENT. 


GENERAL   REMARKS 


MANAGEMENT  OF  A  KITCHEN  GARDEN. 


Before  commencing  the  Catalogue,  it  may  be  necessaiy 
to  direct  the  reader's  attention  to  some  important  matters, 
essential  to  the  good  management  of  a  Kitchen  Garden. 

The  mode  of  laying  out  the  giound  is  a  matter  of  taste, 
and  may  be  left  to  the  gardener  himself,  the  form  being  a 
thing  of  trifling  importance  in  the  production  of  useful  veo-e- 
tables ;  and  it  matters  not  whether  the  ground  be  laid  out  in 
beds  of  four  or  ten  feet  wide,  provided  it  be  well  worked 
and  the  garden  kept  neat  and  free  from  weeds. 

Those  who  have  not  a  garden  already  formed,  should, 
nowever,  fix  on  a  level  spot  where  the  soil  is  deep  ;  but  as 
we  have  not  always  a  choice,  I  would  recommend  the  reader 
to  that  which  is  within  his  reach,  and  ought  to  be  the  object 
of  every  man,  namely,  to  make  the  most  of  what  he  has. 

To  this  end,  he  may  form  a  border  round  the  whole  gar- 
den, from  five  to  ten  feet  wide,  according  to  the  size  of  the 
piece  of  land  ;  next  to  this  border,  a  walk  may  be  made  from 
three  to  six  feet  wdde ;  the  centre  part  of  the  garden  may  be 
divided  into  squares,  on  the  sides  of  which  a  border  may  be 
laid  out  three  or  four  feet  wide,  in  which  the  various  kinds 
of  herbs  may  be  raised,  and  also  Gooseben-ies,  Currants, 
Raspberries,  Strawben-ies,  &c.  The  centre  beds  may  be 
planted  with  all  the  various  kinds  of  vegetables.  The  outside 
Dorders,  facing  the  east,  south,  and  Avest,  will  be  useful  for 
raising  the  earliest  fruits  and  vegetables ;  and  the  north  bor- 
der, being  shady  and  cool,  will  sei-ve  for  raising  and  pricking 


14  GENERAL    REMARKS. 

out  such  young  plants,  herbs,  and  cuttings,  as  require  to  he 
screened  from  the  intense  heat  of  the  sun. 

It  may  be  necessary  to  state  farther,  that  though  shady 
situations  are  useful  for  the  pui-pose  of  raising  Celery,  Cab- 
bage, and  other  small  plants,  slips,  &c.,  in  the  summer  season, 
all  standard  trees  should  be  excluded  from  a  Kitchen  Garden 
for  the  following  reasons  :  First,  their  roots  spread  so  widely, 
and  imbibe  so  much  moisture  from  the  ground,  that  little  is 
left  for  the  nourishment  of  any  plant  within  the  range  of 
their  influence ;  secondly,  when  in  full  leaf,  they  shade  a 
large  space,  and  obstruct  the  free  circulation  of  the  air,  so 
essential  to  the  well-being  of  all  plants ;  and,  thirdly,  the 
droppings  from  trees  are  particularly  injurious  to  whatever 
vegetation  they  fall  upon. 

Previous  to  entering  on  the  work  of  a  garden,  the  gar- 
dener should  lay  down  rules  for  his  future  government.  In 
order  to  this,  he  should  provide  himself  with  a  blank  book, 
in  which  he  should  first  lay  out  a  plan  of  his  garden,  allot- 
ting a  place  for  all  the  different  kinds  of  vegetables  he  intends 
to  cultivate.  As  he  proceeds  in  the  business  of  planting  his 
grounds,  if  he  should  keep  an  account  of  every  thing  he  does 
relative  to  his  garden,  he  would  soon  obtain  some  knowledge 
of  the  art.  This  the  wi'iter  has  done  for  more  than  twenty 
years,  and  he  flattei'S  himself  that  a  publication  of  the  results 
of  his  practice  will  be  interesting  and  useful  to  his  readers. 

If  gardeners  would  accustom  themselves  to  record  the 
dates  and  particulars  of  their  transactions  relative  to  tillage, 
planting,  &c.,  they  would  always  know  when  to  expect  their 
seed  to  come  up,  and  how  to  regulate  their  crops  for  suc- 
cession ;  and,  when  it  is  considered  that  plants  of  the  Bras- 
sica,  or  Cabbage  tribe,  are  apt  to  get  infected  at  the  roots,  if 
too  frequently  planted  in  the  same  ground,  and  that  a  rota- 
tion of  crops  in  general  is  beneficial,  it  will  appear  evident 
that  a  complete  register  of  every  thing  relative  to  culture  is 
essential  to  the  well-beinsr  of  a  garden. 

One  important  point  to  be  attended  to,  is  to  have  a  supply 


GENEUAL    REMARKS.  15 

of  good  old  manure,  and  other  composts,  ready  to  incorpo- 
rate with  the  earth ;  and  also  a  portion  of  ashes,  soot,  tobacco 
dust,  and  lime,  for  the  purpose  of  sowing  over  seed  beds  in 
dry  weather,  to  destroy  insects,  which  sometimes  cut  off 
young  plants  as  fast  as  they  come  up. 

If  the  ground  cannot  be  all  manured  every  year,  as  it 
should  be,  it  is  of  primary  importance  that  those  vegetables 
be  provided  for  which  most  need  manure.  A  perusal  of  the 
Catalogue  will  enable  the  young  gardener  to  judge  of  the 
kinds  of  garden  products  which  require  it  most.  Lest  I 
should  not  have  been  explicit  enough  in  this  particular,  I 
would  inform  him  that  good  rich  manure  is  indispensably  ne- 
cessary for  the  production  of  Broccoli,  Cauliflower,  Cabbage, 
Lettuce,  Spinage,  Onions,  Radishes,  and  Salads  in  general. 

In  the  event  of  a  scanty  supply  of  manure,  those  kinds  of 
vegetables  which  are  raised  in  hills  or  drills,  may  be  pro- 
vided for  by  disposing  of  the  manure  immediately  under  the 
seed  or  plants.* 

The  next  important  matter  is  to  have  the  ground  in  suita- 
ble condition  to  receive  the  seed.     I  wish  it  to  be  understood 


*  As  some  cultivators,  by  tlieir  method  of  using  manure,  show  that  they 
have  very  erroneous  ideas  as  to  its  real  object  or  utility,  I  would  remind 
6uch,  that  manure  should  be  applied  with  a  view  to  renovate  and  strengthen 
the  natural  soil,  and  not  as  a  receptacle  for  seed.  In  order  that  manure 
may  have  a  salutary  effect,  it  sliould  be  thoroughly  incorporated  with  the 
earth,  by  the  operation  of  digging  or  ploughing.  When  it  is  used  in  hills 
or  on  a  given  spot,  it  should  be  well  pulverized  and  mixed  with  the  earth 
so  as  to  form  a  compost.  These  remarks  apply  especially  to  strong  ani- 
mal manures,  the  excrements  of  fowls,  as  also  to  soaper's,  tanner's,  and 
glue  manufacturer's  manure,  rags,  &c.  Lime,  ashes,  bone  dust,  poudrette, 
urate,  salt,  sulphur,  gypsum,  nitrate  of  potash,  and  oiher  portable  manures, 
may  be  sown  over  (he  land  previous  to  harrowing  or  raking  it,  or  such 
manures  may  be  formed  into  a  compost  when  used  in  hills  or  drills.  They 
should  in  every  case  be  used  with  caution,  as  an  indiscreet  use  of  them 
will  destroy  the  seed  or  plants,  and  thus  defeat  the  cultivator's  object. 
Many  gardeners  can  corroborate  these  facts,  from  having  used  strong  com- 
post as  a  mould  for  their  hot-beds,  thereby  poisoning  the  germs  of  the  seed, 
and  causing  tlie  plants  to  die  off  prematurely;  and  it  is  notorious  that  a 
great  proportion  of  failing  crops  is  occasioned  by  an  injudicious  mode  of 
using  manure. 


16  GENERAL    REMARKS. 

that  I  am  an  advocate  for  early  sowing  and  planting,  even  at 
the  risk  of  losing  a  little  seed,  provided  the  gi'ound  be  fit  to 
receive  it.  A  light,  sandy  soil  will  be  benefited  if  worked 
when  moist,  as  such  treatment  will  have  a  tendency  to  make 
it  more  compact ;  on  the  contrary,  if  a  clayey  soil  be  worked 
when  too  wet,  it  kneads  like  dough,  and  never  fails  to  bind 
when  drought  follows  ;  and  this  not  only  prevents  the  seed 
from  rising,  but  injures  the  plants  materially  in  their  subse- 
quent gi'owth,  by  its  becoming  imj^ervious  to  moderate  rains, 
dews,  air,  and  the  influence  of  the  sun,  all  of  which  are 
necessary  to  the  promotion  of  vegetation. 

Some  gardeners,  as  well  as  some  writers,  recommend 
certain  fixed  days  for  sowing  and  planting  particular  kinds 
of  seed;  I  think  it  necessary  to  guard  my  readers  against  being 
misled.  The  failure  of  crops  may  be  often  attributed  to  the 
observance  of  certain  days  for  sowing.  If  some  kinds  of  seed 
be  sown  when  the  ground  is  wet  and  cold,  they  will  become 
chilled  in  the  ground,  and  seldom  vegetate.  If  they  be  sown 
in  very  dry  weather,  the  germinative  parts  of  the  seed  may 
become  injured  by  the  burning  rays  of  the  sun,  or  the  young 
plants  may  get  devoured  by  insects  as  fast  as  they  come  up. 
To  ob\'iate  these  difiiculties,  I  have  generally  allowed  a  week 
or  ten  days  for  sowing  the  seed,  intending  the  medium  as  the 
proper  time  for  the  vicinity  of  New- York.  With  this  clearly 
borne  in  mind,  the  reader  who  obscn'es  the  difference  in  the 
degrees  of  heat  and  cold  in  the  different  parts  of  the  country, 
will  know  how  to  apply  these  instructions  accordingly. 

Much  depends  on  the  manures  used  on  particular  kinds 
of  soil.  The  great  art  of  improving  sandy  and  clayey  soils, 
consists  in  giving  the  former  such  dressings  of  clay,  cow 
dung,  and  other  kinds  of  manure,  as  will  have  a  tendency  to 
bind  and  make  them  more  compact,  and  consequently,  more 
retentive  of  moisture ;  and  to  the  latter,  coats  of  horse  dung, 
ashes,  sand,  and  such  other  composts  as  may  tend  to  sepa- 
rate the  particles  and  open  the  pores  of  the  clay,  so  as  to 
cause  it  to  approach  as  nearly  as  possible  to  a  loam. 


GENERAL    REMARKS.  jy 

The  nearer  the  gi-ound  approaches  to  a  sandy  soil,  the  less 
retentive  will  it  be  of  moisture ;  the  more  to  a  clayey,  the 
longer  will  it  retain  it ;  and  the  finer  the  particles  of  which 
the  clay  is  composed,  the  more  tenacious  will  it  be  of  water, 
and,  consequently,  the  longer  in  drying,  and  the  harder  when 
dry ;  but  earth  of  a  consistence  that  will  hold  water  the  long- 
est, wiihoiit  becoming  hard  when  dry,  is,  of  all  others,  the  best 
adapted  for  raising  the  generality  of  plants  in  the  gi-eatest 
perfection.  This  last  described  soil  is  called  loam,  and  is  a 
medium  earth,  between  the  extremes  of  clay  and  sand. 

I  have,  in  most  cases,  recommended  drills  to  be  made  at 
certain  depths  for  the  different  kinds  of  seed ;  and  when  I 
have  stated  that  the  drills  should  be  two  inches  deep,  it  is 
intended  that  the  seed  should  be  covered  only  one  inch, 
which  it  will  be  when  planted  in  these  drills,  and  covered ; 
and  so  in  proportion  for  any  other  depth  required.  This 
may  serve  as  a  guide  to  the  young  gardener,  but  circum- 
stances alter  cases;  if,  for  instance,  some  particular  crops 
should  fail,  this  would  render  it  necessary,  if  the  season  be 
far  advanced,  to  risk  a  farther  planting  of  seed,  even  if  the 
weather  be  hot  and  the  ground  dry.  If  this  be  planted  a 
httle  deeper,  it  may  escape  the  violent  heat  of  the  sun,  and 
in  the  event  of  a  shower,  the  ground  would  become  suffi- 
ciently moist  to  bring  it  up ;  whereas  it  sometimes  happens 
that  seed  sown  after  a  shower  does  not  vegetate  until  after  the 
season  is  too  far  advanced  to  bring  the  crop  to  perfection. 

The  work  of  drilling  by  those  who  have  no  machine,  may 
be  perfonned  in  various  ways ;  in  some  cases  a  plough  is 
used,  in  others  a  small  hoe,  or  a  dibble  drawn  alono-  the  edge 
of  a  board  or  line  ;  it  is  of  little  consequence  which  way  the 
work  is  done,  if  it  be  well  done.  While  I  leave  the  gardener 
to  make  his  own  choice  of  tools,  I  would  suggest  that  he  be 
provided  with  two  or  three  drilling  machines ;  these,  every 
handy  man  can  make  for  himself;  they  should  be  in  the 
form  of  a  garden  rake,  with  a  stout,  heavy  back,  and  five 
teeth,  about  two  inches  broad,  and  tapered  so  as  to  enter  the 


18  GENERAL    REMAKKS. 

ground,  and  leave  drills  two  inches  deep.  If  one  be  made 
with  the  teeth  eight  inches  apart,  another  twelve,  and  another 
fourteen,  they  will  be  useful  in  making  drills  for  the  various 
kinds  of  seed ;  and  drills  thus  made  serve  instead  of  strain- 
ing a  line  when  transplanting  Cabbage,  Lettuce,  Leek  plants, 
&c. ;  the  line  being  stretched  at  one  edge  of  the  bed,  and 
the  drilling  machine  drawn  straight  by  the  line,  makes  five 
drills  at  once.  If  they  are  straight,  they  may  be  kept  so,  by 
keeping  one  drill  open  for  the  outside  tooth  to  work  in,  until 
the  ground  be  all  drilled. 

Gardeners  practice  different  methods  of  covering  up  seed ; 
some  do  it  with  a  hoe,  others  with  a  rake  or  harrow ;  some 
draw  a  portion  of  the  earth  to  the  side  of  the  bed,  and  after 
sowing  the  seed,  return  it  regularly  over  the  bed ;  in  some 
particular  cases  a  sieve  is  used,  in  others  a  roller.  Rolling  . 
or  treading  in  seed  is  necessary  in  dry  seasons,  but  it  should 
never  be  done  when  the  gi'ound  is  wet. 

There  is  nothing  that  protects  young  crops  of  Turnips, 
Cabbage,  and  other  small  plants,  from  the  depredations  of  the 
fly,  so  well  as  rolling ;  for  when  the  surface  is  rendered  com- 
pletely smooth,  these  insects  are  deprived  of  the  harbour 
tliey  would  otherwise  have  under  the  clods  and  small  lumps 
of  earth.  This  method  will  be  found  more  effectual  than 
soaking  the  seed  in  any  preparation,  or  dusting  the  plants 
with  any  composition  whatever ;  but  as  the  roller  must  only 
be  used  previous  to  or  at  the  time  of  sowing  the  seed,  and 
not  even  then  if  the  ground  be  wet,  it  is  necessary  that  the 
gardener  should  have  a  hogshead  always  at  hand  in  dry 
weather,  containing  infusions  made  of  waste  tobacco,  lime, 
soot,  cowdung,  elder,  burdock  leaves,  &c.  A  portion  of  these 
ingredients,  or  any  other  preparation  that  is  pernicious  or 
poisonous  to  insects,  without  injuring  the  plants,  thrown  into 
a  hogshead  kept  filled  up  with  water,  if  used  moderately  over 
beds  of  young  plants  in  dry  weather,  would,  in  almost  every 
case,  insure  a  successful  crop. 

Saltpetre  is  pernicious  to  many  species  of  insects  j  it  is 


GENERAL    REMARKS.  19 

also  an  excellent  manure,  and  may  be  used  to  great  advan- 
tage when  dissolved  in  the  proportion  of  one  pound  to  four 
gallons  of  water.  This  liquid,  applied  to  plants  through  the 
rose  of  a  watering-pot,  will  preserve  health  and  vigour. 
Soapsuds  are  equally  beneficial,  if  used  occasionally  in  the 
same  manner — say  once  a  week.  These  remedies,  applied 
alternately,  have  been  known  to  preserve  Melon  and  Cucum- 
ber vines  from  the  ravages  of  the  yellow  fly,  bugs,  blight, 
&c.,  and  to  keep  the  plants  in  a  thriving  condition. 

As  liquid,  however,  cannot  be  conveniently  used  on  a  large 
piece  of  land,  it  may  be  necessary,  if  insects  are  numerous, 
to  sow  tobacco  dust,  mixed  with  road  dust,  soot,  ashes,  lime, 
or  the  dust  of  charcoal,  in  the  proportion  of  half  a  bushel  per 
acre,  every  morning,  until  the  plants  are  free  or  secure  from 
their  attacks.  Turnip  seed  will  sometimes  spi'out  in  forty- 
eight  hours.  Cabbage  seed  ought  to  come  up  within  a  week 
after  it  is  sown  ;  but  it  sometimes  happens  that  the  whole  is 
destroyed  before  a  plant  is  seen  above  ground ;  the  seeds- 
man, in  this  case,  is  often  blamed,  but  without  cause.* 

A  correspondent  has  communicated  the  result  of  an  exper- 
iment he  has  tried  for  jireventing  the  attacks  of  flies  or  fleas 
on  Turnips.  He  says,  "  Steep  your  seed  in  a  pint  of  warm 
water  for  two  hours,  in  which  is  infused  one  ounce  of  salt- 
petre ;  then  dry  the  seed,  and  add  currier's  oil  sufficient  to 
wet  the  whole ;  after  which  mix  it  with  plaster  of  Paris,  so 
as  to   separate   and  render  it  fit  for  sowing."     Fish  oil  is 

•  As  the  truth  of  the  old  adage,  That  one  ounce  of  prevention  is  of  more 
value  than  a  pound  of  cure,  is  very  generally  admitted,  I  would  recom- 
mend the  following  method  of  preparing  a  bed  for  the  purpose  of  raising 
Cabbage,  Cauliflower,  Broccoli,  and  such  other  plants  as  are  subject  to  the 
attacks  of  insects  :  After  digging  or  ploughing  the  ground  in  the  usual 
way,  collect  any  combustibles  that  are  attainable,  as  dried  weeds,  sedge, 
turf,  brushwood,  leaves,  stubble,  corn-stalks,  sawdust,  or  even  litter  from 
the  dung-heap,  which  should  be  placed  in  heaps  on  the  seed-beds  and 
burned  to  ashes ;  then  rake  the  ground  over  and  sow  the  seed,  which  will 
not  be  attacked  by  insects  while  the  CiTects  of  the  fire  remain.  In  the 
event  of  extremely  dry  weather,  water  the  beds  every  evening  until  the 
plants  are  in  full  leaf.     This  is  an  infallible  remedy. 


% 


20  GENERAL    REMARKS. 

known  to  be  destructive  to  ants  and  various  other  small 
insects,  but  it  is  difficult  to  apply  to  plants. 

In  the  summer  season,  Broccoli,  Cabbage,  Cauliflower, 
&c.,  are  particularly  subject  to  the  ravages  of  gi-ubs  and 
caterpillars ;  to  prevent  this  wholly,  is  perhaps  impossible, 
but  it  is  not  difficult  to  check  these  troublesome  visitors ;  this 
may  be  done  by  searching  for  them  on  their  first  appearance, 
and  destroying  them.  Early  in  the  morning,  grubs  may  be 
collected  from  the  earth,  within  two  or  three  inches  of  such 
plants  as  they  may  have  attacked  the  night  previous. 

The  approach  of  catei-pillai's  is  discoverable  on  the  leaves 
of  Cabbages,  many  of  which  are  reduced  to  a  thin  white  skin 
by  the  minute  insects  Avhich  emerge  from  the  eggs  placed  on 
tliem ;  these  leaves  being  gathered  and  thrown  into  the  fire, 
a  whole  host  of  enemies  may  be  destroyed  at  once  ;  whereas, 
if  they  are  suffered  to  remain,  they  will  increase  so  rapidly, 
that  in  a  few  days  the  plantation,  however  extensive,  may 
become  infested ;  and,  when  once  these  arrive  at  the  butterfly 
or  moth  stage  of  existence,  they  become  capable  of  perpetu- 
ating their  destructive  race  to  an  almost  unlimited  extent 
The  same  remarks  apply  to  all  other  insects  in  a  torpid  state. 

Worms,  maggots,  snails,  or  slugs,  may  be  driven  away  by 
sowing  salt  or  lime  in  the  spring,  in  the  proportion  of  two  to 
three  bushels  per  acre,  or  by  watering  the  soil  occasionally 
with  salt  and  water,  using  about  two  pounds  of  salt  to  foui 
gallons  of  water ;  or  the  slug  kind  may  be  easily  enti-apped 
on  small  beds  of  plants,  by  strewing  slices  of  turnip  on  them 
late  in  the  evening ;  the  slug  or  snail  will  readily  crowd  on 
them,  and  may  be  gathered  up  early  in  the  morning  (before 
sunrise)  and  destroyed. 

Moles  may  be  annoyed  and  diiven  away,  by  obstructing 
the  passage  in  their  burrows  with  sticks  smeared  with  tar. 
First  insert  a  clean  stick  from  the  surface  through  the  bur- 
rows ;  then  dip  others  in  tar,  and  pass  them  through  into  the 
floor  of  the  buiTOWs,  being  careful  not  to  rub  off  the  tar  in 
.the  operation.     Tar  is  also  an  effectual  remedy  against  smut 


GENERAL    REMARKS.  21 

in  wheat :  after  being  heated  in  a  kettle  until  it  becomes 
thin,  it  may  be  stirred  in  among  the  grain  until  it  becomes 
saturated.  The  wheat  should  afterward  be  mixed  with  a 
sufficient  quantity  of  wood  ashes  to  diy  and  render  it  fit  for 
sowing. 

To  prevent  depredations  from  crows,  steep  com  in  strong 
saltpetre  brine,  sow  it  over  the  land,  or  steep  your  seed  com; 
and  if  the  crows  once  get  a  taste,  they  will  forsake  the  field. 

Perhaps  the  next  important  point  to  be  attended  to  is  the 
most  proper  rotation  of  crops.  Virgil,  who  was  a  philoso- 
pher as  well  as  a  poet,  very  justly  obsei-ves,  that  "  the  trub 

REPOSE  OF  THE  EARTH  IS  A  CHANGE  OF  ITS  PRODUCTIONS." 

It  is  a  curious  fact,  that  a  plant  m.ay  be  killed  by  the 
poison  which  it  has  itself  secreted,  as  a  viper  may  be  de- 
stroyed by  its  own  venom.  Hence  it  has  been  very  gene- 
rally noticed,  that  the  soil  in  v/hich  some  particular  vege- 
tables have  grown,  and  into  which  they  have  discharged  the 
excretions  of  their  roots,  is  rendered  noxious  to  the  prosperity 
of  plants  of  the  sam.e  or  allied  species,  though  it  be  well 
adapted  to  the  growth  and  support  of  other  distinct  species 
of  vegetables. 

It  is  proved  by  experience,  that  fall  Spinach  is  an  excellent 
preparative  for  Beets,  Carrots,  Radishes,  Salsify,  and  all  other 
tap,  as  well  as  tuberous  rooted  vegetables. 

Celery  or  Potatoes  constitute  a  suitable  preparative  for 
Cabbage,  Cauliflower,  and  all  other  plants  of  the  Brassica 
tribe;  as  also  Artichokes,  Asparagus,  Lettuce,  and  Onions, 
provided  such  ground  be  well  situated,  which  is  a  circum- 
stance always  to  be  duly  considered  in  laying  out  a  garden. 

Lands  that  have  long  lain  in  pasture  are,  for  the  first  three 
or  four  years  after  being  tilled,  superior  for  Cabbage,  Tur- 
nips, Potatoes,  &c.,  and  afterward  for  culinary  vegetables  in 
general. 

The  following  rules  are  subjoined  for  farther  government : 

Fibrous  rooted  plants  may  be  alternated  with  tap  or 
tuberous  rooted,  and  vice  versa. 


0 


Jg2  GENERAL    REMARKS. 

Plants  which  produce  hixuriant  tops,  so  as  to  shade  the 
land,  to  be  succeeded  by  such  as  yield  small  tops,  or  narrow 
leaves. 

Plants  which  during  their  growth  require  the  operation  of 
stirring  the  earth,  to  precede  such  as  do  not  admit  of  such 
culture. 

Ground  which  has  been  occupied  by  Artichokes,  Aspara- 
gus, E.hubarb,  Sea  Kale,  or  such  other  crops  as  remain  long 
on  a  given  spot,  should  be  subjected  to  a  regular  rotation  of 
crops,  for  at  least  as  long  a  period  as  it  remained  under  such 
permanent  crops.  Hence,  in  all  gardens  judiciously  man- 
aged, the  Strawben-y  bed  is  changed  every  three  or  four 
years,  till  it  has  gone  the  circuit  of  all  the  compartments  ; 
and  Asparagus  beds,  «Scc.,  should  be  renewed  on  the  same 
principle,  as  often  as  they  fail  to  produce  luxuriantly.  In- 
deed, no  two  crops  should  be  allowed  to  ripen  their  seed  in 
succession  in  the  same  soil,  if  it  can  be  avoided ;  because,  if 
it  be  not  exhausted  by  such  crops,  weeds  will  accumulate 
more  than  on  beds  frequently  cultivated. 

Manure  should  be  applied  to  the  most  profitable  and  ex- 
hausting crops ;  and  the  succession  of  crops  should  be  so 
arranged,  that  the  ground  may  be  occupied  by  plants  either 
valuable  in  themselves,  or  which  may  contribute  to  the  in- 
creased value  of  those  which  are  to  follow  ;  and  the  value  of 
the  labour  required  to  mature  vegetables,  and  prepare  them 
for  market,  should  be  always  taken  into  consideration. 

Many  kinds  of  seed,  such  as  Aspai'agus,  Capsicum,  Celery, 
Fetticus,  Leek,  Lettuce,  Onion,  Parsnip,  Parsley,  Rhubarb, 
Salsify,  Spinach,  &:c.,  will  not  vegetate  freely  in  dry  weather, 
unless  the  ground  be  watered  or  rolled;  where  there  is  no 
roller  on  the  premises,  the  following  contrivance  may  answer 
for  small  beds  as  a  substitute  :  after  the  seed  is  sown,  and  the 
ground  well  raked,  take  a  board  the  whole  length  of  the  bed, 
lay  it  flat  on  the  ground,  begin  at  one  edge  of  the  bed,  and  walk 
the  whole  length  of  it ;  this  will  press  the  soil  on  the  seed, 
then  shift  the  board  till  you  have  gone  over  the  whole  bed. 


GENERAL    REMARKS. 


23 


In  the  absence  of  boards,  tread  in  the  seed  with  your  feet, 
or  stiike  on  the  bed  with  the  back  of  your  spade  or  shovel; 
but  this  should  not  be  done  when  the  gi'ound  is  wet. 

If  it  be  necessary  at  any  time  to  sow  seed  in  extremely  dry 
weather,  it  is  recommended  to  soak  the  seed  in  water,  and 
dry  it  with  sulphur.  This  practice,  with  attentive  water- 
ing, will  cause  the  seed  to  vegetate  speedily. 

If  it  should  be  requisite  to  transplant  any  thing  when  the 
ground  is  dry,  the  transplanting  should  always  be  done  as 
soon  as  the  earth  is  turned  over,  and  the  roots  of  the  plants, 
before  they  are  set  out,  should  be  steeped  in  mud  made 
of  rich  compost. 

I  have,  in  most  cases,  recommended  seed  to  be  sown  in 
drills  drawn  from  eight  to  twelve  inches  apart,  in  preference 
to  sowing  broadcast,  because  the  weeds  can  be  more  easily 
destroyed  by  means  of  a  small  hoe,  which,  if  properly  used, 
greatly  promotes  the  growth  of  young  plants. 


The  following  table  may  be  useful  to  the  gardener,  in 
showing  the  number  of  plants  or  trees  that  may  be  raised  on 
an  acre  of  ground,  when  planted  at  any  of  the  under-men- 
tioned distances : 


Distance  apart.  No.  of  Plantg. 

1  foot 43,560 

1^  feet 19,300 

2  feet 10,890 

2h  feet G,969 

3  feet 4,840 

4  feet 2,722 

5  feet 1,742 

6  feet 1,210 


Distance  apart.  No.  of  Plants. 

9  feet 537 

12  feet 362 

15  feet 193 

IS  feet 134 

21  feet 98 

24  feet 75 

27  feet 59 

30  feet 48 


The  preceding  table  may  serve  as  a  guide  to  such  as  are 
not  expert  in  arithmetic,  in  laying  out  a  garden,  as  it  shows 
at  one  view  many  proportions  of  an  acre  of  land,  in  squares 


24  GENERAL    REMARKS. 

of  different  dimensions.  The  last  line,  foi*  instance,  shows 
that,  if  forty-eight  trees  be  planted  on  an  acre,  each  thirty 
feet  apart,  there  may  be  forty-eight  beds  of  thirty  feet  square, 
or  thirty  beds  of  forty-eight  feet  square,  formed  from  the 
same  quantity  of  land.  An  allowance  of  about  one-eighth 
must,  however,  be  made  from  the  above  calculation  for  walks 
and  paths. 

The  table  may  also  sei-ve  to  show  the  gardener  how  to 
dispose  of  any  given  quantity  of  manux-e,  that  may  be  allotted 
for  an  acre  of  gi'ound.  If,  for  instance,  it  requires  three 
hundred  and  two  trees  to  plant  an  acre  when  placed  twelve 
feet  from  each  other,  it  will  require  as  many  heaps  of  manure 
to  cover  the  same  quantity  of  ground,  if  dropped  the  same 
distance  apart.  It  therefore  follows,  that  if  one  hundred 
loads  be  allowed  to  the  acre,  each  load  must  be  divided  into 
three  heaps.  If  seventy-five  loads  only  be  allowed,  every 
load  must  be  divided  into  four  heaps,  and  so  on  in  proportion 
to  the  quantity  allowed.  But  if  the  gardener  should  choose 
to  drop  his  heaps  five  paces  or  fifteen  feet  apart,  he  may 
make  such  distribution  of  his  loads  as  to  have  one  hundred 
and  ninety-three  heaps  on  the  acre  of  land ;  in  which  case, 
by  dividing  each  load  into  four  heaps,  he  will  require  only 
forty-eight  loads  to  cover  the  acre,  and  he  may  decrease  the 
quantity  still  more,  by  allowing  greater  distances  from  heap 
to  heap,  or  by  dividing  his  loads  into  smaller  proportions,  so 
as  to  accommodate  himself  to  whatever  quantity  of  manure 
he  may  allot  to  any  given  quantity  of  ground. 


As  it  may  not  be  generally  knowoi  that  some  kinds  of 
seed  are  apt  to  lose  their  vegetative  qualities  much  sooner 
than  others,  the  following  hints  are  subjoined  as  some  rule  for 
the  gardener's  government,  provided  the  seed  is  carefully 
preserved,  and  not  exposed  to  excess  of  heat,  air,  or  damp 
ness : 


GENERAL    REMARKS.  25 

Parsnip,  Rhubarb,  and  other  light,  scale-like  seeds,  cannot 
be  safely  ti'usted  after  they  are  a  year  old. 

Beans  and  Peas  of  different  species,  Capsicum,  Carrot, 
Cress,  Leek,  Nasturtium,  Okra,  Onion,  Salsify,  Scorzonera, 
and  small  Herb  seed  in  general,  may  be  kept  two  years. 

Artichoke,  Asparagus,  Egg-plant,  Endive,  Fetticus,  Let- 
tuce, Mustard,  Parsley,  Skirret,  and  Spinach  seed,  may  with 
care  be  preserved  three  years. 

Broccoli,  Cauliflower,  Cabbage,  Celery,  Kale,  Radish,  and 
Turnip  seed,  will  keep  four  yeai's,  if  properly  attended  to. 

Beet,  Cucumber,  Gourd,  Melon,  Pumpkin,  and  Squash, 
also,  Burnet,  Chervil,  and  Son-el  seed,  have  been  known  to 
grow  freely  when  five  and  even  seven  years  old ;  but  it  is  not 
prudent  to  venture  seed  in  the  garden,  of  the  soundness  of 
which  we  are  not  certain. 

In  order  to  put  such  on  their  guard  as  may  attempt  to  raise 
seed  either  for  their  own  use  or  for  the  mai'ket,  I  would 
observe  that  great  care  is  necessary,  as  it  is  an  indubitable 
fact,  that  if  seed  of  similar  species  be  raised  near  each  other, 
degeneracy  will  be  the  consequence  ;  it  is,  therefore,  difficult 
for  any  one  man  to  raise  all  sorts  of  seed,  good  and  true  to 
their  kind,  in  any  one  garden. 

If  roots  of  any  kind  become  defective,  they  are  unfit  for 
seed,  as  the  annexed  fact  will  show.  I  once  planted  for  seed 
some  beautiful  orange-coloured  roots  of  Carrots,  but  as  they 
had  been  previously  grown  with  some  of  a  lemon-colour, 
they  produced  seed  of  a  mixed  and  spurious  breed  ;  and  as 
this  is  not  a  solitary  instance  of  degeneracy  from  the  like 
cause,  I  have  come  to  the  conclusion,  that  as  in  the  animal 
frame,  so  it  is  in  the  vegetable  system — disorders  very  fre- 
quently lay  dormant  from  one  generation  to  another,  and  at 
length  break  out  with  all  their  vigour;  I  would  therefore 
advise  seed  gi'owers  not  to  attempt  to  "  bring  a  clean  thing 
out  of  an  unclean,"  but  if  they  find  a  mixture  of  varieties 
among  their  seed  roots,  to  reject  the  whole,  or  they  will  in- 
fallibly have  spurious  seed. 

3 


26 


GENERAL    REMARKS. 


TABLE  AND  EXPLICATION. 

*^*  In  order  to  aid  the  novice  in  gardening,  the  following 
brief  classification  of  such  species  and  varieties  as  comprise 
our  catalogue  of  vegetable  seed  is  submitted,  and  it  is  pre- 
sumed that  the  connecting  links,  and  explication  of  this  table, 
will  not  be  altogether  uninteresting  to  the  experienced  gar- 
dener and  seedsman. 


CATALOGUE, 

>1 

•a 

X 
"3 

'5  = 
o 

(i 

c 

ll 
1  = 
^1 

c     . 

5.  £ 

o 

Most       1 

essential    1 

Nutriment.  1 

3 

i 

0..  II 

..0. . 

.  .0    . 

.  .0.. 

..0.. 

..0. . 

.0. 

..0.. 

..0.. 

..0.. 

..0.. 

..0.. 

..0.. 

..0.. 

..0.. 

..0.. 

..0.. 

..0.  . 

..0.. 

..0.. 

..0.  . 

..0.. 

..0.. 

..0.  . 

..0.. 

..0.. 

.  .0 

..0.. 

..0.. 

..0.. 

..0.. 

.  .0. 

.  .0. . 

..0.. 

.  .0. . 

..0.. 

Ege  Plant 

.    0    . 

..0.. 

..0.. 

..0.. 

..0.. 

..0.. 

..0.. 

Leek 

.  .0. . 

..0.. 

..0.. 

..0.. 

..0.. 

.  .0. . 

0. . 

..0.  . 

..0   . 

.  .0.  . 

Okra 

..0.. 

..0.. 

..0.. 

..0.. 

.  .0.. 

..0.. 

.  .0. . 

..0.. 

0 

..0. 

..0. . 

.0    . 

.0.. 

.  .0.  . 

.0. . 

.  .0 

Radish 

..0.. 

..0.. 

Salsify 

..0.. 

..  .. 

..0.. 

0 

0 

.   0.. 

..0.. 

Tomatoe 

0 

..0.. 

..0.. 

-  a. . 

n 

n 

0    . 

• •'■» 

In  explication  of  the  table,  it  may  be  necessary  first  to 
premise,  that  in  the  classification,  as  regards  the  germinating 
powers  of  different  kinds  of  seed,  it  is  conceded  that  if  some 
of  those  denominated  medium  were  put  upon  an  equal  foot- 
ing with  some  of  the  class  denominated  quick-growing,  they 
would  vegetate  in  about  the  same  time.     For  instance,  Peas 


GENERAL    REMARKS.  27 

would  sprout  as  quick  as  Kidney  Beans,  with  the  same  tem- 
perature ;  but  Peas,  being  hardy,  are  generally  planted  a 
month  earlier  in  the  season.  If  Beans  were  planted  at  the 
same  time,  they  would  rot  for  want  of  genial  heat  necessary 
to  their  gemiination. 

Many  of  the  species  denominated  medium  and  tardy,  re- 
quire considerable  moisture  to  produce  vegetation ;  when  not 
attainable,  tardiness  of  growth,  and  sometimes  total  failure,  are 
the  consequence ;  judicious  gardeners,  however,  generally 
obviate  difficulties  of  this  nature,  by  sov^dng  such  seed  at  the 
most  favourable  seasons.  Those  who  delay  sowing  Carrot, 
Celery,  Leek,  Parsley,  Onion,  Parsnip,  Spinach,  &c.,  until 
dry  summer  weather,  render  themselves  liable  to  disappoint- 
ment and  loss  thereby.  * 

As  some  gardeners  are  apt  to  attribute  all  failures  of  seed 
to  its  defectiveness,  I  shall,  in  the  hope  of  convincing  such 
of  their  eiTor,  offer  a  few  obsen'ations  under  each  head  of 
the  table. 

The  first  and  second  classes,  denominated  hardy  and  half- 
hardy,  are  subject  to  lisk  in  unpropitious  seasons,  from  un- 
fitness of  the  soil  to  promote  vegetation,  rendered  so  by  cold 
rains  and  variable  weather.  If  sprouted  seed  sui'vive  a 
severe  chill,  it  is  the  more  susceptible  of  frost,  to  which  it  is 

*  As  the  matter  relative  to  the  first  seven  columns  was  in  type  previous 
to  the  introduction  of  the  last  two  columns,  I  would  here  offer  a  few  ob- 
servations illustrative  of  their  obj'ect.  People  in  general,  from  not  con- 
sidering that  the  products  of  our  gardens,  being  natives  of  the  various  cli- 
mates of  the  earth,  have  each  its  peculiar  aliment,  expect  to  raise  whatever 
they  may  wish  for  at  almost  any  season.  By  referring  to  the  classification 
in  the  eighth  and  ninth  columns,  they  will  be  at  once  convinced  of  their 
error,  as  it  will  appear  evident  that  such  vegetables  as  require  heat  will 
grow  best  in  summer,  while  those  whose  most  essential  nutriment  is 
moisture,  must  be  raised  either  in  spring  or  autumn.  It  may  be  necessary 
to  remind  the  gardener  that,  from  the  American  spring  being  short,  little 
can  be  done  before  the  approach  of  warm  weather ;  it  should  therefore  be 
our  object  to  improve  the  autumn  months  in  the  cultivation  of  such  vege- 
tables as  can  be  brought  to  maturity  before  the  setting  in  of  winter.  Having 
under  each  head  of  the  Calendar  recommended  the  most  appropriate  seasons 
for  the  different  articles,  it  is  unnecessary  to  dilate  faither  here,  except  to 
invoke  my  readers  to  adhere  strictly  thereto. 


28  GENERAL    REMARKS. 

frequently  subjected  early  in  the  season.  Some  species  of 
plants  that,  in  an  advanced  stage  of  growth,  will  stand  a  hard 
winter,  are  often  cut  oft'  by  very  slight  frost  while  germinating, 
especially  if  exposed  to  the  heat  of  the  sun  after  a  frosty 
night,  or  while  in  a  frozen  state.  Cabbage,  Carrot,  Celery, 
Turnip,  and  many  other  growing  plants,  which  survive  the 
ordinary  winters  of  England,  are  here  classed  as  half-hardy, 
for  the  reasons  above  stated. 

The  third  class,  or  most  tender  species,  frequently  perish 
from  excess  of  rain.  Lima  Beans,  for  instance,  have  often 
to  be  replanted  three  or  four  times  in  the  month  of  May, 
before  any  will  stand.  Melons,  Cucumbers,  Egg-plants, 
Tomato  plants,  &c.,  are  also  often  cut  off"  by  variableness  of 
the  weather ;  indeed,  it  is  unreasonable  to  expect  natives  of 
tropical  climates  to  thrive  or  even  live  in  a  climate  adverse 
to  that  in  which  nature  first  produced  them,  unless  protected 
or  nursed  in  unjiropitious  seasons,  as  recommended  under 
the  head  forcing  vegetables.  Those  who  plant  tender  things 
in  open  gardens  early  in  the  season,  must  reconcile  them- 
selves to  loss  in  the  event  of  unfavourable  weather,  instead 
of  throwing  blame  on  the  seedsman. 

The  fourth  class,  embracing  such  species  and  vaiieties  as, 
from  their  nature,  are  apt  to  vegetate  quickly,  are  very  liable 
to  be  devoured  by  insects  before  they  make  any  show  on  the 
surface.  Turnip  seed,  for  instance,  will  sprout  within  forty- 
eight  hours  after  being  sown  ;  and  under  favourable  circum- 
stances, most  of  the  species  of  this  class  will  come  up  within 
a  week ;  but  if  insects  attack  the  seed  beds  in  dry  weather, 
a  total  loss  of  crops  will  be  the  consequence.  Every  expe- 
rienced farmer  is  convinced  of  this  fact,  by  having  frequently 
to  sow  his  Turnip  ground  three  or  four  times  before  he  can 
get  any  to  stand. 

Sometimes  a  sudden  shower  of  rain  will  cause  j^lants  to 
grow  out  of  the  reach  of  insects,  but  every  good  gardener 
should  have  his  remedies  at  hand  to  apply  to  seed  beds  in 


GEIVERAL    REMARKS.  29 

general,  and  especially  to  those  in  which  plants  are  raised 
for  the  purpose  of  being  transplanted. 

Those  species  and  varieties  embraced  in  the  fftli  and  sixth 
columns,  often  take  from  two  to  three  or  four  weeks  to  vege- 
tate in  unfavourable  seasons.  Some  plants  are  retarded  by 
cold,  others  by  excess  of  diy  weather ;  and  at  such  times, 
seed  may  fail  to  vegetate  for  want  of  pressure.  In  the 
event  of  drought  after  neavy  rains,  seed  and  young  plants 
often  perish  through  incrustation  of  the  soil,  and  from  other 
untoward  cii'cumstances,  which  can  neither  be  controlled  or 
accounted  for,  even  by  the  most  assiduous  and  precise  gar- 
dener. It  must,  however,  be  conceded,  that  failures  often 
occur,  through  seed  being  deposited  too  deep  in  the  ground, 
or  left  too  near  the  surface ;  sometimes,  for  want  of  suffi- 
ciency of  seed  in  a  given  spot,  solitary  plants  will  perish, 
they  not  having  sufficient  strength  to  open  the  pores  of  the 
earth,  and  very  frequently  injudicious  management  in  ma- 
nuring and  preparing  the  soil  will  cause  defeat. 

I  have  been  induced  to  expatiate,  and  to  designate,  in  the 
seventh  range  of  the  preceding  table,  such  plants  as  are  gene- 
rally cultivated  first  in  seed  beds,  and  afterward  transplanted 
for  the  purpose  of  being  accommodated  with  space  to  mature 
in,  with  a  ^dew  to  answer  at  once  the  thousand  and  one 
questions  asked  by  inexperienced  cultivators,  at  my  counter. 

Some  persons,  from  ignorance  of  the  nature  and  object  of 
raising  plants  for  transplanting,  ask  for  pounds  of  seed,  when 
an  ounce  is  amply  sufficient  for  their  purj3ose.  For  example, 
an  ounce  of  Celery  seed  will  produce  ten  thousand  plants. 
An  ounce  of  Cabbage  seed  will  produce  from  three  to  four 
thousand,  sufficient,  when  transplanted,  to  cover  nearly  half 
an  acre  of  and,  which  land,  if  sown  with  Spinach,  for 
instance,  would  require  from  four  to  six  pounds  of  seed. 

To  prevent  any  altercation  on  this  subject,  I  would  observe, 
in  conclusion,  that  many  other  vegetables  would  admit  of 
being  transplanted  besides  those  designated  in  our  table ; 
but  as  there  is  considerable  risk  and  trouble  inseparable  from 


30  GENERAL    REMARKS, 

the  operation,  it  is  needless  to  apply  it,  unless  there  are  para- 
mount advantages  to  be  gained,  the  reverse  of  which  would 
be  the  case,  under  ordinary  circumstances,  with  the  gene- 
rality of  those  plants  not  thus  designated. 

Instead  of  answering  any  more  queries,  I  think  I  shall  for 
the  future  follow  the  example  of  the  truly  eccentric  Aber- 
nethy,  and  refer  all  enquirers  for  information  to  my  books, 
which  contain  an  answer  to  every  important  question  that 
has  been  put  to  me  on  the  subject  of  gardening  since  I 
became  an  author. 

T.  BRIDGEMAN. 


*^*  Previous  to  the  commencement  of  our  Catalogue,  it 
may  be  necessary  to  remind  the  reader,  that  the  directions 
which  follow  are  founded  on  the  results  of  practical  experi- 
ence in  the  vicinity  of  New- York  City,  where  the  soil  is 
generally  susceptible  of  gardening  operations  toward  the 
end  of  March.  These  directions  may,  however,  be  applied 
to  all  other  parts  of  the  United  States,  by  a  minute  observ- 
ance of  the  difference  in  temperature. 

In  the  extreme  northern  parts  of  the  State  of  New- York, 
as  well  as  in  all  other  places  similarly  situated,  the  directions 
for  the  beginning  of  April  will  apply  to  the  latter  end  of 
the  same  month,  with  very  few  exceptions. 

In  our  Southern  States,  the  directions  for  APRIL, 
which  may  be  considered  as  the  first  gardening  month  in  the 
Eastern,  Western,  and  Middle  States,  will  apply  to  Janu- 
ary, February,  or  to  whatever  season  gardening  operations 
may  commence  in  the  respective  States. 

In  the  varied  climates  of  each  particular  State,  if  the  same 
rule  of  application  be  pursued  in  accordance  with  the  Calen- 
dar, success  is  certain. 


CATALOGUE, 

&c.,    &c. 


ARTICHOKE. 

Artichaut.     Cynara. 

VARIETIES. 
Cynara  Scolymus,  or  French.  I  Cynara  Hortensis,  or  Globe, 

The  garden  Artichoke  is  a  native  of  the  South  of  Europe, 
and  much  cuhivated  for  the  London  and  Paris  markets.  It 
is  a  perennial  plant,  producing  from  the  root  annually  its 
large  squamose  heads,  in  full  growth,  from  June  or  July, 
until  October  or  November.  The  Globe  Artichoke,  which 
produces  large  globular  heads,  is  best  for  general  culture, 
the  heads  being  considerably  larger,  and  the  eatable  parts 
more  thick  and  plump. 

Both  sorts  maybe  raised  from  seed,*  or  young  suckers 
taken  from  old  plants  in  the  spnng.  A  plantation  of  Arti- 
chokes will  produce  good  heads  six  or  seven  years,  and 
sometimes  longer ;  but  it  must  be  observed,  that  if  a  supply 
of  this  delicious  vegetable  be  required  throughout  the  season, 
a  small  plantation  should  be  made  from  suckers  every  spring, 
for  a  successive  crop,  as  the  young  plants  will  continue  to 
produce  their  heads  in  perfection,  after  the  crops  of  the  old 
standing  ones  are  over. 

The  most  likely  way  to  obtain  a  supply  of  Artichokes 
from  seed,  is  to  sow  the  seed  in  the  latter  end  of  March,  or 
at  any  time  in  April,  in  a  bed  of  good  rich  earth,  or  it  may 
be  planted  in  drills  one  inch  deep,  and  about  twelve  inches 
apart.  The  gi'ound  should  be  Hght  and  moist,  not  such  as  is 
apt  to  become  bound  up  by  heat,  or  that,  in  consequence  of 


One  ounce  of  seed  will  produce  about  six  hundred  plants. 


32  ARTICHOKE. 

containing  too  large  a  proportion  of  sand,  is  liable  to  become 
violently  hot  in  summer,  for  this  is  extremely  injmious  to 
these  plants.  After  the  plants  are  up,  they  should  be  kept 
free  from  weeds,  and  the  earth  often  loosened  around  them. 
The  business  of  transplanting  may  be  done  in  cloudy  or 
wet  weather,  at  any  time  after  the  plants  are  from  nine  to 
twelve  inches  high.  Having  fixed  upon  a  proper  soil  and 
situation,  lay  on  it  a  good  quantity  of  rotten  dung,  and  trench 
the  gi'ound  one  good  spade  or  eighteen  inches  deep,  incor- 
porating the  manure  therewith;  this  being  done,  take  up 
the  plants,  and  after  shortening  their  tap  roots  a  little,  and 
dressino-  their  leaves,  plant  them  with  a  dibble,  in  rows  five 
feet  asunder,  and  two  feet  from  plant  to  plant,  leaving  part 
of  their  gi-een  tops  above  ground,  and  the  hearts  of  the  plants 
free  from  any  earth  over  them,  and  give  each  plant  a  little 
water  to  settle  the  roots. 

The  winter  dressing  of  Artichokes  is  an  important  opera- 
tion; on  it  depends  much  of  their  future  success.  This 
should  not  be  given  them  as  long  as  the  season  continues 
mild,  that  they  may  have  all  possible  advantage  of  growth, 
and  be  gradually  inured  to  the  increasing  cold  weather ;  but 
it  should  not  be  deferred  too  late,  lest  by  the  sudden  setting 
in  of  hard  frost,  to  which  we  are  subject  in  the  Northern 
States,  the  work  be  neglected,  and  the  plants  consequently 
exposed  to  devastation  and  loss. 

In  the  first  place,  cut  all  the  large  leaves  close  to  the 
ground,  leaving  the  small  ones  which  rise  from  the  hearts 
of  the  plants  ;  after  this,  line  and  mark  out  a  trench  in  the 
middle,  between  each  row,  from  fourteen  to  sixteen  inches 
wide,  presuming  that  the  rows  are  five  feet  apart,  as  directed. 
Then  dig  the  surface  of  the  beds  lightly  from  trench  to 
ti'ench,  burpng  the  weeds,  and  as  you  proceed,  gather  the 
earth  around  the  crowns  of  the  plants  to  the  height  of  about 
six  inches,  placing  it  in  gently  between  the  young  rising  leaves, 
without  burying  them  entirely  under  it ;  this  done,  dig  the 
txenches  one  spade  deep,  and  distiibute  the  earth  equally 


ARTICHOKE.  33 

between  and  on  each  side  of  the  plants,  so  as  to  level  the 
rido'es,  givmg  them,  at  the  same  time,  a  neat  rounding  form; 
finish  by  casting  up  with  a  shovel  the  loose  earth  out  of  the 
bottom  of  the  trenches  evenly  over  the  ridges,  in  order  that 
the  water  occasioned  by  heavy  rains,  &c.,  may  immediately 
run  oft';  on  which  account  the  trenches  ought  to  have  a  gen- 
tle declivity,  as  the  lodgment  of  water  about  the  roots  in 
winter  is  the  greatest  evil  and  danger  to  which  they  are  expos- 
ed, even  greater  than  the  most  seveie  frosts  to  which  we  are 
subject. 

The  beds  are  to  remain  so,  until  there  is  an  appearance 
of  hard  frost,  when  they  should  be  covered  with  light  dung, 
litter,  leaves  of  ti'ees,  or  the  like,  the  better  to  presence  the 
cro\\nis  and  roots  from  its  rigour.  In  this  manner,  the  roots 
will  remain  in  perfect  safety  all  the  winter.  As  soon  as  the 
very  severe  frosts  are  over,  the  beds  must  be  uncovered,  and 
when  you  perceive  the  young  shoots  begin  to  appear  above 
ground,  or  rather  when  they  are  one  or  two  inches  up,  then, 
and  not  till  then,  proceed  to  level  down  the  beds,  thro'wing 
the  earth  into  the  alleys  or  trenches,  and  round  them  in  a 
neat  manner  ;  then  dig  in  the  short  manure,  and  loosen  all 
the  earth  around  the  plants.  At  the  same  time,  examine  the 
number  of  shoots  arising  on  each  stool,  and  select  three  of 
the  strongest  and  healthiest  looking  on  every  stool,  which  are 
to  remain ;  all  above  that  number  are  to  be  slipped  off"  close 
to  the  roots  with  the  hand,  unless  you  want  some  to  make 
new  plantations  with,  in  which  case  an  extra  number  for  that 
purpose  are  to  remain  on  the  jiarent  plants,  until  they  are 
about  eight  or  ten  inches  high  from  their  roots,  or  junction 
with  the  old  plants,  when  they  are  to  be  slipjied  off,  and 
planted  in  a  bed  prepared  in  the  same  manner  as  directed 
for  the  young  plants,  taking  care,  at  the  same  time,  to  close 
the  earth  about  the  crowns  of  the  roots,  and  draw  it  up  a 
little  to  the  remaining  suckers. 

Obsen'e,  the  spiing  di'essing  is  to  be  given  when  the  plants 
are  in  the  above-described  state,  whether  that  happens  in 


34  ASPARAGUS. 

February,  March,  or  April,  occasioned  by  the  difference  of 
climate,  in  the  respective  States,  or  by  the  earliness  or  late- 
ness of  the  spring. 

The  gardeners  near  London  generally  take  off  the  side 
suckers,  or  small  Artichokes,  when  they  are  about  the  size 
of  a  hen's  egg.  These  meet  with  a  ready  sale  in  the  mar- 
kets, and  the  principal  heads  that  are  left  are  always  larger 
and  more  handsome.  The  maturity  of  a  full-grown  Arti- 
choke is  apparent  by  the  opening  of  the  scales ;  and  it  should 
always  be  cut  off  before  the  flower  appears  in  the  centre ; 
the  stem  should  be  cut  close  to  the  ground  at  the  same 
time. 

Artichokes  are  esteemed  a  luxury  by  epicures.  To  have 
tliem  in  perfection,  they  should  be  thrown  into  cold  water 
as  soon  as  gathered,  and  after  having  been  soaked  and  well 
washed,  put  into  the  boiler  when  the  water  is  hot,  wdth 
a  little  salt,  and  kept  boiling  until  tender,  which  generally 
requires,  for  full-grown  Artichokes,  from  an  hour  and  a  half 
to  two  hours.  When  taken  up,  drain  and  trim  them ;  then 
serve  them  up  with  melted  butter,  pepper,  salt,  and  such 
other  condiment  as  may  best  suit  the  palate. 


ASPARAGUS. 

AsPERGE.      Jlsparagus  officinalis. 

VARIETIES. 

Gravesend.  I  Large  Battersea. 

Large  White  Reading.  [  Large  Green,  or  Giant. 

This  plant  is  a  native  of  cold  climates,  and  is  found  grow- 
ing wild  in  Russia  and  Poland,  where  it  is  eaten  by  the 
cattle  the  same  as  grass.  It  will  endure  the  severity  of  our 
winters,  and  produce  its  buds,  when  the  weather  gets  mild ; 
but  as  garden  products  are  generally  scarce   after  a  hard 


ASPARAGUS.  35 

winter,  the  gardener  who  studies  his  interest  will  make  the 
most  of  the  spring  season,  and  raise  all  he  can  before  the 
market  becomes  glutted ;  to  this  end,  he  is  recommended  to 
prepare  for  forcing  this  vegetable,  as  soon  as  the  coldest  of 
the  winter  is  past.     (See  article  on  Forcing  Vegetables.) 

Asparagus  may  be  raised  by  sowing  the  seed  in  the  fall 
as  soon  as  ripe,  or  in  March  and  the  early  part  of  Apiil. 
One  ounce  of  seed  will  produce  about  a  thousand  plants.  It 
requires  some  of  the  best  ground  in  the  garden.  The  seed 
may  be  sown  in  drills,  ten  or  twelve  inches  asunder,  and 
covered  about  an  inch  with  light  earth.  Wlien  the  plants 
are  up,  they  will  need  a  careful  hoeing,  and  if  well  culti- 
vated, and  kept  free  from  weeds,  they  will  be  large  enough 
to  ti'ansplant  when  they  are  a  year  old.  Some  keep  them  in 
the  nursery  bed  until  they  are  two  years  old. 

A  plantation  of  Asparagus,  if  the  beds  are  properly  dressed 
every  year,  will  produce  good  buds  for  twenty  years  or  more. 

New  plantations  of  Asparagus  may  be  made  in  autumn, 
or  before  the  buds  get  far  advanced  in  spring,  say  in  Febru- 
ary, March,  or  April,  according  to  situation  and  circum- 
stances. The  ground  for  the  bed  must  not  be  wet,  nor  too 
strong  or  stubborn,  but  such  as  is  moderately  light  and  plia- 
ble, so  that  it  wll  readily  fall  to  pieces  in  digging  or  raking, 
and  in  a  situation  that  enjoys  the  full  rays  of  the  sun.  It 
should  have  a  large  supply  of  well  rotted  dung,  three  or  four 
inches  thick,  and  then  be  regularly  trenched  two  spades 
deep,  and  the  dung  buried  equally  in  each  trench  twelve  or 
fifteen  inches  below  the  surface.  AVhen  this  trenching  is 
done,  lay  two  or  three  inches  of  thoroughly  rotted  manure 
over  the  whole  surface,  and  dig  the  ground  over  again  eight 
or  ten  inches  deep,  mixing  this  top  dressing,  and  incoi-po- 
rating  it  well  with  the  earth. 

In  family  gardens,  it  is  customary  to  divide  the  ground 
thus  prepared  into  beds,  allo^ving  four  feet  for  every  four 
rows  of  plants,  with  alleys  two  feet  and  a  half  vvdde  between 
each  bed.     Strain  your  line  along  the  bed  six  inches  from 


36  ASPARAGITS. 

the  edge ;  then,  with  a  spade,  cut  out  a  small  trench  or  drill 
close  to  the  line,  about  six  inches  deep,  making  that  side 
next  the  line  nearly  upright ;  when  one  trench  is  opened, 
plant  that  before  you  open  another,  placing  the  plants  upright 
ten  or  twelve  inches  distant  in  the  row,  and  let  every  row 
be  twelve  inches  apart. 

The  plants  must  not  be  2">laced  flat  in  the  bottom  of  the 
trench,  but  nearly  upright  against  the  back  of  it,  and  so  that 
the  crown  of  the  plants  may  also  stand  upright,  and  two  or 
three  inches  below  the  surface  of  the  ground,  spreading  their 
roots  somewhat  regularly  against  the  back  of  the  ti'ench,  and 
at  the  same  time  drawing  a  little  earth  up  against  them  with 
the  hand  as  you  place  them,  just  to  fix  the  plants  in  their  due 
position  until  the  row  is  planted ;  when  one  row  is  thus 
placed,  with  a  rake  or  hoe  draw  the  earth  into  the  trench 
over  the  plants,  and  then  proceed  to  open  another  drill  or 
trench,  as  before  directed ;  and  fill  and  cover  it  in  the  same 
manner,  and  so  on  till  the  whole  is  planted ;  then  let  the  sur- 
face of  the  beds  be  raked  smooth  and  clear  from  stones,  &c. 

Some  gardeners,  with  a  view  to  have  extra  large  heads, 
place  their  plants  sixteen  inches  apart  in  the  rows,  instead  of 
twelve ;  and  by  planting  them  in  the  quincunx  manner,  that 
is,  by  commencing  the  second  row  eight  inches  from  the  end 
of  tlie  first,  and  the  fourth  even  with  the  second,  the  plants 
will  form  rhomboidal  squares,  instead  of  reclangular  ones, 
and  every  plant  will  thus  have  room  to  expand  its  roots  and 
leaves  luxuriantly.* 


*  The  above  directions  are  intended  for  famiJy  gardens.  Those  who 
may  wish  to  raise  Asparagus  in  large  quantities  for  market,  should  prepare 
the  ground  with  a  plough,  and  plant  two  rows  in  each  bed,  which  may  be 
carried  to  any  length  required.  If  several  beds  are  wanted,  they  may  be 
planted  in  single  rows  four  or  five  feet  apart,  in  order  that  the  plough  may 
be  worked  freely  between  them.  Frequent  ploughing  will  cause  the  roots 
to  spread,  so  as  to  widen  the  beds,  and  the  winter  dressing  may  be  per- 
formed in  a  great  measure  with  the  plough.  After  the  Asparagus  is  cut, 
the  ground  between  the  beds  may  be  ploughed,  and  planted  with  Cabbage, 
Potatoes,  or  any  other  vegetable  usually  cultivated  in  rows. 


ASPARAGUS.  37 

WINTER  DRESSING  OF   ASPARAGUS   BEDS. 

About  the  beginning  of  November,  if  the  stalks  of  Aspar- 
agus turn  yellow,  which  is  a  sign  of  their  having  finished 
their  growth  for  the  season,  cut  them  clown  close  to  the 
earth,  carry  them  off  the  gi'ound,  and  clear  the  beds  care- 
fully from  weeds. 

Asparagus  beds  must  have  an  annual  dressing  of  good 
manure ;  let  it  be  laid  equally  over  the  beds,  two  or  three 
inches  thick,  after  which,  with  a  fork  made  for  the  puipose, 
(which  should  have  three  flat  tines,)  dig  in  the  dung  quite 
down  to  the  crowns  of  the  plants,  by  which  means  the  roots 
will  be  greatly  benefited  ;  as  the  winter  rains  will  wash  the 
manure  down  among  them.  It  is  the  practice  with  some 
gardeners  to  dig  the  alleys  at  every  autumn  dressing,  and 
cover  the  beds  with  the  soil  taken  out ;  this  may  be  done  for 
the  first  two  years  after  the  beds  are  made,  but  not  afterward ; 
as,  when  the  plants  are  in  full  growth,  their  roots  and  crowns 
extend  into  the  alleys,  and  digging  them  up  ft-equently  de- 
stroys plants,  or  renders  them  too  weak  to  produce  buds  in 
perfection.  The  beds  will  be  greatly  benefited  if  covered 
to  the  depth  of  several  inches  with  leaves,  sea-weed,  or  long 
litter  from  the  livery  stables. 

The  seedling  Asparagus  should  also  have  a  slight  dressing, 
that  is,  clear  the  bed  from  weeds,  and  then  spread  light  dung 
over  it,  to  the  depth  of  one  or  two  inches,  to  defend  the 
croviTi  of  the  plants  from  frost. 

SPRING  DRESSING  OF  THE  BEDS. 
This  work  should  be  done  from  about  the  latter  end  of 
March  to  the  middle  of  April,  or  just  before  the  buds  begin 
to  rise.  After  clearing  away  all  long  litter,  or  whatever  may 
encumber  the  ground,  spread  the  short  dung  over  the  whole 
surface,  and  dig  it  in  :  if  the  alleys  be  dug  at  the  same  time, 
it  will  be  veiy  beneficial  to  the  plants.  Care  must  be  taken 
at  this  season  not  to  wound  the  crowns  with  the  tines  of  the 
fork,  but  forking  the  beds  should  not  be  neglected,  a3  admit- 

4 


38  ASPARAGUS. 


ting  the  sun  and  rain  into  the  ground,  induces  the  plants  to 
throw  up  buds  of  superior  size  ;  to  promote  such  a  desirable 
object,  the  ground  should  be  kept  clear  of  weeds  at  all  sea- 
sons, as  these  greatly  impoverish  the  soil,  and  frequently 
smother  the  plants. 


The  gardeners  of  England  raise  Asparagus  in  great  per- 
fection, and  sometimes  have  buds  weighing  from  three  to 
five  ounces  each.  Loudon  says,  in  his  Encyclopaedia  of 
Gardening,  that  one  grower  alone  has  eighty  acres  entirely 
under  this  crop  for  the  London  market. 

Asparagus  plants  will  not  produce  buds  large  enough  to 
cut  for  general  use,  in  less  than  three  years  from  the  time  of 
planting,  but  in  the  fomtli  year,  when  the  shoots  are  three 
or  four  inches  high,  they  will  bear  extensive  cutting,  which 
should,  however,  be  discontinued  when  no  large  buds  are 
throvra  up.  The  best  way  of  cutting  is  to  slip  the  knife 
down  perpendicularly  close  to  each  shoot,  and  cut  it  off  slan- 
tingly, about  three  or  four  inches  beneatli  the  ground,  taking 
care  not  to  wound  any  young  buds  proceeding  from  the 
same  root,  for  there  are  always  several  shoots  advancing  in 
different  stages  of  growth. 

Asparagus  is  considered  a  wholesome  vegetable,  and 
should  not  be  kept  long  after  it  is  gathered ;  after  being  well 
washed,  it  may  be  tied  in  bundles  of  about  a  dozen  buds 
each,  and  boiled  in  water  slightly  seasoned  wdth  salt,  until 
tender,  which  will  be  in  about  twenty  minutes ;  take  it  up 
before  it  loses  its  true  colour  and  flavour,  and  serve  it  up  on 
toasted  bread,  vvdth  melted  butter,  &c. 


BEANS. 


39 


BEANS.    (English  Dwarfs.) 
Feve  de  marais.     Vicia  faba. 


VARIETIES. 


Early  Mazagan. 
Early   Lisbon. 
Early  Long  Pod. 
Large  Windsor. 
Large  Toker. 
Broad  Spanish. 


Sandwich  Bean. 
Green  Genoa. 
Dwarf  Cluster. 
White  Blossom. 
Green  Nonpareil. 
Sword  Long  Pod. 


The  principal  cause  of  these  garden  Beans  not  succeed- 
ing well  in  this  country,  is  the  summer  heat  overtaking  them 
before  they  are  podded,  which  causes  the  blossom  to  drop 
off  prematurely ;  to  obviate  this  difficulty,  they  should  be 
planted  as  early  in  the  year  as  possible ;  as  recommended 
ill  the  article,  "  Forwarding  Broad  Beans."  They  are 
generally  planted  in  England,  fi'om  October  to  April,  for 
early  crops,  and  from  that  time  to  July,  for  late  crops.  It 
sometimes  happens  that  autunm  plantings  are  injured  by  the 
coldness  of  their  winters,  but  an  average  crop  is  generally 
obtained. 

In  the  Eastern,  Western,  and  Middle  States,  if  a  few  of 
the  best  varieties  of  these  Beans  be  planted  in  the  open 
ground,  as  soon  in  the  season  as  it  can  be  brought  into  good 
condition,  they  will  come  into  bearing  in  regular  succession, 
according  to  their  different  degrees  of  earliness,  and  plant- 
ings may  be  repeated  eveiy  ten  days  of  the  first  spring 
month  ;  but  it  is  only  from  those  that  are  planted  early  that 
any  tolerable  produce  can  be  expected,  as  they  become  defi- 
cient in  quality,  as  well  as  in  quantity,  on  the  ajiproach  of 
extreme  warm  weather. 

In  the  Southern  States  they  may  be  planted  in  succession 
throug-hout  the  autumn  and  winter  months,  which  will  cause 
them  to  bear  early  in  the  ensuing  season. 

The  best  mode  of  planting  is  in  drills,  drawn  two  inches 
deep,  in  which  the  seed  Beans  may  be  dropped  two  or  three 


40  BEANS. 

inches  apart,  according  to  their  size,  and  the  drills  may  be 
from  two  to  three  feet  asunder.  A  strong  clayey  soil  is  the 
most  suitable ;  but  they  often  do  well  in  moderately  light 
ground,  provided  it  be  well  trodden,  or  rolled,  after  the 
Beans  are  planted. 

As  soon  as  the  Beans  are  three  or  four  inches  high,  they 
will  need  a  careful  hoeing ;  and  if  some  earth  be  drawn  up 
to  their  stems,  three  or  four  times  in  the  course  of  their 
growth,  it  will  greatly  refresh  and  strengthen  them. 

Wlien  they  airive  at  full  bloom,  and  the  lower  pods  begin 
to  set,  the  tops  may  be  broken  off.  If  this  be  done  at  the 
proper  time,  it  will  promote  the  swelling  of  the  pods,  as 
well  as  their  early  maturity  ;  for  having  no  advancing  tops 
to  nourish,  the  whole  effort  of  the  root  will  go  to  the  support 
of  the  fruit. 

Broad  Beans  are  particularly  subject  to  green  bugs.  To- 
bacco water,  or  salt  water,  will  sometimes  destroy  them , 
but  the  most  certain  way  is  to  watch  their  first  appearance, 
and  pick  off  that  part  on  which  they  first  settle,  and  bum  it; 
or  if  such  plants  be  cut  down  close  to  the  ground,  they  will 
produce  fresh  shoots,  which  may  bear  a  good  crop. 

One  quart  of -seed  Beans  will  be  required  for  every  sixty 
feet  of  row,  allowing  the  smallest  sorts  to  be  planted  about 
two  inches  apart,  and  the  largest  four  inches. 

The  beans  should  be  gathered  young,  and  shelled  while 
fresh.  After  having  been  washed,  let  them  be  boiled  in 
plenty  of  water  \\ath  a  little  salt  and  a  bunch  of  green  parsley. 
They  take  from  thirty  to  forty  minutes  to  boil,  according  to 
age,  and  may  be  seiTed  up  with  melted  butter,  gravy,  &c. ; 
but  they  are  very  good  when  cooked  and  eaten  with  fat  pork, 
or  good  old-fashioned  Hampshire  bacon. 


41 


BEANS.    (Kidney  Dwarfs.) 
Haricot.     Phaseolus  vulgaris,  etc. 

VARIETIES. 


Early  Denmark. 

Early  Muhawk. 

Early  Valentine. 

Early  Yellow  Six  Weeks. 

Early  I»un-coIoured,  or  Quaker. 

Early  China  Dwarf. 

Early  Rachel,  or  Quail's  Head. 

Early  Rob  Hoy. 


Ecirly  Black  Dwarf. 

Large  White  Kidney  Dwarf. 

White  Cranberry  Dwarf. 

Red  Cranberry  Dwarf. 

Yellow  Cranberry  Dwarf. 

Refugee,  or  Thousand  to  One. 

Marble  Swiss  Bean. 

Royal  Dwarf  Kidney,  or  French. 


These  varieties  of  Beans,  being  natives  of  India,  South 
America,  and  otlier  warm  climates,  mil  not  endure  the  least 
cold,  and  it  is  therefore  always  hazardous  to  plant  them  in 
the  open  ground  until  settled  warm  weather.  The  earliest 
varieties,  if  planted  toward  the  end  of  April  or  the  first  week 
in  May,  will  come  to  perfection  in  from  six  to  eight  weeks 
after  planting.  Some  of  the  later  varieties  ^dll  keep  longer 
in  bearing,  and  are  esteemed  by  some  on  that  account. 
These,  with  some  of  the  early  varieties,  may  be  planted  in 
the  months  of  May  and  June ;  and  if  a  regular  succession 
of  young  beans  be  required  throughout  the  summer,  some 
of  the  varieties  should  be  planted  every  two  weeks,  from  the 
last  week  in  April  until  the  beginning  of  August.* 

These  Beans  require  a  light,  rich  soil,  in  which  they  should 
be  planted  in  hills,  three  or  four  in  a  hill,  or  drills  about  two 
inches  deep,  and  the  Beans  two  or  three  inches  from  each 
other ;  the  drills  may  be  from  two  to  three  feet  apart.  The 
Refugees  do  best  when  planted  in  hills.  As  the  Beans  pro- 
gress in  growth,  let  them  be  carefully  hoed,  drawing  some 

*  Some  gardeners,  anxious  to  have  Beans  early,  are  apt  to  begin  planting 
too  soon  in  the  season,  and  very  frequently  lose  their  first  crops.  It  should 
be  recollected,  that  these  Beans  are  next  to  Cucumbers  and  Melons  as  re- 
gards tenderness,  and  will  always  grow  quicker  and  yield  better,  if  the 
planting  be  delayed  until  settled  warm  weather.  The  Early  Mohawk  is 
the  hardiest,  and  may  sometimes  succeed  well,  if  planted  about  the  middle 
of  April,  but  it  is  much  safer  to  delay  the  planting  of  any  quantity  until 
towards  ihe  end  of  the  month. 

4* 


42  BEANS. 

earth  up  to  their  stems  at  the  same  time,  which  will  causo 
them  soon  to  be  fit  for  the  table. 

One  quart  of  Kidney  Beans  will  plant  from  three  hundred 
and  fifty  to  four  hundred  hills,  according  to  the  size  of  the 
Beans,  allowing  four  Beans  to  each  hill,  or  from  two  hundi'ed 
and  thirty  to  two  hundred  and  sixty  feet  of  row,  allowing 
six  Beans  to  every  foot. 

These  Beans  should  not  be  suffei'ed  to  get  old  and  tough 
before  they  are  gathered;  be  careful  in  trimming  them,  to 
strip  off  the  strings.  To  effect  this  desirable  object,  break 
them  across ;  and,  in  order  to  preserve  their  greenness,  soak 
them  in  salted  water  for  a  short  time,  then  put  them  into  the 
water  while  boiling,  which  should  be  previously  seasoned 
with  salt.  When  they  are  tender,  which  will  be  in  from  fif- 
teen to  twenty  minutes,  take  them  up  and  drain  them  through 
a  collander,  in  order  to  render  them  capable  of  absorbing  a 
due  share  of  gi'avy,  melted  butter,  &:c. 


BEANS.     (Pole  or  Running.) 
Haricots  a  rames. 

Phaseohts    Limensis. 

VARIETIES. 

Large  White  Lima.  1  Speckled  Lima. 

Phaseolus  Multiflorus. 

varieties. 
Scarlet  Runners. 
White  Dutch  Runners. 
Dutch  Case  Knife,  or  Princess. 


London  Horticultural. 
French  Bicolour. 
Red  Cranberry. 
White  Cranberry. 


Asparagus,  or  Yard  Long. 

These  species  and  varieties  of  Beans  may  be  planted 
early  in  the  month  of  May  and  in  June,  either  in  hills  three 
feet  distant  from  each  other,  or  in  drills  about  two  inches 
deep,  and  the  Beans  two  or  three  inches  apart  in  the  drillfl. 


BEANS,  43 

The  poles  should  be  eight  or  ten  feet  long,  and  may  be  fixed 
in  the  ground  before  the  Beans  are  planted. 

The  varieties  of  Lima  Beans  should  not  be  planted  in  the 
open  groumd  until  the  second  week  in  May,  unless  the  sea- 
son be  very  favourable,  and  the  ground  warm.  As  these 
Beans  are  apt  to  get  rotten  by  cold  and  damp  weather,  let 
six  or  eight  be  planted  half  an  inch  deep  round  each  pole, 
and  afterward  thinned,  leaving  three  or  four  good  plants  in 
a  hill,  which  hills  should  be  full  four  feet  distant  from  each 
other  every  way. 

The  soil  for  Running  Beans  should  be  the  same  as  for 
Dwarfs,  except  the  Lima,  which  require  richer  ground  than 
any  of  the  other  sorts.  A  shovelful  of  rich  light  compost, 
mixed  with  the  earth  in  each  hill,  would  be  beneficial. 

If  any  varieties  are  wanted  before  the  ordinary  seasons, 
they  may  be  planted  in  flower-pots,  in  April,  and  placed  in 
&  greenhouse  or  garden  frame,  and  being  transplanted  in 
May,  with  the  balls  of  eaith  entire,  will  come  into  bearing  ten 
or  fourteen  days  earlier  than  those  which,  in  the  first  instance, 
are  planted  in  the  open  gi'ound. 

It  will  require  about  a  quart  of  Lima  Beans  to  plant  one 
hundred  hills.  A  quart  of  the  smallest-sized  Pole  Beans  will 
plant  three  hundred  hills  and  upward,  or  about  two  hundred 
and  fifty  feet  of  row,  and  the  largest  runners  will  go  about 
as  far  as  the  Lima  Beans. 

Lima  Beans  should  be  shelled  while  fresh,  and  boiled  in 
plenty  of  water  until  tender,  which  generally  takes  from  fif- 
teen to  twenty  minutes.  The  mode  of  cooking  and  prepar- 
ing the  other  sorts,  is  the  same  as  for  Kidney  Dwarfs, 


Early  Scarcity. 
Mangel  Wurtzel. 
French  Sugar,  or  Silesia. 
Sir  John  Sinclair's. 


44  BEET. 

BEET. 
Betterave.     Beta  vulgaris. 

VARIETIES. 

Early  Blood  Turnip-rooted. 
Early  Long  Blood. 
Extra  Dark  Blood. 
Yellow  Turnip-rooted. 

Beets,  in  their  several  varieties,  are  biennial,  and  the  best 
blood-coloured,  are  much  cultivated  for  the  sake  of  their 
roots,  which  are  excellent  when  cooked,  and  very  suitable 
for  pickling  after  being  boiled  tender ;  they  also,  when  sliced, 
make  a  beautiful  garnish  for  the  dish,  and  the  young  plants 
are  an  excellent  substitute  for  Spinach. 

The  Mangel  Wurtzel  and  Sugar  Beets  are  cultivated  for 
cattle.  Domestic  animals  eat  the  leaves  and  roots  with  great 
avidity.  They  are  excellent  food  for  swine,  and  also  for 
milch  cows ;  and  possess  the  quality  of  making  them  give  a 
large  quantity  of  the  best-flavoured  milk.  The  roots  are 
equally  fit  for  oxen  and  horses,  after  being  cut  up  into  small 
pieces  and  mixed  with  cut  straw,  hay,  or  other  dry  feed.* 

A  small  bed  of  the  earliest  Turnip-rooted,  and  other  es- 
teemed kinds  of  Beets,  may  be  planted  in  good  rich  early 
ground  the  first  week  in  April,  which,  being  well  attended 
to,  will  produce  good  roots  in  June. 

Draw  drills  a  foot  apart,  and  from  one  to  two  inches  deep  ; 
drop  the  seed  along  the  drills  one  or  two  inches  from  each 

*  An  acre  of  good,  rich,  loamy  soil  has  been  known  to  yield  two  thou- 
sand bushels  of  beet-roots,  some  of  which  weighed  from  fifteen  to  twenty 
pounds  each.  To  produce  such  enormously  large  roots,  they  should  be 
cultivated  in  drills  from  two  to  three  feet  apart,  and  the  plants  thinned  to 
ten  or  twelve  ijiches  in  the  rows.  It  is  generally  conceded,  however,  that 
moderate-sized  roots  contain  more  saccharine  matter,  in  proportion  to  their 
bulk,  than  extra  large  roots,  and  that  twenty  tons,  or  about  seven  hundred 
bushels,  are  a  very  profitable  crop  for  an  acre  of  land,  and  would  be  amply 
sufficient  to  feed  ten  cows  for  three  or  four  months  of  the  year.  A  gen- 
tleman in  Connecticut  computes  the  products  of  one-fourth  of  an  acre  of 
good  land,  at  eight  tons,  which,  he  says,  will  support  a  cow  the  whole 
year.  He  allows  five  tons  to  feed  on  for  nine  months,  and  the  other  three 
tons  to  be  sold,  and  the  proceeds  applied  to  the  purchase  of  other  food,  to 
be  given  from  the  time  the  roots  fail  in  the  spring,  until  new  roots  are 
produced. 


BEET.  45 

Other,  and  cover  them  with  earth.  When  the  plants  are  up 
strong,  thin  them  to  the  distance  of  six  or  eight  inches  from 
each  other  in  the  rows.  The  ground  should  be  afterward 
hoed  deep  round  the  plants,  and  kept  free  from  weeds. 

If  the  planting  of  Beet  seed,  for  general  crops,  be  delayed 
until  May  or  June,  the  roots  will  be  much  larger  and  bettor 
than  those  from  earlier  planting,  which,  from  being  frequently 
stunted  in  growth  by  the  various  changes  of  weather,  become 
tough,  stringy,  and  of  unhandsome  shape.  In  case  of  the 
failure  of  crops,  or  of  unfavourable  weather  in  June,  Beet 
seed  planted  the  first  week  in  July  will  sometimes  produce 
large,  handsome  roots,  which  may  be  preserved  foi-  winter  use. 

The  most  suitable  ground  for  Beets  is  that  which  has  been 
well  manured  for  previous  crops,  and  requires  no  fresh  mar 
nure,  provided  it  be  well  pulverized. 

It  is  always  best  to  thin  Beets  while  young.  If  the  tops 
are  used  as  a  vegetable,  they  should  not  be  left  too  long  for 
this  purpose,  or  they  will  greatly  injure  the  roots  of  those 
that  are  to  stand.  Beds  that  are  to  stand  through  the  sum- 
mer, should  be  kept  clean  by  repeated  hoeings  ;  and  the  roots 
intended  for  winter  use  should  be  taken  up  in  October,  or 
early  in  November,  and  stowed  away,  as  directed  in  the 
calendar  for  those  months. 

Allowing  Beet  seed  to  be  planted  on  the  gardening  plan, 
it  will  require  at  the  rate  of  ten  pounds  for  an  acre  of  land, 
which  is  two  pounds  and  a  half  for  a  rood,  and  one  ounce 
for  every  perch,  pole,  or  rod.  If  cultivated  on  the  field  sys- 
tem, that  is,  by  planting  them  a  sufficient  distance  apart  to 
admit  of  ploughing  between  each  row,  one  half  the  quantity 
of  seed  will  be  sufficient,  or  even  less,  if  sown  regular.  If 
it  be  an  object  with  the  cultivator  to  save  his  seed,  he  may 
drop  some  in  each  spot  where  a  plant  is  required,  and  thin 
them  as  before  directed. 

It  may  be  necessary  to  add,  that  one  pound  of  Beet  seed 
will  measure  about  two  quarts,  and  as  each  capsule  contains 
four  or  five  small  seed,  thinning  out  the  surplus  plants  is  in- 
dispensable to  the  production  of  good  roots. 


46  BORECOLE,    OR  KALE. 

BORECOLE,  OR  KALE. 
Chou  Frise  Vert.     Brassica  oleracea,  etc. 


VARIETIES. 


Green  Curled,  or  Scotch. 
Dwurf  Brown,  or  German. 
Purple  Fringed. 


Jerusalem,  or  Buda. 
Cesarean  Kale. 
Thousand-headed  Cabbage. 


There  are  several  sub-varieties  of  this  genus  of  plants 
besides  those  above  specified,  most  of  which  have  large  open 
heads,  with  curled  \\Tinkled  leaves.  The  Dwarf  Curled,  or 
Finely  Fringed  sorts,  are  much  cultivated  in  Europe  for  the 
table ;  and  the  coarse  and  tall-growing  are  considered  pro- 
fitable for  cattle.  The  Thousand-headed  Cabbage,  and  Ce- 
sarean Kale,  grow  from  three  to  five  feet  high,  and  branch 
out  from  the  stem,  yielding  an  abundant  supply  of  leaves 
and  sprouts  in  the  winter  and  spring. 

For  the  garden,  these  several  varieties  may  be  treated  in 
every  respect  as  Winter  Cabbage.  The  seed  may  be  sown 
from  about  the  middle  of  May  to  the  first  week  in  June,  and 
the  plants  set  out  in  the  month  of  July,  in  good  rich  ground. 
They  are  never  so  delicious  as  when  rendered  tender  by 
smart  frosts ;  they  are  valuable  plants  to  cultivate,  particu- 
larly in  the  more  Southerly  States,  as  they  will  there  be  in 
the  greatest  perfection  during  the  winter  months ;  they  will 
also,  if  planted  in  a  gravelly  soil,  and  in  a  sheltered  warm 
situation,  bear  the  winter  of  the  Western  States ;  and  may 
be  kept  in  great  perfection  in  the  EasteiTi  States,  if  taken 
up  before  the  frost  sets  in  with  much  severity,  and  placed  in 
trenches,  up  to  their  lower  leaves,  and  then  covered  with 
straw  or  other  light  covering :  the  heads  may  be  cut  off 
as  they  are  required  for  use ;  and  in  the  spring,  the  stems 
being  raised  up,  will  produce  an  abundance  of  delicious 
greens. 

One  ounce  of  good  Boiecole  seed  will  produce  about  four 
thousand  plants,  and  may  be  sown  in  a  border  four  feet  by 
ten,  or  thereabout. 


BRUSSELS    SPROUTS.  47 

BRUSSELS  SPROUTS. 
Chou  de  Bruxelles  agets.     Brassica  oleracea. 

This  plant  frequently  grows  from  three  to  five  feet  high, 
and  produces  from  the  stem  small  heads  resembling  cabbages 
in  miniature,  each  being  from  one  to  two  inches  in  diameter. 
The  top  of  the  plant  resembles  the  Savoy,  when  planted  late. 
The  sprouts  are  used  as  winter  greens,  and  they  become 
very  tender  when  touched  by  the  frost. 

The  seed  may  be  sown  about  the  middle  of  May,  in  the 
same  manner  as  Borecole,  and  the  plants  set  out  with  a  dib- 
ble early  in  July.  The  subsequent  treatment  must  be  in 
eveiy  respect  as  for  Borecole. 

Some  gardeners,  with  a  view  to  furnish  the  New-York 
markets  with  greens  early  in  the  ?pring  season,  when  vege- 
tables in  general  are  scarce,  cidtivate  the  common  Rape, 
(^Brassica  Rapus ;)  it  being  a  good  substitute  for  Brussels 
Sprouts,  which  are  not  always  attainable  after  a  hard  winter. 
If  Rape  seed  be  sown  early  in  September,  the  plants  will 
survive  an  ordinary  winter,  and  produce  top  shoots  or  sprouts 
early ;  but  it  is  best  sown  as  soon  as  the  ground  is  suscepti- 
ble of  cultivation  in  the  spring,  say  the  last  week  in  March. 
The  sjirouts  should  be  cut  while  young,  as  such  greens  then 
command  the  best  prices,  and  are  more  palatable  than  when 
far  advanced  in  growth. 

It  may  be  necessary  to  add  that,  in  cooking  these  sprouts, 
as  also  Kale,  Colewort,  and  gi-eens  in  general,  they  should 
be  put  into  hot  water,  seasoned  with  salt,  and  kept  boiling 
briskly  until  tender.  If  it  be  an  object  to  2>i'esei-ve  then' 
natural  colour,  put  a  small  lump  of  pearlash  into  the  water, 
which  also  makes  the  coarser  kinds  of  cabbage  more  tender 
in  the  absence  of  meat. 


48  BROCCOLI. 

BROCCOLI. 
Chou  Brocoli.     Brassica  ohracea  lialica. 


Early  White. 
Early  Dwarf  Purple. 
Early  Green. 
Dwarf  Brown. 
Large  Late  Purple. 


VARIETIES. 

Lar^e  Purple  Cape. 
White  Cape,  or  Cauliflower. 
Sulphur-coloured  Cape. 
Branching  Purple. 
Large  Late  Green. 


The  several  varieties  of  Broccoli  and  Cauliflower  may  be 
justly  ranked  among  the  greatest  luxuries  of  the  garden. 
They  need  only  be  known  in  order  to  be  esteemed.  The 
Broccoli  produces  heads,  consisting  of  a  lump  of  rich,  seedy 
pulp  like  the  Cauliflower,  only  that  some  are  of  a  green 
colour,  some  purple,  some  brown,  &c.,  and  the  white  kinds 
so  exactly  resemble  the  true  Cauliflower,  as  to  be  scarcely 
distinguishable,  either  in  colour  or  taste. 

Broccoli  is  quite  plentiful  throughout  England  the  greater 
part  of  the  year,  and  it  is  raised  with  as  little  trouble  as 
Cabbages  are  here.  The  mode  of  raising  the  jjurple  Cape 
Broccoli  is  now  generally  understood  in  this  part  of  America ; 
but  the  cultivation  of  the  other  kinds,  has  been  nearly  aban- 
doned, on  account  of  the  ill  success  attending  former  attempts 
to  bring  them  to  perfection. 

In  some  of  the  Southern  States,  where  the  winters  are  not 
more  severe  than  in  England,  they  will  stand  in  the  open 
ground,  and  continue  to  produce  their  fine  heads  from  No- 
vember to  April.  In  the  Eastern,  Western,  and  Middle 
States,  if  the  seed  of  the  late  kinds  be  sown  in  April,  and 
the  earlier  kinds  in  May,  in  the  open  ground,  and  treated 
in  the  same  manner  as  Cauliflower,  it  would  be  the  most 
certain  method  of  obtaining  large  and  early  flowers ;  but  as 
only  a  part  of  these  crops  can  be  expected  to  come  to  per- 
fection before  the  approach  of  winter,  the  remainder  will 
have  to  be  taken  up,  laid  in  by  the  roots,  and  covered  up 
with  earth  to  the  lower  leaves,  in  some  sheltered  situation, 
to  promote  the  finishing  of  their  growth. 


BROCCOLI..  49 

Those  who  are  desirous  of  obtaining  Broccoli  and  Cauli- 
flower in  any  quantity,  so  as  to  have  all  the  different  varieties 
in  succession  throughout  the  winter  months,  should  have 
places  erected  similar  to  some  of  our  greenhouses  :  the  back 
and  roof  may  be  made  of  refuse  lumber,  which  being  after- 
ward covered  with  fresh  stable  dung,  will  keep  out  the  frost. 
The  place  allotted  for  Cape  Bi'occoli  and  Cauliflower  should 
have  a  glazed,  roof  to  face  the  south ;  the  sashes  must  be 
made  to  take  off  in  mild  weather,  but  they  should  be  always 
kept  shut  in  severe  cold  weatlier,  and  covered  with  mats,  or 
boards,  litier,  &c.,  so  effectually  as  to  keep  out  the  frost. 

The  hardy  kinds  of  Broccoli  may  be  preser\'ed  without 
glass,  by  having  shutters  provided  to  slide  over  the  front  in 
extreme  cold  weather,  which  may  be  covered  over  with  fresh 
stable  dung  or  other  litter.  If  these  plants  get  frozen,  it 
will  be  necessary  to  shade  them  from  the  full  rays  of  the  sun 
until  they  are  thawed ;  this  may  be  done  by  shaking  a  little 
straw  on  the  bed.  as  they  lay. 

It  may  not,  perhaps,  be  generally  understood,  that  the  sud- 
den transition  from  cold  to  heat  is  more  destmctive  to  vege- 
tables than  the  cold  itself.  If  plants  of  any  kind  get  frozen, 
and  cannot  be  screened  from  the  full  rays  of  the  sun,  they 
should  be  well  watered  as  the  air  gets  warm,  and  before  they 
begin  to  thaw  ;  this  \vill  draw  out  the  frost,  and  may  be  the 
means  of  saving  the  plants. 

The  proper  time  for  sowing  the  seed  of  Purple  Cape 
Broccoli  is  from  the  tenth  to  the  twenty-fourth  of  May :  * 
those  who  intend  to  provide  a  place  for  the  winter  keeping 

•  It  has  been  proved  by  repeated  experiments,  that  the  Purple  Cape 
Broccoli  succeeds  better  in  our  climate  than  any  other  variety ;  and,  also, 
that  if  Broccoli  or  Cauliflower  plants  be  retarded  in  growth  by  extreme 
heat,  they  seldom  arrive  at  full  perfection.  It  is,  therefore,  important  that 
the  time  of  sowing  the  seed  of  Cape  Broccoli  be  so  regulated  as  to  allow, 
say  six  weeks  of  the  summer,  for  the  plants  to  grow  in,  previous  to  their 
being  transplanted,  and  about  seven  or  eight  weeks  between  that  and  the 
commencement  of  cool  autumn  weather,  which  is  essential  to  mature  them. 

If  seed  be  sown  much  before  the  middle  of  May,  or  so  early  that  the 
plants  arrive  at  full  growth  in  the  heat  of  summer,  and  thereby  become 

5 


50  BROCCOLI. 

of  the  other  kinds,  may  sow  seed  of  the  most  esteemed  varie- 
ties at  the  same  time,  or  in  two  or  three  separate  sowings,  a 
week  apart. 

In  order  to  insure  good  stout  plants,  let  the  seed  at  this 
season  be  sown  in  a  moderately  shaded  border.  It  is  best 
to  sow  it  in  shallow  drills,  drawn  three  or  four  inches  apait, 
in  which  case,  one  ounce  of  seed  will  occupy  a  border  of 
about  four  feet  in  width  by  twelve  in  length,  and  produce 
about  four  thousand  strong  plants.     {See  article  Cabbage.) 

In  the  beginning  of  July,  or  when  the  plants  are  of  suffi- 
cient size,  they  should  be  transplanted  into  extraordinarily  rich 
gi-ound,  which  should  be  previously  brought  into  good  con- 
dition. This  being  done,  plant  them  in  rows  two  feet  and  a 
half  apart,  and  two  feet  distant  in  the  rows.  As  soon  as 
they  have  taken  root,  give  the  ground  a  deep  hoeing,  and 
repeat  this  two  or  three  times  in  the  course  of  their  growth, 
drawing  some  earth  around  their  stems. 

Some  of  the  Cape  Broccoli,  if  attended  to  as  directed, 
will  come  to  perfection  early  in  September  and  in  October ; 
the  other  kinds  will  produce  their  heads  in  regular  succes- 
sion throughout  the  winter  and  spiing  months,  according  to 
their  different  degrees  of  earliness,  pro\'ided  an  artificial  cli- 
mate be  provided  for  them.  These,  of  course,  with  what- 
ever may  remain  of  the  Cape  Broccoli,  will  have  to  be  taken 
up  early  in  October,  and  laid  in  carefully,  with  the  roots  and 
stems  covered  with  earth  as  far  as  their  lower  leaves.  Those 
who  have  not  a  place  provided,  may  keep  a  few  in  frames, 
or  in  a  light  cellar  ;  but  every  gardener  and  country  gentle- 
man should  have  suitable  places  erected  for  a  vegetable  that 
yields  such  a  delicious  repast,  at  a  time  when  other  luxuries 
of  the  garden  are  comparatively  out  of  our  reach. 

stunted,  they  generally  button,  instead  of  forming  perfect  heads  of  flowers, 
and  are  consequently  of  no  use  but  for  cattle. 

In  some  of  the  Southern  States,  late  planting  of  Broccoli  and  Cauliflower 
succeeds  better  than  early,  because  the  winters  are  calculated  to  mature 
these  vegetables,  from  their  not  being  subject  to  injury  from  slight  frost,  in 
a  late  stage  of  their  growth. 


CAULIFLOWER.  51 

CAULIFLOWER. 
Choufleur,     Brassica  oleracea  botrytis. 

VARIETIES. 

Early  White.  I  Late  White. 

Hardy  Red,  or  Purple  Cauliflower. 

This  is  a  first  rate  vegetable,  to  obtain  which,  great  pains 
must  be  taken  in  every  stage  of  its  growth,  the  extremes  of 
heat  and  cold  being  very  much  against  it :  which  circum- 
stance accounts  for  good  Cauliflowers  being  scarcely  attain- 
able in  unpropitious  seasons,  and  which  the  no\'ice  falsely 
attributes  to  defectiveness  of  the  seed. 

To  produce  early  Cauliflower,  the  seed  should  be  sown  be- 
tween the  sixteenth  and  twenty-fourth  of  September,  in  a 
bed  of  clean,  rich  earth.  In  about  four  or  five  weeks  after- 
ward, the  plants  should  be  pricked  out  into  another  bed,  at 
the  distance  of  four  inches  from  each  other  every  way ;  this 
bed  should  be  encompassed  with  garden  frames,  covered 
with  glazed  sashes,  and  boards  or  shutters ;  the  plants  should 
be  watered  and  shaded  a  few  days  till  they  have  taken  root ; 
they  will  afterward  require  light  and  air  every  mild  day 
throughout  the  winter ;  but  the  outsides  of  the  frames  must 
be  so  lined  and  secured,  and  the  tops  of  the  beds  so  covered, 
as  to  keep  out  all  frost. 

The  plants  should  be  well  attended  to  until  the  time  of 
transplanting  in  the  spring ;  and  those  who  have  not  hand  or 
bell  glasses,  so  as  to  enable  them  to  set  some  out  by  the  latter 
end  of  March,  should  have  a  frame  ready  about  the  last  week 
in  February,  in  order  that  they  may  be  transplanted  to  the 
distance  of  eight  or  nine  inches  apart ;  this  would  prevent 
them  from  buttoning  or  growing  up  weak ;  if  this  be  not 
done,  some  of  the  strongest  plants  should  be  taken  out  of  the 
beds  and  planted  in  flower  pots,  which  may  afterward  be 
placed  in  a  frame  or  greenhouse,  until  the  weather  be  warm 
and  settled,  which  may  be  expected  soon  after  the  middle  of 


58  CAULIFLOWER. 

April.  They  should  then  be  turned  out  with  the  balls  of 
earth  entire,  and  transplanted  into  a  bed  of  the  richest  earth 
in  the  garden,  at  the  distance  of  two  feet  and  a  half  from 
each  other  every  way ;  the  residue  may  be  taken  up  from  the 
frame  the  last  week  in  April,  or  earlier,  if  the  season  proves 
mild,  by  means  of  a  garden  trowel,  and  transplanted  as 
above.* 

The  plants  should  afterward  be  well  cultivated,  by  hoeing 
the  ground  deep  around  them,  and  bringing  some  earth  grad- 
ually up  to  their  stem,  so  as  to  push  them  fonvard  before  the 
approach  of  warm  weather.  When  the  soil  has  been  drawn 
up  to  the  plants  some  little  time,  fork  the  ground  between  the 
rows  lightly  over,  which  will  promote  their  gi'owth.  They 
should  be  liberally  supplied  with  water  in  dry  weather;  those 
out  of  flower  twice  a  week,  and  those  in,  every  other  day, 
which  will  contribute  to  their  producing  very  large  heads.  As 
the  flower  heads  appear,  the  larger  leaves  should  be  broken 
down  over  them,  to  defend  them  from  the  sun  and  rain,  in 
order  that  the  heads  or  pulps  may  be  close,  and  of  their  nat- 
ural colour. 

Plants  from  the  autumn  sowing  are  generally  allowed  to 
succeed  best ;  but  good  Cauliflowers  are  sometimes  produced 
from  seed  sown  in  a  hot-bed  toward  the  end  of  January,  or 
early  in  February.  Great  pains  must  be  taken  to  have  the 
bed  in  good  condition  to  receive  the  seed;  when  the  plants 
are  up,  they  must  have  air  every  mild  day,  and  as  they  pro- 


*  Many  persons  are  apt  to  forget,  that  the  successful  cultivation  of  Cau- 
liflower depends  on  the  particular  seasons  in  which  the  plants  are  raised 
and  set  out  ;  and,  consequently,  instead  of  raising  their  own  plants  in  the 
right  seasons,  apply  for  them  at  the  seed-stores  and  gardens,  in  May  and 
June.  Now,  it  should  be  recollected,  that  if  early  Cauliflower  do  not  ar- 
rive at,  or  near  perfection,  by  the  end  of  June,  the  plants  get  stunted  by 
the  heat,  and  seldom  yield  any  thin;;  but  leaves,  except  the  summer  should 
prove  mild,  in  which  case,  some  of  the  early  plants  may  flower  in  autumn  ; 
but  it  is  needless  to  risk  the  setting  out  of  early  Cauliflower  plants  later 
than  April  for  the  sake  of  such  chance,  because  plants  raised  from  seed 
sown  about  the  middle  of  May,  and  transplanted  in  July,  are  by  far  the 
most  likely  to  produce  good  fall  Cauliflower. 


CAULIFLOWER.  53 

gress  in  growth,  they  should  have  as  much  air  as  possible, 
consistent  with  their  preservation ;  but  the  beds  must  be  kept 
covered  up  every  night,  as  long  as  there  is  any  danger  of 
frost.  When  the  plants  are  three  or  four  inches  high,  they 
must  be  pricked  out  three  or  four  inches  apart  into  another 
bed,  and  by  the  latter  end  of  April  they  may  be  transplanted 
into  the  gi'ound,  and  treated  in  every  respect  the  same  as 
the  other. 

In  the  early  part  of  May,  Cauliflower  seed  may  be  sown 
in  the  open  border,  in  drills,  as  recommended  for  Broccoli, 
and  one  ounce  of  seed  \vill  produce  about  four  thousand 
plants.  These  plants  should  be  pricked  out  in  June,  and 
transplanted  into  good  ground  early  in  July,  to  flower  in 
Autumn:  those  that  are  not  likely  to  flower  by  the  last  of 
October,  should  be  taken  up  and  provided  for  in  the  manner 
recommended  for  Broccoli. 

Cauliflower,  and  also  Broccoli,  should  be  gathered  while 
the  pulp  is  close  and  perfect.  After  ha\ang  trimmed  off"  some 
of  the  outside  leaves,  let  them  be  boiled  in  ])lenty  of  water 
seasoned  with  salt,  taking  care  to  skim  it,  and  also  to  ease  the 
cover  of  the  pot  so  as  not  to  confine  the  steam.  Take  them 
up  as  soon  as  the  fork  will  enter  the  stems  easily,  which  will 
be  in  from  ten  to  twenty  minutes,  according  to  their  size 
and  age ;  drain  them  so  as  to  make  them  susceptible  of  ab- 
sorbing a  due  proportion  of  gi-avy,  melted  butter,  &c.  This 
renders  them  a  palatable  and  dainty  dish, 


54  CABBAGE. 


CABBAGE. 
Chou.     Brassica  oleracea,  etc. 


Early  Imperial. 
Early  Dwarf  Dutch. 
Early  York. 
Early  Sugarloaf. 
Early  Kniperor. 
Early  Wellington. 
Early  Heart-shaped. 
Early  London  Market. 
Early  London  Battersea. 


VARIETIES. 

Large  Bergen,  or  American. 
Late  Flat  German. 
Large  Green  Glazed. 
Large  Late  Drumhead. 
Red  Dutch,  for  pickling. 
Green  Globe  Savoy. 
Large  Cape  Savoy. 
Green  Curled  Savoy. 
Turnip-rooted,  in  varieties 


The  early  sorts  of  spring  Cabbage  may  be  raised  in  vari- 
ous w^ays.  Some  sow  the  seed  between  the  tenth  and  twenty- 
fourth  of  September,  pricked  out  and  managed  the  same  as 
CauHflower  plants,  only  that  they  are  more  hardy,  and  may 
sometimes  be  kept  through  the  winter,  without  sashes. 

Some  prefer  sowing  the  seed  in  a  cold-bed,  covered  by  a 
garden  frame  with  sashes.  If  this  frame  be  placed  on  a 
■warm  border,  and  kept  free  from  frost,  and  the  seed  of  the 
early  kinds  sown  the  latter  end  of  January,  or  early  in  Feb- 
ruary, these  plants  will  be  better  than  those  raised  in  the 
fall  ;  as  they  will  not  be  so  liable  to  run  to  seed,  and  they 
will  be  more  hardy,  and  full  as  early  as  those  raised  in  hot- 
beds in  the  spring. 

Or,  if  a  heap  of  fresh  horse  manure  be  deposited  on  the 
ground  intended  for  the  raising  of  early  plants  before  the 
ft-ost  sets  in,  the  same  may  be  removed  some  mild  day  in 
January  or  February,  and  temporary  frames  made  by  driving 
stakes  in  the  ground,  and  nailing  planks  or  slabs  thereto. 
The  ground  being  then  dug,  the  seed  sown,  and  covered  up 
with  sashes,  will  soon  produce  plants  in  perfection.  The 
frames  should  be  well  protected,  by  placing  the  manure 
around  them,  and  covering  the  tops  with  mats,  boards,  &c., 
as  directed  for  hot-beds  in  the  Calendar  for  February  and 
March. 


CABBAGE.  55 

It  is  customary  with  gai'deners  about  New- York  to  raise 
their  plants  in  hot-beds.  In  order  to  do  this,  the  beds  should 
be  prepared,  as  directed  in  a  future  page  of  this  book,  (see 
Index,)  so  as  to  be  ready  to  receive  the  seed  by  the  latter 
end  of  February,  or  early  in  March.  Plants  thus  produced, 
as  well  as  those  raised  as  before  directed,  will  be  fit  to  trans- 
plant about  the  middle  of  April,  and  should  be  carefully 
planted,  with  a  suitable  dibble,  in  good  ground,  from  sixteen 
inches  to  two  feet  apart,  according  to  size  and  kind  :  these 
by  being  hoed  often,  will  produce  good  Cabbages  in  June, 
If  seed  of  the  large  early  kinds  be  sown  in  a  warm  border, 
early  in  April,  they  will  produce  plants  fit  to  transplant  in 
May,  which  will  make  good  Cabbages  for  summer  use.* 

The  seed  of  Red  Cabbage  may  be  sown  toward  the  end 
of  Api-il  or  early  in  INIay,  and  that  of  Savoys  and  late  Cab- 
bage in  general,  may  be  sown  at  two  or  three  diffei'ent  times, 
between  the  middle  and  the  end  of  May,  in  fresh  rich  ground- 

The  most  certain  way  of  raising  good  strong  plants  in  the 
summer  season,  is  to  sow  the  seed  in  a  moderately  shaded 
border,  in  shallow  drills  drawn  three  or  four  inches  apart- 
One  ounce  of  seed  sown  in  this  manner,  will  occupy  a  bor- 
der of  about  four  feet  in  width  by  twelve  in  length,  and  pro- 
duce about  four  thousand  stout  plants  ;  whereas,  if  seed  be 
sown  broad-cast,  as  is  the  usual  custom,  two  ounces  of  seed 


*  As  numerous  species  of  insects  attack  plants  of  the  Brassica  or  Cab- 
bage tribe,  in  every  stage  of  their  growth,  great  caution  is  necessary  in  their 
cultivation.  For  a  prevention  to  the  attacks  of  fleas  or  flies,  see  page  19 
of  the  General  Remarks.  Perhaps  the  most  effectual  way  of  saving  plants 
from  grub-worms,  is  not  to  transplant  any,  during  the  month  of  June. 
Seed  beds  are  very  seldom  attacked  ;  but  if  they  should  be,  they  may  be 
protected  by  digging  trenches  around  tiiem,  and  throwing  in  lime,  salt,  or 
ashes,  sufficient  to  prevent  the  ingress  of  the  worms.  If  seed  of  the  vari- 
ous kinds  be  sown  at  the  times  recommended,  the  early  varieties  will  be  so 
far  advanced  in  growth  before  tlie  grub-worms  prevail,  as  to  be  out  of  their 
reach  ;  and  by  the  time  the  late  sown  plants  are  ready  to  transplant,  the 
worms  will  be  harmless,  because  they  turn  gray  toward  the  end  of  June, 
and  by  the  middle  of  July,  the  time  recommended  for  general  transplanting, 
the  danger  from  grub-worms  is  over.  For  the  destruction  of  caterpillars, 
eee  General  Remarks,  page  20. 


56  CABBAGE. 

may  not  produce  so  many  good  plants,  as  the  one  ounce  on 
the  plan  recommended. 

The  Bergen,  and  other  large  kinds,  should  be  transplanted 
the  second  and  third  week  in  July,  in  rows  thirty  inches 
asunder,  and  the  plants  about  two  feet  apart  in  the  rows : 
the  Savoys  and  smaller  sorts  may  be  planted  about  the  same 
time,  but  from  four  to  six  inches  nearer  every  way.  Cabbage 
succeeds  best  in  a  fresh  rich  soil,  and  the  ground  should  be 
deeply  hoed  or  ploughed,  at  least  three  times,  during  their 
gi'owth. 

The  Brassica  Rapa,  or  Turnip  Cabbage,  jjroduces  its  bulb, 
or  protuberance,  on  the  stems  above  ground,  immediately 
under  the  leaves.  It  is  eatable  when  young,  or  about  the 
fiize  of  a  garden  Turnip. 

The  seed  may  be  sown  in  Api'il  or  May,  and  the  plants 
aftei'ward  treated  the  same  as  Cabbage,  only  that  in  earthing 
up  the  plants  you  must  be  careful  not  to  cover  the  globular 
part. 

They  are  much  more  hardy  than  Turnips.  In  England 
the  bulbs  often  grow  to  upward  of  twenty  inches  in  circum- 
ference, and  weigh  from  ten  to  twelve  pounds.  They  are 
cultivated  for  the  feeding  of  cows  and  sheep,  as  well  as  for 
table  use  ;  in  either  case  they  treat  them  as  they  do  Cabbage, 
or  sow  them  like  Turnips,  and  afterward  hoe  them  out  to 
proper  distances. 

The  Brassica  JVaptis,  or  Tumip-rooted  Cabbage,  has  an 
oblong  thick  root  in  the  fonn  of  a  winter  Radish ;  it  is  ex- 
tremely hardy,  and  will  survive  very  hard  frosts  ;  the  seed 
should  be  sown  in  rich  ground,  and  treated  in  every  respect 
as  Turnips,  obsei-ving  to  thin  the  plants  with  a  hoe  to  the  dis- 
tance of  sixteen  inches  apart.  Their  roots  will  be  much 
larger  and  better  when  treated  in  this  way,  than  if  trans- 
planted. 

The  Brassica  JYapvs,  variety  esculenta,  is  sometimes  culti- 
vated as  a  salad  herb.  It  is  held  in  great  esteem  by  the 
French  as  a  culinary  vegetable,  and  is  called  the  Navet,  or 


COLEWORT,    OR   COLLARDS.  57 

French  Tumip.  In  France,  as  well  as  in  Germany,  few 
gi-eat  dinners  are  served  up  without  it,  in  some  shape  or 
other. 


COLEWORT,  OR  COLLARDS. 
Chou  vert.     Brassica  oleracea. 

This  is  a  species  of  Cabbage  which  is  eaten  when  young; 
it  so  nearly  resembles  the  early  kinds  of  Cabbage,  that  it  is 
seldom  cultivated.  The  English  frequently  sow  the  seed  of 
early  heading  kinds  of  Cabbage  as  a  substitute,  which  being 
done  at  different  seasons,  enables  them  to  procure  a  supply 
of  fresh  greens  from  their  gardens  every  day  in  the  year. 
This  is  not  attainable  here,  on  account  of  the  extremes  of 
heat  and  cold ;  but  Collards  would  prove  very  valuable  and 
acceptable,  in  the  event  of  an  unfavourable  season  for  fall 
Cabbage. 

If  the  seed  of  Early  York,  Early  Dutch,  or  other  early 
kinds  of  Cabbage,  be  sown  in  June,  July,  and  August,  and 
tansplanted  as  they  become  fit,  into  good  gi'ound,  from  fif- 
teen to  eighteen  inches  apart,  the  first  planting  would  make 
good  heads  for  fall  use  ;  and  the  plants  of  late  sowings,  if 
transplanted  in  September  and  October,  in  a  warm  border, 
would  produce  tender,  sweet-eating  greens  for  use  in  the 
early  part  of  winter;  the  latter  plantings  maybe  placed  ten 
or  twelve  inches  from  plant  to  plant.  These  could  be  easily 
sheltered  on  the  approach  of  severe  weather,  without  being 
taken  up.  The  cultivation  of  Collards  is  well  adapted  to  our 
Southern  States,  as  there  they  need  no  protection  in  winter. 


58  CARROT. 

CARDOONS. 

Cardon.      Cynara  cardtmculus. 

The  Cardoon  Artichoke,  a  native  of  Candia,  is  much  cul- 
tivated in  Europe  for  cuUnary  purposes,  such  as  for  salads, 
soups,  stews,  &c. 

The  stems  of  the  leaves  being  thick  and  ciisp,  are  the  eat- 
able parts,  after  being  blanched.  They  are  in  perfection  in 
autumn  and  winter. 

The  .seed  may  be  sown  in  a  bed  of  rich  earth  in  the  month 
of  April ;  and  one  ounce  will  produce  about  six  hundred 
plants  :  when  the  plants  are  up  strong,  they  should  be  thin- 
ned so  as  to  leave  them  four  or  five  inches  apart,  to  prevent 
them  from  becoming  weak.  They  may  be  transplanted  in 
June,  at  the  distance  of  four  feet  from  each  other  every  way ; 
observe,  before  planting,  to  dress  their  tops  and  roots  the 
same  as  Celery.  As  they  advance  in  growth,  they  are  to  be 
earthed  up  for  blanching,  keeping  the  leaves  close  together; 
this  may  be  done  with  bass  or  matting,  as  practised  with  En- 
dive ;  they  are  afterward  to  be  eaithed  up  gradually  from 
time  to  time,  until  whitened  to  a  sufficient  height.  As  win- 
ter approaches,  Cardoons  must  be  taken  up  and  laid  away 
like  Celery,  or  they  may  be  preserved  with  sand  in  a  cellar. 


CARROT. 
Garotte.     Daucics  carota. 


VARIETIES. 


Early  Orange. 
Long  Orange. 
Altringham. 


Long  Lemon-coloured. 
Blood  Red. 
Long  White. 


The  CaiTot  is  a  native  of  Britain,  and  grows  by  the  road- 
side in  many  parts.  As  a  cuHnary  vegetable,  it  is  much 
used  in  soups  and  stews,  and  forms  a  dish  with  boiled  beef, 
&c.  The  coarse  sorts  are  cultivated  as  fodder  for  cows, 
sheep,  oxen,  and  horses,  and  are  considei'ed  profitable,  as 


CARROT.  59 

they  frequently  yield  upward  of  four  liundi-ed  bushels  to  an 
acre,  when  cultivated  on  the  field  system. 

For  the  garden,  the  Early  Orange  should  be  cultivated  for 
spring  and  summer  use  ;  but  the  Long  Orange  is  more  suit- 
able for  main  crops,  on  account  of  its  bright  orange  colour, 
as  well  as  for  its  gi-eat  size  and  length.  CaiTots  gi'ow  to 
great  perfection  in  a  rich  loamy  soil,  and  may  be  raised  in 
drills  drawn  about  one  inch  deep,  and  twelve  inches  asunder. 
A  small  bed  may  be  planted  at  the  latter  end  of  March  for 
an  early  crop,  and  from  that  time  to  the  end  of  May  for  suc- 
cessive crops ;  but  the  principal  crop  should  not  be  sown  too 
soon,  as  the  early  plantings  are  apt  to  produce  seed-stalks, 
and,  consequently,  stringy  and  useless  roots. 

The  most  suitable  ground  for  late  CaiTots,  is  that  which 
has  been  well  manured  for  previous  crops,  and  requires  no 
fresh  manure.  If  the  seed  be  sown  in  June,  and  the  plants 
thinned  out  to  the  distance  of  five  or  six  inches  from  each 
other  when  young,  and  kept  hoed,  they  will  yield  an  abun- 
dance of  fine  roots  for  winter  and  spring  use,  by  being  taken 
up  in  autumn,  and  preserved  either  in  sand  in  a  cellar,  or 
covered  up  in  pits  in  a  garden,  as  directed  in  the  Calendar 
for  November. 

Although  CaiTot  seed  is  naturally  small  and  light,  it  seldom 
fails  to  vegetate  in  favourable  seasons  ;  it,  therefore,  need  not 
be  sown  too  thick  in  ground  not  apt  to  produce  weeds.  If 
a  root  could  be  insured  to  grow  unmolested  in  eveiy  instance 
where  a  seed  may  be  deposited,  two  pounds  woldd  be  more 
than  sufficient  for  an  acre  of  land ;  but  gardeners  generally 
use  four  or  five  pounds  to  the  acre,  in  order  that  the  rows 
may  be  more  easily  traced  in  the  event  of  a  luxuriant  gi'owth 
of  weeds.  To  avoid  risking  an  unequal  crop  in  small  gar- 
dens, half  an  ounce  of  seed  should  be  allotted  for  every  pole, 
perch,  or  rod,  or  twenty  ounces  for  a  rood  of  land.  On  light 
ground,  the  use  of  a  roller  would  be  beneficial  in  dry  weather, 
excess  of  which  is  detrimental  to  the  germination  of  Carrot, 
as  well  as  of  all  other  lifjht  seed. 


60  CELERY. 

CELERY. 
Celeri.     Apium  graveolens. 

VARIETIES. 

White  Solid.  i  New  White  Lion's  Paw. 

Red-coloured  Solid.  |  North's  Red  Giant. 

Celeriac,  or  Turnip-rooted. 

This  vegetable,  so  much  esteemed  as  a  salad,  is  known  in 
its  wild  state  by  the  name  of  Sraallage  ;  and  is  found  in  great 
abundance  by  the  sides  of  ditches,  and  near  the  seacoast  of 
Britain.  The  effects  of  cultivation  are  here  strikingly  exhi- 
bited, in  producing  from  a  rank,  coarse  weed,  the  mild  and 
sweet  stalks  of  the  Celery.  This  circumstance  should  stimu- 
late the  young  gardener  to  aim  at  improvement  in  the  culti- 
vation of  plants  in  general. 

It  is  customary  with  some  gardeners  to  raise  their  early 
plants  in  hot-beds ;  but  as  plants  thus  raised  are  apt  to  pro- 
duce seed- stalks,  it  is  much  safer  to  cultivate  them  in  cold- 
beds,  prepared  as  directed  for  the  raising  of  early  Cabbage 
plants.  The  seed  for  a  general  crop  may  be  sown  the  last 
week  in  March,  or  early  in  April,  in  rich,  mellow  ground, 
and  in  a  situation  where  the  plants  can  be  protected  from  the 
parching  heat  of  a  summer  sun  (a  border  against  a  north 
aspect  is  the  most  suitable).  Some  sow  the  seed  broad-cast, 
but  the  plants  will  be  much  stouter  if  raised  in  drills.  The 
drills  may  be  half  an  inch  deep,  and  six  inches  apart,  so  that 
a  small  hoe  can  be  worked  between  the  rows ;  and  if  pro- 
perly attended  to,  every  ounce  of  seed  so  sown  will  produce 
ten  thousand  strong  plants  or  more. 

The  early  sown  plants  should  be  pricked  out  in  a  nursery 
bed  of  cool  rich  earth,  as  soon  as  they  are  two  or  thiee  inches 
high,  there  to  remain  about  a  month,  after  which  they  will 
be  fit  to  transplant  into  the  trenches. 

Choose  for  this  purpose  a  piece  of  rich  ground,  in  an  open 
exposure  ;  mark  out  the  trenches  by  line,  ten  or  twelve  inches 
wdde,  and  allow  the  space  of  three  feet  between  them,  which 


CELERY.  61 

will  be  sufficient  for  the  eaily  plantations.  Dig  eacn  trench 
a  moderate  spade  deep,  laying  the  dug-out  earth  equally  on 
each  side,  between  the  trenches ;  put  three  inches  deep  of 
very  rotten  dung  In  the  bottom  of  each  trench,  then  pare  the 
sides,  and  dig  the  dung  and  parings  with  an  Inch  or  two  of 
the  loose  mould  at  the  bottom,  incorporating  all  well  together, 
and  put  in  the  plants.* 

Previous  to  planting,  trim  the  plants,  by  cutting  off  the 
long  straggling  leaves,  and  also  the  ends  of  the  roots.  Let 
them  be  planted  with  a  dibble,  in  single  rows,  along  the  mid- 
dle of  each  trench,  five  or  six  inches  between  plant  and  plant ; 
as  soon  as  they  are  planted,  give  them  a  plentiful  watering, 
and  let  them  be  shaded  until  they  strike  root  and  begin  to 
grow. 

The  main  crops  may  be  planted  in  the  same  way,  but  In 
trenches  four  feet  distant  from  each  other,  and  an  inch  or 
two  farther  from  plant  to  plant ;  or  in  beds  made  In  the  fol- 
lowing manner,  which,  for  the  ease  of  preserving  the  plants 
in  winter,  will  be  found  extremely  convenient,  besides  a 
greater  quantity  can  be  raised  on  a  given  jiiece  of  ground. 

Lay  out  the  ground  into  beds  four  feet  wide,  with  alleys 
between,  three  feet ;  dig  the  beds  a  spade  deep,  throwing  the 
earth  on  the  alleys :  when  done,  lay  four  or  five  Inches  of 
good,  well-rotted  dung  all  over  the  bottom  of  the  beds,  dig 
and  Incorporate  It  with  the  loose  earth,  and  cover  the  whole 
with  an  Inch  or  two  of  earth  from  the  alleys ;  plant  four  rows 

*  Some  gardeners  are  accustomed  to  cultivate  Celery  on  the  level  ground ; 
others,  after  making  their  trenches  in  the  usual  way,  go  to  the  expense  of 
carting  peculiar  soil  from  a  distance,  with  which  they  replenish  their 
trenches  until  nearly  full.  Those  who  have  pursued  the  latter  plan,  say 
that  tliey  are  rewarded  for  their  trouble  by  gathering  roots  of  superior  size 
and  quality  ;  but  it  is  doubtful  whether  it  would  prove  profitable  to  prac- 
tice this  plan  on  an  extensive  scale.  It  may,  however,  be  judicious  in  those 
gardeners,  whose  subsoil,  or  under  stratum,  is  inferior,  or  ill-adapted  for 
the  growth  of  Celery,  to  cultivate  it  in  shallow  drills,  or  furrows  worked 
out  with  a  plough,  by  which  means  they  may  secure  good  soil  to  plant  in, 
and  also  to  earth  up  with.  In  such  cases  the  rows  must  be  from  four  to 
five  feet  apart,  and  frequent  ploughing  between  them  would  promote  the 
growth  of  tlie  plants. 

6 


62  CELERY, 

in  each  bed  at  equal  distances,  and  from  six  to  eight  inches 
apart  in  the  rows ;  after  which,  give  them  a  plentiful  water- 
ing, and  shade  them. 

The  plants  must  be  hoed  occasionally,  until  grown  of  suf- 
ficient size  for  eaithing,  which  is  done  with  the  assistance  of 
boards,  by  laying  them  along  the  rows,  to  support  the  leaves 
while  you  are  putting  in  the  earth  from  the  alleys,  and  re- 
moving them  as  you  progress  in  the  business. 

The  earthing  should  never  be  done  when  the  plants  are 
wet,  as  this  is  apt  to  make  the  Celery  rusty,  but  should  be 
performed  gradually  in  fine  weather  as  the  plants  progress 
in  gi'owth,  lepeating  the  earthing  every  two  weeks ;  at  which 
time  care  should  be  taken  to  gather  up  all  the  leaves  neatly, 
and  not  to  bury  the  hearts  of  the  plants.  When  they  are 
grown  two  feet  high,  and  well  blanched,  they  are  fit  for  the 
table. 

As  Celery  will  grow  three  or  four  feet  high  in  one  season, 
it  will  be  necessary  to  delay  the  planting  of  that  which  is  in- 
tended for  winter  use  until  the  latter  end  of  July,  but  the 
trenches  should  always  be  got  ready  soon  enough  to  avoid  a 
serious  drought,  which  often  delays  the  planting  till  too  late 
in  the  season.  The  blanching  of  Celery  for  winter  use  may 
be  delayed  until  October. 

By  market  gardeners  who  raise  Celery  on  a  large  scale, 
the  trenches  may  be  worked  out  with  a  plough,  and  finished 
•with,  a  spade  or  hoe.  The  ground  may  also  be  ploughed 
between  each  row  of  Celery  previous  to  earthing  it  up  ;  t]jis 
will  save  much  labour. 

The  Celeriac,  or  Turnip-rooted,  may  be  planted  either  on 
level  ground  or  in  shallow  drills  ;  the  root  of  it  swells  like  a 
Turnip,  and  may  be  pi'eserved  in  sand  through  the  winter. 
The  French  and  Crermans  cut  it  in  slices,  and  soak  it  a  few 
hours  in  vinegar  ;  by  such  simple  prej^aration,  it  becomes 
mellow  as  a  pineapple,  and  affords  a  delicious  and  very  nour- 
ishing repast. 


CORN  SALAD,  OR  FETTICUS.  63 

CORN  SALAD,  OR  FETTICUS. 

Mache  ou  doucette.     Valeriana  locusta. 

VARIETY. — Olitoria. 

This  plant  grows  spontaneously  in  the  corn-fields  of  Eng- 

d,  hence  it  is  called  Corn  Salad  :  and  from  its  beingf  suf- 
ficiently  hardy  to  stand  the  winter,  and  affording  an  early 
pasturage,  it  has  acquired  the  appellation  of  Lamb's  Lettuce. 
It  is  cultivated  as  a  salad  for  winter  and  early  spring  use. 
The  seed  may  be  sown  in  rich,  clean  ground,  the  latter  end 
of  August  or  early  in  September. 

Some  gardeners  sow  the  seed  in  beds  four  or  five  feet 
wide,  with  paths  between  each  bed,  just  sufficient  to  admit 
of  room  for  hand-weeding  ;  but  it  will  vegetate  more  freely 
if  sown  in  drills  half  an  inch  deep,  provided  it  be  carefully 
covered.  The  drills  may  be  about  six  inches  apart,  or  just 
sufficient  to  admit  a  small  hoe  to  work  between  the  rows ; 
for  if  the  plants  ai"e  not  cleared  of  all  weeds  while  young, 
they  will  be  more  plague  than  profit. 

Fetticus  must  be  covered  up  with  straw  at  the  approach 
of  severe  weather,  to  preserve  it  in  good  condition  for  use  in 
the  early  part  of  the  ensuing  spring,  as  that  is  the  season 
which  most  amply  remunerates  the  cultivator. 

The  seed  of  Fetticus  is  small  and  light,  but  it  will  admit 
of  being  sown  thick,  say  at  the  rate  of  from  four  to  six 
pounds  to  an  acre  of  land. 


64  CRESS. 

CRESS. 
Cresson.     Lapidium  sativum. 

VARIETIES. 

Curled,  or  Peppergrass.  I  Broad-leaved  Garden. 

Cress  is  a  small  salad  herb,  and  is  generally  used  with 
Lettuce,  White  Mustard,  Rape,  Chervul,  &c.  It  may  be 
sown  very  thick  in  little  drills,  as  should  salad  seed  in  gene- 
ral, and  cut  before  it  comes  into  rough  leaf.  A  small  quan- 
tity in  the  salad  season,  which  is  spring  and  autumn,  may  be 
sown  every  week  in  rich  ground,  free  from  weeds. 


CRESS,  (Water.) 

Cresson  de  fontaine.     Sisymbyium  7iasturthim. 

The  Water  Cress  is  a  creeping,  amphibious  perennial,  and 
is  grown  very  extensively  for  the  London  Markets.  Loudon 
says,  in  his  Encyclopoedia  of  Gardening,  that  "  The  most 
suitable  description  of  water  is  a  clear  stream,  not  more  than 
an  inch  and  a  half  deep,  running  over  sand  or  gravel ;  the 
least  favourable,  deep,  still  water,  or  a  muddy  bottom.  It  is 
highly  advantageous  to  make  the  plantations  in  newly-risen 
spring  water,  as  the  plants  do  not  only  thrive  better  in  it,  but, 
inconsequence  of  its  being  rarely  frozen,  they  generally  con- 
tinue in  vegetation,  and  in  a  good  state  for  gathering,  through 
the  whole  winter  season.  The  plants  are  disposed  in  rows 
parallel  with  the  course  of  the  stream,  about  eighteen  inches 
apart.  When  these  plants  begin  to  groAv  in  water  one  inch 
and  a  half  deep,  they  soon  check  the  current  so  as  to  raise 
the  water  to  the  height  of  three  inches  above  the  plants, 
which  is  considered  the  most  favourable  circumstance  in 
which  they  can  be  placed.  It  is  absolutely  necessary  to  have 
a  constant  current,  as  where  there  is  any  obstruction  to  the 
stream,  the  plants  cease  to  thrive.  After  they  have  been  cut 
about  three  times,  they  begin  to  stock,  and  then  the  oftener 
they  are  cut  the  better. 


CUCUMBER.  65 

CUCUMBER. 
CoNcoMBRE.      Ciicuinis  saiivus,  elc. 

VARIETIES. 


Early  Frame. 
Early  (ircen  Cluster. 
Early  Green  Table. 
Long  Prickly. 
Short  Prickly. 


Long  Green. 
Extra  Long  Green. 
L(ing  White  Turkey. 
White  Spined. 
West  India,  or  Gherkin. 


The  Cucumis  saliviis,  or  common  Cucumber,  is  a  native  of 
the  East  Indies,  and  of  nearly  as  great  antiquity  as  the  vine. 
It  was  introduced  into  England  in  1573,  and  is  extensively 
cultivated  in  forcing  frames,  and  in  the  open  air.  In  March, 
they  are  sold  in  the  London  Markets,  for  a  guinea  a  dozen ; 
and  in  August  and  September  for  one  penny  per  dozen. 

As  Cucumbers  are  much  used  in  New- York,  it  should  be 
an  object  with  gardeners  to  have  them  in  the  market  early  ; 
directions  for  raising  them  out  of  the  ordinary  season,  are 
therefore  given  in  a  future  page,  under  the  liead  Forcing 
Vegetables ;  to  which  the  reader  is  referred.  Cucumbers 
may  be  raised  in  the  open  ground  by  planting  seed  the  first 
week  of  May,  in  hills  four  feet  apart ;  or  if  the  ground  be 
light,  basins  formed  an  inch  below  the  level  of  the  surface 
would  be  beneficial.*  Previous  to  planting,  the  ground  should 
be  prepared  by  incorporating  a  shovelful  of  rotten  dung  with 
the  earth  in  each  hill,  after  which  four  or  five  seed  may  be 
planted  half  an  inch  deep.  One  ounce  of  good  seed  is  suf- 
ficient for  two  hundred  hills  and  upward. 

Cucumbers  are  liable  to  be  attacked  by  a  yellow  fly,  which 
sometimes  devours  young  plants ;  these  and  other  insects 
may  be  killed  by  sowing  tobacco  dust,  soot,  powdered  char- 

•  The  term  hill  is  frequently  made  use  of  by  gardeners  and  farmers,  to 
designate  a  situation  allotted  for  a  given  number  of  seed,  whereas,  such 
seed  are  more  frequently  deposited  below  the  level  of  the  surface  than 
above  it ;  yet,  as  the  plants  progress  in  growth,  hills  are  frequently  formed 
around  them,  which  makes  the  term  applicable,  or  rather  reconciles  the 
apparent  conU-adiction. 

6* 


66  EGG-PLANT. 

coal,  and  the  like,  round  about  the  vines  when  they  first 
come  up,  or  by  applying  the  liquid  recommended  in  page 
19  of  the  General  Remarks.  After  this  is  done,  the  plants 
may  be  thinned  to  two  or  three  in  a  hill,  and  the  ground 
carefully  hoed,  drawing  a  little  earth  round  them  at  the  same 
time.  The  vines  should  be  kept  free  from  weeds,  and  if  the 
weather  proves  dry,  a  gentle  watering  now  and  then,  given 
in  the  evening,  will  be  of  considerable  scu-vice. 

Picklers  may  be  raised  by  planting  the  seed  at  any  time 
in  July.  When  the  vines  begin  to  bear,  they  should  be  looked 
over,  and  the  fruit  gathered  as  soon  as  it  becomes  fit,  as  the 
plant  will  cease  to  bear  much  if  the  fruit  be  jiermitted  to  get 
yellow. 


CHIVES,  OR  GIVES. 

CiVETTE.     Allium  schosnoprasum. 

This  is  a  small  species  of  Onion,  and  grows  in  large  tufts  ; 
it  is  propagated  by  offsets  from  the  roots,  and  may  be 
planted  either  in  spring  or  autumn,  in  rows  ten  or  twelve 
inches  apart,  and  the  bulbs  three  or  four  inches  apart  in  the 
rows  ;  they  wi'l  soon  take  root,  and  increase  very  fast,  form- 
ing large  bunches  of  bulbs.  They  make  handsome  edging 
for  beds  or  borders. 


EGG-PLANT. 
Melongene  au  aubergine.     Solanum  melongena. 

VAKIETIES 
Purple,  for  cooking.  I  White,  for  ornament. 

The  seed  of  the  Purple  Egg-plant  may  be  sown  in  a  hot- 
bed about  the  first  of  March ;  and  the  sashes  must  be  kept 
down  close  until  the  plants  come  up,  after  which  a  little  air 


EGG-PLANT.  67 

may  be  given  in  the  heat  of  the  day*  Toward  the  middle 
of  May,  if  the  weather  be  warm  and  settled,  the  plants 
should  be  set  out  from  twenty-four  to  thirty  inches  apart,  in 
a  rich,  warm  piece  of  ground;  and  if  kept  clean,  and  a  little 
earth  be  drawn  up  to  their  stems  when  about  a  foot  high, 
tliey  will  produce  plenty  of  fruit. 

Plants  of  tlie  white  variety  may  be  rlased  in  the  same  man- 
ner, and  transplanted  into  pots  in  INIay;  or  if  some  of  the 
seed  be  sown  in  a  warm  situation  the  first  week  in  May,  these 
mav  come  to  perfection  in  the  course  of  the  summer.  This 
variety,  though  generally  cultivated  for  ornament,  is  good 
when  cooked. 

As  Egg  plants  will  not  gi'ow  in  the  open  gi'ound  until  set- 
tled warm  weather,  and  are  apt  to  perish  from  being  trans- 
planted too  early,  the  gardener  should  be  provided  with  small 
pots,  in  order  that  the  plants  may  be  transplanted  therein 
early  in  May,  and  placed  in  a  frame,  there  to  remain  until 
the  first  week  in  June,  at  which  time,  if  they  are  turned  out 
and  planted,  with  the  balls  of  earth  entire,  they  will  soon  take 
root  and  grow  freely. 

Select  the  fruit  when  at  maturity;  cut  it  into  slices,  and 
parboil  it  in  a  stewpan ;  when  softened,  drain  off"  the  water ; 
it  may  then  be  fried  in  batter  made  with  wheaten  flour  and 
an  egg,  or  in  fresh  butter  with  bread  grated  fine  and  sea- 
soned before  it  is  put  in  the  pan,  with  pepper,  salt,  thyme, 
and  such  other  herbs  as  may  best  suit  the  palate.  Some  use 
Marjoram,  Summer  Savory,  Parsley,  Onion,  &c. 


•  E?g-plant  seed  will  not  vegetate  freely  without  substantial  heat ;  but  with 
proper  manaijement,  upward  of  four  tiiousand  plants  may  be  raised  from 
an  ounce  of  seed.  If  these  plants  get  the  least  chilled  in  the  earlier  stages 
of  growth,  they  seldom  recover  ;  it  is,  therefore,  important  that  the  frame 
allotted  for  them  be  placed  over  a  well-regulated  hot-bed,  and  partitioned 
Oil,  so  that  the  sash  can  be  kept  down  over  the  plants  in  cool  weather. 

Some  gardeners  raise  Egg-plants  in  the  same  frame  with  Cabbage,  and 
such  other  half-hardy  plants  as  require  air  every  mild  day  ;  by  such  man- 
agement, one  or  the  other  must  suffer  for  want  of  suitable  aliment,  heat 
being  the  principal  food  of  tender  plants,  and  air  that  of  the  more  hardy 
species 


68  ENDIVE,    OR    SUCCORY.  * 

ENDIVE,  OR  SUCCORY. 
Chicoree  des  jardins.     Cichorium  endiva,  etc. 

VARIETIES. 
Green  Curled.  i  Golden  Yellow. 

White  Curled.  [  ]' road-leaved,  or  Scarolle. 

The  Cichorium  endiva  is  a  native  of  China  and  Japan,  and  is 
much  used  in  salads  and  stews,  and  as  a  garaish  for  the  table. 

The  proper  kind  of  seed  for  early  sowing  is  the  Green 
Curled.  A  small  quantity  of  this  may  be  sown  at  different 
times  in  April  and  May,  by  those  who  would  have  it  early. 
These  crops  will  be  very  apt  to  run  to  seed  ;  for  this  reason, 
it  will  be  best  to  delay  the  sowing  of  seed  for  general  crops 
until  June,  or  July.  If  a  small  quantity  of  each  esteemed 
variety  be  sown  two  or  three  times  in  these  months,  they 
will  produce  a  plentiful  supply  for  use  in  Autumn  and  the 
early  part  of  Winter.  One  ounce  of  good  Endive  seed  will 
produce  about  five  thousand  plants. 

When  the  plants  are  three  or  four  inches  high,  they  should 
be  transplanted  into  good  ground,  at  the  distance  of  a  foot 
from  each  other,  and  immediately  watered ;  or  if  they  are 
set  out  in  cloudy  or  wet  weather,  it  will  save  this  trouble. 
The  plants  will  requrie  to  be  hoed  and  attended  to  in  the 
same  manner  as  Lettuce,  until  grown  to  a  moderate  size,  when 
they  must  be  blanched.  Select  the  large  and  full-hearted 
plants,  and  with  bass  or  other  strings,  tie  them  a  little  above 
the  middle,  not  too  tight,  previously  gathering  up  the  leaves 
regularly  in  the  hand.  This  must  be  done  when  the  leaves 
are  very  dry,  otherwise  the  plants  will  rot.  The  Cichoyinin 
intyhus  grows  spontaneuosly  in  many  parts  of  Europe  and 
America.  In  France  it  is  much  cultivated  ;  the  tops  of  the 
plants  are  considered  profitable  for  cattle,  and  the  roots  are 
taken  up  in  Autumn,  and  dried.  The  aromatic  and  volatile 
qualities  of  coffee  are,  by  the  combination  of  this  root,  ren- 
dered more  mellow  and  full  upon  the  palate,  and  its  fragrance 
greatly  increased,  producing  an  agreeable  tonic,  and  most 
exhilaratin":  beverage. 


HORSE-RADISH.  69 

Sow  the  seed  in  April  in  drills  half  an  inch  deep,  and  about 
eighteen  inches  apart ;  thin  out  the  plants  to  six  or  eight 
inches  in  the  row.  The  plant  produces  beautiful  blue  flowers, 
and  is  worthy  of  a  place  in  the  flower  garden.  The  roots  when 
dried,  roasted  as  coffee,  and  ground,  may  be  mixed  in  the 
proportion  of  two  ounces  of  the  powder  to  a  pound  of  coffee. 


HORSE-RADISH. 
Raifort.     Cochlearia  annoracia. 

This  plant  is  propagated  by  cuttings  from  the  root,  either 
cut  from  the  top  about  two  inches  long,  or  by  offsets,  or 
otherwise  useless  parts,  from  the  sides  of  the  main  root,  re- 
taining the  crowns  or  top  shoots  in  as  many  parts  as  possible. 
These  should  be  planted  as  early  in  the  spring  as  practicable, 
in  rows  two  feet  ajiart,  and  six  or  eight  inches  from  each 
other  in  the  rows. 

Select  for  the  bed  a  good  depth  of  soil,  and  such  as  will 
retain  moisture,  manure  it  with  well-rotted  dung,  plough  or 
dig  it  deep,  and  with  a  drilling  machine  or  other  convenient 
implement,  draw  drills  a  foot  apart ;  then  plant  with  a  dibble, 
cuttings  as  above  described,  in  every  alternate  drill,  from  two 
to  three  inches  deep.  The  intermediate  drills  may  be  planted 
with  Beet  or  CaiTot  seed,  or  that  of  any  other  root,  but  Tur- 
nip Beets  are  the  most  suitable  to  cultivate  between  the  rows, 
as  they  will  grow  quick,  and  can  be  pulled  out  without  dis- 
turbing the  Horse-radish. 

The  Beets  must  of  course  be  thinned  out  while  young,  and 
kept  cultivated  by  hoeing  between  the  rows,  which  will  also 
benefit  the  Horse-radish.  After  the  Beets  are  pulled,  hoe 
the  ground  again,  and  keep  it  clear  of  weeds,  by  which 
method  the  bed  may  be  cleared  every  year. 

Some  cultivate  Horse-radish  in  a  permanent  bed,  in  which 
case,  if,  in  taking  up  the  roots,  some  offsets  be  left  in  the 
ground,  they  will  produce  a  successive  supply  for  future  years. 


70  JERUSALEM    ARTICHOKE, 

INDIAN  CORN. 

Mais.     Zea  mayz. 

VARIETIES. 

Early  Button.  Cobbet's  Early  Normandy. 

Early  Tuscarora.  Southern  Horsetooth. 

Early  Canadian.  Early  Golden  Sioux. 

Sweet,  or  Sugar.  Mottled  and  Curious  Pearl. 

The  different  varieties  of  early  Corn  intended  for  boiling 
when  young,  or  others  as  curiosities,  may  be  planted  in  the 
garden  the  last  week  in  April,  or  early  in  May,  in  hills  four 
feet  apart,  or  in  drills.  If  some  of  each  esteemed  variety  be 
planted  in  separate  beds  at  the  same  time,  they  will  come  in 
for  the  table  one  after  the  other  in  regular  succession.  After 
this,  if  any  particular  variety  be  preferred,  it  may  be  planted 
at  different  times  in  the  month  of  May  and  June.  If  the 
ground  be  poor,  mix  a  shovelful  of  old  manure  with  the 
earth  in  each  hill  before  the  seed  are  planted,  and  after  the 
plants  are  up  strong,  scatter  a  tea-cup  full  of  wood  ashes 
around  each  hill.  This,  with  attentive  hoeins:  and  hilling-, 
will  cause  it  to  produce  ears  early.  Deep  digging  or  plough- 
ing between  the  hills  is  very  beneficial  when  the  corn  is  about 
eighteen  inches  high. 


JERUSALEM  ARTICHOKE. 

PoMME  DE  TERRE.     Heliantlius  iiiherosom. 

This  plant  is  a  native  of  America.  The  tubers  of  the 
root,  which  are  generally  abundant,  were,  before  Potatoes 
became  improved  by  cultivation,  in  great  esteem,  and  are 
yet  considered  a  fine  flavoured  and  nutritious  food,  when 
boiled  and  mashed  with  butter.  They  may  be  easily  propa- 
gated by  cutting  the  roots  into  sets,  with  two  eyes  in  each, 
and  planting  them  in  the  same  manner  as  Potatoes,  in  March 
and  April.     To  have  them  in  perfection,  they  should  be  hoed 


LEEK.  71 

frequently,  and  the  ground  kept  loose  around  tliem.  In  dig- 
ging them  for  use,  care  should  be  taken  to  gather  them  out 
clean,  as  the  least  particle  left  will  grow  the  year  following, 
and  encumber  the  gi'ound,  without  producing  a  crop  worth 
Btandino^. 


LEEK. 
PoiRREAU.     Jillium  porrum. 

VARIETIES. 

Scotch,  or  Flag.  |  Large  London. 

This  is  a  wholesome  and  useful  herb,  and  is  so  hardy  as 
to  endure  the  extremes  of  heat  and  cold  without  injury.  The 
seed  may  be  sown  in  March,  or  early  in  April,  in  a  bed  of 
rich  earth,  in  drills  about  an  inch  deep,  and  a  sufficient  dis- 
tance apart  to  admit  of  a  small  hoe  being  worked  between 
the  rows,  allowing  one  ounce  of  seed  for  every  three  thou- 
sand plants  that  may  be  required. 

If  the  ground  be  kept  loose  and  clean  around  the  plants, 
they  will  be  fit  to  transplant  in  Jvme,  or  early  in  July,  and 
should  be  set  out  in  good  ground,  in  rows  twelve  inches 
asunder,  and  the  plants  five  or  six  inches  apart  in  the  rows. 
They  will  gro\v  well  in  a  warm  border,  which  at  this  season 
is  useless  for  many  kinds  of  vegetables.  Aftei  the  plants  have 
taken  root,  they  should  be  frequently  hoed,  and  kept  free 
from  weeds. 

Those  who  wish  to  have  Leeks  blanched,  may  plant  them 
in  trenches  three  or  four  inches  deep,  and  as  the  plants  in- 
crease in  growth,  the  earth  should  be  drawn  by  a  hoe  into 
the  trenches. 


72  LETTUCE 

LETTUCE 

Laitue.     Lacluca  saiiva  crispa. 


VARIETIES. 


Large  Green  Head. 
Dutch,  or  Cabbage. 
Tennis  Ball,  or  Rose. 
Madeira,  or  Passion. 
Large  Green  Curled. 
Loco  Foco. 


Early  Silesia. 
Imperial,  or  Sugar  Loaf. 
Pale  Green,  or  Butter. 
Grand  Admiral. 
Large  Summer  Silesia. 
Paris  Loaf  Coss. 


It  would  be  easy  to  furnish  a  more  extensive  catalogue  of 
Lettuce,  as  the  varieties  are  numerous  ;  but  as  this  is  one  of 
those  kinds  of  vegetables  that  can  only  be  raised  in  perfec- 
tion during  mild  and  temperate  weather,  it  is  needless  for 
the  gardener  to  plant  any  in  the  open  ground,  but  such  as 
have  been  tested,  and  found  to  stand  a  tolerable  degree  of 
warm  weather,  which  generally  prevails  in  May  and  June, 
and  consequently  cuts  short  the  salad  season.  Those  who 
nave  been  accustomed  to  raise  head  Lettuce  in  any  quantity, 
know  the  trouble  of  preparing  the  ground  and  planting,  and 
the  loss  they  would  sustain  if  several  thousand  plants  should 
run  to  seed  just  as  they  appeared  to  be  perfecting  for  market. 
As  this  is  often  the  case,  even  with  the  very-best  attention,  I 
would  caution  gardeners  to  test  such  plants  as  they  are  not 
acquianted  with,  before  they  set  out  any  quantity  with  a  view 
to  their  heading.* 

The  six  varieties  inserted  in  the  first  column  of  our  cata- 


*  It  may  be  necessary  here  to  remind  the  gardener,  that  moisture  is  the 
most  essential  nutriment  of  Lettuce,  and  that  the  very  best  varieties  may- 
run  to  seed  without  forming  heads,  in  the  event  of  extreme  warm  weather. 
Those  who  put  off  the  sowing  of  seed  until  May  and  June,  instead  of 
sowing  it  in  ]\Iarch  and  April,  as  directed,  may  procure  head  Lettuce  from 
Bome  of  their  strongest  plants,  by  transplanting  them  into  rich  ground  as 
soon  as  they  are  an  inch  or  two  in  height,  and  the  remainder,  if  left  thin  in 
the  beds,  may  produce  small  heads,  by  stirring  the  earth  around  them  with 
a  small  hoe,  or  weeding  hook  ;  these  are  as  good  for  family  use  as  larger 
heads,  and  those  persons  who  are  fond  of  Lettuce  may  raise  such  through- 
out the  summer ;  but  market  gardeners  seldom  attempt  it,  unless  they 
have  a  tract  of  moist,  loamy  soil,  peculiarly  adapted  to  the  growth  of  head 
Lettuce,  in  any  thing  like  a  propitious  season. 


LETTUCE.  73 

logue  have  been  known  to  stand  our  winters,  and  may  be 
Bown  from  the  first  to  the  middle  of  September,  in  rich 
ground,  free  from  weeds ;  they  answer  very  well  when  sown 
with  Spinach,  and  should  be  covered  with  straw  at  the  ap- 
proach of  severe  weather.  These  plants,  if  transplanted  into 
warm  borders,  or  in  the  open  ground,  as  early  in  March  as 
the  weather  will  permit,  will  produce  fine  heads  early  in  the 
month  of  ]May. 

The  best  of  the  tender  kinds  of  Lettuce  should  be  sown  in 
moderate  hot-beds  early  in  March,  and  if  transplanted  into 
good  ground  by  the  middle  of  April,  will  produce  their  heads 
before  the  approach  of  warm  weather.  Such  kinds  as  are 
known  to  produce  heads  in  hot  weather,  and  also  such  as  are 
intended  to  be  cut  as  a  small  salad  while  young,  may  be  sown 
in  waiTTi  borders  in  March  and  April ;  but  those  designed  for 
heading  should  be  transplanted  as  soon  as  they  are  an  inch 
or  two  in  height,  and  kept  in  a  growing  state  by  frequent 
hoeing,  or  they  may  run  up  to  seed  as  the  season  advances. 
If  it  be  an  object  with  the  gardener  to  have  good  strong 
Lettuce  plants  for  transplanting,  the  seed  should  be  sown 
very  thin.  One  ounce  of  good  seed  is  sufficient  for  a  border 
of  six  feet  in  width  by  eighteen  feet  in  length,  and  will  pro- 
duce from  ten  to  twelve  thousand  plants. 

All  kinds  of  Lettuce  intended  for  heading  should  be  plant- 
ed in  good  ground,  twelve  inches  distant  from  each  other 
every  way ;  the  plants  should  be  carefully  hoed  every  othei 
week  during  their  growth ;  the  first  hoeing  should  be  done 
in  about  two  weeks  after  they  are  transplanted. 

The  Coss  Lettuce  requires  to  be  blanched ;  this  is  done 
by  gathering  up  the  leaves  of  the  plants  and  tying  bass  round 
them,  when  grown  to  perfection. 

If  Head  Lettuce  be  required  at  other  seasons  than  the 
spring,  it  may  be  obtained  in  autumn  by  sowing  seed  in  Au- 
gust, or  in  the  winter  by  means  of  garden  frames  and  glazed 
sashes.     [See  article  on  Forcing  Vegetables.] 


74  MELON. 

MELON. 
Melon.     Cxicumis  melo. 


Green-fleshed  Citron. 
Murray's  Pineapple. 
Green-fleshed  Persian. 
Green-fleshed  Nutmeg 


VARIETIES. 

Large  Yellow  Canteleupe. 
Pomegranate,  or  Musk  Scented. 
Skillman's  Fine  Netted. 
Snake,  (curious.) 


The  Melon  is  an  exotic  plant,  growing  wild  in  Asia.  It 
is  cultivated  in  all  the  warm  countries  of  Europe,  and  also 
in  Africa  and  America,  where  its  salubrious  and  cooling  fruit 
is  generally  esteemed. 

For  the  varieties  of  the  Musk  or  Canteleupe  Melons,  pre- 
pare a  piece  of  rich  ground  early  in  May ;  manure  it  and 
give  it  a  good  digging ;  then  mark  it  out  into  squares  of  six 
feet  every  way ;  at  the  angle  of  each  square,  dig  a  hole 
twelve  inches  deep  and  eighteen  over,  into  which  put  about 
six  inches  deep  of  old  rotten  dung ;  throw  thereon  about  four 
inches  of  earth,  and  mix  the  dung  and  earth  well  with  the 
spade  ;  after  which  draw  more  earth  over  the  mixture,  so  as 
to  form  a  circular  hill  about  a  foot  broad  at  top.  (For  a  de- 
finition of  the  term  "  hill,"  see  article  Cucumber.)  When 
your  hills  are  all  prepared,  plant  in  each,  toward  the  centre, 
six  or  eight  grains  of  seed,  distant  two  inches  from  each 
other,  and  cover  them  about  half  an  inch  deep.  One  ounce 
of  good  Melon  seed  will  plant  about  one  hundred  and  tv/enty 
hills. 

Wlien  the  plants  are  in  a  state  of  forwardness,  producing 
their  rough  leaves,  they  must  be  thinned  to  two  or  three  in 
each  hill ;  draw  earth  from  time  to  time  round  the  hills,  and 
about  the  roots  of  the  plants.  As  soon  as  the  plants  have 
spread  into  branches,  stop  them  by  pinching  off  the  top  of 
the  first  runner  bud ;  this  will  strengthen  the  plants,  and  pro- 
mote their  perfecting  the  fruit  early ;  after  which  keep  the 
ground  perfectly  free  from  weeds  by  frequent  hoeing. 

There  are  many  varieties  of  the  Melon,  highly  esteemed 


WATER    MELON.  75 

in  Europe,  which  do  not  succeed  in  this  country ;  the  gar- 
dener should,  therefore,  plant  only  such  as  have  been  tested 
and  found  to  produce  good  fruit  here,  or  our  superior  old 
sorts  may  become  degenerate.  After  a  judicious  selection 
is  made,  if  caution  be  not  used  to  plant  the  different  sorts 
remote  from  each  other,  and  from  Cucumbers,  Squashes,  and 
Gourds,  degeneracy  will  infallibly  be  the  consequence.  To 
prevent  the  ravages  of  flies,  &c.,  see  General  Remarks,  pages 
19  and  20. 


WATER  MELON. 
Melon  d'eau.     Cncurbiia  citrullus. 

VARIETIES. 

New  Jersey.  I  Goodwin's  Imperial. 

Carolina.  I  Citron,  for  preserves. 

The  "Water  Melon,  though  by  some  considered  a  species 
of  the  former,  is  a  distinct  genus  of  exotic  plants.  They 
afford  a  very  refreshing  article  of  luxury  in  our  warm  sum- 
mers. Dr.  Pallas, ,  in  the  account  of  his  journey  to  the 
southei-n  provinces  of  Russia,  in  1793  and  '94,  speaking  of  a 
colony  of  Moravians  in  Sarepta,  or  Sapa,  on  the  River  Volga, 
says,  "  The  ingenious  inhabitants  of  this  town  brew  a  kind 
of  beer  from  their  very  abundant  and  cheap  Water  Melons, 
with  the  addition  of  Hops ;  they  also  prepare  a  conserve  or 
marmalade  from  this  fruit,  which  is  a  good  substitute  for 
syrup  or  treacle." 

In  order  to  have  Water  Melons  in  perfection,  you  must 
fix  upon  a  piece  of  very  rich  light  soil ;  prepare,  plant  and 
manage  it  in  every  respect  as  is  directed  for  Musk  Melon, 
only,  let  the  hills  be  seven  or  eight  feet  distant  every  way. 
One  ounce  of  seed  \vill  plant  from  forty  to  fifty  hills. 


76  NASTURTIUM,  OR  STURTION. 

MUSTARD. 
MouTARDE.     Sinapis. 

VARIETIES. 
White.  I  Black. 

The  Jilba,  or  ^Vliite  Mustard,  grows  spontaneously  in  the 
fields  of  England ;  it  is  also  cultivated  as  a  small  salad,  as  well 
as  for  seed.  The  seed  yields  from  every  hundred  pounds, 
from  thirty-three  to  thirty-six  pounds  of  sweet  mild  oil. 

White  Mustard  Seed  is  much  used  as  a  medicine,  and  per- 
sons subject  to  disordered  stomachs  often  derive  great  benefit 
by  taking  a  S2:)oonful  of  the  dry  seed,  two  or  three  times  a  day 
Some  use  it  in  pickles,  to  which  it  imparts  an  agi'eeable  fla- 
vour, and  renders  Cucumbers  in  particular  more  salutary. 
The  .V/o-r«  or  Common  Mustard,  is  also  a  native  of  England. 
The  condiment  called  Mustard,  and  in  daily  use  at  our  table 
is  prepared  from  the  seed  of  this  species. 

The  seed,  of  each  variety,  may  be  sown  in  clean  rich 
ground  in  April  and  May;  and  for  a  fall  salad  in  September 
in  shallow  drills. 


NASTURTIUM,  OR  STURTION. 
Capucine.     Tropaolum. 

This  is  an  annual  plant,  a  native  of  Peru,  and  is  highly 
deserving  of  cultivation  for  the  sake  of  its  brilliant  orange 
and  crimson  coloured  flower,  as  well  as  for  the  berries, 
which,  if  gathered  while  green  and  pickled  in  vinegar,  make 
a  good  substiute  for  capers,  and  are  used  in  melted  butter, 
with  boiled  mutton,  &c. 

The  seed  should  be  sown  in  April,  or  early  in  May,  in 
drills  about  an  inch  deep,  near  fences  or  pales ;  or  trellises 
should  be  constructed,  on  which  they  can  climb  and  have 
support,  for  they  will  always  be  more  productive  in  this  way 
than  when  suffered  to  trail  on  the  ground. 


ONION.  77 

OKRA. 
GoMBO.     Hibisciis  esculeiitus. 

The  green  capsules  of  tliis  plant  are  used  in  soups,  stews, 
&c.,  to  which  they  impart  a  rich  flavour,  and  are  considered 
nutritious.  Its  ripe  seed,  if  burned  and  ground  like  coffee, 
can  scarcely  be  distinguished  therefrom. 

The  seed  should  be  planted  in  good  rich  ground,  the  first 
or  second  week  in  May,  if  settled  warm  weather,  but  not 
otherwise,  as  it  is  a  very  tender  vegetable.  Draw  diills  about 
an  inch  deep,  and  three  or  four  feet  asunder,  into  which  drop 
the  seed  at  the  distance  of  six  or  eight  inches  from  each 
other,  or  rather  drop  two  or  three  in  each  place,  lest  the  one 
should  not  grow  and  cover  them  nearly  an  inch  deep.  As  the 
plants  advance  in  growth,  thin  them  out,  earth  them  up  two 
or  three  times,  and  they  will  produce  abundantly. 


ONION. 
OiGNON.     Allium  cepa,  etc.  cte. 


VARIETIES. 


New  England  White. 

Large  Red. 

Yellow,  or  Silver  Skinned. 


Yellow  Dutch. 
Strasburgh,  or  Flanders. 
Madeira. 


Op  the  several  vaiieties  of  Onions,  the  Yellow  or  Silver 
Skinned,  and  Large  Red,  are  the  best  for  a  general  crop.  The 
bulbs  are  handsome,  of  firm  growth,  and  keep  well  through 
the  winter.  The  New  England  White  are  handsome  for  the 
table,  and  very  suitable  for  pickling,  as  well  as  to  pull  while 
young,  and  generally  prove  a  very  profitable  crop. 

Previous  to  sowing  Onion  seed  for  a  general  crop,  the 
ground  should  be  well  prepared  by  digging  in  some  of  the 
oldest  and  strongest  manure  that  can  be  got.  The  earlier 
this  be  done  in  the  spring,  the  better,  and  the  planting  should 


78  ONION. 

not  be  delayed  longer  tban  the  middle  of  April.  The  seed 
may  be  sown  moderately  thick,  in  drills  one  inch  deep  and 
twelve  inches  apart.* 

Those  who  cultivate  Onions  for  the  sake  of  their  bulbs, 
may  use  at  the  rate  of  four  or  five  pounds  of  seed  per  acre. 

As  market  gardeners,  in  the  vicinity  of  large  cities,  find  it 
most  profitable  to  pull  a  great  proportion  of  their  Onions 
while  young,  they  generally  require  at  the  rate  of  from  eigli-t 
to  ten  pounds  of  seed  to  an  acre  of  land. 

When  the  plants  are  up  strong,  they  should  be  hoed.  Those 
beds  that  are  to  stand  for  ripening,  should  be  thinned  out  while 
young,  to  the  distance  of  two  or  three  inches  from  each  other. 
If  a  few  should  be  required  for  use  after  this,  those  can  be 
taken  which  incline  more  to  tops  than  roots ;  and  if  the  beds 
be  frequently  looked  over,  and  the  small  and  stalky  plants 
taken  away  where  they  stand  thickest,  the  remaining  bulbs 
will  grow  to  a  larger  size.  The  plants  should  be  hoed  at  least 
three  times  in  the  early  part  of  their  gi'owth;  but  if  the  season 
prove  damp,  and  weeds  vegetate  luxuriantly,  they  must  be 
removed  by  the  hand,  because  after  the  Onions  have  begun  to 
bulb,  it  would  injure  them  to  stir  them  with  a  hoe. 

When  the  greenness  is  gone  out  of  the  tops  of  Onions,  it 
is  time  to  take  them  up ;  for  from  this  time  the  fibious  roots 
decay.  After  they  are  pulled,  they  should  be  laid  out  to  dry, 
and  when  dry,  removed  to  a  place  of  shelter. 

The  small  Onions  may  be  planted  in  the  follo^^^ng  spring. 
Even  an  Onion  which  is  partly  rotten  will  produce  good  bulbs, 
if  the  seed  stems  be  taken  off  as  soon  as  they  appear. 

•  Onion  seed  may  be  sown  at  any  time  from  March  to  September,  but 
those  only  can  be  depended  upon  for  ripening,  which  are  sown  in  the  first 
and  second  spring  months.  It  is  a  singular  fact,  that  Onions  will  not  ripen 
later  than  August  or  the  early  part  of  September,  however  warm  the 
weather  may  be  ;  they  can,  however,  be  preserved  in  the  place  where  they 
grow,  by  spreading  some  short  dung  over  them  in  autumn,  just  sufficient 
to  prevent  their  purging  out  of  the  ground  in  winter.  Onions  thus  pre- 
served, often  prove  more  profitable  to  market  gardeners  in  the  spring,  than 
crops  which  ripen  ;  because  ripe  Onions  are  then  scarce,  and  green  ones 
prove  a  good  substitute  for  Shallots,  Welsh  Onions,  Leeks,  &c 


PARSLEY.  79 

The  Allium  fistulosmn,  or  Welsli  Onion,  is  cultivated  for 
spring  salad ;  it  forms  no  bulbs,  but  is  very  hardy.  If  tho 
seed  be  sown  early  in  September  in  rich  ground,  although 
the  tops  may  die  down  in  the  winter,  yet  the  roots  will  con- 
tinue sound,  and  put  up  new  leaves  early  in  the  spring. 

The  Alliimi  cepa,  or  common  White  and  Red  Onions,  are 
most  generally  cultivated  by  market  gardeners  as  a  substitute 
for  the  Jllliuni  fislulosum ;  they  sow  the  seed  in  the  spring 
and  autumn  months,  the  product  of  which  is  pulled  and  sent 
to  the  market  while  young,  and  generally  meets  with  a  ready 
sale. 

The  JilUum  proliferum,  or  Tree  Onion,  is  2?ropagated  by 
planting  the  bulbs  in  spring  or  autumn,  either  the  root  bulbs, 
or  those  produced  on  the  top  of  the  stalks ;  the  latter,  if 
planted  in  the  spring,  will  produce  fine  Onions.  These  may 
be  planted  in  rows  with  a  dibble,  the  same  as  Shallots. 

The  Potato  Onion,  Ml'mm  iubevosiun,  does  not  produce 
seed  as  other  Onions,  but  it  increases  by  the  root.  One  sin- 
gle Onion,  slightly  covered,  will  produce  six  or  seven  in  a 
clump,  partly  under  ground. 

The  bulbs  are  generally  planted  in  the  spring,  from  twelve 
to  eighteen  inches  apart,  but  they  will  yield  better  when 
planted  in  autumn,  as  they  will  survive  the  winter  if  slightly 
covered  with  dung,  litter,  or  leaves  of  ti-ees,  &;c. 


PARSLEY. 
Persil.     Jipnim  petroselintim. 

VARIETIES. 
Dwarf  Curled.  I  Single,  or  Common. 

Extra  Curled.  |  Large  Rooted  Hamburg. 

Parsley  is  a  hardy  biennial  plant,  and  grows  wild  in  moist 
climates,  but  has  been  gi-eatly  improved  by  cultivation.  The 
leaves  of  the  Common  Parsley  are  used  as  a  pot  herb,  and 


80  PARSLEY. 

those  of  the  Extra  Curled  kinds  make  a  fine  garnish.  The 
Large  Rooted  are  generally  cooked  for  the  table  in  autumn 
and  winter,  like  Parsnips. 

As  Parsley  seed,  sown  late  in  the  season,  is  apt  to  lay  in 
the  ground  some  time  before  it  vegetates,  and  often  fails  in 
dry  weather,  the  general  crop  should  be  sown  in  a  cool 
situation  by  the  early  part  of  April,  in  drills  an  inch  deep, 
and  one  foot  asunder,  allowing  at  the  rate  of  about  six  or 
seven  pounds  of  seed  to  the  acre,  or  two  ounces  for  every 
tliree  perches  of  land.* 

After  the  plants  are  up,  let  them  be  kept  clean  by  frequent 
hoeing.  The  Large  Rooted  Parsley  should  be  thinned  out 
while  young,  and  managed  the  same  as  CaiTots  and  Parsnips. 

In  order  to  have  Parsley  green  through  the  winter,  the 
old  leaves  should  be  picked  off  in  September.  If  some  of 
tlie  roots  be  taken  up  early  in  November,  and  laid  in  a 
frame,  or  light  cellar,  the  leaves  will  keep  green  a  long  time ; 
tne  remainder  may  be  covered  up  with  straw  in  the  place 
where  it  grows. 

If  Parsley  seed  be  sown  in  frames  in  spring  or  summer, 
it  may  be  pieserved  for  winter  use  -wdthout  the  trouble  of 
removing  it. 

•  It  frequently  happens  that  Parsley  seed  will  remain  in  the  ground 
three  or  four  weeks,  without  showing  any  signs  of  vegetation,  and  in  the 
event  of  extreme  dry  weather,  is  apt  to  decay  for  want  of  its  most  essen- 
tial  aliment — moisture.  A  few  grains  of  Long  Radish  seed,  sown  about 
an  inch  apart  in  each  drill,  are  well  adapted  to  promote  the  growth  of 
Parsley;  because  Radish  seed  being  quick  in  germinating,  will  open  the 
pores  of  the  earth  ;  and  the  plants,  as  they  progress  in  growth,  will  create 
a  shade,  sufficient  to  protect  the  Parsley  from  the  full  rays  of  the  sun. 


PARSNIP.  81 

PARSNIP. 
Panais.     Pasiiiiaca  saliva. 

VARIETIES. 

Long  Guernsey  Cup.  |  Large  Dutch,  or  Common. 

This  is  a  hardy  biennial  plant,  common  in  calcareous 
soils ;  it  has  long  been  an  inmate  of  the  garden,  and  forms  a 
vegetable  dish  in  the  winter,  with  salt  meat,  salted  fish,  &:c. 

Parsnip  seed  may  be  planted  from  the  middle  of  March 
till  the  middle  of  May,  in  drills  one  inch  deep  and  fourteen 
inches  apart ;  and  as  this  vegetable  requires  a  long  season 
to  grow  in,  the  sooner  the  seed  is  planted  the  better.  Pars- 
nips grow  best  in  a  deep  soil,  which  has  been  well  manured 
the  preceding  fall.  Sow  the  seed  thick  along  the  drills,  at  the 
rate  of  five  or  six  pounds  per  acre,  and  rake  them  in  evenly.* 

When  the  plants  are  two  or  three  inches  high,  thin  them 
to  the  distance  of  six  or  eight  inches  in  the  rows.  They 
should  be  kept  free  from  weeds,  by  regular  hoeing  through 
the  summer,  and  in  autumn  they  will  be  fit  for  use  ;  but  they 
improve  in  flavour  after  having  been  frozen,  and  will  enduro 
the  severity  of  a  hard  winter.     See  Calendar  for  November. 

Parsnips  require  from  thirty  to  forty  minutes  boiling,  ac- 
cording to  their  size  and  age.  Some  boil  them  in  water 
seasoned  with  salt,  until  tender ;  but  they  are  better  when 
boiled  with  salt  pork,  and  afterward  mashed  and  fried  in 
butter. 


*  The  Parsnip,  although  when  in  full  growth  it  will  endure  the  extremes 
of  heat  and  cold,  requires  peculiar  management  to  promote  and  preserve 
germination  in  an  early  f^tage  of  culture.  In  order  to  eive  the  seed  a  fair 
chance,  it  should  be  planted  in  ground  susceptible  of  moisture,  and  not 
apt  to  encrust  when  dry.  The  seed  should  be  dropped  thick  along  the 
drills,  and  well  covered,  as  single  or  solitary  plants  are  apt  to  perish,  from 
not  having  sufficient  strength  to  open  the  pores  of  the  earth,  and  in  the 
event  of  droutiht  such  phnts  die  off  prematurely.  If  cultivated  in  light 
ground,  it  should  be  rolled  or  pressed  immediately  after  depositing  the  seed 
therein,  but  this  should  not  be  done  while  the  earth  is  wet.  A  few  grains 
of  Long  Radish  seed,  sown  in  each  drill  as  directed  for  Parsley,  will  also 
prove  beneficial  to  Parsnips. 


68  PEPPER. 

PEPPER. 
PorvRE  ou  piMENT.     Capsicum. 

VARIETIES. 

Grossum,  or  Bell  Pepper.  I  Long  Red,  or  Bird's  Bill. 

Tomato-shaped,  or  Squash.         |  Cherry,  or  West  Indian. 

Sweet  Spanish;  used  as  a  salad,  has  a  very  delicate  taste. 

This  family  of  plants  are  natives  of  the  East  and  West 
Indies ;  some  of  their  capsules,  or  pods,  are  yellow,  and 
others  red,  when  at  maturity ;  they  are  much  used  for  pick- 
ling, and  should  be  gathered  for  that  purpose  before  they  are 
fully  ripe. 

The  seed  of  the  different  kinds  of  Capsicums  may  be  sown 
in  a  hot-bed  in  March,  or  on  a  warm  border,  early  in  May. 
One  ounce  of  seed  will  produce  about  three  thousand  plants. 
When  the  plants  arrive  at  the  height  of  from  one  to  two 
inches,  they  should  be  transplanted  into  good  rich  ground, 
from  eighteen  inches  to  two  feet  distant  from  each  other. 

Those  who  do  not  want  Peppers  early  in  the  season,  may 
sow  seed  in  the  open  ground  in  May,  in  drills  two  feet  asun- 
der, and  half  an  inch  deep.  When  the  plants  are  grown  an 
inch  or  two  high,  thin  them  to  the  distance  of  fifteen  or 
eighteen  inches  in  the  rows.  The  ground  should  be  after- 
ward hoed  deep  round  the  plants,  and  kept  free  from  weeds 
by  repeated  hoeings. 

The  Capsicum  Grossum,  or  Bell  Pepper,  is  perennial,  and 
will  keep  in  perpetual  bearing  in  warm  climates.  In  Eng- 
land this  species  is  considered  superior  to  all  others,  on  ac- 
count of  its  skin  being  thick,  and  also  pulpy  and  tender ;  the 
plants  are  therefore  frequently  preserved  in  hot-houses  dur- 
ing the  winter  and  spring,  and  kept  in  the  open  air  in  settled 
warm  weather. 


PEA. 

PEA. 
Pois,     Pisum  sativum. 


83 


VARIETIES. 


Early  Cedo  Nulli,  or  Race  Horse,  3  ft. 
Early  Frame,  2  to  3  feet. 
Early  Warwick,  :^  feet. 
Early  Washington,  3  feet. 
Early  Charlton,  3  feet. 
Double  Blossom  Frame,  3  feet. 
Bishop's  Early  Dwarf,  2  feet. 
Dwarf  Prolific,  or  Strawberry,  2  feet. 
Dwarf  Spanish,  or  Fan,   1  to  2  feet. 
Early  Nimble  Dick,  3  feet. 
Dwarf  Blue  Imperial,  2  to  3  feet. 
Waterloo  Blue,  4  feet. 

Albany  Field 


Groom's  Dwarf  Blue  Prolific,  4  ft. 
Dwarf  Blue,  Prussian,  2  to  3  feet 
Dwarf  Marrowfat,  3  to  4  feet 
Ladies'  Finger  Marrows,  4  feet 
Matchless  Marrowfat,  6  feet. 
Knight's  Tall  Marrow,  6  feet 
Knight's  Dwarf  Marrow,  3  feet. 
Woodford's  (Jreen  Prolific,  6  feet. 
Large  Grey  Rouncival,  4  feet 
Dwarf  Sugar,  (eatable  pods,)  3  feet 
Tall  Crooked  Pod  Sugar,  G  feet 
French  Bouquet,  or  Sugar,  3  to  4  ft 
in  varieties. 


The  above  list  and  descrijjtion  of  the  most  esteemed  kinds 
of  Pea  are  taken  from  the  catalogue  of  Mr.  G.  C.  Thorbum. 
If  they  are  riglitly  described,  they  will  grow  to  different 
heights,  according  to  soil  and  season.  This  description, 
however,  may  sei'v^e  as  a  guide  for  the  gardener  in  planting. 
The  Dwarf  Pea  require  less  distance  between  row  and  row, 
and  shorter  sticks  than  the  tall  kinds. 

Planting  the  early  kinds  of  Pea  should  commence  as  soon 
in  the  spring  as  the  ground  can  be  brought  into  good  condi- 
tion ;  all  the  other  sorts,  as  well  as  the  early,  will  answer  for 
successive  crops  ;  to  obtain  which,  a  few  of  the  most  esteemed 
varieties  should  be  planted  at  the  same  time  every  two  weeks, 
from  March  until  the  end  of  May.  Persons  desirous  of 
having  Peas  tliroughout  the  summer  and  autumn,  may  plant 
a  few  in  June,  July,  and  August.  In  dry  weather  the  Peas 
should  be  soaked  in  soft  water  five  or  six  hours  before  plant- 
ing, and  if  the  ground  be  very  dry,  it  should  be  watered  in 
the  drills. 

Gardeners  practice  different  modes  of  planting  Peas, 
Some  plant  them  in  ridges,  others  in  drills,  some  in  single 
rows,  others  in  double  ;  some  use  sticks  for  the  dwarf  kinds, 
and  others  not ;  those  who  study  neatness  should,  however, 


84  PEA. 

have  them  all  rodded,  though  the  most  dwarfish  may  do 
without. 

All  the  different  sorts  of  Pea  may  be  planted  in  double  or 
single  rows,  from  four  to  six  feet  apart,  accordmg  to  the 
different  heights  they  may  be  expected  to  grow.  If  two 
drills  be  made  three  inches  deep,  and  about  nine  inches 
apart,  and  the  seed  dropped  along  each  drill  moderately 
thick,  they  will  yield  better  than  single  rows,  and  will  save 
sticks.  When  the  plants  are  two  or  three  inches  high,  let 
them  be  hoed,  drawing,  at  the  same  time,  a  little  earth  up  to 
their  stems ;  when  they  get  to  double  that  height,  let  them 
be  hoed  again  ;  at  the  same  time,  place  a  row  of  sticks  in  the 
middle  of  your  double  rows,  and  a  few  shorter  and  smaller 
ones  on  the  outside  of  each  row,  to  assist  the  Peas  in  climb- 
ing to  their  main  support.  You  must  be  governed  as  to  the 
length  of  your  sticks  by  the  description  of  your  Peas.  There 
is  great  advantage  in  having  sticks  of  a  suitable  height  to 
the  various  kinds  of  Peas  ;  the  sticks  should  not  only  be  suf- 
ficiently tall,  but  also  branchy,  that  the  plants  may  readily 
take  hold ;  and  they  should  be  prepared  fan  fashion,  so  that 
the  side  branches  may  extend  only  along  the  rows.  As  the 
plants  progress  in  gi'owth,  let  them  be  repeatedly  hoed  and 
earthed  up ;  this  will  promote  a  plentiful  bearing. 

One  quart  of  Peas  will  plant  from  one  hundred  and  fifty 
to  two  hundred  feet  of  row,  allowing  the  largest  kinds  to 
average  one  inch  apart,  and  the  smallest,  two  peas  to  the 
inch.  If  cultivated  on  the  field  system,  one  bushel  will  plant 
an  acre  of  land,  and  produce  about  a  hundred  bushels  of 
green  Peas. 

To  have  green  Peas  in  perfection,  they  should  be  gathered 
while  young,  and  cooked  immediately  after  they  are  shelled, 
or  they  will  soon  lose  their  colour  and  sweetness.  Let  the 
water  be  slightly  seasoned  with  salt,  and  boiled ;  then  put  in 
the  Peas  with  a  small  bunch  of  Spear  Mint,  and  ease  the 
cover  so  as  to  let  off  the  steam ;  they  require  about  fifteen 
minutes  boiling,  or  five  minutes  more  or  less,  according  to 


POTATO.  86 

the  age  and  care  bestowed.     Taste  and  try  in  time,  so  as  to 
have  them  done  to  a  nicety. 

The  Sugar  Peas  have  no  inner  tough  film,  or  skin,  to  the 
pods,  Hke  the  common  sorts  ;  they  should  therefore  be  boiled 
w^ithout  shelling,  and  served  up  the  same  as  Kidney  Beans. 


POTATO. 
PoMME  DE  TERRE.     Solaiium  Tuberosum. 

The  Potato  is  known  to  be  a  native  of  the  southern  parts 
of  America,  but  has  been  greatly  improved  by  cultivation. 

The  varieties  being  very  numerous,  it  is  unnecessary  for 
me  to  point  out  any  particular  kinds ;  some  of  the  earliest 
should,  however,  be  planted  first  in  the  spring,  to  produce 
young  Potatoes  in  due  season ;  but  they  are  not  so  suitable 
for  a  full  crop  as  the  late  varieties. 

Potatoes  being  of  such  extensive  utility,  various  expedients 
have  been  contrived  with  a  view  to  find  out  the  best  method 
of  preparing  the  seed.  In  many  parts  of  England,  (where 
Potatoes  equal  to  any  in  the  world  are  raised,)  the  farmers 
seldom  plant  them  whole ;  they  take  the  Potatoes  as  they 
come  to  hand,  and  in  cutting  them,  take  care  to  have  two 
good  eyes  in  each  set ;  the  small  Potatoes  are  deprived  of 
the  sprout  or  nose  end,  as  it  is  generally  considered  that  a 
redundancy  of  eyes  exhausts  the  set,  and  produces  weak 
plants,  which  are  not  calculated  to  yield  a  full  crop.  I  have 
frequently  known  from  five  to  six  hundred  bushels  raised 
from  an  acre  with  small  Potatoes  alone  cut  in  this  way. 
Some  prefer  planting  the  sets  immediately  after  they  are 
cut ;  the  better  way  is  to  get  them  cut  a  week  before  the 
time  of  planting,  and  to  lay  them  out  on  a  bam,  or  garret 
floor,  to  dry. 

It  will  require  from  twelve  to  sixteen  bushels  of  Potatoes 
to  plant  an  acre  of  ground,  according  to  the  size  and  nature 

8 


86  POTATO. 

of  the  seed  roots,  the  manner  of  preparing,  and  mode  of 
planting  the  same. 

Potatoes  may  be  planted  from  the  first  week  in  April  until 
July,  either  in  hills  or  drills ;  the  best  way  for  a  garden  is  to 
plant  them  in  drills  four  or  five  inches  deep,  and  about  thirty 
inches  asunder ;  the  sets  may  be  dropped  six  or  eight  inches 
apart;  and  if  a  small  quantity  of  combmaker's  horn  shavings 
or  sea  weed  be  used  as  a  manure  for  the  early  kinds,  it  will 
expedite  their  growth ;  the  ground  should  be  hoed  as  soon 
as  the  plants  come  up,  and  as  they  progjess  in  growth  it 
will  be  proper  to  mould  or  earth  them  up  twice. 


POTATO,  (Sweet.) 

POMME  DE  TERRE  DOUCE.       CoiWoIvuluS    haiatuS. 

Sweet  Potatoes  are  grown  to  great  perfection  in  the 
Southern  States,  and  may  be  raised  in  the  vicinity  of  New- 
York,  by  means  of  a  moderate  hot-bed,  in  which  they  should 
be  planted  whole,  early  in  April,  three  or  four  inches  deep, 
and  about  the  same  distance  apart.  In  about  a  month  they 
will  throw  up  sprouts.  When  these  are  three  inches  above 
ground,  part  them  off  from  the  Potato,  which,  if  suffered  to 
remain,  will  pi'oduce  more  sprouts  for  a  successive  planting ; 
transplant  them  into  rich  light  soil,  in  rows  four  feet  apart, 
and  the  plants  about  a  foot  apart  in  the  rows,  or  in  hills  four 
feet  apart.  Keep  them  clear  of  weeds  until  the  vines  begin 
to  cover  the  ground,  after  which  they  will  grow  freely.  In 
sandy  ground,  it  is  well  to  put  a  shovelful  of  rotten  manure 
to  each  plant. 

A  moderate  hot-bed,  five  feet  square,  put  down  early  in 
the  month  of  April,  with  half  a  peck  of  good  sound  Sweet 
Potatoesplaced  therein,  will  produce  a  succession  of  sprouts 
in  May  and  June,  which  if  planted  and  managed  as  directed, 
will  yield  about  fifteen  bushels  of  good  roots. 


PUMPKIN.  87 

PUMPKIN. 
CiTRouiLLE  ou  PoTiRON.     CucurbHa  pepo. 

!  VARIETIES. 

j  Finest  Cheese,  or  Family.         I  Connecticut  Field. 

Mammoth,  or  Spanish.  j  White  Bell. 

This  plant  is  liighly  deserving  of  cultivation,  particularly 
in  new  settlements  ;  the  large  sorts  are  profitable  for  cattle, 
as  some  of  the  mammoth  tribe  have  been  known  to  weigh 
upward  of  two  hundred  pounds  each ;  the  other  kinds  are 
also  very  productive,  and  may  be  raised  on  any  waste  land, 
provided  it  will  admit  of  digging  small  spots,  of  the  dimen- 
sions of  one  or  two  feet,  every  ten  or  twelve  feet,  for  the 
hills,  and  the  residue  of  the  ground  be  unencumbered  for 
the  plants  to  run  on.  They  are  generally  raised,  on  culti- 
vated farms,  between  hills  of  Indian  Com,  and  may  be 
planted  in  the  garden  or  open  field,  in  May  and  June,  in  hills 
eight  or  ten  feet  apart,  with  three  or  four  seed  in  each  hill. 

One  quart  of  Field  Pumpkin  seed  will  plant  from  five  to 
six  hundred  hills.  An  ounce  of  the  finer  kinds  will  plant  from 
fifty  to  eighty  hills. 

Pumpkins  are  not  so  tenacious  of  a  particular  soil  as  either 
Melons  or  Cucumbers,  but  in  other  respects  are  cultivated  in 
the  same  manner,  only  that  in  raising  them  on  a  large  scale 
the  ground  may  be  pi'epared  with  a  plough,  and  afterward, 
as  the  weeds  advance,  the  plough  and  harrow  may  be  used 
between  the  plants  until  they  begin  to  run,  which  will  save 
much  labour. 

The  finest  quality  of  Pumpkins  are  known  to  make  good 
pies,  and  may  also,  after  being  boiled,  be  worked  up  with 
wheaten  flour  into  bread,  for  which  purpose  they  are  fully 
equal  to  Indian  meal.  The  knowledge  of  this  fact  may  prove 
advantageous  to  farmers  living  at  a  distance  fi'om  cities,  as 
they  may  find  a  market  for  their  grain  or  meal  readier  than 
for  their  Pumpkins. 


RADISH. 

RADISH. 
Radis  ou  Rave.      Raphantis  sativus. 


VARIETIES. 


Long  Scarlet. 
Long  Purple. 
Scarlet  Pear-shape. 
Scarlet  Turnip. 
White  Turnip-rooted. 


Long  White  Naples. 
Purple  Turnip. 
Yellow  Turnip. 
White  Spanish, 
Black  Spanish, 


The  different  varieties  of  Radish  are  extensively  cultivated 
near  large  cities,  chiefly  for  their  roots,  which  are  considered 
a  luxury  after  a  hard  winter,  and  prove  acceptable  as  warm 
weather  approaches,  provided  they  can  be  obtained  in  per- 
fection. The  plant  is  also  cultivated  for  the  sake  of  the  seed 
leaves,  which  are  used  as  a  small  salad ;  and  even  the  seed 
pods,  if  pickled  while  young  and  green,  are  considered  by 
some  a  good  substitute  for  Capers, 

Those  who  may  be  desirous  of  having  good  Radishes 
early  in  the  spring,  should  have  a  warm  border  prepared  in 
the  very  best  manner,  so  as  to  be  ready  to  sow  some  of  the 
Short  Top  Scarlet  by  the  middle  of  March.  If  the  ground 
should  not  be  in  good  condition  to  receive  the  seed  at  this 
time,  let  it  be  delayed  a  few  days ;  and  by  the  first  of  April, 
have  another  bed  prepared  in  the  open  ground,  by  digging 
in  some  good  strong  manure.  The  seed  may  be  sown  broad- 
cast, and  raked  in  evenly,  or  in  drills  drawn  about  one  inch 
deep,  and  a  foot  apart.* 

If  you  wish  to  have  Radishes  in  regular  succession,  sow 
seed  of  the  most  esteemed  varieties  every  two  weeks,  until 
the  middle  of  May :  if  any  be  sown  after  this,  it  should  be 
the  kinds  described  in  the  second  column  of  our  Catalosfue. 


*  In  the  seasons  for  planting  Carrot,  Parsnip,  Parsley,  Leek,  Celery,  and 
such  other  seed  as  are  tardy  in  germinating,  a  few  grains  of  Radish  seed 
dropped  in  each  drill  will  produce  good  roots,  and  this  crop  will  prove 
beneficial  to  those  above  enumerated,  because  the  rows  can  be  traced  by 
t-he  Radishes,  which  being  of  quick  growth,  may  be  pulled  by  the  time  the 
other  plants  are  in  full  leaf. 


ROCAMBOLE.  89 

These  will  endure  the  heat  better  than  the  others,  and  may 
be  sown  in  drills,  in  small  quantities,  throughout  the  summer, 
until  the  latter  end  of  August,  when  all  the  varieties  may  be 
sown,  in  regular  succession  till  the  first  of  October.  Market 
gardeners  may  prepare  the  ground  with  a  plough,  and  cover 
such  seed  as  may  be  sown  broad-cast  with  a  hanow. 

For  early  spring  crops,  the  seed  may  be  sown  broad-cast, 
at  the  rate  of  from  twelve  to  fourteen  pounds  to  the  acre, 
and  about  half  that  quantity  will  be  sufficient,  in  drills  drawn 
a  foot  apart.  Of  the  large  late  kinds,  five  pounds  to  the  acre 
will  be  enough,  if  sown  regularly  in  drills,  as  directed. 

It  may  be  necessary  here  to  remind  the  gardener  of  the 
necessity  of  sowing  tobacco  dust,  soot,  ashes,  &:c.,  over  his 
seed  beds,  in  hot,  dry  weather,  or  he  will  find  it  difficult  to 
raise  Radishes  in  unpropitious  seasons.  [See.  article  Turnip, 
also  page  19  of  the  General  Remarks.^ 


ROCAMBOLE. 
Ail  d'Espagne.     Jllliiun  scoroduprassum. 

This  and  the  JlUmm  sativum,  or  common  Garlic,  are  raised 
in  some  gardens.  Many  people  consider  the  Rocambole  to 
be  of  a  milder  and  better  flavour  than  Garlic,  but  the  bulbs 
are  not  so  large. 

The  plants  are  very  hardy,  and  will  grow  in  almost  any 
soil  or  situation.  They  may  be  propagated  either  by  the 
roots  or  seed  ;  the  former  ought  to  be  separated  and  planted 
at  the  same  time,  and  in  the  same  manner,  as  Shallots. 

If  raised  from  seed,  they  may  be  sown  in  drills,  either 
shortly  after  the  seed  is  ripe,  or  in  the  succeeding  spring  ; 
they  require  only  to  be  kept  clear  of  weeds,  and  in  the  fol- 
lowing autumn  may  be  taken  up,  the  bulbs  parted,  and 
planted  as  before. 


90  RHUBARB. 

RHUBARB. 

Rhubarbe.      Rheum. 

Rhubarb  is  a  genus  of  exotic  plants,  comprising  seven 
species,  of  which  the  following  are  the  principal : 

1.  Rhnponticnm,  or  Common  Rhubarb,  a  native  of  Thrace 
and  Syria,  has  long  been  cultivated  in  British  gardens  for 
the  footsalks  of  the  leaves,  which  are  frequently  used  in  pics 
and  tarts. 

2.  Rheum  undulalum  is  also  cultivated  for  the  same  use. 

3.  The  Pahnaium,  or  true  Officinale  Rhubarb,  is  a  native 
of  China  and  the  East  Indies,  whence  its  culture  has  been 
introduced  into  Europe  :  it  produces  a  thick,  fleshy  root, 
externally  yellowish  brown,  but  internally  of  a  bright  yellow 
colour,  streaked  with  red  veins.  It  grows  to  great  perfection 
in  Scotland,  as  far  north  as  Perthshire,  (lat.  56,)  and  in  Eng- 
land, Turkey,  and  various  other  parts  of  Europe.  When 
the  importance  of  this  root  as  a  medicine  is  considered,  it  is 
a  matter  of  astonishment  that  it  has  not  been  more  generally 
introduced  into  the  United  States. 

The  several  kinds  of  Rhubarb  may  be  propagated  by  off- 
sets taken  from  the  roots  early  in  the  spring,  or  from  seed 
sown  late  in  autumn,  or  in  March  and  April,  in  diills  one 
inch  deep  and  a  foot  apart.  The  indispensable  points  to  the 
production  of  good  roots  of  the  Pahnatum,  are  depth  and 
richness  of  soil,  which  should  be  well  pulverized  before  the 
plants  are  set  out.  Prepare  beds  of  fine  mould  eighteen 
inches  deep ;  in  these  put  in  the  plants  from  the  seed-bed, 
ten  or  twelve  inches  apart ;  this  must  be  done  when  they 
liave  attained  the  height  of  four  or  five  inches,  and  have 
thrown  out  as  many  leaves. 

The  first  season  is  the  most  critical,  and  much  care  is  ne- 
cessary. If  the  weather  be  hot,  the  nursery  must  be  shaded, 
and  at  all  events  frequently  watered;  for  water,  though 
hurtful  to  old  plants,  is  now  of  the  first  importance.  Wet 
weather  is  the  most  proper  time  in  which  to  plant.     The 


RHUBARB.  91 

beds  must  be  kept  free  from  weeds  during  the  summer,  and 
on  the  approach  of  seveie  weather,  covered  up  with  hght 
litter.  In  the  eaily  part  of  spring,  this  must  be  taken  off, 
and  in  the  beginning  of  April  the  plants  must  be  transplanted 
into  ground  dug  and  prepared  as  directed  for  Asparagus. 

Those  who  cultivate  the  Palmalum  for  the  sake  of  the 
roots,  should  dig  the  ground  two  or  three  spades  deep,  and 
place  the  plants  three  feet  apart  every  way.  As  to  the  other 
varieties,  it  is  not  so  particular,  only  the  plants  must  have 
room  in  which  to  grow.  In  the  early  part  of  November,  the 
leaves  being  then  decayed,  the  beds  should  be  covered  with 
dry  litter  ;  before  this  is  done,  a  little  earth  should  be  drawn 
round  the  crowns  of  the  plants.  If  there  be  any  danger  of 
water  lodging,  make  trenches  to  carry  it  off.  In  the  month 
of  March,  the  beds  should  be  stripped  of  their  covering,  and 
the  ground  well  hoed  and  cleared  of  weeds. 

The  roots  of  the  Palmahtm  must  not  be  taken  up  until  six 
or  seven  years  old.  The  stalks  of  the  other  kinds  may  be 
cut  every  spring,  as  soon  as  the  leaves  are  expanded. 

If  Rhubarb  stalks  be  required  for  use  early  in  the  spring, 
they  may  be  obtained  by  placing  flour  barrels  or  deep  tubs 
over  some  of  the  plants,  and  covering  them  up  with  fresh 
stable  dung,  or  by  any  of  the  methods  pointed  out  in  the 
article  under  the  head  of  Forcing  Vegetables. 

The  stalks  of  this  plant  ai'e  used  for  pies  and  tarts.  After 
being  stripped  of  the  skin,  or  outer  covering,  and  divested 
of  the  small  fibres,  or  stringiness  to  which  the  plant  is  liable, 
in  an  advanced  stage  of  growth,  the  stalks  should  be  cut 
transversely  into  very  small  pieces,  and  then  parboiled  with 
sugar,  and  such  spices  as  best  suit  the  palate.  Rhubarb  will 
keep  this  way  the  same  as  other  preserves,  and  may  be  used 
not  only  in  pies  and  tarts,  but  it  makes  an  excellent  pudding, 
which  is  done  by  flattening  a  suety  crust  with  a  rolling-pin, 
then  spreading  on  the  fnnt,  rolling  it  up  in  an  oval  shape, 
and  boiling  it  in  a  cloth.  Prepared  in  this  way,  the  fruit 
retains  its  virtues,  and  the  pudding  may  be  served  up  hot,  in 


slices  of  from  half  an  inch  to  an  inch  thick,  with  butter  and 
sugar  spread  between  the  layers. 

Some  boil  the  stalks  to  a  juice,  which  being  strained 
through  a  colander,  will  keep  for  years,  if  well  spiced  and 
seasoned  with  sugar. 

In  England,  large  drying  houses  have  been  erected  for  the 
purpose  of  curing  the  roots  of  the  Palmaium ;  but  this  busi- 
ness may  be  done  in  this  country  as  it  is  done  in  China :  by 
the  heat  of  the  sun.  After  the  roots  have  been  well  washed, 
and  the  small  fibres  cut  off,  they  are  to  be  cut  transversely 
into  pieces  about  two  inches  thick,  and  dried  on  boards,  turn- 
ing them  several  times  a  day,  in  order  to  prevent  the  escape 
of  the  yellow  juice,  on  which  its  medicinal  qualities  depend. 
In  four  or  five  days  they  may  be  strung  upon  strings,  and 
suspended  in  a  shady  but  airy  and  dry  situation,  and  in  two 
months  afterward  they  will  be  fit  for  the  market. 


SALSIFY. 
Salsifis  ou  Cercifis.     Tragopogon  porrifolnis. 

This  plant  grows  spontaneously  in  the  open  fields  of  Eng- 
land, and  is  by  some  highly  valued  for  its  white  edible  root, 
and  for  the  young  shoots  rising  in  the  spring  from  plants  a 
year  old ;  these,  when  gathered  while  green  and  tender,  are 
good  to  boil  and  eat  in  the  same  manner  as  Asparagus, 
Some  have  carried  their  fondness  for  this  plant  so  far  as  to 
call  it  Vegetable  Oyster,  It  requires  the  same  kind  of  soil 
and  management  as  CaiTots  and  Parsnips. 

The  seed  maybe  sown  at  anytime  in  April  and  May,  an  inch 
deep,  in  drills  twelve  inches  apart.  When  the  plants  are  two 
or  three  inches  high,  they  should  be  thinned  to  the  distance  of 
six  inches  from  each  other,  and  afterward  hoed.  The  ground 
should  be  kept  clean  and  loose  round  the  plants,  by  rejjeated 
hoeing ;  in  the  autumn  they  will  be  fit  for  use.     The  roots 


SCORZONERA.  93 

may  be  taken  up  late  in  autumn,  and  secured  in  moist  sand 
from  the  air ;  or  suffered  to  remain  out,  and  dug  up  when 
wanted. 

As  the  seed  of  Salsify  do  not  all  ripen  uniformly,  it  should 
be  sown  moderately  thick.  To  insure  a  regular  crop,  five 
or  six  pounds  may  be  allowed  for  an  acre  of  ground,  or  two 
ounces  for  every  three  perches. 

The  mode  of  cooking  recommended  by  an  American  au- 
thor is,  "  To  cut  the  roots  transversely  into  thin  pieces ;  boil 
them  in  water,  or  milk  and  water ;  when  boiled  soft,  rrnash 
them,  and  thicken  the  whole  with  flour  to  some  degree  of 
stiffiiess;  then  fry  them  in  the  fat  of  salt  pork,  or  butter, 
they  are  a  luxury." 

In  England  the  tops  are  considered  excellent  food  when 
boiled  tender,  and  served  up  with  poached  eggs  and  melted 
butter.  They  are  by  some  considered  salutary  for  persons 
inclined  to  consumption.  Those  afflicted  with  any  symp- 
toms indicating  the  approach  of  that  complaint,  cannot  harm 
themselves  by  eating  the  tops,  when  they  are  to  be  got,  which 
is  in  the  month  of  April ;  and  if  the  roots  are  eaten  when 
attainable,  they  may,  perhaps,  answer  a  still  better  purpose, 
and  even  the  liquor  in  which  they  are  boiled  may  possess 
some  of  the  most  valuable  properties  of  the  plant. 


SCORZONERA. 
ScoRSONERE.     Scovzoiiera  Hispanica. 

This  plant  has  long  been  raised  in  British  gardens,  for 
culinary  purposes,  and  especially  as  an  ingredient  in  soups, 
on  account  of  its  palatable  and  nourishing  roots.  Some  boil 
and  eat  them  like  Carrots,  &c. ;  in  which  case  they  should 
be  deprived  of  their  rind,  and  immersed  in  cold  water  for 
half  an  hour,  or  they  will  be  bitter.  They  are  raised  pre- 
cisely in  the  same  manner  as  Salsify.     If  the  seed  be  sown  in 


94  SEA-KALE. 

April,  in  a  good  deep  soil,  the  roots  will  attain  perfection  in 
autumn,  and  continue  good  all  the  winter.  They  last  from 
three  to  four  years,  according  to  the  quality  of  the  earth  and 
the  care  bestowed  upon  them ;  but  it  is  better  to  raise  a  few 
from  seed  every  year. 


SEA-KALE. 
Chou  MARIN.     Crambe  maritima. 

This  plant  is  found  on  the  sea-shore,  in  the  southern  part* 
of  Eno'land,  where  it  grows  spontaneously.  As  soon  as  it 
appears  above  ground,  the  inhabitants  remove  the  pebbles 
or  sand  with  which  it  is  usually  covered,  to  the  depth  of  sev- 
eral inches,  and  cut  off  the  young  and  tender  leaves  and 
etalks,  as  yet  unexpanded  and  in  a  blanched  state,  close  to 
the  crown  of  the  root ;  it  is  then  in  its  greatest  perfection. 
When  the  leaves  are  full  gi'own,  they  become  hard  and  bit- 
ter, and  the  plant  is  not  eatable. 

It  is  cultivated  in  piivate  gardens,  and  for  sale,  in  various 
parts  of  England.  Cultivators  have  differed  widely  respect- 
ing the  mode  of  treating  this  plant ;  many  conceiving  that 
stones,  gravel,  and  sea  sand  are  essential  to  its  growth,  have 
gone  to  the  expense  of  providing  them  ;  but  it  has  been  dis- 
covered that  it  will  gi'ow  much  more  luxuriantly  in  a  rich 
sandy  loam,  where  the  roots  can  penetrate  to  a  great  depth. 

The  seed  of  Sea-Kale  may  be  sown  in  October,  or  as  early 
in  the  spring  as  the  ground  can  be  brought  into  good  condi- 
tion, in  drills  an  inch  and  a  half  deep,  and  fourteen  or  six- 
teen inches  asunder ;  the  plants  should  afterward  be  thinned 
out  to  the  distance  of  six  or  eight  inches  from  each  other  in 
the  rows,  and  kept  clear  of  weeds  by  fretjuent  hoeing  through 
the  summer.  When  the  plants  are  a  year  old,  every  third 
row  may  be  taken  up,  and  also  every  other  plant  in  each 
row,  leaving  them  fourteen  or  sixteen  inches  apart ;  these 


SEA-KALE.  95 

may  be  transplanted  into  good  ground  prepared  as  directed 
for  Asparagus.  Plant  two  rows  in  each  bed,  about  eighteen 
inches  apart ;  the  best  way  is  to  make  two  drills  three  inches 
deep,  and  with  a  dibble  set  in  the  plants  fifteen  or  sixteen 
inches  from  each  other;  when  these  drills  are  filled,  the 
crowns  of  the  plants  will  be  covered  nearly  two  inches,  but 
they  will  soon  push  through  the  earth.  The  plants  left  in 
the  seed-bed  may  form  a  permanent  bed,  which  should  be 
forked  or  dug  between  the  rows  ;  previous  to  this  being  done, 
lay  on  an  inch  or  two  of  good  rotten  manure,  and  incoi-porate 
it  with  the  earth  around  the  plants. 

Some  make  new  plantations  of  the  old  roots,  which  should 
be  cut  up  into  pieces  of  about  two  inches  in  length,  and 
planted  in  March  or  April,  three  or  four  inches  deep,  at  the 
distance  before  directed  for  the  plants. 

At  the  approach  of  winter  the  leaves  will  die  away,  and 
disappear.  The  beds  should  then  be  thickly  covered  with 
dung,  leaves,  or  sea-weed ;  this  will  not  only  protect  the 
plants  from  frost,  but  will  cause  them  to  shoot  up  early  in 
the  spring.  As  soon  as  the  frost  is  out  of  the  ground,  this 
may  be  taken  off,  or,  if  well  rotted,  it  may  be  mixed  up  with 
the  earth ;  the  crowns  of  the  plants  should  then  be  covered 
to  the  depth  of  ten  or  twelve  inches  for  blanching. 

Some  blanch  it  by  heaping  on  it  sea  sand ;  some  common 
sand  and  gi'avel ;  and  others  with  large  garden  pots,  inverted 
and  placed  immediately  over  the  plants.  If  these  pots  be 
covered  up  with  fresh  horse  dung,  it  will  forward  the  shoots 
in  growth,  and  make  them  sweeter  and  more  tender. 

When  your  plants  have  been  covered  in  either  method 
three  or  four  weeks,  examine  them,  and  if  you  find  that  the 
stalks  have  shot  up  three  or  four  inches,  you  may  begin  cut- 
ting ;  should  you  wait  till  all  the  shoots  are  of  considerable 
length,  your  crop  will  come  in  too  much  at  once,  for  in  this 
plant  there  is  not  that  successsive  growth  which  there  is  in 
Asparagus ;  you  may  continue  cutting  until  you  see  the  heads 
of  flowers  begin  to  form ;  and  if  at  this  time  you  uncover  it 


96  SEA-KALE. 

entirely,  and  let  it  proceed  to  that  state  in  which  Broccoli  is 
usually  cut,  and  use  it  as  such,  you  will  find  it  an  excellent 
substitute  ;  and  this  greatly  enhances  the  value  of  the  plant ; 
as  Broccoli  does  not  stand  our  winter  frosts,  and  can  only  be 
had  when  carefully  protected,  as  recommanded  when  treat- 
ing of  that  vegetable ;  but  Sea-Kale  is  sufficiently  hardy  to 
bear  our  winter  frosts,  without  much  injury.  You  are  not 
to  weaken  the  roots  too  much  by  over-cutting,  for  in  that  case 
it  would  injure  their  next  year's  bearing :  some  of  the  shoots 
should  be  allowed  to  grow,  to  carry  on  a  proper  vegetation, 
and  strengthen  and  enlarge  the  roots.  Great  care  should  be 
taken  in  cutting,  not  to  injure  the  crowns  of  the  roots  by  cut- 
ting the  shoots  too  close  to  them.  Sea-Kale  should  be  dressed 
soon  after  it  is  cut,  as  the  goodness  of  the  article  greatly  de- 
pends on  its  not  being  long  exposed  to  the  air. 

If  you  choose  to  force  Sea-Kale,  dig  a  trench  all  round  a 
small  bed,  about  three  feet  wide,  and  thirty  inches  deep ;  fill 
it  with  hot  dung,  and  as  it  sinks,  raise  it.  This  will  make 
the  plants  grow ;  and  if  hand  lights  are  set  over  them,  it 
will  accelerate  their  growth. 

To  have  this  rare  vegetable  in  perfection,  it  should  be 
cooked  as  soon  as  gathered.  Let  it  be  first  soaked  in  water, 
seasoned  with  salt,  for  half  an  hovu-;  then  wash  it  in  fresli 
water,  and  put  it  into  the  cooking  utensil ;  keep  it  boiling 
briskly,  skim  clean,  and  let  off  steam.  When  the  stalks  are 
tender,  which  7nay  be  expected  in  from  fifteen  to  twenty-five 
minutes,  according  to  size  and  age,  take  it  up,  dish  it,  and 
serve  it  up  with  melted  butter,  gravy,  and  such  condiments 
as  are  most  agreeable  to  the  palate. 


SHALLOT.  97 

SKIRRET. 
Chervis,  ov  Gyrole.     Sium  sisarum. 

This  plant  is  first  cultivated  by  seed,  and  afterward  by  off- 
sets taken  from  the  old  roots,  and  planted  very  early  in  the 
spring,  before  they  begin  to  shoot ;  but  it  is  best  to  raise  a 
small  bed  from  seed  every  year,  as  the  roots  grow  longer 
than  those  raised  from  slips,  and  are  less  liable  to  be  sticky. 
The  seed  may  be  sown  in  drills  the  latter  part  of  March, 
or  early  in  Apiil,  and  managed  the  same  as  Salsify,  Parsnip, 
&c.  In  autumn,  when  the  leaves  begin  to  decay,  the  roots  are 
fit  to  use,  and  continue  so  till  they  begin  to  shoot  in  the  spring. 

Skirrets  should  be  planted  in  a  light,  moist  soil,  for  in  dry 
land  the  roots  are  generally  small,  unless  the  season  proves  wet. 

The  root  of  the  Skirret  is  composed  of  several  fleshy 
tubers  as  large  as  a  man's  finger,  and  joined  together  at  the 
top.  They  are  eaten  boiled,  and  stewed  with  butter,  pepper, 
and  salt,  or  rolled  in  flour  and  fried,  or  else  cold,  with  oil 
and  vinegar,  being  first  boiled.  They  have  much  of  the  taste 
and  flavour  of  a  Parsnip,  and  are  by  some  considered  a  great 
deal  more  palatable. 


SHALLOT. 
Echalote.     Allium  ascalonicum. 

The  true  Shallot  is  a  native  of  Palestine,  and  is  considered 
to  possess  the  most  agi'eeable  flavour  of  any  of  the  Mlium 
genus  ;  it  is  consequently  highly  deserving  of  cultivation. 

It  is  propagated  by  planting  bulbs,  or  offsets,  in  the  fall  of 
the  year,  which  may  be  set  out  with  a  dibble,  in  rows  twelve 
inches  apart,  and  from  four  to  six  inches  distant  in  the  rows  ; 
or  they  may  be  placed  in  drills,  two  or  three  inches  deep, 
and  covered  up  with  a  trowel  or  hoe. 

The  gardeners  about  New- York  plant  large  quantities  of 
the  bulbs  toward  the  end  of  August,  and  early  in  Septera- 

9 


98;  SPINACH,    OR   SPINAGE. 

ber ;  by  this  means  they  are  enabled  to  supply  the  market 
in  April  and  May  with  a  mild  Allium,  which  while  green 
meets  a  ready  sale. 

Those  intended  for  seed  may  remain  in  the  ground  until 
June  or  July ;  after  the  tops  have  decayed,  the  bulbs  must 
be  taken  up,  and  the  offsets  divided  :  these  should  be  kept  in 
a  dry  place  to  plant  the  ensuing  autumn. 

It  will  require  at  least  four  bushels  of  bulbs,  if  measured 
when  first  taken  from  the  ground,  to  plant  a  quarter  of  an 
acre ;  because  after  they  are  trimmed  and  deprived  of  their 
seed  stalks,  the  bulk  will  be  reduced  one  half. 


SPINACH,  OR  SPINAGE. 
Epinard.     Spinacia. 

VARIETIES. 
Large  Round-leaved.  1         Holland,  or  Lamb's  Quarter 

Broad-leaved  Savoy.  |  New  Zealand. 

The  Spinacia  oleracea,  or  common  Spinach,  is  vei-y  hardy, 
and  consequently  a  very  important  vegetable  for  cold  cli- 
mates. It  merits  attention  from  its  being  extremely  whole- 
some and  palatable,  and  from  its  keeping  green  even  after 
having  been  cooked.  It  makes  a  delicious  dish  when  served 
up  with  the  gravy  of  roast  meat,  melted  butter,  &c. 

As  Spinach  is  the  only  vegetable  that  can  be  raised  to  ad- 
vantage the  latter  end  of  the  year,  the  gardener  should,  to- 
wards the  end  of  August,  prepare  such  ground  as  may  have 
been  occupied  by  summer  crops,  and  by  having  it  well  ma- 
nured for  this  crop,  it  will  be  in  good  condition  for  Beets, 
Carrots,  Parsnips,  Turnips,  &:c.,  the  spring  following. 

If  the  ground  be  got  ready,  so  as  to  have  several  beds 
sown  in  succession,  from  the  first  to  the  end  of  September, 
the  most  forward  of  these,  if  covered  up  with  straw  at  the 
approach  of  cold  weather,  will  furnish  greens  for  the  table 
when  other  vegetables  are  scarce,  and  the  later  crops  will 


SPINACH,    OR    SPINAGE.  99 

recover  the  effects  of  a  hard  winter,  and  produce  a  whole- 
some vegetable  early  in  the  spring. 

If  Spinacli  seed  be  sown  in  rich  ground  in  March  and 
April,  it  will  grow  freely,  but  it  must  be  cut  before  the  ap- 
proach of  hot  weather,  or  it  will  run  to  seed.  To  raise  it  in 
perfection  at  this  season,  it  should  be  sown  in  drills  about  a 
foot  apart,  and  be  frequently  hoed  ;  this  will  keep  it  in  a' 
growing  state,  and,  consequently,  prevent  its  running  up  to 
seed  as  quick  as  it  otherwise  would. 

It  is  altogether  useless  to  sow  Spinach  seed  in  poor  ground; 
let  the  gi'ound  be  well  manured  with  good  strong  dung,  and  it 
will  well  reward  you  for  your  trouble  by  its  abundant  produce. 

If  Spinach  be  cultivated  in  drills  a  foot  apart,  it  will  re- 
quire from  seven  to  eight  pounds  of  seed  to  plant  an  acre 
of  ground.  Some  gardeners  use  more  than  double  that 
quantity  in  sowing  broad-cast. 

Be  careful  to  pick  Spinach  exceedingly  clean,  and  wash 
it  in  five  or  six  waters  previous  to  cooking  it.  Some  cook 
Spinach  in  a  steamer  over  boiling  water,  others  boil  it  in 
water  ;  but  the  best  way  is  to  put  it  into  a  saucepan  that  will 
just  hold  it,  without  water,  then  strew  a  little  salt  upon  it, 
and  cover  it  close.  Put  your  saucepan  on  a  clear  quick  fire ; 
and  when  you  find  the  Spinach  shrunk  and  fallen  to  the  bot- 
tom, and  the  juice  which  comes  from  it  boil  up,  it  is  done. 
In  order  that  it  may  be  lendered  capable  of  absorbing  a 
moderate  quantity  of  gravy,  melted  butter,  &c.,  which  are 
indispensable  with  green  vegetables,  let  it  be  well  drained 
in  a  sieve,  or  colander,  before  it  is  dished. 

The  New  Zealand  Spinach,  or  Tetragona  expansa,  is  not 
much  cultivated  in  this  country ;  its  nature  seems  to  be  op- 
posite to  the  common  Spinach,  as  it  will  endure  the  heat 
better  than  the  cold.  It  may  be  obtained  in  the  summer, 
by  planting  the  seed  in  April  and  May.  Being  of  luxuriant 
giowth,  it  should  be  planted  in  hills  three  feet  apart,  and 
about  two  seed  in  a  hill.  The  leaves  will  be  fit  for  use  dur- 
ing the  summer,  and  until  late  in  the  autumn. 


100  SQUASH. 

SQUASH. 
Gourde  Giraumon  ou  Potiron.     Cucurbita  melopepa. 

VARIETIES. 


Early  Bush  Scollop. 
Green  Striped  Bush. 
Early  Crookneck. 
Large  Cushaw. 


Vegetable  Marrow. 
Winter    Crookneck. 
Lima  Cocoanut. 
Acorn,  or  California. 


The  several  varieties  of  Squash  are  very  useful  in  this  and 
other  warm  climates,  as  they  can  be  grown  in  perfection  ia 
the  summer,  and  therefoi'e  prove  a  good  substitute  for  Tur- 
nips, which  cannot  be  raised  in  perfection  in  hot  weather. 
They  should  be  planted  in  May  and  June,  in  hills,  prepared 
in  the  same  manner  as  for  Cucumbers  and  Melons,  and  their 
subsequent  management  is  the  same  in  every  respect.  The 
bush  kinds  should  be  planted  three  or  four  feet  apart,  and 
the  running  kinds  from  six  to  nine,  according  to  their  nature, 
as  some  will  run  more  than  others.  It  is  always  best  to 
plant  five  or  six  seed  in  a  hill,  to  guard  against  accidents ;  as 
when  the  plants  are  past  danger,  they  can  be  thinned  to  two 
or  three  in  a  hill.  One  ounce  of  Squash  seed  will  plant  from 
fifty  to  a  hundred  hills,  according  to  the  sorts  and  size  of  the 
seed. 

The  fruit  of  the  Early  Summer  Squash  is  generally  gath- 
ered for  use  before  the  skin  gets  hard,  and  while  it  is  so  ten- 
der as  to  give  way  to  a  moderate  pressure  of  the  thumb  nail. 
The  Winter  Squashes  should  be  suffered  to  ripen,  and  collect- 
ed together  in  October,  in  the  manner  recommended  in  the 
Calendar  for  that  month. 

All  kinds  of  Squashes  should,  after  having  been  boiled 
tender,  be  pressed  as  close  as  possible  between  two  wooden 
trenchers,  or  by  means  of  a  slice  or  skimmer,  made  of  the 
same  material,  until  dry,  and  then  prepared  for  the  table  in 
the  same  manner  as  Turnips. 


TOMATO.  10] 

TOMATO. 
ToMATE,  ou  PoMME  d'amour.     Solanum  lycopersicum. 

VARIETIES. 

Large  Red.  |  Pear-shaped. 

Large  Yellow.  1  Cherry-shaped. 

The  Tomato,  or  Love  Apple,  is  much  cultivated  for  its 
fruit,  which  is  used  in  soups  and  sauces,  to  which  it  imparts 
an  agreeable  acid  flavour ;  it  is  also  stewed  and  dressed  in 
various  ways,  and  is  considered  very  wholesome. 

The  seed  should  be  sown  early  in  March,  in  a  slight  hot- 
bed, and  the  plants  set  out  in  the  open  ground,  if  settled 
warm  weather,  in  the  early  part  of  May.  In  private  gar- 
dens it  will  be  necessary  to  plant  them  near  a  fence,  or  to 
provide  trellises  for  them  to  be  trained  to,  in  the  manner 
recommended  for  Nasturtiums  ;  they  will,  however,  do  very 
well,  if  planted  four  feet  distant  from  each  other  every  way. 

Tomatoes  may  be  brought  to  perfection  late  in  the  sum- 
mer, by  sowing  the  seed  in  the  open  ground  the  first  week 
in  May ;  these  plants  will  be  fit  to  transplant  early  in  June, 
and  the  fruit  may  ripen  in  time  for  preserves,  or  for  catsup. 

One  ounce  of  good  Tomato  seed  will  produce  upward  of 
four  thousand  plants  ;  and  a  single  plant  has  been  known  to 
yield  upward  of  a  bushel  of  fruit. 

Tomatoes  may  be  preserved  in  a  stone  or  glazed  earthen 
pot,  for  use  in  the  winter,  by  covering  them  with  water  in 
which  a  sufficient  quantity  of  salt  has  been  dissolved  to  make 
it  strong  enough  to  bear  an  egg.  Select  perfectly  ripe  ber- 
ries, and  cover  the  pot  with  a  plate  in  such  a  manner  that  it 
presses  upon  the  fruit  without  biuising  it.  Previous  to  cook- 
ing these  Tomatoes,  they  should  be  soaked  in  fresh  watei" 
for  several  hours. 

Besides  the  vaiious  modes  of  preparing  this  delicious  ve- 
getable for  the  table,  it  may  be  preserved  in  sugar,  and  used 
either  as  a  dessert,  or  on  the  tea-table,  as  a  substitute  for 
Peaches  or  other  sweetmeats.  It  also  makes  exqusite  pies 
and  tarts,  and  excellent  catsup. 


102  TURNIP. 

A  celebrated  WTiter  observes,  tliat  "  the  common  Tomato 
made  into  a  gravy,  by  stewing  over  the  fire,  and  used  as  a 
sauce  for  meat,  has  been  known  to  quicken  the  action  of  the 
liver  and  of  the  bowels,  better  than  any  medicine  he  ever 
made  use  of."  He  states  farther,  that  "  when  afflicted  with 
inaction  of  the  bowels,  headache,  a  bad  taste  of  the  mouth, 
straitness  of  the  chest,  and  a  dull  and  painful  heaviness  of 
the  legion  of  the  liver,  the  \\hole  of  these  symptoms  are 
removed  by  Tomato  sauce,  and  the  mind,  in  the  course  of 
some  few  hours,  is  put  in  perfect  tune." 

To  make  them  into  catsup,  use  one  pint  of  salt  to  one 
peck  of  Tomatoes  ;  bruise  them,  and  let  them  stand  two 
days ;  then  strain  them  dry,  and  boil  the  juice  until  the  scum 
ceases  to  rise,  with  two  ounces  of  black  pepper,  the  same 
quantity  of  pimento  or  allspice,  one  ounce  of  ginger,  one  of 
cloves,  and  half  an  ounce  of  mace. 


TURNIP. 
Navet.     Brassica  rapa. 


Early  Garden  Stone. 
Early  White  Dutch. 
Early  Snow  Ball. 
Early  Red  Top. 
Strap  Leaved  Red  Top. 
Early  Green  Top 
Yellow  Aberdeen. 
Long  White. 


VARIETIES. 

Large  English  Norfolk. 

Long  Tankard,  or  Hanover. 

White  Flat,  or  Globe. 

Yellow  Maltese. 

Yellow  Stone. 

Dale's  Yellow  Hybrid. 

Long  Yellow. 

Russia,  Swedish,  or  Ruta  Be 


This  is  a  wholesome  and  useful  plant,  both  for  man  and 
beast,  and  highly  deserving  of  cultivation.  It  being  the  last 
esculent  vegetable  in  our  catalogue,  that  is  raised  from  seed 
sold  at  the  various  seed  stores,  I  shall  endeavour  to  stimulate 
those  of  our  yeomanry  who  have  hitherto  neglected  the  cul- 
ture of  this  field  as  well  as  garden  production,  to  exertion 
and  diligence,  by  inserting  a  few  extracts  from  a  paper  that 
now  lies  before  me. 


TURNIP.  103 

•*'  CuUtire  of  Turnips. — Until  the  beginning  of  the  eigh- 
teenth century,  this  valuable  root  was  cultivated  only  in  gar- 
dens, or  other  small  spots,  for  culinary  purposes  ;  but  Lord 
Townsend,  who  attended  King  George  the  First  in  one  of 
his  excursions  to  Germany,  in  the  quality  of  Secretary  of 
State,  observing  the  Turnip  cultivated  in  open  and  extensive 
fields,  as  fodder  for  cattle,  and  spreading  fertility  over  lands 
naturally  barren,  on  his  return  to  England  brought  over  some 
of  the  seed,  and  strongly  recommended  the  practice  which 
he  had  witnessed,  to  the  adoption  of  his  own  tenants,  who 
occupied  a  soil  similar  to  that  of  Hanover.  The  experiment 
succeeded  ;  the  cultivation  of  Field  Turnips  gradually  spread 
over  the  whole  county  of  Norfolk,  and  has  made  its  way  into 
every  other  district  of  England.  Some  of  the  finest  grain 
crops  in  the  world  are  now  growing  upon  land,  which  be- 
fore the  introduction  of  the  Turnip  husbandry,  produced  a 
very  scanty  supply  of  grass  for  a  few  lean  and  half-starved 
rabbits." 

Mr.  Colquhoun,  in  his  '  Statistical  Researches,''  estimated 
the  value  of  the  Turnip  crop  annually  growing  in  the  United 
Kingdom  of  Great  Britain  and  Ireland,  at  fourteen  million 
pounds  sterling,  (equal  to  upward  of  sixty  millions  op  dol- 
lars.) But  when  we  farther  recollect,  that  it  enables  the 
agriculturist  to  reclaim  and  cultivate  land,  which,  without  its 
aid,  would  remain  in  a  hopeless  state  of  natural  baiTenness ; 
that  it  leaves  the  land  clean  and  in  fine  condition,  and  also 
insures  a  good  crop  of  Barley,  and  a  kind  plant  of  Clover ; 
and  that  this  Clover  is  found  a  most  excellent  pieparative 
for  Wheat,  it  will  appear  that  the  subsequent  advantages 
derived  from  a  crop  of  Turnips  must  infinitely  exceed  its 
estimated  value  as  fodder  for  cattle. 

The  preceding  remarks  show  the  kind  of  land  that  may 
be  made  capable  of  producing  not  only  Turnips,  but  other 
things  of  equal  value.  It  must,  however,  be  granted,  that 
some  soils  naturally  suit  particular  kinds  of  vegetables  better 
than  others,  and  that,  in  general,  exotic  plants  will  succeed 


104  TURNIP. 

best  in  such  soils  as  are  nearest  like  their  own  native  soil. 
As  we  have  not  always  a  choice,  I  would  inform  the  Young 
Gardener,  if  he  has  a  very  light  soil,  which  is  not  suitable 
for  vegetables  in  general,  he  may  sometimes  get  two  crops  of 
Turnips  from  it  in  one  year,  by  sowing  seed  for  the  first  crop 
in  March,  and  that  for  his  second  about  the  middle  of  August. 
For  general  crops,  it  will  be  better  to  have  ground  manured 
with  short  rotten  dung,  or  compost  containing  a  considerable 
proportion  of  coal,  wood,  peat,  or  soapers'  ashes.  Ground 
that  has  been  well  manured  for  preceding  crops,  and  also 
ground  fresh  broken  up,  will  do  well  for  Turnips. 

It  is  important  that  jiarticular  attention  be  paid  to  the  time 
of  sowing  the  seed ;  for  if  the  first  crop  be  not  sown  soon 
enough  to  be  gathered  early  in  July,  they  are  seldom  fit  for 
the  table,  being  hot,  stringy,  and  wormy ;  and  if  the  crop  in- 
tended for  autumn  and  winter  use  is  sown  before  August, 
unless  it  be  a  very  favourable  season,  if  they  even  escape 
the  attacks  of  insects  and  reptiles,  they  often  get  so  defective, 
that  they  seldom  keep  through  the  winter.* 

To  have  Turnips  in  perfection,  they  should  be  hoed  in 

about  a  month  after  they  are  sown,  or  by  the  time  the  plants 

have  spread  to  a  circle  of  about  four  inches,  and  again  about 

a  month  from  the  first  hoeing,  leaving  them  from  six  to  nine 

inches  apart.      They  will  yield   the  cultivator  more  profit 

when  treated  in  this  way,  than  when  left  to  nature,  as  is  too 

frequently  done. 

♦  Previous  to  sowing  Turnip  seed,  the  gardener  should  procure  a  suitable 
quantity  of  lime,  soot,  or  tobacco  dust,  so  as  to  be  prepared  for  the  attacks 
of  insects.  It  should  be  recollected  that  Turnip  seed  will  sometimes  sprout 
within  forty-eight  hours  after  it  is  sown,  and  that  very  frequently  whole 
crops  are  devoured  before  a  plant  is  seen  above  ground.  A  peck  of  either 
of  these  ingredients,  mixed  with  about  an  equal  quantity  of  ashes,  or  even 
dry  road  dust,  scattered  over  the  ground,  morning  and  evening,  for  the  first 
week  after  sowing  the  seed,  would  secure  an  acre  of  ground,  provided  the 
composition  be  used  in  such  a  way  that  the  wind  carry  it  over  the  whole 
plot ;  and  as  the  wind  often  changes,  this  end  may  be  effected  by  crossing 
the  land  in  a  different  direction  each  time,  according  as  the  wind  may  serve. 
If  gardeners  who  raise  Radishes,  Cabbage,  and  such  other  vegetables  as  are 
subject  to  the  attacks  of  insects,  were  to  pursue  this  course,  they  would 
save  themselves  from  considerable  loss. 


TURNIP.  105 

It  is  generally  admitted  that  one  pound  of  Turnip  seed  is 
amply  sufficient  for  an  acre  of  ground,  yet  some  will  use 
considerably  more,  because  of  the  difficulty  of  distributing  so 
small  a  quantity  of  seed  I'egularly  broad-cast.  This  difficulty 
is,  however,  obviated  by  sowing  the  seed  in  drills  ;  and  al- 
though it  may  seem  a  tedious  process  to  those  who  have  no 
other  means  of  doing  it  than  by  hand,  the  facilities  thus  af- 
forded of  hoeing  between  the  rows,  more  than  compensate 
for  the  extra  labour. 

I  once  induced  a  friend  of  mine  to  sow  four  ounces  of 
Turnip  seed,  in  August,  in  drills  a  foot  apart,  by  which 
means  he  made  it  extend  over  more  than  half  an  acre  of 
land ;  and  by  hoeing  the  plants  twice,  he  had  the  gi'atiflca- 
tion  of  pulling  four  hundred  bushels  of  handsome  Turnips, 
vp-hich  is  more  than  is  generally  taken  from  an  acre  of  land 
cultivated  in  the  ordinary  way. 

If  seed  of  the  Russia  or  Swedish  Turnip  be  sown  in  drills, 
any  time  in  the  month  of  July,  or  even  early  in  August,  they 
will  produce  fine  roots  toward  the  end  of  October,  pro- 
vided the  land  be  good,  and  well  worked.  When  the  plants 
are  up  strong,  they  must  be  hoed  and  thinned  to  the  distance 
of  twelve  or  fifteen  inches  from  each  other ;  another  hoeing 
will  be  necessary  in  five  or  six  weeks  afterward.  This  will 
make  them  grow  freely.  If  cultivated  in  the  field,  frequent 
ploughing  between  the  rows  will  be  beneficial. 

The  Turnip  is  a  favourite  vegetable  vnth  some,  and  in 
England,  a  leg  of  mutton  and  caper  sauce  is  considered  by 
epicures  as  but  half  a  dish  without  mashed  Turnips.  To 
have  them  in  perfection,  they  should,  after  having  been  de- 
prived of  their  rind,  be  equalized  by  cutting  the  largest  trans- 
versely in  the  centre,  and  then,  after  being  boiled  tender,  let 
them  be  taken  up,  and  pressed  as  dry  as  possible ;  at  the  same 
time,  let  a  lump  of  butter  and  a  due  proportion  of  Cayenne 
pepper  and  salt  be  added,  and  be  beaten  up  with  the  Turnips 
until  properly  mixed.  Use  the  natural  gravy  from  the  meat 
unadulterated,  and  such  condiment  as  may  be  most  esteemed. 


106  AROMATIC,  POT,  AND  SWEET  HERBS. 

AROMATIC,  POT,  AND  SWEET  HERBS. 

(jrRAiNES  d'Herbes  Aromatiques,  odoriferantes  et  a 
l'usage  de  la  cuisine. 

Angelica,  Garden,  Angelica  atropurpurea. 

Anise,  Pimpinella  anisum. 

Basil,  Sweet,  Ocymum  basiUcum. 

Borage,  Borago  officinalis. 

Burnet,  Garden,  Puturium  sanguisorba. 

Caraway,  Carum  carui. 

Chervil,  or  Cicely  the  Sweet,  Scandix  odorata  cerefolium. 

Clary,  Salvia  sclara. 

Coriander,  Coriandrum  sativum. 

Dill,  Anethum  graveolens. 

*  Fennel,  Common,  Anethum  faniculum. 
♦Fennel,  Sweet,  Anethum  duke. 
Marig'ild,  Pot,  Calendula  officinalis. 

*  Marjoram,  Sweet,  Origanum  marjorana. 

*  Mint,  Spear,  Mentha  virides. 

*  Mint,  I'epper,  Mentha  piperita. 

*  Mint,  Penniroyal,  Mentha  pulegium. 

*  Sage,  Common,  Salvia  officinalis. 

*  Sage,  Red,  Salvia  clandesfinoides. 
Savory,  Summer,  Satureja  hortensis. 

*  Savory,  Winter,  Satureja  montana. 

*  Tarragon,  Artemisia  dracunculus. 

*  Thyme,  Common,  Thymus  vulgaris. 

*  Thyme,  Lemon,  Thymus serpy Hum. 

Aromatic  Herbs  are  such  as  impart  a  strong  spicy  odour 
and  savoury  taste ;  many  of  them  ai'e  used  as  small  pot  herbs, 
and  for  sauces,  stuffings,  and  other  uses  in  cooking.  As  only 
a  small  quantity  of  these  are  necessary  in  private  gardens,  a 
by-corner  may  be  allotted  for  them,  and  such  medicinal  herbs 
as  may  be  wanted  in  a  family. 

It  may  be  necessary  to  explain,  as  we  go  along,  that  there 
are  three  piincipal  descriptive  names  given  to  plants,  namely, 
Annuals,  Biennials,  and  Perennials.  The  Annuals  being  but 
of  one  season's  duration,  are  raised  every  year  from  seed. 
The  Biennials  are  raised  from  seed  one  year,  continue  tilL 
the  second,  then  perfect  their  seed,  and  soon  after  die;  some 
of  these  should  also  be  raised  every  year  from  seed.  The 
Perennials  may  be  raised  from  seed,  but  vi^hen  once  raised, 
they  will  continue  on  the  same  roots  many  years.     Those 


MEDICINAL   HERBS. 


107 


marked  *  are  of  the  latter  description,  and  may  be  propagated 
by  suckers,  offsets,  cuttings,  or  parting  the  roots.  Those 
who  have  not  ah-eady  a  plantation  of  these  herbs,  may  sow 
the  seed  of  any  of  the  different  kinds  in  April  or  May,  in 
drills  about  half  an  inch  deep,  and  twelve  inches  apart,  each 
kind  by  itself.  The  plants  may  afterward  be  transplanted 
into  separate  beds ;  or,  if  a  drill  for  each  kind  be  cli'awn  two 
feet  apart,  the  seed  may  be  sown  in  them,  and  the  plants 
afterward  thinned  out  to  proper  distances,  according  to  the 
natural  growth  of  the  different  kinds  of  plants. 


PLANTS  CULTIVATED  FOR  MEDICINAL  AND 
OTHER  PURPOSES. 

Graines  de  Plantes  Medicinal. 


Bene, 

Boneset,  or  Thoroughwort, 

•  Balm, 

Bean,  Castor  Oil, 
Burdock, 
Catnep, 
Celandine, 

•  Cliamomile, 

•  Comfrey, 

•  Elecampane, 
Feverfew, 

•  Horeliound, 

•  Horsemint. 

•  Hyssop, 

•  Lavender, 
Lovage, 

•  Mallow,  Marsh, 

•  Motherwort, 

•  Patience  Dock, 

•  Pinkroot,  Carolina, 
Poppy  Opium,  (annual,) 

•  Rosemary, 

•  Rue,  Garden, 
Saffron,  Bastard, 
Skullcap,  or  Mad  Dog  Plant. 
Snakeroot,  Virginian, 

•  Sorrel, 


Sesamum  orientale. 
Eupcdorium  perfnliatum. 
Melissa  officinalis. 
Reciniis  communis. 
Arciium  lappa. 
Nepefa  cat  aria. 
Chelidonum  majus. 
Anthemis  nohilis. 
Symphytum  officinale. 
Inula  helenium. 
Chrysanthcnntm  parthenium. 
Marubiam  vulgare. 
Monarda  punctata. 
Hyssupus  tfficinalis. 
Lavendtila  spica. 
Ligiisticum  levisticum. 
Altfiea  officinalis. 
Leonurus  cardiaca. 
Rumex  patentia. 
Spigelia  Marylandica. 
Papaver  somniferum. 
Rosmarinus  officinalis. 
Ruta  graveolens. 
Carttiamus  tinctorius. 
Scutellaria  lateriflora. 
AristolocMa  serpentaria. 
Rumex  acetosa. 


108  AROMATIC  HERBS,  ETC. 

•  Southernwood,  Artemisia  ahrotanum. 

•  Speedwell,  Virginian,  Veronica  Virginica. 

•  Spikenard,  Aralia  racemosa. 

•  Tansy,  Tanacelum  vulgare. 

•  Wormwood,  Artemisia  absinthium. 

The  generality  of  Aromatic,  Sweet,  and  Medicinal  Herbs 
may  be  raised  from  seed  sown  in  April  and  May.  The 
greater  part  of  the  above-mentioned  jilants  are  Perennial, 
and  will  multiply  from  the  seed  they  drop,  or  from  paitings 
from  the  roots.  The  offsets,  roots,  or  young  plants  thus 
raised,  should  be  planted  at  suitable  distances  from  each  other 
early  in  the  spring. 

The  beds  should  afterward  be  kept  free  from  weeds,  and 
as  the  herbs  come  into  flower,  they  should  be  cut  on  a  diy 
day,  and  spread  in  a  shady  place  to  dry,  for  winter  use.  The 
best  way  to  preserve  them  after  they  are  dried,  is  to  rub 
them  so  as  to  pass  them  through  a  sieve,  then  pack  them  in 
bottles  or  boxes,  each  kind  by  itself ;  they  should  be  after- 
ward kept  in  a  dry  place. 

In  the  month  of  October,  the  heib  beds  should  be  exam- 
ined. Lavender,  Rosemary,  and  other  tender  plants,  should 
be  taken  up,  potted,  and  placed  in  a  frame  or  greenhouse 
for  the  winter.  Thyme,  Hyssop,  Winter  Savory,  Southern- 
wood, Sage,  Rue,  and  the  like,  will  require  their  tops  to  be 
neatly  dressed ;  and  Pot  Maijoram,  Burnet,  Tarragon,  Tansy, 
Penniroyal,  Sorrel,  Chamomile,  Fennel,  Horehound,  Mint, 
Lovage,  and  other  kinds  of  hardy  Perennial  Herbs,  should 
be  cut  down  close  to  the  ground. 

After  this  is  done,  it  will  be  proper  to  dig  lightly,  and 
loosen  the  ground  between  the  roots  of  the  shrubby  plants ; 
but  the  beds  of  close-growing  running  plants,  such  as  Mint, 
Running  Thyme,  and  all  other  creeping  herbs,  will  not  well 
admit  of  digging ;  therefore,  after  the  stalks  are  cut  down, 
and  the  beds  cleared  of  weeds,  dig  the  alleys,  and  strew  some 
of  the  loose  earth  evenly  over  the  beds ;  and  if  the  ground 
be  rather  poor  or  light,  a  top  dressing  of  very  rotten  dung 
will  be  of  considerable  service. 


PLAX  OF  BEDS,  ETC,  109 

This  dressing  will  give  proper  nurture  and  protection  to 
the  roots  of  the  plants,  a  neat  appearance  to  the  garden,  and 
in  spring  the  shoots  will  rise  with  renewed  vigour. 

Having  finished  the  Catalogue,  I  will  now  proceed  to  give 
directions  for  making  the  most  of  a  piece  of  ground  well 
manured  for  early  crops.  In  the  general  directions  at  the 
commencement,  I  observed  that  good  rich  manure  was  indis- 
pensably necessary  to  the  production  of  some  particular 
kinds  of  vegetables ;  it  may  be  farther  observed,  that  rich 
gi'ound  will  produce  two  or  three  valuable  crops,  but  it  re- 
quires some  attention,  to  make  use  of  it  to  the  best  advan- 
tage. If  the  gardener  has  leisure  to  dig  such  ground  in 
Maixh  or  April,  as  he  intends  for  Beans,  Cucumbers,  Toma- 
toes, Egg-plants,  or  other  tender  plants,  he  may  raise  Ra- 
dishes, Spinach,  Lettuce,  or  other  small  salads  on  it,  by  leav- 
ing a  space  for  his  hills  or  drills ;  or  Radish  seed  may  be 
sown  lightly  over  the  beds  of  Beets,  Carrots,  Parsnips,  &:c.,  but 
they  must  not  be  suffered  to  run  to  seed,  as  this  would  injure 
the  other  plants.  When  the  first  crops  are  gathered,  it  requires 
a  little  consideration  before  a  second  is  planted,  in  order  that 
a  suflBcient  quantity  of  the  best  ground  may  be  resei'ved  for 
the  most  paiticular  and  valuable  varieties  of  vegetables. 

That  I  may  be  understood,  I  have  adopted  the  following 
plans,  representing  beds  of  earth ;  this  will  answer  the  same 
pui'pose  as  bringing  my  readers  on  the  ground. 

No.  1.  The  following  lines  represent  drills  six  inches  apart. 


March  25. — Sow   Parsley,  Onion,  or  other  smalJ   seed. 

March  25. — Sow  Radish  seed. 

March  25. — Sow  Parsley,  Onion,  or  other  small  seed. 

The  Radishes  being  pulled  early  in  May,  leaves  the  inter- 
mediate ground  for  the  other  plants. 

10 


110  PLAN  OF  BEDS,  ETC. 

No.  2.  Drills  ten  inches  apart. 


April  1. — Sow  Spinach,  or  Radish  seed. 


April  15. — Plant  early  Cabbage  Plants. 


April  1. — Sow  Spinach,  or  Kadish  seed. 

By  the  time  the  Cabbage  requires  the  whole  of  the  ground, 
the  Spinach  or  E,adishe.s  may  be  gathered. 

If  this  bed  be  cleared  of  the  second  crop  by  the  middle 
of  July,  it  may  be  planted  with  Celery,  Turnip,  or  Black 
Radish  seed.  If  the  Cabbage  be  of  the  late-heading  kinds, 
the  ground  may  be  reserved  for  the  first  sowing  of  Spinach, 
Fetticus,  Lettuce,  &;c.,  in  which  case  it  will  require  a  fresh 
coat  of  manure 


No.  3.  Drills  twelve  inches  apart. 


March  20. —  Plant  slips  or  cuttings  of  Horse-radish. 


March  20. — Plant  Turnip-rooted  Beet  seed. 


March  20. — Plant  slips  or  cuttings  of  Horse  radish. 

If  required,  a  light  crop  of  Radishes  may  be  raised  on 
this  bed,  which  should  be  pulled  while  young. 

Hoe  and  thin  out  the  Beets  as  they  progress  in  growth,  and 
when  full  grown,  they  may  be  gathered,  without  disturbing 
the  Horse-radish.     [See  article  Horse-radish.] 


PLAN  OP  BEDS,  ETC.  Ill 

No.  4.  Rows,  or  drills,  fourteen  inches  apart. 
March  20. — Plant  hardy  Lettuce  plants. 


March  20. — Pant  hardy  Lettuce  plants. 


Hoe  them  the  first  week  in  April ;  previous  to  hoeing  the 
second  time,  draw  a  drill  between  each  row  of  plants,  and 
plant  Beet  or  Carrot  seed ;  this  may  be  covered  up  in  hoe- 
ing the  Lettuce,  and  by  the  time  the  plants  are  up  strong, 
the  Lettuce  will  be  fit  to  cut.  If  these  roots  are  well  attended 
to,  they  may  be  cleared  off  soon  enough  to  produce  fall  Cab- 
bage, Leeks,  Celery,  Turnips,  Black  Radishes,  &c. 

No.  5.  Rows,  or  drills,  sixteen  inches  apart. 

March  25. — Plant  hardy  Lettuce  plants. 


March  2-5. — Plant  hardy  Lettuce  plants. 


April  20. — Plant  Early  York  Cabbage  plants,  either  between  the  rows  or 
between  the  Lettuce. 

As  soon  as  the  Lettuce  is  off,  hoe  the  Cabbage,  and  it  ivill 
soon  cover  the  ground. 

This  ground  will  be  suitable  for  a  crop  of  any  of  the  va- 
rieties above  mentioned,  except  Cabbage,  the  roots  of  which 
are  apt  to  get  defective,  if  the  same  ground  be  planted  with 
Cabbage  twice  in  succession. 

The  above,  or  preceding  plans,  present  a  fair  specimen  of 
what  may  be  done  on  a  small  piece  of  good  ground.     If  the 


112  HOT-BEDS. 

young  gardener  takes  the  trouble  to  keep  an  account  of  his 
transactions,  he  will  soon  make  discoveries  of  still  greater 
importance.  If  not  sufficiently  acquainted  with  the  different 
varieties  of  Cabbage  plants,  for  instance,  so  as  to  distinguish 
the  one  from  the  other,  by  making  a  memorandum  at  the 
time  of  sowing  the  seed,  will  soon  get  acquainted  with  the 
different  varieties  of  plants ;  he  will  also  discover  the  differ- 
ence in  the  growing  of  his  seed,  and  know  who  to  blame  if 
any  particular  kind  should  not  come  up. 


The  following  rejiresents  a  Hot-bed  with  four  sashes,  sown 
March  1  : 


Early  Dwarf, 

Early  Battersea, 

Early  Lettuce, 

Egg-plant 

Early  York, 

Drumhead,  or 

Tomato  Seed, 
Peppers, 

Seed.  &c. 
partitioned  off 

or  other  spring 

other  summer 

&c.  in  shallow 

as  directed  in 
note  to  article 

Cabbage  Seed. 

Cabbage  Seed. 

drills. 

Egg-plant. 

It  may  be  necessary  to  remind  my  readers  of  the  neces- 
sity of  being  always  prepared  to  sow  Cabbage,  Lettuce,  To- 
mato, and  Egg-plant  seed  in  hot-beds  the  last  week  in  Feb- 
ruary, or  early  in  March ;  for  this  purjiose,  let  some  fresh 
stable  dung  and  rich  compost  be  engaged  beforehand.  Some 
gardeners  make  their  beds  on  the  level  ground,  but  it  is 
always  safest  to  make  them  in  pits  from  eighteen  inches  to 
two  feet  deep  ;*  in  order  to  do  this,  the  pits  should  be  dug 

*  When  durable  heat  is  required  for  forcing  vegetables,  the  beds  should 
be  made  on  level  ground,  in  order  that  linings  may  be  applied  to  the  out- 
Bide  of  the  frame,  which,  by  frequent  renewal,  will  enliven  the  heat  of  the 
bed,  and  thus  bring  tender  vegetables  to  maturity,  which  would  otherwise 
suffer  from  a  decline  of  the  heat.  For  particular  directions,  see  Observa- 
tions on  Forcing  Vegetables  ;  albo,  article  on  Forcing  Asparagus. 


HOT-BEDS.  113 

in  autumn,  or  a  heap  of  dung  may  be  deposited  on  the 
ground  intended  for  the  beds  before  the  frost  sets  in,  and 
good  earth  may  be  obtained  from  the  pits  without  any  diffi- 
culty. 

The  frames  should  be  made  of  good  sound  planks ;  the 
back  plank  may  be  two  feet  wide,  and  the  end  ones  may  be 
so  sloped  as  to  make  a  fifteen-inch  plank  do  for  the  front. 
A  frame  calculated  for  four  sashes,  of  three  feet  in  width  by 
six  in  length,  as  above  described,  should  be  nearly  thirteen 
feet  long,  and  about  six  broad  at  the  top. 

The  frame  being  set  over  the  pit,  and  properly  fastened, 
the  fresh  dung  should  be  spread  regularly  in  the  pit  to  the 
depth  of  twenty  to  twenty-four  inches ;  if  the  dung  be  in  a 
good  heating  condition,  cover  it  six  or  eight  inches  deep 
with  mould,  then  lay  on  the  sashes,  and  protect  the  beds 
from  the  inclemency  of  the  weather.  In  two  or  three  days 
the  rank  steam  will  pass  off;  it  will  then  be  necessary  to  stir 
the  mould  before  the  seed  be  sown,  to  prevent  the  growth 
of  young  weeds  that  may  be  germinating ;  then  sow  the 
seed  either  in  shallow  drills  or  broad-cast,  as  equally  as  pos- 
sible, reserving  a  small  quantity  of  the  warm  mould  to  be 
sown  lightly  over  the  seed.  The  beds  should  afterward 
be  attended  to,  as  directed  for  Broccoli  and  Cauliflower. 
This  description  of  a  hot-bed  is  intended  expressly  for  the 
raising  of  Spring  Cabbage,  Lettuce,  Tomatoes,  and  such 
other  plants  as  may  be  required  for  early  planting.  Beds 
made  earlier  in  the  season,  or  for  forcing,  will  require  a 
greater  quantity  of  manure.  [See  Calendar  for  January, 
February,  and  March.] 


10' 


114 


OBSERVATIONS 


FORCING    VEGETABLES 


Before  I  commenced  prepaiing  this  work  for  the  press, 
I  intended  to  have  written  largely  on  the  subject  of  forcing 
fruits  as  well  as  vegetables ;  but  when  I  considered  my 
motto,  and  that  I  was  writing  for  young  gardeners,  I  con- 
cluded to  occupy  my  pages  in  such  a  manner  as  to  effect  the 
greatest  possible  good  at  the  smallest  expense.  Of  the  seve- 
ral branches  of  Horticulture,  some  are  of  greater  importance 
than  others  ;  and  as  the  products  of  the  kitchen  garden  form 
important  articles  of  food  for  the  bulk  of  mankind,  it  should 
be  our  first  cai'e  to  treat  largely  on  the  subject  of  this  most 
useful  part  of  gardening.  Next  to  this  is  the  cultivation  of 
fruits,  and  the  production  of  ornamental  plants  and  flowers, 
each  of  which  will  be  noticed  in  their  respective  departments. 

As  I  stand  pledged  to  offer  some  remarks  on  forcing,  or 
rather  forwarding  vegetables,  by  artificial  means,  1  shall  en- 
deavour to  confine  my  observations  to  such  points  as  are  of 
primary  importance ;  and  in  order  to  convince  my  readers 
of  the  importance  of  this  subject,  I  shall  first  endeavour  to 
show  the  utility  of  an  artificial  climate  suited  to  the  various 
species  of  useful  plants.  In  England,  a  regular  succession 
of  vegetables  can  be  obtained  from  the  natural  ground  every 
month  in  the  year,  and  the  fruits  of  that  country,  from  the 
summer  heat  being  moderate,  are  of  longer  continuance 
than  with  us,  and  yet  the  English  make  gardening  a  science, 
and  employ  the  elements,  as  well  as  the  ingenuity  of  man, 
in  the  production  of  fruits  and  vegetables  out  of  the  ordinary 
season. 


ON   FORCING   VEGETABLES.  115 

I  shall  not  attempt  to  treat  of  the  cultivation  of  Pine- 
apples, Grapes,  Cherries,  or  other  fruits  gi-own  in  forcing- 
houses  ;  nor  would  it  be  advisable  with  us  to  undertake  to 
raise  Cucumbers,  INIelons,  &c.,  in  frames  throughout  the  se- 
vere winters  of  our  Northern  States  ;  but  it  must  be  acknow- 
ledged, that  the  extreme  heat  of  our  summers  is  as  detri- 
mental to  the  cultivation  of  some  of  the  most  valuable  kinds 
of  fruits  and  vegetables,  as  the  coldness  of  our  winters,  and 
for  these  reasons,  artificial  aid  is  more  necessary  here  in  the 
winter  and  spring  of  the  year  than  in  England.  The  inhabi- 
tants of  that  country  obtain  a  supply  of  the  different  varieties 
of  Artichokes,  Broad  Beans,  Borecole,  Broccoli,  Cauliflower, 
Kale,  Lettuce,  Radishes,  Rhubarb,  Spinach,  Turnips,  and 
salads  in  general,  a  great  part  of  the  year  from  their  kitchen 
gardens,  whereas,  if  we  were  to  attempt  to  supply  our  mar- 
kets with  culinary  vegetables  at  all  times,  in  any  thing  like 
the  abundance  that  they  have  them  there,  we  must,  out  of  the 
ordinary  season  for  gardening  operations,  turn  our  attention  to 
the  protecting  and  forwarding,  as  well  as  the  forcing  system. 

Before  I  proceed  to  show  the  method  of  forcing  vegeta- 
bles, it  may  be  necessary  for  me  to  remind  my  readers,  that 
in  providing  an  artificial  climate,  they  should  consider  the 
nature  of  the  plants  they  intend  to  cultivate,  and  endeavour 
to  supply  them  with  that  which  is  best  calculated  to  nourish 
and  support  them.  I  have,  in  another  part  of  this  work, 
endeavoured  to  show,  that  heat,  light,  air,  and  moisture,  are 
each  essential  to  vegetation,  and  that  these  should  be  sup- 
plied in  a  judicious  manner,  according  to  circumstances. 

In  the  midst  of  our  Northern  winter,  which  is  the  usual 
time  for  forcing  in  England,  we  are  subject  to  north-west 
winds,  which  produce  extreme  freezing.  Now,  as  we  have 
not  yet  discovered  how  to  make  an  artificial  air,  it  will  not 
be  safe  for  the  gardener  to  raise  a  bottom  heat  under  any 
kind  of  vegetable,  until  such  times  as  he  can  impart  a  tole- 
rable share  of  salubrious  air,  as  the  heat  without  air  will 
eoon  destroy  the  fruits  of  his  labour. 


116  ON   FORCING   VEGETABLES. 

Perhaps  the  safest  time  to  commence  foicing  in  frames, 
is  soon  after  the  middle  of  February,  and  the  early  part  of 
March.  I  before  hinted,  that  the  depth  of  heating  materials 
must  be  regulated  by  the  season  of  the  year  at  which  the 
work  is  commenced,  and  also  to  the  purposes  for  which  the 
hot-beds  are  intended.  Beds  used  for  the  purpose  of  raising 
half-hardy  plants,  or  for  procuring  seedling  plants  late  in  the 
spring,  may  be  made  in  the  manner  recommended  for  the 
common  hot-bed ;  but  if  substantial  heat  is  required  to  be 
kept  up,  the  beds  must  be  so  contrived  as  to  admit  of  linings 
as  the  heat  decreases ;  and  the  dung  should  undergo  a  regu- 
lar process  of  preparation,  according  to  the  use  it  is  intended 
for.  Compost  heaps  should  also  be  provided,  in  order  to 
furnish  suitable  mould  to  the  different  species  of  plants ;  for 
this  purpose,  all  the  old  hot-bed  dung  and  mould,  leaves,  tan, 
turf,  sand,  and  other  light  manures  and  decayed  animal  dung, 
should  be  collected  together. 

In  some  cases,  when  a  slight  hot-bed  is  recommended  for 
forwarding  hardy  plants,  if  it  should  happen  that  a  seedling 
Cucumber  bed  be  at  liberty,  it  may  answer  every  purpose 
for  Radishes,  Lettuce,  or  other  hardy  jilants ;  or  such  a  bed 
may  be  spawned  for  Mushroons,  if  required. 

If  the  forcing  be  commenced  before  the  coldest  of  the 
winter  is  past,  great  precaution  must  be  used,  lest  the  plants 
be  injured  by  cold  cutting  winds,  or  destroyed  by  heat  for 
want  of  air.  To  prevent  the  former  accident,  warm  dung 
should  be  placed  around  the  frames,  and  the  sashes  covered 
with  mats  and  boards  every  night.  If  full  air  cannot  be  ad- 
mitted in  the  day  time,  the  sashes  must  be  slidden  down  to 
let  off  the  steam ;  at  the  same  time  mats  may  be  laid  over 
tlie  aperture,  to  prevent  cold  air  entering  to  the  plants. 

If  the  bottom  heat  in  a  bed  be  too  violent,  which  is  some- 
times the  case,  means  must  be  used  to  decrease  it.  This  is 
generally  effected  by  making  holes  in  the  bed  with  a  stake 
sharpened  at  the  end,  or  with  a  crow-bar ;  which  holes  should 
be  filled  up  when  the  heat  is  sufficiently  reduced.     In  lining 


FORCING   ASPARAGUS.  117 

hot-beds,  if  tlie  heat  is  reduced  in  the  body  of  the  beds,  holes 
may  be  carefully  made  to  admit  heat  from  tlie  fresh  linings, 
so  as  to  enliven  the  heat  of  the  bed. 

A  Fahrenheit  thermometer  should  always  be  at  hand  at 
the  time  of  forcing,  to  be  used,  when  necessary,  to  regulate 
the  heat  in  the  beds ;  and  the  water  that  is  used  in  cultiva- 
ting plants  in  frames,  should  be  warmed  to  the  temperature 
of  the  air,  or  according  to  the  heat  required  for  the  various 
kinds  of  plants,  which  will  be  showai  in  the  annexed  articles. 


FORCING  ASPARAGUS  IN  HOT-BEDS. 

As  Asparagus  is  apt  to  grow  weak  and  slender  by  extreme 
bottom  heat,  it  is  forced  with  greater  success,  and  with  less 
trouble,  in  flued  pits  in  a  hot-house,  than  in  dung  hot-beds, 
because  the  heat  from  tan  is  more  regular ;  but  a  very  suita- 
ble bed  may  be  formed  in  a  deep  hot-bed  frame,  made  in  the 
usual  way.  If  dung  alone,  or  a  mixture  of  dung  and  leaves, 
be  used,  it  should  be  in  a  state  past  heating  violently  before 
it  is  made  into  a  bed ;  but  if  the  gardener  has  no  choice  of 
materials,  he  may  make  his  hot-bed  in  the  usual  way,  and  if 
the  depth  of  heating  materials  be  two  feet,  he  may  lay  on  a 
foot  of  old  hot-bed  dung,  tan,  or  any  light  compost,  that  will 
admit  of  the  heat  passing  through  it. 

It  may  be  necessary  to  state  farther,  that  though  too  much 
bottom  heat  should  be  avoided,  heat  is  necessaiy  to  the  pro- 
duction of  the  vegetable  in  a  moderate  time,  which  is  gene- 
rally effected  in  a  month  or  six  weeks  after  the  commence- 
ment of  the  operations.  For  the  pui'pose  of  keej^ing  up  a 
regular  heat,  a  lining  of  hot  dung  should  be  applied  around 
the  frame,  and  changed  as  occasion  requires. 

Provide  plants  from  two  to  four,  or  even  six  years  old, 
trim  their  roots,  and  place  them  in  rows  on  the  beds ;  Avhen 
one  row  is  laid,  strew  a  little  mould  among  the  roots,  then 
proceed  in  the  same  way  with  one  row  after  another,  keep- 


118  FORCING   ASPARAGUS. 

ing  them  on  a  level,  as  the  surface  of  the  bed  at  first  lay, 
till  you  have  finished  planting  them ;  then  lay  among  the 
buds  and  roots  some  fine  vegetable  or  other  rich  mould,  work 
it  in  among  them  vvdth  your  fingers,  and  cover  the  beds  over 
about  an  inch  thick ;  and  upon  that,  lay  three  inches  in 
depth  of  vegetable  mould  not  very  rotten,  old  tan,  or  any 
other  light  compost  that  will  admit  the  water  to  run  quickly 
through. 

If  thei'e  be  a  strong  heat  in  the  bed,  slide  down  the  sashes 
till  it  begins  to  decline.  The  temperature  at  night  should 
never  be  under  50",  and  it  may  rise  to  65°  without  injury ; 
when  the  buds  begin  to  appear,  as  much  air  must  be  daily 
admitted  as  the  weather  will  permit.  In  two  or  three  days 
after  the  beds  are  planted,  the  heat  will  begin  to  rise :  the 
beds  should  then  have  a  moderate  supply  of  water,  applied 
from  a  watering-pot  with  the  the  rose  on ;  repeat  such 
watering  every  three  or  four  days. 

When  the  buds  are  up  three  inches  above  the  surface, 
they  are  fit  to  gather  for  use,  as  they  will  then  be  six  or  seven 
inches  in  length.  In  gathering  them,  draw  aside  a  little  of 
the  mould,  slip  down  the  finger  and  thumb,  and  twist  them 
off  from  the  crown  :  this  is  a  better  method  than  to  cut  them ; 
at  least,  it  is  less  dangerous  to  the  rising  buds,  which  come 
up  thick  in  succession. 

An  ordinal  y-sized  frame  calculated  for  three  sashes  will 
hold  from  three  to  five  hundred  plants,  according  to  their  age 
and  size,  and  will,  if  properly  managed,  yield  a  dish  every 
day  for  about  three  weeks.  On  the  above  estimate,  if  a  con- 
stant succession  of  Asparagus  be  required,  it  will  be  neces- 
sary to  plant  a  bed  every  eighteen  or  twenty  days. 

Rhubarb  and  Sea-Kale  may  be,  and  sometimes  are,  forced 
in  the  same  manner  as  Asparagus ;  but  the  most  general 
mode  is  to  excite  them  where  they  stand  in  the  open  garden, 
by  the  application  of  warm  dung. 


FORWARDING    BEANS.  119 

FORWARDING  BROAD  BEANS,  OR  ENGLISH 
DWARFS. 

In  the  article  Broad  Beans,  {Vicia  faha,)  I  have  already 
urged  the  necessity  of  early  planting,  in  order  that  a  full 
crop  may  be  insured  before  the  approach  of  warm  weather ; 
but  as  the  ground  is  often  frozen  at  the  time  they  ought  to 
be  planted,  some  of  the  best  kinds  may  be  planted  in  boxes, 
and  placed  in  a  moderate  hot-bed  in  February,  or  early  in 
March.  If  the  plants  thus  raised  be  not  made  too  tender, 
they  may  be  transplanted  into  the  open  ground  the  latter  end 
of  March ;  this  will  enable  them  to  produce  their  fruit  early 
in  June. 

Or  if  a  heap  of  manure  be  sjiread  thick  on  a  piece  of 
ground  late  in  autumn,  it  will  keep  the  earth  from  freezing; 
and  if  this  manure  be  removed  in  February,  and  a  frame 
placed  over  the  spot  and  protected  from  extieme  cold,  the 
seedlings  may  be  raised  therein,  and  transplanted  into  the 
garden,  as  directed  in  article,  page  39. 

Those  who  have  not  the  convenience  of  hot-beds  or  frames, 
may,  in  the  month  of  February,  plant  some  of  the  seed  about 
two  inches  deep  in  boxes  kept  in  the  cellar,  or  in  earth  on 
the  floor,  which  will  produce  plants  fit  to  transplant  in  the 
open  garden  toward  the  latter  end  of  March  or  early  in  April. 


FORCING  KIDNEY  BEANS. 

The  most  dwarfish  kinds  of  Kidney  Beans  may  be  raised 
in  hot-beds ;  but  they  require  a  substantial  heat  to  mature 
them.  The  temperature  within  the  frames  should  be  kept 
up  to  60%  and  may  rise  to  70^  or  75°,  provided  the  steam  be 
let  off".  In  order  to  insure  sufficient  heat  to  bring  them  into 
a  bearing  state,  the  plants  may  be  first  raised  in  small  pots 
plunged  into  a  hot-bed,  or  a  small  bed  may  be  prepared. 


120  FORWARDIXG    BROCCOLI   AND    CAULIFLOWER. 

earthed  over  with  hght  rich  compost,  six  inches  deep,  and 
tlie  Beans  jilanted  therein,  and  covered  one  inch. 

The  second  hot-bed  should  be  earthed  over  to  the  depth 
of  eight  or  nine  inches,  and  the  Beans  transplanted  as  soon 
as  they  are  two  or  three  inches  high,  in  cross  lows  twelve 
or  fifteen  inches  apart,  by  three  or  four  inches  in  the  rows, 
or  in  clumps  a  foot  ajjart.  When  the  season  is  so  far  advanced 
that  one  bed,  with  the  help  of  linings,  will  bring  the  plants 
well  into  fruit,  the  seed  may  be  planted  at  once  to  remain 
for  podding ;  or  if  the  gardener  should  choose  to  mature  his 
crop  in  the  open  gi-ound,  he  may  raise  his  plants  in  boxes  or 
pots  in  the  month  of  April,  and  plant  them  out  in  a  warm 
border  early  in  May. 

Beans  raised  in  hot-beds  will  require  considerable  atten- 
tion. Cover  the  glasses  every  night  with  mats  and  boards ; 
admit  fresh  air  every  mild  day,  give  occasional  gentle  water- 
ings, and  earth  them  up)  carefully  as  they  jDrogress  in  growth, 
to  strengthen  them. 


FORWARDING  BROCCOLI  AND  CAULIFLOWER. 

In  treating  of  the  method  of  cultivating  this  family  of 
plants,  in  the  articles  under  each  head,  I  recommended  an 
artificial  climate  to  be  provided  for  them,  so  as  to  induce 
them  to  arrive  at  full  perfection  in  the  winter  and  early  part 
of  the  spring.  Gardeners  who  have  provided  frames  for  the 
purpose  of  making  hot-beds,  in  the  spring,  may  make  use 
of  them  through  the  winter,  in  protecting  Broccoli  and  Cau- 
liflower; and  as  the  frames  will  not  be  wanted  until  the  se- 
verity of  the  winter  is  past,  such  plants  as  are  left  at  that 
season  may  be  protected  by  a  covering  of  boards,  straw,  or 
litter,  as  occasion  may  require. 

If  Cauliflower  be  requii'ed  early  in  the  summer,  the  plants 
raised  in  the  preceding  autumn  should  be  transplanted  from 
the  beds  into  the  open  ground,  in  the  month  of  March,  and 


FORCING    CUCUMBERS.  121 

be  protected  by  hand  glasses.  This  would  insure  their  heading 
before  the  approach  of  extreme  warm  weather,  which  is 
very  injurious  to  Cauliflower. 


FORCING  CUCUMBERS. 

To  produce  Cucumbers  at  an  early  season,  should  be  an 
object  of  emulation  with  every  gardener.  The  business  of 
forcing  them  should  commence  about  eight  or  ten  weeks 
before  the  fruit  is  desired,  and  a  succession  of  plants  should 
be  raised  to  provide  for  accidents.  Some  choose  the  Short 
Prickly,  others  the  Long  Green  and  AVbite  Spined  ;  and  seed 
two  or  three  years  old  is  generally  preferred,  as  it  is  not  so  apt 
to  run  to  vines. 

The  seed  is  generally  sown  in  pots  or  boxes  of  light  rich 
mould,  and  placed  in  a  hot-lxjd,'  and  some  sow  the  seed  in 
the  eaith  of  a  small  bed  prepared  for  the  purpose.  In  either 
case,  as  soon  as  the  plants  have  fully  expanded  their  two 
seed  leaves,  they  may  be  transplanted  into  pots,  putting 
three  plants  in  each  pot ;  when  this  is  done,  apply  water 
warmed  to  the  temperature  of  the  bed,  and  shut  down  the 
glasses,  keeping  them  a  little  shaded  by  throwing  a  mat  over 
the  glass,  till  the  plants  have  taken  root.  When  they  are 
about  a  month  old,  they  will  be  fit  to  transplant  into  the  fruit- 
ing bed. 

To  prepare  the  dung  properly,  is  of  the  greatest  impor- 
tance in  forcing  the  Cucumber,  and  if  not  done  before  it  is 
made  into  a  bed,  it  cannot  be  done  afterward,  as  it  requires 
turning  and  managing  to  cause  it  to  ferment  freely  and 
sweetly.  Fresh  dung  from  the  stable  should  be  laid  in  a  heap, 
turned  three  times,  and  well  mixed  with  a  fork ;  if  any  ap- 
pears dry,  it  should  be  made  wet,  always  keeping  it  between 
the  two  extremes  of  wet  and  dry,  that  the  whole  may  have 
ei  regular  fermentation. 

A  dry  situation  should  be  chosen  on  which  to  form  beds, 
11 


122  FORCING   CUCUMBERS. 

BO  that  no  water  can  settle  under  the  dung.  Tne  substance 
of  dung  from  the  bottom  of  the  bed  should  be  from  three  to 
four  feet,  according  to  the  season  of  planting,  and  the  mould 
should  be  laid  on  as  soon  as  the  bed  is  settled,  and  has  a 
lively,  regular-tempered  heat.  Lay  the  earth  evenly  over 
the  dung,  about  six  inches  deep ;  after  it  has  lain  a  few^  days 
examine  it,  and  if  no  traces  of  a  burning  effect  are  disco- 
vered, by  the  mould  turning  of  a  whitish  colour  and  caking, 
it  will  be  fit  to  receive  the  plants ;  but  if  the  earth  appears 
burned,  or  has  a  rank  smell,  some  fresh  sweet  mould  should 
be  provided  for  the  hills,  and  placed  in  the  frame  to  get 
warm ;  at  the  same  time,  vacancies  should  be  made  to  give 
vent  to  the  steam,  by  running  down  stakes. 

After  the  situation  of  the  bed  has  been  ascertained,  and 
the  heat  regulated,  tlie  hole  should  be  closed,  and  the  earth 
formed  into  hills ;  raise  one  hill  in  the  centre  under  each 
sash,  so  that  the  earth  is  brought  to  within  nine  inches  of 
the  glass  ;  in  these  hills,  plant  three  seedlings,  or  turn  out 
such  as  may  be  in  pots,  vdth  the  balls  of  earth  about  their 
roots,  and  thus  insert  one  patch  of  three  plants  in  the  mid- 
dle of  each  hill.  The  plants  should  be  immediately  watered 
with  Avater  heated  to  the  temperature  of  the  bed,  and  kept 
shaded  till  they  have  taken  root. 

The  temperature  should  be  kept  up  to  60°,  and  may  rise 
to  80°  without  injury,  provided  the  rank  steam  be  allowed 
to  pass  off;  therefore,  as  the  heat  begins  to  decline,  timely 
linings  of  well-prepared  dung  must  be  applied  all  round  the 
frame.  Begin  by  lining  the  back  part  first ;  cut  away  the 
old  dung  perpendicularly  by  the  frame,  and  form  a  bank  two 
feet  broad,  to  the  height  of  a  foot,  against  the  back  of  the 
frames  ;  as  it  sinks,  add  more  ;  renew  the  linings  round  the 
remainder  of  the  bed  as  it  becomes  necessary,  and  be  care- 
ful to  let  off  the  steam,  and  give  air  to  the  plants  at  all  op- 
portunities. 

Give  necessary  waterings,  mostly  in  the  morning  of  a  mild 
day,  in  early  forcing ;  and  in  the  afternoon,  in  the  advanced 


FORCING    CUCUMBERS.  123 

season  of  hot  sunny  weather.  Some  use  water  impregnated 
with  sheep  or  pigeon  dung.  As  the  roots  begin  to  spread, 
and  the  vines  to  run,  the  hills  should  be  enlarged  by  gather- 
ing up  the  earth  around  them,  for  which  purpose  a  supply 
of  good  mould  should  be  kept  ready  at  hand,  to  be  used  as 
required. 

Wlien  the  plants  have  made  one  or  two  joints,  stop  them, 
by  pinching  off  the  tops,  after  which  they  generally  jiut  forth 
two  shoots,  each  of  which  let  run  till  they  have  made  one  or 
two  clear  joints,  and  then  stop  them  also  ;  and  afterward  con- 
tinue throughout  the  season  to  stop  them  at  every  joint;  this 
will  strengthen  the  plants,  and  promote  their  perfecting  the 
fruit  early. 

The  following  artificial  023eration  is  recommended  by 
Abercrombie,  Phial,  and  other  writers,  as  essential  to  the 
production  of  a  full  crop  of  Cucumbers  under  glass.  In 
plants  more  freely  exposed  to  the  open  air,  the  impregnation 
is  effected  by  nature.  Those  which  some  call  false  blossoms 
are  the  male  flowers,  and  are  indispensable  in  this  operation. 

"  The  Cucumber,"  Abercrombie  observes,  "  bears  male 
and  female  blossoms  distinctly  on  the  same  plant.  The  lat- 
ter only  produce  the  fruit,  which  appears  first  in  miniature, 
close  under  the  base,  even  before  the  flower  expands.  There 
is  never  any  in  the  males ;  but  these  are  placed  in  the  vici- 
nity of  the  females,  and  are  absolutely  necessary,  by  the  dis- 
persion of  their  farina,  to  impregnate  the  female  blossom ; 
the  fruit  of  which  will  not  otherwise  swell  to  its  full  size, 
and  the  seed  will  be  abortive.  The  early  plants  under  glass, 
not  having  the  full  current  of  natural  air,  nor  the  assistance 
of  bees  and  other  winged  insects  to  convey  the  faiina,  the 
artificial  aid  of  the  cultivator  is  necessary  to  effect  the  im- 
pregnation. At  the  time  of  fructification,  watch  the  plants 
daily;  and  as  soon  as  the  female  flowers  and  some  male 
blossoms  are  fully  expanded,  proceed  to  set  the  fruit  the 
same  day,  or  next  mornmg  at  farthest.  Take  off  a  male 
blossom,  detaching  it  with  part  of  the  footstalk.     Hold  this 


124  FORWARDING   LETTUCE. 

between  the  finger  and  thumb  ;  pull  away  the  flower  leaves, 
or  petals,  close  to  the  stamens  and  antherae,  or  central  part, 
which  apply  close  to  the  pistil  in  the  bosom  of  the  female 
flower,  twirling  it  a  little  about,  to  discharge  thereon  some 
particles  of  the  fertilizing  powder.  Proceed  thus  to  set 
every  fruit,  as  the  flowers  of  both  sorts  open,  while  of  a  lively 
full  expansion  ;  and  generally  perform  it  in  the  early  part  of 
the  day,  using  a  fresh  male,  if  possible,  for  every  impregna- 
tion, as  the  males  are  usually  more  abundant  than  the  female 
blossoms.  By  this  management,  the  young  fruit  will  soon  be 
observed  to  swell  freely." 

Cucumbers  attain  the  proper  size  for  gathering  in.  from 
fifteen  to  twenty  days  after  the  time  of  setting ;  and  often 
in  succession  for  two  or  three  months  or  more,  in  the  same 
beds,  by  good  culture. 


FORWARDING  CUCUMBERS  UNDER  HAND 
GLASSES. 

If  it  be  desired  to  have  Cucumbers  in  the  open  garden  at 
an  early  season,  the  plants  may  be  raised  in  pots  as  before 
directed,  and  planted  in  a  warm  border  either  in  the  earth, 
or  in  hot-bed  ridges.  A  hand-glass  should  be  provided  for 
each  hill,  which  must  be  kept  close  down  every  night  and  in 
cool  days,  taking  care  to  admit  air  when  practicable.  The 
plants  may  be  hardened  by  degrees,  by  taking  off"  the  glass 
in  the  heat  of  the  day,  and  as  the  weather  gets  warm  they 
may  be  left  to  nature. 


FORWARDING  LETTUCE  FOR  USE  IN  WINTER. 

Head  Lettuce  may  be  cultivated  for  use  in  the  winter 
season  by  means  of  gentle  hot-beds,  or  in  cold-beds  made 
in  the  manner  recommended  for  the  raising  of  early  Cabbage 


FORCING    MUSHROOMS.  125 

plants,  &c.  (See  article  Cabbage.)  For  such  Head  Lettuce 
as  may  be  wanted  for  use  before  Christmas,  the  Hardy  Green, 
the  Loco  Foco,  and  Coss,  are  the  most  suitable  kinds  to 
sow ;  and  plants  may  be  raised  in  the  open  border  by  sow- 
ing seed  two  or  three  times  between  the  middle  of  August 
and  the  first  week  in  September.  The  plants  from  these 
sowings  may  be  set  out,  about  six  inches  apart,  in  cold-beds, 
when  they  are  one  or  two  inches  high. 

In  September  and  early  in  October,  some  of  the  Silesia, 
Sugar  Loaf,  Butter  Lettuce,  or  any  other  esteemed  sorts, 
may  be  sown  in  a  cold-bed  frame,  which,  with  the  aid  of 
sashes,  will  produce  plants  in  from  a  month  to  six  weeks ; 
these  being  planted  in  gentle  hot-beds  in  November  and 
December,  will  produce  Head  Lettuce  until  a  plentiful  sup- 
ply can  be  obtained  from  the  open  borders.  The  same  at- 
tention is  necessary,  as  respects  the  protection  of  these  beds, 
as  for  other  half-hardy  plants. 


FOECING  MUSHROOMS  AT  ALL  SEASON'S. 

The  ^garinis  is  said  to  be  the  most  extensive  genus  in 
the  vegetable  kingdom.  The  species  are  determined  upon 
various  principles.  As  some  of  the  kinds  are  poisonous,  it 
is  necessary  to  describe  the  eatable  Mushroom.  Loudon 
says,  it  is  most  readily  distinguished  when  of  a  middle  size, 
by  its  fine  pink  or  flesh-coloured  gills,  and  jDleasant  smell. 
In  a  more  advanced  age,  the  gills  become  of  a  chocolate 
colour,  and  it  is  then  more  apt  to  be  confounded  with  other 
kinds  of  dubious  quality ;  but  that  species  which  most  nearly 
resembles  it,  is  slimy  to  the  touch,  destitute  of  fine  odour, 
and  has  a  disagreeable  smell. 

Again :  the  noxious  kinds  grow  in  woods,  while  the  ti'ue 
Mushroom  springs  up  chiefly  in  open  pastures,  and  should 
be  gathered  only  in  such  places. 

Unwholesome /itng't  will  sometimes  spring  up  on  artificial 
11* 


126  FORCING    MUSHROOMS. 

beds  in  gardens ;  thns,  when  the  spawn  begins  to  run,  a 
spurious  breed  is  often  found  to  precede  a  crop  of  genuine 
Mushrooms.  The  poisonous  toad-stoul,  Agariciis  ciroctis, 
may  generally  be  detected  by  the  presence  of  a  sickly,  nau- 
seous smell,  though  some  hurtful  kinds  are  so  free  from  any 
thing  disagreeable  in  the  smell,  as  to  make  any  criterion, 
drawn  from  that  alone,  very  unsafe.  The  wholesome  kinds, 
however,  invariably  emit  a  grateful,  rich  odour.  The  Aga- 
ricus  campestris  is  most  generally  cultivated.  Dr.  Witheiing 
mentions  other  eatable  varieties,  which  gi'ow  considerably 
larger,  but  are  inferior  in  flavour ;  he  says  "  that  a  plant  of 
the  variety  Georgia  was  gathered  in  an  old  hot-bed  at  Bir- 
mingham, which  weighed  fourteen  pounds ;  and  Mr.  Stack- 
house  found  one  fifty-four  inches  in  circumference,  having  a 
8tem  as  thick  as  a  man's  wrist." 

Mushrooms  may  be  obtained  at  any  season  of  the  year, 
by  a  proper  regulation  of  the  time  and  manner  of  forming 
the  beds.  A  good  crop  is  sometimes  collected  without  ma- 
king a  bed  on  purpose,  by  introducing  lumps  of  spawn  into 
the  top  mould  of  old  hot-beds. 

The  methods  of  procuring  and  propagating  spawn,  and 
of  forming  Mushroom  beds,  are  numerous.  Indigenous 
spawn  may  be  collected  in  pasture  lands  in  September  and 
October,  or  it  may  be  found  in  its  strength  and  purity  in  the 
paths  of  mills  worked  by  horses,  or  in  any  other  horse-walks 
under  shelter;  it  is  frequently  found  in  old  hot-beds  and 
dunghills  in  the  summer  season,  and  Mushrooms  of  good 
quality  may  often  be  seen  beginning  to  form  on  the  surface, 
like  large  peas ;  when  these  are  absorbed,  it  is  time  to  take 
out  the  spawn,  which  is  generally  in  hard,  dry  lumps  of  dung, 
the  spawn  having  the  appearance  of  whitish  coarse  pieces 
of  thread.  The  true  sort  has  exactly  the  smell  of  a  Mush- 
room. If  spawn  thus  collected  be  required  for  immediate 
use,  it  may  be  planted  in  the  beds  at  once,  or  it  will  kee]> 
three  or  four  years,  if  laid  to  dry  with  the  earth  adhering  to 
it,  and  afterward  placed  in  a  warm,  dry  shed,  where  there 


FOnciNG    MUSHROOMS.  127 

li  a  current  of  air ;  but  if  it  be  not  completely  dried,  the 
spawn  will  exhaust  itself  or  perish,  as  it  will  not  bear  the 
extremes  of  heat,  cold,  or  moisture. 

Such  of  my  readers  as  may  have  hitherto  been  unac- 
quainted with  the  cultivation  of  Mushrooms,  must  perceive, 
from  the  preceding  remarks,  that  a  Mushroom  bed  is  simply 
a  heap  of  animal  dung  and  earth,  so  tempered  as  to  be  ca- 
pable of  producing  and  preserving  spawn ;  but  in  order  to 
have  fruitful  spawn  at  all  times,  it  should  be  so  formed  as 
to  be  always  at  command.  To  this  end,  a  quantity  of  fresh 
horse  droppings  mixed  with  short  litter,  should  be  collected  ; 
add  to  this  one  third  of  cow  dung,  and  a  small  portion  of 
good  earth,  to  cement  it  together;  mash  the  whole  into  a 
thin  compost,  like  grafting  clay ;  then  foim  it  in  the  shape 
of  bricks  ;  which  being  done,  set  them  on  edge,  and  frequent- 
ly turn  them  until  half  dry ;  then  with  a  dibble  make  one  or 
two  holes  in  each  brick,  and  insert  in  each  hole  a  piece  of 
spawn  the  size  of  an  egg :  the  bricks  should  then  be  laid 
where  they  can  dry  gradually.  When  dry,  lay  dry  horse 
dung  on  a  level  floor,  six  or  eight  inches  thick ;  on  this,  pile 
the  bricks,  the  spawn  side  uppermost.  When  the  pile  is 
snugly  formed,  cover  it  with  a  small  portion  of  fresh  warm 
horse  dung,  sufficient  in  quantity  to  produce  a  gentle  glow 
through  the  whole.  When  the  spawn  has  spread  itself 
through  every  part  of  the  bricks,  the  process  is  ended,  and 
they  may  be  laid  up  in  any  dry  place  for  use.  Mushroom 
spavvTi,  made  according  to  this  receipt,  will  preserve  its  ve- 
getating powers  for  many  years,  if  well  dried  before  it  is  laid 
up  ;  if  moist,  it  will  grow,  and  soon  exhaust  itself. 

Mushroom  beds  are  often  formed  in  ridges  in  the  open 
air,  covered  with  litter  and  mats,  so  as  to  prevent  heavy 
rains  exciting  a  fermentation ;  and  sometimes  in  ridges  of  the 
same  sort  under  cover,  as  in  the  open  sheds  of  hot-houses. 
They  are  also  made  in  close  sheds  behind  hot-houses,  or  in 
houses  built  on  purpose,  called  Mushroom-houses.  A  mo- 
derately warm,  light  cellar  is  peculiarly  suited  for  the  pur- 


128  FORCING    MUSHROOMS. 

pose  in  the  ■v\dnter  season,  as  no  fire  is  necessary,  and  but 
little  water,  the  applicatioii  of  which  frequently  proves  inju- 
rious, when  not  judiciously  managed.  Mushrooms  may  also 
be  raised  in  pots,  boxes,  hampers,  &:c.,  placed  in  warm  situa- 
tions ;  in  old-beds,  in  pits  with  glazed  frames,  and  in  dark 
frames  or  pits. 

The  general  way  of  making  Mushroom  beds,  is  to  prepare 
a  body  of  stable  dung,  moderately  fermented,  about  a  yard 
in  thickness,  more  or  less,  according  to  the  size  and  situa- 
tion in  which  the  bed  is  to  be  formed ;  when  the  strong  heat 
has  subsided,  an  inch  of  good  mould  may  be  laid  over  it, 
and  the  spawn  planted  therein  in  rows  five  or  six  inches 
apart;  after  this  is  done,  another  layer  of  mould,  an  inch 
thick,  may  be  added,  and  then  a  coat  of  straw.  Beds  well 
consti'ucted  will  produce  Mushrooms  in  five  or  six  weeks, 
and  will  continue  to  produce  for  several  months,  if  care  be 
taken  in  gathering,  not  to  destroy  the  young  ones.  As 
Mushrooms  are  gathered,  from  time  to  time,  the  straw  should 
be  spread  carefully  over  the  bed. 

Beds  made  in  a  convenient  place,  where  there  is  space  all 
around,  may  be  formed  so  as  to  make  four  sloping  surfaces, 
similar  to  the  roof  of  a  house ;  this,  by  being  spawned  on 
the  four  sides,  will  yield  abundantly.  The  celebrated  Mr. 
Nichol  makes  his  beds  without  spawn.  The  following  are 
his  directions,  taken  from  Loudon's  Encyclopoedia  of  Gar- 
dening : 

"  After  having  laid  a  floor  of  ashes,  stones,  chips,  gravel, 
or  brick-bats,  so  as  to  keep  the  bed  quite  diy  and  free  from 
under  damp,  lay  a  course  of  horse-droppings  six  inches  thick. 
These  should  be  new  from  the  stables,  and  must  not  be 
broken,  and  the  drier  the  better.  They  may  be  collected 
every  day  vmtil  the  whole  floor  or  sole  be  covered  to  the 
above  thickness ;  but  they  must  not  be  allowed  to  fennent 
or  heat.  In  the  whole  process  of  making  up,  the  bed  should 
be  as  much  exposed  to  the  air  as  possible ;  and  it  should  be 
carefully  defended  from  wet,  if  out  of  doors.     When  this 


FORCING    MUSHROOMS.  129 

course  is  quite  dry,  and  judged  to  be  past  a  state  of  fermen- 
tation, cover  it  to  the  thickness  of  two  inches  with  light,  dry- 
earth  ;  if  sandy,  so  much  the  better.  It  is  immaterial  whe- 
ther it  be  rich  or  not,  the  only  use  of  earth  here  being  for 
spawn  to  run  and  mass  in.  Now  lay  another  course  of  drop- 
pings, and  earth  them  over  as  above,  when  past  a  state  of 
fermentation  :  then  a  third  course,  which,  in  like  manner, 
earth  all  over.  This  finishes  the  bed,  which  will  be  a  very 
strong  and  productive  one,  if  properly  managed  afterward. 

"  Observe,  that  in  forming  the  bed,  it  should  be  a  little 
rounded,  in  order  that  the  centre  may  not  be  more  wet  or 
moist  than  the  sides.  This  may  be  done  in  forming  the  sole 
or  floor  at  first,  and  the  bed  would  then  be  of  equal  strength 
in  all  parts.  If  it  be  made  up  against  a  wall  in  a  cellar, 
stable,  or  shed,  it  may  have  a  slope  of  a  few  inches  from  the 
back  to  the  front,  less  or  more,  according  to  its  breadth.  I 
have  sometimes  been  contented  with  two  courses  as  above, 
instead  of  three ;  and  often,  when  materials  were  scarce, 
have  made  them  up  slighter,  thus :  three  four-inch  courses 
of  droppings,  with  one  inch  of  earth  between  each,  and  a 
two-inch  covering  at  top.  Such  a  bed  as  this,  I  have  had 
produce  for  ten  or  twelve  months  together ;  but  very  much 
depends  on  the  state  of  the  materials,  and  on  the  cai'e  taken 
in  making  it  up,  also  on  the  after  management. 

"  The  droppings  of  hard-fed  horses  only  are  useful.  Those 
of  horses  kept  on  green  food  will,  of  themselves,  produce 
few  or  no  mushrooms.  I  have  made  up  beds  from  farm 
horses,  fed  partly  on  hard  and  partly  on  green  food,  and 
from  carriage  or  saddle  horses,  fed  entirely  on  corn  and  hayj 
treated  them  in  the  same  way  in  every  respect ;  and  have 
found,  not  once,  but  always,  those  made  from  the  latter  most 
productive.  Droppings  from  hard-fed  horses  may  be  pro- 
cured at  the  public  stables  in  towns,  or  at  inns  in  the  coun- 
try, any  time  of  the  year ;  and  if  the  supply  be  plentiful,  a 
bed  of  considerable  dimensions  may  be  made  and  finished 
within  five  or  six  weeks.     In  as  many  more  weeks,  if  in  a 


130  FORCING    MUSHROOMS. 

Stable  or  dry  cellar,  or  a  fluecl  slied,  it  will  begin  to  produce, 
and  often  sooner ;  but  if  the  situation  of  the  bed  be  cold,  it 
will  sometimes  be  two  or  three  months  in  producing  Mush- 
rooms." 

It  may  be  necessary  to  state  farther,  that  extremes  of  heat, 
cold,  drought,  and  moisture,  should  be  avoided  in  the  culti- 
vation of  Mushrooms.  If  the  temperature  keeps  up  to  50°  in 
the  winter,  the  beds  will  be  safe,  and  the  heat  in  the  beds 
may  rise  to  60'  or  even  70"  without  injury.  Air  also  must 
be  admitted  in  proportion  to  the  heat,  and  60°  should  be 
aimed  at  as  a  medium  temperature.  Water,  when  given  a 
little  at  a  time,  is  better  than  too  much  at  once,  after  the 
spawn  has  begun  to  spread  ;  and  the  water  for  this  purpose 
should  always  be  made  blood  warm.  A  light  covering  of 
straw  may  be  used  to  preserve  moisture  on  the  surface  ;  and 
if  the  beds  are  made  in  open  frames,  or  otherwise  subject  to 
exposure,  the  straw  may  be  laid  thicker  than  on  beds  made 
in  a  cellar. 

Should  beds  fail  in  producing  Mushrooms  after  having 
been  kept  over  hot  or  wet,  it  may  be  inferred  that  the  spawn 
is  injured  or  destroyed ;  but  if,  on  the  contrary,  a  bed  that 
has  been  kept  moderately  warm  and  dry,  should  happen  to 
be  unproductive,  such  bed  may  be  well  replenished  with 
warm  water,  and  a  coat  of  warm  dung  may  be  laid  over  the 
whole.  If  this  does  not  enliven  the  bed  after  having  lain  a 
month,  take  off  the  earth ;  and  if,  on  examination,  there  is 
no  appearance  of  spawn,  the  whole  may  be  destroyed ;  but 
if,  on  the  contrary,  the  bed  should  contain  spawn,  it  may  be 
renovated  by  covering  it  again,  especially  if  any  small  tuber- 
cles be  discernible ;  if  the  heat  should  have  declined,  the 
spawn  may  be  taken  out  and  used  in  a  fresh  bed.  If  beds 
De  formed  in  hot-bed  frames  under  glass,  some  mats  or  straw 
must  be  laid  over  the  glass  to  break  off  the  intense  heat  of 
the  sun. 

Although  only  one  species  of  edible  fungi  has  yet  been 
inti'oduced  into  the  garden,  there  are  several  eatable  kinds. 


FORWARDING  MELONS  UNDER  HAND-GLASSES.  131 

In  Poland  and  Russia  there  are  above  thirty  kinds  in  com- 
mon use  among  the  peasantry.  They  are  gathered  at  diffe- 
rent stages  of  their  growth,  and  used  in  various  vv^ays  :  raw, 
boiled,  stewed,  roasted ;  and  being  hung  up,  and  dried  in 
their  stoves  and  chimneys,  form  a  part  of  their  winter  stock 
of  provisions.  Great  caution  is  necessary  in  collecting 
Mushrooms  for  food,  and  none  but  the  botanist  should  gather 
any  but  the  kinds  we  have  described.*  Physicians  say, 
"  That  all  the  edible  species  should  be  thoroughly  masticated 
before  they  are  taken  into  the  stomach,  as  this  greatly  lessens 
the  effect  of  poisons.  When  accidents  of  the  sort  happen, 
vomiting  should  be  immediately  excited,  and  then  the  vege 
table  acids  should  be  given,  either  vinegar,  lemon  juice,  or 
that  of  apples  ;  after  which,  give  ether  and  anti-spasmodic 
remedies,  to  stop  the  excessive  vomiting.  Infusions  of  gall- 
nut,  oak  bark,  and  Peruvian  bark,  are  recommended  as  capa- 
ble of  neutralizing  the  poisonous  principle  of  Mushrooms." 
It  is,  however,  the  safest  way  not  to  eat  any  but  the  well- 
known  kinds. 


FORWARDING  MELONS  UNDER  HAND-GLASSES. 

Although  our  citizens  have  an  opportunity  of  procuring 
Melons  without  artificial  aid,  yet,  as  their  continuance  is  short, 
it  may  not  be  amiss  to  remind  the  gardener  that  the  direc- 
tions already  given  for  maturing  Cucumbers  under  glass  will 
apply  to  Melons,  with  very  few  exceptions  ;  care,  however, 
must  be  taken  that  they  be  kept  away  from  each  other  at  the 
time  of  fruiting,  as  instances  often  occur  of  whole  crops 
being  entirely  ruined,  by  plants  of  the  same  genus  being 


*  In  order  to  ascertain  whether  what  appear  to  be  Mushrooms  are  of  the 
true  edible  kinds,  sprinkle  a  little  salt  over  the  inner  or  spongy  part ;  if,  in 
a  short  time  after,  they  turn  yellow,  they  are  unwholesome  ;  but  if  black, 
they  may  be  considered  as  genuine  Mushrooms. 


132  FORCING   PEAS    IN   HOT-BEDS. 

raised  too  near  each  other.  Those  who  wish  to  forward 
Melons,  may  prepare  a  hot-bed  in  March  or  April,  to  raise 
plants  in ;  the  beds  may  be  formed  and  the  plants  managed 
in  precisely  the  same  manner  as  is  directed  for  Cucumbers. 
If  the  ridging  system  be  adopted,  and  a  hand-glass  applied 
to  each  hill,  Melons  may  be  obtained  one  month  earlier  than 
the  usual  time. 

Gardeners  raising  Melons  for  the  supply  of  city  markets, 
may  giatify  the  public  taste  early  in  the  season,  by  pursuing 
the  forwarding,  if  not  the  forcing  system.  Ridges  may  be 
prepared  in  the  following  manner  :  In  April  or  May,  a  trench 
may  be  dug  in  a  warm  border,  about  two  feet  deep  and 
three  wide,  and  of  sufficient  length  for  as  many  hand-glasses 
as  are  intended  to  be  employed,  allowing  three  feet  for  every 
hill.  Some  good  heating  manure  should  bo  laid  in  the  pits, 
managed  the  same  as  a  common  hot-bed ;  to  this  must  be 
added  good  rich  mould  to  the  depth  of  eight  or  ten  inches 
for  the  plants  to  grow  in ;  as  soon  as  the  mould  is  warm,  the 
seedlings  may  be  planted,  three  plants  in  each  hill,  after 
which  the  hand-glasses  should  be  set  on,  and  shaded.  After 
the  plants  have  taken  root  and  began  to  grow,  the  glasses 
should  be  raised  in  fine  days,  and  propped  up  so  as  to  admit 
fresh  air ;  and  as  the  warm  weather  progresses,  they  may  be 
taken  off  in  the  middle  of  fine  days  so  as  to  harden  the 
plants  gradually  to  the  v/eather ;  and  by  the  latter  end  of 
May  they  may  be  left  to  nature. 


FORCING  PEAS  IN  HOT-BEDS. 

The  best  kinds  of  Peas  to  force,  are  those  that  are  the 
most  dwarfish,  and  the  seed  is  better  for  being  two  or  three 
years  old,  as  they  will  bear  earlier,  and  make  less  straw. 
Peas  run  less  to  vine  by  being  transplanted,  than  when  they 
are  sown  where  they  are  to  remain ;  the  plants  may  be  raised 
in  a  gentle  hot-bed,  either  in  the  earth  of  the  bed,  or  in  pots 


FORCING    POTATOES.  133 

or  boxes.  They  do  not  require  excessive  heat ;  the  tempe- 
rature must  be  progressive  ;  beginning  at  about  50^  for  the 
nursery-bed,  and  from  that  to  60^  or  65°  for  fruiting. 

When  the  leaves  of  the  plants  are  fairly  expanded,  they 
may  be  transplanted  into  rows  from  twelve  to  eighteen  inches 
apart ;  observe,  the  earth  in  the  fruiting  bed  should  be  from 
twelve  to  eighteen  inches  in  depth. 

As  the  Peas  pi  ogress  in  growth,  the  earth  should  be  stir- 
red ;  and  when  six  inches  high,  small  sticks  may  be  applied, 
so  that  the  tendrills  of  the  Peas  may  easily  take  hold ;  and 
they  should  be  moulded  at  the  bottom  to  enable  them  to  sup- 
port themselves. 

When  they  are  in  blossom,  nip  the  top  off;  this  greatly 
promotes  the  forming  and  filling  of  the  pods ;  they  will  re- 
quire to  be  regularly  watered,  and  as  the  spring  advances 
they  may  be  exposed  to  the  weather,  taking  care  to  shelter 
them  in  the  event  of  a  sudden  chang^e. 


FORCING  POTATOES  IN  HOT-BEDS. 

Potatoes  may  be  forced  in  a  great  variety  of  ways.  Those 
who  attempt  to  matuie  Potatoes  in  frames,  will  of  course 
provide  such  of  the  earliest  kinds  as  are  not  inclined  to  pro- 
duce large  tops  ;  the  Broughton  Dwarf,  Early  Mule,  Nonpa- 
reil, the  Oak,  and  the  Ash-leaved,  are  of  this  description. 

Potatoes  may  be  forwarded  in  giowth  previous  to  being 
planted  in  the  beds,  by  placing  them  in  a  warm,  damp  cellar. 
Some  forward  them  in  pots  and  boxes,  and  afterward  mature 
them  in  a  hot-bed ;  others  plant  them  in  the  bed  at  once,  in 
which  case  the  bed  should  be  moulded  from  fifteen  to  twenty 
inches  deep,  and  the  heating  materials  should  be  sufficient 
to  keep  up  a  moderate  heat  for  two  or  three  months. 

I*erhaps  the  most  convenient  way  to  force  Potatoes  in  this 
climate,  is  to  provide  pots  for  the  purpose ;  plant  one  set  in 
each  pot  in  January,  and  set  them  in  a  warm  cellar,  till  a  bed 

12 


( 

134  FORWARDING    RADISHES,  ETC. 

can  be  prepared  in  February,  in  which  put  the  pots.  While 
the  tuberous  roots  are  forming,  and  before  they  fill  the  pots, 
prepare  the  beds  for  maturing  them,  and  then  bury  them  in 
the  mould  with  the  balls  of  earth  attached  to  them. 

The  beds  should  be  kept  free  from  frost,  and  air  should 
be  given  at  every  opportunity.  The  common  round  Potatoes 
may  be  forwarded,  by  laying  them  thick  together  in  a  slight 
hot-bed  in  March,  and  when  they  are  planted  in  the  borders, 
a  quantity  of  comb-maker's  shavings  may  be  deposited  in 
each  hill ;  this  will  gi'eatly  promote  their  growth. 


FORWARDING  RADISHES,  &c. 

Radishes  may  be  obtained  early  in  the  spring  by  means 
of  a  moderate  hot-bed.  The  earth  in  the  frame  should  be 
a  foot  in  depth,  and  air  should  be  admitted  every  day  after 
they  are  up,  or  they  will  incline  more  to  tops  than  roots.  If 
they  come  up  too  thick,  they  should  be  thinned  to  one  or 
two  inches  apart.  Give  gentle  waterings  as  occasion  re=- 
quires,  and  keep  them  well  covered  in  cold  nights. 

For  raising  early  Radishes  without  frames,  hot-beds  may 
be  made  in  ridges,  and  arched  over  with  hoop  bends,  or 
pliant  rods,  which  should  be  covered  with  mats  at  night,  and 
during  the  day  in  very  cold  weather.  In  moderate  days, 
turn  up  the  mats  at  the  warmest  side  ;  and  on  fine  mild  days, 
take  them  wholly  off,  and  harden  the  plants  gradually  to  the 
weather. 

Turnips,  Carrots,  Onions,  or  any  kind  of  salads  or  pot 
herbs,  may  be  raised  in  the  same  way,  by  sowing  the  seed  in 
drills  and  keeping  the  ground  clear  of  weeds. 


FORWARDING    RHUBARB.  "    135 

FORWARDING  RHUBARB. 

Those  who  may  desire  to  have  this  excellent  substitute  for 
fruit  at  an  early  season,  may  procure  it  without  much  trouble. 
It  is  customary  with  some  persons  in  the  southern  parts  of 
England,  to  keep  this  plant  growing  in  their  kitchens,  so  that 
they  may  have  it  for  use  at  any  time.  They  have  strong 
neat  boxes,  made  for  the  purpose,  about  three  feet  deep  and 
two  wide,  and  in  length  according  to  the  demand,  from  four 
to  eight  feet ;  these  being  kept  clean,  have  the  appearance 
of  flour-bins,  and  they  are  sometimes  so  contnved  as  to  have 
shelves  over  them  in  imitation  of  a  kitchen  dresser.  The 
plants  being  taken  up  out  of  the  garden  towards  winter,  are 
placed  as  close  at  the  bottom  of  the  box  as  they  can  be,  with 
their  crowns  level :  and  some  sand  being  thrown  over,  suf- 
ficient to  fill  up  the  interstices,  and  to  cover  the  crowns 
about  half  an  inch,  finishes  the  operation.  No  farther 
trouble  is  necessary,  except  to  give  a  little  water,  just  to  keep 
the  roots  moist,  as  they  need  no  fight  at  all ;  and  if  the  roots 
be  planted  in  the  garden  when  spring  opens,  they  will,  after 
having  taken  root,  vegetate  as  strongly  as  before  they  were 
removed. 

Roots  of  Rhubarb  taken  up  in  the  autumn,  packed  in  sand, 
and  deposited  in  a  warm  cellar,  will  produce  stalks  earlier 
than  if  kept  in  the  garden ;  and  if  placed  in  hot-beds  they 
will  yield  abundantly,  and  that  at  a  very  early  season. 

The  consumption  of  this  plant  in  the  British  metropolis 
may  be  judged  of  by  the  following  extract  from  the  London 
Gardener's  Magazine  :  "  Rhubarb,  which  has  for  some  years 
been  cultivated,  is  still  a  subject  of  increasing  interest,  and 
more  extensively  in  demand  than  ever.  On  the  fifth  of  May, 
no  less  than  eight  wagon  loads,  each  weighing  at  least  a  ton, 
with  an  equal  quantity  in  smaller  proportions,  were  sold  in 
Covent  Garden  market  alone.  One  cultivator,  Mr.  Myatt, 
of  New  Cross,  Deptford,  had  three  wagon  loads ;  he  has,  I 
believe,  nearly  twenty  acres  of  it  under  culture."     This  plant 


136  FORWARDING   TOMATOES, 

contains  an  acid  as  fine  as  the  Gooseberry,  for  pies  and  tarts ; 
a  square  rod  of  ground  will  supply  a  family ;  and  it  may  be 
used  till  midsummer  or  later.  [For  fuller  explanations,  see 
article  Rhubarb.] 


FORWARDING  SALAD  HERBS,  SMALL  PLANTS, 

&c. 

For  the  purpose  of  raising  Mustard,  Cress,  and  other  salad 
herbs,  also  Egg-plants,  Tomato  plants,  &c.,  in  small  quanti- 
ties, a  hot-bed  may  be  made,  early  in  the  spring,  of  good 
heating  materials,  on  the  top  of  which  may  be  laid  leaf  mould, 
old  tan,  or  light  compost,  to  the  depth  of  about  nine  inches. 
The  various  kinds  of  seed  may  be  sown  in  boxes  or  flower- 
pots, and  plunged  in  the  top  mould  up  to  their  rims,  and  by 
being  well  attended  to,  a  supply  of  small  salads,  as  well  as 
small  seedling  plants,  may  be  raised  without  much  labour  or 
difficulty.  This  method  is  also  well  calculated  for  raising 
annual  flower  plants  at  an  early  season. 


FORWARDING  TOMATOES. 

As  this  vegetable  has  become  highly  appreciated  of  late 
years  for  its  excellent  qualities,  it  may  be  necessary  here  to 
observe,  that  plants  raised  from  seed  sown  in  hot-beds  the  lat- 
ter end  of  February,  or  early  in  March,  as  directed  in  former 
pages,  will  grow  to  the  length  of  four  inches  and  upward  by 
the  first  of  April,  which  is  one  month  earlier  than  they  can 
with  safety  be  trusted  in  the  open  garden.  If  a  few  of  these 
be  pulled  from  the  hot-bed,  and  transplanted  into  flower-pots, 
they  may  be  kept  growing  therein  until  settled  warm  weather, 
and  then  turned  out  and  deposited  in  the  ground  with  the 
balls  of  earth  entire  ;  or  a  fruiting-bed  may  be  prepared  by 
the  first  of  April,  in  the  manner  recommended  for  Bush 


FORCING   VEGETABLES.  137 

Beans,  Cucumbers,  Sec,  and  tlie  plants  inserted  in  the  earth 
at  once ;  these  will  produce  ripe  fruit  a  month  or  six  weeks 
earlier  than  those  cultivated  in  the  ordinary  way. 


FORCING  VARIOUS  KINDS  OF  VEGETABLES. 

The  following  simple  method  of  forcing  vegetables  on  a 
small  scale  is  recommended  by  a  correspondent  of  a  London 
magazine  : 

"  Mushrooms  in  winter  I  obtain  by  a  very  simple,  though 
not  a  new  process.  Provide  boxes  three  feet  long,  and  one 
foot  eight  inches  deep ;  a  quantity  of  horse  droppings,  per- 
fectly dry ;  some  spawn  and  some  light  dry  soil.  Fill  the 
boxes  by  layers  of  dropj^ings,  spawn,  and  soil,  which  must 
be  trodden  perfectly  tlglit ;  repeat  these  triple  layers  till  the 
boxes  are  full,  and  all  trodden  firmly  together. 

"  Four  such  boxes  at  work  are  sufficient  for  a  moderate 
demand  ;  and  of  a  dozen,  four  brought  in  at  a  time,  and 
placed  upon  a  flue  of  a  green-house  stove,  will  produce  a 
fine  supply.  The  surface  of  these  portable  beds  may  be 
covered  with  a  little  hay,  and  occasionally,  though  spaiingly, 
watered.  It  is  not  absolutely  necessary  that  they  be  set  on 
the  flue  of  a  green-house  ;  a  warm  stable,  cellar,  or  any  other 
similar  place,  will  suit  equally  well.  This  plan  is  also  con- 
venient for  affording  a  plentiful  stock  of  superior  spawn, 

"  The  same  sized  boxes  will  also  do  for  Asparagus ;  but 
for  this  pui-jiose  a  sufficient  stock  of  three-year-old  plants 
must  be  at  hand ;  also  eighteen  boxes,  four  of  which  are  the 
necessary  set  to  be  forced  at  one  time  for  a  middling  family. 
Half  fill  the  boxes  with  decayed  tanner's  bark,  leaf  mould, 
or  any  similar  mould  ;  on  this,  pack  the  roots  as  thickly  as 
possible,  and  fill  up  the  boxes  with  the  bark,  &:c.  Any  place 
in  a  forcing-house  will  suit  them :  on  the  flue,  under  the 
stage,  or,  in  short,  any  place  where  they  can  enjoy  the  ne- 

12* 


138  FORCING   VEGETABLES. 

cessary  degree  of  heat.  Besides  Asparagus  and  Mush- 
rooms, Sea-Kale,  Buda-Kale,  Angelica,  small  salad,  as  also 
various  pot  herbs,  may  be  raised  in  the  same  manner." 

Those  who  have  not  the  conveniences  recommended  in  a 
green-house,  &c.,  may  place  the  boxes  in  a  hot-bed.  The 
glasses  being  laid  on,  and  the  beds  covered  at  night,  will  soon 
promote  the  growth  of  the  plants,  and  produce  vegetable 
luxuries  at  a  season  when  garden  products  in  general  are 
comparatively  scarce. 

It  is  unnecessary  to  show  of  how  much  value  such  pro- 
cesses may  be  in  minor  establishments,  or  in  a  young  country. 
I  wish  it  to  be  understood,  that  in  order  to  the  successful 
cultivation  of  some  of  the  rare  vegetables  I  have  treated  of, 
great  pains  must  be  taken  in  every  stage  of  their  growth. 
If  the  advice  I  have  given  be  attended  to,  I  flatter  myself 
we  shall  soon  obtain  a  supply  of  many  of  these  luxuries  of 
the  garden.  My  directions  are  founded  on  the  success 
attending  the  practice  of  some  of  the  best  gardeners  in  this 
country.  I  have  also  had  sufficient  experience  to  warrant 
me  in  this  attempt  to  contribute  my  mite  toward  the  attain- 
ment of  thb  kind  of  useful  knowledge. 


METHOD    OF    CULTIVATING   TIIE    HOP.  139 

METHOD  OF  CULTIVATING  THE  HOP. 
HouBLON.     Hiimtilus  lupuhis. 

Although  the  Hop  is  not  a  culinary  vegetable,  yet,  as  it 
is  more  or  less  used  in  every  part  of  our  country,  it  may  not 
be  amiss  to  treat  of  its  culture.  It  is  presumed,  that,  in  pro- 
portion as  habits  of  temperance  are  inculcated,  our  citizens 
will  have  recourse  to  beer  as  a  wholesome  beverage ;  and  as 
a  great  deal  depends  on  the  manner  in  which  Hops  are 
cured,  I  propose  giving  dii'ections  for  their  management 
throughout,  so  as  to  enable  those  who  choose,  to  prepare 
their  own.  INIy  information  is  collected  chiefly  from  Loudon's 
Encyclopcedia  of  Plants. 

"  The  Hop  has  been  cultivated  in  Europe  an  unknovim 
length  of  time  for  its  flowers,  which  are  used  for  preserving 
beer.  Its  cultui-e  was  introduced  from  Flanders  in  the  reign 
of  Henry  the  Eighth ;  though  indigenous  both  in  Scotland 
and  Ireland,  it  is  little  cultivated  in  those  countries,  owing  to 
the  humidity  of  their  autumnal  season.  Like  other  plants 
of  this  sort,  the  Hop  bears  its  flowers  on  different  individuals  ; 
the  female  plants,  therefore,  are  alone  cultivated.  There 
are  several  varieties  grown  in  Kent  and  Surrey,  under  the 
name  of  Flemish,  Canterbury,  Goldings,  &c. ;  the  first  is  the 
most  hardy,  differing  little  from  the  Wild  or  Hedge  Hop  ; 
the  Golding  is  an  improved  and  highly  productive  variety, 
but  more  subject  to  blight  than  the  other.* 

"  The  Hop  prefers  a  deep  loamy  soil  on  a  dry  bottom ;  a 
sheltered  situation,  but  at  the  same  time  not  so  confined  as 
to  prevent  a  free  circulation  of  air.  The  soil  requires  to  be 
well  pulverized  and  manured  previous  to  planting.  In  Hop 
districts,  the   ground   is   generally  trenched    either  with   a 

•  Besides  these  are  the  Farnham,  or  Golden  Grape,  which  is  cultivated 
for  an  early  crop  ;  and  for  late  picking,  the  Mayfield  Grape,  or  Ruffler,  is 
esteemed,  which  is  a  dwarfish  variety.  Great  caution  is  necessary,  lest  the 
varieties  get  mixed,  as  they  will  not  ripen  or  dry  equally,  and  consequently 
cannot  be  of  one  uniform  colour  and  quality. 


140  METHOD    OF    CULTIVATING    THE    HOP. 

plough  or  spade.  The  mode  of  planting  is  generally  in  rows 
six  feet  apart,  and  the  same  distance  in  the  row.  By  some, 
five,  six,  or  seven  plants,  are  placed  in  a  circular  form,  which 
circles  are  distant  five  or  six  feet  from  each  other.  The 
plants  or  cuttings  are  procured  from  the  most  healthy  of  the 
old  stools ;  each  should  have  two  joints  or  buds :  from  the 
one  which  is  placed  in  the  ground  springs  the  root,  and  fi'ora 
the  other  the  stalk.  Some  plant  the  cuttings  at  once  where 
they  are  to  remain,  and  by  others  they  are  nursed  a  year  in 
a  garden.  An  interval  crop  of  Beans  or  Cabbage  is  gene- 
rally taken  the  first  year.  Sometimes  no  poles  are  placed 
at  the  plants  till  the  second  year,  and  then  only  short  ones 
of  six  or  seven  feet.  The  third  year  the  Hop  generally 
comes  into  full  bearing,  and  then  from  four  to  six  poles, 
from  fourteen  to  sixteen  feet  in  length,  are  placed  to  each 
circle,  or  one  pole  to  each  plant,  if  cultivated  in  straight 
rows.  The  most  durable  timber  for  poles  is  that  of  the  Span- 
ish Chesnut. 

"  The  after  culture  of  the  Hop  consists  in  stirring  the  soil, 
and  keeping  it  free  from  weeds ;  in  guiding  the  shoots  to  the 
poles,  and  sometimes  tying  them  for  that  pui-pose  with  bass 
or  withered  rushes ;  in  eradicating  supei-fluous  shoots  which 
may  rise  from  the  root,  and  in  raising  a  small  heap  of  earth 
over  the  root  to  nourish  the  plant. 

"  Hops  are  known  to  be  ready  for  gathering  when  the 
chaffy  capsules  acquire  a  brown  colour,  and  a  firm  consist- 
ence. Each  chaffy  capsule,  or  leaf  calyx,  contains  one  seed. 
Before  these  are  picked,  the  stalks  are  detached,  and  the 
poles  pulled  up,  and  placed  horizontally  on  frames  of  wood, 
two  or  three  poles  at  a  time.  The  Hops  are  then  picked  off" 
by  women  and  children.  After  being  carefully  separated 
from  the  leaves  and  stalks,  they  are  dropped  into  a  large 
cloth  hung  all  round  within  the  frame  on  tenter  hooks. 
When  the  cloth  is  full,  the  Hops  are  emptied  into  a  large 
sack,  which  is  carried  home,  and  the  Hops  laid  on  a  kiln  to 
be  dried.     This  is  always  to  be  done  as  soon  as  possible  after 


METHOD    OF    CULTIVATIXG    THE    HOP.  141 

they  are  picked,  or  they  are  apt  to  sustain  considerable 
damage,  both  in  colour  and  flavour,  if  allowed  to  remain 
long  in  the  green  state  in  which  they  are  picked.  In  very- 
warm  weather,  and  when  they  are  picked  in  a  moist  state, 
they  will  often  heat  in  five  or  six  hours ;  for  this  reason,  the 
kilns  are  kept  constantly  at  work,  both  night  and  day,  from  the 
commencement  to  the  conclusion  of  the  Hop-picking  season. 

"  The  operation  of  drying  Hops  is  not  materially  different 
from  that  of  drying  malt,  and  the  kilns  are  of  the  same  con- 
struction. The  Hops  are  spread  on  a  hair  cloth,  from  eight 
to  twelve  inches  deep,  according  as  the  season  is  dry  or  wet, 
or  the  Hops  ripe  or  immature.  When  the  ends  of  the  Hop 
stalks  become  quite  shrivelled  and  dry,  they  are  taken  off 
the  kiln,  and  laid  on  a  boarded  floor  till  they  become  quite 
cool,  when  they  are  put  into  bags. 

"  The  bagging  of  Hops  is  thus  performed  :  in  the  floor  of 
the  room  where  Hops  are  laid  to  cool,  there  is  a  round  hole 
or  trap,  equal  in  size  to  the  mouth  of  a  Hop-bag.  After 
tying  a  handful  of  Hops  in  each  of  the  lower  corners  of  a 
large  bag,  \vhich  serve  after  for  handles,  the  mouth  of  tho 
bag  is  fixed  securely  to  a  strong  hoop,  which  is  made  to  rest 
on  the  edge  of  the  hole  or  trap ;  and  the  bag  itself  being 
then  dropped  through  the  hole,  the  packers  go  into  it,  when 
a  person  who  attends  for  the  pui-pose,  puts  in  the  Hops  in 
small  quantities,  in  order  to  give  the  packer  an  opportunity 
of  packing  and  trampling  them  as  hard  as  possible.  When 
the  bag  is  filled,  and  the  Hops  trampled  in  so  hard  that  it 
will  hold  no  more,  it  is  drawn  up,  unloosed  from  the  hoop, 
and  the  end  sewed  up,  two  other  handles  having  been  pre- 
viously formed  in  the  corners  in  the  manner  mentioned  above. 
The  brightest  and  finest  coloured  Hops  are  put  into  pockets 
or  fine  bagging,  and  the  brown  into  coarse  or  heavy  bagging. 
The  former  are  chiefly  used  for  brewing  fine  ale,  and  the 
latter  by  the  porter  brewers.  But  when  Hops  are  intended 
to  be  kept  two  or  three  years,  they  are  put  into  bags  of  strong 
cloth,  and  firmly  pressed  so  as  to  exclude  the  air. 


142  METHOD    OF    CULTIVATING   THE    HOP. 

"  The  stripping  and  stacking  of  the  poles  succeed  to  the 
operation  of  picking.  The  shoot  or  bind  being  stripped  off, 
such  poles  as  are  not  decayed,  are  set  up  together  in  a  coni- 
cal pile  of  three  or  four  hundred,  the  centre  of  which  is 
formed  by  three  stout  poles  bound  together  a  few  feet  from 
their  tops,  and  their  lower  ends  spread  out. 

"  The  produce  of  no  crop  is  so  liable  to  variation  as  that 
of  the  Hop ;  in  good  seasons  an  acre  will  produce  20  cwt., 
but  from  10  to  12  cwt.  is  considered  a  tolerable  average  crop. 
The  quality  of  Hops  is  estimated  by  the  abundance  or  scarcity 
of  an  unctuous  clammy  powder  which  adheres  to  them,  and 
by  their  bright  yellow  colour.      The  expenses  of  forming  a 
Hop  plantation  are  considerable  ;  but  once  in  bearing,  it  will 
continue  so  for  ten  or  fifteen  years  before  it  requires  to  be 
renewed.     The  Hop  is  peculiarly  liable  to  diseases ;  when 
young  it  is  devoured  by  fleas  of  different  kinds ;   at  a  more 
advanced  stage,  it  is  attacked  by  the  green  fly,  red  spider, 
and  ottermoth,  the  larvae  of  which  prey  even  upon  their  roots. 
The  honey-dew  often  materially  injures  the  Hop  crop ;   and 
the  mould,  the  fire-blast,  and  other  blights,  injure  it  at  differ- 
ent times  toward  the  latter  period  of  the  growth  of  the  plant." 
It  appears  from  an  article  in  the  '  Genesee  Farmer,'  that 
the  cultuie  of  Hops  is  becoming  an  important  branch  of  hus- 
bandry in  the  State  of  New-York.  A  correspondent  observes, 
that  "  as  fine  samples  have  been  grown  in  Orange  and  Ma- 
dison counties  as  in  any  part  of  the  world.     The  Hop  is  con- 
sidered somewhat  precarious ;  but  when  the  season  is  good, 
the  profit  is  very  great.     The  average  product  may  be  stated 
at  700  lbs.,  though  it  has  reached  1,600  lbs.  to  the  acre  ;  and 
in  the  latter  case   the  expenses  amounted  to  sixty  dollars. 
The  ordinary,  or  average  price,  may  be  stated  at  eighteen 
cents  per  pound.     The  profits  on  an  ordinary  crop,  accord- 
ing to  these  assumed  data,  would  be  about  seventy  dollars  to 
the   acre.     It  often  falls  materially  short  of  this,  however, 
from  the  want  of  knowledge  and  care  in  gathering  and  dry- 
ing the  crop. 


METHOD    OP    CULTIVATING    THE    HOP.  143 

"  The  quantity  of  Hops  taken  to  Albany  and  the  neigh- 
Douring  towns  on  the  Hudson,  this  year  (1834),  has  been 
estimated  at  2,300  bales,  or  50,000  lbs.,  which,  had  not  many 
of  them  been  prematurely  gathered,  or  badly  cured,  would 
have  yielded  to  the  growers  ninety  or  a  hundred  thousand 
dollars.  But  of  the  2,300  bales  there  was  not  more  than 
200  bales,  we  are  informed,  that  ought  to  have  received  the 
denomination  of  first  sorts.  Many  of  them  were  picked  too 
early,  before  the  matter  that  imparts  to  them  their  value  was 
sufficiently  developed ;  and  others  were  scorched  or  smoked 
in  curing.  This  carelessness  has  seriously  affected  the  char- 
acter of  our  Hops  abroad,  and  they  are  no  longer  purchased 
by  the  Philadelphia  brewers.  They  would  soon  form  an  im- 
portant article  of  export,  if  their  character  was  raised  by 
care  in  their  culture  and  drying,  and  a  rigid  inspection." 

The  young  shoots  of  both  wild  and  cultivated  Hops  are 
considered  by  some  as  very  wholesome,  and  are  frequently 
gathered  in  the  spring,  boiled,  and  eaten  as  Asparagus.  The 
stalks  and  leaves  will  dye  wool  yellow.  From  the  stalk  a 
strong  cloth  is  made  in  Sweden,  the  mode  of  preparing  which 
is  described  by  Linnaeus  in  his  Flora  Suecica.  A  decoction 
of  the  roots  is  said  to  be  as  good  a  sudorific  as  Sarsaparilla ; 
and  the  smell  of  the  flowers  is  soporific.  A  pillow  filled  with 
Hop  flowers  will  induce  sleep,  unattended  with  the  bad  effects 
of  soporifics,  which  require  to  be  taken  internally. 


144  OBSERVATIONS    ON   THE   WEATHER. 

OBSERVATIONS  ON  THE  WEATHER,  AS  INFLU- 
ENCED  BY  CHANGES  OF  THE  MOON. 

Lest  the  reader  should  judge,  from  my  introducing  this 
subject,  that  I  am  an  advocate  for  moon-planting,  in  any 
other  sense  than  in  ascribing  the  various  changes  of  the 
weather  to  the  influence  of  that  great  luminary,  I  would  here 
offer  a  few  observations  in  reference  to  the  practice  and 
prejudices  of  many  persons  in  choosing  the  first  quarter  of 
the  moon  for  planting  such  vegetables  as  yield  their  produce 
above  the  surface,  as  Cabbage,  &c.,  and  the  last  quarter  or 
wane  of  the  moon  for  such  as  grow  and  yield  their  produce 
chiefly  in  the  earth,  and  below  the  sui'face,  as  Potatoes,  &c. 

I  would  first  observe,  that  if  the  moon  has  any  direct  in- 
fluence over  vegetable  productions,  it  must  operate  in  many 
cases  quite  the  reverse  to  what  these  theorists  generally  ex- 
pect; for  instance,  if  the  eaith  and  weather  should  happen 
to  be  dry  in  the  first  week  after  planting  certain  species  of 
seed,  such  would  fail  to  germinate,  for  want  of  its  most 
essential  nutriment,  moishu-e;  and  in  consequence  of  such 
seed  lying  dormant  in  the  earth,  until  after  another  change  of 
the  moon,  if  that  luminary  influences  the  seed  at  all,  in  such 
case  it  must  be  contrary  to  the  objects  of  the  honest  planter. 

As  I  deem  this  argument  alone  sufficient  to  shake  the 
foundation  of  moon-planting,  in  the  sense  I  have  described, 
I  shall  at  once  submit  to  the  reader's  attention  the  following 
observations  and  table,  from  the  pen  of  the  justly  celebrated 
Dr.  Adain  Clarke.  Some  exceptions,  however,  may  be  taken 
to  his  rules,  with  regard  to  the  wind,  which  does  not  operate 
in  all  places  alike.  For  example,  in  rainy  seasons  with  us, 
the  wind  is  generally  east,  northeast,  or  southeast,  and  cold 
weather  is  attended  by  a  northwest  wind.  In  England,  where 
these  calculations  were  made,  it  is  in  some  respects  different : 

"  From  my  earliest  childhood  I  was  bred  up  on  a  little 
farm,  which  I  was  taught  to  care  for  and  cultivate  ever  since 
I  was  able  to  spring  the  rattle,  use  the  whip,  manage  the 


ORSERVATIONS    ON    THE  WEATHER.  145 

sickle,  or  handle  the  spade  ;  and  as  I  found  that  much  of  our 
success  depended  on  a  proper  knowledge  and  management 
of  the  weather,  I  was  led  to  study  it  ever  since  I  was  eight 
years  of  age.  I  believe  meteorology  is  a.  natural  science, 
and  one  of  the  first  that  is  studied  ;  and  that  every  child  in 
the  country  makes,  untaght,  some  progress  in  it ;  at  least,  so 
it  was  with  me.  I  had  actually  learned,  by  silent  obsei-va- 
tion,to  form  good  conjectures  concerning  the  coming  weather, 
and  on  this  head,  to  teach  wisdom  to  those  who  were  imper- 
fect, especially  among  those  who  had  not  been  obliged,  like 
me,  to  watch  earnestly,  that  what  was  so  necessary  to  the 
famihj  support  should  not  be  spoiled  by  the  weather  before 
it  was  housed. 

"  Many  a  time,  even  in  tender  youth,  I  have  watched  the 
heavens  with  anxiety,  examined  the  different  appearances  of 
the  morning  and  evening  sun,  the  phases  of  the  moon,  the 
scintillation  of  the  stars,  the  course  and  colour  of  the  clouds, 
the  flight  of  the  crow  and  swallow,  the  gambols  of  the  colt, 
the  fluttering  of  the  ducks,  and  the  loud  screams  of  the 
seamew,  not  foro^ettinnf  the  hue  and  croaking  of  the  frosfs. 
From  the  little  knowledge  I  had  derived  from  close  observa- 
tion, I  often  ventured  to  direct  our  agricultural  operations  in 
reference  to  the  coming  days,  and  was  seldom  much  mistaken 
in  my  reckoning. 

"  About  twenty  years  ago,  a  table  j^urporting  to  be  the 
"work  of  the  late  Dr.  Herschel,  was  variously  published,  pro- 
fessing to  perform  prognostics  of  the  weather,  by  the  times 
of  change,  full,  and  quarters  of  the  moon.  I  have  carefully 
consulted  this  table  for  years,  and  was  amazed  a*  his  general 
accuracy  :  for  though  long,  as  you  have  seen,  engaged  in  the 
study  of  the  weather,  I  never  thought  that  any  rules  could  be 
devised,  liable  to  so  few  exceptions.  I  have  made  a  little  al- 
teration in  the  arrangements,  illustrated  it  with  further  ob- 
servations, and  have  sent  it  to  you  that  you  may  insert  it,  as 
it  has  hitherto  been  confined  generally  to  a  few  almanacs." 

13 


146 


TABLE    AND    OBSERVATIONS. 


A  TABLE 

For  telling  the  Weather  through  all  the  Limations  of  each  Year,  for  ever. 

This  table  and  the  accompanying  remarks  are  the  result  of  many  years' 
actual  observation  ;  the  whole  being  constructed  on  a  due  consideration  of 
the  attraction  of  the  sun  and  moon,  in  their  several  positions  respecting 
the  earth,  and  will,  by  simple  inspection,  show  the  observer  what  kind  of 
weather  will  most  probably  follow  the  entrance  of  the  moon  into  any  of  its 
quarters,  and  that  so  near  the  truth  as  to  be  seldom  or  never  found  to  fail. 


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147 
INTRODUCTION 

TO 

THE    MONTHLY    CALENDAR. 


The  object  of  this  Calendar  is  to  assist  the  memory  of 
the  gardener,  and  to  show  him,  at  one  glance,  that  he  may 
find  employment  in  some  of  the  departments  of  gardening 
in  every  month  of  the  year.  The  figures  refer  to  the  pages 
in  which  farther  directions  may  be  found,  relative  to  the 
operations  adverted  to. 

In  page  30  it  has  been  shown,  that  the  directions  accom- 
panying our  Catalogue  may  be  applied  to  all  the  climates  of 
the  United  States,  by  a  minute  observance  of  the  difference 
of  temperature. 

It  may  be  here  observed,  that  the  soil  is  susceptible  of  cul- 
tivation three  months  earlier  in  the  remotest  South,  than  in 
the  coldest  part  of  our  Northern  tenitory ;  the  Calendar, 
therefore,  for  March,  maybe  apphed  to  the  middle  of  Janu- 
ary in  the  warmest  climates,  and  to  the  middle  of  April  in 
the  coldest ;  some  exceptions  to  this  rule  must,  however,  be 
taken  in  the  Southern  States  after  the  three  spring  months, 
for  the  following  reasons  : 

1.  As  warm  weather  at  the  South  is  of  longer  continuance 
than  in  the  North,  plantations  of  those  species  of  vegetables 
denominated  tender  in  the  table,  page  26,  may  be  made  in 
the  open  garden  from  INIarch  to  August. 

2.  Extreme  heat  being  detrimental  to  the  cultivation  of 
many  half-hardy  vegetables,  such  as  Broccoli,  Cauliflower, 
Cabbage,  Celery,  Lettuce,  Radish,  Turnips,  &c.,  these  can 
only  be  cultivated  in  perfection  in  spring  and  autumn,  the 
latter  crops,  therefore,  should  not  be  planted  till  August  or 
September.  [See  note  to  article  Broccoli,  page  49 ;  also  52, 
72,  and  104.] 


148  MOxXTHLY    CALENDAR. 

3.  Many  of  the  half-hardy  class,  as  also  those  designated 
hardy  in  our  table,  may  be  cultivated  throughout  the  winter 
months,  by  forwarding  such  as  are  required  for  early  spring 
use,  after  the  summer  crops  are  taken  off.  [See  table,  expli- 
cation, &:c.,  page  26  to  29  ;  also  page  115. 

In  the  Eastern,  Western,  and  Middle  States,  the  annexed 
Calendar  will  answer  in  the  order  it  stands,  by  applying  the 
directions  to  the  beginning  of  the  first  spring  month  in  the 
warmest  climates,  and  to  the  latter  end  in  the  coldest  cli- 
mates, bearing  in  mind  that  where  summer  is  short,  the  main 
crops  must  follow  the  early  in  quick  succession,  with  a  view 
to  their  matuiity  before  winter. 


JANUARY. 

"  Prognostics  foretoken  most  truly  some  things, 
Of  summers,  and  autumns,  and  winters,  and  springs ; 
By  them  from  the  jxist  we  may  all  ascertain 
The  future,  respecting  tlie  winds  and  the  rain." 

It  is  customary,  at  this  season  of  the  year,  with  all  prudent 
men,  to  look  around  them,  and  endeavour  to  ascertain  the 
results  of  their  industry  throughout  the  past  year,  in  order  to 
make  improved  arrangeinents  for  the  future.  The  mere 
gai'dener,  having  no  complicated  accounts  to  adjust,  may 
occupy  his  time  to  valuable  purposes.  If  he  be  not  a  book- 
reader,  he  should  be  a  book-keeper,  (see  page  1-4,)  and  he 
should  frequently  take  a  sui'vey  of  his  former  practises  and 
those  of  his  acquaintances,  with  a  view  to  improve  on  every 
thing  he  has  done,  or  seen  done.  If  he  consults  writers  on 
Horticulture,  he  should  do  as  the  author  has  endeavoured  to 
do  in  prepai'ing  this  little  work  for  the  press ;  not  adopt  the 
mere  theory  of  a  subject,  nor  indulge  in  speculative  ideas, 
nor  even  tread  in  the  steps  of  others,  but  endeavour  to  erect 
his  edifice  of  knowledge  upon  a  good  settled  foundation.  In 
all  his  pursuits,  whether  he  attempts  to  follow  the  example 


MONTHLY    CALENDAR.  149 

of  practical  and  exemplary  men,  hear  lectures,  or  consult 
authors  on  the  subject,  he  should  do  as  every  sensible  man 
does  at  his  daily  meals,  take  that  which  suits  him  best,  and 
leave  the  residue  for  others.  If  this  little  work  should  be 
considered  worth  an  annual  perusal,  he  may  read  the  Gene- 
ral Remarks,  in  this  month,  (Jaimary,)  and  make  a  memo- 
randum of  such  things  as  may  be  obtained  in  moments  of 
leisure,  in  prefeience  to  putting  it  off  till  it  is  wanted.  I 
shall  endeavour  to  make  my  Calendar  serve  as  an  index  to 
the  book,  and  in  pursuit  of  my  ol)ject,  shall  begin  at  the 
Genei'al  Remarks,  page  13,  which  suggest,  that  if  a  man  has 
a  garden  to  form,  he  will  require  fencing  materials.  If  these 
should  be  already  at  hand,  every  gardener  should  provide 
manures,  ingredients  for  the  destruction  of  insects,  drilling 
machines,  and  other  tools ;  poles  or  rods  for  the  support  of 
Peas,  Beans,  or  other  climbing  plants  he  may  intend  to  cul- 
tivate ;  and  if  he  intends  to  use  hot-beds,  or  forcing-frames, 
he  should  make  aiTangements  to  get  compost  and  heating 
materials,  in  time  for  the  work  to  be  performed  in  the  next 
month.  If  he  depends  on  this  book  for  information,  he  may 
read  the  General  Remarks,  from  page  13  to  30 ;  and  also 
from  page  112  to  122,  on  Forcing  Vegetables. 


FEBRUARY. 

"A  cold,  sour  autumn,  they  sternly  maintain, 
A  long,  severe  winter  will  bring  in  its  train  ; 
If  summer  and  autumn  be  both  dry  and  warm, 
Calm  opens  the  winter,  it  closes  in  storm." 

Although  stern  winter,  with  its  ice-bound  chains,  exerts 
its  influence  over  the  soil,  the  gardener  may  find  employment 
preparatory  to  commencing  his  operations  of  ploughing  and 
planting,  as  the  year  progiesses.  Perhaps  the  most  import- 
ant business  at  this  season  is  to  collect  plenty  of  manure ; 
next  to  this,  the  gardener,  who  intends  to  raise  early  plants 

13* 


150  MONTHLY    CALENDAR, 

for  forcing  or  otherwise,  should  see  that  his  hot-bed  frames 
are  in  good  repair  and  ready  for  use ;  he  should  also  repair 
his  sashes,  and  make  straw  mats  with  which  to  cover  them. 
In  preparing  dung  or  other  heating  materials  for  hot-beds  or 
forcing-pits,  let  it  be  kept  secure  irom  heavy  falls  of  snow  or 
rain,  and  frequently  turned  over  j'l'eparatory  to  its  being 
made  into  a  bed.  With  a  view  to  give  all  attention  to  cul- 
ture as  the  season  advances,  the  gardener  should  look  over 
his  hardy  fruit  trees  and  hardy  vines,  and  Commence  pruning 
them,  by  cutting  oft'  all  dead  and  superfluous  blanches ;  he 
may  alscj  clean  trees  from  moss  and  canker,  and  search  for 
the  nests  of  insects,  with  a  view  to  destroy  them  while  in  a 
torpid  state,  to  prevent  their  spreading.  If  he  has  trellises, 
or  any  implement  of  husbandry  out  of  repair,  he  should  em- 
brace the  most  favourable  opportunities  of  putting  them  in 
good  condition,  and  of  repairing  his  fences,  &c. 

Previous  to  making  hot-beds,  select  a  situation  that  is  well 
protected  by  a  close  fence  or  wall,  and  not  in  any  way  con- 
nected with  any  building  calculated  to  harbour  rats,  mice, 
moles,  &c.,  which  are  very  apt  to  take  up  their  abode  in 
warm  duug,  to  the  great  injury,  and  sometimes  the  destruc- 
tion, of  the  beds.  It  is  necessary  that  the  foundation  for  the 
beds  be  dryly  situated,  and  not  liable  to  be  inundated  with 
water  from  'melted  snow,  &cc.  When  all  is  prepai'ed  as  di- 
rected in  pages  112  and  113,  begin  to  sow  Cabbage,  Egg- 
plant, Lettuce,  and  Tomato  seed,  112  ;  force  Asparagus,  117  ; 
Kidney  Beans,  119;  Cucumbers,  121;  plant  Peas,  132; 
Potatoes,  133;  sow  Radish  seed,  134.  In  cold-beds,  well 
protected,  plant  Broad  Beans,  119;  sow  Cabbage  seed,  54. 

After  the  seed  is  sown,  the  beds  will  require  constant 
attention  ;  cover  them  up  well  in  cold  nights,  and  give  air  at 
all  opportunities,  taking  care  to  regulate  the  heat  in  the  beds, 
as  directed  under  the  different  heads,  from  page  112  to  138. 
If  the  heat  be  excessive,  it  must  be  decreased  as  directed  in 
page  IIG;  and  if  it  should  become  necessary  to  let  off  steam 
in  cold  weather,  care  must  be  taken  to  cover  the  ajjpertures 


MONTHLY    CALENDAR.  151 

sufficiently  to  keep  out  frosty  air.  Give  air  at  all  opportu- 
nities to  Cabbage,  Cauliflower,  Lettuce,  and  such  other  plants 
EB  may  be  in  frames,  of  last  year's  sowing. 


MARCH. 

"  If  the  sun  appear  dim,  surrounded  with  haze, 
And  his  di?k  ill-defined,  and  faded  his  rays ; 
If  white  at  his  setting,  of  pDwer  if  shorn, 
The  signs  are  all  certain,  there'll  soon  be  a  storm." 

This  month  affords  considerable  employment  to  an  indus- 
trious gardener.  Manure  may  be  drawn  on  the  ground  and 
distributed  in  heaps,  ready  to  spead,  page  24  ;  and  the  hot- 
beds and  forcing-frames  will  require  constant  attention. 
Cover  them  up  warm  in  cold  nights,  and  give  additional  air 
as  the  season  progresses,  to  prevent  the  plants  growing  weak, 
taking  care  to  regulate  the  heat  as  directed  for  the  different 
kinds  of  vegetables.  If  any  additional  frames  are  to  be  put 
down  this  month,  either  for  forcing  or  forwarding  vegetables, 
they  should  be  attended  to  in  time,  as  directed. 

In  order  to  aflford  time  for  cultivating  the  soil  as  the 
weather  moderates,  the  gardener  should  proceed  with  his 
business  of  pruning  and  cleaning  fruit  trees,  shrubs,  &c.,  at 
all  opportunities ;  and  if  any  removal  be  necessary,  or  fresh 
trees,  shrubs,  vines,  &c.,  are  required,  these  things  should  be 
obtained  and  planted  this  month,  if  possible.  Begin  the 
work  of  the  kitchen  garden  as  soon  as  the  earth  can  be 
brought  into  good  condition,  and  transplant  hardy  Lettuce 
plants,  73;  dress  Artichoke  beds,  33;  Asparagus,  37  f  Rhu- 
barb, 91 ;  Sea-Kale,  95  ;  and  prepare  to  make  new  planta- 
tions of  these  vegetables.  Plant  Broad  Beans,  39  ;  Beet 
seed,  44 ;  Rape,  47 ;  plant  Cauliflower  plants  under  hand- 
glasses, 51  and  120;  sow  Cabbage  seed,  55  and  112;  Car- 
rot, 59  ;  Celery,  60  ;  plant  Chives,  66  ;  Cucumber,  in  fi-ames, 
121;  sow  Egg-plant  seed,  66;  plant  Horse-radish,  69;  Leek, 


152  MONTHLY   CALENDAR. 

71  ;  Lettuce,  72  ;  plant  Melon  seed  in  hot-beds,  132 ;  sow 
Onion,  78 ;  Parsley,  80 ;  Parsnip,  81 ;  Pepper,  82 ;  plant 
Peas,  83  ;  Potatoes,  in  frames,  133  ;  sow  Radish  seed,  88  and 
134;  plant  Rocambole,  89 ;  Rhubarb,  90;  Sea-Kale,  95;  Skir- 
ret,  97  ;  sow  Spinach  seed,  99;  Tomato,  101  and  112;  Turnip 
seed,  104;  prepare  to  make  Hop  plantations,  139;  sow  Herb 
seed,  106  to  108.  Plant  esculents  for  seed,  beginning  with 
the  haidiest  kinds ;  raise  up  and  plant  Cabbage  stumps,  &c., 
to  produce  greens  early  for  the  table.  In  the  course  of  this 
month,  every  thing  should  be  forwarded  relative  to  the  cul- 
tivation and  preparation  of  the  ground,  by  levelling  such  as 
may  have  lain  in  ridges  through  the  winter,  and  by  manuring 
and  digging  the  soil  generally,  preparatory  to  sowing  and 
planting  it  early  in  next  month. 

In  the  event  of  unfavourable  weather  in  March,  the  plant- 
ing of  some  of  the  articles  above  enumerated  may  be  de- 
layed until  the  early  part  of  April;  but  it  should  be  borne 
in  mind  that  if  the  hardiest  kinds  can  be  planted  eai'ly,  more 
time  will  be  afforded  to  other  important  business,  as  the  sea- 
son progresses. 


APRIL. 


"  The  state  of  the  wind  augurs  rain,  as  they  say. 
When  restless  in  changes,  now  this,  now  that  way, 
Or  hollow,  comes  whistling  plaintively  by. 
The  rain  it  betokens  is  probably  nigh." 

This  is  certainly  the  most  important  month  in  the  year 
for  gardening  operations.  Finish  as  early  as  possible  the 
planting  of  esculents  for  seed,  and  see  that  all  plants  of  the 
same  genus  are  remote  from  each  other,  or  they  will  adul 
terate.  All  the  soil  of  a  garden  should  be  dug  or  ploughed 
this  month  if  possible,  and  some  of  the  early  crops  sown 
last  month  will  require  hoeing  and  weeding. 

Great  care  should  be  taken  to  have  good  sound  seed,  as 


MONTHLY    CALENDAR.  153 

this  is  a  matter  of  the  utmost  importance,  and  for  want  of 
which,  many  are  disappointed  in  their  principal  crops  when 
too  late  to  sow  again.  It  is  also  a  material  consideration  to 
have  the  best  varieties  both  of  seed  and  plants  of  their  re- 
spective kinds.     See  page  25. 

If  not  done  last  month,  make  plantations  of  Artichokes, 
31;  Asparagus,  35  ;  Beans,  Vicia  faba,  39  ;  towards  the  end 
of  the  month,  plant  Beans,  Pliaseolus,  41  and  42  ;  Beet  seed, 
44 ;  sow  late  kinds  of  Broccoli  seed,  48 ;  not  Cape  Broccoli 
until  May;  seed  of  Cabbage  for  summer  use,  55  ;  Cardoon, 
58  ;  Carrot,  59  ;  Celery,  60  ;  sow  Cress  seed,  64  ;  plant  Cu- 
cumber in  frames,  124  ;  sow  Endive,  68  ;  plant  Horse  Radish, 
69  ;  Indian  Corn,  70  ;  Jerusalem  Artichokes,  70  ;  sow  Leek 
seed,  71;  Lettuce  seed,  72;  plant  Melon  in  hot-beds,  132; 
sow  Mustard  seed,  76 ;  plant  Nasturtium,  76 ;  sow  Onion 
seed,  78 ;  Parsley,  80 ;  Parsnip,  81 ;  plant  Peas,  83 ;  Pota- 
toes, 85 ;  Sweet  Potatoes,  86 ;  sow  Radish  seed,  88 ;  plant 
Rocambole,  89  ;  Rhubarb,  90  ;  Salsify,  92  ;  Scorzonera,  93 ; 
Sea  Kale,  94  ;  sow  Skirret,  97  ;  Spinach,  99  ;  Tomato,  101, 
112,  and  136 ;  Turnip  seed,  104 ;  Tuniip-rooted  Cabbage 
in  varieties,  56 ;  make  Hop  plantations,  139,  Sow  the 
seed  of  Angelica,  Anise,  Basil,  Burnet,  Boreage,  Caraway, 
Chervil,  Clary,  Coriander,  Dill,  Fennel,  Pot  Marigold,  Sweet 
Marjoram,  Patience,  Dock,  Sorrel,  Summer  Savory,  Small- 
age,  Thyme,  Bene,  Boneset,  Catnep,  Celandine,  Saffron,  and 
such  other  Aromatic,  Sweet,  and  Medicinal  Herbs  as  may 
be  recjuired.  Also  separate  and  transplant  all  kinds  of  Pe- 
rennial Herb  roots,  such  as  Mint,  Pennyroyal,  Sa""e,  Winter 
Savory,  Tarragon,  and  Medicinal  Herbs  in  general,  as  de- 
scribed page  106  to  108.  If  not  done  last  month,  attend  to 
the  spring  dressing  of  Artichoke  beds,  33 ;  Asparagus,  37  ; 
Rhubarb,  91 ;  Sea  Kale,  95. 

Besides  the  work  of  sowing  and  planting  the  various  kinds 
of  seed  above  enumerated,  all  the  strongest  plants  of  Cab- 
bage, Cauliflower,  and  Lettuce,  must  be  taken  from  the  hot- 
beds and  frames,  and  transplanted  into  the  regular  beds  in 


154  MONTHLY    CALENDAR. 

the  open  garden.  Attend  to  such  other  business  in  this  dfi- 
partment  as  may  have  been  left  undone  last  month,  and  see 
that  the  garden  be  kept  neat  and  fiee  from  weeds. 


MAY. 


"  Much  deiv  on  the  grass  portends,  as  all  say, 
That  day  which  succeeds  will  be  a  clear  day; 
But  when  no  dew  moistens  the  grass  on  the  plain. 
Kind  Heaven  requites  it  by  sending  it  rain." 

As  the  warm  weather  progresses,  the  gardener  should  be 
on  the  alert,  in  order  to  conquer  the  various  kinds  of  insects. 
Burn  damp  litter,  stubble,  leaves,  weeds,  &:c.,  near  fruit  trees, 
and  sow  ashes  over  the  ground.  Attend  to  plantations  of 
Cabbages,  Cauliflower,  &c. ;  lioe  them  frequently,  and  draw 
earth  to  their  stems ;  look  out  for  and  destroy  grub  worms, 
caterpillars,  and  other  insects,  18  to  21 ;  thin  out  the  early 
plantings  of  Beets,  CaiTots,  Parsnips,  Salsify,  &c.,  and  de- 
Btroy  weeds,  to  prevent  their  seeding  the  ground.  Plant 
Bn.d  sow  such  kinds  of  seed  as  were  omitted  last  month  ;  the 
sowing  of  Celery,  Leek,  Onion,  Parsley,  Parsnip,  Salsify 
eeed,  &c.,  should  be  attended  to  without  farther  delay. 
Transplant  Cabbage,  Lettuce,  Tomato,  Egg-plants,  &c.,  from 
the  hot-beds  and  warm  borders.  Plant  Beans,  41  and  42 ; 
Beet,  44 ;  Borecole,  46  ;  Brussels  Sprout  seed,  47 ;  Cape 
Broccoli,  49 ;  Cauliflower,  53 ;  Cabbage,  55  and  56 ;  Car- 
rot, 59 ;  Cress,  G4 ;  plant  Cucumber,  65 ;  sow  Endive, 
68;  plant  Indian  Corn,  70;  Melon,  74;  Water  Melon,  75; 
sow  Mustard  seed,  76;  plant  Nasturtium,  76;  Okra,  77; 
Pepper,  82  ;  Peas,  83  ;  Potatoes,  85  ;  Potatoes,  Sweet,  86 ; 
Pumpkins,  87  ;  sow  Radish  seed,  88  ;  Squash,  100 ;  Tomato, 
101 ;  early  in  this  month  finish  sowing  all  kinds  of  Aromatic, 
Pot,  Sweet,  and  Medicinal  Herbs,  106  to  108.  Some  of  the 
old  hot-beds  may  be  spawned  for  Muslirooms,  but  it  is  best 
to  form  new  ones.     Uncover  productive  beds  once  a  week. 


MONTHLY   CALENDAR.  155 

and  gather  the  produce  ;  clear  them  of  weeds  and  wet  litter, 
and  put  a  little  dry  hay  or  straw  next  the  bed.  Prepare 
fresh  spawn,  &c.,  125  to  130. 

Watering  will  now  frequently  be  required  for  newly  planted 
vegetables,  both  at  the  time  of  transplanting,  and  occasion- 
ally afterward,  in  dry  weather,  until  the  roots  are  established 
in  the  soil.  Likewise  seed-beds  recently  sown,  till  the  young 
plants  become  vigorous. 

Weeding  must  be  very  diligently  attended  to,  both  by  hand 
and  hoe  ;  for  as  weeds  grow  luxuriantly,  it  is  necessary  to 
eradicate  them  before  they  spread  too  far,  as,  by  neglect, 
they  will  not  only  impede  the  growth,  but  eventually  smother 
the  plants. 

Toward  the  end  of  the  month,  top  such  of  the  Enghsh 
Broad  Beans  as  may  be  in  blossom,  to  promote  the  swelling 
of  the  pods,  as  well  as  their  early  maturity.     [See  page  40.] 

Those  who  have  young  families  should  not  fail  sowing 
some  Bene-plant  seed,  as  the  plant,  by  being  steeped  in  a 
glass  of  water,  produces  a  glutinous  liquid,  which  is  an  effi- 
cacious remedy  for  the  summer  complaint.  It  may  be  sown 
in  drills  and  managed  the  same  as  salad  or  Parsley.  [See 
Herbs,  107.] 


JUNE. 


"  The  sky  dress'd  in  placid  soft  redness  at  night 
Portends  the  next  day  will  be  cloudless  and  bright ; 
A  fierce  angry  redness  that  shoots  up  at  morn. 
And  tinges  the  clouds,  is  a  token  of  storm." 

The  principal  so^ving  seasons  for  general  crops  may  be 
considered  as  past,  but  there  are  many  kinds  of  seed  which 
may  be  sown  this  month  ;  and  the  gardener  should  ascertain 
the  success  of  his  former  plantings,  in  order  to  make  up  any 
deficiencies  from  failures,  before  the  season  be  too  far  ad- 
vanced. By  this  time  some  of  the  early  crops  will  be  cleared 
off,  and  such  ground  as  was  manured  for  the  early  crops  of 


156  MONTHLY   CALENDAR. 

Lettuce,  Radishes,  Spinach,  &c.,  will  be  excellent  for  late 
Beets  and  Carrots.  Hoe  and  thin  out  all  standing  crops, 
and  clean  vacant  girjund,  to  prevent  weeds  from  running  to 
seed.  If  the  ground  be  dry,  frequent  hoeing  will  be  bene- 
ficial. Use  means  to  destroy  insects ;  read  pages  18  to  21 
for  information  on  this  subject.  Plant  Kidney  Beans,  41  and 
42  ;  Beet  seed,  41.  If  the  seedling  plants  of  Broccoli,  Cau- 
liflower, Cabbage,  &c.,  failed  last  month,  sow  again  early 
this  month.  Water  the  beds  frequently,  and  sow  tobacco 
dust,  soot,  ashes,  &c.,  or  use  the  liquid  recommended,  page 
19.  Transplant  Cabbage,  Celery,  &c.,  for  summer  use ; 
transplant  Cardoons,  58 ;  sow  Carrot  seed  in  drills,  59  ;  plant 
Cucumber  seed  in  hills,  65 ;  sow  Endive,  68  ;  plant  Indian 
Corn,  70 ;  transplant  Leeks,  71 ;  Okra  seed  may  be  planted 
early  in  this  month,  77 ;  plant  Peas,  if  dry  weather,  soak 
them  five  or  six  hours  in  water,  83 ;  plant  Potatoes,  85 ; 
Potatoes,  Sweet,  86  ;  Pumpkin  seed,  87  ;  sow  summer  Radish 
seed,  89;  plant  Squash,  100. 

As  the  herbs  come  into  flower,  they  should  be  cut  on  a 
dry  day,  and  spread  in  a  shady  place  to  dry  for  winter  use, 
108.  Conduct  Hop  vines  to  the  poles,  and  when  they  have 
reached  the  top,  nip  off"  the  tops  to  strengthen  the  stems,  140. 

Hoe  between  the  Artichokes,  and  in  order  to  have  the 
main  top  fruit  attain  its  full  size,  detach  the  small  suckers, 
or  lateral  heads.     [See  page  34.] 

Early  Cauliflowers,  which  will  now  be  progressing  toward 
maturity,  must  be  watered  in  dry  weather ;  and  as  the  heads 
begin  to  exhibit  themselves,  break  down  some  of  the  large 
leaves  over  them  to  protect  them  from  the  rays  of  the  sun, 
and  from  rain,  52. 

Keep  Asparagus  clear  of  weeds,  and  also  Onions ;  and 
give  those  beds  that  are  to  stand  for  ripening,  a  final  thin- 
ning, as  suggested  in  page  78. 


MONTHLY   CALENDAR.  157 

JULY. 

"  When  flotcers  toward  evening  their  blossoms  expand, 
And  bask  in  the  sunbeams,  there's  no  rain  at  hand  ; 
But  when  they  close  up  as  if  conscious  of  fear, 
They  augur  its  coining — it  no  doubt  is  near." 

This  is  a  very  important  month  for  transplanting  Cabbage, 
Cardoons,  Celery,  Endive,  Leeks,  Pepper  plants,  &c.,  for 
full  autumn  crops.  Prepare  trenches  for  the  Celery  plants 
beforehand,  in  order  that  they  may  be  ready  to  catch  the 
rain.  Leeks  may  be  transplanted  in  dry  weather,  by  first 
steeping  the  roots  in  mud,  and  Cabbage  plants  too,  if  there 
be  the  least  moisture  in  the  ground  when  it  is  freshly  turned 
over.  As  grub-worms  are  apt  to  devour  Cabbage  plants  early 
in  this  month,  those  persons  anxious  to  transplant  any  quantity, 
may  dip  the  roots  in  fish  oil,  and  then  dry  them  in  plaster  of 
Pai'is,  which  will  not  only  annoy  the  worms,  but  prove  bene- 
ficial as  manures,  19  and  20.  If  transplanting  in  general  be 
delayed  to  the  middle  of  the  month,  grub-worms  will  be 
harmless,  55. 

If  Beets  and  Carrots  have  failed,  the  seed  may  produce 
good  roots  by  autumn,  if  planted  early  in  the  month ;  plant 
Beans,  41 ;  Cabbage  seed  may  be  sown  now  for  Collards, 
57 ;  plant  Cucumber  seed  for  picklers,  6G ;  sow  Endive 
seed,  and  transplant  the  former  sowing,  68 ;  if  Peas  be 
planted  now,  they  should  be  soaked  in  soft  water  five  or  six 
hours,  83  ;  Potatoes  may  be  planted  early  in  this  month,  85  ; 
and  Pumpkins,  if  not  done  last  month,  87.  Sow  summer 
Kadish  seed  in  drills,  89 ;  sow  Turnip-rooted  Cabbage  seed, 
in  varieties,  56  ;  this  is  a  good  season  for  Ruta  Baga,  or  Rus- 
sian Turnip,  105 ;  and  the  common  kinds  of  Turnip  seed 
may  be  sown  toward  the  end  of  this  month,  104.  Attend 
to  plantations  of  Hops,  140  ;  whatever  herbs  maybe  required 
for  winter  use,  should  be  cut  off  and  dried  as  they  come  into 
flower  ;  Burnet,  Chervil,  Fennel,  Mint,  Parsley,  Sweet  Mar 
joram,  Tarragon,  Thyme,  Winter  and  Summer  Savory,  may 
all  be  cut  this  month,  106  to  108. 

14 


15S  MONTHLY    CALENDAR. 

The  business  of  sowing  and  transplanting  will  be  more 
successful  if  done  in  moist  or  showery  weather,  or  on  the 
approach  of  rain,  or  immediately  after,  especially  for  preca- 
rious seed,  and  young  seedling  plants.  Attend  to  tlie  Mush- 
room beds,  and  give  light  waterings,  or  expose  them  to  warm 
moderate  showers  occasionally,  130. 


AUGUST. 

"  When  clouds  slow  dissolve,  as  if  turned  into  air, 
And  vanish  from  sigiit,  the  next  day  will  be  fair ; 
But  when,  in  succession,  they  darker  appear, 
With  watery  aspect,  then  know  rain  is  near." 

The  planting  season  being  nearly  over,  now  is  the  time  to 
hoe  around  the  plants  and  clear  the  ground  of  weeds  and 
stubble.  Dig  or  plough  vacant  ground  ready  for  fall  Tur- 
nips, Spinach,  Shallots,  Fetticus,  &c.  As  the  ground  for  the 
latter  crops  may  require  manure,  it  will  be  greatly  improved 
if  ploughed  before  the  manure  is  drawn  on,  which  should  be 
afterwai'd  spread  and  ploughed  under. 

Plant  Beans  for  picklers,  41 ;  sow  Cabbage  seed  for  Col- 
lards,  57  ;  earth  up  Cardoons,  58  ;  do.  Celery,  62  ;  sow  Corn 
Salad,  or  Fetticus  seed,  63 ;  the  early  kinds  of  Cucumber 
may  produce  picklers  if  planted  early  in  this  month,  66 ; 
transplant  Endive,  and  prepare  to  blanch  the  early  plantings, 
68 ;  sow  Lettuce  for  autumn  use,  73  and  125 ;  sow  Onion 
seed  to  stand  the  winter,  78 ;  Peas  may  be  planted  thus  late, 
if  desired,  S3 ;  sow  summer  Radish  seed,  89 ;  prepare  for 
planting  Shallots  by  the  end  of  this  month,  97 ;  sow  Turnip 
seed  for  full  crops,  104 ;  attend  to  such  herbs  as  were  not 
gathered  last  month  ;  cut  off  and  dry  Sage,  and  other  late 
herbs,  106  to  108.  Hops  will  be  ripe  this  month  ;  choose  a 
dry  season  for  gathering  them,  and  attend  to  them  as  direct- 
ed, page  140  ;  this  is  a  good  season  for  preparing  to  make 
Mushroom  beds,  in  close  sheds,  cellars,  or  pits  ;  if  the  mate- 


MONTHLY   CALENDAR.  159 

rials  be  gathered  this  month,  indigenous  spawn  may  be  col- 
lected next,  but  those  that  can  procure  spawn  may  make 
the  beds  at  any  time,  or  they  may  pursue  Mr.  Nichol's  plan, 
128. 

Artichokes  will  be  in  perfection  this  month,  and  should  be 
cut  for  use  as  soon  as  the  scales  of  the  head  expand,  and 
before  they  open  in  the  heart  for  flowering ;  and  as  you  cut 
them,  break  down  the  stems  to  promote  the  growth  of  root 
offsets,  34.  In  dry  weather  hoe  and  plough  between  such 
vegetables  as  may  have  been  planted  in  rows,  which  will  not 
only  destroy  weeds,  but  encourage  the  growth  of  the  plants. 
Frequent  hoeing  in  dry  weather  will  be  more  beneficial  than 
the  watering-pot. 

Early  sown  Onions,  being  now  of  mature  growth,  and  full 
bulbed,  should  be  pulled  up  in  dry  weather  and  exposed  to 
the  sun  to  ripen ;  frequently  turning  them,  that  they  may 
harden  equally  for  keeping ;  then  clear  them  from  the  gross 
part  of  the  stalks,  and  loose  outer  skins,  eaith,  &c.,  and  re- 
move them  to  a  place  of  shelter,  78. 

Continue  to  gather  seed  of  all  kinds  as  they  ripen,  and 
prepare  vacant  ground  for  late  crops  ;  such  as  Spinach,  Shal- 
lot, Onion,  Fetticus,  &c.,  98. 


SEPTEMBER. 

"  Light  vapours  o'er  valleys  and  rivers  at  night. 
Foretoken    the  next  day  salubrious  and  bright ; 
Especially  when  they  at  morning  appear 
To  rise  up  the  hill  sides,  and  vanish  in  air." 

Although  the  sowing  season  is  nearly  over,  the  crops  oa 
the  ground  require  attention  constantly.  Endive  may  still 
be  transplanted  for  winter  use.  Hoe  Cabbage  and  other 
vegetables,  and  attend  to  the  earthing  of  Celery  as  it  pro- 
gresses in  growth.  Tie  up  Endive  plants  for  blanching,  68  ; 
sow  Rape,  47;  Cauliflower  seed,  51;    Cabbage,  54;  Com 


160  MONTHLY   CALENDAR. 

Salad,  or  Fetticus,  63 ;  Cress,  Rape,  &c.,  every  ten  days,  for 
a  salad,  64 ;  sow  Mustard,  for  the  same  purpose,  76 ;  sow 
Lettuce,  73  and  125  ;  Onion,  to  stand  the  winter,  78  ;  Radish, 
for  fall  use,  89 ;  plant  Shallots,  97  ;  sow  Spinach  seed  every 
week  or  ten  days,  98  ;  Turnips  will  sometimes  come  to  ma- 
turity if  the  seed  be  sown  the  early  part  of  this  month,  and 
those  sown  last  month  will  need  hoeing  as  they  progress  in 
growth,  104. 

Continue  to  gather,  dry,  and  pack  Hops  as  they  ripen,  140  ; 
also  all  Aromatic,  Sweet,  and  Medicinal  Herbs,  108 ;  this  is 
a  good  season  to  make  Mushroom  beds  in  sheltered  situa- 
tions ;  they  may  be  spawned  with  indigenous  or  artificial 
spawn,  as  may  be  most  convenient.  [For  directions  to  pre- 
serve spawn,  &c.,  see  pages  126  and  127.] 

Toward  the  end  of  this  month,  or  eaily  in  the  next,  is  a 
good  season  to  increase  all  kinds  of  herbaceous  plants,  by 
parting  the  roots,  but  it  should  be  done  in  cloudy  or  wet 
weather ;  at  the  same  time,  such  herbs  as  were  raised  from 
seed  sown  in  the  spring,  may  be  transplanted  into  separate 
beds  or  borders,  106  to  108. 

In  this  month  must  be  finished  all  the  principal  sowdngs 
and  plantings  necessary  this  year;  on  this  account  such 
ground  as  is  intended  for  principal  crops  next  year,  should 
be  well  manured  previous  to  planting  it.    [See  Spinach,  98.] 

Cucumber  vines  should  be  looked  over,  and  the  fruit 
gathered  as  it  becomes  fit  for  pickling,  as  a  very  slight  frost 
will  destroy  Cucumbers,  66. 


MONTHLY    CALENDAR.  Ig] 

OCTOBER. 

"  A  warm,  open  winter  doti)  often  succeed 
A  hot  and  dry  sumnu-r,  by  nil  'tis  agreed  ; 
A  hard,  frosty  winter  its  rigour  retains, 
And  holds  gentle  spring  in  its  cold  icy  chains." 

The  princii^al  winter  crops  being  planted,  it  will  be  neces- 
sary to  prepare  for  maturing  and  gathering  some  of  the  fall 
crops.  Weed  out  Fetticus,  Spinach,  &c.  Hoe  and  earth 
up  Celery  ;  do  it  in  dry  weather,  and  not  even  while  the 
dew  is  on  it,  62.  Toward  the  end  of  the  month,  frames 
must  be  provided  for  the  protection  of  Parsley,  Lettuce,  and 
of  such  Cabbage  and  Cauliflower  plants  as  were  raised  from 
seed  sown  last  month.  Begin  to  dig  and  secure  all  kinds 
of  vegetables  soon  enough  to  get  the  whole  placed  away  be- 
fore the  end  of  the  next  month.  Take  up  Potatoes  and  bury 
them  in  pits,  so  as  to  secure  them  from  wet  and  frost,  or  put 
them  in  a  warm  cellar.  Proceed  to  take  up  other  roots ; 
begin  with  the  most  tender  kinds,  or  do  that  which  is  re- 
quired to  be  done  in  dry  weather,  while  it  is  so.  Collect 
Pumpkins  and  winter  Squashes,  and  expose  them  to  the 
wind  and  air  on  a  dry  bench,  or  ledge,  before  they  are  stowed 
away.  Dig  up  Beets,  and  secure  them  in  pits,  or  pack  them 
in  sand  in  a  cellar. 

Aromatic,  Pot,  and  Medicinal  Herbs,  should  now  have  a 
thorough  cleaning  and  dressing;  by  destioying  all  weeds, 
cutting  away  all  decayed  stalks,  digging  between  such  plants' 
as  will  admit  of  it,  and  spreading  earth  over  others,  as  sug- 
gested, page  108. 

Tie  up  full-,gi-own  plants  of  Endive  every  week  in  dry 
weather,  for  blanching  in  succession,  as  required,  68. 

Horse-radish  may  now  be  dug  for  use  as  wanted,  by 
trenching  along  each  row  to  the  bottom  of  the  upright  roots, 
leaving  the  old  stools  for  future  production,  69.  Jerusalem' 
Artichokes  may  be  dug  up  for  use,  or  to  presence  for  winter 
consumption,  71. 

14* 


162  MONTHLY   CALENDAR. 

NOVEMBER. 

"When  nuts  are  but  few,  and  they  small  and  hollow, 
A  cold  and  wet  harvest,  there's  no  doubt,  will  follow ; 
but  when  they  are  plenty,  and  jiood,  'tis  agreed, 
A  rich,  golden  harvest  is  sure  to  succeed." 

Endeavour  to  avoid  having  your  garden  products  frozen 
fast  in  the  ground.     Begin  in  good  earnest  to  secure  them  ; 
in  fine  weather  dig  up  Beets,  Carrots,  and  as  many  SkiiTet, 
Salsify,  and  other  hardy  roots  as  will  be  required  for  winter 
use,  and  pack  them  close  together  in  pits  ;  give  them  a  coat 
of  straw,  and  afterward  heap  on  as  much  eaith  as  will  keep 
out  the  frost,  or  stow  them  in  a  cellar.     Toward  the  end  of 
the  month.  Turnips  may  be  secured  in  the  same  way.    Take 
up  Celery  in  dry  weather,  and  strike   it  in  close  together 
against  a  ridge,  which  should  be   previously  formed  in  a 
straight  line,  about  a  foot  above  the  level  of  the  surface ; 
throw  up  earth  from  the  trench  sufficient  to  cover  them  about 
an  inch,  and  then  plant  row  after  row  as  close  and  upright 
as  it  can  be  placed,  with  just  sufficient  earth  between  every 
row  to  keep  the  roots  and  stalks  from  touching  each  other. 
The  whole  being  covered  up  with  earth,  some  long  dung  or 
litter  may  be  thrown  over  it,  sufficient  to  keep  out  the  frost ; 
and  by  heaping  a  good  layer  of  manure  against  the  last  row 
of  Celery,  it  may  be  taken  out  at  any  time  in  the  vnnter  for 
use.     Some  erect  a  board  shed  over  to  protect  it  from  wet ; 
a  small  quantity  may  be  kept  in  a  cellar.     Cabbage  must  be 
taken  up  and  laid  in  rows  against  a  ridge,  so  as  to  form  a 
square,  compact,  close-growing  bed,  the    roots  and  stems 
being  buried  up  to  the  lower  leaves  of  the  Cabbages.     The 
beds  may  afterward  be  covered  with  straw,  or  a  temporary 
shed  may  be  erected  over  them.     Cabbage  will  keep  for 
some  months  in  a  cellar,  if  connected  with  their  roots.     For 
the  management  of  Broccoli  and  Cauliflower,  see  articles, 
pages  48,  51,  and  120.     Borecole,  Brussels  Sprouts,  and  Col- 
lards,  may  be  taken  up  and  stowed  away  like   Cabbages. 


MONTHLY    CALENDAR.  163 

Cardoons  may  be  laid  in  like  Celery,  or  preserved  in  sand 
in  a  cellar.  Leeks  may  be  taken  up  and  laid  in  rows  close 
together  against  a  ridge,  and  covered  up  as  far  as  the  lower 
leaves.  If  the  last  row  be  protected  from  frost  by  a  coat  of 
stable  dung,  they  can  be  taken  out  when  required  for  use. 
Com  Salad,  Spinach,  and  Lettuce,  may  be  protected  by  a 
covering  of  straw,  salt  hay,  or  cedar  brush.  For  the  man- 
agement of  Artichoke  beds,  see  page  32 ;  Asparagus,  37 ; 
Rhubarb  91 ;  Sea-Kale,  95. 

Dig  up  roots  of  Horse-radish  in  the  manner  recommended 
last  month,  to  preserve  in  sand  or  pits,  for  use  when  the 
ground  is  frozen  or  ice-bound.  Do  the  like  by  Jerusalem 
Artichokes,  which  are  now  in  their  full  perfection.  At  the 
same  time  take  up  as  many  Parsnips  and  other  hardy  roots, 
as  will  be  required  for  use  the  next  three  months.  Spread 
short  horse  dung  over  the  Onions  that  were  sown  in  August 
and  September,  which  will  protect  them  through  the  winter. 


DECEMBER. 

"A  wet,  sultry  summer,  prognostics  affirm, 
A  boist'rous  autumn  will  bring  in  its  turn  j 
A  cold,  sour  autumn  and  summer  portend 
A  winter  severe  from  beginning  to  end. " 

If  all  was  not  done  as  directed  last  month,  there  is  no 
time  to  be  lost.  Every  thing  that  needs  protection  should 
now  be  attended  to,  and  if  the  weather  continues  open,  some 
of  the  ground  may  be  ploughed  or  trenched,  to  receive  the 
benefit  of  winter  frosts.  Collect  all  your  Pea-sticks  and 
Bean-poles  together,  and  place  them  under  cover  to  prevent 
their  rotting.  Turn  over  compost  heaps,  and  provide  manure 
for  another  year. 

Those  who  are  desirous  of  having  Cucumbers  or  IMelona 
early  in  the  ensuing  spring,  and  have  not  the  convenience 


164  MONTHLY    CALENDAR. 

for  forcing  them  in  the  ordinary  way,  may  dig  a  few  grass 
gods  or  turfs,  before  it  freezes  hard,  and  stow  them  away  out 
of  the  reach  of  frost,  through  the  winter.  These  being 
placed  on  the  top  of  a  hot-bed,  in  March,  or  early  in  April, 
with  the  grass  downward,  and  Cucumber  or  INIelon  seed 
planted  in  the  earthy  part  thereof,  early  plants  may  be  pro- 
duced, which  can  be  removed  with  the  turfs  without  dis- 
turbing their  growth,  and  cultivated  either  on  the  ridge  sys- 
tem, as  recommended  in  page  132,  or  in  the  open  ground, 
provided  they  can  be  kept  growing  in  frames  until  settled 
warm  weather.  This  is  also  an  excellent  plan  in  early 
forcing,  as  it  saves  trouble  as  well  as  risk  in  transplanting 
seedling  plants  into  the  fruiting  beds. 

If  not  done  last  month,  dress  your  Artichoke  beds,  and 
cover  them  as  recommended  in  page  32.  Defend  Mushroom 
beds  \\ath  dry  straw,  or  long  stable  litter,  and  cover  such  as 
may  be  exposed,  with  mats,  as  security  against  cold.  In  all 
moderate  weather  duiing  the  winter,  give  air  to  Cabbage, 
Cauliflower,  Lettuce,  and  such  other  plants  as  may  be  in 
frames,  being  careful  to  cover  them  every  night  with  mats, 
boards,  litter,  &;c.,  as  necessity  may  require. 

As  the  year  is  drawing  to  a  close,  I  would  solicit  the  gais 
dener  to  review  the  results  of  his  practice  throughout  the 
past  season,  that  he  may  be  able  to  judge  how  to  act  for  the 
future. 

In  sketching  a  plan  of  his  garden  for  the  next  year,  he 
ought  to  make  provision  for  a  full  supply  of  such  vegetables  as 
are  best  calculated  to  sell,  and  yield  a  fair  profit;  with  this 
object  in  view,  I  would  suggest  that  he  take  a  retrospective 
view  of  his  previous  management,  and  also  of  the  directions 
given  in  the  preceding  chanter  relative  to  the  preparation  of 
the  soil,  by  ploughing,  trenching,  pulverizing,  manuring,  &c., 
as  circumstances  may  require ;  bearing  in  mind,  that  although 
clayey  soils  may  be  benefited  by  fall  ridging,  light  sandy 
ground  should  lay  fiat  through  the  winter. 


THE 

YOUNG  GARDENER'S  ASSISTANT. 

PART   II. 
FLOWER    DEPARTMENT. 


CONTENTS. 


OBSERVATIONS  ON  THE  FLOWER  GARDEN. 

On  laying  out  the  ground. — Adaptation  of  each  species  pnge. 
of  plants  to  its  peculiar  element,  -         -         -         -     13 

Suggestions  for  forming  a  rockery  to  accommodate  planta 

which  originated  in  mountainous  districts,      -         -     14 

The  cultivation  of  annual  flowers  adapted  to  Ladies. — 
In  sowing  of  seed,  ti-ansplanting,  watering,  and 
training  plants,  by  tying  them  to  neat  poles  or  rods, 
or  leading  them  over  trellis-work,  &c. — Attention 
directed  to  grass-walks,  lawns,  gravel-walks,  box- 
edgings,  decayed  plants,  insects,  &c.,     -         -         -     15 

INTRODUCTION  TO  THE  CATALOGUE  OF  ANNUAL  FLOWER 
SEED, 

Attention  directed  to  the  study  of  Flowers,  with  a  view 
to  their  successful  cultivation. — Observations  on 
the  germination  of  seed  in  different  climates. — 
Estimates  respecting  annual  flowers  as  regards  their 
growth,  time  of  blossoming,  Szc,  -         -         -     16 

A  Catalogue  of  Annual  Flower  Seed,  -         -  -     18 

Suggestions  for  providing  bulbous,  tuberous,  and  peren- 
nial plants,  includmg  Dahlias,  &c.,  for  early  plant- 
ing.— Also,  garden  implements,  labels,  suitable 
soil,  compost,  &c.,         ------     22 

Directions  for  sowing  flower  seed  in  borders,  flower- 
pots, beds,  and  circles,  with  notes  illustrative  of 
the  different  plans,        ------     23 

Method  of  securing  fragrance  to  Mignonette,       -         -     26 

PRELIMINARY  OBSERVATIONS  TO  THE  CATALOGUE  OF  BIEN- 
NIAL AND  PERENNIAL  FLOWER  SEED. 

On  the  circulation  of  the  sap  in  roots  and  stalks  of  plants,  28 
Frequent   renewals    of  the   roots  of  perennial   plants 

recommended,     ----.._  29 

A  Catalogue  of  Biennial  and  Perennial  Flower  seed,  -  30 


CONTENTS. 

Directions  for  cultivating  biennial  and  perennial  flow-  ■p^g^ 
ers  from  seed,  offsets,  layers,  cuttings,  &c. — Also, 
for  propagating  green-house  plants,  and  for  arrang- 
ing intermixed  flowers  to  advantage,  illustrated  by 
notes  and  annotations,  -         -         -         -         -     33 

Introduction  to  the  Catalogue  of  Flowering  and  Orna- 
mental Shrubs. — Observations  on  the  adaptation  of 
dwarf  shrubs  for  hedges  to  a  flower  garden,  also  on 
training  creepers  or  climbers  to  the  best  advantage,     38 

A  Catalogue  of   Dwarf   Flowering,   and  Ornamental 

Shrubs,         --------39 

A  Catalogue  of  Climbing  Ornamental  Shrubs,     -         -     45 

Directions  for  the  propagation  of  Ornamental  Shrubs  by 

various  methods,  ------     49 

Directions  for  transplanting,  pruning,  and  training  Orna- 
mental Shrubs, 53 

Beauties  op  April  and  May — Showing  the  order  of 
the  flower  tribe  through6ut  the  summer  season, 
with  poetic  pieces  illustrative  of  the  different  genera,     54 

OBSERVATIONS  ON  THE  CULTIVATION  OF  BULBOUS  AND 
TUBEROUS  ROOTED  PLANTS. 

On  the  introduction  and  multiplication  of  the  above  de- 
scription of  plants,        ------     63 

Bulbous  and  Tuljerous  Roots  defined — Soil  suited  to 

bulbous  roots  in  general,       -         -         -         -         -     64 

Directions  for  forming  the  beds  to  contain  bulbous  and 
tuberous  roots,  also  for  preserving  the  bulbs  and 
tubers  when  in  a  dormant  state,    -         -         -         -     65 


BULBOUS  AND  TUBEROUS  ROOTED  PLANTS, 
Practical  directions  for  the  cultivation  of  which  will  be  found  under  each  head. 


AmJtryllis, 

67 

Ixias, 

-  82 

Anemone   and   Ranuncu- 

Jonquil, - 

-  83 

lus,      -         -         -         - 

68 

Lachenalias,    - 

-  83 

Crocus,  in  numerous  vari- 

Lilies, 

-  83 

ties,     -         -         -         - 

69 

Narcissus, 

-  85 

Crown  Imperial, 

69 

Ornithogalum,  or 

Star  of 

Colchicum,      -         -         - 

70 

Bethlehem, 

-  85 

Cyclamen,       -         -         _ 

70 

Oxalis,    - 

-  86 

Double  Dahlia, 

70 

Pceony,  - 

-  87 

Gladiolus,  or  Sword  Lily, 

79 

Tulip,     - 

-  88 

Hyacinth,        -         .         - 

81 

Tuberose, 

-  92 

Iris,  or  Flower  de  Luce, 

82 

Tiger  Flower, 

-  93 

CONTENTS. 


a. 


OBSERVATIONS    ON  THE    CULTIVATION  OF  BULBOUS    ROOTS 
IN  POTS   AND  GLASSES. 

Caution  against  over-watering  bulbous  plants  at  parti-  Page. 

cular  seasons,        ----_.         .94 
On  the  choice  of  roots  for  cultivation  in  a  green-house 

or  light  room,       ----_.         .95 

OBSERVATIONS  ON  THE  GENERAL  MANAGEMENT  OF  GREEN- 
HOUSE PLANTS. 

The  peculiarities  of  exotic  plants  defined,    -         -         -     97 

Brief  directions   for  the   management  of  green-house 

plants, 98 

Hints  furnished  by  an  amateur  for  the  keeping  of  plants 

in  rooms,      -----...99 

An  attempt  to  prove  that  Light,  Heat,  Air,  and  Moisture 
are  essential  to  the  preservation  of  plants,  and  that 
water  should  be  appHed  in  proportion  as  heat  and 
air  are  attainable,  ---_._  IQO 

Suggestions  for  providing  suitable  compost,  to  be  used 

in  re-potting  the  various  species  of  plants,     -         -  101 

Catalogue  of  Chrysanthemums,  with  directions  for  their 

cultivation,  -----_..  iq2 

Introduction  to  the  Catalogue  of  Green-house  Plants, 
wherein  the  reader's  attention  is  directed  to  vari- 
ous subjects,  ---..._  103 

Descriptive  catalogue  of  the  most  esteemed  species  of 

exotic  plants,       ----...  104 


OUTLINE  OF  THE  FIRST  PRINCIPLES  OF  HOTICULTURE,  ETC., 
Which  embraces  much  general  information  under  the  following  heads  : 

Vin.  Fruit,-         -  -  131 

IX.  Seed,  -         -  -  133 

X.  Sap,    -         -  -134 

XI.  Air  and  Light,  -  135 

Xn.  Perspiration,  -  137 

XIH.  Cuttings,      -  -  138 

XIV.  Scions,          -  -  139 

XV    Transplantation,  -  140 


I. 

General  nature  of 

Plants,    - 

-  120 

II. 

Root,  - 

-  121 

III. 

Stem, 

-  123 

IV. 

Leaf-Buds,  - 

-  124 

V. 

Leaves, 

-  127 

VI. 

Flowers, 

-  128 

VII. 

Sexes, 

-  130 

X,  CONTENTS. 

MONTHLY   CALENDAR. 

January. — Reasons  given  why  temperance  in  the  use  p^g^, 
of   water   should   be   observed   in   the   cultivation 
of  plants  during  the  winter  season. — Directions  for 
regulating  the  temperature  of  the  room  in  which 
plants  are  kept. — A  brick  flue  recommended  for  the 
purpose  of  heating  a  small  green-house,  &c.,          -  142 
February. — Directions  for  cultivating  Camellias  or  Ja- 
pan Roses — Also,  for  the  management  of  such  bul- 
bous roots  as  may  be  in  progress  of  blooming. — 
Several  perennial  plants  enumerated,  which  require 
attention  this  month. — Information  given  how  to 
make  a  hot-bed  for  the  pur^iose  of  raising  early 
plants,          -..-----  143 
March. — The  Business  of  this  month  consists  in  attend- 
ing to  JNIonthly  Rose.s,  Primroses,  Polyanthus,  Au- 
riculas, English  Spring  Flowei's,  Schizanthus,  &c. 
— In  sowing  in  hot-beds  the  seed  of  Dahlia,  Mig- 
nonette, Primula,  and   such  other  species  as  are 
designated  thus  §   and  thus   t  in  the   Catalogues, 
pages  18  and  30. — The  roots  of  Dahlia,  Amaryllis, 
Gladiolus,  Tiger  Flower,  Tuberose,   &c.,  may  be 
planted  in  hot-beds,  to  forward  them  in  growth,     -  146 
April. — Recommendations  on  various  subjects — as,  at- 
tention   to  box   edgings,    gravel-walks,    flowering 
shrubs,  herbaceous  plants,   bulbous  rooted  plants, 
Dahlia  roots,  green-house  plants,  &c. — It  is  sug- 
gested to  cultivate  all  the  ground  of  the  garden  this 
month,  if  possible,  and  to  sow  all  the  different  spe- 
cies of  seed  that  the  season  will  admit  of,      -         -  148 
May. — As  the  warm  weather  progresses,  the  gardener 
is  directed  to  conquer  the  various  kinds  of  insects — 
to  provide    awnings   for  the  protection  of  choice 
flowers — to  set  out  green-house  plants — and  to  in- 
crease their  number  by  propagation  from  cuttings, 
suckers,  seed,  &c.,  as  adverted  to  in  the  Calendar,   149 
June. — It  is  recommended  to  water  green-house  j^lants 
frequently  in  dry,  wai"m  weather,  to  shade  Hydran- 
geas, Daisies,  Polyanthus,  Primulas,  &c.,  from  the 
noonday  sun — to  remove  decayed  plants,  and  to 
replace  them  with  vigorous  ones  from  the  nursery 
bed — to  transplant  annual  flower  plants,  Dahlias, 
&c., 151 


CONTENTS.  2a. 

July. — The  gardener  is  reminded  that  this  is  the  proper  pj^^g 
time  for  pruning  Garden  Roses,  and  other  plants — 
Also,  for  budding  Orange  and  Lemon  trees — for 
laying  Carnations,  Pinks,  Pansies,  Running  Verbe- 
nas, &c.,  with  a  view  to  their  propagation — for 
destroying  weeds,  to  prevent  tlieir  seeding  in  the 
ground,  &c.,  ....-.-   I53 

August. — Attention  is  directed  to  green-house  plants, 
which  will  need  wateiing  often — and  toward  the 
end  of  the  month  they  will  require  to  be  replen- 
ished with  fresh  compost,  and  re-potted. — Also,  to 
the  budding  of  Orange  and  Lemon  trees,  if  not 
done  last  month,  -------  154 

Septejiber. — It  is  suggested  to  take  up  such  tender  and 
half-hardy  plants  as  were  placed  in  the  earth  of  the 
flower  beds  in  the  spring,  with  a  view  to  their  being 
pruned  and  re-potted. — Also,  to  plant  such  bulbous 
roots  as  are  described  in  the  Calendar,  -         -  155 

October. — In  this  month  the  florist  is  reminded  of  the 
importance  of  housing  all  tender  exotic  plants,  ten- 
der bulbous  and  tuberous  roots,  &c. — Also,  to  the 
planting  of  the  hardy  species  of  bulbous  roots,  in 
flower  beds,  before  the  approach  of  severe  frost,     -  l'»6 

November. — During  the  continuance  of  mild  weather, 
it  is  recommended  to  give  air  at  all  opportunities 
to  green-house  plants. — Also,  to  place  half-hardy 
plants  in  frames,  and  cover  up  flower  beds  with 
leaves,  straw,  or  light  litter,  with  a  view  to  their 
preservatif)n  through  the  winter,  -         -         -         -  157 

December. — Constant  care  and  attention  is  recommend- 
ed to  the  situation  of  green-houses  or  rooms  in 
which  plants  are  kept,  which  should  be  so  secure 
as  to  prevent  the  intrusion  of  cold  air,  or  the  es- 
cape of  warm  air  in  tlie  night  season,  -         -         -  159 

The  Matrimonial  Garden,  wherein  the  tempers  and 
dispositions  of  the  mind  are  compared  to  plants, 
which  require  careful  cultivation,  -         -         -  350 


OBSERVATIONS 


THE    FLOWER    GARDEN. 


Previous  to  forming  a  flower  garden,  the  ground  should 
be  made  mellow  and  rich,  by  being  well  pulverized,  manured, 
and  prepared  in  every  respect  as  if  intended  for  a  kitchen 
garden.  A  flower  garden  should  be  protected  from  cold, 
cutting  winds  by  close  fences,  or  j^lantations  of  shrubs,  form- 
ing a  close  and  compact  hedge,  which  should  be  neatly  trim- 
med every  year.  Generally  speaking,  a  flower  garden  should 
not  be  on  a  large  scale,  and  the  beds  or  borders  should  not 
in  any  part  be  broader  than  the  cultivator  can  reach,  without 
treading  on  them :  the  shape  and  number  of  the  beds  must 
be  determined  by  the  quantity  of  the  ground,  and  the  taste 
of  the  person  laying  out  the  garden. 

Much  of  the  beauty  of  a  pleasure  garden  depends  on  the 
manner  in  which  it  is  laid  out;  a  great  variety  of  figures 
may  be  indulged  in  for  the  flower  beds.  Some  choose  oval 
or  circular  forms,  others  squares,  triangles,  hearts,  diamonds, 
&c.,  intersected  with  winding  grass  j^aths  and  gravel  walks. 
In  the  design  of  an  oniamental  garden,  nature,  however, 
should  be  imitated  as  closely  as  practicable,  not  only  in  the 
formation  and  regulation  of  the  flower  beds,  but  in  the  adap- 
tation of  each  species  to  its  peculiar  element,  soil,  and  situ- 
ation, taking  into  consideration,  that  the  inmates  of  a  garden, 
constituting  as  they  do  a  mingled  group,  collected  from  all 
the  different  climates  and  soils  of  the  vegetable  creation,  re- 
quire each  its  most  essential  aliment,  to  promote  a  luxuriant 
growth. 


14  OBSERVATIONS    OX   THE  FLOWER  GARDEN. 

Neatness  should  be  the  prevailing  characteristic  of  a  flower 
garden,  which  should  be  so  situated  as  to  form  an  ornamental 
appendage  to  the  house ;  and,  where  circumstances  will  admit, 
placed  before  the  windows  exposed  to  a  southern  or  south- 
eastern aspect.  The  principle  on  which  it  is  laid  out,  ought  to 
be  that  of  exhibiting  a  variety  of  colour  and  form,  so  blended 
as  to  produce  one  beautiful  whole.  In  a  small  flower  garden, 
viewed  from  the  windows  of  a  house,  this  effect  is  best  pro- 
duced by  beds,  or  borders,  formed  side  by  side,  and  parallel 
to  the  windows  whence  they  are  seen,  as  in  that  position  the 
colours  show  to  the  best  advantage.  In  a  retired  part  of  the 
garden,  a  rustic  seat  may  be  formed,  over  and  around  which 
grape  vines,  or  honeysuckles,  and  other  sweet  and  ornamental 
creepers  and  climbers,  may  be  trained  on  trellises,  which  will 
afford  a  pleasant  rural  retreat. 

In  extensive  pleasure  grounds  a  rockery,  formed  of  rough 
stone,  and  rich  light  soil,  may  be  erected  in  imitation  of  a 
mountain,  on  which  may  be  cultivated  various  plants  natives 
of  mountainous  districts,  and  such  indigenous  plants  as  are 
calculated  for  the  situation ;  also  herbaceous  plants,  procum- 
bent and  trailing,  such  as  Mesembryanthemums,  Climbing 
Cordydalis,  the  various  species  of  Silene  or  Catch  Fly,  Gyp- 
sophila,  Lotus,  Ricota  or  Syrian  Honesty,  Godetia,  &c.  These 
being  interspersed  with  dwarf  plants  of  different  species,  as 
Mountain  Lychnis,  Violets,  Daisies,  &c.,  and  so  arranged  as 
to  cover  a  great  proportion  of  the  rocky  surface,  must  ne- 
cessarily produce  a  very  pleasing  effect. 

Although  the  greatest  display  is  produced  by  a  general 
flower  garden,  that  is,  by  cultivating  such  a  variety  in  one 
bed  or  border  as  will  insure  an  almost  constant  blooming ;  yet 
bulbous  rooted  plants,  though  essential  to  the  perfection  of  the 
flower  garden,  lose  something  of  their  peculiar  beauty  when 
not  cultivated  by  themselves.  The  extensive  variety  of  bul- 
bous roots  furnishes  means  for  the  formation  of  a  garden, 
the  beauty  of  which,  arising  from  an  intei mixture  of  every 
variety  of  foim  and  colour,  would  well  repay  the  trouble  of 


OBSERVATIONS  ON   THE    FLOWER  GARDEN.  15 

cultivation,  particularly,  as  by  a  judicious  selection  and  man- 
agement, a  succession  of  bloom  may  be  kept  up  for  some 
length  of  time.  As,  however,  bulbous  flowers  lose  their  richest 
tints  about  the  time  that  Annuals  begin  to  display  their  beauty, 
there  can  be  no  well-founded  objection  to  the  latter  being 
transplanted  into  the  bulbous  beds,  so  that  the  opening  blos- 
soms of  the  Annuals  may  fill  the  place  of  those  just  withered, 
and  continue  to  supply  the  flower-beds  with  all  the  gayety 
and  splendour  of  the  floral  kingdom. 

The  cultivation  of  Annual  Flowers  is  a  delightful  employ- 
ment, and  well  adapted  to  the  amusement  of  a  lady,  who,  with 
the  assistance  of  a  labourer  to  prepare  the  ground,  may  turn 
a  barren  waste  into  a  beauteous  flower  gaixlen  with  her  own 
hands.  Sowing  the  seed,  transplanting,  watering,  and  train- 
ing the  plants,  tying  them  to  sticks  as  props,  leading  them  over 
ti-ellis-work,  and  gathering  their  seed,  are  all  suitable  feminine 
occupations,  and  from  their  affording  motives  for  exercise  in 
the  open  air,  they  contribute  greatly  to  health  and  tranquilhty 
of  mind. 

But  the  taste  of  the  florist  will  be  exercised  to  little  pur- 
pose, in  the  selection  of  Flowers,  if  strict  attention  is  not  paid 
to  the  general  state  of  the  garden.  If  there  are  lawns  or 
grass  walks,  they  should  be  frequently  trimmed,  and  more 
frequently  mowed  and  rolled,  to  prevent  the  grass  from  inter- 
fering with  the  flower-beds,  and  to  give  the  whole  a  neat,  regu- 
lar, carpet-like  appearance.  If  there  are  gravel  walks,  they 
should  be  frequently  cleaned,  replenished  with  fresh  gravel, 
and  rolled.  Box,  and  other  edgings,  should  be  kept  clear  of 
weeds,  and  neatly  trimmed  every  spring.  Decayed  plants 
should  be  removed,  and  replaced  by  vigorous  ones  from  the 
nursery  bed.  Tall  flowering  plants  must  be  supported  by  neat 
poles  or  rods;  and  all  dead  stalks  and  leaves  from  decayed 
flowers  must  be  frequently  removed. 

In  the  summer  season,  all  kinds  of  insects  must  be  timely 
destroyed,  and  in  the  evenings  of  warm  days,  the  flowers  will 
require  frequent  watering. 


16 


INTRODUCTION 


CATALOGUE  OF  ANNUAL  FLOWER  SEED. 


To  raise  your  flowers,  various  arts  combine  ; 
Study  these  well,  and  fancy's  flight  decline. 
If  you  would  have  a  vivid,  vigorous  breed 
Of  e\ery  kind,  examine  well  the  seed  : 
Learn  to  what  Elements  your  plants  belong, 
What  is  their  constitution,  weaiv  or  strong  ; 
Be  their  physician,  careful  of  their  lives. 
And  see  that  every  species  daily  thrives  ; 
These  love  much  Air,  these  on  much  Heat  rely, 
These,  without  genial  Moisture,  droop  and  die. 
Supply  the  wants  of  each,  and  they  will  pay 
For  all  your  care  througti  each  succeeding  day. 

With  a  view  to  render  tlils  woi-k  more  generally  useful 
and  interesting,  a  classification  and  definition  of  the  various 
species  and  varieties  embraced  in  the  annexed  Catalogue, 
are  attempted  to  be  given.  Precision,  hov\^ever,  in  the  per- 
formance of  this  task  is  impracticable,  as  it  must  be  evident 
that  the  vegetable  family,  having  been  collected  from  every 
variety  of  climate  and  soil,  will  differ  as  to  height,  colour, 
time  of  blossoming,  and  in  many  other  essential  points,  when 
cultivated  out  of  their  natural  Element. 

Some  seed  germinate  in  two  or  three  days  after  having 
been  deposited  in  the  earth ;  others  will  not  exhibit  signs  of 
vegetation  in  as  many  weeks.  These  and  other  distinguish- 
ing features  arise,  in  a  great  measure,  from  their  having 
originated  in  various  soils  and  climates.  Natives  of  cool  or 
temperate  climates  and  moist  soils,  are  generally  tardy  in 
germinating  when  cultivated  in  a  warm  climate  and  dry  soil, 
for  want  of  a  due  share  of  their  most  essential  aliment, 
Moisture;  and  natives  of  waim  climates  and  light  soils 
require  artificial  culture  in  cool  seasons  and  unpropitious 
climates,  in  order  to  their  being  accommodated  with  their 


ANNUAL    FLOWER    SEED.  17 

natural  and  most  important  aliment,  Heat,  Air  also  is  a 
more  necessary  aliment  to  some  species  than  to  others,  but 
these  three  elements  collectively,  constitute  the  food  of  plants 
in  general.  It  may  also  be  observed  that  the  adaptation  of 
plants  to  a  soil  congenial  to  them  is  of  the  utmost  import- 
ance ;  as  plants  will  not  thrive  w^ell  when  improper  food  is 
absorbed  by  their  roots. 

Under  favourable  circumstances,  annuals,  in  general,  will 
produce  their  flower  buds  within  two  months  from  the  period 
of  sowing  the  seed.  Some  species,  soon  after  exhibiting 
their  brilliant  blossoms  and  ripening  their  seed,  disappear, 
while  others  embellish  the  borders  with  a  succession  of  flow- 
ers for  two  or  three  months.  An  assortment  of  seed  judi- 
ciously selected,  and  sown  in  due  season,  will  aftord  amuse- 
ment to  the  cultivator  the  greater  part  of  a  summer,  and 
yield  seed  for  the  propagation  of  the  species  in  succeeding 
years,  if  gathered  when  rij^e,  and  carefully  preserved. 

Annual  plants  will  grow  from  one  to  four  feet  in  height, 
in  one  uniform  soil  and  situation  ;  but  as  these  are  diversified 
in  almost  every  garden,  no  correct  conclusion  can  be  drawn 
in  this  particular;  an  attempt,  however,  has  been  made  in 
the  annexed  Catalogue,  to  describe  the  various  species  as 
neai'ly  as  possible,  which  may  serve  as  a  guide  to  the  gardener 
in  planting ;  the  most  dwarfish  being  adapted  to  the  front  or 
outer  edge  of  the  borders,  and  others  in  regular  gradation. 

Those  species  marked  thus  §  are  tender.  Those  marked 
thus  *  should  be  sown  in  the  spot  whei'e  they  are  intended 
to  blossom,  as  they  are  apt  to  droop  and  die  by  being  trans- 
planted. A  few  are  marked  thus  t.  These,  though  cultivated 
as  annuals,  from  their  facilities  in  blossoming  and  I'ipeninf 
their  seed  the  first  season,  are  in  reality  perennial,  as  are  also 
some  other  varieties  from  warm  climates,  usually  denominated 
annuals  ;  but  as  such  could  not  be  cultivated  at  all  by  those 
who  have  no  means  of  protecting  their  plants  during  our 
severe  winters,  they  may  with  great  propriety  be  treated  as 
tender  annuals,  by  sowing  the  seed  every  spring. 


18 

A  CATALOGUE  OF  ANNUAL  FLOWER  SEED. 
Graines  de  Jleuercs  annuelles. 

§  Denotes  tender,    t  Perennial.    *  Difficult  to  transplant. 

Feet  High. 
+  Ageratum,  Mexican,  lilue,  Ageratum  Mexicana,  1  to  2 

Alkekengi,  or  Kite  Flower,  lilac,         Afropa  pkysaloides,  3  to  4 

tAlyssum,  Sweet,  white,  Ahjfisum  marilima,  1 

§Amaranthus,  three-coloured,  Amarardhus  tricolor,  2  to 3 

*Argemone,  or  Prickly  Poppy,  yel-  Argemone,    Mexicana,   grandi- 

low,  cream-coloured,  and  white,         flora,  nchrolenca,  etc.,  2  to  4 

Aster,  Chinese  and  German,  white,  At!ter,Cliinensis,var.al!>a,7Ubrc, 

red,  striped,  purple.  &c.,  striata,  purpurea,  etc.,  1  to  2 

§  Balsams  ;  three  species  and  nume-  Balf<amina  hortensK,  Mastersia- 

rous  varieties,  scarlet,  striped,  pur-       na,  cornufa.  cocchiea,  striata, 

pie,  crimson,  white,  &c.  p'lrpiirea,  alba,  etc.,  1  to  2 

§  Bartonia,  the  (Jolden,  Bnrtnnia  aurea,  2  to  3 

Bladder  Ketmia,  huff,  dark  centre,      Hl'dscux  trionum,  1  to  2 

Blue  Bottle,  Great,  Centnurea  cyanus,  major,  3  to  4 

Blue  Bottle,  Small,  Crnfaurea  cyimis,  minor,         1  to  2 

Blumenbachia,  white,  Blumenhachia  insignis,  under         1 

§  Browallia,or  Amethyst,  blue,  white,  BrniiiaUia  ela.ta,  alba,  etc.,  1  to  2 

§  Cacalia,  scarlet,  Cacnlia  cocrinen,  1  to  2 

Calliopsis;  Drummond's  Coreopsis,   CaUiopvs  Vrummondii,  2  to  3 

Calandrina,  Annual,  crimson,  Calanilrina,  speciosa,  etc.,  lto2 

tCalandrina,  rose  and  purple  tinged,   Calandrina  dvscnlor,  etc.,  2  to  3 

*  Candytuft,  white  and  purple,  Iberis  alba,  purpurea,  etc.,  1 

*  Catch  Fly,  purple  and  re  1,  Si.'sne  p'lrp'irea,  muscipula,  etc.  2  to  3 

•  Catch  Fly,  dwar/  pink,  spotted,  &c  ,   Silene  Ariiieria,  picta,  etc-,         1  to  2 

•  Caterpillars,  Hedge-hogs,  &  Snails,  Medicago  circinnata.intertexta, 

curious,                                                   scttteUata,  etc.,  lto2 

Centaurea,  or  pink  Sultan,                   Cfntanrea   Americana,  2  to  3 

China  Pink,  of  every  shade,                 Ditmlhus,  Chinensis,  annuiis,  1  to  2 

§  Cleome,  rose-coloured,  wliite,  &c.,  Cleome  rosea,  spinoca,  etc.,  2  to  3 
Chrysanthemum,  white,  yellow,  and  Chrysanthemum      coronarium, 

three-coloured,                                        alha,  Intea,  tricolor,  etc.,  2  to  3 

Clarkia,  rose,  purple,  white,  &c.,         Clarkia  elegans,pulchella,  etc.,  1  to  2 

§  Clintonia,  elegant  blue,                      Clintonia  elegans,  1  to2 

§  Cockscomb,  crimson  and  yellow,      Celocin  cristata,  lutea,  2  to 3 

§  Collinsia, lilac,  white,  two-coloured,   Collinsia  hetrophilla,  hicolor,  2  to3 

ICommelina,  blue-flowering,                Commelina  ccclest's,  1 

*Convolvulu<!,dwar''-:ariegated,  &c..   Convolvulus  minor,  bicolor,etc.  1  to  2 

Coreopsis,  Golden,  onrk  centre,            Calliopsis  tinctoria,  2  to  3 

§  Cotton  Plant,  cream,                           Cisnypiurr.  herbaceuni,  3  to  4 

Crotalarja.  purple,  yellow,  and  white,   Crotalana  verrucosa,  etc.,  1  to  2 

Cuphca,  Mexican,  scarlet,  variegated,   Cuphea  lanceolata,  silenovJis,  1  to2 

+  Dahlia,  Mexican,  various.                  Dahlia  superflua,  3  to  6 


ANNUA!.    FLOWER    SEED, 


19 


§  Denotes  tender.       t  Perennial. 


Devil  in  the  Bush,  or  Love  in  a  Mist, 
blue,  yellow,  purple,  white,  &c. , 

Dwarf  Love  in  a  Mist,  various, 

+  Dew  Plant,  crimson, 

t  Didiscus,  azure  blue, 

§  Egg-plant,  white,  for  ornament, 

Erissimum,  orange, 

t  Escholtzia,  or  Chryseis,  yellow,  red, 
and  orange. 

Eternal  Flower,  yellow,  purple,  and 
white. 

Euphorbia,  variegated, 

*  Evening  Primrose,  dwarf  annual, 

white,  yellow,  red,  &c., 

*  Evening  Primrose,  large  yellow, 

*  Evening  Primrose,  willow-leaved, 
Feather  Grass, 

*Flos  Adonis,  or  Pleasant  Eye,  red, 

f  Francoa,  pink  and  purple, 

§Galardia,  orange  and  crimson, 

Garidella,  Nigella  like, 

Gilia,  blue,  pink,  variegated,  &c., 

§  Globe  Amaranthus,  crimson,  white, 

Grove  Love,  blue, 

tGodetia  the  Twiggy,  purple, 

Godetia  the  Ruddy,  annual. 

Godetia,  dwarf,  purple,  and  spotted, 

*Gypsophila,  pink  and  white, 

Hawkweed,  yellow  and  red, 

§  Hibiscus,  yellow,  reddish  centre, 

*  Horned  Poppy,  yellow  and  scarlet, 
t  Hunneniania,  brilliant  yellow, 
Hypecoum,  three  species,  yellow, 

§  Ice  Plant,  white, 

f  Jacobea,  purple,  spotted,  &c., 

Job's  Tears,  gray. 

Larkspur,  dwarf  Rocket,  white,  tlus, 

purple,  pink,  and  other  colours, 
Larkspur,  branching,  various  colours 
Lavatera,  red,  purple,  and  white, 
Love  lies  bleeding,  crimson, 
Lunaria,  purple, 

*  Lupins,  dwarf  annual,  yellow,  pur- 

ple, rosp,  two-coloured,  &c., 
Malesherbia,  blue, 

*  Malope,  tall  scarlet,  &c., 

*  Malope,  dwarf  crimson,  rose. 
Marigold,  African,  yellow,  orange, 


Difficult,  to  transplant. 

Feet  high. 
Nigella  damascena,  Hispanica, 

orientaUs,  saliva,  etc.,  1  to 2 

Nigella  nana,  1 

Mesembryanthemiim  glahrum,  1  to  2 
Didiscus  cceruleus,  2  to  3 

St)lanum  melon gena,  lto2 

Erissimum  pcrofskianum,  1  to  2 
Escholtzia,  crocea,  cristata,  Cal- 

Californica,  etc.,  1 

Xcrantheinum.  lucidum,  var,  lu- 

tea,  bracttutum,  alba,  2  to  3 

Euphorbia  variegata,  2  to  3 

(Enothera  linearis,  Drummondii, 

tetraptera,  micrantha,  etc.,     1  to  2 
(Enothera  grandijlora,  2  to  3 

(Enothera  sulcifolia,  3  to  4 

Stipa  pin.nata,  avenacea,  I  to  2 

Adonl's  minata,  lto2 

Francoa  appendiculata,  1  to  2 

Galardia  picta,  1  to  2 

Garidella  nigellastrum,  1  to  2 

Gilia  capituia.  tricolor,  etc-,  1  to  2 
Gomphrena  glohnsa,  1  to  2 

Neninphila  insignis,  1 

Goielia  viminea,  3  to  4 

Godclia  rubricunda,  2  to  3 

Godetia  lepida,  Lyndleynna,etC;  1  to  2 
Gypsiphila  elcgans,  viscosa,  1  to 2 
Vrepis  barhata  rubra,  1  to  2 

Hibiscus  Africanus,  2  to  3 

Glauceum  luteum,  phceniceiitn,  2  to  3 
Hunneniania  famerix,  folia,  3  to  4 
Hypernum  prncunibens,  etc.,  I  to  2 
Mcsembryanthonum,  var.  1 

Seneclo  purpura  a,  elegans,  etc.,  1  to 2 
Coix  lachryma  Jo'd,  2  to  3 

BelqMniutn  ajucis,  alba,  cceru- 

lea,  purpurea,  etc,  1  to  2 

Delphinium  consolida,  etc.,  2  to  3 
Lavatera,  trimestris,  alba,  etc.,  4  to  6 
Amaranthus  melanchnlicus,  1  to  2 
Lunaria  purpurea,  1  to  2 

Lupinus  nanus,  densijlorus,  6t- 

color,  etc,  1  to  2 

Malesherbia  coronata,  2  to  3 

Malope  grandijlora,  etc.,  3  to  4 

Malope  irijida,  malacoidcs,  1  to  2 
Tagefes  erecta,  3  to  4 


20 


ANNUAL    FLOWER    SEED. 


5  Denotes  tender.       f  Perennial.       *  Difficult  to  transplant 


Marigold,  French,  variegated, 
Marigold,  sweet,  yellow  striped, 
§  Marigold,  Fig,  yellow, 
Martyniii,  or  Cuckold's  Horn, 
+  Marvel  of  Peru,  or  Four  O'Clocks, 

white,  yellow,  red, striped  scented, 
•f-  Mignonette,  sweet  scented. 
f  Monkey   i'lower,    yellow,  scarlet, 

rose,  &c ,  variegated, 
§  Nierembergia,  several  varieties  of 

various  colours. 
Kolana,  in  varieties,  blue, 

•  Oats,  animated,  green, 

f  Pansy,  or  Heart's  Ease,  purple, 
blue,  yellow,  and  numerous  shades, 
variegated, 

Pentaptes.  scarlet, 

Plilox,  annual,  rosy  red,  &c. 

Pimpernel,  blue  and  scarlet, 

*  Poppy,  lar-e  white  and  scarlet, 

*  Poppy,  dwarf,  scarlet,  white,  j^el- 

low,  striped,  Persian  red,  &c., 
Portulaca,  two  var.,  purple,  scarlet. 
Prince's  Feather,  crimson. 
Rocket  Candytuft,  white,  &c.. 
Rose  Campion,  annual,  dwarf  red, 

purple,  white,  striped,  &c. 
Salpiglossis,  variegated,  purple,  &c., 
Saphonaria,  or  Silene,  rose, 
t  Schizanthus,   in    variety,  orange, 

wLng-leaved,  &c., 
§  Sensitive  Plant,  red, 
Shortia,  yellow, 

§  Stevia,  Vanilla  scented,  white 
Stock  Gilly.  Virginian,  lilac. 
Strawberry  Spinach,  red  fruit, 
Strephtanthus,  rose-coloured. 
Sunflower,  yellow. 
Sunflower,  dwarf,  yellow, 
San  Rose,  spotted, 

*  Sweet  Balm,  blue, 

•  Sweet  Basil,  blush,  lilac. 

Sweet  Sultan,  white,  yellow,  purple, 

•  Ten  Week  Stock,  scarlet,  purple, 

white,  &c., 
§  Tobacco  in  varieties,  scarlet,  yellow. 
Touch  me  not,  yellow,  [&c., 

TrefoUi  crimson  and  scented, 


Feet  high. 
Tagetes  pafula,  2  to  3 

Calendula  (ifficinalis,  lto2 

Mesenihryarilhemrim  annutis,  1 

Marfynia  proboscidea,  2  to  3 

Mirabilin  jalapa,  lutea,   rubra, 

striata,  longiflora,  etc.,  2  to  3 

Reseda  odor  at  a,  under       1 

Mimuliis  moschafus,  cardinalis, 

rivularius,  roseus,  etc.,  1  to  2 

Nierembergia  intermedia,  viola- 

cea.  Phoenicia,  etc.,  2  to  3 

Nolanap!trad()xia,prosfrata,etc  1  to  2 
Avena  sensifiva,  2  to  3 

Viola  tricolor,  grandiflora,  afro, 

purpurea,  cosrulea,  lutea,  etc., 

under       1 
Pentaptes  phoonida,  1  to  2 

Plilox  Drummondii,  etc.,  1  to  2 

Anagallis  indica,  arvensis,  1 

Papaver  somniferum.  coccinea,  3  to  4 
Papnver  r/iceas,  nudicale,  Persi- 

cum,  rubra,  striata,  etc.,         1  to  2 
Portulaca  splendens,  coccinea,  1 

Amaranthus  hypocondriacus,     2  to  3 
Iberis  coronaria.  etc.,  1  to  2 

Agrostenima  caeli,  rosea,  githago, 

lacta,  etc.,  1 

Salpiglossis,  atro  purpurea,        2  to  3 
Saphonaria  vaccaria,  2  to  3 

Schizanthus  retusus,  pinnatus, 

obtusifolia,  etc.,  lto2 

Mimoso  sensitiva,  under       1 

Shortia  Calif omica,  1  to  2 

Stevia  serrata,  1  to  2 

Malcomia  maritima,  1 

Blitum  cnpitatum,  1  to  2 

Strepianthus  ohtusifolius,  2  to  3 

Helianthus  annuus,  6  to  8 

Helianthus  minor,  nanus,  2  to  3 

Helianthemuni  guttatum,  lto2 

Melissa  odoratum,  1  to  2 

Ocynium  basiliacum,  1  to  2 

Centaurea  moschata,  etc.,  1  to  2 

Mathiola  annua  varieties  gras- 

ca,  tenella,  etc,  1  to 2 

Nicofiana,  tabacum,  rusiica,      3  to 4 
Noli  mi  tangere,  1 

Trifolium  incarnatum,  etc.,      3  to  4 


ANMJAL    FLOWER    SEED.  21 

S  Denotes  tender.        t  Perennial.       •  Difficult  to  transplant. 

.  _          ,  I'eet  Wgh. 

"  Venus  s  Looking-GIass,  lilac,  Campanula  speculum,                \  to  2 

Vesicaria,  in  varieties,  yellow,  Vesicaria  grandiflora,  etc.,         2  to  3 

+  Verbena,  in  varieties,  scarlet,  rose,  Verbena   aubletia,    bonariensis, 

blue,  lilac,  pink,  &c.,  Drummondii, pukhella,  etc.,  1  to  3 

Zinnia,  scarlet,  yellow,  violet-colour-  Zinnia  coccima,  latea,  grandi- 

ed,  red,  &c.,  flora,  rubra,  etc.,                     2  to  3 

The  following  are  climbing  and  trailing  plants,  which  should 
be  planted  in  situations  where  they  can  be  supported  by  poles, 
twine,  or  trellises. 

The  tallest  growing  vines  and  creepers  are  best  adapted 
to  the  covering  of  arbours,  to  create  shade,  or  conceal  any 
unsightly  object ;  the  procumbent  trailing  and  low  climbing 
plants,  such  as  the  Nasturtium,  Loasa,  Petunia,  Sweet  Pea, 
&c.,  may  be  trained  on  trellis-work  of  an  ornamental  form,  as 
that  of  a  fan,  balloon,  or  pyramid,  which  should  be  on  a  scale 
con-esponding  to  the  situation  and  extent  of  the  garden. 

Feet  high 
Balloon  Vine,  or  Love  in  a  Puff,  Cardiospermum  halicacabum,over  10 
§  Balsam  Apple  and  Pear,  Momonhxa  balsamina,  ot'Cr  10 

Bean  Hyacinth,  white  and  purple,      Dolichos  alba,  purpurea,  over  10 

^  Bean,  scarlet  flowering,  Fhaseolus  multiflurus,  overlQ 

Bean,  Castor  Oil,  or  Palma  Christi,     Ricinus  communis,  6  to  6 

§  Cypress  Vine,  scarlet  and  white,     Ipomcea  coccinea,  alba,  over  10 

Gourd,  Mock  Orange,  in  varieties,  Cucurbita  bicolor,  aurantia,  over  10 
Gourd,  the  Bottle,  in  varieties,  Cucurbita  lagenaria,  elevata,         10 

§  Loasa  or  Chillian  Nettle,  orange,  Loasa  lateritia,  aurantiaca, etc.,  3  to  6 
Maurandia,  blue,  Maurandia  Barclay  ana,  over  10 

§  Morning  Glory,  scarlet  striped,  &c.,  Ipomcea  coccinea,  striata,  etc.,  over  la 
Morning  Glory,  of  the  Convolvulus  Convolvulus    major,  purpurea, 

tribe,  purple,  striped,  yellow,  pink,       casrulea.  striata,  lutea,  incar- 

white,  &c.,  7iata,  alba,  etc.,  over  10 

Nasturtium,    orange   and    crimson,  Tropoeolum      atrosanguineum, 

variegated,  nana,  etc.,  4  to  6 

§Thunbergia,  wing-leaved,   purple,  Tkunbergia  alata,  etc.,  4  to  6 

+  Petunia,  purple,  white,  rose,  &c.,  Petunia  mjctaginiflora,  etc.,  2  to  3 
Sweet    Peas,   various   complexions,  Lathyrus   odoratus,    var.   alba, 

white,  purple,  red,  rose,  striped,  &c.      purpurea,  rosea,  striata,  etc.,  3  to  4 

As  many  city  gardens  are  so  limited  as  not  to  admit  of  an 
extensive  assortment  of  flowers,  a  select  list  may  be  made 
from  the  above  catalogue,  to  suit  the  taste  of  such  as  may  be 
so  situated;  and  amateurs,  who  cultivate  on  a  larger  scale, 


22  ANNUAL    FLOWER    SEED. 

can  obtain  such  additional  sorts  as  may  be  desired  at  the 
different  seed  stores,  under  their  various  names. 

Previous  to  providing  annual  flower  seed,  the  cultivator 
should  lay  out  a  plan  of  his  garden,  and  in  making  allotments 
of  ground  for  any  particular  j^urpose,  provision  should  be 
made  for  a  select  assortment  of  such  bulbous,  tuberous,  and 
perennial  plants,  as  may  be  deemed  most  worthy  of  attention, 
not  fororettino-  to  leave  room  for  some  of  the  choicest  varieties 
of  the  Dahlia,  the  qualities  of  which  will  be  described  hereafter. 
Another  consideration  is,  to  have  at  hand  suitable  imple- 
ments, so  that  the  work  may  be  peiformed  in  a  skillful  man- 
ner, and  at  the  proper  season.     A  spade,  rake,  hoe,  trowel, 
drilling  machine,  and  pruning  knife,  may  be  deemed  essen- 
tial ;  and  in  order  to  have  the  beds  laid  out,  with  the  edges 
straight  and  even,  a  garden  line  should  be  in  readiness.     If 
labels  should  be  required,  they  may  be  made  of  shingles, 
which  being  split  into  strips  about  an  inch  wide,  and  sharp- 
ened at  one  end,  will  serve  for  marking  distinct  kinds,  either 
in  pots,  or  on  the  borders.     In  order  to  have  the  names  or 
numbers  written  in  legible  characters,  the  labels  should  be 
painted  on  the  smooth  side  with  white  lead,  and  then  marked 
with  a  black  lead  pencil  before  the  paint  gets  dry ;  inscrip- 
tions made  in  this  way  will  be  as  durable  as  the  label  itself. 
The  next,  and  perhaps  the  most  important  consideration, 
is,  to  have  the  ground  in  good  condition  to  receive  the  seed. 
In  order  to  attain  this  desirable   object,  let  some  good  I'icli 
compost,  or  very  old  manure,  be  provided  and  well  mixed 
with  the  soil  ;  dig  it  a  full  spit  deep,  pulverizing  every  parti- 
cle.    It  would  be  an  advantage  if  the  ground  could  be  dug 
to  a  great  depth  at  the  clearing  up  of  winter,  and  then  again 
at  the  period  of  sowing  seed  in  the  Spring  : 

"  I  come,  I  come — ye  have  called  me  long — 
I  come  o'er  the  mountains  with  light  and  song! 
Ye  may  trace  my  steps  o'er  the  wakening  earth, 
By  the  winds  which  tell  of  the  Violet's  hirth, 
By  the  Primrose-stars  in  the  shadowy  grass, 
By  the  green  leaves  opening  as  I  pass." 


ANNUAL    FLOWER    SEED.  23 

A  mellow  loam,  which  is  a  medium  earth  between  the 
extremes  of  clay  and  sand,  enriched  with  pulverized  manure 
or  compost,  is  adapted  to  the  generality  of  flowering  plants  ; 
ground,  however,  of  a  boggy  nature,  composed  of  black 
earth,  decayed  leaves,  &c.,  and  in  a  low  situation,  is  essen- 
tial to  the  luxuriant  growth  of  amphibious  plants,  as  Water 
Lilies,  Iris,  Lobelia,  and  the  like ;  but  as  the  cultivator  has 
not  always  a  choice,  he  may  select  such  plants  only  as  are 
most  congenial  to  his  jDeculiar  soil  and  situation. 

Previous  to  digging  flower  beds  or  borders,  care  must  be 
taken  that  they  are  so  arranged  that  the  ground  may  be  a 
little  elevated  in  the  middle ;  this  is  essential  to  the  draining 
off"  of  a  redundancy  of  water,  as  well  as  to  the  exhibition  of 
plants  to  the  greatest  possible  advantage. 

All  kinds  of  annual  flower  seed  may  be  sown  in  the  months 
of  April  and  May,  on  boiders  or  beds  of  pulverized  earth; 
the  beds  should  be  levelled,  and  the  seed  sown  either  in  small 
patches,  each  kind  by  itself,  or  in  drills,  from  an  eighth  to 
half  an  inch  deep,  according  to  the  size  or  nature  of  the 
seed.  Lupins,  Peas,  &c.,  should  be  planted  about  half  an 
inch  deep.  Those  who  would  have  their  plants  flower  early, 
should  sow  the  hardy  kinds  the  last  week  in  March,  or  early 
in  April.  Those  varieties  marked  thus  f,  and  thus  §,  may 
be  sown  in  boxes,  or  pots  of  light  earth,  at  the  same  time. 
These,  if  exposed  to  the  sun  every  day,  and  sheltered  in 
cold  nights,  will  be  forwarded  in  growth,  and  be  tit  to  trans- 
plant early  in  June.  Those  marked  *  may  also  be  sown  in 
small  pots  ;  and  as  these  plants  will  not  bear  transplanting, 
they  should  be  turned  out  of  the  pots  with  the  balls  of  earth 
entire,  and  placed  in  the  ground  where  they  are  intended 
to  flower ;  or,  if  the  seed  be  sown  in  a  bed  with  other  kinds, 
they  should  be  carefully  transplanted  with  a  trowel,  without 
disturbing  their  roots. 

The  most  eligible  way  to  obtain  early  flowers  is  to  prepare 
a  slight  hot-bed  for  the  tender  kinds,  (see  Calendar  for  Janu- 
aiy,)  and  either  plunge  the  pots  therein  up  to  their  brims, 


24  ANNUAL    FLOWER    SEED. 

or  SOW  the  seed  in  the  earth  in  shallow  drills,  not  more  than 
a  quarter  of  an  inch  deep.  It  may  be  necessary  to  state, 
that  although,  in  favourable  seasons,  flower  seed  in  general 
will  come  up  in  from  one  to  three  weeks  after  it  is  sown, 
the  seed  of  the  Cypress  vine  will  not  grow  until  settled  warm 
weather,  unless  in  a  hot-bed ;  it  should  be  soaked  for  about 
half  an  hour  in  moderately  warm  water,  previous  to  being 

BOWTl. 

If  some  of  the  hardy  annuals  be  sown  in  September,  they 
will  grow  large  enough  to  survive  the  winter,  if  slightly 
covered  with  straw  or  litter;  and  if  plants  thus  raised  be 
transplanted  early  in  the  sjjring,  they  will  produce  very  early 
flowers.     The  following  are  some  of  the  hardiest : 

Alyssum,  Sweet.  Evening  Primrose. 
Coreopsis,  or  Calliopsis.  Larkspur,  in  varieties. 
China  Aster,  in  varieties.  Pansy,  or  Heart's  Ease- 
Catch  Fly.  Poppy,  in  varieties. 
Chrysanthemum,  in  varieties.  Rocket  Larkspur. 

To  prevent  disappointment,  I  would  recommend  that  great 
care  be  taken  to  keep  the  seed  beds  as  clear  from  weeds  as 
possible.  It  cannot  be  denied  that  young  plants  are  apt  to 
get  smothered,  and  sometimes  pulled  up  with  weeds.  To 
obviate  this,  I  would  suggest  that  the  seed  be  sown  in  shallow 
drills,  each  kind  by  itself,  and  that  an  account  be  kept  of  the 
contents  of  each  drill  in  a  book ;  also  of  all  seed  that  are 
Bown  at  different  times  ;  and  by  being  particular  in  the  dates, 
you  may  always  know  when  to  expect  your  plants  to  come 
Tip.  Those  persons  totally  unacquainted  with  plants,  will, 
by  this  means,  be  enabled  to  identify  each  particular  kind, 
and  thus  become  familiarly  acquainted  with  them.*     In  order 

•  Lest  the  reader  should  think  that  the  author  is  here  shifting  his  own 
duty  and  responsibility  on  the  cultivator,  it  may  be  necessary  to  observe 
that  a  definition  of  all  the  peculiar  qualities,  forms,  attitudes,  and  habits 
of  growth,  of  the  numerous  species  and  varieties  of  plants  embraced  in  an 
extensive  catalogue,  with  minute  directions  for  the  most  appropriate  culture 
of  each,  would  alone  occupy  more  space  than  is  allotted  to  this  treatise  ; 
and  that  to  expatiate  on  all  the  various  features  of  the  floral  kingdom,  is  a 


ANNUAL    FLOWER    SEED.  25 

that  this  may  be  rendered  plain  to  my  readers,  I  shall  adopt 
the  following  plan  of  entry  of  six  kinds  sown  in  pots,  and 
eix  in  the  open  ground  : 

April  20,  sowed  flower  seed  in  pots. 

Pot  marked  A,  or  1,  Amaranthus  tricolor. 
"  B,  or  2,  Balsainines. 

"  C,  or  3,  Cockscomb. 

"  D,  or  4,   Egg  Plant. 

"  E,  or  5,  Ice  Plant. 

"  F,  or  6,  Mignonette. 

These  pots  may  be  either  marked  -with  letters  or  figures 
on  the  outside,  to  answer  with  the  book,  or  notches  may  be 
cut  in  wood,  or  other  labels  affixed  to  the  pots,  and  entered 
accordingly. 

April  30,  sowed  flower  seed  in  drills,  as  under  : 

No.  1,  Bladder  Ketmia. 

"  2,  Coreopsis  Tinctoria. 

"  3,  Yellow  Eternal  Flower. 

"  4,  Globe  Amaranthus. 

"  5.  Princes'  Feather. 

"  6.  Larkspur,  branching. 

If  these  numbers  be  continued  to  100,  or  even  1,000,  there 
can  be  no  mistake,  provided  the  rows  are  all  marked  accord- 
ing to  the  entry  in  the  book ;  or  if  No.  1  be  noted,  plain 
sticks  will  answer  afterward,  if  one  be  stuck  at  each  end  of 
every  row.  In  this  case  it  would  be  well  to  leave  a  space 
every  ten  or  twenty  rows,  and  note  the  number  of  rows ;  by 
this  means,  they  can  be  more  easily  traced. 

task  which  no  author  has  ever  attempted ;  nor  can  any  library  be  found 
containing  such  a  desideratum. 

The  cultivator  of  a  small  garden  may,  however,  by  means  of  a  memo- 
randum book,  describe  the  peculiarities  of  such  plants  as  come  under  his 
special  care,  as  upriglit,  procumbent,  trailing,  climbing,  busby,  slender- 
stalked,  herbaceous,  shrubby,  &c.,  and  thus  learn  how  to  cultivate  and 
arrange  the  same,  or  similar  plants,  advantageously  in  succeeding  years ; 
and  it  must  be  admitted  that  a  few  flowers,  selected  so  as  to  harmonize  in 
their  colours  and  habits  of  growth,  cultivated  with  precision,  as  respects 
soil  and  situation  congenial  to  them,  and  trained  and  pruned  into  regular 
and  compact  shapes,  will  yield  more  pleasure  and  amusement  than  three 
times  the  number  taken  promiscuously  and  cultivated  under  one  uniform 
treatment,  as  is  the  general,  though  not  most  judicious,  practice 

3 


26  ANNUAL    FLOWER   SEED. 

Some  species  of  Dwarf  Annuals,  such  as  Sweet  Alyssum, 
Candytuft,  Clarkia  Pulchella,  Mignonette,  Pimpernell,  and 
such  others  as  grow  not  over  a  foot  in  height,  may  be  culti- 
vated in  small  beds,  either  separate  or  two  or  three  kinds 
mixed  together.  Clarkia  Pulchella  suits  very  well  with 
Mignonette,  as  it  will  thrive  in  moderately  poor  soil,  which  is 
the  best  adapted  for  that  plant  when  fragrance  is  an  object.* 

The  best  way  to  manage  the  mixed  species,  is  to  level  a 
narrow  border  of  rather  poor  soil,  and  sow  it  all  over  with 
Mignonette,  then  with  Clarkia  Pulchella ;  when  the  plants 
are  up,  both  kinds  should  be  thinned  out  equally,  so  as  to 
leave  the  plants  from  one  to  two  inches  apart  all  over  the 
bed;  these,  when  they  come  into  blossom,  will  form  a  rich 
mass,  and  have  a  very  pretty  effect,  the  bushiness  of  the 
Mignonette  hiding  the  naked  stalks  of  the  Clarkia.  The 
White  Alyssum  and  Purple  Candytuft  form  a  pleasing  con- 
trast when  mixed  in  equal  proportions,  and  also  the  Dwarf 
Gilia  and  Blue  Pimpernell. 

The  new  species  of  Dwarf  Annual  Phlox,  [Phlox  Drtim- 
inondii,)  are  described  in  a  London  Magazine  as  a  splendid 
sight  when  cultivated  in  a  bed.  "  Every  flower,  though  of 
the  deepest  carmine,  has  its  petals  of  a  pale  blush  colour  on 
the  under  side,  and  every  petal,  though  of  the  palest  pink, 
has  a  dark  carmine  spot  at  its  base.  Thus  the  variety  of 
colours  displayed  in  a  bed  of  these  flowers,  almost  exceeds 
description  ;  and  when  they  are  seen  under  a  bright  sun,  and 
agitated  by  a  gentle  breeze,  the  effect  is  extraordinarily 
brilliant." 

When  seed  are  intended  to  be  sowai  in  patches,  which  is 
often  done  for  want  of  an  unoccupied  border,  the  best  way 

*  The  reason  that  some  Mignonette  has  scarcely  any  scent  is,  because 
the  soil  in  which  it  is  cultivated  is  too  rich  ;  and  this  leads  me  to  remark 
farther,  that  what  some  call  Tree  Mignonette,  and  admire  on  account  of  its 
ft-agrance,  is  not  a  distinct  variety,  but  the  ordinary  kind,  cultivated  as  a 
perennial  plant.  It  may  be  propagated  by  cuttings,  and  trained  so  as  to 
form  a  tree  ;  which  being  transplanted  into  poor  ground,  will  yield  more 
fragrance  than  wlien  grown  as  an  annual  in  a  rich  compost. 


ANNTJAL    FL()^7ER    SEED.  27 

to  peiform  this  business  is,  after  having  pulverized  the  soil, 
to  impress  circular  drills  in  the  surface  with  the  rim  of  a 
flower  pot,  which  may  be  large  or  small,  according  to  fancy. 
By  sowing  seed  in  such  circular  drills,  the  plants  can  be  more 
easily  traced  than  when  scattered  promiscuously  over  the 
ground,  and  the  weeds  can  be  destroyed  with  less  risk  and 
trouble.  Such  kinds  as  are  marked  in  the  Catalogue  thus  * 
may  remain  as  sown,  or,  if  parted,  they  should  be  removed 
with  a  scoop  ti'owel  in  a  careful  manner,  in  small  tufts ;  and 
this  business,  as  well  as  transplanting  in  general,  should 
always  be  done  immediately  preceding  or  after  rain,  and  in 
cloudy  weather.t 

Herbaceous  plants  in  general  will  not  flower  well  if  grown 
in  clusters ;  they  should,  therefore,  be  thinned  or  trans- 
planted into  the  regular  beds,  at  all  favourable  opportunities, 
after  they  get  about  an  inch  in  height ;  and  as  there  is  always 
a  risk  of  some  plants  not  taking  root,  it  is  safest  to  plant  a 
few  of  each  sort  every  time,  taking  care  to  diversify  the 
colours,  and  also  to  leave  a  few  plants  in  the  seed  beds,  for 
the  purpose  of  substituting  in  the  room  of  such  plants  whose 
period  of  flowering  may  be  over ;  as  is  the  case  generally 
with  early  Perennial  plants  and  bulbs,  at  about  the  season 
that  the  last  of  the  Annuals  are  fit  to  remove. 

The  transplanting  may  be  done  with  a  small  trowel,  or  a 
neat  dibble  made  for  the  purpose. 

+  The  risk  and  trouble  of  transplanting  may  be  avoided  by  adopting  the  fol- 
lowing method  of  sowing  the  seed.  Take  a  dollar  package  of  twenty  varieties, 
and  number  the  bags  from  one  to  twenty  ;  then  sow  a  circle  from  each  bag 
in  the  order  in  which  they  are  numbered,  and  insert  a  short  stick  in  the 
centre  of  each  circle  as  a  mark.  By  this  method  the  twenty  varieties  are 
distributed  along  the  border  in  succession,  and  as  each  bag  will  be  sufficient 
for  three  circles,  sixty  circles,  or  three  assortments  of  twenty  varieties,  may 
be  sown  in  three  different  aspects  of  the  garden,  which  will  not  only  give 
the  various  flowers  the  best  possible  chance  with  regard  to  exposure,  but 
show  the  varieties  to  the  greatest  possible  advantage.  By  preserving  the 
bags,  the  mere  novice,  by  referring  to  the  name  and  number  on  each,  will 
become  acquainted  with  the  different  varieties,  from  the  order  in  which  they 
stand  in  his  garden.  This  system  may  be  practised  to  advantage  either  oa 
a  large  or  small  scale. 


28 


PRELIMINARY  OBSERVATIONS 


TO    THE    CATALOGUE    OF 


BIENNIAL  AND  PERENNIAL  FLOWER  SEED. 


The  remarks  preceding  our  Catalogue  of  Annuals  will, 
with  few  exceptions,  apply  to  that  of  Biennials  and  Per^- 
nials;  and  it  may  be  observed  farther,  that  the  circulation  of 
the  sap  in  the  roots  and  stalk  of  plants  is  influenced  by  like 
causes,  and  subject  to  the  same  vicissitudes,  as  the  germin- 
ation of  seed,  which  principle  is  exemplified  by  some  plants 
of  various  species  putting  forth  their  leaves  and  flowers  at  a 
later  period  than  others  in  the  same  location,  as  if  waiting 
for  nature  to  replenish  the  earth  with  food  adapted  to  their 
respective  requirements;  which,  by  the  gradual  changes  from 
cool  to  temperate,  and  from  that  to  warm  weather,  is  effected 
to  that  degree  as  to  enable  all  the  various  species  of  plants, 
collected  from  every  climate  and  soil  under  the  sun,  to  reward 
the  industrious  cultivator  by  a  gi'adual  exhibition  of  their  fasci- 
nating blossoms,  and  a  distribution  of  their  odoriferous  sweets, 
throughout  the  three  propitious  seasons  of  the  year,  i.  e., 
spring,  summer,  and  autumn. 

In  distinguishing  between  Biennials  and  Perennials,  I  have 
only  marked  such  as  are  apt  to  die  after  once  blossoming, 
and  which  can  only  be  renewed  from  seed.  Some  of  those 
species,  frequently  classed  wdth  Biennials,  as  Aquilegia  oi 
Columbines,  Dianthus,  &c.,  are  in  reality  Perennial,  and 
may  be  easily  perpetuated  from  year  to  year,  by  suckers,  lay- 
ers, or  any  of  the  ordinary  methods  of  propagation ;  and  here 
I  would  observe,  that  frequent  renewal  of  the  roots  of  Per- 
ennials is  absolutely  necessary  to  their  prosperity  or  very 
existence;  and  also  that  many  species  are  by  nature  best 


BIENNIAL    AND    PERENNIAL    FLOWERS.  29 

adapted  for  propagation  at  the  footstalks,  from  their  yielding 
little  or  no  seed  at  the  top  of  the  plant.  This  is  particularly 
the  case  with  choice  double-flowering  plants,  the  roots  of 
which,  in  many  cases,  constitute  the  seed;  these,  consequently, 
must  be  perpetuated  by  root  offsets,  cuttings,  &c. 

The  annexed  Catalogue  embraces  a  great  proportion  of 
the  most  desirable  of  what  are  termed  fibrous-rooted  herba- 
ceous plants ;  the  seed  or  roots  of  which  may  be  obtained  at 
seed  stores  and  nurseries.  The  estimated  height  applies  to 
plants  of  a  year's  growth;  some  will  arrive  to  more  than 
three  times  that  height  when  cultivated  in  a  greenhouse,  and 
even  in  open  ground  culture  the  same  plants  will  vary  con- 
siderably, according  to  the  soil  or  situation  in  which  they  are 
grown ;  the  specified  height  however,  although  unavoidably 
imperfect,  may  serve  as  a  guide  to  the  gardener  in  arranging 
his  flower  beds.  Those  marked  thus  t,  being  tender  and  half 
hardy,  will  need  protection  in  the  winter;  those  marked  thus  |I 
are  Biennial;  those  marked  thus*  yield  little  or  no  seed- 
There  are  also  many  other  species  of  which  the  seed  is  un- 
attainable, from  its  being  suffered  to  scatter  by  the  wind,  and 
in  some  cases,  from  the  climate  being  unfavourable  to  its 
ripening ;  these,  as  will  be  shown  hereafter,  may  be  perpetu- 
ated by  other  methods. 


30 


A    CATALOGUE 


BIENNIAL  AND  PERENNIAL  FLOWER  SEED. 
Graines  de    flews  bisannueUes  et  vivaccs. 


t  Denotes  tender.       II  Biennial. 


Seed  unattainable. 


Adonis,  Spring-flowering,  j-ellow, 
Alpine  Columbine,  purple, 
Alyssum,  yellow, 
Asclepias,  orange,  purple,  &c., 
Asiatic  Globe  Flower,  yellow, 
tAuricula,  variegated, 
•f-Balm  of  Gilead,  fragrant. 
Bee  Larkspur,  blue  and  brown, 
Bergamot,  crimson,  blue, 
•fCanary  Aster,  purple, 
fCalceolaria,  various  colours. 
Campanula  Peren.,  blue,  white,  &c., 
[Canterbury  Bells,  blue,  white, 
tCaper  Tree,  green. 
Cardinal  Flower,  in  varieties,  scarlet, 
Cassia,  Maryland,  yellow, 
tCarnation  Pink,  various  colours, 
•■f-Celcia,  red  and  yellow,  variegated, 
Chinese  Imperial  Pink,  variegated, 
fChinese  Primrose,  lilac,  white, 
fCistus,  yellow, 
tClandanthus,  white, 
tClerodendron,  scarlet. 
Clove  Imperial  Pink,  crimson, 
tColutea,  scarlet, 
"Coreopsis,   Perennial,  in  varieties, 

yellow, 
•fCoronilla,  yellow, 
•Coronet,  or  double  Lychnis,  scarlet, 
JClary,  purple-topped. 
Columbine,  various  colours, 
•fDaisy,  Garden,  various  colours, 
Dragon's  Head,  bluish  pink, 
Dragon's  Head,  purple  and  striped, 
European  Globe  Flower,  yellow, 
(Evening  Primrose,  yellow, 
Eupatorium,  blue,  white, 
[Fox-glove,  purple,  white, 


Feet  high 
AdoJtis  vernalis,  2  to  3 

Aqiiilegia  alpina,  1  to  2 

Alyssum  saxatUe,  1 

Asclepias  incarnata,  etc.,  2  to  3 

Trollius  Aslatic'.is,  3  to  4 

Primula  auricula,  under       1 

Bracncephalum  canariense,  1 

Delphinium  elatum,  4  to  6 

Monarda  Kalmiana,  didyma,  2  to  3 
Cineraria  amelloides,  1 

Calceolaria  variabilis,  2  to  3 

Canipanula  persicafolia,  etc  2  to  3 
Campanula  medium,  2  to  3 

Euphorbia  lathyrus,  2  to  3 

Lobelia  cardinalls,  etc-,  3  to  4 

Cassia  Marylandica ,  3  to  4 

Dianihus  caryophyllus,  1  to  2 

Celcia  orientalis,  1  to  2 

Bianthus  Chinensis,  1  to  2 

Primula  Chinensis,  under       1 

Ciitus  guttatus,  1  to  2 

Clandanthus  arabicus,  2  to  3 

Clerodendron  speciosum,  4  to  5 

Dianihus  hortensis,  1  to  2 

Sutherlandia  frutescens,  2  to  3 

Calliopsis  grandiflora,  lanceolO' 

turn,  auriculata,  etc.,  2  to  3 

Conmilla  glauca,  2  to  3 

Lychnis  coronata,  2  to  3 

Salvia  sclara,  1  to  2 

Aquilcgia  vulgaris,  1  to  2 

Bellis  perennis,  hortensis,  under  1 
Dracocephalum  Virginianum,  3  to  4 
Dracocephalum  argumtnse,etc.  1  to  2 
Trollius  Europoeus,  2  to  3 

(Enothera  biennis,  3  to  4 

Eupatorium  ceruLea,  etc.,  2  to  3 

Digit  alls  purpurea,  alba,  3  to  4 


BIENNIAL    AND    PERENNIAL    FLOWERS. 


31 


t  Denotes  tender.       D  Biennial.       *  Seed  unattainable. 


Fraxinella.  red,  white, 
Gentian,  purple,  yellow,  white, 
Gentian,  porcelain-flowered, 
•j-Geranium,  various  colours, 
Globe  Thistle,  purple, 
+Hepatica,  blue,  pink. 
Hibiscus,  pink,  white,  purple, 
Hollyhock,    Antwerp,    Cliina,    and 

English,  of  various  colours, 
|(Honesty,  or  Satin  Flower,  blush, 
flndian  Shot,  yellow,  scarlet, 
til  Ipomopsis,  scarlet. 
Ivy-leaved  Toad  Flax,  pink, 
Jacob's  Ladder,  blue, 
f  Jerusalem  Cherry,  red  fruit. 
Larkspur,  Perennial,  purple,   pink, 

white,  &c., 
*Liatris,  long  spiked,  purple, 
*Lily  of  the  Valley,  white, 
+Lotus,  brown, 
+Lisianthus,  scarlet, 
tLupin,     Perennial,     blue,     white, 

changeable,  &c., 
•Lychnidea,  or  American  Phlox,  lilac, 

purple,  red,  white,  &c., 
*Lychnidea,  early,  pink,  &c., 
*Lychnis,  Mountain,  variegated, 
Lyclinis,  scarlet, 
London  Pride,  variegated, 
tMesembryanthemum,    variegated, 

yellow,  white,  purple,  &c., 
•fMexican  Sage,  scarlet. 
Monk's  Hood,  white,  blue,  &c., 
Monkej' Flower,  yellow,  purple  spots, 
f  Oleander,  pink,  white, 
*Pardanthus,  Chinese,  orange, 
Pentstemon,  purple. 
Perennial  Flax,  purple, 
fPeriwinkle,  Madagascar,  rose,  white, 
Pink,  Pheasant-eyed,  variegated, 
tPolyanthus.  variable  and  splendid, 
Poppy,  Perennial,  red,  yellow, 
Potentilla,  rose,  puce,  yellow, 
+  ll Pyramidal  Bell  Flower,  blue, 
*Queen  of  the  Meadovv.s,  white,  rose, 
•Ragged  Robin,  or  Red  Lychnis, 
Rocket,  Garden,  purple, 
JRose  Campion,  or  Mullen   Pink, 

rose,  white,  &c., 


Feet  high. 
Dictamniis  rubra,  alba,  1  to  2 

Geniiana  purpurea,  luiea,  etc-,  l 
Geiiiiana  adscendens,  2  to  3 

Pelargonium  zonule,  2  to  3 

Echinops  sphwmcephalus,  2  to  3 

Anemone  hepatica,  under       1 

Hibiscus  palustri^,speciosus,  etc.  3  to  4 
Alfhea  flora  Clwiensis,  Anglica, 

etc.,  4  to  5 

Lunaria  biennis,  2  to  3 

C.anna  Indica.  lutea,  coccinca,  1  to  2 
Ipomopsis  elegans,  3  to  4 

Lunaria,  cyrubalaria,  lto2 

Polemonium  ceruleiim,  lto2 

Solanuni  pseudo,  capsicum,  2  to  3 
Delphinium    grandijlorum,  pe- 

rennis,  2  to  3 

Liatris  spicata.  elegans,  etc.,  3  to  4 
Convalleria  majalis,  1 

Lotus  jacobeus,  2  to  3 

Lisiantfius  Russellianus,  2  to  3 

Lupinus    perennis,    mutabilis, 

variabilis,  etc.,  2  to  3 

Phlox  puniculala   accuminata 

Pl/ramidalis,  odorata,  etc.,  3  to  4 
Phlox  subulata,  stolonifera,  etc.  1  to2 
Lychnis  Alpin a,  1  to  2 

Lychnis  Cliakedonica,  3  to  4 

Dianthus  deltoides,  1 

Mescm  bryanthemii  m      acinaci- 

forine,  spectabile,  tricolor,  etc.,  1  to  2 
Salvia  splendens,  2  to  3 

Aconitum  album,  versicolor, etc.  4  to 6 
Mimulus  ringens,  luteus,  etc.  1  to 2 
Nerium  Oleander,  2  to  3 

Pardanihus  Cliinensis,  1  to  2 

Pentstemon  campanulata,  2  to  3 
Lin um  perennis.  2  to  3 

Vinca  rosea,  alba,  1  to  2 

Dianthus  jilumarius,  under  1 
Primula  polyanthus,  under  1 
Papavcr  orientate,  bracteata,  2  to  3 
Potentil  la  formoso,  splendens,  1  to  2 
Campanula  pyramidalis,  3  to  4 

Spiraea  ulmaria,  lobata,  etc.,  3  to  4 
Agrostemma  flos  cucula,  1  to  2 

Htsperis  mntronalis,  2  to  3 

Agrostemma   coronaria,    rosea, 

alba,  etc.,  2  to  3 


32 


BIENNIAL    AND    PERENNIAL    FLOWERS. 


t  Denotea  tender.       U  Biennial.       *  Seed  unattainable. 

Feet  high. 
Rudbeckia,  yellow,  purple,  Rudbeckia,  hiiea,  purpurea,       3  to  4 

Saphonaria,  rose  blush,  Snphonaria  officinalis,  etc,        1  to  2 

•Saxifrage,  rose  white,  purple,  Saxifraga  luiibrusn, craskifolia,         1 

JSnapdragon,  white,  red,  variegated,  Antirrhinum  bicolor,  versicolor, 

in  several  splendid  varieties,  coccinea,  spartium,  etc.,  1  to  2 

Sophora,  white,  blue,  &c,,  Sophora  alba,  autralis,  2  to  3 

+  |Stock  Gilliilower,  numerous  varie-  Mathiolainramts, coccinea, alba, 

ties,  scarlet,  while,  purple,  striped,       purpurea,  striata,  etc.,  1  to  2 


•Sunflower,  yellow, 
[Sweet  Scabious,  purple,  brown. 
Sweet  VVilliam,  various  colours, 
•Thrift,  pink  and  red. 
Valerian,  Garden,  red,  white, 
Valerian,  Sweet-scented,  blue, 
Veronica,  variegated,  blue, 
•Violet,  Fragrant,  white,  blue,  &c., 
tllWallflowcr,  bloody,  yellow, 
•fWallflovver,  double  perennial, 
tllWall-leaved  Stock  Gilliflower, 
•Windflower,  various  colours. 
Yucca,  or  Adam's  Needle,  white. 


Hcliaiilhiisperennis,  alfissimits,  3  to  4 
Scabiosa  utro,  purpurea,  etc.,  2  to 3 
liianthus  barbutus,  1  to  2 

Staiice  vulgaris,  speciosa,  under  1 
Valeriana  rubra,  alba,  2  to  3 

Polvmonium  cerulea,  3  to  4 

Veronica  variegata,  cerulea,  2  to  3 
Viola  odorata,  alba,  cerulea,  under  1 
Cherianthus  cheiri,  1  to  2 

Cheiranthus  perennis,  1  to  2 

Cheiranthus  glaber,  1  to  2 

Anemone  coronaria.  lto2 

Yucca  filamentoca,gloriosa,  etc.  3  to  4 


CLIMBING  PLANTS. 

[For  the  otlier  lists  of  Climbing  Plants,  see  Catalogue  of 
Flowering  and  Ornamental  Shrubs ;  also  the  Catalogue  of 
Annuals.! 


Calampelis,  orange, 

f  Climbing  Cobea,  dark  purple. 

Everlasting  Peas,  pink, 

JFrench  Honeysuckle,  white,  red, 

+Lophospermum,  pink, 

•fPassion  Flower,  various  colours, 


Eccremocarpus  scabra,  over    6 

Cobea  scandens,  over  20 

Lathyrus  la  f  if  alius,  rosea,  over  10 
Hedysarum  coronarium,  etc.,  over  6 
Lophospermum  scaiidens,  over  6 
Passijlora  incarnata,  etc.,       over  20 


The  reader  is  here  reminded  that  our  Catalogue  of  Annual 
Flower  Seed  contains  a  few  varieties  of  Perennials,  which 
were  there  introduced  because  of  their  aptness  to  blossom 
the  first  season  of  the  seed  being  sown  ;  these,  with  those 
marked  t  in  the  last  Catalogue,  may  be  sown  and  treated  in 
the  manner  recommended  for  tender  Annuals.  Those  in- 
tended to  be  cultivated  as  green-house  plants,  should  be 
taken  up  before  the  approach  of  cold  weather,  transplanted 


BIENNIAL    AND    PERENNIAL    FLOWERS.  33 

into  flower-pots,  and  sheltered  either  in  a  garden-frame, 
green-house,  or  light  room.  Those  plants  with  tuberous 
roots,  such  as  Dahlias,  Marvel  of  Peru,  and  also  some  others 
of  the  Bean  and  Pea  tribe,  may  be  cut  down  late  in  the  au- 
tumn, and  the  roots  taken  up  and  preserved  in  the  same 
manner  as  those  of  other  tuberous  and  bulbous-rooted  plants, 
of  which  I  shall  treat  hereafter. 

Hardy  Biennial  and  Perennial  flower  seed  may  be  sown 
in  the  month  of  April,  in  shallow  drills.  If  this  business  be 
performed  in  the  manner  recommended  for  Annuals,  they 
can  be  easily  distinguished  from  each  other ;  and  as  these 
plants  do  not  flower  the  first  year,  they  may  be  thinned  out, 
or  removed  from  the  seed-beds  as  soon  as  they  are  well 
rooted,  and  planted  either  in  different  parts  of  the  flower- 
beds, or  in  a  nursery-bed.  If  the  latter  plan  be  adopted, 
they  should  be  planted  in  rows  a  foot  or  more  apart,  and 
kept  free  from  weeds  by  means  of  a  small  hoe,  which  will 
greatly  promote  their  growth,  and  prepare  them  for  trans- 
planting into  the  regular  and  permanent  blossoming-beds, 
either  in  the  autumn  or  early  in  the  ensuing  spring. 

It  may  be  here  observed  that  Biennials  seldom  survive  the 
second  winter  to  flower  in  perfection,  unless  they  are  renewed 
by  cuttings  of  top  shoots,  young  flower  stalks,  or  casual  off- 
sets, layers,  &c.  It  will  be  unnecessary  to  take  this  trouble, 
unless  with  some  extraordinaiy  double-flowering  plants. 
Some  of  the  Perennials  may  be  increased  by  root  offsets 
detached  from  the  old  j^lants,  and  planted  in  spring  or  au- 
tumn; others  by  bottom  suckers  and  slips  of  top  shoots, 
layers,  pipings  of  young  shoots,  &c.  Pinks,  Sweet  Williams, 
Pansies,  and  double  Violets,  also  Periwinkle,  or  running 
Myrtle,  and  many  other  similar  plants,  may  be  increased  by 
simply  laying  their  branches  an  inch  or  two  under  the  sur- 
face, in  July  and  August.  After  roots  have  formed,  which 
may  be  expected  in  six  or  eight  weeks,  each  tuft  or  plant 
may  be  transplanted  into  the  borders. 

!Many  sorts  of  Biennial  and  Perennial  flower  seed  may  be 


34  BrENNIAL    AND    PERENNIAL    PLANTS. 

sown  in  September,  or  as  soon  as  ripe  ;  and  if  the  plants  get 
strong  before  winter  sets  in,  some  of  tliem  will  flower  the 
ensuing  summer.     The  following  are  among  the  hardiest : 

Adonis,  Spring-flowering.  Lychnis,  in  varieties. 

Alpine  Columbine.  Larkspur,  perennial. 

Alyssum,  yellow.  Rose   Campion,   in    varieties. 

Bee  Larkspur.  Rocket,  in  varietips. 

Columbine,  in  varieties.  Scabious,  in  varieties. 

Evening  Primrose.  Valerian,  Garden. 

Fox-glove,  in  varieties.  Veronica. 

Fraxinella.  Everlasting  Peas,'?   ,.    ,. 

„,,,,.  ...  .,,..,„"  >-chmbing. 

Hollyhock,  in  varieties.  Virgin  s  Bower,   3 

It  may  be  necessary  here  to  remind  the  reader  of  those 
species  of  beautiful  double-flowering  Perennial  herbaceous 
plants,  which  do  not  produce  seed ;  some  of  these  are  in- 
cluded in  our  Cataktgue  ;  they  may  be  obtained  at  the  nur- 
series, and  should  be  introduced  into  the  regular  flower-beds, 
either  in  autumn  or  early  in  the  spring ;  the  best  mode  of 
increasing  these,  and  all  double-flowering  Perennials  raised 
from  seed,  is  by  layers,  cuttings,  offsets,  &c.,  detached  from 
the  old  plants.* 

As  the  earth  in  the  flower-beds  will  require  to  be  fresh 
dug  and  replenished  with  good  compost  or  manure  once  in 
two  or  three  years,  it  may  be  necessary  to  take  up  all  the 
Perennial  plants  at  such  times.  Such  roots  as  are  overgrown 
should  be  deprived  of  their  surplus  offsets,  and  either  planted 
in  a  nursery-bed,  or  returned  with  the  parent  plants  into  the 


*  It  may  here  be  observed,  that  the  most  certain  method  of  obtaining  dou- 
ble, flowers,  is  by  propagation  from  Perennial  plants.  Many  seed  custom- 
ers leel  disappointed  if  they  do  not  in  every  case  procure  double  flowers  from 
Bced,  which  is  unreasonable,  because,  although  seed  will,  under  ordinary 
circumstances,  reproduce  its  species,  it  will  by  no  means  uniformly  pro- 
duce the  particular  variety  by  which  it  was  borne.  The  ex-ierience  of 
numerous  amateurs  will  corroborate  this  fact,  who  frequently,  after  saving 
seed  from  their  most  perfect  flowers,  have  the  mortification  of  witness- 
ing such  degeneracy  the  following  season  as  would  lead  them  to  doubt 
its  identity,  had  the  seed  been  obtained  from  any  other  source.  Seed  gath 
ered  from  double  Balsams,  or  Lady  Slippers,  for  instance,  will  frequently 
produce  semi-double  and  single  flowers  the  next  season. 


BIENNIAL    AND    PEREXXIAL    PLANTS.  S5 

re^mlar  flower-beds  ;  they  should  be  inserted  a  little  deeper 
than  before,  and  the  fine  fresh  earth  distributed  well  about 

the  fibres.  •         i    i 

In  removing  plants  into  the  beds  where  they  are  intended 
to  blossom,  great  pains  should  be  taken  to  preserv'e  some  of 
the  earth  to  their  roots.     The  ground  should  be  previously   > 
brought  into  good  condition,  so  that  they  may  strike  freely 
and  m-oduce  their  flowers  in  perfection.     The  plants  should 
be  so  arranged  that  they  may  all  be  seen,  the  most  dwarfish 
being  placed  in  front,  and  the  taller  kinds  in  regular  grada- 
tions behind  ;  or  the  tallest  may  be  planted  along  the  middle 
of  the  beds,  and  the  others  on  each  side,  according  to  their 
varied  heights  and  colours. 

There  is  no  part  of  gardening  which  requires  so  much 
the  exercise  of  taste  and  fancy,  as  in  setting  off"  a  border  or 
bed  of  intermixed  flowers  to  advantage.  In  association  with 
other  flowers,  the  diff-erent  kinds  of  hardy  bulbs  may  be 
planted  in  small  clumps  of  six,  seven,  or  eight  mches  in 
diameter,  three,  four,  five,  or  more  roots  in  each,  according 
to  their  size  and  growth,  and  these  at  suitable  distances  from 
each  other.  Likewise  observe  to  diversify  the  kinds  and 
colours,  so  as  to  display,  when  in  bloom,  the  greatest  possi- 
ble varietv  of  shades  and  contrasts. 

If  green-house  plants  be  plunged  into  the  flower  borders 
in  the  month  of  ^lay,  they  will  not  only  tend  to  ornament 
the  garden  by  their  diversity  of  foliage  and  blossom,  but  the 
roots  will  receive  a  more  uniform  supply  of  moisture,  than 
if  the  pots  were  exposed  to  the  sun  and  wind :  care  should, 
however,  be  taken  to  give  the  diff-erent  species  a  situation 
suitable  for  them.  Hydrangeas,  Primulas,  Daisies,  Olean- 
ders, Camellias,  China  Roses,  and  half-hardv  plants  m  gene- 
ral, thrive  best  in  a  moderately  shaded  situation,  l^erani- 
ums,  Jasmines,  Heliotropes,  &c.,  may  be  plunged  in  a  sunny 
situation,  provided  they  be  regularly  supplied  with  water. 
Many  species  planted  for  ornament  in  the  flower  borders, 
may  at  the  same  time  be  propagated  by  layers.     The  Fuchsia 


36  BIENNIAL    AND    PERENNIAL    PLANTS. 

or  Ear-drop,  Passion  Flower,  Heliotrope,  Carnation,  Petu- 
nia, running  Verbena,  &c.,  will,  if  layed  in  June  or  July, 
exhibit  their  blossoms  in  perfection,  and  yield  young  plants, 
which  being  preserved  through  winter,  may  be  used  to  re- 
plenish flower-beds  the  ensuing  spring.* 

*  In  some  countries  the  wealthy  have  changeable  flower  gardens,  which 
are  so  arranged  that  their  productions  can  be  changed  at  pleasure,  so  that 
whenever  any  plant,  or  group  of  plants,  begins  to  decay,  it  can  be  removed, 
and  its  place  supplied  by  others  coming  into  bloom.  To  elTect  tiiis,  a  large 
reserve-nursery  is  requisite,  in  which  the  plants  must  be  kept  in  pots,  and 
removed  and  plunged  in  the  borders  as  wanted.  Sir  W.Chambers  informs 
us  that  the  Chinese  excel  in  this  mode  of  gardening  ;  and  that  he  has 
known  a  mandarin  ((>r  noble)  to  have  the  whole  furniture  and  style  of  his 
parterre  changed  in  a  single  night,  so  as  to  present  next  morning  not  only 
a  different  description  of  flowers,  shrubs,  and  dwarf  trees,  but  a  different 
arrangement  of  the  beds  and  comjiartments.  Something  of  the  same  kind 
is  practised  in  the  gardens  of  the  Tuileries,  in  Paris  ;  in  some  of  the  im- 
perial gardens  at  Petersburgh,  and  in  the  vice-royal  gardens  at  Monza. 
Gardens  of  this  description  admit  of  a  very  perfect  arrangement  of  the 
flowers,  whether  in  the  mingled  manner,  in  select  groups,  or  according  to 
the  natural  method.  It  is  only  with  such  resources  that  a  flower  gar- 
dener can  "  paint  his  way,"  as  Sir  W.  Chambers  says  the  Chinese  artists 
do,  "  not  scattering  their  flowers  indiscriminately  about  their  borders,  but 
disposing  of  them  with  great  circumspection  along  the  skirts  of  the  plant- 
ations, or  other  places  where  flowers  are  to  be  introduced.  They  reject  all 
that  are  of  a  straggling  growth,  and  of  harsh  colours  and  poor  foliage, 
choosing  only  such  as  are  of  some  duration,  grow  either  large  or  in  clus- 
ters, are  of  beautiful  forms,  well  leaved,  and  of  tints  that  harmonize  with  the 
greens  that  surround  them.  They  avoid  all  sudden  transitions,  both  with 
regard  to  dimension  and  colour,  rising  gradually  from  the  smallest  flowers 
to  those  of  the  boldest  growth;  and  varying  their  tints,  by  easy  gradations, 
from  white,  straw-colour,  purple,  and  incarnate,  to  the  deepest  blues,  and 
most  brilliant  crimsons  and  scarlets.  They  frequently  blend  several  roots 
together,  whose  leaves  and  flowers  unite,  and  compose  one  rich,  harmoni- 
ous mass  ;  such  as  the  white  and  purple  Candytuft,  Larkspurs,  and  Mal- 
lows of  various  colours,  double  Poppies,  Lupins,  Primroses,  Pinks,  and 
Carnations  ;  with  many  more  of  which  the  forms  and  colours  accord  with 
each  other  ;  and  the  same  method  they  use  with  flowering  shrubs,  blending 
white,  red.  and  variegated  roses  together,  purple  and  white  lilacs,  yellow 
and  white  jasmines,  altheas  of  various  sorts,  and  as  many  others  as  they 
can  with  any  propriety  unite.  By  these  mixtures  they  increase  considera- 
bly the  variety  and  beauty  of  their  compartments.  In  their  large  planta- 
tions, the  flowers  generally  grow  in  the  natural  ground  ;  but  in  flower  gar- 
dens, and  all  other  parts  that  are  highly  kept,  they  are  in  pots  buried  in 
the  ground,  which,  as  fast  as  the  bloom  goes  off,  are  removed,  and  others 
are  brought  to  supply  their  places  ;  so  that  there  is  a  constant  succession 
for  almost  every  month  in  the  year ;  and  the  flowers  are  never  seen  but  in 
the  height  of  their  beauty." — Loudon's  Encyclupvedia  of  Gardening. 


BIENNIAL    AND    PERENNIAI,    PLANTS.  37 

It  may  be  observed  farther,  that  established  plants  will 
always  produce  their  blossoms  earlier  and  stronger  in  the 
spring,  than  those  recently  transplanted ;  it  should,  there- 
fore, be  an  object  with  gardeners  to  do  the  business  of  form- 
ing permanent  flower-beds  and  of  transplanting  hardy  Peren- 
nial and  Biennial  plants,  in  September  or  October. 

The  hardy  bulbous  roots  must  also  be  planted  in  October 
or  November,  which  on  being  properly  preserved  through 
the  winter,  will  embellish  the  parterre  in  spring  by  their 
early  and  Fiust  Flowers. 

"  First  flowers  of  the  sprin?  time, 

Bright  gems  of  the  year. 
All  lovely  and  blooming. 

How  fresh  ye  appear  ; 
Springing  up  in  the  garden, 

The  hedge-row  and  vale, 
Enriched  by  the  showers. 

And  fann'd  by  the  gale." 

In  my  preliminary  observations,  I  directed  the  attention 
of  my  readers  to  some  important  points  respecting  walks, 
edgings,  ifcc.  Although  box  is  supeiior  to  any  thing  else 
for  edgings,  yet,  in  extensive  gardens,  dwarf  plants  of  vari- 
ous kinds  may  be  used  for  such  purpose.  Thrift  is  the  neat- 
est small  evergreen  next  to  box  ;  but  Violets,  Pinks,  Peri- 
-winkle,  Pansy,  Iris,  Stone  Crop,  or  even  Parsley,  Thyme, 
Strawberry  plants,  &c.,  may  bo  used  for  the  sake  of  diver- 
sity. These  will  require  frequent  watering  and  trimming, 
and  the  Thrift,  &c.,  should  be  sometimes  taken  up,  divided 
at  the  roots,  and  replanted. 

Box  edgings  will  also  require  frequent  pruning  and  trim- 
ming ;  and  once  in  from  seven  to  ten  years  the  whole  may 
be  taken  up,  divided,  and  replanted,  and  the  surplus  slips 
may  be  planted  in  a  nursery-bed,  in  rows  about  afoot  apart ; 
these  vnW  be  suitable  for  making  edgings  the  year  following. 

Flower-beds  should  be  kept  free  from  weeds,  and  watered 
occasionally  in  the  summer.  In  the  autumn  they  should  be 
covered  with  leaves,  straw,  or  light  litter;  this  should  bo 

4 


38  FLOWERING    AND    ORNAMENTAL    SHRUBS. 

taken  otT  in  the  spring,  and  the  ground  hoed  and  dressed  in 
such  a  manner  as  to  enliven  the  earth  around  the  roots  of 
the  plants,  and  to  give  the  whole  a  neat  appearance. 


FLOWERING  AND  ORNAMENTAL  SHRUBS. 
Arhrisseaux  d^Ornement. 

Shrubs  are  so  closely  connected  with  flowering  plants, 
and,  indeed,  so  many  of  them  are  embellished  with  flowers, 
that  they  may  be  considered  as  essential  to  the  completion 
of  an  ornamental  garden.  They  are  all  Perennial,  and  are 
divided  into  two  classes,  deciduous  and  evergreen ;  the  for- 
mer lose  their  leaves  in  the  winter,  the  latter  only  shed  them 
when  others  are  ready  to  supply  their  places. 

Shrubs  are  not  only  necessary  to  the  embelHshraent  of  a 
flower  garden,  but  many  kinds  are  eligible  for  hedges  to  it, 
and  may  be  planted  at  a  trifling  expense.  These  hedges 
should  be  frequently  trimmed  and  trained,  the  sides  cut  even 
and  the  tops  sparingly  clipped,  so  as  to  make  them  orna- 
mental as  well  as  useful,  and  also  to  increase  the  vigour  of 
their  growth.  When  hedges  become  open  or  naked  at  the 
bottom,  they  should  be  plashed  down ;  this  is  done  by  cut- 
ting the  branches  half  through  near  the  ground ;  they  will 
then  bend  easily,  and  may  be  interwoven  with  the  adjoining 
branches. 

When  shrubs,  creepers,  or  climbers,  are  planted  against 
walls  or  trellises,  either  on  account  of  their  rarity,  delicacy, 
or  to  conceal  a  rough  fence,  or  other  unsightly  object,  they 
require  different  modes  of  training ;  some  attach  themselves 
naturally,  as  the  Ivy,  and  merely  require  to  be  occasionally 
guided,  so  as  to  cause  a  regular  distribution  of  their  shoots  ; 
others  must  be  treated  like  fruit  trees,  trained  thinly,  if 
blossoms  are  the  object,  and  rather  thick,  if  the  intention  be 
to  show  the  foliage  to  the  greatest  possible  advantage. 


FLOWERING    AND    ORNAMENTAL    SHRUBS.  39 

Ornamental  shrubs  grow  from  one  foot  to  twelve  or  more 
feet  in  height ;  and  where  such  are  planted  for  ornament,  the 
height  of  each  plant,  when  full  grown,  should  be  considered, 
and  also  the  mode  of  growth,  that  every  one  may  be  so 
planted  as  to  show  to  advantage,  observing  that  the  tall- 
growing  kinds  should  be  planted  in  the  back  part  of  the 
borders,  and  those  of  low  growth  in  front;  but  if  they  are 
required  to  be  planted  in  clumps,  they  should  be  so  arranged 
as  to  rise  gradually  fx'om  the  sides  to  the  middle,  and  be 
afterward  neatly  trimmed. 

Shrubs  require  an  annual  pruning,  at  which  time,  cut  out 
all  iiTegular  and  superfluous  branches,  and  head  down  such 
as  require  it,  forming  them  into  handsome  bushes.  Apply 
stakes  to  such  as  need  support,  and  see  that  the  low-growing 
ones  do  not  injure  each  other,  or  interfere  with  other  dwarf- 
ish plants  near  them. 

Many  kinds  of  shrubs  may  be  raised  from  seed  sown 
early  in  the  spring,  but  are  more  commonly  propagated  by 
suckers,  layers,  or  cuttings.  Like  other  plants,  they  require 
a  good  soil,  which  should  be  manured  every  two  or  three 
years,  and  some  of  the  tender  kinds  should  have  some  pro- 
tection in  winter. 

The  following  list,  taken  from  '  The  New- York  Farmer,' 
furnished  by  Mr.  Floy,  contains  the  most  of  those  usually 
planted  in  gardens  and  on  lawns.  These  will  afford  a  suc- 
cession of  flowers  from  spring  until  autumn,  and  may  be  ob- 
tained at  the  nurseries  at  moderate  prices. 


CATALOGUE,  &c. 

Jlmorpha  fruiicosa,  Indigo  shrub,  produces  handsome 
bunches  of  purple  flowers  in  June  and  July. 

Amygdalus  na?ja,  Dwarf  double-flowering  Almond;  a  very 
beautiful  shrub,  about  three  feet  high;  blossoms  early  in 
April. 


40  FLOWERING    AND    ORNAMENTAL    SHRUBS. 

Jlralia  spinosa,  or  Angelica  tree,  about  ten  feet  high. ; 
flowers  in  very  large  bunches,  and  continues  a  long  while  in 
bloom. 

Cytisus  Laburnum,  or  Golden  Chain  ;  a  most  elegant  shrub, 
producing  long  racemes  or  bunches  of  yellow  flowers  in 
June  and  July ;  there  are  two  kinds,  the  English  and  the 
Scotch  Laburnum.  The  Scotch  is  the  largest,  forming  a 
pretty  large  shrub ;  the  English  kind  is  greener,  more  com- 
pact, and  by  some  thought  to  be  the  handsomest ;  they  ought 
to  be  in  every  garden. 

Calycantlms  Floridus,  Allspice,  or  sweet-scented  shrub,  a 
native  of  the  Southein  States ;  the  flowers  are  of  a  very 
dark  chocolate  colour,  and  the  fiagrance  very  much  resem- 
bles ripe  strawberries ;  easily  kept  when  once  introduced. 
This  shrub  generally  grows  about  five  feet  high  in  gardens, 
and  blossoms  from  May  to  August. 

Ceanothus  Americamis,  Red  Root,  or  Jersey  Tea  Tree ;  a 
plant  or  two  in  the  collection,  as  it  flowers  in  profusion,  is 
worth  having. 

Cercis  siliqtiastrum,  or  Judas  tree.  The  flowers  appear 
very  early  in  the  spring,  before  the  leaves  come  out,  and 
make  a  fine  appearance ;  as  it  grows  rather  tall,  it  is  calcu- 
lated for  the  back  row  of  the  shrubbery. 

Cohitea  arborescens,  or  Bladder  Senna,  having  bunches  of 
yellow  flowers  in  June  and  July,  which  are  succeeded  by 
seed  in  a  kind  of  bladder ;  calculated  for  the  back  or  centre 
row  of  shrubberies. 

Cratcbgvs  oxyacantha,  the  Hawthorn.  It  makes  a  pretty 
appearance  planted  out  singly  in  the  back  or  centre  row ; 
the  flowers  are  very  fragrant;  it  is  sometimes  called  the 
Pride  of  May ;  the  double  white,  double  scarlet,  and  single 
scarlet  Hawthorn,  are  very  beautiful,  and  ought  to  be  in 
every  plantation.  Hawthorn  hedges  are  much  used  in  Eng- 
land, where  they  look  very  handsome  when  clipped ;  but 
they  do  not  answer  so  well  in  this  country,  the  heat  of  our 
summers  causing  the  leaves  to  fall  off"  early,  often  in  July ; 


FLOWERING   AND    ORNAMENTAL    SHRUBS.  41 

on  that  account  they  are  not  much  used.     We  have  several 
things  which  are  better  calculated  for  that  purpose. 

Cydonia  Japonica,  or  Pyi'us  Japonica,  a  very  beautiful 
scarlet  flowering  shrub,  from  Japan.  It  is  found  to  be  very 
hardy,  resisting  our  most  severe  frosts  ;  it  flovrers  very  early, 
and  continues  a  long  time  in  bloom.  A  second  floweiing 
takes  place  in  the  latter  part  of  the  summer.  It  is  every 
w^ay  a  desirable  shrub. 

Daphne  mezerion,  one  of  our  most  early  flowering 
shrubs,  which  blooms  freely  in  April  and  May,  and  is  very 
sweet-scented.  It  is  rather  tender  in  some  situations, 
but  will  stand  our  ordinary  winters  very  well  in  a  sheltered 
situation. 

Dirca  palustris,  or  Leather  Wood  ;  a  pretty  little  shrub, 
growing  very  regular  in  shape,  and  has  the  appearance  of  a 
large  tree  in  miniature ;  it  is  a  native  of  our  Northern 
States ;  the  flowers,  which  appear  very  early  in  the  spring, 
are  yellow,  and  come  out  before  the  leaves. 

Gymnoclachis  Canadensis,  or  Kentucky  Coffee  tree.  The 
berries  bear  a  resemblance  to  coffee,  and  are  said  to  be  a 
good  substitute  for  it ;  however,  it  is  a  beautiful  tree,  with 
handsome  feathered  leaves,  and  makes  a  fine  contrast  ■with 
others.  It  should  be  planted  in  the  back  or  the  centre  of 
the  plantation  ;  it  is  very  hardy. 

Halesia  diptera,  and  Halesia  tetraptera,  two-winged  and 
four-winged  Silver  Bell,  or  Snow-drop  tree.  They  are  both 
natives  of  the  Southern  States,  but  are  perfectly  hardy  here  ; 
our  most  severe  winters  do  not  injure  them.  The  former 
kind  flowers  in  April,  and  the  latter  withholds  its  blossoms 
until  May.     They  are  elegant  shrubs. 

Hibiscus  Sijriacus,  fl.  plena,  the  double-flowering  Althea 
frutex,  of  which  there  are  several  varieties ;  the  double 
white,  double  red,  double  red  and  white,  and  striped,  are 
the  most  showy  ;  they  begin  to  flower  late  in  July,  and  con- 
tinue until  Autumn.  The  single  kind,  of  which  there  are 
many  varieties,  are  scarcely  worth   cultivating,  the  double 


42  FLOWERING    AND    ORNAMENTAL    SHRUBS. 

ones  being  raised  quite  as  easily,  and  are  equally  hardy. 
These  are  indispensable  in  eveiy  plantation. 

Hypericum  fnitescens,  Shrubby  Hypericum.  There  are 
several  species  of  thi  j  small  but  beautiful  shrub,  all  natives 
of  the  Southern  States,  but  perfectly  hardy  here.  They  all 
flower  profusely  in  the  summer,  and  continue  for  a  long  time. 
They  should  be  planted  in  the  front  row. 

Kerria  Japonic  a,  or  Corchonis  Japonica,  yellow  Japan  Globe 
Flower;  although  a  native  of  Japan,  like  many  other  Ja- 
panese flowers,  it  is  perfectly  hardy  here.  It  flowers  in  the 
greatest  profusion  at  all  times,  except  in  the  very  dead  of 
winter,  and  will  grow  in  almost  any  soil  or  situation. 

Kcrlreutcria  pcmiculata,  Japan  Bladder  tree,  or  Kcslrolerius. 
This  is  another  hardy  shrub  from  Japan.  It  has  long  race- 
mes of  flowers,  succeeded  by  a  bladder-like  fruit,  and  is 
worthy  of  cultivation  in  every  good  collection. 

Lignstyttm  viilgave,  virens,  large  European  Privet,  a  very 
handsome  evergreen  shi'ub,  flowering  profusely  in  June,  and 
producing  bunches  of  black  round  berries.  It  bears  slip- 
ping well,  and  is  therefore  veiy  suitable  for  hedges,  or  to 
enclose  ornamental  plantations.  It  grows  quick,  and  is  well 
adapted  to  our  climate  ;  when  planted  in  a  hedge-row,  and 
kept  clipped.  The  American  Privet  makes  a  beautiful 
hedge,  and  ought  to  be  in  more  general  use. 

Philadelphus  coronarius,  or  common  Syringa,  is  very  orna- 
mental, producing  its  sweet-scented  flowers  early  in  the 
spring,  and  in  abundance. 

Philadelplms  inodorous,  and  P.  grandiforus,  Garland  Sy- 
ringa, are  both  natives  of  the  Southern  States,  but  quite  hardy 
here.  Their  flowers  are  large,  and  continue  for  several 
months,  in  wreaths  or  garlands.  They  are  well  calculated 
for  the  centre  row,  and  also  to  hide  unsightly  objects,  and 
have  a  beautiful  effect  when  mixed  with  monthly  honey- 
suckles, &c. 

Persica,  or  Amygdahis  Persica,  fl.  rosea  pleno,  or  double 
flowering  Peach,  is  very  beautiful  in  shrubberies.     It  blos- 

4* 


FLOWERING  AND  ORNAMENTAL  SHRUBS.        43 

Boms  early,  and  sometimes  bears  fruit,  but  it  is  cultivated 
entirely  for  its  beautiful  blossoms.  A  few  trees  of  the  Chi- 
nese double  flowering  Apple  [Pyrus  spectabilis)  have  also  a 
beautiful  effect. 

Rhus  cotiiiKS,  Venetian  Sumach,  Aaron's  Beard,  sometimes 
called  fringe  tiee,  is  a  fine  shrub,  calculated  for  the  centre 
of  the  clump  or  shrubbery.  Its  large  branches  of  fringe 
remain  all  the  summer,  and  give  it  a  curious  and  striking 
effect. 

Ribes  JMissotiriensts,  or  INIissouri  CuiTant ;  there  are  two 
species  of  this  very  ornamental  shrub  from  Missouri,  intro- 
duced by  Lewis  and  Clarke  ;  they  are  quite  hardy,  and  flower 
profusely  from  April  to  June. 

Rabi Ilia  glut inosa,  and  Robinia  hispida;  the  former  a  pretty 
large  shrub,  producing  fine  bunches  of  flowers  in  great 
abundance  throughout  the  summer ;  the  latter  is  a  smaller 
shrub ;  both  of  them  are,  however,  worthy  of  a  ji^^ce  in 
large  collections. 

Robinia  pseudo-acacia,  or  Yellow  Locust  Tree.*  This  is 
superior  to  any  other  kind  of  wood  for  ship-tunnels,  mill- 
cogs,  and  fence-posts,  as  well  as  for  various  other  purposes. 
Its  culture  is  very  easy,  and  may  be  jaropagated  in  great 
abundance,  by  sowing  the  seed  in  March,  April,  or  May,  in 
a  bed  of  good  sandy  loam,  which  is  its  favouiite  soil,  and 
covering  them  half  an  inch  deep.  Previous  to  sowing,  put 
the  seed  in  a  basin,  poxiv  on  scalding  water,  and  let  it  stand 
all  night ;  pick  out  such  seed  as  are  swollen,  and  j^lant  them 
immediately ;  next  evening  repeat  the  same  process  with 
such  as  did  not  swell  the  first  night,  mix  the  whole  and  sow 
them  ;  they  will  come  up  in  the  course  of  the  following 
month  numerously  ;  for  no  seed  grow  more  freely,  not\%dth- 
standing  what  some  say  to  the  contrary.  When  the  plants 
are  a  year  old,  transplant  them  out  of  the  seed-bed  into  nur- 
sery rows,  four  feet  distant,  and  plant  from  plant  one  foot. 

*  This  tree  is  introduced  here,  rather  on  account  of  its  usefulness  than 
beauty,  though  the  latter  is  very  considerable. 


44  FLOWERING    AND    ORNAMENTAL    SHRUBS. 

Having  had  two  or  three  years'  growth  in  these  rows,  they 
may  be  planted  successfully  in  any  warm  and  tolerably  rich 
sandy  soil.  They  may  also  be  propagated  by  suckers,  which 
they  throw  up  abundantly,  especially  if  some  of  the  wide- 
extending  roots  be  cut  through  with  an  axe.  An  acre  of 
these  trees,  planted  at  two  feet  distant  each  way,  will  con- 
tain 10,890 ;  and  four  feet  distant,  2,722  ;  and  it  is  said  that 
no  appropriation  of  land  is  more  lucrative  than  that  devoted 
to  this  purpose.  The  Three-thorned  Acacia  seed  [Glc.dit- 
schia)  should  be  prepared  in  the  same  manner. 

Rosa,  or  Roses,  a  very  numerous  variety  of  these  ;  some 
reckon  five  or  six  hundred  kinds.  They  are  accounted  the 
most  beautiful  of  Flora's  productions.  Perhaps  a  handsome 
collection  might  be  made  out  of  about  fifty  of  the  best  sorts, 
which,  by  taking  such  quantity,  I  suppose  might  be  obtained 
at  about  fifty  cents  each,  under  name  ;  and  generally,  a  fine 
collection  unnamed  at  half  that  amount.  No  good  garden 
or  shrubbery  should  be  without  them, 

Sorbiis  micnparia,  Mountain  Ash,  or  Roan  tree.  This  is  a 
very  beautiful  shrub  of  the  larger  size ;  the  leaves  are  oraa- 
mental ;  the  flowers  and  fruit,  which  are  produced  in  large 
bunches,  are  beautiful ;  the  fruit  remains  till  late  in  the  au- 
tumn.    It  is  a  native  of  Europe. 

Sovhits  Canadensis.  This  is  a  native  of  our  Northern 
frontiers  and  mountains,  but  it  does  not  grov/  so  large  as  the 
former;  the  berries  are  smaller  and  red,  the  former  larger 
and  of  an  orange  colour ;  but  otherwise  much  resembles  it. 

Spartium  junceum,  Gentista,  etc.  Two  or  three  species  of 
Broom,  producing  numerous  bunches  of  yellow  flowers  in 
May  and  June;  the  Genista,  or  Spanish  Broom,  which  has 
white  flowers,  is  also  very  pretty,  but  not  quite  so  hardy  as 
the  former. 

Symphoria  racemosa,  or  Snow-berry,  sometimes  called  St. 
Peter's  Wort,  a  pretty  little  shrub ;  the  bunches  of  wax- 
like white  beiTles,  which  it  produces  during  the  whole  sum- 
mer, give  it  a  beautiful  appearance. 


CLIMBING    ORNAMENTAL    SHRUBS.  45 

Sijringa  vulgaris,  or  common  Lilac,  blossoming  in  May,  is 
well  known  to  all,  and  needs  no  comment.  The  while 
variety  is  not  quite  so  common.  They  are  only  used  for 
outside  plantings,  as  they  sucker  very  freely,  and  soon  make 
themselves  common. 

Syringa  Persica,  or  Persian  Lilac,  is  a  delicate  low  shrub, 
the  flowers  very  abundant,  and  the  leaves  small  and  delicate. 
There  are  two  varieties  of  the  Persian  Lilac ;  the  white 
flowering,  and  the  blue  or  purple  flowering. 

The  Chinese  cut-leaved  Lilac  is  very  curious ;  the  leaves 
are  cut  like  Parsley,  the  flowers  growing  in  longer  racemes 
than  the  former. 

Siberian,  or  large  Persian  Lilac.  The  bunches  of  flowers 
are  very  large,  and  continue  in  season  a  long  time  after  the 
common  Lilac. 

Tamarix  GaUica,  or  French  Tamarix,  and  the  Tamarix 
Germanica,  German  Tamarix,  are  two  pretty  shrubs ;  the 
leaves  and  branches  are  small  and  slender,  producing  quan- 
tities of  beautiful  flowers,  which  form  a  very  striking  contrast 
to  the  other  parts  of  the  shrubbery. 

Viburnum  opulus,  or  Guelder  Rose,  otherwise  called  Snow- 
ball, is  a  very  showy  shrub,  producing  large  balls  of  snow- 
white  flowers  in  May,  and  is  indispensably  necessary  to  every 
shrubbery. 

Vitex  agnus  castus,  or  Chaste  Tree,  a  pretty  and  singular 
shrub,  flowering  the  most  part  of  the  summer. 


CLIMBING  PLANTS. 

Ampelopsis  hederacea.  This  plant,  on  account  of  the 
largeness  of  its  leaves  and  rapidity  of  its  growth,  is  well 
adapted  for  covering  walls.  There  are  several  species,  all 
lesembling  the  vine  in  habit  and  flower. 

Jlristolocliia  sipho,  Eirthwort,  or  Dutchman's  Pipe.  A 
very  curious  blooming  plant,  with  extiaordinarily  large  foli- 


46  CLIMBING    ORNAMENTAL    SHRUBS. 

age,  well  calculated  for  an  arbour ;  affording  a  dense  and 
cooling  shade. 

Atvagene  alpina.  A  free-growing  deciduous  shrub,  with 
small  pinnated  foliage,  and  large  blush-coloured  flowers, 
which  continue  from  May  to  July. 

Bignonia  crucigera  is  a  desirable  evergreen,  being  of  a 
luxuriant  growth.  It  will  cover  in  a  few  years  an  area  of 
fifty  feet,  and  bloom  from  May  to  August ;  colour  orange. 

Bignonia  radicans,  or  Trumpet  Creeper,  produces  large 
bunches  of  red  trumpet-shaped  flowers  in  July  and  August. 
Bignonia  grandijiora,  is  much  like  the  former  in  habit 
and  appearance,  but  the  flowers  are  much  larger.  It  is  said 
to  be  a  native  of  China,  and  the  former  a  native  of  this 
country.  They  are  both  perfectly  hardy,  and  will  climb  up 
brick  work  or  wooden  fences,  without  any  assistance. 

Clematis,  or  Virgin's  Bower.  There  are  several  species, 
some  of  them  tender,  or  not  sufliciently  hardy  for  our  severe 
winters,  without  protection.  The  Clematis  azurea,  bicolor, 
and  flarna,  are  splendid  varieties.  The  Clematis  Virginica, 
Viorna,  Viticelli,  and  Vitalba,  are  perfectly  hardy,  and  blos- 
som throughout  the  summer. 

Glycine  Sinensis,  or  IVistaria  Sine7isis,  is  a  handsome  Chi- 
nese Creeper  of  recent  introduction  from  China,  and  is  not 
yet  common  in  our  nurseries.  It  is  a  beautiful  vine,  running 
to  a  great  height,  and  loaded  with. long  racemes  of  pui-ple 
flowers  throughout  the  summer. 

Glycine  fmtescens,  or  Wistaria  frutescens.  This  beautiful 
brother  of  the  Chinese  kind  is  a  native  of  our  Southern 
States,  grows  much  in  the  same  way  as  the  others,  and  is, 
perhaps,  not  inferior.  Although  this  fine  creeper  has  been 
long  known  in  England,  we  have  not  heard  inuch  about  it 
by  English  writeis ;  the  conclusion  seems  to  be,  that  it  does 
not  flower  well  in  England.  In  fact  none  of  our  Southern 
plants  do  well  in  that  countiy,  while  those  from  China  do 
very  well ;  here,  however,  it  is  quite  the  reverse.  I  have 
the  Chinese  Wistaria  Sinensis,  from  fifteen  to  twenty  feet  high, 


CLIMBING   ORNAMENTAL    SHRUBS.  47 

and  the  American  Wisiaria  about  the  same  height.  The 
Cliinese  does  not  look  so  vigorous  and  green  as  his  American 
brother.  The  American  Wistaria  should  be  planted  in  every 
garden  with  other  creepers,  or  to  run  up  the  trees  in  shioib- 
beries,  according  to  its  natural  habit. 

TIedra  Helix,  Irish  Ivy,  is  a  desirable  evergreen  for  cover- 
ing naked  walls,  or  any  other  unsightly  object.  The  leaves 
are  of  a  lively  green,  and  from  three  to  five  angled.  There 
are  several  varieties  of  it,  all  calculated  for  growing  in  con- 
fined, shady  situations,  where  plants  in  general  will  not  thrive. 

Jasminum  officinale,  Garden  Jasmine.  This  delicious 
climbing  shrub  has  from  time  immemorial  been  common  in 
Europe  for  covering  arbours.  Its  delicate  white  fragrant 
flowers  render  it  very  desirable  ;  but  it  is  rather  tender  for 
our  Northern  winters,  unless  well  protected.  In  the  South- 
ern States,  this  plant,  and  also  the  yellow  Jasmine,  [revolu- 
tum,)  grow  luxuriantly  and  bloom  profusely,  and  even  Jas- 
minum grandijiora  will  endure  the  winters  of  South  Caro- 
lina and  Georgia. 

Lonicera,  comprehending  all  the  fine  sweet-scented  honey- 
Buckles.  Of  the  Italian  kinds,  the  monthly  honeysuckle  is 
decidedly  superior,  continuing  to  flower  all  through  the  sum- 
n'ler,  until  late  in  autumn,  and  is  very  fragrant.  Some  of 
the  other  European  kinds  may  be  occasionally  introduced 
into  large  shrubberies.  There  is  a  white  honeysuckle,  lately 
introduced  from  France,  denominated  Hedijsaritm  coronariinn, 
which  is  in  great  repute.  Two  or  three  American  kinds 
deserve  particular  notice. 

Lonicera  sempervirens,  or  Coral  Trumpet,  monthly  honey- 
suckle, is  extremely  beautiful,  flowering  the  whole  of  the 
summer,  with  its  thousands  of  scarlet  bunches ;  it  is,  how- 
ever, destitute  of  scent. 

Lonicera  Fraseri,  also  an  American ;  the  flowers  are  like 
the  other  kind  in  almost  every  particular  except  colour,  tint 
being  a  bright  yellow. 

Lonicera  jnibescens,  or  Caprijolinm  pubescens,  a  large  and 


48  CLIMBING    ORNAMENTAL    SHRUBS. 

beautiful  honeysuckle  from  the  Northwest  coast ;  the  flow- 
ers are  large,  and  of  a  bright  copper  colour,  inclining  to 
orange.     They  are  all  perfectly  hardy, 

Lonicera  Jlexuosa,  Chinese  Honeysuckle,  of  late  introduc- 
tion ;  it  is  jierfectly  hardy,  withstanding  our  most  severe 
frosts  without  the  least  injury ;  it  is  a  very  sweet-scented 
honeysuckle,  grows  rapidly,  and  to  an  immense  height.  It 
flowers  in  pairs  and  threes  all  up  the  branches,  covering  the 
whole  plant  completely  with  flowers.  It  blossoms  in  spring 
and  autumn,  and  is  a  very  valuable  acquisition  to  our  gar- 
dens and  shrubberies. 

Lonicera  Japouica,  or  Japan  Honeysuckle.  This  bears 
flowers  in  great  profusion,  which  are  white,  afterward  be- 
coming of  a  light  yellow.  It  is  not  so  hardy  as  the  Chinese, 
and  requires  a  little  protection  in  the  winter. 

Passijiora,  or  Passion  Vine.  There  are  several  hardy 
species,  but  the  best  is  the  Passijiora  incaruala;  this, 
although  it  dies  to  the  ground  every  winter,  will,  during  the 
summer,  grow  fiom  twenty  to  thirty  feet,  and  yield  abun- 
dance of  beautiful  purple  flowers. 

Periplaca  "rccca,  or  Silk  Vine.  A  prolific  climber,  wood 
slender,  twining  and  elastic,  leaves  smooth,  ovate,  lanceolate. 
Established  plants  will  grow  thirty  or  forty  feet  in  one  sea- 
son, and  yield  flowers  in  clusters,  of  a  brownish  yellow 
colour,  from  May  to  July. 

I  shall  only  add  to  the  above,  the  running  kind  of  Roses; 
although  there  are  many  other  things  which  might  be  men- 
tioned 

Rosa  multiflora,  from  China,  is  pretty  well  known,  pro- 
ducing thousands  of  small  double  red  roses  in  bunches.  It 
requires  a  sheltered  situation  from  some  of  our  keen  north- 
westers. Rosa  multiflora  alba,  from  the  same  country,  is  of 
late  importation,  but  as  it  increases  readily,  may  be  obtained 
at  about  the  same  price  as  the  former ;  the  bunches  of  flow- 
ers are  white.  Rosa  GreviUia,  a  running  rose,  also  from 
China,  the  flowers  of  various  colours.     Rosa  rubifolia,  Rasp- 


PROPAGATION    OF    ORNAMENTAL    SHRUBS  49 

berry-leaved  Rose,  from  our  Northern  frontiers,  and  extend- 
ing over  the  Western  country ;  although  a  single  flowering 
rose,  it  produces  large  bunches  of  flowers,  which  are  differ- 
ently coloured  on  the  same  bunch,  exactly  like  the  foiTner 
Cliina  kind,  and  is  another  instance  of  the  similarity  of  the 
native  Chinese  plants  to  those  of  our  country. 

Rosa  canina,  ji.  pleno,  English  double  Dog  Rose,  is  a  very 
pretty  little  double  rose,  and  will  run  to  a  great  height. 
Rosa  Banksii,  Lady  Banks's  double  white  China  runnino- 
Rose  ;  it  runs  up  and  spreads  much  :  it  may  be  easily  known 
fi-ora  others  of  the  running  roses,  by  its  being  entirely  desti- 
tute of  prickles.  Rosa  .Yoiseiie,  and  Champney's,  are  said 
to  have  been  raised  from  China  seed  in  Carolina ;  they  are 
not  strictly  running  roses,  but  as  they  grow  tall,  are  fine 
ornaments  for  the  shrubbery,  flowering  during  the  whole  of 
the  summer  and  autumn,  in  large  clusters.  The  Maderia 
Rose,  or  double  white  cluster,  musk,  flowers  throuo-hout  the 
summer  and  autumn  months,  and  is  therefore  well  adapted 
for  the  shrubbery.  Rosa  Cherokensis,  called  the  Nonde- 
script, or  Georgia  Rose  ;  the  flowers  are  very  large,  being 
white,  with  yellow  centre.  This  is  a  ninnina:  rose,  o^rowino- 
very  high  around  trees,  &c. 

Rosa  rtfbiginosa,  or  Sweetbriar,  is  too  well  known  to  need 
description. 


PROPAGATION  OF  FLOWERING  SHRUBS. 

Flowerixg  shrubs  are  variously  propagated  by  slips,  cut- 
tings, layers,  suckers,  buds,  or  scions ;  and  these  may  be 
thus  defined : 

1.  Slips  are  simply  small  branches,  slipped  down  from 
the  side  of  a  large  branch,  or  from  the  main  stem.  These 
should  be  taken  from  the  parent  plants  carefully,  so  as  to 
leave  an  eye  or  heel  at  the  lower  or  butt  end. 


50  PROPAGATION    OF    ORNAMENTAL    SHRUBS. 

2.  Cuttings  should  be  made  from  shoots  or  stalks  of  a 
prior  year's  growth  ;  and  such  should  be  selected  as  are  well 
ripened,  having  their  joints  not  far  apart :  they  may  be  cut 
so  as  to  have  three  or  four  joints  in  each  cutting.  In  some 
species  of  succulent  plants,  the  joints  being  near  together, 
cuttings  need  not  be  more  than  from  four  to  six  inches  long ; 
but  shrubby  plants  in  general  will  admit  of  their  being  from 
ten  to  twelve  inches. 

3.  Layers  differ  from  cuttings  in  nothing,  except  that 
they  strike  root  into  the  soil,  while  yet  adhering  to  the  parent 
plant. 

4.  Suckers  are  in  reality  young  plants,  connected  to  the 
parent  at  the  root,  whlcli  should  be  carefully  separated  in 
spring  or  autumn,  and  transplanted  in  the  same  manner  as 
plants  raised  by  any  other  method ;  either  in  a  nursery-bed, 
shrubbery,  or  flower-boi'der. 

5.  Scions  are  of  t\vo  sorts  ;  scions  properly  so  called,  and 
buds.  A  scion  is  a  cutting,  or  portion  of  a  plant,  which  is 
caused  to  grow  upon  another  plant,  from  which  it  extracts 
fluid  for  the  nourishment  of  its  leaf  buds ;  these  thus  fed, 
gradually  grow  upward  into  branches,  and  send  woody  mat- 
ter downward,  so  as  to  become  connected  with  the  stock 
grafted  on. 

The  business  of  planting  slips,  cuttings,  &c.,  of  the  tender 
kinds  into  nursery  pots,  and  the  hardy  kinds  into  borders,  is 
generally  performed  in  spring  and  autumn ;  there  are,  how- 
ever, some  exceptions  to  this  rule,  which  will  be  explained 
hereafter.     [See  Calendar  and  Index.] 

For  the  ]:)urpose  of  raising  hardy  flowering  shrubs  by 
slips  or  cuttings,  let  a  border  be  prepared  in  a  shaded  and 
sheltered  situation,  by  manuring  and  deep  digging.  Pro- 
vide plants  about  a  foot  long,  and  insert  them  into  the  gi'ound 
full  one-third  of  their  length ;  the  rows  may  be  about  two 
feet  apart,  and  the  plants  nine  inches  from  each  other  in  the 
rows.  Press  the  ground  around  the  stems,  and  rake  it 
smooth.     The  after  management  of  nursery  beds  made  in 


PROPAGATION    OF    ORNAMENTAL    SHRUBS,  51 

spring,  is  to  keep  them  watered  in  dry  weather,  hoe  them 
occasionally,  and  by  autumn  the  plants  will  be  rooted. 

In  cold  climates,  plantations  made  in  autumn  should  be 
protected  by  a  covering  of  leaves,  straw,  or  litter,  merely 
sufficient  to  screen  the  plants  from  wind  and  the  sun's  rays 
in  time  of  freezing,  the  heat  of  the  sun  being  more  destruc- 
tive to  vegetation  in  winter  than  the  cold  weather. 

To  increase  flowering  shrubs,  rose  bushes,  or  any  other 
plants,  by  layers,  dig  the  ground  about  the  plants  to  be  ope- 
rated on  to  a  good  depth ;  then  with  a  sharp  knife  cut  be- 
tween two  joints  half  through  the  stalk  or  branch  on  the 
under  part,  turn  the  edge  of  the  knife  upward  and  make  a 
slit,  carrying  it  past  the  first  joint  half  way  to  the  next 
above ;  make  a  hollow  in  the  ground,  and  insert  the  cut  part 
from  one  to  three  inches  deep,  according  to  the  nature  of 
the  plant  operated  on,  keeping  the  branch  perpendicular, 
and  the  slit  open.  Each  layer  should  be  pegged  down  with 
a  hooked  stick,  made  from  small  branches  of  trees,  to  keep 
it  in  its  proper  position,  as  well  as  to  prevent  the  cut  part 
from  uniting  whence  the  roots  form  for  the  young  plants. 

Budding,  grafting,  and  inarching  are  often  practised  on 
shrubs,  with  a  view  to  perpetuate  improved  varieties.  Bud- 
ding may  be  performed  on  roses  of  different  descriptions,  as 
the  White  Moss,  Unique,  Tuscany,  and  other  fine  varieties, 
upon  such  wild  kinds  as  are  of  a  strong  habit.  The  best 
time  for  performing  the  operation  is  toward  the  end  of  July 
or  early  in  August,  as  the  buds  are  then  generally  matured 
so  that  the  bark  parts  freely  from  the  wood,  which  is  essen- 
tial to  the  successful  accomplishment  of  the  business. 

Grafting  is  generally  performed  in  the  spring.  There  are 
many  methods  practised  on  trees,  as  cleft  grafting,  whip 
grafting,  saddle  grafting,  side  grafting,  root  grafting,  inarch- 
ing or  grafting  by  approach,  &c.,  which  methods  are  all  fully 
explained  under  the  head  of  "  Budding  and  Graftino,"  in 
the  fruit  department.  I  shall,  however,  here  present  a  short 
view  of  the  mode  best  adapted  for  shrubs. 


52  PROPAGATION    OF    OP.NAMENTAL    SHRimS. 

Scallop  budding  is  performed  by  cutting  from  a  small 
stock  a  thin  narrow  scallop  of  wood,  about  an  inch  in  length, 
and  taking  from  the  chosen  twig  a  thin  scallop  of  wood  of 
the  same  dimensions ;  this  is  instantly  applied,  and  fitted 
perfectly  at  top  and  bottom,  and  as  neai'ly  as  possible  on  its 
sides,  and  fiimly  bound  with  bass  matting.  This  may  be 
performed  in  spring,  and  if  it  fails,  it  may  be  repeated  in  the 
month  of  July.     The  French  practise  this  mode  on  Roses. 

The  most  simple  method  of  grafting  is,  to  cut  off  the  stock 
in  a  wedge-like  manner ;  then  prepare  a  graft  having  three 
or  four  eyes ;  proceed  to  cut  a  slit  in  it  upward,  and  thrust 
it  on  the  stock,  taking  care  to  join  the  bark  of  each  together ; 
tie  them  firmly  together  with  bass,  and  immediately  cover 
the  grafted  part  with  clay  and  horse  dung  mixed;  which  being 
well  prepared,  should  be  closed  securely  round  the  graft  in 
an  oval  form. 

Inarching,  or  grafting  by  approach,  may  be  performed  as 
follows  :  The  shrubs  to  be  grafted  must  be  growing  very 
near  to  those  which  are  to  furnish  the  grafts  ;  a  branch  of 
each  must  then  be  prepared  by  making  a  long  sloping  cut 
nearly  to  its  centre  ;  the  two  must  be  brought  together,  and 
secured  by  a  bandage  of  matting,  so  that  the  bark  may  meet 
as  nearly  as  possible.  The  graft  may  then  be  covered  with 
clay  composition ;  and  when  a  complete  union  has  taken 
place,  the  plants  may  be  separated  with  a  sharp  knife,  by 
cutting  off  below  the  junction. 

As  the  above  directions  are  applicable  to  the  propagation 
and  management  of  green-house,  tender,  and  half-hardy 
plants,  as  well  as  to  hardy  shrubs  and  vines,  it  may  be  ne- 
cessary here  to  remind  the  reader,  that  delicate  roses  and 
half-hardy  woody  plants  left  out  during  the  winter,  sliould  be 
protected  either  by  bending  down  the  branches  and  covering 
them  with  soil,  or  by  tying  them  up  to  stakes,  and  binding 
straw  snugly  around  them.  At  the  same  time  throw  some 
dung  on  the  ground  about  the  roots ;  the  longest  of  which 
may  be  raked  off  on  the  approach  of  spring,  and  the  shortest 


PROPAGATION    OF    ORNAMENTAL    SHRUBS.  53 

forked  in,  so  as  to  manure  the  plants,  and  thus  give  vigour 
to  their  rising  shoots. 

Deciduous  shrubs  may  be  transplanted  at  any  time  after 
they  lose  their  leaves,  and  before  the  buds  begin  to  expand 
in  spring,  provided  the  ground  can  be  brought  into  good 
condition  to  receive  them  ;  the  holes  should  be  dug  capacious 
enough  to  hold  the  roots  without  ci'amping  them,  and  some 
earth,  well  pulverized,  must  be  thrown  equally  among  the 
fibres  of  the  roots,  which  should  be  well  shaken,  and  the 
earth  trodden  down  around  the  plants,  until  brought  to  the 
level  required.  Evergreens  should  be  removed  carefully 
with  a  ball  of  earth  connected  with  their  roots,  and  some 
good  mould  should  be  provided  to  fill  in  with. 

The  spring  pruning  of  shrubs  and  vines  should  be  attended 
to  before  the  buds  begin  to  rise  ;  say  March  in  the  Northern, 
and  January  in  the  Southern  States.  In  performing  this 
business,  use  a  sharp  knife,  in  order  that  all  amputations  and 
wounds  be  cut  and  pared  smooth,  and  in  a  slanting  manner. 
Divest  the  plants  of  all  dead  wood,  superfluous  branches, 
and  those  which  cross  each  other.  Regulate  the  plantation 
in  such  manner,  that  the  natural  form  and  habit  of  each 
plant  may  be  retained  as  much  as  possible,  and  train  the 
branches  so  that  the  sun  can  have  free  access  to  every  part ; 
bearing  in  mind  the  hints  thrown  out  in  the  Introduction  to 
our  Catalogue.  Some  shrubs  and  vines  will  need  a  summer 
pruning,  merely  to  thin  out  young  shoots,  superfluous  wood. 
Sec,  and  to  train  straggling  branches. 


54 


BEAUTIES    OF    APRIL   AND   MAY. 


The  following  article  is  submitted,  as  being  well  calcu- 
lated to  afibrd  amateurs  mental  recreation  while  engaged 
in  rural  pursuits ;  and  it  is  presumed  that  the  practical  gar- 
dener will  not  view  the  insertion  of  this  article  as  a  digres- 
sion, as  it  exhibits  the  beauty  and  order  of  the  flower  tribe 
in  propitious  climates,  or  when  cultivated  at  the  proper  sea- 
son, in  a  truly  appropriate  and  amusing  light. 

APRIL. 
"  Descend,  sweet  April,  from  yon  watery  bow. 
And  liberal  strew  the  ground  with  budding  flowers, 
With  leafless  Crocus,  leaf-veiled  Violet, 
Auricula,  with  powdered  cup,  Primrose 
That  loves  to  lurk  below  the  Hawthorn  shade." 

It  is  generally  admitted  that  the  month  of  April  gives  the 
most  perfect  image  of  spring;  for  its  vicissitudes  of  warm 
gleams  of  sunshine  and  gentle  showers,  have  the  most  powerful 
effect  in  hastening  the  universal  springing  of  the  vegetable 
tribes,  fiom  whence  the  season  derives  its  appellation.  Next 
comes  the  favourite  month  of  the  year,  in  poetical  description, 

MAY. 
"  For  thee,  sweet  month,  the  groves  green  liv'ries  wear  ; 
If  not  the  first,  the  fairest  in  the  year  ; 
Thou  dost  atTord  us  many  pleasant  hours, 
While  Nature's  ready  pencil  paints  tlie  flowers." 

The  pious  Hervey,  in  his  Meditations  on  the  Flower  Gar- 
den, has  furnished  us  many  sublime  ideas  respecting  the  order, 
variety,  and  beauty  of  the  flower  tribe.*  It  is  in  vain  to 
attempt  a  catalogue  of  those  amiable  gifts.     There  is  an  end- 

*  Those  who  have  read  Hervey's  Meditations  on  the  Flower  Garden,  will 
discover  that  the  pious  author's  phraseolo^^y,  and  several  of  his  sublime 
ideas,  are  interspersed  through  this  article,  which,  from  being  blended  with 
Other  matter,  could  not  be  designated  in  the  customary  way. 


THE  BEAUTIES  OF  APRIL  AND  MAY.  55 

less  multiplicity  of  their  characters,  yet  an  invariable  order 
in  their  approaches.  Every  month,  almost  every  week,  has 
its  peculiar  ornaments ;  not  servilely  copying  the  works  of 
its  predecessors,  but  forming,  still  forming,  and  still  executino-, 
some  new  design ;  so  lavish  is  the  fancy,  yet  so  exact  is  the 
process  of  Nature.  Were  all  the  floVer  tribe  to  exhibit 
themselves  at  one  particular  season,  there  would  be  at  once 
a  promiscuous  throng,  and  at  once  a  total  privation. 

We  should  scarcely  have  an  opportunity  of  adverting  to 
the  dainty  qualities  of  half,  and  must  soon  lose  the  agreeable 
company  of  them  all.  But  now,  since  every  species  Jias  a 
separate  post  to  occupy,  and  a  distinct  interval  for  appearing, 
we  can  take  a  leisurely  and  minute  survey  of  each  succeed- 
ing set.  We  can  view  and  review  their  forms,  enter  into  a 
more  mtimate  acquaintance  with  their  charming  accomplish- 
ments, and  receive  all  those  pleasing  sensations  which  they 
are  calculated  to  yield. 

Before  the  trees  have  ventured  to  unfold  their  leaves,  and 
while  the  icicles  are  pendant  on  our  houses,  the  Snow-drop 
breaks  her  way  through  the  frozen  soil,  fearless  of  danger. 
Next  peeps  out  the  Crocus,  but  cautiously  and  with  an  air 
of  timidity.  She  shuns  the  howling  blasts,  and  cleaves 
closely  to  her  humble  situation.  Nor  is  the  Violet  last  in  the 
shining  embassy,  which,  with  all  the  embellishments  that 
would  grace  a  royal  garden,  condescends  to  line  our  borders, 
and  bloom  at  the  feet  of  briars.  Freely  she  distributes  the' 
bounty  of  her  emissive  sweets,  while  herself  retires  from 
sight,  seeking  rather  to  administer  pleasure  than  to  win  admi- 
ration. Emblem,  expressive  emblem,  of  those  modest  virtues 
which  delight  to  bloom  in  obscurity.  There  are  several  kinds 
of  Violets,  but  the  fragrant,  both  blue  and  white,  are  the 
earliest.  Shakspeare  compares  an  exquisitely  sweet  strain 
of  m.usic  to  the  delicious  scent  of  this  flower  I 

"  Oh !  it  came  o'er  my  car  like  the  sweet  South, 
That  breathes  upon  a  bank  of  Violets, 
Stealing  and  giving  odour." 


66  THE  BEAUTIES  OF  APRIL  AND  MAY. 

The  pious  HeiTey,  in  his  admonitions  to  those  who  indulge 
in  sloth,  has  thrown  out  the  following  sublime  ideas :  What 
sweets  are  those  which  so  agreeably  salute  my  nostrils  ? 
They  are  the  bieath  of  the  flowers,  the  incense  of  the  gar- 
dens. How  liberally  does  the  Jasmine  dispense  her  odorife- 
rous riches  !  How  deliciously  has  the  Woodbine  embalmed 
tlus  morning  walk !  The  air  is  all  perfume.  And  is  not 
this  another  most  engaging  argument  to  forsake  the  bed  of 
sloth  ]  Who  would  be  involved  in  senseless  slumbers,  while 
so  many  breathing  sweets  invite  him  to  a  feast  of  fragrancy, 
especially  considering  that  the  advancing  day  will  exhale  the 
volatile  dainties  1  A  fugitive  treat  they  are,  prepared  only 
for  the  wakeful  and  industrious.  Whereas,  when  the  slug- 
gard lifts  his  heavy  eyes,  the  flowers  will  droop,  their  fine 
sweets  be  dissipated,  and  instead  of  this  refreshing  humidity, 
the  air  will  become  a  kind  of  liquid  fire. 

With  this  very  motive,  heightened  by  a  representation  of 
the  most  charaiing  pieces  of  morning  scenery,  the  parent  of 
mankind  awakes  his  lovely  consort.  There  is  such  a  deli- 
cacy in  the  choice,  and  so  much  life  in  the  description  of 
these  rural  images,  that  I  cannot  excuse  myself  without 
repeating  the  whole  passage.  Whisper  it,  some  friendly 
genius,  in  the  ear  of  every  one,  who  is  now  sunk  in  sleep, 
and  lost  to  all  these  refined  gratifications  ! 

"Awake!  the  morning  shines,  and  the  fresh  field 
Calls  you :  ye  lose  the  prime,  to  mark  how  spring 
The  tended  plants,  how  blows  the  Citron  grove  ; 
What  drops  the  Myrrh,  and  what  the  balmy  Reed ; 
How  Nature  paints  her  colours;  how  the  bee 
Sits  on  the  bloom,  extracting  liquid  sweets." 

How  delightful  is  this  fragrance  !  It  is  distributed  in  the 
nicest  proportion  ;  neither  so  strong  as  to  oppress  the  organs, 
nor  so  faint  as  to  elude  them.  We  are  soon  cloyed  at  a 
sumptuous  banquet ;  but  this  pleasure  never  loses  its  poig- 
nancy, never  palls  the  appetite.  Here  luxury  itself  is  inno- 
cence; or  rather,  in  this  case,  indulgence  is  incapable  of  ex- 


THE    BEAUTIES    OP    APRIL    AND    MAY.  57 

cess.     This  balmy  entertainment  not  only  regales  the  sense, 

but  cheers  the  very  soul ;  and,  instead  of  clogging,  elates  it3 

powers. 

"  The  soft  green  grass  is  growing 
O'er  meadow  and  o'er  dale  ; 
The  silv'ry  f()unts  are  flowing 

Upon  the  verdant  vale  : 
The  pale  Snow-drop  is  springing 

To  greet  the  glowing  sun  ; 
The  Primrose  sweet  is  flinging 

Perfume  the  fieMs  along  ; 
The  trees  are  in  their  blossom. 

The  birds  are  in  their  song; 
As  Spring  upon  the  bosom 

Of  Nature's  borne  along. 

"So  the  dawn  of  human  life 

Doth  green  and  verdant  spring: 

It  doth  little  ween  the  strife — 

Like  the  Snow-drop  it  is  fair, 
And  like  the  Primrose  sweet. 

But  its  innocence  can't  scare 
The  blight  from  its  retreat." 

Our  subject  is  so  enchanting,  that  we  had  inadvertently 
wandered  from  the  path  we  first  entered.  We  now  retrace 
our  steps,  and  take  a  glance  at  surrounding  objects.  The 
fields  look  green  with  the  springing  gi'ass.  See  the  Daffodil 
how  it  spreads  itself  to  the  wind  !  The  leaves  of  Honey- 
suckles begin  to  expand,  the  Lilacs,  or  Syringas,  of  various 
hues,  unfold  their  buds.  The  Almond  exhibits  its  rosy  clus- 
ters, and  the  Coi'chorus  its  golden  balls.  Many  of  the  low- 
lier plants  exhibit  their  yellow  and  pui-ple  colours,  and  the 
buds  of  Lilies,  and  other  Perennial  plants,  prepare  to  show 
themselves.  If  we  turn  our  attention  to  the  oi'chard,  we 
behold  the  Apricots,  Nectarines,  and  Peaches,  lead  the  way 
in  blossoming,  which  are  followed  by  the  Cherry  and  the  Plum. 
These  form  a  most  agreeable  spectacle,  as  well  on  account 
of  their  beauty  as  of  the  promise  they  give  of  future  bene- 
fits. It  is,  however,  an  anxious  time  for  the  possessor,  as 
the  fairest  prospect  of  a  plentiful  increase  is  often  blighted 


58  THE  BEAUTIES  OF  APRIL  AND  MAY. 

Shakspeare  draws  a  pathetic  comparison  from  this  circum- 
Btance,  of  the  delusive  nature  of  human  expectations  : 

"This  is  the  state  of  man:  to-day  he  puts  forth 
The  tender  leaves  of  hope  ;  to-morrow  blossoms, 
And  bears  his  blushing  honours  thick  upon  him ; 
The  third  day  comes  a  frost,  a  kiUing  frost, 
And  nips  his  root." 

But  now  we  return  to  the  garden.  Before  we  have  time 
to  explore  Nature's  treasures,  many  disappear ;  among  these 
are  the  humble  Daisy,  which  shrinks  from  the  intense  heat, 
and  the  several  varieties  of  Primulas,  or  early  spring  flowers. 
The  various  grades  of  Polyanthus  deserve  a  close  inspection ; 
these,  for  a  while,  exhibit  their  sjaarkling  beauties,  but,  alas  ! 
Boon  disappear.  Scarcely  have  we  sustained  this  loss,  but 
in  comes  the  Auracula,  and  more  than  retrieves  it.  Arrayed 
she  comes  in  a  splendid  variety  of  amiable  forms,  with  an 
eye  of  crystal,  and  garments  of  the  most  glossy  satin.  A 
very  distinguished  procession  this  !  the  favourite  care  of  the 
florist ;  but  these  also  soon  disappear.  Who  could  forbear 
grieving  at  their  departure,  did  not  the  various  sorts  of  bulb- 
ous flowers  burst  their  bands  asunder,  or  rather  expand  so 
as  to  exhibit  their  fragrance  and  beauty. 

"Fair-handed  Spring 
Throws  out  the  Snow-drop  and  the  Crocus  first. 
The  Daisy,  Primrose,  Violet  darkly  blue. 
And  Polyanthus  with  unnumbered  dyes. 
Then  comes  the  Auracula,  enriched  with  shining  meal, 
O'er  all  their  velvet  leaves." 

Wliile  we  reluctantly  dispense  with  the  sweet  perfumes 
of  the  Hyacinth  and  Narcissus,  we  behold  the  Tulips  begin 
to  raise  themselves  on  their  fine  wands  or  stately  stalks.  They 
flush  the  parterre  with  one  of  the  gayest  dresses  that  bloom- 
ing Nature  wears.  Here  one  may  behold  the  innocent  wan- 
tonness of  beauty.  Here  she  indulges  a  thousand  freaks,  and 
sports  herself  in  the  most  charming  diversity  of  colours.  In 
&  grove  of  Tulips,  or  a  bed  of  Pinks,  one  perceives  a  differ- 


THE    BEAUTIES    OF    APRIL    AND    MAY.  50 

ence  in  almost  every  individual.  Scarcely  any  two  are  turned 
and  tinted  exactly  alike.  What  colours,  what  colours  are 
here  !  these  so  nobly  bold,  and  those  so  delicately  languid ! 
What  a  glow  is  enkindled  in  some  !  what  a  gloss  shines 
upon  others  !  With  what  a  masterly  skill  is  every  one  of  the 
varying  tints  disposed !  Here  they  seem  to  be  thrown  on  with 
an  easy  dash  of  security  and  freedom ;  there  they  are  adjusted 
by  the  nicest  touches  of  art  and  accuracy.  Those  colours 
which  form  the  ground  are  always  so  judiciously  chosen,  as 
to  heighten  the  lustre  of  the  superadded  figui'es ;  while  the 
verdure  of  the  impalement,  or  shadings  of  the  foliage,  im- 
part new  liveliness  to  the  whole.  Fine,  inimitably  fine,  is 
the  texture  of  the  web  on  which  these  shining  treasures  are 
displayed.  What  are  the  labours  of  the  Pei'siau  looms ; 
what  all  the  gay  attire  which  the  shuttle  or  the  needle  can 
furnish,  compared  with  Nature's  works  1  One  cannot  for- 
bear reflection  in  this  place,  on  the  too  prevailing  humour  of 
being  fond  and  ostentatious  of  dress.  What  an  abject  and 
mistaken  ambition  is  this  !  How  unworthy  the  dignity  of 
man,  and  the  wisdom  of  rational  beings  !  Especially  since 
these  little  productions  of  the  earth  have  indisputably  the 
pre-eminence  in  such  outward  embellishments. 

"Bright  Tulips,  we  do  Know, 
Ye  had  your  coming  hilher, 
And  fading  time  doth  show, 
That  ye  must  quickly  wither. 

"  Your  sisterhood  may  stay, 
And  smile  here  for  an  hour, 
But  ye  must  quickly  die  away. 
E'en  as  the  meanest  flower. 

"  Come,  virgins,  then,  and  see 

Your   frailties,  and  bemoan  ye; 
For  lost  like  these — 'twill  be 
As  time  had  never  known  ye." 

But  let  US  not  forget  the  fragrant,  the  very  fragrant  Wall 
and  Gilyflovvers;  some  of  these  regale  us  with  their  per- 


60  THE    BEAUTIES    OF   APRIL    AND    MAY. 

fumes  through  various  vicissitudes  and  alteiTiations  of  the 
season,  while  others  make  a  transient  visit  only. 

"I  love  thee,  lone  and  pensive  flower, 

Because  thou  dost  not  flaunt  thy  bloom 
In  pleasure's  gay  and  garnish'd  bower, 

Or  luxury's  proud  banquet  room  ; 
But  on  the  silent,  mouldering  wall 

Thy  clinging  leaves  a  fragrance  shed. 
Or  give  to  tlie  deserted  hall, 

A  relic  of  its  glories  fled. 

"  These  wreaths,  in  vivid  freshness  bright, 

Methinks  the  fluttering  herd  portray. 
Who  bask  on  fortune's  golden  light. 

And  wanton  in  her  joyous  way  ; 
But  thou  art  like  that  gentle  love. 

Which  blooms  when  friends  and  fame  have  pass'd, 
Towers  the  dark  wreck  of  hope  above, 

And  smiles  through  ruin  to  the  last." 

In  favoured  climates  arises  the  Anemone,  encircled  at 
the  bottom  with  a  spreading  robe,  and  rounded  at  the  top 
into  a  beautiful  dome.  In  its  loosely-flowing  mantle,  you 
may  observe  a  noble  negligence ;  in  its  gently-bending  tufts, 
the  nicest  symmetry.  This  may  be  termed  the  fine  gentle- 
man of  the  garden,  because  it  seems  to  possess  the  means  of 
uniting  simplicity  and  refinement,  of  reconciling  art  and  ease. 
The  same  month  has  the  merit  of  producing  the  Ranunculus. 
All  bold  and  graceful,  it  expands  the  riches  of  its  foliage,  and 
acquires  by  degrees  the  lovliest  enamel  in  the  world.  As 
persons  of  intrinsic  worth  disdain  the  superficial  arts  of  recom- 
mendation practised  by  fops,  so  this  lordly  flower  scorns  to 
bon'ow  any  of  its  excellencies  from  powders  and  essences. 
It  needs  no  such  attractions  to  render  it  the  darlirg  of  the 
cuiious,  being  sufiiciently  engaging  from  the  elegance  of  its 
figure,  the  radiant  variety  of  its  tinges,  and  a  certain  superior 
dignity  of  aspect. 

JUNE. 
"Now  have  young  April,  and  the  blue-eyed  May, 
Vanished  awhile,  and  lo!   the  glorious  June 
(While  Nature  ripens  in  his  burning  noon) 
Comes  like  a  young  inheritor." 


THE    BEAUTIES    OF    ArRfL    AND    MAY.  61 

I  had  intended  to  confine  ouv  meditations  to  the  beauties 
of  April  and  May,  but  Nature  seems  to  impi'ove  in  her  opera- 
tions. Her  latest  strokes  are  the  most  masterly.  To  crown 
the  collection,  she  introduces  the  Carnation,  which  captivates 
our  eyes  with  a  noble  spread  of  graces,  and  charms  another 
sense  with  a  profusion  of  exquisite  odours.  This  single  flower 
has  centred  in  itself  the  perfection  of  all  the  preceding.  The 
moment  it  appears,  it  so  commands  our  attention,  that  we 
scarcely  regret  the  absence  of  the  rest. 

"Maternal  Flora,  with  benisnant  hand. 
Her  flowers  profusely  scatters  o'er  the  land  : 
These  deck  the  valleys  with  unnumbered  hues, 
And  tar  around  their  pregnant  sweets  dilTuse, 
The  broad  Carnations,  yay  and  spotted  Pinks, 
Are  showered  profuse  along  the  rivers'  brinks." 

The  field  we  have  entered  is  so  extensive  and  so  enchant- 
ing, that  we  cannot  extricate  ourselves  without  taking  a  cur- 
sory glance  at  the  airs  and  habits,  the  attitude  and  lineaments, 
of  each  distinct  class.  See  the  Pasonia  of  China,  splendid  and 
beautifully  grand  !  View  the  charming  Rose,  delicate  and 
languishingly  fair  I  and  while  you  inhale  its  balmy  sweetness, 
you  will  be  constrained  to  admire  it,  notwithstanding  its  thorny 
appendages. 

"Rose!  thou  art  the  sweetest  flower 
That  ever  drank  the  amber  shower  ; 
Rose!  thou  art  the  fondest  child 
Of  dimpled  Spring!   tlie  wood-nymph  wild  ! 
Resplendant  Rose  !  the  flower  of  flowers, 
Whose  breath  perfumes  Olympus'  bowers; 
Whose  virgin  blush,  of  chasten'd  dye, 
Enchants  so  much  our  mental  eye." 

Bvdhold  all  the  j^omp  and  glory  of  the  j^arterre,  where  Na- 
ture's paint  and  perfumes  do  wonders.  Some  rear  their  heads 
as  with  a  majestic  meln,  and  overlook,  like  sovereigns  or  no- 
bles, the  whole  pat  terre.  Others  seem  more  modest  in  their 
aims,  and  advance  only  to  the  middle  stations  ;  a  genius  turned 
for  heraldry  might  term  them  the  gentry  of  the  border;  while 


62  THE    BEAUTIES    OF    APRIL    AND    MAY. 

Others,  free  from  all  aspiring  airs,  creep  unambitiously  on  the 
ground,  and.  look  like  the  commonality  of  the  kind.  Some 
are  intersected  with  elegant  stripes,  or  studded  with  radiant 
spots.  Some  affectto  be  genteelly  powdered, orneatlyfringed; 
while  others  are  plain  in  their  aspect,  unaffected  in  their  dress, 
and  content  to  please  with  a  naked  simplicity.  Some  assume 
the  monarch's  purple  ;  some  look  most  becoming  in  the  vir- 
gin's white  ;  but  black,  doleful  black,  has  no  admittance  into 
the  wardrobe  of  Spring.  The  weeds  of  mourning  would  be  a 
manifest  indecorum,  when  Nature  holds  a  universal  festival. 
She  would  now  inspire  none  but  delightful  ideas,  and  there- 
fore always  makes  her  appearance  in  some  amiable  suit.  Here 
stands  a  warrior  clad  with  crimson  ;  there  sits  a  magistrate 
robed  in  scarlet ;  and  yonder  struts  a  pjretty  fellow,  that  seems 
to  have  dipped  his  plumes  in  the  rainb<jw,  and  glitters  in  all 
the  gay  colours  of  that  resplendent  arch.  Some  rise  into  a 
curious  cut,  or  fall  into  a  set  of  beautiful  bells.  Others  spread 
themselves  in  a  swelling  tuft,  or  crowd  into  a  delicious  cluster. 
In  some  the  predominant  stain  softens  by  the  gentlest  dimi- 
nutions, till  it  has  even  stolen  away  from  itself.  The  eye  is 
amused  at  the  agreeable  delusion,  and  we  wonder  to  find 
ourselves  insensibly  decoyed  into  quite  a  different  lustre.  In 
others  one  would  think  the  fine  tinges  were  emulous  of  pre- 
eminence ;  disdaining  to  mingle,  they  confront  one  another 
with  the  resolution  of  rivals,  determined  to  dispute  the  piize 
of  beauty ;  while  each  is  improved,  by  the  opposition,  into  the 
highest  vivacity  of  complexion. 

"  Mrs.  Pccony  came  in  quite  late  in  a  heat, 
With  tiie  Ice-plant,  dew-spangled  from  forehead  to  feet; 
Lobelia,  attired  like  a  queen  in  her  pride, 
And  Dahlias,  with  trimmings  new  furbish'd  and  dyed, 
And  the  Blue-bells,  and  Hare-bells  in  simple  array, 
With  all  their  Scotch  cousins  from  highland  and  brae. 
Ragged  Ladies  and  Marigolds  clustered  together, 
And  gossip'd  of  scandal,  the  news,  and  the  weather  ; 
What  dresbes  were  worn  at  the  wedding  so  fine 
Of  sharp  Mrs.  Thistle  and  sweet  Columbine." 


63 


OBSERVATIONS  ON  THE  CULTIVATION 


BULBOUS  AND  TUBEROUS-ROOTED   PLANTS. 


These  plants  exhibit  a  striking  variety  of  the  beauties  of 
Nature.  It  would  seem  as  if  every  change  she  is  capable 
of  forming,  was  included  in  the  radiant  colours  of  the  Tulip. 
Never  was  a  cup  either  painted  or  enamelled  with  such  a 
profusion  of  tints.  Its  stripes  are  so  glowing,  its  contrasts 
so  strong,  and  the  arrangement  of  them  both  so  elegant  and 
artful,  that  it  may,  with  propriety,  be  denominated  the  reign- 
ing beauty  of  the  garden  in  its  season.  The  Hyacinth  ia 
also  an  estimable  flower  for  its  bloommg  complexion,  as  well 
as  for  its  most  agreeable  perfume  and  variety. 

"  The  Hyacinth,  purple,  white,  and  blue, 
Which  tlung  from  its  bells  a  sweet  peel  anew. 
Of  music  so  delicate,  soft,  intense, 
It  was  felt  like  an  odour  within  the  sense." 

The  Double  Dahlia,  in  its  numerous  varieties,  is  incon- 
ceivably splendid.  It  was  only  at  the  latter  end  of  the 
eighteenth  century  that  the  first  of  these,  which  were  single, 
were  introduced  into  Europe  from  Mexico. 

Double  Dahlias  of  three  colours  were  first  known  in  the 
year  1802,  and  since  that  time  the  varieties  have  increased 
so  rapidly,  that  those  which  a  few  years  ago  were  considered 
beautiful,  are  now  thrown  away  to  give  place  to  the  more 
splendid  sorts.  I  have  good  authority  for  stating,  that  upward 
of  twenty  thousand  seedlings  are  raised  yearly  in  England, 
only  a  few- of  which  are  introduced  into  the  collections  of 
amateurs,  to  take  the  place  of  such  old  sorts  as  may  from 
time  to  time  be  rejected.  This  is  done,  in  order  that  none 
but  the  very  choicest  may  be  retained  in  such  collections. 


64        BULBOUS  AND  TUBEUOUS-ROOTED  PLANTS. 

In  some  gardens  in  Holland  they  cidtivate,  by  dlstict  names, 
about  eleven  hundred  varieties  of  Tulips,  thirteen  hundred 
of  Hyacinths,  and  six  hundred  of  Ranunculuses  and  Ane- 
mones, some  of  w^hich  are  sold  as  high  as  sixty  dollars  the 
single  root.  It  is  stated  in  the  travels  of  Mr.  Dutens,  of  his 
having  known  ten  thousand  florins,  equal  to  $4,000,  refused 
for  a  single  Hyacinth ;  and  Dodsley  says,  in  his  Annual  Regis- 
ter for  1765,  that  the  Dutch  of  all  ranks,  from  the  highest 
to  the  lowest,  during  the  years  from  1634  to  1637  inclusive, 
neglected  their  business  to  engage  in  the  Tulip  trade.  Ac- 
cordingly in  those  days,  the  Viceroy  was  sold  for  £250,  the 
Admiral  Lief  keens  for  d£440,  and  the  Semper  Augustus  at  from 
£500  to  c;£l,000  each  ;  and  a  collection  of  Tulips  was  sold  by 
the  executors  of  one  Wouter  Broekholsmentser  for  =£9,000. 
It  is  stated  that  in  one  city  in  Holland,  in  the  space  of  three 
years,  they  had  traded  for  a  million  sterling  in  Tulips. 

As  a  full  catalogue  of  all  the  varieties  of  bulbous  and  tube- 
rous-rooted plants  would  occupy  a  number  of  pages,  without 
affording  much  general  interest,  I  shall  content  myself  by  de- 
voting a  short  paragraph  in  describing  some  of  each  particular 
species,  which  will  be  accompanied  with  directions  for  their 
culture,  in  a  brief,  and,  at  the  same  time,  explicit  manner. 

It  may  here  be  necessary  to  define  the  difference  between 
bulbous  and  tuberous  roots.  Those  designated  bulbous  have 
skins  similar  to  Onions,  or  the  Allium  tribe ;  and  tuberous  roots 
imply  all  such  as  produce  tubers  something  similar  to  Potatoes. 

The  soil  for  bulbous  and  tuberous  roots  in  general  should 
be  light,  and  yet  capable  of  retaining  moisture  ;  not  such  as 
is  liable  to  become  bound  up  by  heat,  or  that,  in  consequence 
of  too  large  a  portion  of  sand,  is  likely  to  become  excessively 
hot  in  summer ;  but  a  medium  earth  between  the  two  ex- 
ti'emes.  As  many  city  gardens  do  not  contain  a  natural  soil 
of  any  depth,  a  suitable  compost  should  be  provided  in  such 
cases,  which  may  consist  of  equal  parts  of  sand,  loam,  rotten 
manure,  mould,  &c. 

Wlien  ready,  the  beds  may  be  laid  out,  from  three  to  four 


BULBOUS  AND  TUBEROUS-ROOTED  PLANTS.       65 

feet  wide,  and  they  should  be  raised  two  or  three  inches 
above  the  level  of  the  walks,  which  will  give  an  opportunity 
for  all  superfluous  moisture  to  run  off.  Let  the  beds  thus 
foiTned  be  pulverized  to  the  depth  of  fifteen  or  eighteen 
inches  ;  and  at  the  time  of  planting,  let  a  small  quantity  of 
beach  sand  be  strewed  in  the  apertures  or  trenches  prepared 
for  the  roots  to  grow  in,  both  before  and  after  placing  them 
therein,  which  will  prove  beneficial. 

A  southern  exposure,  dry  and  airy,  and  sheltered  from 
the  northwest  winds,  is  preferable  for  most  bulbs.  But 
Anemones  and  Ranunculuses  should  be  in  some  measure 
shelteied  from  the  intense  heat  of  noon. 

Beds  of  hardy  bulbous  and  tuberous  roots  should  be  cov- 
ered on  the  approach  of  winter  with  litter,  leaves,  straw,  or 
such  earth  as  is  formed  by  the  decay  of  leaves,  to  the  depth 
of  two  or  three  inches,  as  it  prevents  any  ill  effects  which  a 
severe  season  may  have  on  the  roots ;  but  it  should  be  care- 
fully raked  off  in  the  spring. 

Bulbous  roots  in  general  should  be  taken  up  in  about  a 
month  or  six  weeks  after  the  bloom  is  exhausted,  or  when 
the  foliage  is  about  half  decayed.  If  fine  warm  weather,  the 
bulbs  may  be  dried  on  the  beds  they  grow  on,  by  placing  them 
in  separate  rows,  being  careful  not  to  mix  the  several  vaiieties. 
To  prevent  such  an  accident,  labels  may  be  affixed  to,  or 
placed  in  the  ground  opposite  each  bulb.  They  will  keep 
much  better  when  dried  gradually  ;  to  this  end,  a  little  dry 
eartli  may  be  shaken  over  them,  to  screen  them  from  the 
heat  of  the  sun.  If  it  should  rain  before  they  get  dry,  take 
them  in,  or  cover  them  with  boards ;  when  dry,  clear  them 
of  the  fibres  and  stems,  and  then  put  them  away  in  dry  sand  , 
or  if  wrapped  in  paper,  they  may  be  kept  in  boxes  or  draw 
ers  until  the  season  of  planting  returns. 

The  tender  tuberous  roots,  such  as  Dahlias,  and  the  like, 
will  have  to  be  taken  up  before  the  cold  becomes  severe. 
As  the  Dahlia  exhibits  its  flowers  in  all  their  splendour  until 
nipped  by  the  frost,  the  roots  ought,  in  the  event  of  a  very 

6* 


66       BULBOUS  AND  TUBEROUS-ROOTED  PLANTS. 

sudden  attack,  to  be  secnr£>d  from  its  blighting-  effects.  They 
are  not  apt  to  keep  well  if  taken  up  before  they  are  ripened ; 
the  tops  should  therefore  be  cut  down  as  soon  as  they  have 
done  flowering,  and  the  gi'ound  covered  around  the  roots 
with  dung  or  litter ;  this  will  enable  them  to  ripen  without 
being  injured  by  frost;  and  in  about  a  week  after  being  cut 
down,  or  on  the  appearance  of  severe  weather,  they  should 
be  dug  up  and  packed  in  dry  sand,  and  then  stowed  away  in 
a  dvj  place  out  of  the  reach  of  frost.  The  temperature  suited 
to  keep  green-house  plants  will  preserve  them  in  good  order. 
Some  people  comj^lain  of  the  difficidty  of  keeping  Dahlia 
roots  through  the  winter.  I  am  of  opinion  that  they  are 
often  killed  from  being  taken  up  before  they  are  ripe,  and 
then  put  in  a  confined,  damp  place ;  or  ai'e  by  some,  per- 
haps, subjected  to  the  other  extreme,  and  dried  to  a  husk.  I 
keep  mine  on  shelves  in  the  green-house,  and  seldom  lose  one 
in  a  hundred.  If  it  be  an  object  with  the  cidtivator  to  have 
the  names  perpetuated  from  year  to  year,  each  plant  should 
have  a  small  label  affixed  to  the  old  stalk,  by  means  of  small 
brass  or  copper  wire,  as  twine  is  very  apt  to  get  rotten. 

Cape  bulbs,  and  such  tuberous  loots  as  are  cultivated  in 
pots,  on  account  of  their  tenderness,  should  be  kept  dry  after 
the  foliage  is  decayed,  until  within  about  a  month  of  their 
period  of  re-germinating,  at  which  time  they  should,  after 
having  been  deprived  of  their  surplus  offsets,  be  re-potted 
in  good  fresh  earth. 

There  are  some  descriptions  of  bulbous  and  tuberous  roots 
that  need  not  be  taken  up  oftener  than  once  in  two  or  three 
years,  and  then  only  to  deprive  them  of  their  young  offsets, 
and  to  manure  the  ground.  These  will  be  described  here- 
after under  their  different  heads. 

In  the  articles  which  follow,  I  have  named  the  preferable 
season  for  planting  the  various  kinds  of  bulbous  and  tuberous 
roots  ;  but  as  some  bulbs  will  keep  in  good  condition  several 
months,  there  can  be  no  objection  to  retaining  such  out  of  the 
ground,  to  suit  any  jiarticular  purpose  or  convenience. 


67 


DIRECTIONS  FOR  THE  CULTIVATION 


BULBOUS  AND  TUBEROUS-ROOTED  PLANTS. 


AMARYLLIS. 

Op  this  genus  of  flowering  bulbs  there  ai'e  about  eighty 
species,  and  upward  of  one  hundred  varieties;  they  are  natives 
of  South  America,  and  in  Europe  are  generally  kept  in  the 
hot-house ;  some  of  the  varieties  are  hybrids,  produced  by 
cultivation  ;  these  succeed  very  well  in  the  green-house,  and 
in  this  country  we  frequently  have  very  perfect  flowers  in 
the  borders.     A  few  of  the  choicest  varieties  are  as  follows : 

Amaryllis  Aidica,  or  Crowned  Amaryllis,  is  one  of  the  most 
beautiful ;  it  produces  four  flowers,  about  seven  inches  in 
diameter,  on  an  erect  stem,  about  two  feet  and  a  half  high, 
with  six  petals  of  gi-een,  crimson,  and  fine  transparent  red 
colours. 

A.  Ballota  produces  three  or  four  rich  scarlet  flowers  on 
the  stem,  each  about  five  inches  in  diameter ;  there  are  two 
or  three  varieties  of  this  species,  all  beautiful. 

A.  Johnsoniensis.  The  stem  of  this  variety  rises  about  two 
feet,  and  exhibits  four  beautiful  scarlet  flowers,  with  a  white 
streak  in  the  centre  of  each  petal,  each  flower  about  six 
inches  diameter.     It  sometimes  produces  two  stems. 

A.  Longifolia,  or  Crinnm  Capense,  is  perfectly  hardy ;  it 
flowers  in  large  umbels  of  a  pink  colour,  inclining  to  white, 
and  is  a  good  garden  variety. 

AmayyliisJ'oi-mosissinia,  or  Jacobean  Lily,  pi'oduces  a  flo'wer 
of  great  beauty ;  although  a  low-priced  plant,  it  throws  out 
gi'acefully  its  glittering  crimson-coloured  petals,  which  have 
a  brilliancy  almost  too  intense  for  the  eye  to  rest  upon. 

The  A.  Lutea  produces  its  bright  yellow  flowers  in  October 


68  ANEMONES    AND    RANUNCULUSES. 

in  the  open  air ;  but  the  bulb  requires  a  little  protection  in 
winter,  or  it  may  perish. 

The  most  suitable  soil  for  the  Amaryllis  is  a  clean  new  earth, 
taken  from  under  fresh  grass  sods,  mixed  with  sand  and  leaf 
mould ;  the  latter  ingredient  should  form  about  a  third  of 
the  whole,  and  the  sand  about  a  sixth.  Some  of  the  varieties 
may  be  planted  in  pots  during  the  month  of  April,  and  others 
will  do  very  well  in  the  open  ground,  if  planted  early  in  May, 
in  a  sunny  situation.  The  bulb  should  not  be  set  more  than 
half  its  dejjth  in  the  ground  ;  as,  if  j^lanted  too  deep,  it  will 
not  bloom  ;  the  plant  deriving  its  nourishment  only  from  the 
fibres.  When  the  bulljs  have  done  flowering,  such  as  are  in 
pots  should  be  watered  very  sparingly,  so  that  they  may  be 
perfectly  ripened,  which  will  cause  them  to  shoot  stronger 
in  the  ensuing  season,  and  those  in  the  ground  should  be 
taken  up,  and  preserved  in  sand  or  paper. 


ANEMONE  AND  RANUNCULUS. 

These  are  medium,  or  half-hardy  roots,  producing  beau- 
tiful little  flowers  of  various  hues,  and  are  highly  deserving 
of  cultivation.  The  bulbs  should  be  planted  in  a  fresh,  well 
pulverized,  loamy  soil,  enriched  with  cow  dung.  If  planted 
in  the  garden,  the  beds  ought  not  to  be  raised  above  one  inch 
higher  than  the  alleys,  and  the  surface  should  be  level,  as  it 
is  necessary  for  the  prosperity  of  these  plants,  rather  to  retain 
than  to  throw  off"  moisture.  The  plants  will  generally  sur- 
vive our  winters  ;  but  it  is  always  safest  to  plant  them  in  such 
a  manner  that  a  temporary  frame  of  boards  can  be  placed 
over  them  when  the  weather  sets  in  severe  ;  and  if  they  are 
to  be  shaded  while  in  flower,  the  posts  intended  for  the 
awning  may  be  fixed  in  the  ground  at  the  same  time ;  these 
■\\nll  serve  to  nail  the  boards  to,  and  thus  answer  two  purposes. 

Anemones  and  Ranunculuses  may  be  planted  during  Octo- 
ber or  November,  in  drills  two  inches  deep,  and  six  inches 


CROCUS    AND    CROWN    IMPERIAL.  69 

apart ;  the  roots  should  be  placed  with  claws  downward,  about 
four  inches  distant  from  each  other,  and  covered  up,  leavino- 
the  bed  quite  level.  The  awning-  need  not  be  erected  over 
the  beds  until  they  come  into  bud,  which  will  be  early  in 
May ;  the  extreme  heat  of  the  American  climate  is,  however, 
unfavourable  to  the  perfect  development  of  their  beautiful 
blossoms  in  ordinary  seasons,  even  when  shaded. 


CROCUS. 

These  are  hardy  little  bulbs,  said  to  be  natives  of  Swit- 
zerland. There  are  in  all  about  fifty  varieties  of  this  humble, 
yet  beautiful  plant,  embracing  a  great  variety  of  hues  and 
complexions,  and  their  hardiness,  and  earliness  of  flower, 
offer  a  strong  motive  for  their  cultivation.  The  bulbs  may 
be  planted  in  October  or  November,  in  rows  about  six  inches 
from  the  edgings ;  if  in  beds,  they  may  be  placed  in  ranks 
of  distinct  colours,  about  four  inches  apart,  and  from  one  to 
two  deep,  which  will  afford  to  their  admirers  considerable 
amusement  and  gratification,  and  that  at  a  very  early  season. 
They  are  generally  in  full  perfection  early  in  April, 


CROWN  IMPERIAL. 

This  is  a  species  of  the  genus  Frttillaria,  of  which  there 
are  about  twenty  species  and  varieties,  chiefly  natives  of 
Persia.  These  squamose  bulbs  produce  tall,  luxuriant  stems, 
embellished  with  green  glossy  foliage,  and  flowers  of  various 
hues  ;  but  there  are  only  a  few  of  the  most  curious  cultivated, 
perhaps  on  account  of  their  odour,  which  to  some  persons 
is  disagreeable.  They  are,  however,  very  hardy,  and  pro- 
duce singular  and  showy  flowers  in  April  and  May.  suited 
to  make  variety  in  the  flower  borders,  in  which  they  may  be 
planted  in  August  and  September,  from  three  to  four  inches 
deep ;  they  need  not  be  taken  up  every  year  as  other  bulbs, 


70  COLCHICUM,  CYCLAMEN,  AND  DOUBLE  DAHLIA. 

and  when  they  are,  which  may  be  about  every  third  year,  they 
ought  not  to  be  retained  too  long  out  of  the  ground  before 
they  are  replanted. 


COLCHICUM. 

This  curious  little  bulb,  being  planted  in  the  month  of 
June,  about  two  inches  deep,  produces  its  flowers  in  Octo- 
ber ;  it  then  dies,  without  leaving  any  external  appearance 
of  seed ;  they,  however,  lie  buried  in  the  bulb  all  the  winter, 
and  in  the  spring  produce  a  stalk  with  seed,  which  get  ripe  by 
the  first  of  June,  just  in  time  to  plant  for  flowering  in  the  ensu- 
ing autumn.     How  wonderful  are  the  provisions  of  Nature  ! 


CYCLAMEN. 

There  are  several  species  of  the  Persian  Cyclamen  which 
are  worthy  of  cultivation  in  pots ;  the  varieties  Coum  and 
Persicum  will  bloom  in  a  green-house,  or  warm  room,  from 
January  to  April,  if  planted  in  good  light  compost  early  in 
September.  The  foliage  of  these  plants  is  of  a  dark  green 
velvet  colour ;  and  the  flowers  of  the  variety  Coum  are  of  a 
dark  crimson  colour ;  those  of  the  variety  Persicum  are  of  a 
delicate  French  white,  tipped  with  pink,  and  their  fragrance 
is  similar  to  that  of  the  wild  rose. 


DOUBLE  DAHLIA. 

This  may  with  propriety  be  denominated  one  of  the  most 
important  perennial  tuberous-rooted  plants  that  can  be  intro- 
duced into  a  garden,  and  from  the  circumstance  of  Its  having 
become  so  fashionable  of  late  years,  I  have  felt  anxious  to 
furnish  in  this  work  a  catalogue  of  all  the  choicest  varieties 
attainable ;  I  therefore  applied  for  this  purpose  to  Mr.  G.  C. 
Thorburn,  who,  from  a  regular  correspondence  with  connois- 


DOUBLE    DAHLIA.  72 

seurs,  both  in  England  and  America,  becomes  acquainted 
with  all  the  most  beautiful  and  rare  varieties  ;  and  he  has 
kindly  furnished  a  list  and  description  of  about  one  hundred, 
including  the  choicest  seedlings  of  the  last  two  years,  which 
will  be  cultivated  foi  the  first  time  in  America,  in  his  garden 
at  Astoria,  next  year;  plants  fiom  which  will  be  for  sale  at 
Xo.  15,  John  street.  To  these  I  have  added  about  one  hun- 
dred and  twenty  varieties,  most  of  which  I  have  had  under 
cultivation  in  my  own  garden,  and  which  may  be  justly 
denominated  pre-eminent. 

In  making  this  selection,  several  superb  varieties  are 
omitted,  not  because  they  are  undervalued,  but  for  the  sake 
of  brevity,  which  in  a  work  of  this  kind  must  be  consulted. 
Those  maiked  thus  t  are  native  American  varieties.  Those 
marked  thus  *  obtained  the  greatest  number  of  premiums 
at  the  various  Floricultural  and  Horticultural  exhibitions  in 
Great  Britain,  as  well  as  in  our  own  country.  There  are, 
perhaps,  fifty  more  in  this  Catalogue  not  far  beneath  them[ 
but  none  are  marked  except  those  which,  from  having 
been  tested  in  this  climate,  can  with  confidence  be  recom°- 
mended  as  being  free  and  perfect  bloomers.  The  choicest 
seedlings  of  last  year  which  have  been  purchased  in  England 
at  from  fifteen  shillings  to  five  pounds  sterling  each,  are 
marked  thus  §.  It  may  be  necessary  to  observe,  that  many 
of  our  choice  old  vaiieties,  as  well  as  several  of  the  new 
ones  hereinafter  described,  have  not  been  offered  in  comjie- 
tition  at  public  exhibitions  ;  these  are,  therefore,  not  to  be 
undervalued  for  want  of  the  star  or  asterisk,  and  it  is  pre- 
sumed that  the  brief  description  given  of  the  different  shades 
will  be  sufficient  to  govern  amateurs  in  their  choice. 

As  much  depends  on  the  climate,  soil,  and  situation  in  which 
DahUas  are  cultivated ;  and  as  the  descriptions  which  follow 
have  been  given  by  various  persons,  in  different  parts  of  Eng- 
land, as  well  as  America,  whose  soils  and  situations  are  dif- 
ferent, the  height  of  these  plants  may  vary  a  foot  or  more  from 
our  estimate,  when  planted  in  one  uniform  soil  and  situation 


72 


CATALOGUE  OF  DOUBLE  DAHLIAS. 

♦  Denotes  American  Seedlings.  *  Free  Bloomers.  §  New  Varieties. 

Feet  high. 
§  Admirable  Baudain.  white,  tipped  with  red,  -  -  -  -  4  to  5 
Admirable,  Spary's,  bright  rose,  superb  flower,  -  -  -  -  4  to  5 
§  Admiral  !^topford,  Trrnffidd's,  extra  dark  flower,  cupped  petals,     4  to  5 

•Adventure,  Toivard's,  extra  fine  purple, 4  to  5 

Agamemnon,  WidnaU's,  rich  ruby  crimson,         -         -         -         -     5  to  6 

Alexander,  Miller^s,  bright  orange  buff, 5  to  6 

Alba  Purpurea,  Young  s,  white,  edged  with  purple,     -         -         -     5  to  6 
§Alba  Purpurea  Superba,  Bates's,  dark  purple,  edged  with  white,     5  to  6 
^America,  Drnnimtind's  fine  purple,  -         -         -         -         -4  to  5 

Andrew  Hofer,  Holmes's,  maroon,  splendid  flower,       -         -         -     4  to  5 
Antiope,  Cuse's  beautiful  lilac,  fine  shape,  -         -         -         -     4  to  5 

§.'\.rethusa.  Union'.s,  blush  white,  veined  with  pink,     -         -         -     3  to  4 
*Argo,  Widnall's,  bright  yellow,  beautiful  form,  -         -         -     5  to  6 

•Ariel,  Inwond's,  white,  edged  with  lilac,  -         -         -         -         -4  to  5 

§Array,  Waller's,  dark  crimson,  fine  flower,        -         -         -         -     3  to  4 

Attila,  Whale's,  shaded  rose  and  lilac,  fine  form,  -         -         -     4  to  5 

•Aurora.  Maule's,  white,  striped  with  crimson,  -         -         -     4  to  5 

•Bannard's  Rival,  supurb  dark  crimson,     -  -  -  -  -4  to  5 

§  Bachelor,  clear  red,  fine  form,  and  abundant  bloomer,         -         -     3  to  4 
•Beauty  of  England,  Girliiig's.  white,  margined  with  crimson,     -     3  to  4 
f  Beauty  of  Philadelphia.  Schmitz's.  yellow,  tip'd  with  rose,  good  shape,  4  to  5 
Beauty  of  the  I'lain,  Spary's,  while,  deeply  margined  with  purple,  4  to  5 
§  Beauty  of  Wakefield,  Barret's,   white,  edged  with   light   purple, 

fine  form,  good  habit,  and  constant,  -         -  -     3  to  4 

§  Bedford  Surprise,  Sheppard's.  rosy  crimson,  splendid  form,         -     3  to  4 
tBlack  Prince,  Kent's,  extra  dark  maroon,  -         -         -         -     3  to  4 

Blandina,  de'iicate  white,  fine  form,    -         -         -         -         -         -4  to  5 

Bloomsbury,  Lee's,  fine  vivid  scarlet,  large,  -         -         -         -     5  to  6 

Bloomsbury,  Puniplin's,  large  buff,  fine  form,      -         -         -         -     4  to  5 

^Bridal  Ring,  white  and  lavender,     -         -         •         -         -         -3  to  4 
§  Bride,  Fawcelt's,  blush,  veined  and  tipped  with  rose,         -         -     3  to  4 
Bridemaid,  Bruivn's,  white,  edged  with  purple,  -         -         -         -     3  to  4 

^British  Queen,  shaded  bronze,  fine  form,  -         -         -         -     3  to  4 

•Burnham  Hero,  Cfiurch's,  superb  deep  crimson,         -         -         -     3  to  4 
♦."alliope,  extra  fine  ruby  scarlet,        -         -  -  -  -  -5  to  6 

■^<.  aiididate,  Silverlock's,  plum  colour,  fine  form,         -         -         -     5  to  6 
Oaptain  Boldero,  blush,  tipped  with  purple,  -  -  -  -     4  to  5 

•Charles  Xli.,  Miller's,  plum  colour,  tipped  with  white,        -  -     4  to  5 

^Chancellor,  Whale's,  light  rosy  crimson,  large  flower,         -         -     .5  to  6 
Clara,  Seaman's,  extra  fine  white,       --         -         -         -         -4  to  5 

Cleopatra,  extra  fine  white,        -         -         -         -         -         -         -4  to  5 

■fColumbus,  Schmilz's,  fine  rosy  crimson,  cupped  petals,      -         -     4  to  5 
Compte  de  Paris,  fine  Canary  yellow,  -  -  -  -  -4  to  5 

Conqueror  of  PLurope,  Elphiustnne's,  blush,  shaded  with  pink,     -     4  to  5 
Conqueror  of  the  World,  Stein's,  yellow,  tipped  with  crimson,     -     4  to  5 


DAHLIA    CATALOGUE.  73 
♦  Denotes  American  See'Ilingg.                *  Free  Bloomeri.                J  New  Varieties 

Conqueror,  SpringalCs,  very  dark  maroon,          -         .         .  -  "^4  10^5 

Constancy,  Ktynts,  shaded  purple,  fine  flower,  -         -         .  -     6  to  6 

'Conservative,  Seaman  s,  bright  ruliy  scarlet,      -         -         .  -     5  to  6 

Conservative,  Low's,  liglit  purple,  fine  form,         .         .         .  -     5  to  6 

*Constantia,  Cox's,  white,  beautifully  shaded  with  pink,      -  -     5  to  6 
^Coronation,  Harrisoiis,  crimson,  beautifully  shaded  with  purple,     4  to  5 

Coronet,  superb  dark  puce,  large  flower,      -         .         .         .  -     4  to  5 

Countess  of  Liverpool,  beautiful  sliaped  scarlet,           -         .  -     6  to  8 

Uanecroft  liival,  Giriings,  bright  scarlet,  showy  flower,      -  -     5  to  6 

Diana,  Elpkinstone's,  beautiful  crimson  and  yellow,               -  -     4  to  5 

Dennissii,  fine  ruby  purple,                 .         .         .         .         .  -5  to  6 
•Dowager  Lady  Cooper,  delicate  peach  blossom,  cupped  petals,     -     4  to  5 

•Duchess  of  Richmond,  Foujkrs,  fine  orange  and  pink,      -  -     4  to  5 

Duke  of  Bedford,  Dennis's,  large  crimson  maroon,                .  -     5  to  6 

•Duke  of  Cornwall,  Laics,  ruby  rose,  high  centre,                .  -     4  to  5 

§Duke  of  Richmond,  Fo«>/e/-'s,  bronzy  pink,      -         -         .  -     4  to  5 
§Duke  of  Wellington  Smith's,  rich  scarlet  crimson,  high  centre,  cup'd,  5  to  6 

Eclipse,  Catleiigh's,  vermillion  rose,  superb  flower,     -         .  -   '  3  to  4 

Elizabeth,  TrenifielcVs,  white,  edged  with  purple,         .         .  -     4  to  5 

§Eleame  de  Be.iucour,  fine  rosy  blush,. 4  to  5 

^Emperor  of  China,  dark  purple,  superb  form,             .         .  -     5  to  6 

•Empress,  Dennis's   yellow,  edged  with  purple,          -         .  -     5  to  6 

•Etonia,  Kceler's,  extra  fine  salmon  colour,  cupped  petals,  -     4  to  5 

5  Euclid,  fFwnfs,  lilac  purple,  fine  form,              .         .     '   .  -     4  to  5 

Eva,  Foster's,  blush  white,  cupped  petals,            -         .         .  -     4  to  5 

•Exemplar,  Widnall's,  extra  fine  white,              .         .         .  -     5  to  6 

•Exquisite,  Guiing's,  superb  salmon  colour,  cupped  petals,  -     5  to  6 

Fanny  Keynes,  Keynes's,  beautifully  shaded  rose,        -         .  -     4  to  5 

Fire  Ball,  Squibbs's,  vivid  scarlet, 4  to  5 

Fanny,  Hieskell's,  white,  tipped  with  lilac,          -         .         .  -     4  to  5 

Fisherton  Champion.  Squibbs's,  fine  dark  crimson,       -         -  -     5  to  6 

Frances,  Jones's,  white,  margined  with  purple,             -         -  -     5  to  6 

•Formosa,  Girling's,  fine  buff,   tipped  with  rose,         -         .  -     5  to  6 

Gaine's  Primrose,  flue  delicate  primro.se,               -         .         .  -     4  to  5 

§Garrick,  dark  puce,  splendid  form, 4  to  5 

§Gem,  Smith's,  white,  tipped  with  bright  crimson,  good  form,  -     6  to  6 

§General  Houston,  Briell's,  light  purple,  good  habit,             .  -     5  to  6 

§Gipsy  Maid,  Girling's,  dark  crimson,  edged  with  purple,  -     4  to  5 

•Glory,  Douglass's,  extra  large  bright  scarlet,                .         .  -     5  to  6 

tGoIden  Fleece,  Neale's,  fine  golden  yellow,       -         .         .  -     4  to  5 

Glory  of  Plymouth,  Rendle's,  white,  tipped  with  purple,  -     4  to  5 

•Grace  Darling,  Dndd's,  rosy  salmon,  fine  formed  flower,  -     4  to  5 

•Grandis,  extra  large  ruby  purple,               -         .         .         .  -5  to  6 

Grand  Turk,  King's,  very  dark,  nearly  black,  and  good  form,  -     3  to  4 

•Grand  Tournament,  superb  blush,  fine  formed  flower,         -  -     5  to  6 

^Great  Western,  Bragg's,  light  purple,  mottled  with  crimson,  -     4  to  .5 

^Grenadier,  bright  orange,  showy  flower,              .          .          .  -     5  to  6 

Haidee,  Wildman's,    white  and  pink,  cupped  petals             -  -     4  to  ,5 

7 


74  DAHLIA    CATALOGUE. 

^  Denotes  American  Seedlings.  *  Free  Bloomers.  i  New  Varietiea. 

Feet  high. 

^Honourable  Miss  Abbot,  lilac.  cu))ped  petals  and  fine  habit,  -     4  to  5 

§Hope  Triumphant,  Wildman's,  line  formed  rose,      -         -  -     4  to  5 

Hope,  Nt'ville^s,  fine  rose  colour,        -         -         -         -         -  -4  to  5 

Indispensable,  Girling's.  violet  purple,  fine  form,         -          -  -     5  to  6 

Ingestive  Rival,  Tuylor^s,  bright  lilac,          -          -          -          -  -5  to  6 

§Jersey  Maid,  Langelier's,  blusii,  fine  form,       -         -         -  -     4  to  5 

Julia,  Clarke's,  sulphur,  tipped  with  crimson,               -         -  -     4  to  5 

•Juliet,  WidnalCs,  fine  cupped  rose,           -         -         .          -  -4  to  5 

Lady  Ann,  Hnpwuod's,  white,  laced  with  lilac,             -         -  -     3  to  4 

tLady  Ashburton,  Russell's,  pure  white,  tipped  with  carmine  lake,  5  to  6 

♦Lady  Ann  Murray.  Cafleiigh's,  white,  mottled  with  purple,  -     4  to  5 

Lady  Rathurst,  white,  laced  with  crimson.           -         -         -  -     4  to  5 

Lady  Catharine  Jermyn,  white,  mottled  with  crimson  scarlet,  -     4  to  5 

§Lady  Glentworth,  fFi/»u//\v,  shaded  claret,  fine  form         -  -     4  to  5 

4T.ady  Harland,  Jf Uriel's,  rosy  lilac,  large  showy  flower,     -  -     5  to  6 

Lady  Sonde's,  Cox's,  pale  yellow,  edged  with  rose,     -         -  -     4  to  5 
Le  Grande  Baudain,  Lmv's,  rosy  lilac,  centre  tinged  with  yellow,      5  to  6 

*Letitia.  Wells's,  yellow  and  brown,  fine  shape,           -         -  -     3  to  4 

Lewisham  Rival,  white,  elegantly  cupped,           -          -          -  -     4  to  5 

^Liberty,  Gi/-/2ng-'s,  fine  large  cupped  lilac,          -         -         -  -     4  to  5 

Lord  .Morpeth,  Evans's,  dark  puce,  finely  cupped,        -          -  -     4  to  5 

Lovely  Ann,  Dicke):<nii's,  blush  white,  tinted  with  lilac,       -  -     4  to  5 

*Lucina,  Spfiicer's,  fine  lilac,  edged  with  crimson,      -         -  -     4  to  5 
§Madame  de  Schaunenfeld,  Girling's,  bright  vermilion,  tipped  with 

white,  fine  shape  and  habit,    -         -         -         -         -  -4  to  5 

^Madeline  Braj',  Atirell's.  primrose,  tipped  with  lilac,          -  -     3  to  4 

*Maid  of  Bath.  Davis's,  white,  edsed  with  purple,       -         •  -     4  to  5 

Mary,  Ward's,  primrose  yellow,  l.irge  flower,     -         -         .  -     4  to  5 

tMary  Ann,  Schmilz's,  pure  white,  large  flower,  and  perfect,  -     4  to  5 

^Mary  Jane,  Edivard's,  white,  tipped  with  purple,      -          -  -     3  to  4 

Maria,  Wheeler's,  deep  rose,  superb  form,            -         -         -  -     4  to  5 

§  Marchioness  of  Aylesbury,  Whale's,  fine  white,  tipped  with  scarlet,  4  to  5 

♦Marchioness  of  Breadalbanc,  lilac  and  white,  mottled,         -  -     5  to  6 

Marchioness  of  Lansdowne,  blush,  with  purple  edge,           -  -     4  to  5 
§  Marquis  of  Landsdowne,  Brown's,  shaded  orange,  large  flower,       4  to  5 

•Majestic,  Widnall's,  shaded  rose,  free  bloomer,           -         -  -     5  to  6 

•Marshal  Soult,  Elphinstone's.  lilac  and  red,         -         -         -  -     4  to  3 

Maresfield  Hero,  Mitchell's,  yellow,  tipped  with  crimson,     -  -     4  to  5 

Mary  Queen  of  Scots,  white,  margined  with  purple,             -  -     5  to  6 

Mazeppa,  Widnall's,  rich  ruby  purple,       -         -         -         -  -4  to  5 

Metella.  plum  colour,  fine  form,         -         -         -         -         -  -3  to  4 

♦Middlesex  Rival,  extra  fine  dark  purple,            -         -         -  -     5  to  6 

^Miracle,  Milliez's,   blood  red,  superior  form,     -         -         -  -     4  to  5 

4 Miss  Chester,  Stem's,  fine  white,  a  good  form  and  habit,  -     4  to  5 

Miss  Johnston,  Willisnn's.  deep  rose,  extra  fine  form,          -  -     4  to  5 

tMiss  Percival,  Schmitz's,  clear  white,  free  bloomer,             -  -     4  to  5 

Miss  Scroope,  Hedley's,  extra  fine  rose,  cupped,          -        -  5  to  6 


DAHLIA    CATALOGUE.  75 

♦  Denotes  American  Seedlingi.  •  Free  Bloomers.  J  New  Varielisa. 

Feet  high. 

^Miranda.  Brown's,  blush  lilac,          -         -                   -         -  -4  to  5 

§.Miss  Watson.  Girlings,  light  purple,  tipped  with  white,     -  -     4  to  5 

Miss  Wilson,  white,  tipped  with  scarlet,              -         -         -  -     5  to  6 

tMrs.  Fletcher  Webster,  Russell's,  white,  tipped  with  purple,  -     5  to  6 

+Mrs.  Rushton,  Buist's,  blush  white,  tipped  with  lilac,         -  -     5  to  6 

Napoleon,  Smith's,  dark  crimson,  excellent  formed  flower,  -     5  to  6 

Ne  plus  Ultra,  Widnall's,  fine  shaped,  purple  and  crimson,  -     3  to  4 

Newick  Rival,  Manfell's,  beautiful  ruby  rose,      -         -         -  -     5  to  6 

*Nimrod,  Widnall's,  fine  dark  crimson,     -         -         -         -  -5  to  6 

^Northern  Beauty,  Robinson's,  white  tipped  with  purple,  -     4  to  5 

•Orange  Boven,  Calleugh's,  beautiful  bronzy  lilac,  large  flower,  -     4  to  5 

§  Oriental  Pearl,  Aticell's,  creamy  white,  good  form,              -  -     5  to  6 

§<1sgar,  Widnall's,  excellent  dark  crimson,  cupped  petals,  -     5  to  6 

Painted  Lady,  white  and  blood  red,              -         -         -         -  -5  to  6 

Penelope,  Medley's,  blush,  tinted  with  purple,               -         -  -     4  to  5 

§  Perpetual  Grand,  large  purple,         -         -         -         -         -  -4  to  5 

tPhiladelphia,  Schmitz's.  white,  spotted  with  purple,  showy  flower,  4  to  5 

Phenomenon,  Whale's,  white,  edged  with  rosy  lilac,    -         -  -     5  to  6 

§  Phoenix.  Htdky's,  deep  red  scarlet,  good  form,           -         -  -     4  to  5 

*Pickwick,  dark  purple,  fine  show  flower,            -         -         -  -     4  to  5 

Picta  Magniflora,  Wells's,  yellow,  edged  with  red,       -         -  -     3  to  4 

§  Plough  Boy,  Girling' s,  dark  purple,  large  and  fine  flower,  -     4  to  5 

Premier,  Bowman's,  fine  cupped  yellow,              -         -         -  -     4  to  5 

•President,  Wilmcr's,  dark  purple,  well  formed,           -         -  -     5  to  6 

President  of  the  West,  dark  crimson,  fine  tbrm,           -         -  -     4  to  5 

Pride  of  Sussex,  fine  whi'e,  excellent  form,         -         -         -  -     4  to  5 

Prima  Donna,  Squihbs's,  blush,  tinted  with  rosy  lilac,            -  -     5  to  6 

§Prince  Albert,  Adams's,  chestnut  brown,  shaded  with  salmon,  -     4  to  5 

^Prince  of  Wales,  Dodd's,  fine  yellow,  cupped  petals,         -  -     3  to  .; 
§Princess  P,.oya\.  Hudson's,  pale  amber,  edged  with  pink,  cup'd  petals,  3  t»  4 

^Princess  Royal,  Her  wood's,  fine  primrose,  good  form,         -  -     4  to  5 

§  Princess  Royal,  Tluirnpson's  bright  orange,  margined  with  red,  -     3  to  4 

•Queen  Victoria,  Fowler's,  while,  laced  with  purple,             -  -     4  to  5 

Queen.  Ansell's,  white,  mottled  and  edged  with  pink,          -  -     3  to  4 

•Queen,  Widnall's,  true  peach  blossom,  splendid  form,        -  -     4  to  5 

§Queen  of  Lilacs,  Appleby's,  fine  form  and  constant  bloomer,  -     4  to  5 

^Rainbow.  Smith's,  yellow,  beautifully  edged  with  rosy  purple,  -     4  to  5 

Rainbow,  Widnall's,  purple  and  crimson,  shaded,       -         -  -     5  to  6 

•Reliance,  Widnall's,  orange,  finely  cupped,       -         -         -  -     5  to  6 

Revenge.  Cox's,  fine  sulphur,  large  flower,           -         -         .  -     4  to  5 

Rival  Prince  of  Oranse,  Widnall's,  light  orange,         -         -  -     5  to  6 

Rival  Rose.  Goodwin's,  superb  ruby  rose,  cupped,       -         -  -     3  to  4 

•Rienzi,  Widnall's,  crimson  and  puce,  mottled,           -         •  -     4  to  5 

Rosa  Supurba,  Elphinstone's,  extra  fine  ruby  rose,       -         -  -     5  to  C 

Rose  Superior,  Girling's,  very  splendid,  perfect  flower,        -  -     5  to  6 
§Rose  Unique,  Ansell's,  light  rose,  fine  centre,  and  free  bloomer,     4  to  5 

Rosetta,  Mayhew's,  fine  ruby  rose,    -         -         -         -  -6  to  6 


/6  DAHLIA    CATALOGUE. 

t  Denotes  American  Seedlings.  •  Free  Bloomers.  §  New  Tarietief. 

Feet  high. 
Rouge  et  Noir,  Avsell's,  deep  crimson,  shaded  with  dark  purple,     4  to  6 
*Ruby  Superb,  Walter's,  fine  ruby  red,  excellent  form,  free  bloomer,  5  to  6 
Royal  Standard,  Whale  s,  rich  rosy  purple,         -         -         -         -     5  to  6 

§Satirist,  Morllock's,  lilac  purple,  fine  form  and  habit,  -         -     4  to  5 

Scarlet  Defiance,  Courlrey'.s,  fine  bright  scarlet,  -         -         -     4  to  5 

♦Scarlet  Defiance.  Coiisins's,  vivid  scarlet,  •         -         -         -     5  to  6 

§Sir  R.  Sale,  S/7/i//i's,  crimson  purple,  cupped  petals,  with  fine  centre,  4  to  5 
§Sir  F.  Johnston,  Hilller's,  rosy  purple,  fine  form,      -         -         -     4  to  5 
Spectabiie,  Widnall's,  light  primrose,  with  purple  margin,  -     4  to  5 

Springfield  Major,  Gaines's,  large  dark  crimson  purple,         -         -     6  to  7 
*Stella,  fine  crimson,  cupped  petals,  constant  and  free,         -         -     4  to  5 
♦Striata   Formos'ssima,  Bates's,  blush  white,  striped  and  spotted 

with  crimson,         -         -         -         -         -         -         .         -4  to  5 

§  St.  George,  F«?fC'//'.s,  deep  rose,  good  form,     -         -         -         -     5  to  6 

§  Stanley,  Jones's,  fine  rose  blush,  excellent  form,         -         -         -     5  to  6 
^Surprise,  Oakley's,  bright  scarlet,  fineh  tipped  with  white,         -     4  to  5 
*Sulphurea  Elegans,  Jones's,  sulphur  yellow,      -         -         -         -     6  to  6 

*Sufl^olk  Hero,  Girling's,  fine  dark  maroon,         -         -         -         -     4  to  5 

Sunbury  Hero,  WUmer's,  yellow,  tipped  with  red,      -         -         -     5  to  6 
*Sylph,  Wiinall's,  white,  edged  and  mottled  with  rose,       -         -     4  to  5 
+T.  G.  Percival,  Schndfz's,  large  dark  crimson,  round  petals,  fine  form,  4  to  5 
♦Tournament.  Catleugh's,  ruby  scarlet,  extra  fine,        -         -         -     5  to  6 
♦Triumph.  Mi//iez's,  white,  tinted  with  purple,  superb  flower,     -     5  to  6 
§Turville's  P^^ssex  Triumph,  very  dark,  almost  black,  -         -     3  to  4 

§Twyford  Perfection,  Young's,  deep  ruby,  cupped  petals,  -         -     5  to  6 
Unique,  Anselt's,  light  yellow,  tipped  with  red,  -         •         -     4  to  .5 

Unique,  Walter's,  white,  delicately  laced  with  pale  lilac,     -         -     5  to  6 
Upway  Rival,  light  purple,  fine  form,         -         -         -         -         -4  to  5 

♦Uxbridge  Magnet,  Catleugh's,  mottled  purple,  fine  large  flower,     5  to  6 
•Vesta,  Wells's,  blush,  fine  bold  flower,      -         -         -         -         -     4  to  .5 

Victory,  Knight's,  rich  dark  crimson,         -         -         -         -         -5  to  6 

Village  Maid,  beautiful  light  blush,  -         -         -         -         -4  to  5 

Viola,  Read's,  rose  colour,  tipped  with  red,         -         -         -         -     4  to  5 

^Virgil,  Monnljoy's,  ruby  purple,      -         -         -         -         -         -4  to  5 

Virgin  Queen,  clear  white,  finely  formed  flower,  -         -         -     5  to  6 

tWashington  Irvinii,  Schmitz's,  light  purple,  free  bloomer,  -     5  to  6 

§Westbury  Rival,  Hall's,  puce,  fine  form  and  constant  bloomer,  -  4  to  .5 
§White  Defiance,  Langelier's,  very  fine  white,  good  form,  -  -  3  to  4 
♦Will  Watch,  Girling's,  shaded  ruby,  constant  and  fine,  -  -  5  to  6 
Windmill  Hill  Rival,  white  and  violet,  neat  flower,  -  -  -  4  to  5 
*Winterton  Kival,  Nelson's,  light  yellow,  good  form,  -  -  -  5  to  6 
Xarifa,  Oxer's,  pale  yellow,  fine  form,  -  -  -  .  -  4  to  5 
Yellow  Climax,  Wildman's,  extra  fine  yellow,  perfect  shape,       -     4  to  5 

Yellow  Defiance,  Cox's,  brilliant  yellow, 4  to  5 

tYellow  Victory,  Flckmilz's,  brimstone  yellow,  finely  cupped,  -  4  to  5 
•York  and  Lancaster,  fine  rose  pink,  free  bloomer,  -  -  -  5  to  6 
Zeno,  ElphiastoTie's,  beautiful  purple,        -         -        -         -        -4  to  6 


DOUBLE    DAHLIA.  77 

As  some  amateurs  are  apt  to  fancy  that  the  most  economi- 
cal method  of  obtaining  a  supjjly  of  Dahhas  in  their  gardens, 
is  to  raise  them  from  seed,  it  may  be  necessary  to  remind 
such,  that  the  trouble  and  expense  of  raising  any  quantity 
of  seedlings,  is  equal  to  that  attending  the  cultivation  of  the 
same  number  of  the  choicest  varieties ;  and  when  it  is  con- 
sidered that  the  greatest  proportion  of  a  plantation  may  be 
single,  and  semi-double,  and  that  but  few  double  flowering 
plants  can  be  expected,  equal  to  those  above  described,  it 
must  appear  evident  that  it  is  the  interest  of  such  persons  as 
desire  to  have  their  gardens  unencumbered  with  plants  that 
are  not  calculated  to  ornament  the  same,  to  procure  plants 
or  roots  of  such  varieties  as  have  been  tested,  and  highly 
recommended,  as  is  the  case  with  all  those  described  in  the 
preceding  Catalogue,  and  also  those  which  are  generally  sold 
by  the  regular  florists.  But  as  I  am  writing  for  young  gar- 
deners, it  may  be  necessary  to  state,  that  although  new  varie 
ties  are  usually  raised  from  seed  of  the  flnest  double  flowers, 
some  successful  propegatoi's  prefer  that  procured  fiom  semi 
double  varieties.  Sow  seed  toward  the  end  of  February, 
v'lr  early  in  March,  in  pots,  and  plunge  them  in  a  moderate 
hot-bed,  or  seed  may  be  deposited  in  the  earth  of  the  beds, 
in  shallow  drills,  and  the  beds  attended  to  as  dii'ected  in  the 
Calendar  for  February  and  INIarch. 

Nothing  is  more  simple  than  the  cultivation  of  Dahlia 
roots.  In  March  or  April,  they  will,  if  properly  kept  through 
the  winter,  begin  to  sprout  around  the  old  stems  and  tubers. 
To  forward  these  sprouts  in  growth,  the  roots  should  either  be 
buried  in  light  earth  on  the  top  of  a  moderate  hot-bed,  or 
else  potted,  and  then  set  in  a  warm  room,  or  green-house, 
and  watered.  As  soon  as  the  shoots  have  grown  to  the 
length  of  two  or  three  inches,  the  roots  may  be  divided  in 
such  a  manner  as  to  have  a  good  strong  shoot  attached  to  a 
piece  of  the  tuber,  or  old  stem ;  each  of  these  will,  if  pro- 
peily  managed,  make  a  plant.  Those  who  may  commence 
cultivating  at  an  early  season,  should  put  the  plants  thus 

7* 


78  DOUBLE    DAHLIA. 

separated  into  small  pots,  and  keep  them  in  a  growing  state 
until  about  the  middle  of  May,  at  which  time  they  may  be 
turned  out  of  the  pots  with  the  balls  of  earth  entire,  and 
planted  in  the  open  borders,  from  three  to  four  feet  from 
each  other*  Let  the  ground  be  well  pulverized,  and  enriched 
with  good  old  manure,  before  the  plants  are  set  out.  If  the 
top  soil  be  shallow,  and  the  subsoil  inferior,  it  would  be  bene 
ficial  to  the  plants  to  dig  holes  to  the  depth  of  fiom  a  foot 
to  eighteen  inches,  and  then  replenish  the  earth  with  good 
rich  compost,  consisting  of  two  thirds  of  fresh  loam,  and  one 
third  of  well-rotted  manure. 

Many  cultivators  have  found  late  planting  to  suit  better 
than  early ;  and  I  myself  have  had  more  perfect  flowers 
from  platits  set  out  about  the  middle  of  June,  than  from  those 
planted  in  May :  this  is  easily  accounted  for.  In  July  and 
August  the  weather  is  generally  hot,  which  brings  the  most 
forward  plants  into  bud  at  an  early  season,  and  in  the  event 
of  a  continuation  of  hot,  dry  weather,  such  buds  fail  to  pro- 
duce perfect  flowers ;  whereas  those  plants  which  are  set 
out  late,  keep  growing  through  the  hot  weather,  and  produce 
their  buds  just  in  time  to  receive  all  the  benefit  of  the  au- 
timmal  rains.  From  a  consideration  of  these  circumstances, 
I  think  early  in  June  the  safest  time  to  set  out  Dahlia  plants; 
and  if  those  persons  who  have  no  convenience  to  force  their 
roots,  set  them  out  in  May,  in  ground  prepared  as  before 
directed,  they  will  generally  succeed  very  well,  provided  they 
take  cai'e  to  cover  them  in  case  of  a  cold  change  of  weather. 
The  roots  may  be  thus  cultivated  entire,  as  is  frequently 
done;  but  if  it  be  desired  to  have  them  parted,  this  business 
can  be  easily  accomplished  without  disturbing  the  roots,  and 
the  offsets  may  be  planted  in  the  ground  separately  or  potted. 

•  In  order  to  obtain  an  extra  number  of  plants  from  any  choice  varieties, 
cuttings  are  frequently  taken  from  tlie  shoots  when  about  three  inches  in 
length,  which  are  planted  in  narscry-pots,  and  cultivated  in  hot-beds;  they 
require  to  be  shaded  from  the  sun,  by  mats,  for  the  first  fortnight,  after 
which  they  may  be  gradually  innured  to  the  air,  and  treated  as  plants  raised 
in  the  ordinary  way. 


GLADIOLUS,  CORN-FLAG,  OR  SWORD  LILY.  79 

Previous  to  setting  out  the  plants,  it  will  be  necessary  to 
provide  for  their  preservation  through  the  varied  changes  of 
the  season,  or  a  sudden  gust  of  wind  may  destroy  the  expec- 
tations of  a  year.  The  branches  of  the  Dahlia  are  extremely 
brittle,  and,  therefore,  a  good  stout  pole,  or  neat  stake,  should 
be  driven  down  near  each  root,  of  a  suitable  height,  so  that 
the  branches,  as  they  progress  in  growth,  may  be  tied  thereto 
at  eveiy  joint,  which  may  be  done  with  shreds  of  matting  or 
twine.  If  the  poles  be  in  readiness,  they  are  much  more  easily 
fixed  at  the  time  of  planting  the  Dahhas  than  afterward ;  but 
it  may  be  done  at  any  time  after  the  ground  has  been  softened 
by  rain,  provided  it  be  not  delayed  too  long,  so  as  to  subject 
tho  plants  to  risk.  Sometimes  a  few  forward  buds  of  the 
Dahlias  will  exhibit  their  premature  beauties  to  the  beams 
of  a  July  and  August  sun ;  but  their  lustre  is  quickly  dim- 
med. The  latter  end  of  September,  sometimes  all  October, 
and  part  of  November,  witness  the  Dahlia  in  all  its  glory ;' 
and  dwarf  plants,  cultivated  in  pots,  will  sometimes  blossom 
at  Christmas;  but  they  require  more  than  ordinary  care,  at 
a  late  period  of  their  growth. 


GLADIOLUS,  CORN-FLAG,  OR  SWORD  LILY. 

Op  this  genus  of  bulbs  there  are  about  fifty  species,  natives 
of  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope.  They  produce  flowers'  of  vari- 
ous colours,  in  August  and  September,  and  are  well  worthy 
the  attention  of  those  who  cultivate  tender  exotic  plants. 
They  may  be  planted  in  September  or  October,  about  an 
inch  deep,  in  pots,  which  must  be  kept  in  a  green-house  or 
light  room,  and  watered  sparingly  until  they  begin  to  grow. 
The  following  are  known  to  be  superb  species  and  varieties  : 

G.  alalm,  or  Wing-Flowered,  producing  bright  oran^ei 
coloured  flowers.  ° 

G.  blandus  produces  flowers  of  a  beautiful  blush  rose 
colour. 


80  GLADIOLUS,  CORN-FLAG,  OR  SWORD  LILY. 

G.  Byzantinus,  or  Turkish  Flag,  has  large  delicate  purplo 
flowers. 

G.  cardinalis.  This  variety  produces  very  large  flowers  of 
superb  scarlet,  spotted  with  white. 

G.  jiorihundus,  or  Cluster  Flower,  produces  large  flowers 
if  white  and  pink  colour. 

The  Gladiolus  JWUalensis,  or  Psiliacina,  is  perhaps  the 
most  desirable  to  cultivate  of  all  others.  It  blossoms  freely, 
and  the  colours  are  exquisitely  beautiful.  In  its  progress  of 
blooming,  it  exhibits  variable  colours,  as  vermilion,  red,  yel- 
low, green,  white,  crimson,  &c.,  which  brighten,  as  the  flower 
arrives  at  perfection,  to  the  brilliancy  of  a  rainbow.  Another 
good  quality  displays  itself  in  the  bulb,  which,  if  properly 
managed,  will  yield  an  abundance  of  offsets  ;  these  being 
cultivated,  will  flower  the  third  year  in  perfection,  and  thus 
continue  to  multiply  perpetually. 

I  have  named  September  and  October  as  the  time  for 
planting,  because  it  is  considered  the  preferable  season  for 
most  bulbs ;  but  if  these  be  preserved  in  good  condition 
through  the  wintei  until  early  in  April,  and  then  planted  in 
a  soil  consisting  of  about  one  half  fresh  loam,  equal  parts 
of  leaf  mould,  and  sand,  well  mixed,  they  may  be  forwarded 
in  a  warm  room,  green-house,  or  moderate  hot-bed,  until 
settled  warm  weather,  and  then  turned  out  of  the  pots  into 
a  border,  where  they  can  be  shaded  from  the  sun  at  noon- 
day ;  this  will  induce  each  of  them  to  throw  up  three  or  four 
stems,  from  three  to  four  feet  high,  each  stem  producing  five 
or  six  gorgeous  blossoms,  in  great  perfection.  Those  planted 
in  the  autumn  or  winter,  may  also  be  turned  out  of  the  pots 
in  June  ;  and,  from  the  fibres  having  taken  substantial  root 
in  the  soil  before  transplanting,  such  plants  may  be  taken 
up  again  in  August,  or  early  in  September ;  and  on  being 
planted  in  large  pots,  they  may  be  removed,  so  as  to  perfect 
their  bloom,  within  view  of  the  parlour  or  sitting-room,  which 
will  afford  considerable  amusement  and  gratification. 


HYACINTH.  82 

HYACINTH. 

"Hail  to  thee  !   hail,  thou  lovely  flower! 
Still  shed  around  thy  sweet  perfume, 
Still  smile  amid  tiie  Wintry  hour, 
And  boast  e'en  then  a  spring-tide  bloom. 
Thus  hope,  mid  life's  severest  days, 
Still  smiles,  still  triumphs  o'er  despair ; 
Alike  she  lives  in  pleasure's  rays, 
And  cold  affliction's  Winter  air." 

There  are,  as  has  been  already  stated,  about  thirteen 
hundred  varieties  of  this  family  of  plants,  comprising  all  the 
various  hues,  as  white,  pink,  red,  yellow,  blue,  purple,  crim- 
son, &c.,  and  some  of  those  with  various  coloured  eyes. 
They  begin  to  produce  their  flowers  in  the  open  borders 
early  in  April,  on  short  erect  stems  covered  with  florets  or 
small  bells  ;  each  floret  is  well  filled  with  petals  rising  toward 
the  centre,  and  is  suspended  from  the  stem  by  short  strontj 
footstalks,  the  longest  at  the  bottom,  and  the  uppeiTnost 
florets  stand  so  erect  as  to  form  a  pyramid.  A  plantation,  or 
bed  of  these,  has  a  very  beautiful  appearance,  provided  they 
are  well  attended  to.  In  planting  them,  which  should  be 
in  the  months  of  October  or  November,  care  should  be  taken 
to  have  the  colours  so  diversified  as  to  suit  the  fancy;  they 
maybe  placed  in  short  rows  across  the  bed,  about  eight  inches 
'^part,  and  from  three  to  four  inches  deep,  measuring  from 
the  top  of  the  bulb,  and  covered  up  at  the  setting  in  of  win- 
ter, as  before  recommended  for  bulbs  in  general. 

Those  who  may  have  a  fine  collection,  should  have  an 
awning  erected  in  the  spring,  to  screen  them  from  the  chill 
ing  blast,  and  also  from  drenching  rains  and  the  noonday 
sun;  and  they  should  be  looked  over  as  soon  as  they  make 
their  appearance  above  ground,  to  see  if  they  are  all  perfect 
and  regular ;  if  faulty  or  inferior  bulbs  should  appear  to  have 
been  planted  in  a  conspicuous  part  of  the  bed,  by  accident 
or  mistake,  they  can  be  taken  out,  and  by  shortening  the 
rows,  others  may  be  substituted  with  a  trowel.  When  all 
are  regulated,  look  over  them  frequently,  and  as  the  stems 


82  IRIS,  OR  FLOWER  DE  LUCE. IXIAS. 

sTioot  up,  tie  them  to  wires,  or  small  rods,  with  shreds  of 
bass  matting  or  thread,  being  careful  not  to  injure  the  florets. 
In  about  six  weeks  after  they  have  done  flowering,  the  bulbs 
may  be  taken  ii]),  and  managed  as  recommended  for  bulbs 
in  general,  in  a  former  page. 


mis,  OR  FLOWER  DE  LUCE. 

There  are  two  distinct  species  of  plants  cultivated  under 
the  name  of  Flower  de  Luce,  each  consisting  of  several  varie- 
ties. The  bulbous  species  and  varieties  are  designated  as 
English,  Spanish,  Chalcedonian,  and  American.  These,  if 
introduced  into  the  flower  borders,  and  intermixed  with 
perennial  plants  of  variable  colours,  have  a  very  pretty 
appearance  when  planted  in  clumps  or  patches.  This  may 
be  done  in  the  month  of  October,  by  taking  out  a  spadeful 
of  earth  from  each  place  allotted  for  a  plant,  and  then  insert- 
ing three  or  four  bulbs,  about  two  inches  deep.  If  the  ground 
be  poor,  some  rich  comjoost  may  be  dug  in  around  the  spot 
before  the  bulbs  are  planted ;  and  if  several  sorts  be  planted 
in  the  same  border,  let  them  be  of  various  colours.  The 
tuberous-rooted  are  of  vaiious  colours,  as  blue,  yellow,  brown, 
and  spotted ;  they  are  easily  cultivated,  and  flower  freely  in 
a  loose  soil  inclining  to  moisture,  if  planted  in  March  or  April. 


IXIAS. 


These  are  tender,  but  very  free  flowering  bulbs,  producing 
on  their  stems,  which  vary  in  height  from  six  inches  to  two 
feet,  very  delicate  flowers  of  various  colours,  as  orange, 
blush,  white,  purple,  green,  crimson,  scarlet,  and  some  have 
two  or  three  colours  blended  in  the  same  plant. 

There  are,  in  all,  upward  of  twenty  species,  which  may 
be  cultivated  in  the  green-house,  by  planting  the  bulbs  in 
pots  in  September  or  October,  and  placing  them  near  the 
light,  and  watering  them  sparingly  until  they  begin  to  shoot. 


JONQUILS LACHENALIAS LILIES.  83 

JONQUILS. 

Tins  is  a  harJy  race  of  bulbs,  and  produces  very  delicate 
yellow  flowei's  early  in  May.  There  are  different  varieties, 
some  of  which  are  single  flowering,  and  others  double. 
Their  fragrance  is  very  grateful,  being  similar  to  that  of 
Jasmines.  The  bulbs  may  be  planted  about  two  inches 
deep  in  the  flower  borders,  or  in  pots,  in  October,  or  before 
the  setting  in  of  winter ;  they  flower  better  the  second  year 
than  in  the  first,  and,  therefore,  should  not  be  moved  and 
replanted  oftener  than  once  in  three  years. 


LACHENALIAS. 

These  are  tender  little  bulbs,  natives  of  the  Cape  of  Good 
Hope.  There  aie  supposed  to  be  in  all  about  forty  species 
and  varieties.  Those  most  cultivated  with  us  are  the  Lach- 
enalia  quadricolor,  and  L.  tricolor,  which  are  very  beautiful 
when  in  full  bloom,  exhibiting  flowers  of  various  colours  on 
a  stem  of  from  six  inches  to  a  foot  in  height,  and  much  irj 
the  character  of  Hyacinths.  The  colours,  which  are  yellow, 
scarlet,  orange,  green,  &c.,  are  very  pure  and  distinct.  L. 
nervosa,  L.  orchoides,  L.  punctata,  and  L.  rubida,  are  all 
excellent  species,  and  woithy  of  cultivation.  They  may  be 
planted  from  one  to  two  inches  deep,  in  small  pots,  in  the 
months  of  August  and  September,  and  watered  but  sparingly 
until  they  begin  to  grow. 


LILIES. 


There  are  several  plants  under  this  name,  of  different 
g;enera,  some  of  which  are  indigenous.  The  Canada  Lily, 
with  yellow  spotted  drooping  flowers,  may  be  seen  in  wet 
meadows  toward  the  last  of  June,  and  early  in  July.  The 
Philadelphia  Lily  blooms  also  in  July ;  its  flowers  are  red. 


84  LILIES. 

There  are  some  pure  white,  and  others  yellow,  growing  in 
various  parts  of  the  country.  Among  the  foreign  genera 
are  several  species.  Of  the  Mavtagon,  or  Turk's  Cap  Lilies, 
there  are  some  beautiful  varieties;  as  the  Caligula,  which 
produces  scarlet  flowers ;  and  there  is  one  called  the  Crown 
of  Tunis,  of  purple  colour ;  beside  these,  are  the  Double 
Violet  Flamed,  the  White,  the  Orange,  and  the  Spotted ; 
these  are  all  hardy,  and  may  be  planted  in  various  parts  of 
the  garden,  by  taking  out  a  square  foot  of  earth,  and  then, 
after  manuring  and  pulveiizing  it,  the  bulbs  may  be  j^lanted 
therein  before  the  setting  in  of  winter,  at  different  depths, 
from  two  to  four  inches,  according  to  the  size  of  the  bulbs. 
Some  of  the  Chinese  varieties  are  very  beaulifid,  as  the 
Tiger,  or  Leopard  Lily,  and  the  dwarf  red,  Lilium  con- 
color.  There  are  others  with  elegant  silver  stripes,  which 
are  very  showy,  and  there  is  one  called  Liliiim  svperbiim, 
that  has  been  known  to  have  twenty-five  flowers  on  a  single 
Btalk. 

Beside  those  above  enumerated,  there  are  some  others 
which  are  generally  cultivated  in  green-houses,  as  the  Calla, 
or  Ethiopian  Lily;  and  the  following,  which  have  been 
kno\\Ti  to  endure  our  winters,  by  protecting  them  with 
dung,  &:c. :  Lilium  longiflorum ,  in  two  varieties  ;  these  pro- 
duce on  their  stalks,  which  grow  from  twelve  to  eighteen 
inches  high,  beautiful  rose  coloured  flowers,  streaked  with 
white,  which  are  very  sweet-scented.  These  roots  are 
sometimes  kept  out  of  the  ground  until  spring,  and  then 
planted  in  the  flower  borders,  but  they  should  be  preserved 
carefully  in  sand  or  dry  mould.  Lilium  Japonicum :  of 
these  there  are  two  varieties,  which  produce  several  stalks 
at  once,  yielding  very  showy  flowers.  One  of  the  varieties 
is  blue  flowered,  and  the  other  produces  flowers  of  the 
purest  white. 


NARCISSUS. OEMTHOGALUM.  OR  STAR  OF  BETHLT^HEM.     85 

NARCISSUS. 

The  species  and  varieties  of  this  plant  are  numerous.    The 
Incomparable  is  perfectly  hardy,  and  produces  its  flowers  in 
April,  which  are  called  by  some  pasche,  or  pans  flowers,  by 
others,  butter  and  eggs  ;  perhaps  because  their  bright  yellow 
petals  are  surrounded  with  large  white  ones.     Some  persons 
dislike  the  smell  of  these,  and  it  is  said  that  the  odour  has  a 
pernicious  eff'ect  upon  the  nerves ;  but  the  white  fragrant 
double,  as  well  as  the  Roman,  and  Polyanthus  Narcissus,  are 
free  from  this  objection,  being  of  a  very  grateful  and  agree- 
able  smell.     Some  of  these  are  justly  held  in  great  esteem 
for  their  earliness,  as  well  as  for  their  varied  colours.     The 
Grand  Monarque   de   France,  the  Uelle  Lcgoise,  and  some 
others,  have  white  flowers  with  yellow  cups.     The  Glorieux 
has  a  yellow  ground,  with  orange   coloured    cups;  beside 
these  are  some  white  and  citron  coloured,  as  the  Luna,  and 
others  entirely  white,  as  the  Rein  Blanche  and  Mor2:enster. 
All  these  varieties  are  very  suitable  either  for  the  pailour  or 
green-house,  and  may  be  planted  in  pots,  from  October  to 
December,  from  two  to  three  inches  deep.     The  double  Ro- 
man Narcissus  are  very  sweet-scented  ;  if  these  be  planted  in 
pots,  or  put  into  bulb  glasses  in  the  month  of  October,  they 
will  flower  in  January  and  February. 

Polyanthus  Narcissus  are  more  delicate  than  Hyacinths 
or  Tulips;  when  they  are  planted  in  the  open  border,  they 
should  be  covered  about  four  inches  with  earth,  and  before 
the  setting  in  of  winter,  it  is  advisable  to  cover  the  beds  with 
straw,  leaves,  or  litter,  to  the  depth  of  six  or  seven  inches, 
and  to  uncover  them  about  the  middle  of  March. 


ORNITHOGALUM,  OR  STAR  OF  BETHLEHEM. 

There  are  about  fifty  varieties  of  these  bulbs,  natives  of 
the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  some  of  which  are  from  three  to 
five  inches  in  diameter,  and  shaped  similar  to  a  pear-  others 

8  ^       ' 


86  OXALIS. 

are  mucli  like  Hyacintli  bulbs.  Among  those  cultivated  in 
America  are  the  0.  lacteum,  and  the  O.  aiireim ;  the  former 
produces  fine  white  flowers,  and  the  spike  is  about  a  foot  in 
length ;  and  the  latter  produces  flowers  of  a  golden  colour, 
in  contracted  racemose  corymbs.  The  O.  marilinuan,  oi 
Sea  Squill,  is  curious ;  from  the  centre  of  the  root  rise  seve- 
ral shining  glauceus  leaves,  a  foot  long,  two  inches  broad  at 
the  base,  and  narrowing  to  a  point.  If  kept  in  a  green-house, 
these  are  green  during  the  winter,  and  decay  in  the  spring ; 
then  the  flower-stalk  comes  up  rising  two  feet,  naked  half 
•way,  and  terminated  by  a  pyramidal  thryse  of  white  flowers. 
These  bulbs  are  generally  cultivated  in  the  green-house, 
and  require  a  compost  consisting  of  about  one  half  fresh  loam, 
one  third  leaf  mould,  and  the  remainder  sand,  in  which  they 
may  be  planted  in  September.  When  cultivated  in  the  gai'- 
den,  they  should  be  planted  four  or  five  inches  deep,  and 
protected  with  dung,  &;c.  They  produce  their  flowers  early 
in  June. 


OXALIS. 

The  Oxalis  is  a  native  of  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope ;  the 
species  are  numerous,  and  their  roots  are  veiy  small  bulbs, 
articulated,  jointed,  or  graimlated,  in  a  manner  peculiar  to 
this  genus.  They  pi'oduce  curious  flowers  of  various  hues, 
yellow,  purple,  rose,  red,  white,  striped,  vermilion  colour,  &c. 
The  bulbs  should  be  planted  in  very  small  pots,  in  August 
and  September,  in  a  compost  consisting  of  about  two  thirds 
loam,  and  one  third  leaf  or  light  mould,  and  treated  in  the 
aame  manner  as  other  Cape  Bulbs.  They  increase  in  a  pe- 
culiar manner,  by  the  parent  bulb  striking  a  fibre  down  from 
its  base,  at  the  extremity  of  which  is  produced  a  new  bulb 
for  the  next  year's  plant,  the  old  one  perishing.  These 
plants  will  flower  freely  in  a  green-house. 


P^ONT.  87 

P^ONY. 

«'  PiEonia  round  each  fiery  ring  unfurls, 
Bares  to  the  noon's  bright  blaze  her  sanguine  cuils." 

Of  this  genus  of  splendid  plants  there  are  known  to  be 
about  twenty  species,  and  as  many  varieties.  It  is  said  that 
the  PcEonia  officinalis  rubra,  or  common  double  red  Peeony, 
was  introduced  into  Antwerp  upward  of  two  centuries  ago, 
at  which  time  it  was  sold  at  an  enormous  price.  It  has  since 
been  highly  esteemed  in  Europe  and  America,  and  is  to  be 
found  in  all  well-established  gardens,  exhibiting  its  vivid 
crimson  petals  early  in  June.  Many  superb  species  have  of 
late  years  been  brought  from  China,  a  few  of  which  maybe 
noticed,  with  some  others  which  are  in  very  great  repute. 

Pceonia  alba  Chinensis  is  one  of  the  finest  of  the  herbaceous 
sorts.  The  flowers  are  white,  tinged  with  pink  at  the  bot- 
tom of  the  petals. 

P.  edulis  ivhitleji  has  also  white  flowers,  which  are  very 
large  and  splendid. 

P.  edulis  fragrans,  is  a  fine  large  double  scarlet  variety, 
and  produces  flowers  perfumed  like  the  rose. 

P.  hiimei  has  beautiful  large  double  dark  blush-coloured 

flowers. 

P.  paradoxa  Jimbriata  produces  fringed  double  red  flowers, 

which  are  very  beautiful. 

These  are  all  hardy,  and  may  be  planted  about  four  inches 
deep  in  the  garden,  in  October  or  November.  The  flowers 
exhibit  themselves  to  the  best  advantage  when  planted  on  a 
bed  that  is  elevated,  and  of  a  circular  form. 

The  following  are  half  hardy  and  half  shrubby;  these 
have  been  known  to  survive  the  winter  by  being  well  pro- 
tected, but  are  kept  much  better  in  a  green-house  ;  and  they 
also  exhibit  their  flowers  to  greater  advantage  than  when 
exposed  to  the  full  sun. 

P.  moutaii  Bankslii,  or  Tree  Paeony,  produces  veiy  large 
double  blush  flowers  in  abundance,  with  feathered  edges  to 
every  petal.     This  variety  is  highly  deserving  of  cultivation. 


88  TULIP. 

p.  mouian  rosea  is  a  fine  rose-coloured  double  variety,  and 
produces  very  splendid  flowers. 

P.  mouian  papaveracea  produces  very  large  white  flowers, 
with  pink  centres.  This  splendid  variety  frequently  bears 
flowers  from  nine  to  eleven  inches  in  diameter. 

Beside  the  above,  are  several  others  of  various  colours, 
some  of  which  are  semi-double. 


TULIP. 

"  For  brilliant  tints  to  charm  the  eye, 
What  plant  can  with  the  Tulip  viel 
Yet  Ro  delicious  scent  it  yields 
To  cheer  the  garden  or  the  fields  ; 
Vainly  in  gaudy  colours  dressed, 
'Tis  rather  gazed  on  than  caressed." 

The  Tulip  is  a  native  of  the  Levant,  and  has  been  in  cul- 
tivation nearly  three  centuries.  It  may  be  justly  entitled  the 
King  of  Flowers,  for  the  brilliancy  and  en-dless  combination 
of  all  colours  and  shades.  The  varieties  of  the  Tulip  are 
very  numerous,  and  are  divided  into  different  classes.  Those 
cultivated  in  regular  beds  by  amateurs  are  rose-coloured, 
bybloemen,  and  bizarres.  There  are  a  great  many  beautiful 
varieties,  denominated  Parrot  Tulips,  which  have  notched 
petals,  striped  or  diversified  with  green ;  and  also  some  very 
dwarfish  kinds,  both  single  and  double,  which  are  generally 
cultivated  in  parlours  and  green-houses. 

Mr.  T.  Hogg,  of  Paddington,  near  London,  has  published 
a  work,  entitled  *  A  Treatise  on  the  cultivation  of  Florists' 
Flowers,'  which  comprises  the  Tulip,  Carnation,  Auricula, 
Ranunculus,  Polyanthus,  Dahlia,  German  and  China  Asters, 
Seedling  Heart's  Ease,  and  New  Annuals.  In  that  work, 
which  is  dedicated  to  Queen  Adelaide,  the  author  remarks 
that  the  cultivation  of  the  Tulip  is  one  of  the  most  fascina- 
ting and  pleasing  pursuits  imaginable,  and  that  when  "  The 
Tulip  mania  has  fairly  got  hold  of  any  one,  it  sticks  to  him 


TULIP.  89 

like  the  skin  on  his  back,  and  remains  with  him  the  rest  of 
his  hfe."  He  instances  a  Mr.  Davey,  of  Chelsea,  as  being 
in  his  seventy-fifth  year,  and  in  whose  breast  the  fancy  for 
Tuhps  was  so  predominant,  that  in  the  autumn  of  1832,  ho 
was  induced  to  part  with  a  hundred  sovereigns  for  one  sin- 
gle Tulip,  named  "  Miss  Fanny  Kemble."  Perhaps  a  better 
definition  of  what  constitutes  the  properties  of  a  good  Tulip, 
could  not  be  given  than  a  description  of  this  "  precious  gem, 
or  loveliest  of  all  Tulips ;"  but,  lest  my  readers  should  con- 
clude that  the  old  man  was  in  his  dotage,  I  would  inform 
them  that  this  favouiite  bulb  was  purchased  of  the  executors 
of  the  late  Mr.  Clarke,  with  whom  it  originated,  and  that  it 
had  not  only  been  the  pet  of  its  owner,  but  had  excited  the 
envy  and  admiration  of  all  the  amateurs  who  went  to  view  it. 

"  This  precious  gem,  a  bijbloeriieii  Tulip,  was  raised  from 
one  of  Mr.  Clarke's  seedling  breeders,  and  broke  into  colour 
three  years  ago ;  it  has  produced  two  offsets  since,  and  is 
adapted  to  the  second  or  third  row  in  the  bed ;  the  stem  is 
firm  and  elastic ;  the  foliage  full  and  broad,  of  a  lively  green ; 
the  cup  large,  and  of  the  finest  form ;  the  white  pure  and 
wholly  free  from  stain  ;  the  pencilling  on  the  petals  is  beau- 
tifully marked  with  black  or  dark  purple,  and  the  feathering 
uniform  and  elegant ;  it  preserves  its  shape  to  the  last,  the 
outer  leaves  not  sinking  from  the  inner ;  in  a  word,  it  is  con- 
sidered the  first  flower  of  its  cast,  and  the  best  that  has  ever 
been  produced  in  England." 

The  article  in  the  work  already  alluded  to,  on  the  culti- 
vation of  Tulips  alone,  occupies  ninety-six  pages ;  T,  there- 
fore, cannot  attempt  any  thing  more  than  an  abridgement  of 
the  author's  ideas  on  some  important  points.  Those  of  my 
readers  who  may  desire  full  information,  are  referred  to  the 
work  itself,  which  may  be  obtained  of  Mr.  G.  C.  Thorburn. 

The  following  description  may  sen^e  to  govern  the  choice 
of  amateurs.  Tulips  exhibited  at  the  show  are,  in  general, 
classed  and  distinguished  as  follows :  Flamed  BizarreSy 
Feathered  Bizarres,  Flamed   Bybloemens,    Feathered  Bybloe- 

8* 


90  TULIP. 

mens,  Flamed  Roses,  Feathered  Roses,   and  Se.lfs,  or  plain- 
coloured. 

A  Bizarre  Tulip  has  a  yellow  ground,  marked  with  pur- 
ple or  scarlet  of  different  shades  ;  it  is  caWed  Jiamed  when  a 
broad  or  irregular  stripe  runs  up  the  middle  of  the  petals, 
with  short  abrupt  projecting  points,  branching  out  on  each 
side  ;  fine  narrow  lines,  called  arched  and  ribbed,  often  extend 
also  from  this  broad  stripe  to  the  extremity  of  the  leaves,  the 
colour  generally  appearing  strongest  in  the  inside  petals;  a 
Tulip,  with  this  broad  coloured  stripe,  which  is  sometimes 
called  beamed  or  splashed,  is,  at  the  same  time,  frequently 
feathered  also. 

It  is  caWed feaihered  when  it  is  without  this  broad  stripe; 
but  yet  it  may  have  some  nari-ow  lines,  joined  or  detached, 
running  up  the  centre  of  the  leaf,  sometimes  branching  out 
and  carved  toward  the  top,  and  sometimes  without  any  spot 
or  line  at  all ;  the  petals  are  feathered  more  or  less  round 
the  edges  or  margin  inside  and  out ;  the  pencilling  or  feath- 
ering is  heavy  or  broad  in  some,  and  light  or  narrow  in 
others,  som.etimes  with  breaks  or  gaps,  and  sometimes  close 
and  continued  all  round. 

A  Btjbloemen  Tulip  has  a  white  ground,  lined,  marked, 
striped,  or  variegated  with  violet  or  purple,  only  of  various 
shades  ;  and  whether  feathered  or  flamed,  is  distinguished 
by  the  same  characters  and  marks  which  are  pointed  out 
and  applied  to  the  Bizarred  Tulips. 

A  Rose  Tulip  is  marked  or  variegated  with  rose,  scarlet, 
crimson,  or  cherry  colour,  on  a  white  gi'ound;  and  the 
Feathered  Rose  is  to  be  distinguished  from  the  Flamed  by 
the  same  rules  as  described  before ;  the  Rose  is  very  often 
both  feathei-ed  and  flamed. 

A  SelJ,  or  plain-coloured  Tulip,  properly  so  called,  is  eithei 
white  or  yellow,  and  admits  of  n-o  farther  change ;  other 
plain-coloured  Tulips,  whether  red  or  purple,  are  called 
breeders,  and  are  hardly  worthy  of  being  exhibited.  Mr, 
Hogg  informs  us,  that  c£100,  say  ^500,  judiciously  expended 


TULIP.  91 

at  the  present  time,  'will  give  a  moderate-sized  bed,  tliat 
shall  contain  the  greater  part  of  the  finest  varieties  grown; 
such  a  bed  as  c£250  would  not  have  purchased  twelve  or 
fourteen  years  ago. 

To  describe  minutely  the  mode  of  planting  a  regular  bed 
of  Tulips  would  exceed  our  limits ;  suffice  it  to  state  that 
the  name  of  every  bulb  should  be  written  in  a  book,  and 
that  they  should  be  so  classed  as  to  have  the  varied  colours 
show  advantageously  ;  to  this  end,  the  tallest  should  be  allot- 
ted for  the  middle  of  the  bed,  and  others  in  regular  grada- 
tion, so  as  to  have  the  most  dwarfish  on  the  sides.  The 
bulbs  must  be  covered  with  good  mould  to  the  depth  of  three 
inches  from  the  top  of  the  bulb  on  the  sides  of  the  bed,  and 
about  four  inches  in  the  middle.  Let  a  small  spoonful  of 
clean  drift  sand  be  used  ai'ound  each  bulb,  and  see  that  the 
bed  be  left  sufficiently  round  from  the  middle  to  the  edges. 
The  beginner  must  understand  that  no  unsightly  tallies,  or 
number  sticks,  are  to  distinguish  the  Tulips ;  but  that  he 
must  adopt  a  sort  of  ground  plan,  dividing  the  whole  bed 
into  rows  of  seven  bulbs  across  ;  for  example,  write  down 
the  names  and  places  of  the  Tulips  in  the  first  row,  and  con- 
tinue the  same  form  all  through  to  the  other  end  of  the  bed. 

Row  First, 

No.  1.  Fenelon, this  is  a  Bybloemen. 

2.  Duchess  of  Clarence,     -     -  "  Rose-coloured. 

3.  Charlemagne,       -     -     -     -  "  Bybloemen. 

4.  Louis  the  Sixteenth,      -     -  "  Bybloemen. 

5.  Memnon,    ------  "  Bizarre. 

6.  Volney, "  Bybloemen. 

7.  Lady  Crewe,  -----  ««  Rose-coloured 

Good  fresh  loam,  taken  from  under  healthy  grass  sods,  is 
the  most  suitable  soil  for  Tulips  to  grow  in ;  under  which 
should  be  buried,  to  the  depth  of  a  foot,  about  two  inches* 
thickness  of  \vell-rotted  cow  or  horse  droppings.  The  reason 
for  placing  the  dung  so  low  is,  that  the  fibres  may  get  down 


92  TUBEROSE. 

to  it,  (which  they  will  do,)  and  that  the  bulbs  may  not  be 
injured  by  it,  as  is  apt  to  be  the  case  if  too  much  dung  is 
used  around  them.  The  best  time  for  planting  the  bulbs  is 
early  in  November,  and  the  beds  should  be  made  a  fortnight 
previous,  in  order  that  the  earth  may  become  sufficiently 
settled. 

If  severe  frosts  set  in  after  the  Tulips  show  themselves 
above  ground  in  the  spring,  some  protection  should  be  given; 
single  mats  placed  over  hoop  bends  answer  very  well ;  and 
at  the  time  of  blooming,  an  awning  should  be  erected  over 
them,  to  screen  them  from  the  intense  heat  of  the  sun,  which 
awning  should  be  sufficiently  spacious  to  admit  of  persons 
walking  under  it,  to  view  the  beautiful  flowers  to  the  great- 
est possible  advantage. 


TUBEROSE. 

This  fragrant  and  delightful  flower  has  been  cultivated  in 
English  flower  gardens  for  upward  of  two  centuries ;  there 
the  bulbs  are  generally  cultivated  in  pots  early  in  the  spring, 
and  transferred  to  the  flower  borders  as  soon  as  it  becomes 
settled  warm  weather  ;  for  they  are  very  tender.  They 
generally  succeed  very  well  hei'e,  if  planted  at  once  in  the 
open  border  toward  the  end  of  April,  and  produce  flowers, 
which  are  pure  white,  and  highly  odoriferous,  on  a  stem  three 
to  four  feet  high. 

The  bulbs  produce  a  number  of  offsets,  which  should  be 
preserved  with  the  parent  plants  through  the  winter,  and 
then  parted  off"  and  planted  by  themselves,  in  April  or  early 
in  May,  to  produce  flowering  roots  for  the  ensuing  year. 
These  roots  thrive  best  in  a  light  rich  soil,  well  pulverized, 
in  which  they  should  be  planted  about  two  inches  deep, 
not  forgetting  to  take  them  up  again  before  the  approach  of 
winter. 


TIGER    FLOWER.  93 

TIGER  FLOWER. 

Perhaps  there  is  no  flower  treated  of  in  this  work  that 
is  more  beautiful  than  some  of  the  species  of  the  genus 
Tigridia.  Like  all  Mexican  bulbs,  these  are  tender,  and 
should  either  be  cultivated  in  the  green-house,  or  carefully 
preserved  until  settled  warm  weather,  and  then  planted  in 
good  light  soil,  in  a  sheltered  situation.  A  bed  of  these 
beautiful  flowers  would  afford  as  much  gratification  to  some 
amateurs  as  a  bed  of  Tulips. 

The  Tigridia  conchijlora  is  of  a  rich  yellow  colour,  tinged 
and  spotted  with  white  and  crimson  ;  the  colours  are  very 
vivid  and  finely  contrasted.  The  Tigridia  pavonia  is  of  the 
brightest  scarlet,  tinged  and  spotted  with  brilliant  yellow. 
The  corolla,  which  is  about  four  inches  in  diameter,  is  com- 
posed of  six  petals ;  the  outer  petals  are  thrown  backward, 
and  exhibit  the  blossom  in  all  its  splendour,  which  exists 
only  a  single  day ;  but  as  if  to  compensate  for  its  transient 
visit,  each  plant  will  produce  a  number  of  flowers  ;  and 
where  a  bed  of  them  can  be  collected,  they  will  amuse  their 
admirers  for  several  weeks  from  July  to  September.  In  such 
case  the  bulbs  may  be  planted  about  two  inches  deep,  say 
nine  by  fifteen  inches  apart,  toward  the  end  of  April,  or  early 
in  May,  and  taken  up  again  in  October,  to  preserve  for  plant- 
ing the  ensuing  year. 


94 

OBSERVATIONS 

ON 

THE  CULTURE  OF  BULBOUS  ROOTS, 

IN  POTS  OR  GLASSES,  IN  THE  WINTER  SEASON. 


The  culture  of  bulbous  roots  in  a  green-house,  or  light 
room,  during  the  winter,  is  comparatively  easy,  provide^d 
two  points  be  attended  to  :  the  first  is  to  keep  them  near  the 
light,  and  turn  the  pots  or  glasses  round  frequently,  to  prevent 
their  growing  crowded ;  and  the  second  is,  when  the  plants 
have  done  growing,  to  give  them  little  or  no  water;  for 
want  of  attention  to  these  points,  bulbs  have  been  known  to 
produce  foliage  year  after  year,  without  showing  any  sign 
of  blossoms. 

All  bulbs,  at  a  certain  period  of  the  year,  are  in  a  dor- 
mant condition  ;  this,  in  a  state  of  nature,  is  invariably  after 
the  seed  has  lipened  ;  but  as,  in  a  green-house,  many  of  this 
family  do  not  ri})en  seed,  the  cultivator  should  watch  the 
period  when  the  leaves  show  indications  of  decay  ;  at  which 
time,  the  supphes  of  water  should  be  lessened,  and  shortly 
afterward  the  earth  should  be  suffered  to  get  dry,  and  remain 
80  until  the  season  returns  when  the  bulbs  re-germinate. 

Many  sorts  of  bulbs  will  keep  best  in  pots,  under  the  soil, 
in  a  dry,  shady  place,  and  in  the  same  temperature  as  that 
in  which  they  are  in  the  habit  of  growing ;  but  others,  such 
as  the  Hyacinth,  TuHp,  Narcissus,  &c.,  may  be  taken  out  of 
the  soil,  and  preserved  as  before  directed,  until  the  return 
of  the  proper  season  for  replanting. 

Dutch  bulbous  roots  intended  for  blooming  in  pots  during 
the  winter  season  should  be  planted  during  the  months  oi 


CULTURE  OP  BULBOUS  ROOTS  IN  ROOMS.         95 

October  and  November,  and  be  left  in  the  open  air  until  it 
begins  to  freeze  ;  and  then  be  placed  in  the  green-house,  or  in 
a  room,  exposed  to  the  sun.  They  will  need  occasional  mo- 
derate waterings  until  they  begin  to  grow ;  then  they  should 
have  abundance  of  air  in  mild  weather,  and  plenty  of  water 
from  the  saucers  underneath  the  pots,  while  in  a  growing 
state  ;  and  should  be  exposed  as  much  as  possible  to  the  sun, 
air,  and  light,  to  prevent  the  foliage  from  growing  too  long,  or 
becoming  yellow. 

P"'or  this  purpose,  single  Hyacinths,  and  such  as  are  desig- 
nated earliest  among  the  double,  are  to  be  preferred.  Sin- 
gle Hyacinths  are  by  some  held  in  less  esteem  than  double 
ones;  their  colours,  however,  are  more  vivid,  and  their  bells, 
though  smaller,  aie  more  luimevous ;  some  of  the  finer  sorts 
are  exquisitely  beautiful  ;  they  are  preferable  for  flowering 
in  winter  to  most  of  the  double  ones,  as  they  bloom  two  or 
three  weeks  earlier,  and  are  very  sweet-scented.  Roman 
Narcissus,  double  Jonquils,  Polyanthus  Narcissus,  double 
Narcissus,  and  Crocuses,  also  make  a  fine  appearance  in 
the  parlour  during  winter.  It  is  a  remarkable  circumstance 
of  the  Crocus,  that  it  keeps  its  petals  expanded  during  tole- 
rably bright  candle  or  lamp  light,  in  the  same  manner  as 
it  does  during  the  light  of  the  sun.  If  the  candle  be  removed, 
the  Crocus  closes  its  petals,  as  it  does  in  a  garden  when  a 
cloud  obscures  the  sun ;  and  when  the  artificial  light  ia 
restored,  they  open  again,  as  they  do  with  the  return  of  the 
direct  solar  rays. 

Hyacinths  and  other  bulbs  intended  for  glasses  should  be 
placed  in  them  about  the  middle  of  November,  the  glasses 
being  previously  filled  with  pure  water,  so  that  the  bottom 
of  the  bulb  may  just  touch  the  water ;  then  place  them  for 
the  first  ten  days  in  a  dark  room,  to  promote  the  shooting  of 
the  roots ;  after  which  expose  them  to  the  light  and  sun  as 
much  as  possible ;  they  will  blossom  without  the  aid  of  the 
6un,  but  the  colours  of  the  flowers  will  be  inferior.  The 
water  should  be  changed  as  often  as  it  becomes  impure ; 


96        CULTURE  OF  BULBOUS  ROOTS  IN  ROOMS. 

draw  the  roots  entirely  out  of  the  glasses,  rinse  the  fibres  in 
clean  water,  and  also  the  glasses  inside  ;  care  should  be 
taken  not  to  suffer  the  water  to  freeze,  as  it  not  only  bursts 
the  glasses,  but  often  causes  the  fibres  to  decay.  Whether 
the  water  be  hard  or  soft,  is  of  no  great  consequence ;  but 
soft,  or  rain  water,  is  generally  preferred,  and  it  must  be 
perfectly  clear. 

Forced  bulbs  are  seldom  good  for  any  thing  afterward ; 
however,  those  who  wish  to  preserve  them,  may  immerse 
them  wholly  in  water  for  a  few  days ;  and  then,  having 
taken  them  out,  and  dried  them  in  the  shade  for  a  short 
time,  they  may  be  planted  in  a  good  soil,  in  the  garden,  where 
they  will  sometimes  flower  the  next  year.  It  does  not 
cleai'ly  appear  in  what  way  the  water  operates  when  the 
bulb  is  wholly  immersed ;  but  it  is  certain  that  bulbs  so 
treated  increase  in  size  and  solidity,  and  have  an  incompara- 
bly better  chance  of  flowering  the  second  year,  than  those 
which  have  not  been  so  treated  ;  most  probably  their  total 
immersion  enables  them  to  obtain  a  greater  proportion  of 
oxygen  from  the  water. 

Nosegays  should  have  the  water  in  which  their  ends  are 
inserted  changed,  on  the  same  principal  as  bulbous  roots; 
and  a  much  faded  nosegay,  if  not  dried  up,  may  often  be 
recovered  for  a  time,  by  covering  it  with  a  glass  bell,  or  cup, 
or  by  substituting  salt  water  for  fresh. 

Very  fine  Hyacinths  have  been  grown  in  a  drawing-room, 
in  the  following  novel  manner.  A  quantity  of  moss,  classi- 
cally called  hypmim,  and  vulgarly  fog,  was  placed  in  a  water- 
tight box,  about  eight  or  nine  inches  deep,  into  which  the 
bulbs  were  placed,  at  the  end  of  September,  without  mould, 
and  duly  watered ;  the  result  of  this  experiment  was  highly 
favourable. 


97 


OBSERVATIONS 


GENERAL  MANAGEMENT  OF  GREEN-HOUSE 
PLANTS. 


Having  already  exceeded  my  limits,  I  am  compelled  to  be 
biief  in  my  observations  on  such  ornamental  plants  as  are 
generally  cultivated  in  hot  and  green-houses.  This  descrip- 
tion of  plants  embraces  those  which  are  collected  from  vari- 
ous climates,  and  thrive  best  in  a  temperature  and  soil  simi- 
lar to  that  in  which  nature  first  pi'oduced  them  :  hence  those 
who  propagate  exotic  plants  must  provide  suitable  composts, 
and  also  separate  departments,  where  the  different  degrees 
of  heat  may  be  kept  up,  according  to  their  nature  and 
description.  Some  of  these  are  raised  from  seed  sown  in 
the  spring,  others  by  layers,  suckers,  and  offsets  detached 
from  the  old  plants,  and  many  by  slips  or  cuttings,  planted 
at  different  seasons  of  the  year,  according  to  their  various 
natures  and  state  of  the  plants.  IMany  kinds  require  the  aid 
of  glass  coverings  and  bottom  heat,  created  by  fresh  horse 
dung,  tan,  &c.     [See  Calendar  and  Index.] 

Were  I  to  attempt  to  give  directions  for  the  propagation 
of  all  the  varieties  of  useful  and  ornamental  exotic  plants 
cultivated  in  various  jiarts  of  our  country,  it  would  require 
several  volumes.  The  catalogue  of  green-house  plants  alone, 
kept  by  the  enterprising  proprietor  of  the  Linnaean  Botanic 
Garden,  at  Flushing,  occupies  fifty  pages  of  close  matter  ; 
it  would,  therefore,  be  impossible  to  do  justice  to  the  subject 
without  dividing  upward  of  two  thousand  species  of  plants 
into  classes,  and  treating  of  them  under  distinct  heads  ;  I 
shall,  therefore,  not  attempt  in  this  edition  to  write  largely 
on  the  subject. 

9 


98  MANAGEMENT    OF    GREEN-HOUSE    PLANTS. 

In  order  to  render  this  work  useful  to  those  who  may  wish 
to  avail  themselves  of  the  pleasure  of  nursing  some  of  those 
beauties  of  nature  in  dwelling  or  green-houses  during  the 
most  chilling  days  of  our  severe  winters,  and  to  afford 
amusement  to  the  ladies  at  a  season  when  our  gardens  are 
deprived  of  their  lovhest  charms,  I  shall  notice  some  essen- 
tial points  connected  with  the  management  of  green-house 
plants  in  as  explicit  a  manner  as  possible,  and  subjoin  a  brief 
catalogue  of  such  species  as  are  most  generally  cultivated, 
of  which  tliere  are  innumeiable  varieties  ;  descriptions  of 
which,  with  all  the  varied  features  of  the  floral  kingdom, 
may  be  found  in  the  voluminous  works  of  Loudon,  Sweet, 
Chandler,  and  other  English  writers.* 

The  generality  of  those  denominated  green-house  plants, 
and  which  are  kept  in  rooms,  should  be  placed  where  they 
can  have  the  light  of  the  sun,  without  being  exposed  to 
frost.  Air,  heat,  and  moisture  are  essential  to  the  growth 
of  plants;  but  these  should  be  given  in  due  proportions, 
according  to  circumstances.     In  frosty  weather  they  should 


•  All  the  most  popular  English  books  on  this  subject,  are  imported  by 
G.  C.  Thorburn,  No.  15  John  street,  among  which  are  the  following  : 

'  Loudon's  Enc3'clopnedia  of  Plants,'  illustrated  by  engravings  and  with 
figures  of  nearly  ten  thousand  species,  exemplifying  several  individuals 
belonging  to  every  genus  included  in  the  work.  Completed  in  one  large 
Tolume,  8vo  — §20. 

'  Loudon'"*  Kncyclopsedia  of  Gardening,'  comprising  the  Theory  and 
Practice  of  Horticulture,  Floriculture,  Arboriculture,  and  Landscape  Gar- 
dening ;  including  all  the  latest  improvements.  A  new  edition,  in  one 
large  volume,  Svo.,  closely  printed,  with  upward  of  700  engravings. — $12. 

'Chandler  (of  London)  on  the  Camellia;'  containing  ample  directions 
for  the  cultivation  of  this  fine  plant,  with  a  superb  plate  of  all  the  present 
known  varieties  in  England.     1  vol.  4to. — $45. 

'  Hortus  Brittanicus  ;'  a  Catalogue  of  Plants  cultivated  in  the  gardens 
of  fireat  Britain,  arranged  in  natural  orders. — $6. 

'  The  British  Klower  Garden  ;'  containing  coloured  figures,  and  descrip- 
tions of  all  the  most  ornamental  and  curious  plants  ;  with  their  scientific 
and  English  name« ;  best  method  of  cultivation  and  propagation  ;  the 
heights  they  generally  attain  ;  or  any  other  information  respecting  them, 
that  may  be  considered  usetul  or  interesting.  By  R.  Sweet,  F.  L.  S.,  &c.  ; 
the  drawings  by  E.  D.  Smith,  F.  L.  S.  In  5  vols  ,  8vo.,  calf,  and  continued 
in  monthly  numberi.     A  splendid  work. — $100. 


MANAGEMENT    OF    GREEN-HOUSE    PLANTS.  99 

be  kept  from  the  external  air,  and  watered  very  sparingly. 
When  water  is  necessary,  it  should  be  applied  in  the  morn- 
ing of  a  mild  sunny  day.  The  plants  should  be  kept  free 
from  decayed  leaves,  and  the  earth  at  the  top  of  the  pota 
should  be  sometimes  loosened  to  a  moderate  depth,  and 
replenished  with  a  portion  of  rich  compost. 

Plants  kept  in  private  houses  are  often  killed  with  kind- 
ness. The  temperature  of  a  room  in  winter  need  not  be 
more  than  ten  degrees  above  freezing.  If  plants  are  healthy, 
they  may  be  kept  so  by  attention  to  the  preceding  hints ; 
unhealthiness  generally  arises  from  their  being  subjected  to 
the  extremes  of  heat,  cold,  or  moisture,  or  from  total  neg- 
lect.* 

In  order  that  the  ideas  above  advanced  may  be  duly  con- 
sidered, it  may  be  useful  to  indulge  in  a  more  minute  de- 
scription of  the  nature  of  plants,  and  to  show  in  what  man- 
ner the  elements  operate  upon  them.  It  is  an  acknowledged 
fact,  that  the  roots  of  plants  require  moisture,  and  therefore 
penetrate  the  earth  in  search  of  it,  and  that  the  plants  them- 
selves are  greatly  nourished  by  air,  and  spread  their  branches 
and  leaves  to  catch  as  much  as  possible  its  enlivening  influ- 
ence. Light  also  is  so  far  essential,  that  there  can  be  no 
colour  without  it ;  witness  the  blanching  of  celery  and  en- 
dive, where  the  parts  deprived  of  light  become  white  ;  place 

•  An  amateur  florist  of  this  city  has  suggested  the  following  hints  in 
regard  to  the  manasemcnt  of  plants  in  rooms.  He  says  that  he  keeps  his 
plants  in  a  room,  the  windows  of  which,  having  a  southern  exposure,  will 
admit  the  sun  all  day.  The  plants  are  placed  on  a  table  with  rollers  at- 
tached to  the  legs,  which  in  moderate  weather  is  kept  as  near  to  the  glass 
as  possible.  In  cold  weather  he  removes  the  table  into  the  middle  of  the 
room,  and  places  a  pail  of  water  near  the  plants  to  attract  the  frost.  Ha 
considers  it  a  great  mistake  to  suppose  that  plants  kept  in  warm  rooms  re- 
quire much  fire  heat,  on  the  contrary,  he  contends,  that  a  moderate  degree 
of  cold  will  agree  with  plants  much  better  than  a  very  high  temperature. 
He,  however,  considers  it  needless  to  attempt  to  keep  plants  in  a  cold 
room,  the  windows  of  which  face  the  north.  A  southeastern,  or  even 
eastern  exposure  may  answer  without  any  fire,  except  in  very  cold  wea- 
ther. It  may  be  observed,  farther,  that  excessive  moisture  injures  plants 
more  than  drouglit,  and  that  plants  in  general  do  not  require  water  while 
the  surface  of  the  earth  in  the  pots  is  moist. 


100  MANAGEMENT    OF    GREEN-HOUSE    PLANTS. 

a  plant  in  almost  any  situation,  it  will  invariably  show  a  ten- 
dency to  turn  to  the  light;  the  sunflower  is  a  sti  iking  exam- 
ple of  this  singular  fact.  As  the  leaves  supply  the  plant 
with  air,  and  the  fibres  of  the  roots  with  nouiishment,  to 
strip  off  the  leaves  or  destroy  the  fibres  is  to  deprive  it  of 
part  of  its  means  of  support. 

Having  shown  that  air  and  water  are  essential  to  vege- 
tation, and  light  to  its  colour,  experience  shows  us  that 
heat,  in  a  greater  or  less  degree,  is  not  less  necessary  to 
the  growth  of  plants ;  it  is  therefore  requisite,  that  in 
taking  plants  into  our  rooms,  we  should  attend  to  these  par- 
ticulars. 

The  internal  structure  of  plants  consists  of  minute  and 
imperceptible  pores,  which  serve  the  same  important  pur- 
pose in  the  vegetable,  as  veins  in  the  animal,  system ;  they 
are  the  medium  of  the  circulation  of  the  sap  in  the  former, 
as  the  veins  ai'e  of  the  blood  in  the  latter ;  but  it  is  by  no 
means  settled  as  yet  by  physiologists  how  the  food  of  plants 
is  taken  up  into  the  system,  and  converted  into  their  con- 
stituent parts. 

From  the  foregoing  considerations  and  facts,  it  is  evident, 
that,  as  air,  heat,  and  moisture  are  each  essential  to  vegeta- 
tion, water  should  only  be  given  in  proportion  as  heat  and 
air  are  attainable.  In  the  summer  season,  green-house 
plants  may  be  exposed  to  the  open  air,  from  the  early  part 
of  May  until  the  end  of  September,  by  being  placed  on  the 
ledges  of  windows,  or  on  a  stand  erected  for  the  purpose, 
or,  in  the  absence  of  a  nursery  bed  of  flowering  plants,  they 
may  be  introduced  into  the  regular  flower-beds,  to  supply 
the  place  of  such  plants  as  may  wither  and  die  in  the  course 
of  the  summer,  by  being  turned  out  of  the  pots  and  planted, 
or  plunged  in  the  earth  with  the  pots. 

In  the  heat  of  the  summer  season,  plants  generally  re- 
quire water  every  evening,  and  in  the  absence  of  dews,  the 
earth  about  their  roots  may  sometimes  need  a  little  in  the 
morning;  but  experience  shows,  that  the  roots  of  plants 


MANAGEMENT    OF    GREEN-HOITSE    PLANTS.  101 

more  frequently  get  injured  from  being  soddened  with  wa- 
ter, than  from  being  kept  moderately  dry. 

Having  before  intimated  that  exotic  plants  will  generally 
thrive  best  in  a  temperature  and  soil  similar  to  that  in  which 
nature  first  produced  them,  it  may  be  necessary  to  remind 
the  reader,  that  we  have  the  means  of  obtaining  suitable 
composts  from  our  own  soils,  and  from  sand,  decayed  leaves, 
rotten  dung,  and  various  kinds  of  peat,  bog,  and  rock  mould  ; 
these  ingredients  being  judiciously  mixed  and  prepared, 
may  be  suited  to  all  the  various  kinds  of  plants,  and  should 
be  used  as  occasion  requires. 

As  the  roots  of  plants  make  considerable  growth  in  the 
course  of  a  summer,  it  will  be  necessary  to  examine  them 
by  turning  them  out  of  the  pots ;  this  may  be  done  in  the 
latter  part  of  August  or  early  in  September,  at  which  time 
all  matted  and  decayed  roots  should  be  pared  off,  and  the 
plants  shifted  into  larger  pots,  which  being  filled  with  suita- 
ble compost,  and  watered,  will  be  ready  for  removal  into  the 
house  on  the  approach  of  cold  nights,  which  is  generally 
early  in  October. 

Green-house  plants  require  an  annual  pruning,  and  should 
be  occasionally  beaded  down,  in  order  that  their  size  and 
appearance  may  be  improved ;  the  best  time  for  doing  this 
is  soon  after  they  have  done  flowering,  and  while  they  are 
in  a  growing  state. 

Having  endeavoured  to  furnish  my  readers  with  the  arti- 
ficial means  of  preserving  tender  plants  in  a  climate  foreign 
to  that  in  which  nature  first  produced  them,  I  shall  call  their 
attention  to  another  class  of  plants  well  calculated  for  the 
windows  of  a  house. 

I  allude  to  the  many  beautiful  varieties  of  the  Chinese 
Chrysanthemum ;  these  are  frequently  cultivated  in  pots, 
and  may  be  taken  from  the  ground  and  put  into  pots,  even. 
when  in  full  flower,  without  injury,  and  when  the  bloom  is 
over,  returned  to  the  garden.  In  the  spring  following  they 
will  throw  up  an  abundance  of  suckers. 


102 


CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 


The  following  list  contains  some  of  the  best  varieties  of 
the  Chrysanthemum,  and  are  entitled  to  a  place  in  every 
flower  garden.  In  October  and  November,  when  the  wan- 
ing year  has  left  our  gardens  comparatively  cheerless,  these, 
with  their  various  colours,  deck  them  out  in  gayety,  and  pro- 
long the  semblance  of  summer.  They  are  perfectly  hardy, 
and  will  brave  our  severest  winters. 


The  gold  bordered  red  : 
the  petals  are  red, 
striped  with,  golden 
yellow. 

White  q\iilled. 

Pale  buir,  or  orange. 

Changeable,  red  and 
ora)if;e  on  same  plant. 

Lilac  quilled. 

Rose-coloured,  or  pink. 

Lilac  and  white,  change- 
able, the  flowfrs  vary 
to  lilac,  to  white  ivith 
a  purple  centre,  and 
to  pure  white. 

Dark  crimson,  or  Span 
ish  brown. 

Straw  coloured  quilled. 

Golden  yellow. 

Tasselled  white. 


Semi-double  quilled  do. 
Paper  white. 
Quilled  light  purple. 
Expanded  do.  do. 
Quilled  yellow. 
Double  Indian  yellow. 
Double  Indian  white. 
Dark  purple. 
Karly  blush. 
Golden  Lotus, 
iuilled  purple. 
Starry  purple. 
I'ark's  small  yellow, ^?je 
Quilled  salmon. 
Semi-double  quilled. 
Pale  oranae. 
Two-coloured  red. 
Curled  butf,  or  salmon. 
Large  lilac. 
Late  pale  purple. 


Quilled  fine  yellow. 

Sulphur  do. 

■Superb  clustered  do. 

■^niall  do. 

<ingle  flame  yellow. 

Quilled  pink. 

Quilled  orange. 

Karly  crimson. 

Curled  lilac. 

Two-coloured  incurved. 

Blush  ranunculus. 

Late  quilled  purple. 

Tasselled  lilac. 

Tasselled  yellow. 

Yellow  waratah. 

Pale  lilac. 

Large  butT,  superb. 

Barclay's. 

Alton's. 

Sabine's. 


ChrysanthemuiTis  may  be  propagated  from  hardy  cut- 
tings, and  each  plant  wiil  produce  several  suckers,  which 
may  be  separated  every  spring.  As  the  flowers  are  liable 
to  be  injured  by  the  rain  in  autumn,  it  is  advisable  to  take 
up  a  few  plants,  and  place  them  in  a  light  room  or  green- 
house, which  will  preserve  them  for  some  time. 

Many  people  keep  their  late  blooming  plants  in  the  house 
through  the  winter ;  this  is  a  bad  practice,  as  the  heat  and 
want  of  air  will  exhaust  or  destroy  the  plants  altogether.  l! 
the  flowers  fade  before  hard  frost  prevails,  it  is  best  either  to 
plunge  the  pots  into  the  ground  with  the  plants,  or  to  turn 
them  out  of  the  pots  and  plant  them,  with  the  balls  of  earth 
entire,  into  the  borders  of  the  flower  garden. 

Early  in  INIay,  such  as  may  be  intended  for  potting  the 
ensuing  season  should  be  divided  at  the-  roots,  if  not  potted. 


CATALOGUE  OF  GREEN-HOUSE  PLANTS.        103 

and  planted,  each  kind  by  itself.  One  single  stem  is  suffi- 
cient for  a  moderate  sized  pot,  if  the  object  be  to  have  bushy 
plants ;  but  if  showy  plants  are  desired,  one  of  each  of  the 
varied  colours  may  be  selected  for  each  pot,  which  should  be 
sufficiently  capacious  to  hold  them  without  crowdin.o-  them, 
as  this  will  cause  the  plants  to  grow  weak  and  slender.  If 
such  happens  early  in  the  summer,  a  stocky  growth  may  be 
produced  by  clipping  the  tops,  and  they  will  bloom  in  great 
perfection  in  their  usual  season. 


INTRODUCTION   TO   THE   CATALOGUE   OF 
GREEN-HOUSE  PLANTS. 

To  promote  brevity  and  avoid  tautology,  I  here  submit 
the  following  statement : 

That  the  directions  accompanying  our  catalogue  of  An- 
nual, Biennial,  and  Perennial  Flower  Seed,  will  apply  to 
such  plants  in  the  green-house  department  as  are  ordinarily 
raised  from  seed. 

That  the  directions  annexed  to  the  catalogue  of  Flower- 
ing and  Ornamental  Slirubs,  including  propagation  by  cut- 
tings, layers,  &c.,  are  applicable  to  a  great  portion  of  the 
plants  hereinafter  described,  and  that  the  exceptions  are 
shown  in  the  monthly  calendar. 

That  such  Bulbous  roots  as  are  generally  embraced  in 
gi-een-house  catalogues,  from  their  being  adapted  to  artificial 
culture,  have  been  already  treated  of,  under  each  head,  in 
numerous  articles ;  to  which  the  reader  is  referred. 

That,  with  the  exception  of  hot-house  plants,  which  re- 
quire a  uniformly  warm  climate  to  perpetuate  their  exis- 
tence, all  such  other  tender  and  half-hardy  plants  as  need 
protection  in  winter,  may  come  under  the  denomination  of 
green-house  plants ;  some  species  however,  may,  notwith- 
standing, be  preserved  in  frames,  pits,  cellars,  or  warm 
rooms. 


104        CATALOGUE  OF  GREEN-HOUSE  PLANTS. 

That  many  of  those  species  designated  thus  §  and  thus  t 
in  our  first  two  catalogues,  are  of  such  description ;  and  as 
they  have  been  treated  of  in  the  chapters  thereto  annexed, 
the  following  catalogue  and  explication  will  be  necessarily 
brief,  when  compared  with  one  general  catalogue  of  exotic 
plants. 


DESCRIPTIVE  CATALOGUE. 

Acacia.  Of  this  and  the  Mimosa,  which  are  by  some  con- 
sidered as  one  genus,  there  are  upward  of  a  hundred  spe- 
cies and  varieties,  suited  for  artificial  culture.  The  blossoms, 
■which  are  generally  straw  colour  and  yellow,  except  the  most 
tender,  some  of  which  are  crimson,  succeed  each  other  from 
February  to  June. 

Agapanthus.  A  beautiful  species  of  Lily,  producing  large 
blue  flowers  from  April  to  June  ;  some  varieties  have  striped 
leaves  and  delicate  white  blossoms. 

Aloe.  Of  this  genus  there  are  numerous  species  and  va- 
rieties, some  of  which  are  very  curious,  being  possessed  of 
all  the  varied  forms  and  figures  peculiar  to  succulent  plants. 
Some  species  flower  annually  from  March  to  September, 
and  all,  except  the  Century  Aloe,  blossom  frequently ;  the 
colours  are  generally  yellow,  pink,  and  red.  The  singular 
figure  and  habits  of  these  plants  render  them  desirable  for 
green-house  culture. 

Alstrcumeria.  Of  this  genus  of  plants  there  are  several 
species,  which  have  tuberous  roots.  The  flowers  of  the  va- 
rieties are  of  different  shades,  as  rose  coloured,  scarlet,  yel- 
low, red,  &:c. ;  and  some  are  variegated,  as  the  Alstrameria 
psittacina,  which  is  red,  yellow,  and  green,  and  the  A.  tri- 
color, which  is  black,  white,  and  yellow.  They  are  beauti- 
ful plants  when  kept  in  good  order. 

Arbutus,  European  Strawberiy  Tree.  A  half-hardy  ever- 
green shrub,  of  which  there  are  several  species  and  varie- 


CATALOGUE  OF  GREEN-HOUSE  PLANTS.         105 

ties,  producing  crimson  and  pink  blossoms,  and  fruit  which 
remain  on  the  plant  a  considerable  time. 

Ardesia,  Chinese  Ardesia.  This  is  generally  cultivated 
as  a  hot-house  plant ;  and  if  kept  in  the  green-house,  should 
be  placed  in  a  warm  situation.  There  are  several  species, 
producing  oblong  shining  leaves,  pink  flowers,  and  red  ber- 
ries, which  are  very  ornamental. 

Aster  argophylhis,  Musk  Plant.  A  plant  of  no  great 
beauty,  but  esteemed  by  some  for  its  musky  fragrance; 
leaves  ovate,  lanceolate,  and  silky  beneath. 

Aucuba  Japonica.  A  half-hardy  shrub,  with  pale  green 
leaves  spotted  with  yellow.  It  produces  small  purple  blos- 
soms, but  is  desirable  for  its  foliage  only  :  to  preserve  which 
in  good  condition,  shade  in  the  summer  is  absolutely  ne- 
cessary. 

Azalea.  The  Chinese  species  of  Azalea  are  numerous 
and  beautiful,  producing  blossoms  of  various  hues,  as  white, 
purjjle,  scarlet,  yellow,  &:c.,  and  some  are  striped  and  spot- 
ted, which  succeed  each  other  from  February  to  May,  under 
good  cultivation.* 

Banksia.  A  genus  of  plants  named  in  honour  of  Sir 
Joseph  Banks,  of  which  there  are  over  twenty  species,  all 
curious  in  flower,  and  variable  in  foliage  ;  colours,  yellow 
and  green.     They  genei'ally  blossom  from  May  to  August. 

Beaufortia.  There  are  two  species  of  this  beautiful  shrub, 
yielding  scarlet  and  pink  flowers  from  the  sides  of  their 
Stalks,  from  May  to  July. 

Bellis  ptrennis.  Daisy.  This  half-hardy  dwarf  species,  of 
which  there  are  several  varieties,  as  recorded  in  our  Peren- 
nial Catalogue,  are  worthy  of  fajther  notice,  from  their  yield- 

*  A  skilful  florist,  Mr.  William  Russell,  has  some  liybrids  which  he 
raised,  by  crosses  between  the  dillerent  species  of  Azaleas  and  Rhododen- 
drons, both  of  the  hardy  and  choicest  green-house  varieties.  He  has 
already  flowered  several  plants  which  partake  of  the  Rhododendron  in 
the  umbels,  and  embrace  all  the  good  qualities  of  the  Azalea.  He  intends 
to  propagate  these  rare  plants  for  sale,  at  his  establishment,  in  Brooklyn, 
Long  Island. 


106  CATALOGUE  OF  GREEN-HOUSE  PLANTS. 

ing  thousands  of  button-formed  flowers  from  January  to  July, 
or  until  checked  by  the  summer  heat,  from  which  they  should 
be  screened,  by  being  planted  in  a  shaded  border  in  the 
spring.  The  colours  are  white,  red,  and  variegated,  and 
Bome,  called  Hen  and  Chicken  Daisies,  giow  in  clusters. 

Bletia  Tankervilli.     A  delicate  plant,  producing  spikes  of 
purple  flowers,  similar  to  the  Hyacinth,  fi'om  April  to  July. 
Bouvardia.     Mexican  Bouvardia.     A  beautiful  plant,  pro- 
ducing brilliant  scarlet  flowers  from  May  to  September,  when 
carefully  cultivated. 

Baronia.  There  are  several  species  of  this  plant,  natives 
of  New  Holland ;  the  flowers  of  some  are  star-like,  rose- 
coloured,  and  sweet-scented  ;  in  perfection  in  April  and  ISIay. 
Brunia.  This  species  of  plants  have  foliage  similar  to  the 
Erica,  but  the  leaves  are  three-cornered ;  the  plants  when 
young  are  very  handsome.  Brunia  nodiflora  produces  chaste 
white  globular  flowers  in  abundance.  There  are  several  other 
varieties  highly  esteemed  by  amateurs. 

Bntnsvigia  Josephince,  This  cape  bulb  produces  splendid 
rose-coloured  flowers  in  large  umbels,  on  a  stem  about  two 
feet  high.  There  are  several  other  species,  some  of  which 
produce  scarlet,  others  purple,  and  variegated  blossoms,  in 
perfection,  when  cultivated  in  a  warm  green-house. 

Buddha  madagascariensis.  This  plant,  when  properly 
cultivated,  will  blossom  freely  during  winter,  proaucmg 
spikes  of  orange-coloured  flowers,  of  an  agreeable  fragrance. 
Buonaparteajuncea.  This  is  a  curious  low-giowing  plant, 
•with  long  narrow  leaves,  and  spikes  of  small  blue  flowers, 
which,  when  cultivated  in  a  warm  situation,  will  continue 
sometime  in  bloom. 

Burchellia.  A  dwarf  evergreen  shrub,  producing  orange- 
coloured  flowers  in  large  terminal  clusters,  from  March  to 
June. 

Cactus.  Of  this  family  of  plants  there  are  numeious 
species,  supposed  to  be  of  different  genera,  from  the  varia- 
tion of  their  character  and  habits.     Some  are  denominated 


CATALOGUE  OF  GREEN-HOTJSE  PLANTS.         107 

Cereus,  others  Epiphylhnns,  MamUlarias,  etc.  The  night 
blooming  Ceveiis  is  much  celebrated.  They  all  belong  to  the 
hot-house,  but  succeed  well  in  a  warm  room  or  good  green- 
house. Some  are  formed  into  erect  pyramids,  others  are  of 
a  trailing  habit ;  and  all  produce  from  the  sides  of  their  suc- 
culent stalks  and  leaves,  beautiful  cnmson,  scarlet,  white,  or 
pink  flowers,  from  March  to  August. 

Calceolaria  Of  this  species  of  delicate  dwarf  plants, 
there  are  several  splendid  varieties  annually  raised  from 
seed ;  producing  red,  yellow,  and  orange-coloured  flowers 
from  April  to  August,  when  shaded  from  the  noonday  sun ; 
they  will  otherwise  suffer  from  heat. 

Calothcimnus.  A  beautiful  evergreen  shrub,  similar  to  a 
dwarf  pine,  producing  scarlet  blossoms  from  the  old  wood, 
from  April  to  November. 

Callicoma  serraiifolia.  A  beautiful  plant,  producing  tufted 
yellow  heads  of  flowers  from  May  to  July. 

Camellia.  Of  this  admired  winter-blooming  genus  of 
plants,  there  are  several  distinct  species,  the  varieties  from 
many  of  which  multiply  annually.  Its  durable  glossy  foliage, 
and  splendid  flowers,  which  excel  those  of  any  other  plant, 
will  insure  it  a  pre-eminence  in  every  green -house  ;  as  in 
good  collections,  flowers  of  various  hues  may  be  gathered 
from  October  to  May. 

Cheiranthus.  Under  this  title  have  been  generally  em- 
braced all  those  fragrant  and  beautiful  half-hardy  species  of 
Biennial  Plants  known  as  Wall  and  Gilly  Flowers ;  the  lat- 
ter  species  is  now,  however,  denominated  Mathiola  in  our 
catalogues.  The  beautiful  blossoms  and  delicious  fragrance 
of  these  families,  from  February  to  June,  entitle  them  to 
more  than  a  passing  notice.  Their  perfumes  are  exquisite. 
Ci7ieravia  cruenta.  Canary  Aster.  A  dwarf  half-shrubby 
plant,  producing  purple  flowers  in  April  and  May. 

Cineraria  maritima.  Silvery-leaved  Ragwort,  or  Powdered 
Beau.  A  white  plant,  producing  bright  yellow  globular 
flowers  from  April  to  June  or  July. 


108         CATALOGUE  OF  GREEN-HOUSE  PLANTS. 

Cishis.  Rock  Rose.  A  half-hardy  dwarf  shrub,  of  which 
there  are  upward  of  twenty  species,  natives  of  Europe  ;  the 
flowers,  which  are  white  and  purple,  multiply  abundantly  in 
May  and  June. 

Citrus.  Orange,  Lemon,  &c.  This  genus  embraces  the 
Orange,  Lemon,  Lime,  Shaddock,  &c.,  of  each  of  which 
there  are  several  varieties.  They  are  indispensable  in  a  good 
green-house,  for  their  handsome  evergreen  foliage,  and  odor- 
iferous blossoms,  and  beautiful  golden  fruit,  which  by  careful 
cultivation  may  be  kept  constantly  on  the  plants.  Those 
varieties  with  variegated,  yellow,  and  green  foliage,  are  very 
generally  admired. 

Cleihva  ayborea  variegaia.  A  fine  sweet-scented  shrub, 
producing  spikes  of  white  downy  blossoms ;  the  leaves  are 
oblong  .and  serrated,  having  a  gold-coloured  edge. 

Correa,  A  genus  of  dwarf  shrubby  plants,  consisting  of 
several  species,  producing  their  orange,  white,  red,  and  green 
blossoms  frequently  in  the  winter,  and  sometimes  in  May  or 
June. 

CoroniUa  glanca.  A  desirable  green-house  dwarf  shrub, 
yielding  numerous  sweet-scented  yellow  flowers  in  clusters, 
from  January  to  April.  There  are  other  varieties  which 
blossom  in  summer. 

Cotyledon  orbicidala.  Cape  Navel  wort.  A  succulent  plant, 
producing  finger-like  suckers  and  successional  joints,  which 
blossom  annually ;  the  curiosity  of  the  foliage,  however,  is 
its  chief  recommendation. 

Crcissula.  A  species  of  dwarf  succulent  plants,  producing 
Bcarlet  and  variegated  wax-like  flowers  from  April  to  June 
or  July. 

Crinum  amabile.  A  large  beautiful  flowering  bulb,  of 
which  there  are  several  species,  chiefly  calculated  for  hot- 
house culture,  where  some  varieties  frequently  yield  three 
stems  of  beautiful  crimson,  purple,  or  white  flowers  in  a 
year, 

Cjjpripedmm  insignis.     This  species  is  known  by  the  name 


CATALOGUE  OF  GREEN-HOUSE  PLANTS.  109 

of  Lady's  Slipper  plant ;  the  flowers,  which  are  green  and 
purple,  have  a  waxy  appearance,  and  are  similar  in  shape 
to  an  Indian  shoe.  It  should  be  cultivated  in  a  warm,  moist 
situation. 

Daphne  odora.  A  beautiful  dwarf  evergreen  shrub,  yield- 
ing white  fragrant  blossoms  in  many-flowered  terminal  heads, 
from  December  to  March.  There  are  other  species  and 
varieties,  one  of  which  has  its  leaves  edged  with  yellow. 

Diantlms.  Under  this  name  are  embraced  the  admirable 
Bpecies  of  Carnations,  Picotees,  Pinks,  Sweet  Williams,  &c., 
recorded  in  our  catalogue  of  Perennials  ;  and  which  are  in 
universal  esteem  for  the  fragrance  and  beauty  of  their  flow- 
ers, which  succeed  each  other  from  May  to  August.  They 
are  all  hardy,  except  the  Carnation  and  Picotee  tribes,  which 
are  well  deserving  green-house  or  frame  culture. 

Diosma.  A  dwarf  genus  of  heath-leaved  shrubs,  producing 
numerous  small  flowers  6f  a  white  colour  from  March  to 
May.     Some  of  the  varieties  are  sweet-scented. 

Dryandrus.  To  this  genus  belong  several  species,  similar 
to  the  Bauksias ;  they  are  delicate  plants,  producing  oran"-e 
and  straw  coloured  thistle-like  flowers  in  abundance. 

Echeveria.  This  genus  of  succulent  plants  are  natives  of 
Mexico  and  California.  Some  of  the  species  produce  green 
and  red  blossoms  ;  the  flowers  of  the  variety  piilvendenla  are 
red,  and  the  foliage  is  covered  with  powder,  which  gives  it  a 
beautiful  appearance. 

Epacris.  This  is  a  native  of  New  South  "Wales,  of  which 
there  are  several  species,  mostly  erect-growing  plants,  vary- 
ing from  two  to  four  feet;  the  leaves  are  small,  and  the 
blossoms,  which,  in  different  varieties,  are  crimson,  pink, 
pui-ple,  and  white,  are,  under  good  cultivation,  abundant  irom 
January  to  .June. 

Eraniheinum.  This  species  belong  to  the  hot-house,  and 
will  not  flower  in  perfection  without  plenty  of  heajt.  The 
Eranlhemum  pulchellum  produces  flowers  of  a  fine  blue  colour 
from  December  to  April ;  and  the  Eranthemtim  bicolor  will 

10 


110  CATALOGUE  OF  GREEN-HOUSE  PLANTS. 

yield  purple  and  white  flowers  from  April  to  August,  under 
good  cultivation. 

Erica,  Heath.  Upward  of  five  hundred  species  and  vaiie- 
ties  of  this  plant  are  cultivated  in  Great  Britain,  where  a 
continued  succession  of  bloom  is  kept  up  from  January  to 
December;  the  most  prominent  colours  are  white,  scarlet, 
purple,  yellow,  and  red.  They  are  desirable  2)lants  to  culti- 
vate in  any  country,  as  they  furnish  material  for  the  bouquet 
in  winter,  but  they  must  be  screened  from  the  noonday  sun 
in  summer,  and  only  moderately  watered ;  as  extremes  of 
drouo'ht  or  moisture  are  destructive  to  this  family  of  plants. 

Erylhrina,  Coral  plant.  There  are  several  species  of  this 
plant,  chiefly  adapted  to  the  hot-house,  producing  long  spikes 
of  crimson  or  scarlet  flowers.  Some  keep  them  in  good 
condition  in  a  green-house ;  they  must,  however,  be  well 
attended  to,  and  frequently  re-potted,  which  will  sometimes 
induce  them  to  bloom  two  or  three  times  in  a  year. 

Escalloiiia.  There  are  several  species  of  this  j'lant, 
some  of  which  will  survive  the  winters  of  our  Southern 
States.  When  cultivated  in  a  green-house  as  half-hardy 
shrubs,  they  yield  their  red,  white,  and  pink  flowers  through- 
out a  long  season. 

Enonymiis.  This  plant  is  called  by  some  the  variegated 
Camellia ;  the  flowers  are  not  very  showy,  but  the  silvery 
and  golden  edged  foliage  of  the  different  varieties,  render 
them  very  attractive.     They  are  natives  of  China. 

Euphorbia.  Thei'e  are  several  species  of  this  plant  adapted 
to  the  green-house,  some  of  which  are  beautiful,  especially 
the  E.  splendens,  and  Poinsett's  scarlet,  or  Euphorbia  Poin- 
seili.  They  flower  freely  from  December  to  May,  if  kept  in 
a  warm  part  of  the  house. 

Eiipatorium  elegans.  A  dwarf  plant,  producing  white 
sweet-scented  flowers  early  in  the  spring ;  to  promote  bushi- 
ness,  the  plant,  after  blossoming,  should  be  closely  pruned. 

Eutaxia  myrtifolia.  A  beautiful  little  evergreen  shrub ; 
foliage  small,  but  very  neat,  furnishing  numerous  red  and 


CATALOGUE  OP  GREEN-HOUSE  PLANTS.         Ill 

yellow-colourecl  blossoms  from  March  to  INIay,  under  good 
culture. 

Ficxis  elnsltca,  India-rubber  tree,  and  Ftcus  australis,  are 
both  evergreen  plants,  and  grow  luxuriantly  in  a  green- 
house ;  the  foliage,  which  is  large  and  glossy,  is  pink  on  the 
under  side. 

Ficus,  Fig  Tree.  A  plant  easily  cultivated,  of  which 
there  are  many  species  and  varieties,  which,  kept  in  pots  or 
tubs,  in  a  temperature  adapted  to  the  Orange  tree,  will  fruit 
freely,  and  ripen  two  crops  a  year. 

Fuchsia,  Lady's  Ear-drop.  Of  this  beautiful  shrub  there 
are  several  varieties,  producing  clusters  of  small  scarlet 
flowers,  the  stamens  of  which  are  encircled  with  a  petal  of 
purple ;  in  bloom  from  April  to  September. 

Gardenia,  Cape  Jasmine.  A  very  popular  evergreen 
plant,  producing  white  fragrant  rose-like  flowers  from  May 
to  August.  There  are  several  species  and  varieties,  some 
of  which  are  more  dwarfish  than  others,  hut  all  are  desirable. 

Gelsemium  nilidum,  Carolina  Jasmine.  A  beautiful  climb- 
ing evergreen,  producing  in  the  month  of  May  large  yellow 
tiTimpet-like  blossoms,  of  delicious  fragrance. 

Gloxinia.  A  desirable  herbaceous  plant,  of  which  there 
are  several  varieties,  yielding  beautiful  showy  flowers ; 
colours,  blue,  lilac,  and  white. 

Gnapalinm,  Everlasting  Flower.  Of  this  plant  there  are 
leveral  species  or  varieties,  some  of  which  yield  clusters  of 
yellow  flowers,  and  others  red,  from  March  to  June. 

Gnidia,  Flax-leaved  Gnidia.  A  dwarf  shrub,  of  which 
there  are  several  varieties,  furnishing  pretty  tubular  and 
corymbose  straw-coloured  flowers  in  the  winter  and  spring. 

Grevillea.  There  are  several  species  of  this  evergreen 
dwai-f  shrub,  which  are  very  handsome  in  flower  and  foliage. 
The  flowers  of  some  grow  in  racemose  spikes,  and  of  others 
on  flowering  branches ;  the  colours  are  white,  rose,  green, 
and  straw  or  light  yellow.  They  yield  seed,  and  are  easily 
cultivated. 


112        CATALOGUE  OF  GREEN-HOUSE  PLANTS. 

Heliotropium,  Peruvian  Heliotrope.  A  species  of  soft 
shrubby  dwarf  plants,  which,  when  cultivated  in  a  warm 
situation,  will  yield  abundance  of  delicate  blue  or  purple 
flowers  from  January  to  September. 

Helychrijsnm,  Eternal  Flower.  There  are  several  species 
and  varieties  of  this  plant,  producing  soft  downy  foliage  and 
durable  flowers,  which,  if  cut  before  they  are  too  far  advanced, 
will  retain  their  splendour  several  years. 

Hibbertia.  A  species  of  climbing  evergreen  shrubs,  which 
yield  fine  yellow  flowers  in  succession  from  May  to  Septem- 
ber, under  good  culture. 

Hibiscus  Chinensis.  This  half-hardy  herbaceous  plant  ia 
worthy  of  a  place  in  the  green-house,  as  some  species  will 
yield  flowers  six  inches  in  diameter,  if  well  attended  to  and 
frequently  watered ;  the  colours  are  crimson  and  blush. 

Hovea.  This  is  a  pea-flowering  evergreen  shrub,  of  which 
there  are  several  species,  natives  of  New  South  Wales.  The 
Hovea  celsii  is  a  beautiful  runner,  yielding  numerous  blue 
flowers. 

Hoya,  Wax  Plant.  A  fine  climbing  species,  adapted  to 
the  hot-house  ;  the  leaves  being  succulent,  green,  and  fleshy, 
they  require  considerable  heat  and  but  little  water.  Some 
pix>duce  pink  flowers,  and  others  white,  in  April  and  May. 

Hydranj:ea  hortensis.  The  Hydrangea  is  a  well-known 
deciduous,  half-hardy,  soft-wooded  shrub,  producing  large 
pink  balls  of  blossom,  when  cultivated  in  a  shaded  border, 
from  ISIay  to  October ;  and  by  mixing  iron  dust  from  a 
blacksmith's  shop  with  the  soil,  or  by  growing  the  plants  in 
swamp  earth,  or  mould  from  decayed  leaves,  the  flowers 
will  become  blue. 

Hypericum,  St.  John's  Wort.  A  half-hardy  little  plant, 
producing  yellow  flowers  from  April  to  June.  There  are 
several  species,  some  producing  scarlet  blossoms. 

lUicum,  Aniseed  Tree.  A  dwarf  species  of  shrub,  the 
leaves  of  which,  when  rubbed,  smell  like  anise ;  some  pro- 
duce red,  and  others  yellow  flowers,  in  March  and  April. 


CATALOGUE  OF  GREEN-HOUSE  PLANTS.         113 

Indigofera,  Indigo  Tree.  A  free  floweiing  shrub,  of  which 
there  are  several  species ;  the  flowers,  which  grow  in  long 
pinnacles,  are  red,  yellow,  and  pink. 

Jacarandus.  A  genus  of  evergreen  shrubs,  of  easy  cul- 
ture, containing  five  species,  most  of  which  produce  blue  or 
purple  flowers,  on  loose  branching  pannicles,  in  abundance. 

Jambosa  mdgaris.  This  species  of  evergreen  shrub  is 
generally  called  Rose  Apple,  from  its  producing  rose-scented 
fruit,  which  is  about  an  inch  in  diameter,  and  eatable.  There 
are  several  varieties,  yielding  either  white,  rose,  green,  or 
straw-coloured  flowers  in  erect  spreading  stamens.  They 
are  of  easy  culture. 

Jasminnm,  Jasmine.  Of  this  favourite  genus  there  are 
several  species,  of  various  complexions.  The  Catalonian 
Jasmine,  or  J.  gi-audifiontni,  produces  white  fragrant  blos- 
soms in  winter ;  the  Indian  Jasmine,  or  J.  odoi-alissbmnn, 
and  also  the  J.  revoluium,  yield  very  sweet-scented  yellow 
flowers  from  April  to  June,  and  the  J.  ajjicinale,  a  climbing 
plant,  blossoms  through  the  summer. 

Juslicia.  The  plants  of  this  genus  are  generally  cultiva- 
ted in  the  hot-house ;  some  produce  scarlet  flowers  in  large 
terminale  spikes,  from  December  to  INIarch,  and  others 
purple. 

Kennedia.  A  beautiful  evergreen  climber,  of  which  there 
are  several  species,  producing  blossoms  of  various  hues,  as 
scarlet,  blue,  crimson,  and  purple,  from  February  to  June. 

Lagerstycemia.  A  half-hardy  deciduous  plant,  the  roots 
of  which,  if  planted  in  the  garden  in  INIarch,  will  produce 
large  spikes  of  red  flowers,  from  May  to  August. 

Lantana.  A  genus  of  dwarf  shrubs,  which  beinp-  culti- 
vated in  the  hot-house,  or  a  warm  green-house,  will  yield 
their  blossoms  in  April  and  May ;  the  species  aie  of  va- 
rious colours ;  yellow,  orange,  pink,  white,  purple,  and  va- 
riable. 

Laurus  nohilis,  Laurel.  This  evergreen  shrub  is  by  some 
esteemed  for  its  fragrant  leaves ;  there  are  several  species 

10* 


114        CATALOGUE  OF  GREEX-HOUSE  PLANTS. 

distinguished  as  sweet  bay,  royal  bay,  <Scc.,  and  some  species 
are  without  scent. 

Lavendida,  Lavender.  A  species  of  soft-wooded,  half- 
hardy  plants  with  narrow,  scented  leaves,  yielding  spikes  of 
fragi'ant  blue  flowers  in  May  and  June. 

Lechenauliia  fovmosa.  A  dwarf  plant  with  heath-like 
foliage  and  bright  scarlet  blossoms  ;  in  bloom  a  long  season, 
under  good  culture. 

Leptosperuuim.  This  genus  is  somewhat  celebrated  from 
the  leaves  of  the  species  L.  scopanwn  being  used  by  the 
crew  of  Captain  Cook's  ship  as  a  substitute  for  Tea,  the 
leaves  having  an  agi-eeable  bitter  flavour ;  the  blossoms, 
which  are  small,  are  white. 

Lencadendron,  Silver  Tree.  A  neat  evergreen  shrub  with 
silver-like  foliage,  of  which  there  are  several  species,  all 
admirable  for  their  beauty. 

Linum,  Flax.  Two  species  of  this  plant  are  worthy  of 
cultivation  in  a  green-house,  where  they  will  bloom  in  Feb- 
ruary and  March.  The  Linum  iri^ijuum  produces  large  yel- 
low flowers  in  clusters,  and  Linum  ctscyrifolium  yields  spikes 
of  blue  and  white  flowers,  which  are  similar  to  those  of  the 
Convolvulus. 

Lobelia.  There  are  several  species  of  this  plant,  which 
are  generally  herbaceous ;  they  produce  an  abundance  of 
little  flowers  of  brilliant  colours.  The  Lobelia  crinus  is  a 
pretty  trailing  plant,  yielding  numerous  blue  flowers  all  the 
summer. 

Lychnis  coronala,  Coronet-flowered  Lychnis.  This  half- 
hardy  plant,  embraced  in  our  catalogue  of  Perennials,  is 
worthy  of  protection,  from  its  furnishing  trusses  of  beautiful 
orange  scarlet  flowers,  from  June  to  August.  As  it  yields 
no  seed,  the  roots  should  be  taken  from  the  ground  in 
autumn,  and  returned  the  ensuing  spring. 

Magnolia.  INIost  of  the  species  of  this  justly-admired 
genus  are  hardy,  and  blossom  in  the  summer;  there  are, 
however,  some  of  the  Chinese  varieties,  which,  cultivated 


CATALOGUE  OF  GREEN-HOUSE  PLANTS.         115 

in  a  green-house,  will  produce  their  beautiful  purple,  yel- 
low, and  white  blossoms,  from  January  to  April. 

Melaleucas.  A  beautiful  genus  of  plants,  natives  of  New 
Holland;  the  diveisity  of  their  foliage  and  singularity  of 
flowers,  some  of  which  are  scarlet,  and  shoot  from  the 
wood  like  fringes,  render  them  worthy  of  good  cultiva- 
tion. 

J\Ienettia.  This  is  a  desirable  climber,  of  which  there 
are  several  species  ;  some  produce  variegated  flowers,  others 
bright  scarlet,  and  the  variety  cordijlora  is  curious  as  well 
as  beautiful. 

Mesemhrijanthemxim.  A  genus  of  succulent  plants,  con- 
sisting of  hundreds  of  species  and  varieties,  chiefly  natives 
of  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope.  They  vary  greatly  in  their 
forms,  attitudes,  and  habits  of  growth  ;  some  are  upright, 
others  procumbent ;  some  ai'e  thick,  others  cimeter  or  slen- 
der-leaved. They  are  all  singular,  and  many  of  them  beau- 
tiful. The  colours  of  the  flowers,  which  are  of  every  shade, 
are  great  ornaments  from  May  to  August ;  some  species  and 
varieties  are  ciiltivated  as  annuals  in  the  flower  garden, 
where  they  prove  a  great  acquisition. 

Metrosideros.  A  genus  of  Australasian  shrubs,  some  spe- 
cies of  which  are  willow  and  others  spear-leaved,  producing 
their  cones  of  scarlet  or  white  flowers  from  March  to  May. 

3iijrlus,  ISIyrtle.  A  genus  of  dwarf  evergreen  shrubs, 
of  which  there  are  several  species  and  varieties  ;  the  foliage 
is  chiefly  glossy  and  fragrant,  yielding  numerous  small  flow 
ers.  There  are  some  species  known  as  Cape  Myrtles,  or 
Marsines,  which  also  yield  abundance  of  white  and  purple 
flowers  from  March  to  May. 

JS'andina  domestica,  Japan  Nandina.  A  half-hardy  ever- 
green shrub  ;  leaves  supra-decompound,  with  entire  lanceo- 
late leaflets ;   a  kind  of  foliage  that  is  very  rare. 

JS^ermm,  Oleander.  A  well-known  and  admired  shrub, 
yielding  clusters  of  rose-like  flowers  from  IMay  to  Septem- 
ber.    The  JYeritirn  spUndens  is  the  most  esteemed  of  the  red 


116         CATALOGUE  OF  GREEN-HOUSE  PLANTS. 

varieties ;  the  true  double  white  and  striped  are  very  rare ; 
but  some  of  those  cultivated  for  sale,  producing  semi-double 
flowers,  are  by  no  means  desirable. 

Oka  fragrance,  Dwarf  Olive.  This  variety  of  the  Olive 
recommends  itself  to  notice,  for  its  dwarf  habit  of  growth, 
and  from  the  foliage  and  white  blossoms  being  highly  odo- 
riferous ;  from  March  to  May. 

Passijiora,  Passion  flower.  Of  this  celebrated  genus  of 
climbing  plants,  there  are  several  species  and  varieties, 
which  jjroduce  splendid  flowers  of  various  colours,  red,  blue, 
white,  purple,  scarlet,  &:c.,  beautifully  contrasted,  and  some 
species  yield  fruit.  They  generally  blossom  from  May  to 
September,  and  some  will  flower  in  the  hot-house  in  winter. 

Pelargonmm,  Geranium.  The  species  and  varieties  of 
this  beautiful  genus  is  supposed  to  exceed  a  thousand,  which 
are  of  every  character,  colour,  and  lineament,  and  some  so 
beautifully  blended  as  to  astonish  the  beholder ;  the  agree- 
able fragrance  also,  of  which  many  of  them  are  possessed, 
will  always  render  them  favourites  to  amateur  florists.  The 
best  blooming  season  is  from  April  to  June,  or  July. 

Pittosporum.  A  Chinese  evergreen  shrub,  with  handsome 
glossy  foliage,  yielding  numerous  white  clusters  of  flowers 
in  April  and  May,  which  are  of  delicious  fragrance.  There 
are  several  species,  one  of  which  is  variegated. 

Plumbago  capensis,  Cape  Plumbago.  A  beautiful  dwarf 
plant,  with  oblong  leaves,  yielding  numerous  spikes  of  showy 
blue  flowers  nearly  all  the  summer. 

Polygata  cordati,  Heart-shaped  Polygata.  A  beautiful 
little  plant,  producing  abundance  of  rich  purple  flowers 
nearly  all  the  winter. 

Protea.  A  beautiful  race  of  plants,  the  foliage  of  which 
is  very  diversified,  and  the  flowers  also ;  being  red,  white, 
straw,  brown,  gi-een,  and  purple,  and  most  of  these  colours 
are  frequently  to  be  seen  on  the  same  plant ;  in  flower  from 
March  to  June. 

Primula.     In  this  ffenus  are  embraced  all  the  varieties  of 


CATALOGUE  OP  GREEN-HOUSE  PLANTS.         H7 

the  Primrose,  Polyanthus,  Auricula,  Cowslip,  Oxlip,  &c., 
already  inserted  in  our  Biennial  and  Perennial  catalo"^ues. 
The  flowers,  which  appear  early  in  spring,  are  mostly  sweet- 
scented,  and  of  various  colours,  red,  white,  yellow,  lilac, 
purple,  crimson,  Sec,  which  in  some  are  beautifully  varie- 
gated. The  above  are  natives  of  England  ;  besides  which 
are  two  varieties,  white  and  pink,  natives  of  China,  produ- 
cing umbels  of  flowers  from  Januai'y  to  ^fay. 

Pyrus  Japonica  alba,  or  Cydonia  Japonica.  One  of  the 
earliest  flowering  dwarf  shrubs  of  the  garden,  producing 
beautiful  blush  fl(jwers  ;  there  is  another  variety,  which  pro- 
duces scarlet  blossoms,  already  described  in  our  catalogue 
of  shrubs. 

Reseda,  Mignonette.  This  fragrant  little  plant  has  been 
already  treated  of  as  an  annual ;  it  may,  however,  be  kept 
under  cultivation  from  January  to  December,  by  sowing 
seed  at  different  seasons  in  a  green-house  or  warm  room. 

Rhododendron,  Rose  Bay.  A  beautiful  genus  of  plants, 
chiefly  natives  of  India,  furnishing  clusters  of  flowers  of 
various  shades,  as  purple,  scarlet,  or  crimson,  and  these  va- 
riegated in  spots  and  flakes ;  in  flower  from  March  to  May. 

Rosea,  Rose.  This  Queen  of  Flowers,  so  universally  ad- 
mired, nature  seems  to  have  distributed  over  the  whole 
civilized  world ;  and  varieties  have  been  so  multiplied  of 
late  years,  as  to  render  it  difficult  to  make  a  judicious  choice  ; 
many  of  the  new  varieties,  however,  being  shy  bloomers, 
are  not  so  desirable  for  green-house  culture  as  the  common 
China  Rose,  a  select  assoitment  of  wliich,  carefully  culti- 
vated, will  produce  blossoms  from  January  to  December, 

Rosmarimis,  Rosemary.  A  fragrant,  half-hardy,  slender- 
leaved  plant,  which  has  been  held  in  great  esteem  for  ao-es. 
In  some  parts  of  Europe  it  is  customary  to  distribute  sprigs 
among  the  guests  at  weddings  and  funerals. 

Ruella.  A  desirable  plant,  of  which  there  are  several 
species ;  they  pi-oduce  purple  or  scarlet  tunnel-shaped  flow- 
ers from  December  to  INIarch. 


118         CATALOGUE  OF  GREEN-HOUSE  PLANTS. 

Salvia,  Mexican  Sage.  A  free-blooming  plant,  produ- 
cing in  the  different  species,  scarlet  and  blue  flowers  in 
spiked  whorls  ;  cuttings  of  which,  if  taken  from  stock  plants 
in  the  green  house  early  in  spring,  and  planted  in  good  gar- 
den soil,  will  embellish  the  borders  three  or  four  months  of 
the  summer. 

Sempeyvivwn  arboreum,  Tree  House  Leek.  A  succulent 
plant,  similar  to  the  common  house  leek,  on  a  dwarfish  stem  ; 
by  some  admired  as  an  evergreen. 

Siapelia.  A  genus  of  dwarf  succulent  plants,  producing 
beautiful  purple,  striped,  freckled,  and  star-like  flowers, 
within  six  inches  of  the  surface  ;  in  its  varieties  from  INIay  to 
November. 

Stevia  serratn,  Vanilla-scented  Stevia.  This  plant,  al- 
though usually  cultivated  as  an  annual,  is  worthy  of  green- 
house culture,  from  its  affording  fragrant  and  ornamental 
materials  for  bouquets  the  whule  winter. 

Sirelitzia  regina,  Queen's  Strelitz,  A  beautiful  dwarf 
plant,  producing  from  a  stalk  from  one  to  two  feet  long, 
several  flowers  of  a  bright  yellow,  contracted  with  blue,  from 
May  to  September. 

Tecoma  capensis.  A  perennial  plant,  producing  orange- 
coloured  trumpet  flowers  in  clusters,  very  similar  to  the 
Bigonia  tribe,  toward  the  end  of  summer, 

Thea,  Tea.  Of  this  celebrated  Chinese  plant,  which  sup- 
plies a  great  portion  of  the  human  family  with  their  domes- 
tic beverage,  there  are  two  varieties,  Thea  vivdis  and  Thea 
bohea.  The  plants,  when  cultivated  in  a  green-house,  are 
by  no  means  of  rapid  growth,  nor  are  the  flowers,  which  are 
white,  of  any  great  beauty. 

Tussilago  frao;rance.  A  half-hardy  herbaceous  Perennial 
plant,  by  some  much  esteemed  for  its  heliotrope-scented 
blossoms,  which  spring  up  in  clusters  from  December  to 
March. 

Vtrbcna  triphijUa,  named  in  some  catalogues  Aloysa  citri- 
odora.     A  deciduous  shrub,  generally  admired  for  the  fra- 


CATALOGUE  OF  GREEN-HOUSE  PLANTS.  119 

grance  of  its  leaves,  which  is  its  chief  recommendation,  the 
blossoms,  which  are  white,  being  small. 

Verbena,  Splendid  Verbena.  A  tribe  of  plants  increasing 
in  variety  annually,  and  which  already  embrace  every  shade 
of  colour,  scarlet,  blue,  rose,  lilac,  white,  pink,  &:c.  Planted 
in  the  flower  borders,  they  impart  beauty  and  variety  through 
the  summer,  and  cultivated  in  the  green-house,  they  embel- 
lish it  a  great  part  of  the  winter. 

Viburnum  tinus,  Laurustinus.  A  much-admired  half- 
hardy  evergreen  shrub,  producing  clusters  of  white  blos- 
soms from  January  to  May.  There  are  other  species  very 
similar  in  habit,  and  one  with  striped  leaves. 

Viola,  Violet.  Of  these  beauties  of  the  garden,  some  of 
which  are  denominated  "  Florist's  Flowers,"  there  are  up- 
ward of  a  hundred  species  and  varieties.  The  early  Violets 
are  highly  fragrant,  and  the  variety  and  beauty  of  the  Pan- 
sey  tribe  almost  exceed  description  or  conception.  As  these 
splendid  dwarf  plants  decorate  the  green-house  and  flower 
borders  from  January  to  December,  they  are  worthy  of  care- 
ful cultivation. 

Yucca  aloe-folia,  and  its  beautiful  variety,  variegata,  are 
desirable  plants  to  cultivate,  from  their  singular  appearance, 
contrasted  with  other  plants.  Their  blossoms,  which  are 
white,  grow  in  spikes,  but  the  plants  do  not  flower  much 
until  several  years  old. 


The  following  invaluable  compendium  is  from  the  pen  of 
John  Lindley,  F.  R.  S.,  Professor  of  Botany  in  the  Univer- 
sity of  London,  and  Associate  Secretary  of  the  Horticultural 
Society,  &c.  &c.  As  this  outline  embraces  the  very  essence 
of  Horticulture  and  Floriculture,  it  is  well  adapted  as  an 
appendage  to  this  department  of  the  work. 


120 


AN   OUTLINE 


FIRST  PRINCIPLES  OF  HORTICULTURE. 


I.  Genreral  Nature  of  Plants. 

1.  Horticulture  is  the  application  of  the  arts  of  cultivation,  multipli- 
cation, and  domestication  to  the  vegetable  kingdom.  Agriculture  and 
Arboriculture  are  branches  of  Horticulture. 

2.  The  vegetable  kingdom  is  composed  of  living  beings,  destitute  of  sensa- 
tion, with  no  power  of  moving  spontaneously  from  place  to  place,  and 
called  plants. 

3.  Plants  are  organized  bodies,  consisting  of  masses  of  tissue  that  is  per- 
meable by  fluids  or  gaseous  matter. 

4.  Vegetable  tissue  consists  either  of  minute  bladders,  or  tubes  adhering 
by  their  contiguous  surfaces,  and  leaving  intermediate  passages  where  they 
do  not  touch. 

5.  Tissue  is  called  Cellular  when  it  is  composed  of  minute  bladders, 
which  either  approach  the  figure  of  a  sphere,  or  are  obviously  some  modi- 
fication of  it,  supposed  to  be  caused  by  extension  or  lateral  compression. 

6.  When  newly  formed  it  is  in  a  very  lax  state,  and  possesses  great  powers 
of  absorption  ;  probably  on  account  of  the  excessive  permeability  of  its 
membrane,  and  the  imperfect  cohesion  of  its  cells. 

7.  Cellular  tissue,  otherwise  called  Parenchyma,  constitute  the  soft  and 
brittle  parts  of  plants;  such  as  pith,  pulp,  the  spaces  between  the  veins  of 
leaves,  the  principal  part  of  the  petals,  and  the  like. 

8.  Succulent  plants  are  such  as  have  an  excessive  developement  of  cel- 
lular tissue. 

9.  It  may  be  considered  the  most  essential  kind  of  tissue,  because,  while 
no  plants  exist  without  it,  many  are  composed  of  nothing  else. 

10.  Tissue  is  called  Wnody  Fibre  when  it  is  composed  of  slender  tubes, 
which  are  conical  and  closed  at  each  end,  and  placed  side  by  side. 

11.  Woody  fibre  is  what  causes  stiffness  and  tenacity  in  certain  parts  of 
plants  ;  hence  it  is  found  in  the  veins  of  leaves,  and  in  bark,  and  it  con- 
stitutes the  principal  part  of  the  wood. 

12.  Vascular  Tissue  is  that  in  which  either  an  elastic  tough  thread  is 
generated  spirally  within  a  tube  that  is  closed  and  conical  at  each  end  ;  or 
rows  of  cylindrical  cellules,  placed  end  to  end,  finally  become  continuous 
tubes  by  the  loss  of  their  enls. 

13.  The  most  remarkable  form  of  vascular  tissue  is  the  Spii-al  Vessel, 
which  has  the  power  of  rolling  with  elasticity  when  stretched. 


ROOT.  121 

14.  Other  kinds  of  vascular  tissue  are  incapable  of  unrolling,  but  break 
when  stretched. 

15.  Spiral  vessels  are  not  found  in  the  wood  or  bark,  and  rarely  in  the 
roots  of  plan  Is. 

16.  Vascular  tissue  of  other  kinds  is  confined  to  the  root,  stem,  veins  of 
leaves,  petals,  and  other  parts  compo.sed  of  leaves.     It  is  not  found  in  bark. 

17.  'Ihe  coinmon  ofR  e  of  the  tissue  is  to  convey  fluid  or  air,  and  to  act 
£is  the  receptacle  of  secretions. 

18.  Cellular  tissue  conveys  fluids  in  all  directions,  absorbs  with  great 
rapidity,  is  the  tirst  cause  of  the  adhesions  that  take  place'between  con- 
tiguous parts,  and  is  the  principal  receptacle  of  secreted  matter. 

19.  Adhesion  will  take  plac«  at  all  times  during  the  growing  season, 
when  the  cellular  tissues  of  two  diilerent  parts,  or  of  two  different  phiiits, 
is  kept  for  some  time  in  contact ;  but  as  none  but  tissues  of  nearly  the 
same  nature  will  adhere,  grafting  and  budding,  which  are  caused  by  the 
adhesion  of  contiguous  parts,  can  only  take  place  either  between  diflferent 
varieties  of  the  same  species,  or  between  nearly  related  species  ;  and  even 
then  only  when  the  corresponding  parts  of  the  scion  or  bud,  and  the  stock, 
are  placed  in  contact. 

20.  Woody  llbre  conveys  fluid  in  the  direction  of  its  length,  gives  stiff- 
ness and  flexibility  to  the  general  system,  and  acts  as  a  protection  to  spiral 
and  other  delicate  vessels. 

21.  Spiral  vessels  convey  oxygenated  air. 

22.  Other  vessels  probably  conduct  fluid  when  young,  and  air  when  old. 

23.  As  the  bodies  of  which  all  tissue  is  composed  are  perfectly  simple, 
unbranched,  and  regular  in  figure,  having,  when  elongated,  their  two  extremi- 
ties exactly  alike,  they  are  more  or  less  capable  of  conveying  gaseous  mat- 
ter or  fluids  in  any  direction  ;  and,  consequently  a  current  may  be  reversed 
in  them  without  inconvenience  :  hence  inverted  cuttinss  or  stems  will  grow. 

24.  All  parts  of  plants  are  composed  of  tissue,  whether  they  be  soft,  as 
pulp  ;  or  hard,  as  the  bony  lining  of  a  peach. 

25.  With  regard  to  Horticultural  operations,  the  parts  of  plants  should 
be  considered  under  the  heads  of  Root  (II.)  ;  Stem  (III.);  Leaf  Buds 
(IV.);  Leaves  (V.) ;  Flowers  (VI.);  Sexes  (VII.);  Fruit  (VIII.);  and 
Seed  (IX). 

II.  Root. 

26.  The  Root  is  the  part  that  strikes  into  the  earth  when  a  seed  begins 
to  germinate,  and  which  afterward  continues  to  lengthen  beneath  the  soil, 

27.  It  is  also  the  part  which  is  sometimes  emitted  by  the  stem,  for  the 
purpose  of  absorbing  nutriment  from  the  atmosphere ;  as  in  Ivy,  Air- 
Plants,  Vines,  &c. 

28.  It  is  distinguished  from  the  stem  by  the  absence  of  leaves  in  any 
Plate,  of  regular  leaf-buds  (IV.);  of  evaporating  pores  or  stomata  (131); 
and  of  pith  in  Exosenous  plants. 

29.  Therefore,  such  underground  bodies  as  those  called  Tuber  (61)  in 
the  Potato  ;  Bulb  (96)  in  the  Onion;  and  solid  Bulb  or  Cormus  (61)  in 
the  Crocus,  are  not  roots. 

30.  The  office  of  the  root  is  to  absorb  food  in  a  fluid  or  gaseous  state  ; 
and  also  to  fix  the  plant  in  the  soil,  or  to  some  firm  support. 

II 


122  ROOT. 

31.  The  latter  office  is  essential  to  the  certain  and  regular  performance 
of  the  former. 

32.  U  is  not  by  the  whole  of  their  surface  that  roots  absorb  food ;  but 
only  by  their  young  and  newly  formed  extremities,  called  Span gioles. 

33.  Hence  the  preservation  of  the  sponsioles  in  an  uninjured  state  is 
essential  to  the  removal  of  a  plant  fiom  one  place  to  another. 

34.  A  Spongiole  consists  of  very  young  vascular  tissue  (12)  surrounded 
by  very  young  cellular  substance  (5). 

3.5.  It  is  therefore  one  of  the  most  delicate  parts  of  plants,  and  the  most 
easily  injured. 

36.  Hence  whatever  is  known  to  produce  any  specific  deleterious  action 
upon  leaves  or  stems,  such  as  certain  gases  (298)  and  mineral  or  vegetable 
poisons,  will  produce  a  much  more  fatal  elTect  upon  the  spongioles. 

37.  These  organs  have  no  power  of  selecting  their  food,  but  will  absorb 
whatever  the  earth  or  air  may  contain,  which  is  sufficiently  fluid  to  pass 
through  the  sides  of  their  tissue. 

35.  So  thai  if  the  spongioles  are  developed  in  a  medium  which  is  of  an 
unsuitable  nature,  as  they  will  still  continue  to  absorb,  they  cannot  fail  to 
introduce  matter  which  will  prove  either  injurious  or  fatal  to  life,  accord- 
ing to  its  intensity. 

39.  This  may  often  explain  why  trees  suddenly  become  unhealthy,  with- 
out any  external  apparent  cause. 

40.  Plants  have  the  power  of  replacing  spongioles  by  the  formation  of 
new  ones  ;  so  that  an  individual  is  not  destroyed  by  their  loss. 

41.  But  this  power  depends  upon  the  co-operation  of  the  atmosphere, 
and  upon  the  special  vital  powers  of  tlie  species. 

42.  If  the  atmosphere  is  so  humid  as  to  hinder  evaporation,  spongioles 
will  have  time  to  form  anew  ;  but  if  the  atmosphere  is  dry,  the  loss  by 
evaporation  will  be  so  much  greater  than  can  be  supplied  by  the  injured 
r(K)ts,  that  the  whole  system  will  be  emptied  of  fluid  before  the  new  spon- 
gioles can  form. 

43.  This  is  the  key  to  Transplantation  (XV.) 

44.  As  roots  are  destitute  of  leaf-buds  (IV.),  and  as  leaf-buds  are  essen- 
tial to  the  multiplication  of-an  individual  (108),  it  should  follow  that  roots 
can  never  be  employed  for  the  purpose  of  multiplication. 

4.5.  Nevertheless,  roots  when  woody  have,  occasionally,  the  power  of 
generating  adventitious  leaf-buds  (IV.) ;  and  when  this  is  the  case,  they 
may  be  employed  for  the  purpose  of  multiplication  ;  as  those  of  Cydonia 
Japonica,  &c. 

46.  The  cause  of  this  power  existing  in  some  species,  and  not  in  others, 
is  unknown. 

47.  It  is  therefore  a  power  that  can  never  be  calculated  upon,  and  whose 
existence  is  only  to  be  discovered  by  accident. 

48.  Although  roots  are  generated  under  ground,  and  sometimes  at  con- 
piderable  depths,  yet  access  to  a  certain  quantity  of  atmospheric  air  appears 
indispensable  to  the  healthy  execution  of  their  functions.  This  is  con- 
stantly exemplified  in  plants  growing  in  the  earth  at  the  back  of  an  ill- 
ventilated  forcing-house,  where  the  roots  have  no  means  of  finding  their 
way  into  the  earth  on  the  outside  of  the  house. 

49.  It  is  supposed  by  some  that  the  introduction  of  oxygen  into  their 
system  is  as  indispensable  to  them  as  to  animals. 


STEM.  123 

50.  It  seems  more  probable  that  the  oxygen  of  the  atmosphere,  seizing 
upon  a  certain  quantity  of  carbon,  forms  carbonic  acid,  which  they  absorb, 
und  feed  upon. 

51.  It  is  at  least  certain  that  the  exclusion  of  air  from  the  roots  will 
always  induce  art  unhealthy  condition,  or  even  death  itself.  This  may  be 
one  of  the  reasons  why  stiff  tenacious  soils  are  seldom  suited  to  the  pur- 
poses of  the  cultivator,  until  their  adhesiveness  has  been  destoyed  by  the 
addition  of  other  matter. 

52.  Spongioles  secrete  excrementitious  matter,  which  is  unsuitable  to  the 
same  species  afterward  as  food  ;  for  poisonous  substances  are  as  fatal  to  the 
species  that  secrete  them  as  to  any  otiier  species. 

53.  But  to  the  other  species  the  excrementitious  matter  is  either  not  un- 
suitable, or  not  deleterious. 

54.  Hence,  soil  may  be  rendered  impure  (or,  as  we  inaccurately  say, 
worn  out)  for  one  species,  which  will  not  be  impure  for  others. 

55.  This  is  the  true  key  of  the  theory  of  rotation  of  crops. 

56.  This  also  may  serve  to  explain  in  part  why  light  soil  is  indispensa- 
ble to  many  plants,  and  heavy  or  tenacious  soil  suitable  to  so  few  ;  for  in 
the  former  case  the  spongioles  will  meet  with  little  resistance  to  their  elong- 
ation, and  will  consequently  be  continually  leaving  the  place  where  their 
excrementitious  mailer  is  deposited  ;  while  in  the  latter  case,  the  reverse 
will  occur. 

III.  Stem. 

57.  The  Stem  is  that  part  of  a  plant  which  is  developed  above  ground, 
and  which  took  an  upward  direction  at  the  period  of  germination. 

58.  It  consists  of  a  woody  axis,  covered  by  bark  having  stomata  (131) 
on  its  surface,  bearing  leaves  with  leaf-buds,  in  their  exillce,  and  producing 
flowers  and  fruit. 

59.  The  points  where  leaves  are  borne  are  called  Nudi ;  the  spaces  be- 
tween the  leaves,  are  Internndia. 

60.  The  more  erect  a  stem  grows,  the  more  vigorous  it  is ;  and  the  morn 
it  deviates  from  this  direction  to  a  horizontal  or  pendulous  position,  the 
less  is  it  vigorous. 

61.  Some  stems  are  developed  under  ground,  such  as  the  Tubers  of  the 
Potato  and  the  Cormus  of  the  Crocus  ;  but  they  are  known  from  roots  by 
the  presence  of  leaves,  and  regular  leaf-buds,  upon  their  surface. 

62.  Stems  increase  in  diameter  in  two  ways. 

63.  Either  by  the  addition  of  new  matter  to  the  outside  of  the  wood 
and  the  inside  of  the  bark  ;  when  they  are  Exogenous  ;  ex.  Oak. 

64.  Or  by  the  addition  of  new  matter  to  their  inside  ;  when  they  are 
Endogenous ;  ex.  Cane. 

65.  In  Exogenous  stems,  the  central  portion,  which  is  harder  and  darker 
than  that  at  the  circumference,  is  called  Heart  Wood;  while  tlie  exterior, 
which  is  .softer  and  liiiliter,  is  called  Alhernum,  or  Sup  Wood. 

66.  The  inside  of  the  bark  of  such  stems  has  also  the  technical  name  of 
Liher. 

67.  The  heart  wood  was,  when  young,  Albernum,  and  afterward 
changed  its  nature  by  becoming  the  receptacle  of  certain  secretions  peculiar 
to  the  species. 


124  LEAF-BUDS. 

68.  Hence  the  greater  durability  of  heart  wood  than  of  sap  wood. 
While  the  latter  is  newly  formed  empty  tissue,  almost  as  perishable  as  bark 
itself,  the  former  is  protected  against  destruction  by  the  introduction  of 
secretions  that  become  solid  matter,  which  is  often  insoluble  in  water,  and 
never  permeable  to  air. 

69.  The  secretions  by  which  heart  wood  is  solidified  are  prepared  in  the 
leaves,  whence  they  are  sent  downward  through  the  bark,  and  from  the 
bark  communicated  to  the  central  part  of  the  stem. 

70.  The  channels  through  which  this  communication  takes  place  are 
called  Medullary  Ruyti,  or  Silver  Grain. 

71.  Medullary  rays  are  plates  of  cellular  tissue,  in  a  very  compressed 
state,  passmg  rrom  the  pith  into  the  bark. 

12.  The  wood  itself  is  composed  of  tubes  consisting  of  woody  fibre  and 
vascular  tissue,  imbedded  longitudinally  in  cellular  substance. 

73.  This  cellular  substance  only  developes  horizontally  ;  and  it  is  to  it 
that  the  peculiar  character  of  different  kinds  of  wood  is  chiefly  due. 

74.  for  this  reason  the  wood  of  the  stock  of  a  grafted  plant  will  never 
become  like  that  of  its  scion,  although,  as  will   be  hereafter  seen  (IV.),  t 
woody  matter  of  the  stock  must  all  originate  in  the  scion. 

75.  The  stem  of  an  exogenous  plant  may  therefore  be  compared  to  a 
piece  of  linen,  of  which  the  weft  is  composed  of  cellular  tissue,  and  the 
warp  of  fibrous  and  vascular  tissue. 

76.  In  the  spring  and  autumn  a  viscid  substance  is  secreted  between  the 
wood  and  the  liber,  called  the  Cambium. 

77.  This  cambium  appears  to  be  the  matter  out  of  which  the  cellular 
horizontal  substance  of  the  stem  is  organized. 

78.  In  Endogenous  stems  the  portion  at  the  circumference  is  harder  than 
that  in  the  centre  ;  and  there  is  no  separable  bark. 

79.  Their  stems  consist  of  bundles  of  woody  matter,  imbedded  in  cel- 
lular tissue,  and  composed  of  vascular  tissue  surrounded  by  woody  fibre. 

80.  The  stem  is  not  only  the  depository  of  the  peculiar  secretions  of 
species,  (67),  but  is  also  the  medium  through  which  the  sap  flows  in  its 
passage  from  the  roots  into  the  leaves. 

81.  In  exogenous  stems  (63)  it  certainly  rises  through  the  alburnum, 
and  descends  throuah  the  bark. 

82.  In  endogenous  stems  (64)  it  probably  rises  through  the  bundles  of 
wood,  and  descends  through  the  cellular  substance  ;  but  this  is  uncertain. 

S3.  Stems  have  the  power  of  propagating  an  individual  only  by  means 
of  their  Leaf-buds.  If  destitute  of  leaf-buds,  they  have  no  power  of 
multiplication,  except  fortuitously. 

IV.  Leaf-buds. 

84.  Leaf-buds  are  rudiments  of  branches,  enclosed  within  scales,  which 
are  imperfectly  formed  leaves. 

85.  All  the  leaf-buds  upon  the  same  branch  are  constitutionally  and  ana- 
tomically the  same. 

86.  They  are  of  two  kinds  ;  namely,  regular  or  normal,  and  adventi' 
tinus  or  latent  (119). 

87.  Regular  leaf-buds  are  formed  at  the  axillae  of  leaves. 


LEAF-BUDS.  125 

8S.  They  are  organs  capable  of  propagating  the  individual  from  which 
they  originate. 

89.  They  are  at  first  nourished  by  the  fluid  lying  in  the  pith,  but  finally 
establish  for  themselves  a  communication  with  the  soil  by  the  woody  mat- 
ter which  they  send  downward. 

90.  Their  force  of  developement  will  be  in  proportion  to  their  nourish- 
ment; and,  consequently,  wlicn  it  is  wished  to  procure  a  young  shoot  of 
unusual  vigour,  all  other  shoots  in  the  vicinity  are  prevented  growing,  so 
as  to  accumulate  for  one  shoot  only  all  the  food  that  would  otherwise  have 
been  consumed  by  several. 

91.  Cutting  back  to  a  few  eyes  is  an  operation  in  pruning  to  produce  the 
name  effect,  by  directing  the  sap,  as  it  ascends,  into  two  or  three  buds  only, 
instead  of  allowing  it  to  expend  itself  upon  all  the  others  which  are  cut 

away. 

92.  When  leif-buds  grow,  they  develope  in  three  directions  ;  the  one 
horizontal,  the  other  upward,  and  the  third  downward. 

93.  The  horizontal  developement  is  confined  to  the  cellular  system  of  the 
bark,  pith,  and  medullary  rays. 

94.  The  upward  and  downward  developements  are  confined  to  the  woody 
fibre  and  vascular  tissue. 

95.  In  this  respect  they  resemble  seed  ;  from  which  they  differ  physio- 
logically in  propagating  the  individual,  while  seed  can  only  propagate  the 
fipecies. 

96.  When  they  disarticulate  from  the  stem  that  bears  them,  they  are 
called  Bulbs. 

97.  In  some  plants,  a  bud,  when  separated  from  its  stem,  will  grow  and 
form  a  new  plant  if  placed  in  circumstances  favourable  to  the  preservation 
of  its  vital  powers. 

98.  But  this  property  seems  confined  to  plants  having  a  firm,  woody, 
perennial  stem. 

99.  Such  buds,  when  detached  from  their  parent  stem,  send  roots  down- 
ward and  a  stem  upward. 

100.  But  if  the  buds  are  not  separated  from  the  plant  to  which  they 
belong,  the  matter  they  send  downward  becomes  wood  and  liber  (66),  and 
the  stems  they  send  upward  become  branches.  Hence  it  is  said  that  wood 
and  liber  are  formed  by  the  roots  of  leafbuds. 

101.  If  no  leaf-buds  are  called  into  action,  there  will  be  no  addition  of 
wood  ;  and.  consequently,  the  destruction  or  absence  of  leaf-buds  is  accom- 
panied by  the  absence  of  wood  ;  as  is  proved  by  a  shoot,  the  upper  buds 
of  which  are  destroyed  and  the  lower  allowed  to  develope.  The  lower 
part  of  the  shoot  will  increase  in  diameter;  the  upper  will  remain  of  its 
original  dimensions. 

102.  The  quantity  of  wood,  therefore,  depends  upon  the  quantity  of 
leaf-buds  that  develope. 

103.  It  is  of  the  greatest  importance  to  bear  this  in  mind  in  pruning 
timber  trees  :  for  excessive  pruning  must  necessarily  be  injurious  to  the 
quantity  of  produce. 

104.  If  a  cutting  with  a  leaf-bud  on  it  be  placed  in  circumstances  fitted 
to  the  developement  of  the  latter,  it  will  grow  and  become  a  new  plant. 

105.  If  this  happens  when  the  cutting  is  inserted  in  the  earth,  the  new 
jlant  is  said  by  gardeners  to  be  upon  Us  own  bottom. 

11* 


126  LEAF-BUDS. 

106.  But  if  it  happens  when  the  cutting  is  applied  to  the  dissevered  end 
of  another  individual,  called  a  stock,  the  roots  are  insinuated  into  the  tissue 
of  the  stock,  and  a  plant  is  said  to  be  grafted,  the  cutting  being  called  a 
scion. 

107.  There  is,  therefore,  little  difference  between  cuttings  and  scions, 
except  that  the  former  root  into  the  earth,  the  latter  into  another  plant 

108.  Bu'.  if  a  cutting  of  the  same  plant  without  a  leaf-bud  upon  it  be 
placed  in  the  same  circumstinces,  it  will  not  grow,  but  will  die. 

lOP.  Unless  its  vit;il  powers  are  sufficient  to  enable  it  to  develope  an 
adventitious  leaf-bud  (119). 

110.  A  leaf- bud  separated  from  the  stem  will  also  become  a  new  indi- 
vidual, if  its  vital  energy  is  sufficiently  powerful. 

111.  And  this,  whether  it  is  planted  in  earth,  into  which  it  roots  like  a 
cutting,  or  in  a  new  individual,  to  which  it  adheres  and  grows  like  a  scion. 
In  the  former  case  it  is  called  an  eye,  in  the  latter  a  bud. 

112.  Every  leaf-bud  has,  therefore,  its  own  distinct  system  of  life  and 
of  growth. 

113.  And  as  all  the  leaf-buds  of  an  individual  are  exactly  alike,  it  follows 
that  a  plant  is  a  collection  of  a  great  number  of  distinct  identical  systems 
of  life,  and,  consequently,  a  compound  individual. 

114.  Regular  leaf-buds  being  generated  in  the  exillas  of  the  leaves,  it  is 
there  that  they  are  always  to  be  sought. 

11.5.  And  if  they  cannot  be  discovered  by  ocular  inspection,  it  may 
nevertheless  be  always  inferred  with  confidence  that  they  exist  in  such 
situations,  and  may  possibly  be  called  from  their  dormant  state  into  life. 

116.  Hence,  wherever  the  scar  of  ,i  leaf,  or  the  remains  of  a  leaf,  can 
be  discovered,  there  it  is  to  be  understood  that  the  rudiments  exist  of  a 
system  of  life  which  may  be,  by  favourable  circumst,inces,  called  into 
action. 

117.  Hence,  all  parts  upon  which  leaves  have  ever  grown  may  be  made 
use  of  for  purposes  of  propagation. 

118.  From  these  considerations  it  appears  that  the  most  direct  analogy 
between  the  Animal  and  Vegetable  kingdoms  is  with  the  Polypes  of  the 
former. 

119.  Adventitious  leaf-buds  are  in  all  respects  like  regular  leaf-buds, 
except  that  they  are  not  formed  at  the  exillae  of  leaves,  but  develope 
occasionally  from  all  and  any  part  of  a  plant. 

120.  They  arc  occasionally  produced  by  roots,  by  solid  wood,  or  even  by 
leaves  anri  flowers. 

121.  Hence  roots,  solid  wood,  or  even  leaves  and  flowers,  may  be  used 
as  means  of  propagation. 

122.  But  as  the  developement  of  adventitious  buds  is  extremely  uncer- 
tain, such  means  of  propagation  can  never  be  calculated  on,  and  form  no 
part  of  the  science  of  cultivation. 

123.  The  cause  of  the  formation  of  adventitious  leaf-buds  is  unknown. 

124.  From  certain  experiments  it  appears  that  they  may  be  generated  by 
sap  in  a  state  of  great  accumulation  and  activity. 

125.  Consequently,  whatever  tends  to  the  accumulation  of  sap  in  an 
active  state  may  be  expected  to  be  conducive  to  the  formation  of  adventi- 
tious leaf-buds. 


LEAVES.  127 

V,  Leaves. 

126.  Leaves  are  expansions  of  bark,  traversed  hy  veins. 

127.  The  veins  consist  of  spiral  vessels  enclosed  in  woody  fibre  ;  they 
originate  in  the  medullary  sheath  and  liber  ;  and  they  are  connected  by 
loose  Parenchyma  (7),  which  is  full  of  cavities  containing  air. 

1 28.  This  parenchyma  consists  of  two  layers,  of  which  the  upper  is  com- 
posed of  cellules  perpendicular  to  the  cuticle,  and  the  lower  of  cellules 
parallel  with  the  cuticle. 

129.  These  cellules  are  arranged  so  as  to  leave  numerous  open  passages 
among  them  for  the  circulation  of  air  in  the  inside  of  a  leaf.  Parenchyma 
of  this  nature  is  called  cavernous. 

130.  Cuticle  is  formed  of  one  or  more  layers  of  depressed  cellular  tissue, 
which  is  generally  hardened,  and  always  dry  and  filled  with  air, 

131.  Between  many  of  the  cells  of  the  cuticle  are  placed  appertures 
called  s/oinafa,  which  have  the  power  of  opening  and  closing  as  circum- 
stances may  require. 

132.  It  is  by  means  of  this  apparatus  that  leaves  elaborate  the  sap  which 
they  absorb  from  the  albernum,  converting  it  into  the  secretions  peculiar  to 
the  species. 

133.  Their  cavernous  structure  (129')  enables  them  to  expose  the  great- 
est possible  surface  of  their  parenchyma  to  the  action  of  the  atmosphere. 

134.  Their  cuticle  is  a  non-conducting  skin,  which  protects  them  from 
great  variations  in  temperature,  and  through  which  gaseous  matter  will 
pass  readily. 

135.  Their  stomata  are  pores  that  are  chiefly  intended  to  facilitate  evap- 
oration ;  for  which  they  are  well  adapted  by  a  power  they  possess  of  open- 
ing or  closing  as  circumstances  may  require. 

136.  Thej^  are  also  intended  f()r  focilitating  the  rapid  emission  of  air, 
when  it  is  necessary  that  such  a  function  siiould  be  performed. 

137.  The  functions  of  stomata  being  of  such  vital  importance,  it  is 
always  advisable  to  examine  them  microscopically  in  cases  where  doubts 
are  entertained  of  the  state  of  the  atmosphere  which  a  particular  speciea 
may  require. 

138.  Leaves  growing  in  air  are  covered  with  a  cuticle. 

139.  Leaves  growing  under  water  have  no  cuticle. 

140.  All  the  secretions  of  plants  being  formed  in  the  leaves,  or  at  least 
the  greater  part,  it  follows  that  secretions  cannot  take  place  if  leaves  are 
destroyed. 

141.  And  as  this  secreting  property  depends  upon  specific  vital  powers 
connected  with  the  decomposition  of  carbonic  acid,  and  called  into  action 
only  when  the  leaves  are  freely  exposed  to  light  and  air  (279),  it  also  fol- 
lows that  the  quantity  of  secretion  will  be  in  direct  pro])ortion  to  the 
quantity  of  leaves,  and  to  their  free  exposure  to  light  and  air. 

142.  The  usual  position  of  leaves  is  spiral,  at  regularly  increasmg  or 
diminishing  distances  ;  they  are  then  said  to  be  alternate. 

143.  But  if  the  space,  or  the  axis,  that  separates  two  leaves,  is  reduced 
to  nothing  at  alternate  intervals,  they  become  opposite. 

144.  And  if  the  spaces  that  separate  several  leaves  be  reduced  to  nothing, 
they  become  verticillate. 


128  FLOWERS. 

145.  Opposite  and  verticillate  leaves,  therefore,  differ  from  alternate  leaves 
only  in  the  spaces  that  separate  them  being  reduced  to  nothing. 

VI.  Flowers. 

146.  Flowers  consist  of  two  principal  parts,  namely.  Floral  Envelopes 
(149),  and  Sexes  {VII.') 

147.  Of  these,  the  former  constitute  what  is  popularly  considered  the 
flower ;  although  the  latter  are  the  only  parts  that  are  absolutely  essential 
to  it. 

148.  However  different  they  may  be  in  appearance  from  leaves,  they  are 
all  formed  of  those  organs  in  a  more  or  less  modified  state,  and  alter,ed  in 
greater  or  less  degree  by  mutual  adhesion. 

149.  The  floral  envelopes  consist  of  two  or  more  whorls  of  transformed 
leaves ;  of  which  part  is  calyx,  its  leaves  being  called  sepals,  and  part 
corolla,  its  leaves  being  called  petals. 

150.  The  sexes  are  also  tranisformed  leaves  (187). 

151.  TliC  calyx  is  always  the  outermost,  the  carolla  is  always  the  inner- 
most whorls  ;  and  if  tiiere  is  but  one  floral  envelope,  that  one  is  calyx. 

152.  Usually  the  calyx  is  green,  and  the  corolla  coloured  and  more 
highly  developed  :  but  the  reverse  is  frequently  the  case,  as  in  Fuchsia, 
Ribes  sanguineum,  &c. 

153.  A  flower  being,  then,  an  axis  surrounded  by  leaves,  it  is  in  reality 
a  stunted  branch  :  that  is,  one  the  growth  of  which  is  checked,  and  its 
power  of  elongation  destroyed. 

154.  That  flowers  are  stunted  branches  is  proved,  first,  by  all  their  parts, 
especially  the  most  external,  occasionally  reverting  to  the  state  of  ordinary 
leaves  ;  secondly,  by  their  parts  being  often  transformed  into  each  other; 
and,  thirdly,  by  the  whorls  of  flower-buds  being  dislocated  and  actually 
converted  into  branches  whenever  any  thing  occurs  to  stimulate  them 
excessively. 

155.  Their  most  essential  distinctive  character  consists  in  the  buds  at 
the  exilliE  of  their  leaves  being  usually  dormant,  while  those  in  the  exilte 
of  ordinary  leaves  are  usually  active. 

156.  For  this  reason,  while  leaf-buds  can  be  used  for  the  purpose  of  pro- 
pagation, flower-buds  cannot  usually  be  so  employed. 

157.  Being  stunted  branches,  their  position  on  the  stem  is  the  same  as 
that  of  developed  branches. 

158.  And  as  there  is  in  all  plants  a  very  great  difference  in  thedevelope- 
ment  of  leaf-buds,  some  growing  readily  into  branches,  others  only  unfold- 
ing their  leaves  without  elongating,  and  many  remaining  altogether  dor- 
mant, it  follows  that  flower-buds  may  form  upon  plants  of  whatever  age 
and  in  whatever  state. 

159.  But  to  produce  a  general  formation  of  flov^^er-buds  it  is  necessary 
that  there  should  be  some  general  predisposing  constitutional  cause,  inde- 
pendent of  accidental  circumstances. 

160.  This  predisposing  cause  is  the  accumulation  of  sap  and  of  secreted 
matter. 

161.  Therefore,  whatever  tends  to  retard  the  free  flow  of  sap,  and  causes 
it  to  accumulate,  will  cause  the  production  of  flower-buds  or  fertility. 


FLOWERS.  129 

162.  And,  on  the  other  hand,  whatever  tends  to  produce  excessive 
vigour,  causes  the  dispersion  of  sap,  or  prevents  its  elaboration,  and  causes 
sterility. 

1G3.  Transplantation  with  a  partial  destruction  of  roots,  age,  or  high 
temperature  accompanied  by  a  dry  atmosphere,  training  obliquely  or  in 
an  inverted  direction,  a  constant  destruction  of  the  extremities  of  young 
growing  branches,  will  all  cause  an  accumulation  of  sap,  and  secretions ; 
and,  consequently,  all  such  circumstances  are  favourable  to  the  production 
of  flower-buds. 

164.  But  a  richly  manured  soil,  high  temperature,  with  great  atmospheric 
humidity,  or  an  utiinti^rrupted  flow  of  sap,  are  all  causes  of  excessive  vig- 
our, and  are  consequently  unfavourable  to  the  production  of  (lower-buds. 

165.  There  is  a  tendency  in  many  flowers  to  enlarge,  to  alter  their 
colours,  or  to  change  their  appearance  by  transformation  and  multiplication 
of  their  parts,  whenever  they  have  been  raised  from  seed  for  several  gene- 
rations, or  domesticated. 

166.  The  causes  of  this  tendency  are  probably  various,  but  being  entirely 
unknown,  no  certain  rules  for  the  production  of  varieties  in  flowers  can  be 
laid  down,  except  by  the  aid  of  hybridizing  (201). 

167.  It  often  happens  that  a  single  branch  produces  flowers  different 
from  those  produced  on  other  branches.     This  is  technically  called  a  sport. 

16S.  As  every  bud  on  that  branch  has  the  same  specific  vital  principle 
(113),  a  bud  taken  from  such  a  branch  will  produce  an  individual,  the 
whole  of  whose  branches  will  retain  the  character  of  the  sport. 

169.  Consequently,  by  buds  an  accidental  variety  may  be  made  perma- 
nent, if  the  plant  that  sports  be  of  a  firm  woody  nature  (9S). 

170.  As  flowers  feed  upon  the  prepared  sap  in  their  vicinity,  the  greater 
the  abundance  of  this  prepared  food,  the  more  perfect  will  be  their  devel- 
opement. 

171.  Or  the  fewer  the  flowers  on  a  given  branch,  the  more  food  they  will 
severally  have  to  nourish  them,  and  the  more  perfect  will  they  be. 

172.  The  beauty  of  flowers  will  therefore  be  increased  either  by  an  abun- 
dant supply  of  food,  or  by  a  diminution  of  their  numbers  (thinning),  or  by 
both.     The  business  of  the  pruner  is  to  cause  these  by  his  operation. 

173.  The  beauty  of  flowers  depends  upon  their  free  exposure  to  light 
and  air,  because  it  consists  in  the  richness  of  their  colours,  and  their  colours 
are  only  formed  by  the  action  of  these  two  agents  (281). 

174.  Hence  flowers  produced  in  dark  or  shaded  confined  situations  are 
either  imperfect,  or  destitute  of  their  habitual  size  and  beauty. 

175.  Double  flowers  are  those  in  which  the  stamens  are  transformed 
into  petals ;  or  in  which  the  latter,  or  the  sepals,  are  multiplied.  They 
should  not  be  confounded  with  Proliferous  (183),  and  Discoid  Compound 
Flowers  {\S^). 

176.  Although  no  certain  rules  for  the  production  of  double  flowers  can 
be  laid  down,  yet  it  is  probable  ihat  those  flowers  have  the  greatest  tendency 
to  become  double,  in  which  the  sexes  are  habitually  multiplied. 

177.  In  Icosandrous  and  Polyandrous  plants  either  the  stamens  or  the 
pistilla  are  always  very  numerous  when  the  flowers  are  in  a  natural  state ; 
and  it  is  chiefly  in  such  plants  that  double  flowers  occur,  when  they  become 
transformed. 


130  SEXES. 

178.  It  is,  therefore,  in  such  plants  that  double  flowers  are  to  be  princi- 
pally expected. 

179.  In  proportion  as  the  sexes  of  flowers  habitually  become  few  in 
number,  do  the  instances  of  double  flowers  become  rare. 

180.  Double  flowers  are  therefore  least  to  be  expected  in  plants  with 
fewest  stamens. 

181.  Whenever  the  component  parts  of  a  flower  adhere  by  their  edges, 
as  in  monophylious  calyxes,  monopetalous  corollas,  and  monadelphous,  or 
di-,  or  poly-adelphous  stamens,  the  tendency  to  an  unnatural  multiplication 
of  parts  seem  checked. 

182.  Therefore,  m  such  cases,  double  flowers  are  little  to  be  expected  • 
they  are,  in  fact,  very  rare. 

183.  Proliferous  flowers  are  those  in  which  parts  that  usually  have  all 
their  axillary  buds  dormant,  accidentally  develope  such  buds  ;  as  in  the  Hen 
and  Chickens  Daisy,  in  which  the  bractcsE  of  the  involucrum  form  other 
Daisy-heads  in  their  axillfe  ;  or,  as  in  certain  Roses,  in  which  the  carpellary 
leaves  develope  leaf-buds  in  their  axilte,  so  that  the  flower  becomes  a 
branch,  the  lower  leaves  of  which  are  coloured  and  transformed,  and  the 
upper  green,  and  in  their  ordinary  state. 

184.  Discoid  compound  flowers  are  those  in  which  the  central  florets  of 
a  flower-head  acquire  carollas,  like  those  of  the  circumference,  as  in  the 
Dahlia  ;  the  cultivated  variety  of  which  should  be  called  discoid,  and  not 
double. 

185.  These  last  two  are  so  essentially  different  from  double  flowers,  that 
whatever  laws  may  be  supposed  to  govern  the  production  or  amelioration 
of  double  flowers,  can  have  no  relation  to  proliferous  or  discoid  compound 
flowers. 

VII.  Sexes. 

186.  The  sexes  consist  of  two  or  more  whorls  of  transformed  leaves,  of 
which  the  outer  are  called  Sfameun  (ISS),  and  the  inner  Pistillum  (191). 

187.  They  are  known  to  be  modifications  of  leaves,  because  they  very 
frequently  are  transformed  into  petals  wiiich  are  demonstrably  such  (149) ; 
and  because  they  occasionally  revert  to  the  state  of  leaves. 

188.  The  stamens  bear  at  their  apex  an  organ,  called  the  anther,  which 
contains  a  powder  called  pollen. 

1S9.  When  the  anther  is  full  grown  it  opens  and  emits  the  pollen,  either 
dispersing  it  in  tlie  air  in  consequence  of  the  elasticity  with  which  it  opens; 
or  depositing  it  upon  the  stigmata  (191)  ;  or  exposing  it  to  the  action  of 
wind,  or  such  other  disturbing  causes  as  may  liberate  it  from  its  case. 

190.  The  pollen  consists  of  exceedingly  minute  hollow  balls,  or  cases, 
containing  myriads  of  moving  particles,  which  are  the  fertilizing  principle 
of  the  stamens. 

191.  The  pistillum  has  at  its  base  one  or  more  cavities  or  cells,  in  which 
bodies  called  ovula  are  placed  ;  and  at  its  apex  one  or  more  secreting  sur- 
faces called  stigmata. 

192.  The  ovula  are  the  rudiments  of  seed, 

103.  If  the  fertilizing  powder  of  the  pollen  comes  in  contact  with  the 
stigmata,  the  ovula  in  the  cells  of  the  pistillum  are  vivified,  and  become  seed. 


FRUIT.  131 

194.  But  if  this  contact  does  not  take  place,  the  ovula  cannot  possibly 
be  vivified,  but  shrivel  up  and  perish. 

195.  The  phenomenon  of  vivification  takes  place  in  consequence  of  the 
descent  of  a  portion  of  the  moving  particles  (190)  of  the  pollen  into  the 
ovula,  where  such  particles  form  the  commencement  of  future  plants. 

196.  In  wild  plants  stigmata  is  usually  acted  upon  only  by  the  pollen 
of  the  stamens  which  belong  to  it. 

197.  In  this  case  the  seed  thus  vivified  will,  when  sown,  produce  new 
individuals,  differing  very  little  from  that  by  which  they  were  them- 
selves produced. 

198.  And,  tlierefore,  wild  plants  are  for  the  most  part  multiplied  from 
generation  to  generation  without  change. 

199.  But  it  is  possible  to  cause  deviations  from  this  law,  by  artificial 
means. 

200.  If  the  pollen  of  one  species  is  placed  upon  the  stigmata  of  another 
species,  the  ovula  will  be  vivified  ;  and  what  is  called  a  hybrid  plant  will  be 
produced,  by  those  ovula  when  they  shall  have  grown  to  be  seed. 

201.  Hybrid  plants  are  dillerent  from  both  their  parents,  and  are  gene- 
rally intermediate  in  character  between  them. 

202.  They  have  little  power  of  perpetuating  themselves  by  seed  ;  but 
they  may,  if  woody,  be  perpetuated  by  cuttings  (312),  buds  (354),  scions 
(335),  &c. 

203.  Therefore,  no  hybrids  but  such  as  are  of  a  woody  perennial  char- 
acter can  be  perpetuated. 

204.  It  usually  happens  that  the  hybrid  has  the  constitution  and  general 
aspect  of  the  polliniferous  parent  ;  but  is  influenced  in  secondary  charac- 
ters by  the  peculiarity  of  the  female  parent. 

205.  This  should  always  be  borne  in  mind  in  procuring  new  hybrid  plauts. 

206.  Really  hybrid  plants  must  not  be  confounded  with  such  as  are  spu- 
rious, in  consequence  of  their  origin  bemg  between  two  varieties  of  the 
same  species,  and  not  two  species  of  the  i-ame  genus. 

207.  Hybrid  plants,  although  incapable  of  perpetuation  by  seed,  are  often 
more  abundant  rtowerers  than  either  parent. 

20S.  This  is,  probably,  connected  with  constitutional  debility  (162). 

VIII.  Fruit. 

209.  Fruit,  strictly  speaking,  is  the  pistillum  arrived  at  maturity. 

210.  When  the  calyx  adheres  to  the  pistillum,  and  grows  with  it  to 
maturity,  the  fruit  is  called  inferior ,-  as  the  Apple. 

211.  But  when  the  pistillum  alone  ripens,  there  being  no  adhesion  to  it 
on  the  part  of  the  calyx,  the  fruit  is  called  superior,-  as  the  Peach. 

212.  The  fruit  is,  therefore,  in  common  language,  the  flower,  or  some 
part  of  it,  arrived  at  its  most  complete  state  of  existence  ;  and  conse- 
quently, is  itself  a  portion  of  a  stunted  branch  (153). 

213.  The  nature  of  its  connection  with  the  stem  is  therefore  the  same 
as  that  of  the  branches  with  each  other,  or  of  leaves  with  their  stem. 

214.  A  superior  fruit  consisting  only  of  one,  or  of  a  small  number  of 
metamorphosed  leaves,  it  has  little  or  no  power  of  forming  a  communicft- 
tion  with  the  earth  and  of  feeding  itself,  as  real  branches  have  (Sy). 


132  FRUIT. 

215.  It  lias  also  very  little  adhesion  to  its  branch  ;  so  that  but  slight 
causes  are  sufficient  to  detach  it  from  the  plant,  especially  at  an  early  age, 
when  all  its  parts  are  tender. 

216.  Hence  the  difficulty  of  causing  Peaches  and  the  lilie  to  stone,  or  to 
pass  over  that  age,  in  which  the  vascular  bundles  that  join  them  to  the 
branch  bccume  woody,  and  secure  them  to  their  place. 

217.  For  the  same  reason  they  are  fed  almost  entirely  by  other  parts, 
upon  secreted  matter  which  they  attract  to  themselves,  elaborate,  and  store 
up  in  the  cavities  of  their  tissue. 

218.  The  office  of  feeding  such  fruit  is  performed  by  young  branches 
which  transmit  nutriment  to  it  through  the  bark  (69). 

219.  But  as  young  branches  can  only  transmit  nutriment  downward,  it 
follows  that,  unless  a  fruit  is  formed  on  a  part  of  a  branch  below  a  leaf- 
bud,  it  must  perish, 

220.  Unless  there  is  some  active  vegetation  in  the  stem  above  the  branch 
on  which  it  grows  ;  when  it  may  possibly  live  and  feed  upon  secretions 
attracted  by  it  from  the  main  stem. 

221.  But  inferior  fruit,  consisting  at  least  of  the  calyx  in  addition  to 
the  pistillum,  has  a  much  more  powerful  communication  with  the  branch ; 
each  division  of  its  calyx  having  at  lead  one  bundle  of  vascular  and 
fibrous  tissue,  passing  from  it  into  tiic  branch,  and  acting  as  a  stay  upon 
the  centre  to  prevent  its  breaking  off. 

222.  Such  fruit  may  be  supposed  much  more  capable  of  establishing  a 
means  of  attracting  secretions  from  a  distance  ;  and,  consequently,  is  less 
liable  to  perish  from  want  of  a  supply  of  food. 

223.  It  is  therefore  not  so  important  that  an  inferior  fruit  should  be  fur- 
nished with  growing  branches  above  it. 

224.  Fruit  is  exclusively  fed  by  the  secretions  prepared  for  it  by  other 
parts  ;  it  is  therefore  alTected  by  nearly  tlie  same  circumstances  as  flowers. 

22.5.  It  will  be  large  in  proportion  to  the  quantity  of  food  the  stem  can 
BUpply  to  it ;  and  small  in  proportion  to  the  inability  of  the  stem  to  nourish  it. 

226.  For  this  reason,  when  trees  are  weak  they  should  be  allowed  to 
bear  very  little,  if  any,  fruit ;  because  a  crop  of  fruit  can  only  tend  to  in- 
crease their  debility. 

227.  And  in  all  cases  each  fruit  should  be  so  far  separated  from  all  others 
as  not  to  be  robbed  of  its  food  by  those  in  its  vicinity. 

228.  We  find  that  nature  has  herself  in  some  measure  provided  against 
injury  to  plants  by  excessive  fecundity,  in  giving  them  a  power  of  throw- 
ing otf  flowers,  the  fruit  of  which  cannot  be  supported. 

229.  The  flavour  of  fruit  depends  upon  the  existence  of  certain  secre- 
tions, especinlly  of  acid  and  sugar  ;  flavour  will,  consequently,  be  regulated 
by  the  circumstances  under  which  fruit  is  ripened. 

230.  The  ripening  of  fruit  is  the  conversion  of  acid  and  other  substances 
into  sugar. 

231.  As  the  latter  substance  cannot  be  obtained  at  all  in  the  dark,  is  less 
abundant  in  fruit  ripened  in  diffused  light,  and  most  abundant  in  fruit  ex- 
posed to  the  direct  rays  of  the  sun,  the  conversion  of  matter  into  sugar 
occurs  under  the  same  circumstances  as  the  decomposition  of  carbonic  acid 
(141  and  279). 

232.  Therefore,  if  fruit  be  produced  in  situations  much  exposed  to  the 
sun,  its  sweetness  will  be  augmented. 


SEED.  133 

233.  And  in  proportion  as  it  is  deprived  of  the  sun's  direct  rays,  that 
quality  will  dimmish. 

234.  So  that  a  fruit  which,  when  exposed  to  the  sun,  is  sweet,  when 
grown  where  no  direct  light  will  reach  it  will  be  acid  ;  as  Pears,  Cherries,  &c. 

235.  Hence  acidity  may  be  corrected  by  exposure  to  light ;  and  excess- 
ive sweetness,  or  insipidity,  by  removal  from  light. 

236.  It  is  the  property  of  succulent  fruits  which  are  acid  when  wild,  to 
acquire  sweetness  when  cultivated,  losing  part  of  their  acid. 

237.  This  probably  arises  from  the  augmentation  of  the  cellular  tissue, 
which  possibly  has  a  greater  power  tlian  woody  or  vascular  tissue  of  assist- 
ing in  the  formation  of  sugar. 

23S.  As  a  certam  quantity  of  acid  is  essential  to  render  fruit  agreeable 
to  the  palate,  and  as  it  is  tlie  property  of  cultivated  fruits  to  add  to  their 
saccharine  matter,  but  not  to  form  more  acid  than  when  wild  ;  it  follows, 
that  in  selecting  wild  fruits  for  domestication,  those  which  are  acid  should 
be  preferred,  and  those  which  are  sweet  or  insipid  rejected; 

239.  Unless  recourse  is  had  to  hybridism  ;  when  a  wild  insipid  fruit 
may  possibly  be  improved  (,204),  or  may  be  the  means  of  improving 
something  else. 

240.  It  is  very  much  upon  such  considerations  as  the  foregoing  that  tlifl 
rules  of  training  must  depend. 

IX.  Seed. 

241.  The  seed  is  the  ovulum  arrived  at  perfection. 

242.  It  consists  of  an  integument  enclosing  an  embryo,  which  is  the 
rudiment  of  a  future  plant. 

243.  The  seed  is  nourished  by  the  same  means  as  the  fruit ;  and,  like 
it,  will  be  more  or  less  perfectly  formed,  according  to  the  abundance  of  its 
nutriment. 

244.  The  plant  developed  from  the  embryo  in  the  seed,  will  be  in  all 
essential  particulars  like  its  parent  species, 

245.  Unless  its  nature  has  been  changed  by  hybridizing  (204). 

246.  But  although  it  will  certainly,  under  ordinary  circumstances,  repro- 
duce its  species,  it  will  by  no  means  uniformly  reproduce  the  particular 
variety  by  which  it  was  borne. 

247.  So  that  seed  are  not  the  proper  means  of  propagating  varieties. 

248.  Nevertheless,  in  annual  or  biennial  plants,  no  means  can  be  em- 
ployed for  propagating  a  variety,  except  the  seed  ;  and  yet  the  variety  is 
preserved. 

249.  This  is  accomplished  solely  by  the  great  care  of  the  cultivator,  and 
happens  thus  : 

250.  Although  a  seed  will  not  absolutely  propagate  the  individual,  yet 
as  a  seed  will  partai.e  more  of  tlie  nature  of  its  actual  parent  than  of  any 
thing  else,  its  progeny  may  be  expected,  as  really  happens,  to  resemble  the 
variety  from  which  it  sprung,  more  than  any  other  variety  of  its  species ; 

251.  Provided  its  purity  has  not  been  contaminated  by  the  intermix- 
ture of  other  varieties. 

252.  By  a  careful  eradication  of  all  the  varieties  from  the  neighbourhood 
of  that  from  which  seed  is  to  be  saved  ;  by  taking  care  tliat  none  but  the 
most  genuine  forms  of  a  variety  are  preserved  as  seed-plants  ;  anil  by  com* 


134  SAF. 

pelling  by  transplantation  a  plant  to  expend  all  its  accumulated  sap  in  the 
nourishment  of  its  seed,  instead  of  in  the  superabundant  production  of 
foliage,  a  crop  of  seed  may  be  procured,  the  plants  produced  by  which  will, 
in  a  great  measure,  have  the  peculiar  properties  of  the  parent  variety. 

253.  By  a  series  of  progressive  seed-savings  upon  the  same  plan,  plants 
will  be  at  length  obtained,  in  which  the  habits  of  the  individual  have 
become  as  it  were  fixed,  and  capable  of  such  exact  reproduction  by  seed,  as 
to  form  an  exception  to  the  general  rule  ;  as  in  Turnips,  Uadishes,  &c. 

254.  But  if  the  least  neglect  occurs  in  taking  the  necessary  precautions 
(252)  to  ensure  a  uniform  crop  of  seed,  possessing  the  new  fixed  proper- 
ties, tiie  race  becomes  deteriorated,  in  proportion  to  the  want  of  care  that 
has  occurred,  and  loses  its  ch  iracters  of  individuality. 

255.  In  all  varieties  those  seed  may  be  expected  to  preserve  their  indi- 
vidual characters  most  distinctly  which  have  been  the  best  nourished  (243) ; 
it  is,  consequently,  those  which  should  be  selected  in  preference  for  raising 
new  plants,  from  which  seed  is  to  be  saved. 

256.  When  seed  are  first  ripened,  their  embryo  is  a  mass  of  cellular  sub- 
stance, containing  starch,  fixed  carbon,  or  other  solid  matter,  in  its  cavities; 
and  in  this  state  it  will  remain  until  fitting  circumstances  occur  to  call  it 
into  active  life. 

257.  These  fitting  circumstances  are,  a  temperature  above  32°  Fahrenheit, 
a  moist  medium,  darkness,  and  exposure  to  air. 

258.  It  then  absorbs  the  moisture  of  the  medium  in  which  it  lies,  inhales 
oxygen  (278),  and  undergoes  certain  chemical  changes;  its  vital  powers 
cause  it  to  ascend  by  one  extremity  for  the  purpose  of  finding  light,  and 
of  decomposing  its  carbonic  acid  1279),  by  parting  with  its  accumulated 
oxygen,  and  to  descend  by  the  other  extremity  for  the  purpose  of  finding 
a  constant  supply  of  crude  nutriment. 

259.  Unless  these  conditions  are  maintained,  seed  cannot  germinate; 
and,  consequently,  an  exposure  to  light  is  fatal  to  their  embryo,  because 
(278)  oxygen  will  not  be  absorbed  in  suflicient  quantity  to  stimulate  the 
vital  powers  of  the  embryo  into  action,  for  the  purpose  of  parting  with  it 
again,  by  the  decomposition  of  the  carbonic  acid  that  has  been  formed  dur- 
ing its  accumulation. 

X.  Sap. 

260.  The  fluid  matter  which  is  absorbed  either  from  the  earth  or  from 
the  air  is  called  sap. 

261.  When  it  first  enters  a  plant  it  consists  of  water  holding  certain 
principles,  especially  carbonic  acid,  in  solution. 

262.  These  principles  chiefly  consist  of  animal  or  vegetable  matter  in  a 
state  of  decomposition,  and  are  energetic  in  proportion  to  their  solubility, 
or  tendency  to  form  carbonic  acid  by  combining  with  the  oxygen  of  the  air. 

263.  Sap  soon  afterward  acquires  the  nature  of  mucilage  or  sugar,  and 
subsequently  becomes  still  farther  altered  by  the  admixture  of  such  soluble 
matter  as  it  receives  in  passing  in  its  route  through  the  alburnum  or  newly 
formed  woody  tissue  (65). 

264.  When  it  reaches  the  vicinity  of  the  leaves  it  is  attracted  into  them, 
and  there,  having  been  exposed  to  light  and  air,  is  converted  into  the  secre- 
tions peculiar  to  the  species. 


AIR    AND    LIGHT.  135 

265.  It  finally,  in  its  altered  state,  sinks  down  the  bark,  whence  it  is  given 
off  laterly  by  the  medullary  rays,  and  is  distributed  through  the  system. 

266.  No  solid  matter  whatever  can  be  taken  otT  by  the  roots  ;  for  this 
reason,  metals,  which  in  the  state  of  oxydes  are  poisonous,  are  perfectly 
harmless  in  their  metallic  state,  as  mercury  ;  and  this  is,  no  doubt,  the 
cause  why  liquid  manure,  which  contains  all  the  soluble  parts  of  manure 
in  a  fluid  state,  acts  with  so  much  more  energy  than  stimulating  substances 
in  a  solid  state. 

267.  The  cause  of  the  motion  of  the  sap  is  the  attraction  of  the  leaf- 
buds  and  leaves. 

268.  The  leaf-buds  called  into  growth  by  the  combined  action  of  tho 
increasing  temperature  and  light  of  spring,  decompose  their  carbonic  acid 
(279),  and  attract  fluid  from  the  tissue  immediately  below  them  ;  the  space 
BO  caused  is  tilled  up  by  fluid  again  attracted  from  below,  and  thus  a  motion 
gradually  takes  place  in  the  sap  from  one  extremity  to  the  other. 

269.  Consequently,  the  motion  of  the  sap  takes  place  first  in  the  branches 
and  last  in  the  roots. 

270.  For  this  reason,  a  branch  of  a  plant  subjected  to  a  high  tempera 
ture  in  winter,  will  grow  while  its  stem  is  exposed  to  a  very  low  tempera 
ture. 

271.  But  growth  under  such  circumetances  will  not  belong  maintained^ 
unless  the  roots  are  secured  from  the  rpach  of  frost  ;  for,  if  frozen  they 
cannot  act,  and  will  consequently  be  unable  to  replace  the  sap  of  which  the 
stem  is  emptied  by  the  attraction  of  the  buds  converted  into  branches,  and 
by  the  perspiration  of  the  leaves  (XII.) 

272.  Whatever  tends  to  inspissate  the  sap,  such  as  a  dry  and  heated 
atmosphere,  or  an  interruption  of  its  rapid  flow,  or  a  great  decomposition 
of  carbonic  acid,  by  full  exposure  to  light,  has  the  property  of  causing  ex- 
cessive vigour  to  be  diminished,  and  flower-buds  to  be  produced. 

273.  While,  on  the  other  hand,  whatever  tends  to  dilute  the  sap,  such 
as  a  damp  atmosphere,  a  free  and  uninterrupted  circulation,  or  a  great  accu- 
mulation of  oxygen  in  consequence  of  the  imperfect  decomposition  of  car- 
bonic acid,  has  the  property  of  causing  excessively  rapid  growth,  and  an 
exclusive  production  of  leaf-buds. 

274.  Inspissated  or  accumulated  sap  is,  therefore,  a  great  cause  of  fertility. 

275.  And  thin  fluid,  not  being  elaborated,  is  a  great  cause  of  sterility. 

276.  The  conversion  of  sap  into  ditTerent  kinds  of  secretion  is  effected 
by  the  combined  action  of  Air  (XI.),  Light  (XI.),  and  Temperature. 

XL  Air  and  Light. 

277.  When  an  embryo  plant  (242)  is  formed  within  its  integuments,  it 
is  usually  colourless,  or  nearly  so  ;  but,  as  soon  as  it  begins  to  grow,  that 
part  which  approaches  the  light  (the  stem)  becomes  coloured,  while  the 
opposite  extremity  (the  root)  remains  colourless. 

278.  The  parts  exposed  to  the  air  absorb  oxygen  at  night,  absorb  car- 
bonic acid  and  part  with  oxygen  again  in  daylight ;  and  thus  in  the  day- 
lime  purify  the  air,  and  render  it  fit  for  the  respiration  of  man. 

279.  The  intensity  of  this  latter  phenomenon  is  in  proportion  to  the 
intensity  of  solar  light  to  which  leaves  are  directly  exposed. 

280.  Its  cause  is  the  decomposition  of  carbonic  acid,  the  extrication  of 


136  AIR   AND    LIGHT. 

oxygen,  and  the  acquisition  by  the  plant  of  carbon  in  a  solid  state ;  fVom 
which,  modified  by  the  peculiar  vital  actions  of  species,  colour  and  secre- 
tions are  supposed  to  result. 

281.  For  it  is  found  that  the  intensity  of  colour,  and  the  quantity  of 
secretions,  are  in  i)roportion  to  the  exposure  to  light  and  air,  as  is  shown 
by  the  deeper  colour  of  the  upper  sides  of  leaves,  &c. 

283.  And  by  the  fact  that  if  plants  be  grown  in  air  from  which  light  is 
excluded,  neither  colour  nor  secretions  are  formed,  as  is  exemplified  in 
blanched  vegetables  ;  which,  if  even  naturally  poisonous,  may,  from  want 
of  exposure  to  ligiit,  become  wholesome,  as  Celery. 

283.  When  any  colour  appears  in  parts  developed  in  the  dark,  it  is  gen- 
erally caused  by  the  absorption  of  such  colouring  matter  as  pre-existed  in 
the  root  or  other  body  from  which  the  blanched  shoot  proceeds,  as  in  some 
kinds  of  Rhubarb  when  forced. 

254.  Or  bv  the  deposition  of  colouring  matter  formed  by  parts  developed 
in  light,  as  in  the  subterranean  roots  of  Beet,  Carrots,  &c. 

2So.  What  is  true  of  colour  is  also  true  of  flavour,  which  equally  de- 
pends upon  light  for  its  existence  ;  because  flavour  is  produced  by  chemi- 
cal alterations  in  the  sap  caused  by  exposure  to  light  (2-29). 

286.  The  same  thing  occurs  in  regard  to  nutritive  matter,  which  in  like 
manner  is  formed  by  exposure  of  leaves  to  light.  Thus  the  Potato  when 
forced  in  dark  houses,  contains  no  more  amylaceous  matter  than  previously 
existed  in  the  original  tuber;  but  acquires  it  in  abundance  when  placed  in 
the  light,  and  deposites  it  in  proportion  as  it  is  influenced  by  light  and  air. 
Thus,  also,  if  Peaches  are  grown  in  wooden  houses,  at  a  distance  from  the 
light,  they  will  form  so  little  nutritive  matter  as  to  be  unable  to  support  a 
crop  of  fruit,  the  greater  part  of  which  will  fall  off.  And  for  a  similar 
reason,  it  is  only  the  outside  shoots  of  standard  fruit  trees  that  bear  fruit. 
Considerations  of  this  kind  form  in  partthe  basis  of  pruning  and  training. 

287.  Light  is  the  most  powerful  stimulus  that  can  be  employed  to  ex- 
cite the  vital  actions  of  plants,  and  its  energy  is  in  proportion  to  its  intens- 
ity ;  so  that  the  direct  rays  of  the  sun  will  produce  much  more  powerful 
effects  than  the  diffused  light  of  day. 

255.  Hence,  if  buds  that  are  very  excitable  are  placed  in  a  diffused  light, 
their  excitability  will  be  checked. 

289.  And  if  buds  that  are  very  torpid  are  exposed  to  direct  light,  they 
will  be  stimulated  into  action. 

290.  So  that  what  parts  of  a  tree  shall  first  begin  to  grow  in  the  spring 
may  be  determined  at  the  will  of  the  cultivator. 

291.  This  is  the  key  to  some  important  practices  in  forcing. 

292.  This  should  also  cause  attention  to  be  paid  to  shading  buds  from 
the  direct  rays  of  the  sun  in  particular  cases  ;  as  in  that  of  cuttings,  whose 
buds,  if  too  rapidly  excited,  might  exhaust  their  only  reservoir  of  sap,  the 
stem,  before  new  roots  were  formed  to  repair  such  loss. 

293.  As  plants  derive  an  essential  part  of  their  food  from  the  air  (280) 
by  the  action  of  light,  it  follows  that  in  glass  houses  those  which  admit 
the  greatest  portion  of  light  are  the  best  adapted  for  purposes  of  cultiva- 
tion. 

294.  The  proportion  of  opaque  matter  in  the  roof  of  a  glass  house  con- 
structed of  wood  varies  from  one  third  to  one  seventh  ;  that  of  an  iron 
house  does  not  exceed  one  twenty-tliird. 


PERSPm\TION.  137 

295.  Therefore,  iron-roofed  houses  are  in  this  respect  better  suited  for 
cultivation  than  wooden-roofed  houses. 

296.  And  it  has  been  found  by  experiment,  that  light  passes  more  freely 
through  a  curvilinear  than  through  a  plane  roof,  and  through  glass  forming 
an  acute  angle  with  the  horizon  than  through  perpendicular  glass,  it  follows 
that  a  curvilinear  roof  is  best,  and  a  plane  roof  with  glass  perpendicular 
sides  the  worst,  adapted  to  the  purposes  of  the  cultivator. 

297.  For  the  same  reason  common  green  glass  is  less  fitted  for  glazing 
forcing-houses  than  white  crown  glass. 

29S.  Poisonous  gases  in  very  minute  quantities  act  upon  vegetation  with 
great  energy.  A  ten  thousandth  part  of  sulphurous  acid  gas  is  quickly  fatal 
to  the  life  of  plants ;  and  hence  tlie  danger  of  Hues  heated  by  coal  fires, 
and  the  impossibility  of  making  many  species  grow  in  the  vicinity  of 
houses  heated  by  coal  fires,  or  in  large  towns. 

XII.  Perspiration. 

299.  It  is  not,  however,  exclusively  by  the  action  of  light  and  air  that 
the  nature  of  sap  is  altered.  Evaporation  is  constantly  going  on  during  the 
growth  of  a  plant,  and  sometimes  is  so  copious,  thit  an  individual  will 
perspire  its  own  weight  of  water  in  the  course  of  twenty-four  hours. 

300.  The  loss  thus  occasioned  by  the  leaves  is  supplied  by  crude  fluid, 
absorbed  by  the  roots,  and  conveyed  up  the  stem  witli  great  rapidity. 

301.  The  consequence  of  su'-h  copious  perspiration  is  the  separation 
and  solidification  of  the  carbonized  matter  that  is  produced  for  the  peculiar 
secretions  of  a  species. 

302.  For  the  maintenance  of  a  plant  in  health,  it  is  indispensable  that 
the  supply  of  fluid  by  the  roots  should  be  continual  and  uninterrupted. 

303.  If  any  thing  causes  perspiration  to  take  place  faster  than  it  can  be 
counteracted  by  the  absorption  of  fluid  from  the  earth,  plants  will  be  dried 
up  and  perish. 

304.  Such  causes  are,  destruction  of  spongioles,  an  insufficient  quantity 
of  fluid  in  the  soil,  an  exposure  of  the  spongioles  to  occasional  dryness, 
and  a  dry  atmosphere. 

305.  The  most  ready  means  of  counteracting  the  evil  consequences  of 
an  imperfect  action  of  the  roots  is  by  preventing  or  diminishing  evapora- 
tion. 

306.  This  is  to  be  efTected  by  rendering  the  atmosphere  extremely  humid. 

307.  Thus,  in  curvilinear  iron  hot-houses,  in  which  the  atmosphere  be- 
comes so  dry  in  consequence  of  the  heat,  that  plants  perish,  it  is  necessary 
that  the  air  sliould  be  rendered  extremely  humid,  by  throwing  water  upon 
pavement,  or  by  introducing  steam. 

308.  And  in  transplantation  in  dry  weather,  evergreens,  or  plants  in  leaf, 
oflen  die,  because  the  spongioles  are  destroyed,  or  so  far  injured  in  the 
operation  as  to  be  unable  to  act,  while  the  leaves  never  cease  to  perspire. 

309.  The  greater  certainty  of  transplanting  plants  that  have  been  grow- 
ing in  pots,  is  from  this  latter  circumstance  intelligible. 

310.  While  the  utility  of  putting  cuttings  or  newly  transplanted  seed- 
lings into  a  shady  damp  atmosphere,  is  explained  by  the  necessity  of  hin- 
dering evaporation. 


138  CUTTINGS. 

XIII.  Cuttings. 

311.  When  a  separate  portion  of  a  plant  is  caused  to  produce  new  roots 
and  branches,  and  to  increase  an  individual,  it  is  a  cutting. 

312.  Cuttings  are  of  two  sorts:  cuttings  properly  so  called,  and  eyes 
^319). 

313.  A  cutting  consists  of  an  internodia,  or  a  part  of  one,  with  its 
nodi  ;.59;  and  leaf  bud. 

314.  When  the  internodia  is  plunged  in  the  earth  it  attracts  fluid  from 
the  soil,  and  nourishes  the  bud  until  it  can  feed  itself. 

315.  The  bud,  feeding  at  first  upon  the  matter  in  the  internodia,  grad- 
ually enlon^ates  upward  into  a  branch,  and  sends  organized  matter  down- 
ward, which  becomes  roots. 

316.  As  soon  as  it  has  established  a  communication  with  the  soil,  it  be- 
comes a  new  individual,  exactly  like  that  from  which  it  was  taken. 

317.  As  it  is  the  actioti  of  the  leaf-buds  that  causes  erowth  in  a  cutting, 
it  follows  that  no  cutting  without  a  leaf-bud  will  grow  ; 

318.  I'nless  the  cuttm?  has  great  vitality  and  power  of  forming  adven- 
titous  leaf-buds  (119),  which  sometimes  happens. 

319.  An  eye  is  a  leaf  bud  without  an  internodia. 

320.  It  only  differs  from  a  cutting  in  having  no  reservoir  of  food  on 
which  to  exist,  and  in  emitting  its  roots  immediately  from  the  base  of  the 
leaf- bud  into  the  soil. 

321.  As  cuttings  will  very  often,  if  not  always,  develope  leaves  before 
any  powerful  connection  is  formed  between  them  and  the  soil,  they  are 
peculiarly  liable  to  suffer  from  perspiration. 

322.  Hence  the  importance  of  maintaining  their  atmosphere  in  an  uni- 
form state  of  humidity,  as  is  effected  by  putting  bell  or  otber  glasses  over 
them. 

323.  In  this  case,  however,  it  is  necessary  that  if  air-tight  covers  are 
employed,  such  as  bell-glasses,  they  should  be  from  time  to  time  removed 
and  replaced,  for  the  sake  of  getting  rid  of  excessive  humidity, 

324.  Layers  differ  from  cuttings  in  nothing  except  that  they  strike  root 
into  the  soil  while  yet  adhering  to  the  parent  plant. 

325.  Whatever  is  true  of  cuttings  is  true  of  layers,  except  that  the  latter 
are  net  hable  to  suffer  by  evaporation,  because  of  their  communication  with 
the  parent  plant. 

326.  As  cuttings  strike  roots  into  the  earth  by  the  action  of  leaves  or  leaf- 
buds,  it  misht  be  supposed  that  they  will  strike  most  readily  when  the 
leaves  or  leaf-buds  are  in  their  greatest  vigour. 

327.  Nevertheless,  this  power  is  controlled  so  much  by  the  peculiar  vital 
powers  of  different  species,  and  by  secondary  considerations,  that  it  is  im- 
possible to  say  that  this  is  an  absolute  rule. 

328.  Thus  Dahlias  and  otiier  herbaceous  plants  will  strike  root  freely 
when  cuttings  are  very  young  ;  and  Heaths.  Azaleas,  and  other  hard-wooded 
plants,  only  wlien  the  wood  has  just  begun  to  harden. 

329.  The  fDrmer  is,  probably,  owing  to  some  specific  vital  excitability, 
the  force  of  which  we  cannot  appreciate  ;  the  latter  either  to  a  kind  of 
torpor,  which  seems  to  seize  such  plants  when  the  tissue  is  once  emptied 
of  fluid,  or  to  a  natural  slowness  to  send  downward  woody  matter,  whether 
for  wood  or  not,  which  is  the  real  cause  of  their  wood  being  harder. 

12* 


scioxs.  139 

330.  If  ripened  cuttings  are  upon  the  whole  the  most  fitted  for  multi- 
plication, it  is  because  their  tissue  is  less  absorbent  than  when  younger  and 
that  they  are  less  likely  to  suffer  eitiier  from  repletion  or  evaporation. 

33  I.  For,  to  gorge  tissue  with  food,  before  leaves  are  in  action  to  decom- 
pose and  assimilate  it,  is  as  prejudicial  as  to  empty  tissue  by  the  action  of 
leaves,  before  spongioles  are  prepared  to  replenish  it. 

332.  For  this  reason,  pure  silex,  in  which  no  stimulating  substances  are 
contained  (silver  sand),  is  the  best  adapted  for  promoting  the  rooting  of 
cuttings  that  strike  with  difficulty. 

333.  And  for  the  same  reason,  cuttings  with  what  gardeners  call  a  heel 
to  them,  or  a  piece  of  the  older  wood,  strike  root  more  readily  than  such 
as  are  not  so  protected.  The  greater  age  of  the  tissue  of  the  heel  renders 
it  less  absorbent  than  tissue  that  is  altogether  newly  formed. 

334.  It  is  to  avoid  the  bad  eflect  of  evaporation  that  leaves  are  usually 
for  the  most  part  removed  from  a  cutting,  when  it  is  first  prepared. 

XIV.  Scioxs. 

335.  A  scion  is  a  cutting  (311)  which  is  caused  to  grow  upon  another 
plant,  and  not  in  the  earth. 

3:^6.  Scions  are  of  two  sorts  :  scions  properly  so  called,  and  buds  (354). 

337.  Whatever  is  true  of  cuttings  is  true  also  of  scions,  all  circum- 
stances being  equal. 

33S.  When  a  scion  is  adapted  to  another  plant,  it  attracts  fluid  from  it 
for  the  nourishment  of  its  leaf-buds  until  they  can  feed  themselves. 

339.  Its  leaf-buds  thus  fed,  gradually  grow  upward  into  branches,  and 
send  woody  matter  downward,  which  is  analagous  to  roots. 

340.  At  the  same  time,  the  cellular  substance  of  the  scion  and  its  stock 
adheres  (19),  so  as  to  fi)rm  a  complete  organic  union. 

341.  The  woody  matter  descending  from  the  bud  passes  through  the 
cellular  substance  into  the  stock,  where  it  occupies  the  same  situation  as 
would  have  been  occupied  by  woody  matter  supplied  by  buds  belonging  to 
the  stock  itself. 

342.  Once  united,  the  scion  covers  the  wood  of  the  stock  with  new 
wood,  and  causes  the  production  of  new  roots. 

343.  But  the  character  of  the  woody  matter  sent  down  by  the  scion 
over  the  wood  of  the  stock  being  determined  by  the  cellular  substance, 
which  has  exclusively  a  horizontal  developement  (73).  it  follows  that  the 
wood  of  the  stock  will  always  remain  apparently  the  same,  although  it  is 
furnished  by  the  scion. 

344.  Some  scions  will  grow  upon  a  stock  without  being  able  to  trans- 
mit any  woody  matter  into  it ;  as  some  Cacti. 

345.  When  this  happens,  the  adhesion  of  the  two  takes  place  by  the 
cellular  substance  only,  and  the  union  is  so  imperfect  that  a  slight  degree 
of  violence  suffices  to  dissever  them. 

346.  And  in  such  cases  the  buds  are  fed  by  their  woody  matter,  which 
absorbs  the  ascending  sap  from  the  stock  at  the  point  where  the  adhesion 
has  occurred  ;  and  the  latter,  never  augmenting  in  diameter,  is  finally  over- 
grown by  the  scion. 

347.  When,  in  such  instances,  the  communication  between  the  stock 


140  TRANSPLANTATION. 

and  the  scion  is  so  much   interrupted  that  the  sap  can  no  longer  ascend 
with  sufficient  rapidity  into  the  branches,  the  latter  die  ;  as  in  many  Peaches. 

348.  This  incomplete  union  between  the  scion  and  its  stock  is  owing  to 
some  constitutional  or  organic  difference  in  the  two. 

349.  Therefore,  care  should  be  taken  that  when  plants  are  grafted  on  one 
another,  their  constitution  should  be  as  nearly  as  possible  identical. 

350.  As  adhesion  of  only  an  imperfect  nature  takes  place  when  the  scion 
and  stock  are,  to  a  certain  degree,  dissimilar  in  constitution,  so  will  no  ad- 
hesion whatever  occur  when  their  constitutional  ditrerence  is  very  decided. 

351.  Hence  it  is  only  species  very  nearly  allied  in  nature  that  can  be 
grafted  on  each  other. 

352.  As  only  similar  tissues  will  unite  (19),  it  is  necessary,  in  applying 
a  scion  to  the  stock,  that  similar  parts  should  be  carefully  adapted  to  each 
other  ;  as  bark  to  bark,  cambium  to  cambium,  alburnum  to  alburnum. 

353.  The  second  is  more  especially  requisite,  because  it  is  through  the 
cambium  that  the  woody  matter  sent  downward  by  the  buds  must  pass; 
and  also  because  cambium  itself,  being  organizing  matter  in  an  incipient 
state,  will  more  readily  form  an  adhesion  than  any  other  part. 

354.  The  same  principles  apply  to  buds,  which  are  to  scions  precisely 
what  eyes  (319)  are  to  cuttings. 

355.  Inarching  is  the  same  with  reference  to  gi'afting,  that  layering  (324) 
is  with  reference  to  striking  by  cuttings. 

356.  It  serves  to  maintain  the  vitality  of  a  scion  until  it  can  form  an 
adhesion  with  its  stock  ;  and  must  be  considered  the  most  certain  mode 
of  grafting. 

357.  It  is  probable  that  every  species  of  flowering  plant,  without  excep- 
tion, may  be  multiplied  by  grafting. 

358.  Nevertheless,  there  are  many  species  and  even  tribes  that  never 
have  been  grafted. 

359.  It  has  been  found  that  in  the  Vine  and  the  Walnut  this  difliculty 
can  be  overcome  by  attention  to  their  peculiar  constitutions  ;  and  it  is  pro- 
bable that  the  same  attention  will  remove  supposed  difficulties  in  the  case 
of  other  species. 

XV.  Transplantation. 

360.  Transplantation  consists  in  removing  a  plant  from  the  soil  in  which 
it  is  growing  to  some  other  soil. 

361.  If  in  the  operation  the  plant  is  torpid,  and  its  spongioles  uninjured, 
the  removal  will  not  be  productive  of  any  interruption  to  the  previous 
rate  of  growth. 

362.  And  if  it  is  growing,  or  evergreen,  and  the  spongioles  are  uninjured, 
the  removal  will  produce  no  farther  injury  than  may  arise  from  the  tem- 
porary suspension  of  the  action  of  the  spongioles,  and  the  non-cessation 
of  perspiration  during  the  operation. 

363.  So  that  transplantations  may  take  place  at  all  seasons  of  the  year, 
and  under  all  circumstances,  provided  the  spongioles  are  uninjured. 

364.  This  applies  to  the  largest  trees  as  well  as  to  the  smallest  herbs. 

365.  But  as  it  is  impossible  to  take  plants  out  of  tne  earth  without 
destroying  or  injuring  the  spongioles,  the  evil  consequence  of  such  acci- 
dents must  be  remedied  by  the  hinderance  of  evaporation. 


MONTHLY    CALENDAR.  141 

366.  Transplantation  should  therefore  take  place  only  when  plants  are 
torpid,  and  when  their  respiratory  organs  (leaves)  are  absent ;  or,  if  they 
never  lose  those  organs,  as  evergreens,  only  at  seasons  when  the  atmosphere 
is  periodically  charged  witii  humidity  for  some  considerable  time. 

367.  Old  trees,  in  which  the  roots  are  much  injured,  form  new  ones  so 
slowly,  that  they  are  very  liable  to  be  exhausted  of  sap  by  the  absorption 
of  their  very  numerous  young  buds  before  new  spongioles  can  be  formed. 

36S.  The  amputation  of  all  their  upper  extremities  is  the  most  probable 
prevention  of  death  ;  but  in  most  cases  injury  of  their  roots  is  without  a 
remedy. 

369.  Plants  in  pots  being  so  circumstanced  that  the  spongioles  are  pro- 
tected from  injury,  can,  however,  be  transplanted  at  all  seasons  without 
any  dangerous  consequences. 


INTRODUCTION. 


TO    THE 


MONTHLY    CALENDAR 


The  object  of  the  following  Calendar  is  to  fumish,  in  a  con- 
densed form,  monthly  directions  for  the  culture  of  some  plants 
not  previously  mentioned  in  this  work;  and  also  to  direct  the 
reader's  attention  to  the  rfegular  management  of  such  plants 
as  have  been  heretofore  treated  of.  In  pursuit  of  the  latter 
object,  references  will  be  made  to  former  pages,  so  as  to 
exhibit,  at  one  view,  the  business  of  the  garden  in  each 
month  of  the  year.  The  figures  indicate  the  pages  in  which 
farther  directions  may  be  found  relative  to  the  operations 
referred  to. 


742  MONTHLY    CALENDAR. 

JANUARY. 

Winter's  white  sheet  now  covers  earth's  cold  bed  ; 
Pride  of  our  home,  the  lovely  Flowers,  are  dead; 
Some  early  venturers  vpould  the  aspect  cheer, 
The  first-born  children  of  the  dawning  year. 

Having  shown,  in  page  100,  that  heat,  air,  and  water  are 
the  food  of  plants,  and  necessary  to  the  preservation  of  their 
health  and  life,  if  given  in  due  proportion  according  to  cir- 
cumstances, I  would,  at  this  season  of  the  year,  especially, 
salute  the  gardener  with  "  Be  ye  temperate  in  all  things." 

Temperance  in  the  use  of  water  is  of  the  utmost  import- 
ance in  the  winter  season,  for  several  reasons  which  maybe 
given.  In  the  first  place,  water  will  attract  frost,  and,  there- 
fore, should  be  used  very  sparingly  in  frosty  weather; 
another  consideration  is,  that  in  the  absence  of  heat  and  air, 
plants  cannot  absorb  much  moistuj'e,  and,  consequently,  must 
become  injured  from  excessive  Avatering;  and  it  may  be 
observed  farther,  that  it  is  not  prudent  to  keep  plants  in  an 
extremely  vigorous  state,  until  the  season  arrives  when  the 
external  air  is  soft  and  salubrious ;  they  can  then  have  a  due 
proportion  of  heat,  air,  and  moisture  at  the  same  time. 

Perhaps  the  next  important  point  to  be  attended  to  at  this 
time  is,  to  see  that  the  green-house,  or  room,  in  which  plants 
are  intended  to  be  preserved,  is  calculated  for  the  pm"pose. 
The  room  should  be  light  and  airy,  and  yet  so  secure  as  to 
prevent  the  intrusion  of  external  cold  air,  or  the  depaJture 
of  warm  air  in  the  night  season. 

A  Fahrenheit  thermometer  is  indispensable  in  a  green- 
house, or  room,  where  plants  are  kept,  and  the  temperature 
should  be  always  kept  up  as  nearly  as  possible  to  forty  degrees, 
in  the  absence  of  the  sun.  If  the  gardener  retire  to  rest  in 
this  variable  climate,  leaving  the  mercury  much  below  forty, 
he  may  expect  to  find  his  plants  frozen  in  the  morning. 

A  good  brick  flue  is  better  calculated  for  heating  a  small 
green-house  than  any  other  contrivance ;  because,  after  a 
sufficient  fire  has  been  made  to  heat  the  bricks  thoroughly, 


MONTHLY    CALENDAR.  143 

they  will  retain  the  heat  through  a  winter  night,  whereas  an 
iron  stove  with  its  metal  pipes  will  cool  as  the  fire  gets  low, 
and  expose  the  plants  to  cold  toward  morning,  which  is  the 
time  they  most  need  protection.  The  heat  from  iron  is, 
moreover,  too  dry  and  parching,  while  an  evajioration  or 
salubrious  steam  may  be  raised  from  bricks,  by  sprinkling 
the  flue  occasionally,  which  would  operate  on  plants  similar 
to  healthful  dew-drops. 

At  this  season  of  the  year,  sitting-rooms,  or  parlours, 
are  generally  heated  in  the  daytime  to  full  twenty  degrees 
higher  than  what  is  necessary  for  the  preservation  of  plants  ; 
consequently,  as  the  heat  decreases  in  the  night  season, 
plants  often  get  injured,  unless  a  fire  is  kept  up.  Air  must 
be  admitted  to  plants  kept  in  this  way,  at  all  opportunities; 
and  more  water  will  be  necessary  for  such  plants,  than  those 
kept  in  a  green-house  would  require.  For  the  management 
of  bulbous  roots  in  pots  or  glasses,  the  reader  is  refeired  to 
page  94. 


FEBRUARY. 

Like  shivering  orphans  on  the  wide  world  cast, 
They  feel  the  rigour  of  the  Northern  blast, 
Whilst  Fortune's  Favourites  claim  the  florist's  care, 
And  all  the  comforts  of  the  green-house  share. 

Having  in  the  previous  month  discussed  some  important 
points  relative  to  the  general  care  of  plants,  I  now  proceed 
to  notice  a  iew  of  those  kinds  that  require  attention  at  this 
particular  season : 

Camellias^  or  Japan  Roses.  There  are  numerous  varieties 
of  this  valuable  class  of  plants,  exhibiting  every  shade  of 
colour,  from  deep  crimson  to  the  purest  white  ;  in  some 
imperceptibly  blended,  in  others  strikingly  contrasted.  They 
are  unrivalled  objects  of  beauty  from  October  to  May,  being 
set  in  a  fine  glossy  foliage. 


144  MONTHLY    CALENDAR. 

Double  Camellias  are  generally  propagated  on  stocks  of 
the  single,  which  are  procured  by  planting  cuttings  of  the 
young  shoots  in  light  mould  under  bell  glasses ;  on  these, 
when  grown  to  a  sufficient  size,  are  inarched  the  finer  kinds 
of  double.  Sometimes  these  latter  are  also  struck  by  cut- 
tings ;  but  as  their  progress  by  such  method  is  generally 
slow  and  uncertain,  it  is  seldom  resorted  to.  These  valuable 
plants  are  too  often  injured  by  amateurs,  from  misapplied 
care  bestowed  upon  them,  so  that  their  whole  compensation 
and  enjoyment  is  reduced  to  the  mere  possession  of  a  hand- 
some green  shrub.  Destined,  from  the  extreme  beauty  and 
unrivalled  delicacy  of  their  flowers,  to  become  the  chief 
pride  and  ornament  of  the  green-house  and  drawing-room 
in  the  winter  season,  Camellias  should  have  a  fair  chance 
given  them  to  exhibit  their  fine  bloom  in  perfection. 

It  should  be  observed,  that  Camellias  are  by  no  means 
tender  shrubs,  but  require  to  be  kept  in  a  medium,  even 
temperature,  and  they  generally  succeed  best  in  a  green- 
house, where  the  atmosphere  is  damp.  As  the  buds  begin 
to  swell,  they  will  require  more  water  than  at  any  other  time, 
which  may  be  applied  from  the  rose  of  a  watering-pot,  or 
syringe,  while  in  bud,  but  when  in  blossom  it  should  be  ap- 
plied to  the  earth. 

If  Camellias  be  kept  where  there  is  a  dry  air,  occasioned 
from  fire  heat,  they  must  have  plenty  of  the  natural  air  at 
all  opportunities,  or  the  buds  will  become  brown  and  fall 
off;  and  if  they  are  subject  to  extreme  cold  at  night,  which 
is  too  often  the  case  when  kept  in  rooms  of  an  uneven 
temperature,  premature  decay  of  the  buds  will  inevitably  be 
the  consequence. 

To  preserve  Camellias  in  a  healthy  condition,  they  should 
be  kept  in  a  fresh,  moderately  light  soil,  consisting  of  sandy 
loam  taken  from  under  grass  sods,  and  leaf  mould  well 
mixed ;  nothing  being  more  injurious  to  them  than  over- 
potting  ;  they  should  not  be  shifted  into  larger  pots,  until  the 
projection  of  their  roots  show  evidently  that  they  are  in  need 


MONTHLY    CALENDAR.  ]45 

of  it.  Few  plants  bear  privation  of  sunshine  in  summer 
better  than  these ;  they  should,  however,  be  kept  in  an  open 
situation,  where  they  can  have  a  full  share  of  light  and  air. 

Such  bulbous  roots  as  may  be  in  progress  of  blooming, 
will  require  attention  this  month  ;  turn  them  frequently  to 
the  light,  as  recommended  in  page  95,  and  increase  the  sup- 
plies of  water  as  they  advance  toward  perfection. 

Attend  to  Campanula  Fyraiuidulis,  Hepeticas,  Mhmilus, 
Se7iec{os,  and  herbaceous  plants  in  general ;  those  not  in  bud 
should  be  watered  very  sparingly.  Shrubby  plants,  espe- 
cially those  which  bud  and  blossom  in  winter,  and  the  early 
part  of  spring,  as  the  several  varieties  of  the  Acacias,  Aza- 
leas, Calceolarias,  Correas,  Coronillas,  Daphnes,  Diosmas, 
Eupatoriums,  Eutaxias,  Fuchsias,  Gnidias,  Heaths,  Laurus- 
tinuses.  Lemon  trees,  Rhododendrons,  Orange  trees,  &c., 
will  require  water  once  or  twice  a  week,  according  to  cir- 
cumstances, and  air  should  be  given  at  all  opportunities,  or 
the  plants  will  not  blossom  in  perfection. 

For  the  benefit  of  such  as  may  wish  to  raise  early  plants 
from  seed,  or  to  force  Dahlia  or  other  roots,  I  subjoin  the 
following  brief  directions  for  making  a  small  hot-bed  :  In  a 
border  exposed  to  the  morning  sun,  let  a  pit  be  dug  about 
thirty  inches  deep,  five  feet  wide,  and  six  long ;  this  will 
admit  of  two  sashes,  each  three  feet  by  five.  A  frame  of 
suitable  dimensions  may  be  made  of  plank  ;  the  back  plank 
may  be  two  feet  wide,  and  the  end  ones  sloped  so  as  to 
make  a  fifteen-inch  plank  do  for  the  front.  The  frame  being 
made,  set  it  over  the  pit,  and  then  get  a  load  of  horse  dung, 
fresh  from  the  livery  stables,  (not  such  as  has  lain  long,  or 
may  have  been  soddened  with  water,)  spread  it  evenly  in 
the  pit  until  full,  then  put  into  the  frame  rich  light  mould, 
or  compost,  to  the  depth  of  ten  or  twelve  inches,  and  the 
seed  may  be  sown  as  soon  as  it  gets  warm.  It  may  be 
necessary  to  observe,  that  in  making  hot-beds,  the  quantity 
of  top  mould  should  be  regulated  according  to  the  substance 
of  the  manure  in  the  pit,  and  this  may  vary  according  to  the 

13 


146  MONTHLY    CALENDAR. 

use  the  beds  are  intended  for,  or  to  other  circumstances. 
After  the  seed  are  sown,  the  beds  will  lequire  constant  atten- 
tion; cover  up  warm  in  cold  nights,  and  give  air  at  all  oppor- 
tunities, to  prevent  the  plants  from  growing  weak. 

As  we  are  subject  to  northwest  winds  at  this  season,  which 
produce  extreme  freezing,  it  will  be  better  to  delay  the 
makint^  of  hot-beds  to  the  first  week  in  March,  at  which  time 
opportunities  will  fiequently  offer  of  giving  plants  a  tolera- 
ble share  of  salubrious  air,  which  is  indispensable  to  their 
preservation. 


MARCH. 

The  "  Yellow  Crocus"  in  her  simple  dress. 
And  the  "pale  Primrose,"  chaste  in  loveliness, 
Thoutih  the  fierce  Stortn  Kins;  rides  upon  the  gale, 
Foretel    of  Spring,  'midst  snow  and  cutting  had. 

As  the  spring  progresses,  the  external  air  will  be  soft  and 
salubrious ;  at  which  time  it  should  be  freely  admitted  to 
plants  kept  in  rooms  and  green-houses.  In  proportion  as  the 
plants  get  air,  they  should  have  water  applied  from  the  rose 
of  a  watering-pot. 

Monthly  Roses  will  require  attention  this  month.  It  should 
be  recollected,  that  it  is  from  the  young  wood  of  these  plants 
that  buds  are  to  be  expected ;  their  growth  should,  there- 
fore, be  encouraged,  by  admitting  sun  and  air  at  all  oppor- 
tunities, and  water  when  necessary. 

Primulas.  There  are  several  species  of  plants  under  this 
name,  which  exhibit  their  blossoms  in  March  and  April ; 
some  of  which  are  very  beautiful,  as  the  Polyanthus,  English 
Spring  Flowers,  Auricula,  &c. ;  but  I  would  now  direct  the 
reader's  attention  to  the  Chinese  varieties,  some  of  which 
are  pure  white,  and  others  of  a  lilac  colour.  They  are  first 
raised  from  seed  sown  in  the  spring,  and  will  keep  two  or 
three  years. 


MONTHLY    CALENDAR.  147 

Plants  that  are  full  grown,  will  commence  blooming  in 
December,  and  continue  to  produce  umbels  of  flowers  for 
five  or  six  months,  if  well  attended  to ;  they  are  generally  in 
their  prime  this  month,  at  which  time  a  little  water  should 
be  applied  to  the  earth  about  twice  a  week. 

Many  species  and  varieties  of  seed  may  be  sown  this  month 
in  hot-beds  prepared  as  directed  under  the  head  February, 
page  145. 

Auricula,  Polyanthus,  and  all  other  species  of  Primula 
seed,  should  now  be  sown.  Mignonette,  Ten  Week  Stock, 
and  Dahlia  seed,  from  choice  varieties,  may  also  be  sown  in 
pots,  and  care  should  be  taken,  when  the  plants  are  up,  that 
they  be  not  injured  by  excess  of  moisture. 

There  are  some  splendid  varieties  of  the  Schizanthus 
which  deserve  attention  at  an  early  season.  They  are  rather 
difficult  of  cultivation  in  pots,  being  apt  to  suffer  by  excess 
of  heat  or  moisture ;  and  often,  when  in  full  bloom,  die  off 
suddenly  by  decays  at  the  bottom  of  tlie  stem.  No  plants 
will,  however,  more  amply  repay  all  the  care  and  trouble 
that  may  be  bestowed  on  them,  than  those  of  the  elegant 
genus  Schizanthus.  The  best  soil  for  them  is  loam  and  leaf 
mould,  with  a  small  portion  of  sand.  They  should  be  re- 
potted as  often  as  the  pots  are  filled  with  roots,  till  they 
come  into  full  flower. 

All  the  different  varieties  of  tender  annual,  biennial,  and 
perennial  flower  seed,  designated  thus  §  and  thus  t  in  our 
Catalogues,  pages  18  and  30,  may  be  sown  this  month  in 
hot-beds,  or  in  pots  kept  in  the  green-house. 

Hyacinths,  Narcissus,  and  other  bulbs  in  glasses,  must 
have  the  water  shifted  every  week,  and  the  glasses  should 
be  thoroughly  washed  every  two  or  three  weeks,  96. 

Toward  the  end  of  the  month,  roots  of  .itnanjlUs  formo- 
sissima,  Gladiolus  psiltacinna,  Tiger  Flowei',  Tuberose,  and 
such  other  bulbs  as  may  have  been  preserved  dry  through 
the  winter,  may  now  be  planted  in  pots  and  kept  in  a  green- 
house or  light  room,  or  else  plunged  in  a  hot-bed.     Those 


148  MONTHLY    CALENDAR. 

who  have  no  such  conveniences  may,  however,  delay  the 
planting  of  sound  bulbs,  until  the  weather  will  admit  of  their 
being  planted  in  warm  borders. 

Dahlia  roots  should  now  be  plunged  in  a  hot-bed,  to  for- 
ward them,  with  a  view  to  their  being  separated,  as  soon  as 
the  eyes  are  discernible,  77. 


APRIL. 


As  Nature  feels  the  sun's  life-giving  rays. 
And  genial  showers  now  mark  the  lengthen'd  days, 
Buds  and  sweet  blossoms,  redolent  of  Spring, 
To  meditation  soothing  moments  bring. 

This  is  the  most  important  month  in  the  year  for  gardening 
operations.  If  not  done  toward  the  end  of  the  last  month, 
the  covering  must  be  taken  from  hardy  flowering  plants 
early  in  this  month,  and  the  beds  and  borders  attended  to  as 
directed,  pages  22  and  37  ;  at  the  same  time,  clip  edgings  of 
box,  and  clean,  re-lay,  or  make  new  gravel  walks,  &:c.,  15  ; 
prune  and  transplant  flowering  shrubs,  39  and  53 ;  trans- 
plant also  hardy  herbaceous  plants,  34  and  35. 

Sow  flower  seed ;  the  hardiest  may  be  sown  in  the  open 
borders,  and  the  tender  in  hot-beds,  23  and  33. 

All  the  soil  of  a  garden  should  be  dug  this  month,  if  pos- 
sible, and  pulverized  as  directed,  22  and  65. 

It  will  be  necessary  to  look  over  all  the  green-house  plants 
in  the  early  part  of  this  month  ;  let  them  be  deprived  of 
dead  wood,  if  any,  by  a  careful  pruning ;  at  the  same  time 
take  off"  all  yellow  leaves  ;  the  earth  at  the  top  of  the  pots 
should  be  loosened,  so  as  to  admit  the  sun  and  air  to  the 
roots  of  the  plants,  99  and  101. 

If  insects  prevail  on  Roses  or  other  plants,  a  fumigation 
with  tobacco  will  be  necessary. 

Bulbous  roots  will  require  some  attention  this  month  ; 
those  in  bloom  in  the  garden  should  be  tied  up  to  wires  or 


» 

MONTHLY    CALENDAR.  149 

small  sticks ;  and  those  kept  inside   should  be  watered  in 
proportion  as  they  get  heat  and  air. 

The  CalJa,  or  Ethiopian  Lily,  and  the  different  varieties 
of  Rhododendrons,  will  need  frequent  watering  while  in  bud 
and  blossom. 

Air  must  be  admitted  freely  to  all  green-house  plants 
toward  the  end  of  this  month,  in  order  to  prepare  them  for 
the  exposure  of  the  open  garden  next  month. 

For  the  method  of  managing  DahUa  roots,  see  page  77  ; 
prepare  to  plant  tender  bulbous  roots  toward  the  end  of  this, 
or  early  in  the  next  month.  The  following  should  be  for- 
warded in  pots,  which  may  be  kept  in  a  green-house  or  warm 
room,  or  they  may  be  plunged  in  a  hot-bed :  Amaryllises, 
67  ;  Gladioluses,  80 ;  Lihes,  84  ;  Tuberoses,  92 ;  Tiger 
Flowers,  93. 

Hydrangeas,  Pomegranates,  Verbenas,  and  other  decidu- 
ous shrubby  plants,  should  be  cultivated  early  in  this  month, 
to  promote  the  production  of  leaf  and  flower-buds. 

Biennial  seed,  such  as  Wall  Flower  and  Stock  Gilly Flower, 
also  all  kinds  of  tender  perennials,  should  be  sown  this 
month,  if  not  previously  done  in  the  green-house,  or  in  hot- 
beds, 23,  33,  and  103. 

For  an  exhibition  of  the  order  of  the  flowering  tribe  in 
this  month  and  the  next,  the  reader  is  referred  to  an  article, 
entitled  '  The  Beauties  of  April  and  May,'  pages  54  to  62. 


MAY. 


The  blue  ey'd  May,  rejoicing  in  her  train, 
Spreads  her  grei  n  mantle  o'er  the  grove  and  plain  ; 
Frt)m  beds  of  Violets  grateful  odours  rise 
In  fragrant  incense  to  benignant  skies. 

As  the  warm  weather  progresses,  the  gardener  should  be 
on  the  alert,  in  order  to  conquer  the  various  kinds  of  insects. 
Burn  tobacco  leaves  in  the  green-house,  so  as  to  fumigate 

13* 


150  MONTHLY    CALENDAR, 

the  plants  well,  before  they  are  removed  into  the  open  gar- 
den ;  and  such  plants  as  may  show  any  indications  of  being 
infested  with  the  eggs  of  insects,  should  be  sponged  with 
Boapsuds,  and  afterward  well  syringed  and  watered.  Fre- 
quent sprinkling  from  the  rose  of  a  watering-pot  will  pre- 
vent insects  from  accumulating;  especially  if  the  water  be 
impregnated  with  tobacco,  by  a  bag  of  the  leaves  being 
steeped  therein  a  few  hours  previous  to  using  it. 

Choice  Geraniums  will  need  attention  this  month,  in  order 
that  they  may  exhibit  their  flowers  to  advantage.  When  in 
full  bloom,  care  should  be  taken  not  to  wet  the  foliage  or 
flowers ;  but  this  may  be  done  freely  before  the  buds  are 
expanded. 

If  awnings  were  not  provided  last  month  for  the  protec- 
tion of  choice  flowers,  it  should  be  attended  to  early  in  this 
month,  69,  81,  and  92;  plant  Amaryllises,  68;  Double 
Dahhas,  78  and  79  ;  Gladioluses,  80 ;  Lilies,  84 ;  Tuberose, 
92  ;  Tiger  Flowers,  93  ;  sow  annual,  biennial,  and  perennial 
flower  seed  in  the  open  borders,  23  to  33.  Attend  to  the 
walks,  edgings,  &c.,  and  see  that  tall  plants  are  neatly  tied 
to  sticks,  wires,  or  stakes,  15,  21,  79,  and  81.  Procure  and 
plant  such  perennial  plants  as  may  be  necessary  to  make 
variety  in  the  flower  beds,  34. 

Green-house  plants  may  be  set  out  about  the  middle  of 
the  month,  and  it  should  be  done  in  cloudy  weather,  in  order 
that  they  may  be  prepared  gradually  for  the  shining  of  the 
Bun  upon  them.  A  situation  exposed  to  the  sun  for  only  one 
half  the  day  is  preferable  for  most  plants,  especially  if  they 
can  be  shaded  at  noon,  35. 

Many  plants,  such  as  Coronillas,  Heaths,  Aucubas,  Mjt- 
tles,  Oleanders,  and  several  other  sorts,  are  subject  to  be  in- 
fested with  white  and  brown  scaly  insects ;  if  these  cannot 
be  effectually  taken  from  the  plants  by  washing  and  spung- 
ing,  let  the  plants  be  headed  down  early  in  the  month  of 
May,  and  if  they  are  well  attended  to,  new  branches  "vvill 
shoot  out  on  the  old  stem. 


MONTHLY    CALENDAR.  151 

Such  Orange  trees  as  were  budded  last  July  or  August, 
should  be  headed  down  eaily  in  this  month. 

Auriculas,  Polyanthus,  and  Daisies,  should  be  separated 
into  single  tufts,  and  planted  in  a  shady  border  for  increase, 
as  soon  as  they  have  done  blossoming. 

Such  Carnations  as  may  have  been  wintered  in  frames 
should  now  be  exposed  to  the  open  air,  in  the  flower  borders. 

Tulips,  which  will  be  in  full  peifection  by  the  middle  of 
this  month,  will  require  constant  attention. 

Such  green-house  plants  as  may  have  done  blossoming 
may  be  pruned  this  month,  and  if  the  cuttings  be  planted  at 
this  time  they  will  strike  freely,  101. 

Cuttino-s  of  Salvia  splendens  and  fulgens  will  produce 
strong  plants  for  blossoming  in  August,  if  planted  early  in 
this  month.  Chrysanthemum  cuttings  should  now  be  put 
down,  and  the  suckers  divided,  and  planted  singly  in  bor» 
ders,  or  in  pots,  for  flowering  in  the  autumn,  102. 


JUNE. 


The  blushing  glory  and  the  pride  of  June, 
Blooms  the  red  Ruse — why  should  it  fade  so  soon! 
E'en  the  gay  Tulip  finds  a  rival  here. 
Though  rich  in  tints,  warm,  delicate,  and  clear. 

The  principal  sowing  season  may  be  considered  as  past ; 
but  if  any  failures  should  have  happened  of  former  sowings, 
seed  may  be  sown  the  early  part  of  this  month,  which,  if 
kept  watered  occasionally,  will  grow  quickly. 

Green-house  plants  will  need  watering  every  evening,  in 
dry  warm  weather ;  and  in  the  absence  of  dews,  some  sorts 
may  need  a  little  in  the  morning  at  sunrise,  100  ;  Hydran- 
geas, Daisies,  Polyanthus,  Primulas,  &c.,  should  be  kept 
shaded  from  the  noonday  sun,  or  they  will  droop,  and  some 
may  die.  Carnations  and  Pinks  will  need  frequent  waterings 
at  the  roots,  and  the  branches  should  be  tied  neatly  to  rods 


152  MONTHLY    CALENDAR. 

Such  flowering  shrubs  as  may  have  been  planted  late  in 
the  spring  season,  should  be  regulaily  watered  in  dry  weather. 
Give  frequent  waterings  to  the  flower  beds,  in  general ;  cut 
down  dead  flower  stalks  ;  remove  decayed  plants,  and  care- 
fully replace  them  with  vigorous  ones  from  the  nursery  bed. 
Transplant  annual  flower  plants  into  the  legular  beds  with 
a  small  trowel,  or  neat  dibble,  27. 

Plant  Colchicums,  70 ;  finish  planting  Dahlias,  and  pro- 
vide poles  for  their  support,  78  and  79 ;  water  them  occa- 
sionally in  dry  weather. 

Many  sorts  of  bulbous  roots  will  be  ripe  by  the  end  of  this 
month  ;  these  should  be  taken  up  and  dried  as  directed, 
page  65.  Those  cultivated  in  pots  should  not  be  watered 
after  the  foliage  is  decayed,  until  the  period  of  re-germina- 
tion takes  place,  66  and  94. 

Numerous  beautiful  flowers  exhibit  themselves  this  month, 
some  of  which  are  noticed  in  an  article,  entitled  *  The 
Beauties  of  April  and  May,'  page  54  to  62.  There  are, 
however,  several  others  worthy  of  notice,  which  are  omitted 
in  that  article.  The  several  species  of  Phlox  are  remarka- 
bly showy  plants,  and  very  desirable  to  cultivate,  as  they 
blossom  in  their  several  varieties  the  whole  season.  Beside 
these,  are  the  splendid  varieties  of  Roses,  Pinks,  Lychnises, 
Sweet  Williams,  Fox  Gloves,  Snap-dragons,  Perennial  Lu- 
pins, Verbenas,  Veronicas,  Valerians,  &c.  These  should  all 
be  attended  to,  and  their  branches  tied  to  neat  stakes,  so  as 
to  enable  them  to  exhibit  their  flowers  to  the  gi'eatest  possi- 
ble advantage. 

Dahlias  that  are  intended  for  blossoming  this  year  should 
be  planted  by  the  middle  of  this  month,  if  not  done  before,  78. 


MONTHLY    CALENDAR.  153 

JULY. 

pinks  and  Carnations,  ye  are  fair  to  view, 
Creative  wisdom  stiines  in  every  hue ; 
Ye  raise  tlie  mind,  improve  the  liuman  heart, 
And  goodly  precepts  gracefully  impart. 

Green-house  plants  will  need  daily  care  at  this  season; 
let  them  be  watered  every  evening  in  dry  weather.  Such 
Geraniums  as  may  have  grown  large  and  unwieldly,  should 
now  be  pruned,  in  order  that  their  size  a-'id  appearance  may 
be  improved,  101. 

Garden  Roses,  having  done  flowering  for  the  season, 
should  also  be  pruned.  Cut  out  all  old  exhausted  wood,  and 
where  it  is  too  thick  and  crowded, shorten  such  shoots  as  have 
flowered,  to  a  good  fresh  .strong  eye,  or  bud,  accompanied 
with  a  healthy  leaf  A^l  wood  that  grows  after  this  pruning 
will  ripen  perfectly,  ^nd  produce  large  flowers  the  ensuing 

year. 

If  dry  warm  weather,  it  may  be  necessary  to  water  such 
flowerino-  shruV  ''.nd  Roses  as  were  planted  in  the  spring; 
and  if  Dahli^  plants  could  be  watered  two  or  three  times  a 
week  it  y'^uld  be  beneficial  to  their  growth.  Give  regular 
Bnrinkl>'^S'''  fr^na  the  rose  of  a  watering-pot,  or  syringe,  to 
shn^l^y  plaits  in  general,  but  particularly  Camellias,  Orange 
a,.d  Lemon  trees,  &c.,  in  order  to  keep  them  in  a  healthy 
'state. 

Such  bulbous  roots  in  pots,  whose  foliage  have  withered, 
should  be  kept  dry  until  the  period  of  re-germination,  66 
and  94 ;  others  may  be  taken  up  as  soon  as  ripe,  after  which 
the  offsets  may  be  parted  off,  and  both  these  and  the  parent 
bulbs  dried  for  planting  in  autumn,  65. 

The  flower  garden  should  be  kept  weeded  and  watered, 
and  the  seed  gathered  as  they  ripen  ;  apply  neat  rods  to  tall- 
growing  and  running  kinds  of  plants.  Nip  off  curled  and 
dead  leaves,  and  destroy  insects,  15. 

Oranoe  and  Lemon  trees  may  be  budded  at  any  time  tins 
month,  and  those  which  were  headed  down  in  the  spring 


154  MONTHLY    CALENDAR. 

ebould  be  examined,  and  all  superfluous  shoots  must  be 
pruned  off  with  a  sharp  knife,  leaving  only  the  strongest; 
the  tops  of  which  should  be  pruned  off  to  promote  their 
branching.  Myrtles,  Oleanders,  and  such  other  plants  as  may 
have  been  headed  down  in  May,  will  need  similar  treatment. 
Carnations,  Pinks,  Pansies,  Running  Verbenas,  &c.,  may 
be  layed  this  month  for  propagation,  33  and  34  ;  many 
kinds  of  cuttings,  as  Geraniums,  Roses,  and  exotic  shrubs, 
may  still  be  planted  with  success,  50. 


AUQUST. 

Brief  is  the  mission  of  tht,  fragile  Flowers  ; 
Some  droop  and  die  e'er  clo&».  the  sunny  hours  ; 
Just  as  a  maiden,  in  life's  opeiang  bloom, 
Lamented  sinks  into  an  eariy  toi»b. 

Green-house  plants  will  need  paiticu'iar  attention  this 
month.  They  should  be  watered  eveiy  evening  in  dry 
weather,  and  as  soon  as  the  extreme  heat  (f.  the  summer  is 
past,  which  is  generally  by  the  latter  end  of  t.ig  month,  or 
early  in  the  next,  preparation  must  be  made  foi  veplenish- 
ing  with  fresh  compost,  and  re-potting  such  plants  a.  are  in- 
tended to  be  cultivated  through  the  winter  in  a  green-louse, 
light  room,  or  garden  frames.  Previous  to  the  comment,, 
ment  of  this  business,  let  such  compost  as  is  suited  to  the 
various  kinds  of  plants  be  provided,  101. 

Those  who  may  have  a  number  of  plants  in  various  sized 
pots,  should  provide  a  few  new  pots  a  size  larger  than  the 
largest  in  use  ;  the  largest  plants  being  shifted  into  the  new 
pots,  leaves  the  next  sized  pots  for  the  second-sized  plants, 
and  by  pursuing  this  plan  of  shifting  until  the  whole  are 
done,  the  smallest  pots  will  be  left  for  such  plants  as  have 
been  propagated  in  the  course  of  the  summer. 

The  shifting  of  plants  requires  considerable  attention  and 
judgment,  as  some  ]3lants,  if  kept  in  too  large  pots,  v^i^  sus- 
tain considerable  injury :  therefore,  in  such  cases,  where  the 


MONTHLY   CALENDAR.  155 

fibrous  roots  have  not  spread  around  the  pot,  nothing  more 
is  necessary  than  to  rub  off  a  little  of  the  outside  mould,  and 
then  to  substitute  fresh  compost  for  the  roots  to  run  in. 

Such  plants  as  may  have  become  pot-bound,  and  whose 
roots  are  matted  around  the  ])ot,  will,  in  many  cases,  bear 
reducing.  If  the  matted  roots  are  carefully  pared  off,  and 
the  plants  shifted  into  good  fresh  compost,  they  will  soon  take 
root,  and  grow  freely  ;  but  it  will  be  necessary  to  prune  off 
all  surplus  bi'anches  of  the  plants  previous  to  re-potling  them, 
and  to  shade  them  for  a  week  or  teu  days. 

Pieces  of  tile,  or  broken  pots,  should  be  laid  over  the  aper- 
ture at  the  bottom  of  the  pots,  to  enable  the  surplus  moisture 
to  drain  off,  or  the  roots  will  sustain  injury. 

The  flower  beds  will  need  attention  this  month.  Water 
Dahlias  and  (Jther  choice  plants  in  dry  weather;  cut  down 
all  decayed  flower  stalks,  as  soon  as  the  seed  is  gathered,  and 
pull  up  annuals  as  they  cease  to  flower. 

Plant  Oxalises  in  small  pots,  86,  and  prepare  compost  for 
other  tender  bulbs  to  be  planted  in  pots  next  month. 

Rose  shrubs.  Orange,  and  Lemon  trees,  &c.,  &c.,  should 
be  budded  early  in  this  month,  if  not  done  before. 


SEPTEMBER. 

still  some  with  vigour  lift  their  lordly  heads, 
Imparting  .splendour  to  their  cultured  heds, 
In  lustrous  colours  decked,  they  proudly  shine. 
And  look  enchanting  to  their  last  decline. 

Such  green-house  plants  as  may  have  been  re-potted  and 
pruned  in  the  course  of  the  last  month,  should  be  looked 
over,  and  if  they  have  taken  root,  they  should  be  exposed 
gradually  to  the  sun,  and  watered  moderately  in  dry  \veather. 

If  any  of  the  green-house  plants  were  plunged  in  the  flower 
beds,  they  should  be  taken  up  and  pruned  early  iu  tliis 
month,  and  then  put  into  suitable  sized  pots,  35. 


156  MONTHLY    CALENDAR. 

Half-hardy  perennials,  such  as  Carnations,  Daisies,  Pri- 
mulas.  Lilies,  Hydrangeas,  &c.,  should  be  taken  up,  divided 
carefully  at  the  roots,  and  then  put  into  moderate  sized  pots, 
and  attended  to  as  before  directed  for  green-house  plants. 
*  Many  hardy  kinds  of  flower  seed  may  be  sown  this  month, 
24  and  34.  This  is  a  good  season  to  propagate  all  kinds  of 
hardy  perennial  plants,  by  parting  the  roots  ;  and  those  that 
were  raised  from  seed  in  the  spiing,  may  be  transplanted 
into  regular  flower  beds,  in  cloudy  or  wet  weather,  27  and 
35.  Plant  Crown  Imperials,  69;  Persian  Cyclamens,  70 ; 
Ixias,  82  ;  Lachenalias,  83  ;  Lilies,  84  ;  Ornithogalums,  86  ; 
Oxalses,  86. 

Such  Chrysanthemums  as  are  intended  to  be  protected 
while  in  blossom,  should  now  be  taken  up  and  planted  in 
moderate  sized  pots,  102. 

Seeds  of  Schizanthus,  Ten-week  Stock,  Mignonette,  and 
such  other  species  as  may  be  desiied  to  decorate  the  parlor 
or  green-house,  should  be  sown  this  month,  103. 


OCTOBER. 

Ling'ring  and  lonely  on  their  trembling  stems. 
Surviving  yet,  are  Flora's  latest  gems  ; 
Their  hour  arrives,  brown  Autumn's  parting  breath 
Sighs  o'er  the  Dahlias  and  proclaims  their  death  ! 

In  the  early  part  of  this  month,  pi'eparation  must  be  made 
for  the  housing  of  green-house  plants.  Previous  to  this  being 
done,  let  the  room  fir  gi'een-house  be  whitewashed  with  lime, 
which  will  prove  pernicious  to  insects,  and  prevent  their 
generating  among  the  plants. 

Begin  the  first  week  in  this  month  to  place  all  the  shrubby 
plants,  such  as  Orange  and  Lemon  tiees,  on  the  back  shelves; 
others  should  be  so  placed  that  they  can  be  cultivated  to 
advantage,  and  they  should  all  be  arranged  in  regular  grada- 
tion, so  as  to  have  the  low-growing  or  dwarf  plants  on  the 
front  shelves. 


MONTHLY    CALKNDAR.  157 

Stock  Gillies  and  Wall  Fowers  should  he  taken  up,  potted, 
and  kept  In  a  shady  situation  until  they  have  taken  root. 

Such  Dahlia  plants  as  have  heen  cultivated  in  pots  should 
be  sheltered  from  the  chilling  air,  and  those  in  the  ground 
will  need  attention,  65  and  G6. 

Piepare  the  giound  for  all  the  hardy  kinds  of  hulbuus 
flower  roots,  64  and  65.  Toward  the  end  of  the  month  plant 
Anemones  and  Ranunculuses,  68;  Crocuses,  69;  Crown 
Imperials,  69  ;  Gladioluses,  80;  Hyacinths,  81  ;  Irises,  82; 
Ixias,  82  ;  Jonquils,  83  ;  Lilies,  84  ;  Narcissus,  85  ;  Omitho- 
galums,  86  ;  Paeonies,  87  ;  Tulips,  92.  For  the  management 
of  bulbous  roots  in  pots  and  glasses,  see  pages  94  to  96. 
Prune  floweiing  shrubs,  and  make  new  plantations  of  them, 
53. 

Chrysanthemums  should  be  neatly  tied  up  to  small  sticks, 
and  watered  occasionally  with  liquid  manure,  to  promote 
their  blossoming  in  full  perfection.  Those  in  pots  intended 
to  be  protected  for  late  flowering,  should  be  watched  and 
taken  in,  on  the  appearance  of  a  frosty  night ;  they  may, 
however,  be  exposed  to  the  air  as  much  as  possible  when  it  is 
soft  and  salubrious,  as  should  all  other  half-hardy  plants,  101 
and  102. 


NOVEMBER. 

As  the  sweet  flowers — men  flourish  and  decay; 
Howe'er  tliey  shine  they  quickly  pass  away; 
If  Virtue  bless'd  them  in  their  mortal  lot, 
Each  lias  an  epitaph,  "  Furgct  me  not" 

During  the  continuance  of  mild  weather,  green-house 
plants  should  have  air  at  all  opportunities,  and  water  in  pro- 
portion as  heat  and  air  are  attainable,  99  and  100.  Bulbous 
roots  in  pots  and  glasses  will  also  need  attention,  94  to  96. 

Half-hardy  plants,  such  as  Stock  Gillies,  Wall  Flowers, 
Carnatic»ns,  Primulas,  Hydrangeas,  Daisies,  &c.,  must  cither 
be  placed  in  frames  or  in  a  green-house  early  in  this  month. 

14 


158  MONTHLY    CALENDAR. 

If  Dahlia,  Tuberose,  and  other  tender  roots  were  not 
taken  up  last  month,  let  it  be  done  in  due  time  this  month, 
65  and  66. 

Cover  up  flower  beds  with  leaves,  straw,  or  light  litter,  37  ; 
finish  planting  bulbous  roots  before  the  frost  sets  in.  Plant 
Anemones  and  Ranunculuses,  68;  Crocuses,  69;  Hyacinths, 
81 ;  Irises,  82  ;  Ixias,  82  ;  Jonquils,  83 ;  Lihes,  84  ;  Narcissus, 
85 ;  Peeonies,  87 ;  Tulip,  88  to  92.  These,  and  all  other 
kinds  of  plants,  will  need  protection  before  the  setting  in 
of  the  winter,  65  and  66.  Flowering  and  ornamental  shrubs 
may  be  planted  in  mild  weather,  53 ;  lay  long  litter  round 
the  roots  of  them,  and  also  of  the  Grape  vines  and  other 
tender  plants,  shrubs,  &c. 

Before  the  winter  .sets  in  severely,  let  such  Chrysanthe- 
mums as  may  have  been  cultivated  in  pots  be  planted  in  the 
garden,  or  as  soon  as  they  have  done  blossoming,  102. 

Plant  Gladioluses  in  p(!ts,  80;  also  such  other  bulbous 
roots  as  may  be  required  to  be  kept  in  rooms,  page  95. 

Mignonette,  and  other  tender  seedling  plants  under  pro- 
tection, will  require  attention  at  this  season ;  they  should 
not  be  over-watered,  or  the  plants  will  perish  with  mildew. 

Camelhas  should  be  frequently  syringed  while  in  bud,  or 
watered  over  the  foliage  with  a  rose  attached  to  the  water- 
ing pot,  as  should  all  other  shrubby  plants. 


DECEMBER. 

Descending  snow,  the  yellow  leaf  and  sear. 
Are  indications  of  old  Time's  career ; 
The  careful  florist  tends  his  sheltered  plants, 
Studies  their  nature,  and  supplies  their  wants. 

If  all  was  not  done  as  directed  last  month,  there  is  now 
no  time  to  be  lost.  All  kinds  of  tender  plants  in  pots  should 
be  aet  into  frames  or  pits,  and  plunged  in  old  tan  or  light 
mould ;  and  in  the  event  of  severe  frosts,  coverings  of  mats, 
straw,  &c.,  must  be  laid  over  them. 


MONTHLY    CALENDAR.  159 

Green-house  plants  will  need  constant  care  and  attention. 
When  water  is  necessary,  let  it  be  given  in  mild  weather,  99. 
In  case  of  accidents  happening  from  frost,  I  would  remark, 
that  the  sudden  transition  from  cold  to  heat  is  often  more  de- 
structive to  plants  than  frost  itself.  If  plants  get  frozen,  and 
cannot  be  screened  from  the  rays  of  the  sun,  they  should  be 
watered  as  the  air  gets  warm,  and  before  they  begin  to  thaw. 
If  sufficient  attention  be  paid,  so  as  to  have  the  temperature 
of  the  house  rise  gradually  as  the  water  is  sprinkled  over 
the  leaves,  it  may  be  a  means  of  preserving  plants  that  would 
otherwise  be  destroyed. 

See  that  the  green-house,  or  room,  in  which  plants  are 
kept,  is  so  secure  as  to  prevent  the  intrusion  of  cold  air,  or 
the  departure  of  warm  air  in  the  night  season. 

Collect  from  heaths  and  rocks  such  kinds  of  earth  as  are 
suited  to  the  different  species  of  exotic  plants,  and  gather 
up  leaves  of  trees.  If  you  intend  to  make  hot-beds  of  them, 
they  should  be  put  together  dry  ;  but  if  you  intend  them  for 
compost,  they  may  be  laid  together  as  wet  as  possible,  in 
order  that  they  may  rot,  for  use  in  succeeding  years. 


160  THE    MATRIMONIAL    GARDEN. 

The  Author  has  appended  the  following  article,  entitled 
'  The  Matrimonial  Garden,*  under  the  impression  that  it 
was  appropriate  to  the  subject  treated  of  in  this  work,  and 
would  prove  acceptable  to  most  of  his  readers,  especially 
to  the  fair  sex. 


THE 


MATRIMONIAL     GARDEN. 


Man  is  formed  for  social  enjoyment,  and  if  it  be  allowed 
that  "  It  is  not  good  for  man  to  be  alone,"  it  may  be  justly 
infeiTed  that  it  is  not  good  for  woman  to  be  alone  ;  hence  a 
union  of  interests  indicates  a  union  of  persons  for  their  mu- 
tual benefit.  By  this  union,  a  soit  of  seclusion  from  the  rest 
of  our  species  takes  place ;  and  as  a  garden  is  a  retired 
apartment,  appropriated  to  culture  and  improvement,  the 
mairied  state  may  not  inaptly  be  compared  with  it  in  many 
respects. 

It  is  good  and  honoui-able  for  the  human  species,  pru- 
dently and  cautiously  to  approach  this  delightful  enclosure. 
Its  entrance  is  usually  extremely  gay  and  glittering,  being 
strewed  with  flowers  of  every  hue  and  every  fragrance  cal- 
culated to  charm  the  eye  and  please  the  taste  ;  but  they  are 
not  all  so ;  and  as  there  are  many  persons  who  may  wish  to 
enter  this  garden  at  some  time  or  other,  who  are  yet  stran- 
gers to  its  various  productions,  their  attention  should  be  di- 
rected to  the  cultivation  of  those  plants  which  are  beneficial, 
and  to  the  avoiding  or  rooting  up  of  those  which  are  injurious. 


THE    MATRIMONIAL    GARDEN.  161 

And  first,  let  me  caution  adventurers  in  this  garden  not 
to  dream  of  permanent  happiness ;  if  you  should  so  dream, 
experience  will  soon  make  you  wiser,  as  such  happiness 
never  existed  but  in  the  heads  of  visionaries.  If  you  are 
desirous  that  this  garden  shall  yield  you  all  the  bliss  of  which 
it  is  capable,  you  must  take  with  you  that  excellent  ilovver 
called  Good  Humour,  which,  of  all  the  flowers  of  nature,  is 
the  most  delicious  and  delicate  ;  do  not  drop  it  or  lose  it,  as 
many  do,  soon  after  they  enter  the  garden ;  it  is  a  tieasure 
the  loss  of  which  nothing  can  supply.  When  you  get  to  the 
end  of  the  first  walk,  which  contains  about  thirty  steps,t  com- 
monly called  "  The  Honey  Moon  Path,"  you  will  find  the 
garden  open  into  a  vast  variety  of  views,  and  it  is  necessary 
to  caution  you  to  avoid  many  productions  here  which  are 
noxious,  nauseous,  and  even  fatal  in  their  nature  and  ten- 
dency, especially  to  the  ignorant  and  unwary.  There  is  a 
low,  small  plant,  which  may  be  seen  in  almost  every  path, 
called  Indifference.  Though  this  is  not  perceived  on  enter- 
ing, you  will  always  know  where  it  grows,  by  a  certain  cold- 
ness in  the  air  which  surrounds  it.  Contiary  to  the  nature 
of  plants  in  general,  this  grows  by  cold  and  dies  by  warmth; 
■whenever  you  perceive  this  change  in  the  air,  avoid  the  place 
as  soon  as  you  can.  In  the  same  path  is  often  found  that 
baneful  flower  called  Jealousy,  which  I  advise  y(ju  never  to 
look  at,  for  it  has  the  strange  quality  of  smiting  the  eye  that 
beholds  it  with  a  pain  that  is  seldom  or  never  got  rid  of. 
Jealousy  is  a  deadly  flower;  it  is  the  aconite  of  the  garden, 
and  has  marred  the  happiness  of  thousands. 

As  you  proceed,  you  will  meet  with  many  little  crooked 
paths.  I  advise  you,  as  a  friend,  never  to  go  into  them  ;  for 
although,  at  the  eiitrance  of  each,  it  is  written  in  large 
letters,  I  am  right,  if  you  do  enter,  and  get  to  the  end  of 
them,  you  will  find  the  true  name  to  be  Perverseness. 
These  crooked  paths  occasion  endless  disputes ;  and  as  it 
is  difficult  to  make  the  crooked  straight,  it  is  better  to  avoid 
t  Tliirty  days. 

14* 


162  THE    MATRIMONIAL    GARDEN. 

them  altogetlier,  lest,  as  sometimes  happens,  a  total  separa- 
tion be  the  consequence,  and  you  take  different  paths  the 
rest  of  your  lives.  Near  this  spot  you  will  meet  with  a 
rough,  sturdy  plant,  called  Obstinacy,  which  bears  a  hard, 
knotty  fruit  that  never  digests,  and  of  course  must  injure  the 
constitution  ;  it  even  becomes  fatal,  when  taken  in  large 
quantities.     Turn  from  it ;  avoid  it  as  you  would  the  cholera. 

Just  opposite  to  ibis  grows  that  lovely  and  lively  shrub 
called  Compliance,  which,  though  not  always  pleasant  to  the 
palate,  is  veiy  salutary,  and  leaves  a  sweetness  in  the  mouth  ; 
it  is  a  most  excellent  shrub,  and  produces  the  most  delicious 
fruit.  Never  be  without  a  very  large  sprig  in  your  hand ; 
it  will  often  be  wanted  as  you  go  along,  for  you  cannot  be 
happy  without  it  in  any  part  of  the  garden. 

In  one  of  the  principal  compartments  stands  a  very  im- 
portant plant,  called  Economy  ;  it  is  of  a  thriving  quality  ; 
cultivate  this  fine  plant  with  all  your  care,  for  it  adorns  and 
enriches  at  the  same  time.  Many  overlook  it,  some  despise 
it,  and  others  think  that  they  may  never  want  it ;  it  is  gene- 
rally overlooked  in  the  gayety  and  levity  with  which  people 
enter  this  place,  but  the  want  of  it  is  generally  deplored 
with  bitter  repentance.  There  are  two  other  plants  of  the 
Bame  species,  which  are  very  closely  connected,  called 
Industry  and  Frugality,  and  I  must  take  leave  to  tell  you, 
that  unless  both  the  male  and  the  female  partake  largely  of 
their  branches,  very  little  success  can  be  expected  ;  in  this 
they  must  both  unite.  Take  care  that  you  provide  yourself 
and  partner  witli  a  supply  of  each  as  soon  as  possible  after 
you  enter  the  garden. 

There  are  two  or  three  paths  which  run  much  into  one 
another ;  in  them  you  will  find  growing  interspersed  three 
plants,  which  deserve  the  closest  attention  of  the  softer  sex; 
these  are  called  Regularity,  Exactness,  and  Simplicity.! 
Do  not  think,  as  some  do,  tliat  when  you  have  once  got  into 
the  garden,  you  may  be  neglectful  of  these  plants.  Remem 
t  In  deporlinent  as  well  as  in  dress. 


THE    MATRIMONIAL    GARDEN.  163 

ber  that  your  companion  will  see  your  negUict,  which  will 
affect  his  eye,  and  may  alienate  his  heart.  Bestow  a  laro-e 
share  of  attention  on  these  plants,  then,  as  soon  as  you  enter 
the  garden,  for  when  you  are  once  fairly  in,  you  are  in  for 
life  ;  the  danger  is,  that  if  you  neglect  them  at  an  early 
period,  you  will  not  find  them  afterward. 

Near  these  walks  is  to  be  found  that  modest  plant,  called 
Humility  : 

It  is  the  Violet,  "  born  to  blush  unseen. 
And  waste  its  sweetness  on  the  desert  air." 

It  appears  of  little  worth  in  itself,  but  when  joined  to  other 
virtues,  it  adds  a  charm  to  life,  and  spreads  a  fragrance 
around  its  wearer.  Cultivate,  then,  with  all  your  care,  this 
sweet  little  plant,  and  you  will  find  it  prevent  the  growth  of 
all  poisonous  and  noxious  weeds. 

Allow  me  also  to  drop  a  hint  on  the  subject  of  Cultivation, 
as  connected  with  Propagation,  as  that  most  probably  will 
be  your  employment  in  this  garden,  sooner  or  later.  Should 
you  have  the  rearing  of  a  young  plant,  remember  that  it  is 
frail  in  its  nature,  and  liable  to  be  destroyed  by  every  blast, 
and  will  demand  all  your  care  and  attention.  Should  you 
witness  a  blast  on  its  dawning  beauties,  O  !  how  your  fond 
heart  will  bleed  with  tenderness,  affection,  and  sympathy ! 
The  young  shoot  will  naturally  twine  around  all  the  fibres 
of  your  frame.  Should  it  live  and  thrive,  spare  no  pains  to 
"  train  it  up  in  the  way  it  should  go."  Weed  it,  water  it, 
prune  it ;  it  will  need  all  your  skill.  Without  this,  many 
weeds  and  baneful  plants  will  grow  up  with  it,  and  blast 
your  fondest  hopes.  Be  ever  mindful  that  this  is  a  trust 
for  which  both  parties  are  accountable. 

Without  careful  cultivation,  what  can  you  expect  but  the 
most  luxuriant  growth  of  unruly  appetites,  which,  in  time, 
will  break  forth  in  all  manner  of  disgiaceful  irregularities  1 
What,  but  that  Anger,  like  a  prickly  thorn,  will  arm  the 
temper  with  an  untractable  moroseness  1  That  Peevishness, 
like  a  stinging  nettle,  will  render  the  conversation  irksonie 


104  THE    MATRIMONIAL    GARDEN. 

and  forbidding  1  That  Avarice,  like  some  cboaking  weed, 
will  teach  the  fingers  to  gripe,  and  the  hands  to  oppress  ? 
That  Revenge,  like  some  poisonous  plant,  replete  with  bane- 
ful juices,  will  rankle  in  the  breast,  and  meditate  mischief  to 
its  neighbour  1  While  unbridled  Lust,  like  swarms  of 
noisome  insects,  taint  each  rising  thought,  and  render  "  every 
imagination  of  the  heart  only  evil  continually."  Such  are 
the  usual  products  of  unrestrained  nature  !  such  the  furni 
ture  of  the  uncultivated  mind  ! 

By  all  means,  then,  pay  due  attention  to  culture.  By 
suitable  discipline,  clear  the  soil ;  by  careful  instruction,  im 
plant  the  seed  of  virtue.  By  skill  and  vigilance,  prune  the 
unprofitable  and  over-luxuriant  branches  :  "  direct  the  young 
idea  how  to  shoot,"  the  wayward  passions  how  to  move. 
The  mature  man  will  then  become  the  chief  ornament  of 
the  garden.  Around  him  Charity  will  breathe  her  sweets, 
and  in  his  branches  Hope  expand  her  blossoms.  In  him 
the  personal  virtues  will  display  their  graces,  and  the  social 
ones  their  fruit ;  the  sentiments  become  generous,  the  car- 
riage endearing,  the  life  useful,  and  the  end  happy  and 
peaceful. 


THE 

YOUNG  GARDENER'S  ASSISTANT. 

PART   III. 
FRUIT  DEPARTMENT. 


CONTENTS. 


OBSERVATIONS  ON  THE  ORCHARD  AND  FRUIT  GARDEN. 

Page. 

Suggestions  on  the  choice  of  a  situation  for  an  orchard,       7 
Of  the  best  methods  of  preparing  the  various  kinds  of  soil,       8 
Directions  for  transplanting  fruit  trees,         -         -         -       9 
A  communication  from  a  friend,  showing  his  plan  of 

replanting  trees,  -------11 

Hints  on  the  arrangement  of  trees,  with  a  view  to  ob- 
tain successional  crops  of  fruit. — Different  soils 
described,  suited  to  the  various  kinds  of  fruit,        -     12 

OBSERVATIONS   ON  INSECTS  AND  DISEASES  TO  WHICH 
FRUIT  TREES  ARE  LIABLE. 

Remedies  for  the  prevention  and  destruction  of  insects,     13 
The  best  methods  of  curing  diseases  in  fruit  trees,        -     14 
Composition  to  be  used  as  a  wash  for  fruit  trees,  at 

the  time  of  pruning,     ------     15 

Some  of  the  most  annoying  insects  and  reptiles  described,     16 
An  earnest  appeal  to  all  agriculturists  and  horticultu- 
rists, showing  the  importance  of  encouraging  the 
inhabitants  of  cities  to  preserve  their    ashes  and 
soot  in  a  dry  state,  for  use  on  the  land,  -         -     17 

OBSERVATIONS  ON  TRAINING  AND  PRUNING  FRUIT 
TREES  AND  VINES. 
The  primary  object  of  pruning  explained,     -         -         -     21 
Several  methods  described  of  pruning  and  training  the 

vine,  &c,      --------     22 

The  benefits  arising  from  judicious  pruning,         -         -     23 
Necessary  Implements  for  pruning,  &c.       -        -        -     24 


n  CONTENTS. 

BUDDING  AND  GRAFTING  FRUIT  TREES. 

Information  respecting  the  time  and  manner  of  budding 

fruit  trees,   --------25 

On  the  choice  of  scions,  and  mode  of  preparing  the  stocks,     27 

Cleft  Grafting,  Side  Grafting,  and  Wliip  Grafting  ex- 
plained,       -        -         -        -        -•-         -        -28 

Saddle  Grafting,  Root  Grafting,  and  Grafting  by  Ap- 
proach, defined,  -------     29 

Directions  for  making  Forsyth's  composition,        -         -     30 

Recipes  for  preparing  liquids  for  washing  the  stems  and 

branches  of  trees,  ------     31 

Instructions  for  making  grafting  clay  and  composition,       32 

ON  THE  CHOICE  OF  FRUIT  TREES  IN  THE  NURSERY. 
Rules  for  judging  the  qualities  of  fruit  trees,         -         -  33 
Directions  for  the  management  of  Stone  Fruits,  to  pre- 
vent their  gumming  at  the  roots,  -                  -         -  34 
A  guide  to  the  selection  of  distinct  varieties  of  fruit,      -  35 
Apple.     Its  history,  cultivation,  propagation,  &c.          -  37 
Seventy-six  of  the  choicest  varieties  of  Apples  described,  39 
Apricot.     The  best  method  of  training,  pruning,  &c. 

explained,    --------46 

Select  descriptive  list  of  Apricots,         -         -         -         -  49 

Almond.     Its  history,  mode  of  culture,  &c.           -         -  50 
Cherry.     The  various  kinds  enumerated,  with  direc- 
tions for  their  cultivation,     -         -         -         -         -  51 

Thirty-one  of  the  most  esteemed  varieties  described,    -  53 
Chestnut.     Its  durability  and  other  peculiar  charac- 
teristics adverted  to,     -         -         -         -         -         -  56 

Cranberry.  Its  adaptation  for  garden  culture  exem- 
plified,           57 

Currant.     The  best  mode  of  cultivation  shown,  -        -  58 

Select  descriptive  list  of  Currants,        -         -         -         -  60 
Fig.     a  fruit  well  calculated  for  cultivation  in  the  United 

States, 61 


CONTENTS  m 

Page. 

The  operation  of  Girdling  or  Ringing  Trees  explained,     62 
Seventeen  of  the  best  varieties  of  Figs  described,  -     63 

GoosEBERuy.     Description  of  fifty-eight  of  the    most 

celebrated  varieties,      -         -         -         -         -         -     66 

An  improved  method  of  managing  the  Gooseberry,      -     70 
Grape.     The  peculiar  characteristics  of  the  Grape  Vine 

defined, 72 

The  different  manures  adapted  to  the  vine  enumerated,  75 
On  the  various  methods  of  propagating,  grafting,  &c.  -  76 
Select  descriptive  list  of  foreign  and  native  grapes,  -  77 
Doctor  G.  W.  Chapman's  and  Mr.  Wm.  Wilson's  suc- 
cessful experiments  on  their  vines,  -  -  -  79 
Edward  H.  Bonsall's  Vineyard  Culture  explained,  -  80 
Doctor  R.  T.  Underhill's  account  of  his  vineyard  at 

Croton  Point, 83 

Concluding  observations  on  training,  pruning,  and  cul- 
tivating the  vine,  -         -         -         -         -         -     85 

Mulberry.     Some  of  the  most  useful  species  described, 

with  directions  for  their  propagation  and  cultivation,     88 
Nectarine.     Important  hints,  calculated  to  give  this 
scarce  but  delicious  fruit  the  best  possible  chance 
of  success,  if  strictly  attended  to,  ...     91 

Select  descriptive  list  of  Nectarines,    -         -         -         -     94 

Orange,  Lemon,  &:c.     The  several  species  of  this  fruit 

enumerated,  &c.  ------     96 

Peach.     An  elaborate  review  of  the  means  best  calcu- 
lated to  overcome  the  difficulties  attending  the  cul- 
tivation of  this  important  fruit,       -         -         -         -     98 

Sixty-one  of  the  best  varieties  of  Peaches  described,    -  105 
Pear.     A  definition  of  the   different   qualities  of  this 
fruit,  with  directions  for  its  propagation  and  culti- 
vation, ..-...-.  Ill 
Observations  on  the  alleged  deteiioration  of  the  Pear, 

and  other  fruits,  -         -         -         -         -         -         -113 

Eighty-eight  of  the  most  esteemed  varieties  of  the  Pear 

described,    -         -        -        -        -        -        -        -115 


lY  CONTENTS. 

PagSL 

Plum.     The  means  best  adapted  for  tlie  perfection  of 

this  fruit  explained,     .-----  124 

Fifty-three  of  the  finest  varieties  of  Plums  described,    -  126 

Quince.  Its  history,  its  use,  and  method  of  culture  ex- 
plained,         131 

Raspberry.  All  the  most  celebrated  species  and  varie- 
ties enumerated,  --.--_  132 

Select  descriptive  list  of  Raspberries,  -         -         -         -  135 

Strawberry.  The  valuable  properties  of  the  Straw- 
berry, with  directions  for  its  cultivation,         -  -  136 

A  descriptive   list   of  the   most  esteemed   species   and 

varieties  of  Strawberi  ies,      -  .         .         .         .  133 

Walnut.     Its  use  both  as  a  fruit  and  timber  tree,         -  140 

CALENDAR  AND  INDEX. 

January. — An  essay  on  the  importance  of  improving 
the  various  species  of  fruit,  by  propagating  none 
but  the  finest  specimens  for  seed,  and  by  amelio- 
rating the  existing  kinds  by  Cross  Fertilization ; 
which  process  is  explained  in  a  clear  and  compre- 
hensive manner,  ......  143 

February. — An  attempt  to  prepare  the  young  gardener 
for  the  timely  performance  of  his  work  in  the  or- 
chard and  fruit  garden,  in  a  judicious  manner,  by 
directing  his  attention  to  such  business  as  can  be 
done  in  unfavourable  weather,  that  he  may  be  en- 
abled to  give  prompt  attention  to  other  important 
business  before  the  rise  of  the  sap,  and  thus  prevent 
much  anxiety  and  labour,      -         -         -         -         -  147 

March. — Directions  for  pruning  Grape  Vines,  and  Ap- 
ple, Cherry,  Pear,  and  Quince  Trees ;  for  culti- 
vating Cranberries,  Currants,  Gooseberries,  Rasp- 
berries, &c. ;  for  preparing  the  ground  for  the 
reception  of  all  kinds  of  fruit  trees  as  soon  as  the 
weather  becomes  favourable  ;  for  supporting  newly 
planted  trees  by  means  of  stakes,  &c.    -         -        -  149 


CONTENTS.  V 

Page. 
April. — Attention  is  directed  to  the  pruning  of  fruit 
trees,  including  Apricot,  Almond,  Fig,  Mulberry, 
Nectarine,  Peach,  Plum,  &c.;  also,  to  the  cultiva- 
tion and  propagation  of  trees,  shrubs,  and  vines,  by 
cuttings,  layers,  grafting,  and  other  methods,  -  151 
May. — The  gardener  is  reminded  of  the  importance  of 
finishing  the  work  that  was  left  undone  last  month 
without  further  delay ;  and  of  attending  to  the  de- 
fitruction  of  insects  while  in  a  torpid  state,  and  the 
preservation  of  the  Gooseberry  and  other  fruits 
from  mildew.  By  cultivating  Raspberries  and 
Strawberries  as  directed  in  April  and  June,  such 
fruits  may  be  produced  at  a  late  season,  -  -  153 
June.— The  business  of  this  month  in  the  fruit  garden 
consists  of  summer  pruning,  clearing  the  trees  and 
vines  of  dead  leaves  and  insects,  and  of  protecting 
and  cultivating  early  fruit  to  promote  its  ripening 
in  full  perfection,  ..----  155 

July. — Remedies  for  the  protection  of  fruit  from  birds 
and  ants,  and  for  preserving  Grape  Vines  from 
mildew.  Judicious  summer  pruning,  and  atten- 
tion to  Figs,  Vines,  &c.,  recommended,  -  -  156 
August. — As  insects  are  engendered  in  vast  quantities 
by  the  heat  of  our  summers,  the  attention  of  gar- 
deners is  directed  to  the  use  of  bitter  and  acrid 
substances,  which  being  made  into  a  compost,  is 
calculated  to  improve  the  land,  as  well  as  to  destroy 

insects, 158 

September. — The  subject  treated  of  under  this  month 
relates  chiefly  to  the  rejection  of  various  fruits,  by 
many  cultivators,  and  to  the  propensity  of  some 
persons  to  neglect  old  inmates  of  the  garden  for 
the  sake  of  trying  other  varieties,  merely  because 
they  are  new, 160 


VI  CONTENTS. 

PajCi 

October. — It  is  suggested  that  attention  be  paid  to  tte 
careful  gathering  of  fruit,  \vl)ile  in  a  perfect  state; 
also  to  the  preservation  of  Grapes,  &c.  Directions 
for  planting  the  pits  of  Cherry,  Peach,  Plum,  &c., 
and  the  kernels  of  Apple,  Pear,  and  Quince  ;  also 
for  preparing  the  ground  for  the  reception  of  all 
kinds  of  hardy  fruit  trees  on  the  decline  of  the  sap,  162 

November. — As  winter  is  fast  approaching,  it  is  recom- 
mended to  protect  tender  vines,  trees,  shrubs,  and 
plants,  including  Raspberry,  Fig,  Strawberry 
Plants,  &c.;  and  to  plant  hardy  fruit  trees  while 
the  land  is  susceptible  of  being  tilled,    -         -         .  163 

December. — At  all  favourable  opportunities  during  this 
month  the  gardener  is  directed  to  prune  hardy  fruit 
trees,  to  scrape  off  all  the  moss  and  canker,  and  to 
wash  the  stems  and  branches  with  a  liquid  pre- 
pared according  to  a  recipe  given,         -         .         -  164 

An  Address  to  the  People  of  the  United  States 
on  the  subject  of  an  alleged  discovery  on  Terra- 
Culture,  submitted  to  the  attention  of  the  25th  and 
26th  Congress, 165 

A  summary  view  of  estimates,  furnished  with  a  view  to 
aid  the  Seedsman  and  Gardener  in  making  out  a 
bill  of  seed,  for  the  purpose  of  planting  any  given 
quantity  of  ground,  under  the  regulations  suggested 
in  the  vegetable  department  of  the  Young  Gar- 
deners Assistant,  ------  170 


OBSERVATIONS 


FRUIT  GARDEN  AND  ORCHARD. 


In  the  preliminary  observations  on  the  subjects  ah-eady 
treated  of,  I  am  aware  that  it  may  appear  to  some  that  I 
have  not  sufficiently  urged  the  importance  of  a  judicious 
selection  of  situation,  exposure,  aspect,  soil,  &:c.  My  object 
in  not  insisting  on  a  strict  attention  to  these  important  points 
was,  because  I  know  that,  though  good  land  is  abundant  in 
this  extensive  country,  it  is  impossible  for  evezy  one  to  choose 
for  himself;  and  rather  than  any  disadvantages  in  these 
respects  should  discourage  proprietors  of  land  from  attempt- 
ing to  raise  garden  products,  so  necessary  to  the  comfort  and 
convenience  of  every  family,  I  have  endeavoured  to  show 
them  how  to  use  to  advantage  whatever  land  may  surround 
their  places  of  abode.  As,  however,  some  have  a  choice, 
it  may  be  necessary  to  offer  some  farther  remarks  on  the 
subject. 

The  situation  of  an  Orchard  or  Fruit  Garden  should  be 
one  that  has  the  advantage  of  a  free  circulation  of  air,  and 
is  exposed  to  the  south,  with  a  slight  inclination  to  the  east 
and  southwest.  When  the  situation  is  low  and  close,  the 
trees  are  very  liable  to  become  mossy,  which  always  injures 
them,  by  closing  up  the  pores  of  the  wood  ;  they  are  also 
more  liable  to  be  affected  by  blight.  Although  having  an 
orchard  closely  pent  up  by  trees,  &;c.,  is  injurious,  neverthe- 
less a  screen  of  forest  trees,  at  such  a  distance  from  the  fruit 
trees  as  that  the  latter  will  not  be  shaded  by  them,  is  of  very 
great  service  in  protecting  the  trees  in  spring  from  severe 
cold  winds. 


8  OBSERVATIONS    ON    THE 

A  good  strong  loamy  soil,  not  too  retentive  of  moisture, 
to  the  depth  of  thirty  inches,  or  three  feet,  is  most  suitable 
for  an  orchard.  Great  attention  must  be  paid  to  the  sub- 
stratum, as  the  ground  must  be  well  drained ;  for  if  the  top 
soil  be  ever  so  good,  and  the  bottom  wet,  it  is  very  rarely 
the  case  that  the  trees  prosper  many  yeai's,  when  they  begin 
to  be  diseased  and  go  to  decay.  As  it  is  so  indispensably 
necessary  to  the  success  of  fruit  trees  that  the  bottom  should 
be  dry,  if  it  is  not  naturally  so,  it  must  be  made  so  by  judi- 
cious draining. 

When  it  is  necessary  to  make  the  bottom  dry  by  draining, 
it  must  be  done  some  time  before  the  trees  are  planted.  In 
performing  this  work,  the  ground  must  be  trenched,  and 
when  the  trench  is  open,  stone,  or  brick-bats,  &c.,  must  be 
laid  over  the  bottom  to  the  thickness  of  six  inches,  a  little 
coal  ashes,  or  small  gravel,  must  be  sprinkled  over  the  top 
of  the  stones,  &c.,  and  then  the  surface  gently  rolled. 
Drains  may  also  be  made  in  difl'ercnt  directions,  so  that  any 
excess  of  moisture  can  be  taken  entirely  away  from  the 
ground. 

It  is  well  known  to  most  cultivators,  that  exposure  of  soils 
to  the  atmosphere  greatly  improves  them,  as  is  experienced 
by  ridging  and  trenching.  Where  the  soil  is  stiff  and  stub- 
born, small  gravel,  sand,  coal  ashes,  lime,  light  animal  and 
vegetable  manure,  and  other  light  composts,  are  very  appro- 
priate substances  to  be  applied,  and  will,  if  carefully  managed 
and  well  worked  into  the  ground,  soon  bring  it  into  a  proper 
condition  for  most  purposes. 

Previous  to  laying  out  an  orchard  or  fruit  garden,  the  soil 
should  be  manured  and  pulverized  to  a  great  depth.  It 
should  be  made  sweet,  that  the  nutriment  which  the  roots 
receive  may  be  wholesome ;  free,  that  they  may  be  at  full 
liberty  to  range  in  quest  of  it ;  and  rich,  that  there  may  be 
no  defect  in  food. 

If  orchards  are  made  from  meadows  or  pasture  lands,  the 
ground  should  be  improved  as  much  as  possible  by  manur- 


ORCHARD  AND  FRUIT  GARDEN.  9 

ing,  trenching,  ploughing,  &c.  If  this  is  not  done  to  its  full 
extent,  it  should  be  done  in  strips  of  at  least  six  feet  in  width 
along  where  the  fruit  trees  are  to  be  planted,  and  at  the  time 
of  planting  let  the  holes  be  dug  somewhat  larger  than  is 
sufficient  to  admit  the  roots  in  their  natural  position,  and  of 
sufficient  depth  to  allow  of  a  foot  of  rich  and  well-pulverized 
mould  to  be  thrown  in  before  the  trees  are  planted. 

In  transplanting  trees,  they  should  not  be  placed  more  than 
an  inch  or  two  deeper  than  tiiey  were  in  the  nursery  bed,  and 
the  earth  intended  for  filling  in  should  be  enriched  and  well 
pulverized  by  mixing  in  some  good  old  manure ;  and  if  any 
leaves,  decayed  brush,  rotten  wood,  potato  tops,  or  other 
refuse  of  a  farm,  are  attainable,  let  such  be  used  around  the 
trees  in  filling,  taking  care  that  the  best  pulverized  mould  is 
admitted  among  the  fine  roots.  The  trees  in  planting  should 
be  kept  at  ease,  and  several  times  shaken,  so  as  to  cause  an 
equal  distribution  of  the  finer  particles  of  earth  to  be  con- 
nected with  the  small  fibres  of  the  roots  ;  and  when  com- 
pletely levelled,  let  the  ground  be  well  trodden  down  and 
moderately  watered,  which  should  be  repealed  occasionally 
after  spring  planting,  if  the  weather  should  prove  dry. 

As  some  difference  of  opinion  exists  among  practical  men 
as  to  the  best  time  for  planting  fruit  trees,  the  following 
extract  from  Mr.  Prince's  Treatise  on  Horticulture  is  sub- 
mitted : 

"  Seasons  for  Transplanting.  Spring  is  the  season 
when  we  find  the  most  pleasure  in  making  our  rural  improve- 
ments, and  from  this  circumstance,  probably,  it  has  become 
the  general  season  for  planting  trees ;  but  experience  has 
proved  autumn  planting  to  be  the  most  successful,  especially 
in  those  parts  of  the  Uiaited  States  which  are  subject  to 
droughts,  as  trees  planted  in  autumn  suffer  little  or  none 
from  drought,  when  those  set  out  in  spring  often  perish  in 
consequence  of  it.  Notwithstanding,  with  regard  to  those 
fruits  that  have  been  originally  brought  from  warmer  cli- 


10  OBSERVATIONS    ON    THE 

mates,  such  as  the  Peach,  Apricot,  Nectarine,  and  Almond, 
which  are  natives  of  Persia,  Armenia,  &c.,  it  is  necessary 
for  us  to  consult  the  operations  of  climate  also;  and,  from 
a  consideration  of  those  attendant  circumstances,  I  have 
come  to  the  following  conclusions  :  In  localities  south  of 
New- York,  autumn  planting  is  preferable  only  for  the  Apple, 
Peai%  Plum,  Cherry,  Quince,  and  all  other  trees  of  northern 
latitude ;  whereas,  the  spiung  is  to  be  preferred  for  the 
Peach,  Apricot,  Nectarine,  and  Almond,  which,  for  the 
reasons  before  stated,  might,  during  severe  winters,  suffer 
fiom  the  intensity  of  the  frosts.  Still  I  do  not  mean  to 
assert,  that  trees  of  those  kinds  are  certain  to  be  injured  by 
the  winter,  as  in  very  many  seasons  they  are  not  in  the  least 
affected ;  still  they  are  exposed  to  vicissitudes  which  may  or 
may  not  occur.  Many  gentlemen,  however,  of  excellent 
judgment,  make  their  jslantations  in  the  autumn,  which  only 
serves  to  prove,  that  even  in  the  most  intelligent  minds  a 
diversity  of  opinion  exists. 

"  Trees,  etc.,  on  their  Arrival  at  the  Place  of  Des- 
tination. As  soon  as  the  trees  arrive  at  the  place  where 
they  are  to  be  planted,  let  a  trench  be  dug  in  cultivated 
ground,  the  bundles  unpacked,  the  roots  well  wetted,  and 
immediately  covered  with  earth  in  the  trench,  obser\'ing  to 
make  the  earth  fine  that  is  spread  over  them,  so  as  not  to 
leave  vacancies  for  the  admission  of  air  to  dry  the  roots,  it 
having  been  found  by  experience  that  the  thriftiness  of  trees 
the  first  year  after  transplanting,  depends  much  on  the  fine 
fibres  of  the  roots  being  kept  moist,  and  not  suffered  to  dry 
from  the  time  they  are  taken  up  until  they  are  replanted  ; 
their  increase,  therefore,  must  depend  principally  on  the 
subsequent  management  on  their  arrival  at  the  place  of  des- 
tination ;  for  if,  when  the  bundles  are  unpacked,  the  trees 
are  carelessly  exposed  to  drying  winds,  the  young  fibres  of 
the  roots  must  perish,  and  the  trees,  if  they  live  at  all,  can- 
not thrive  the  first  season,  as  they  can  receive  little  or  no 
nourishment  until  these  fibres  are  replaced. 


ORCHARD  AND  FRUIT  GARDEN.  11 

"  To  CAUSE  THE  Trees  TO  Thrive.  The  ground  where 
they  are  planted  must  be  kept  cultivated  ;  young  trees  will 
not  thrive  if  the  grass  be  permitted  to  form  a  sod  around 
them ;  and  if  it  should  be  necessary  to  plant  them  in  grass 
grounds,  care  must  be  taken  to  keep  the  earth  mellow  and 
free  from  grass  for  three  or  four  feet  distant  around  them, 
and  every  autumn  some  well-rotted  manure  should  be  dug 
in  around  each  tree,  and  every  spring  the  bodies  of  the 
Apple,  Pear,  Plum,  and  Cherry  trees,  and  others  that  it  is 
particularly  desirable  to  promote  the  growth  of,  should  be 
brushed  over  with  common  soft  soap,  undiluted  with  water; 
this  treatment  will  give  a  thriftiness  to  the  trees  surpassing 
the  expectation  of  any  one  who  has  not  witnessed  its  effect. 
Should  the  first  season  after  transplanting  prove  dry,  regular 
watering  will  be  necessary,  as  from  neglect  of  proper  atten- 
tion in  this  respect,  many  lose  a  large  portion  of  their  trees 
during  a  drought,"* 

Such  kinds  of  fruit  trees  treated  on  in  this  work,  as  may 
require  any  other  than  good  ordinary  soil,  may  be  supplied, 

*  The  following  letter  was  received  by  the  Author  while  he  was  pre- 
paring the  copy  for  the  ninth  edition  of  this  work  : 

"  In  reading  your  very  useful  and  entertaining  work  on  Gardening, 
Planting  Trees,  and  otherwise,  I  need  not  say,  to  me,  it  contained  much 
that  was  new,  original,  and  very  useful ;  yet,  complete  as  is  your  Bdmirable 
work,  I  found  not  therein  one  circumstance  connected  with  replanting 
trees,  of  vital  importance  to  be  observed,  particularly  with  those  trees 
which  have  attained  several  years' growth,  say  trees  from  fifteen  to  twenty 
feet  high,  and  from  three  to  five  inches  diameter.  Some  seven  or  eight  feet 
above  the  root,  that  is  to  say,  at  the  time  of  digging  up  the  tree,  a  mark 
should  be  made  on  the  north  or  south  side  of  the  tree ;  and  on  replanting 
the  same,  it  should  be  set  into  the  ground  as  nearly  as  possible  In  the  same 
position  to  the  sun  (north  or  south)  as  it  occupied  before  taken  up,  other- 
wise the  tree  will  not  be  so  thrifty ;  if  its  sides  are  changed,  it  not  unfro- 
quently  appears  sickly,  and  ultimately  dies.  Over  twenty  years'  experi- 
ence in  replanting  some  thousands  of  hard  and  soft  Maple,  Elm,  and 
others,  enables  me  to  speak  positively  on  this  precaution.  Whenever  the 
community  calls  for  another  edition  of  your  work,  in  that  part  relating  to 
Replanting  Trees,  if  you  deem  the  above  suitable  for  insertion  therein,  it 
might  assist  many  who  have  not  this  knowledge,  and  oblige, 

"  Yours  with  esteem,  John  CLOwrs,  C.  E." 


12  ORCHARD  AND  FRUIT  GARDEN. 

by  judicious  management ;  and  if  a  propei"  attention  be  paid 
to  the  situation  and  aspect  in  arranging  a  fruit  garden,  each 
kind  may  be  so  accommodated  as  to  promote  its  fruits'  ripen- 
ing earlier  or  later  than  the  ordinary  season,  by  varying  the 
aspect ;  but  Grape  Vines,  or  other  tender  fruits,  should  not 
be  planted  where  the  sun's  influence  does  not  fully  operate. 

"Where  there  is  a  great  extent  of  close  fencing  or  wall,  it 
is  advisable  to  plant  trees  of  the  same  kind  against  different 
aspects.  Such  as  one  or  two  May  Duke  Cherries  against  a 
southern  aspect,  which  will  ripen  earliest ;  next,  against  either 
an  eastern  or  western  ;  and  lastly,  against  a  northern  aspect; 
by  observing  this  method  with  Dwarf  Cherries,  Plums, 
Gooseberries,  Currants,  &c.,  the  fruit  will  ripen  in  succes- 
sion, and  thus  a  supply  is  considerably  lengthened.  The  early 
blooming  fruit  trees  will  sometimes  need  protection  in  warm 
aspects ;  for  which  arrangements  may  be  made  by  keeping 
awning,  matting,  netting,  &c.,  at  hand,  to  shelter  them  with 
in  threatening  weather,  or  to  screen  them  from  the  intense 
heat  of  the  sun  after  a  frosty  night ;  this,  with  a  sprinkling 
of  water,  as  the  air  gets  warm,  will  often  prevent  any  serious 
consequences  from  slight  frost. 

Those  who  have  various  soils,  should  suit  them  to  the  dif- 
ferent kinds  of  fruit.  Apples  and  Pears  require  a  strong 
loam,  but  the  Pear  rather  the  lightest.  Apricots,  Cherries, 
Peaches,  Plums,  and  Nectarines,  a  good  deal  lighter  than  the 
Apple  and  Pear.  Such  fruits  as  may  require  peat,  bog,  or 
any  other  extraordinary  kinds  of  earth,  will  be  noticed  as 
we  proceed. 


13 


OBSERVATIONS  ON  INSECTS, 


DISEASES   TO  WHICH  FRUIT  TREES  ARE  LIABLE. 


Much  may  be  written  relative  to  the  various  diseases  to 
which  fruit  trees  are  hable,  and  also  to  the  prevention  and 
destruction  of  the  various  kinds  of  reptiles  and  insects,  which 
very  frequently  deprive  us  of  the  first  fruits  of  our  garden. 
The  preventive  operations  are  those  of  the  best  culture. 
Autumn  ploughing,  by  exposing  worms,  grubs,  the  larvae  of 
bugs,  beetles,  &c.,  to  the  intense  frost  of  our  winters,  and 
the  moderate  use  of  salt,  lime,  ashes,  &;c.,  are  beneficial. 
Insects  may  be  annoyed,  and  sometimes  their  complete 
destruction  effected,  by  the  use  of  soapsuds,  lye,  tar,  turpen- 
tine, sulphur,  pepper,  soot,  decoction  of  elder,  walnut  leaves, 
tobacco,  and  other  bitter  and  acrid  substances ;  but  perhaps 
the  most  effectual  way  of  keeping  some  of  the  most  perni- 
cious kinds  of  insects  under,  is  to  gather  up  such  fruit  as 
may  fall  from  the  trees,  before  the  insects  have  an  opportu- 
nity of  escaping  into  the  earth,  or  to  other  places  of  shelter. 

Where  trees  are  planted  in  a  bad  soil,  or  unfavourable 
situations,  they  often  become  diseased ;  when  this  happens, 
the  best  remedy  is  good  pruning,  and  keeping  the  trees 
clean  by  a  free  use  of  soap  and  water.  If  that  will  not  do, 
they  may  be  headed  down,  or  removed  to  a  better  situation. 
Barrenness  and  disease  are  generally  produced  by  the  bad 
qualities  of  tne  earth  and  air,  by  a  want  of  water,  or  by  the 
inroads  of  insects.  These  incidents  generally  show  them- 
selves in  the  early  part  of  the  year.  Leaves  and  shoots  of 
any  colour  but  the  natural  green ;  curled  and  ragged  leaves ; 


14  OBSERVATIONS    ON    INSECTS, 

branches  in  a  decaying  state  ;  shoots  growing  from  the  roots, 
instead  of  from  the  stem  or  trunk  ;  the  stem  diseased  in  its 
bark,  the  gum  oozing  from  various  parts  thereof,  are  all 
proofs  of  the  existence  of  disease.  The  Peach  tree  is  sub- 
ject to  a  disease  called  the  yellows ;  and  the  discoloured 
leaves  and  feeble  branches  are  often  ascribed  to  the  worms 
which  so  frequently  attack  the  root ;  where  these  are  found, 
they  may  be  removed  by  a  knife  or  chisel ;  but  if  it  should 
appear  that  the  tree  is  diseased,  it  should  be  removed,  to 
prevent  other  trees  from  being  infected.  The  Pear,  and 
also  the  Quince,  and  sometimes  other  trees,  are  subject  to 
the  fire  blight ;  this  malady  may  be  completely  checked  on 
its  first  appearance,  by  cutting  off  and  immediately  burning 
the  injured  branches.  Generally  speaking,  careful  pruning, 
cleaning  the  bark  all  over  with  a  brush,  applying  soap  or 
tobacco  water  to  the  leaves,  and  occasionally  putting  good 
earth  and  good  manure  to  the  roots,  will  remedy  most  dis- 
eases in  fruit  trees ;  removing  them  from  a  bad  to  a  better 
soil  will,  of  course,  effect  this,  where  it  proceeds  from  a 
poorness  of  land ;  for  the  old  adage,  "  Remove  the  cause, 
and  the  effect  will  cease,"  will  be  here  exemplified.  To 
cure  the  oozing  of  the  gum,  nothing  more  is  necessary  than 
to  cut  away  the  diseased  parts  of  the  bark  ;  and  by  thus 
assisting  nature  in  casting  out  the  excrementitious,  or  nox- 
ious juices,  a  complete  cure  may  be  effected. 

When  a  tree  is  affected  by  mildew,  let  it  be  immediately 
sprinkled  with  soapsuds,  and  then  be  dusted  over  with  sul- 
phur and  tobacco  dust,  or  snuff";  at  the  same  time,  dig 
around  the  tree,  and  examine  the  soil  and  subsoil ;  if  it  be 
wet  and  cankery,  it  should  be  taken  away,  and  replaced  with 
good  healthy  soil,  and  the  ground  drained ;  if,  on  the  con- 
trary, the  ground  be  dry,  give  it  a  plentiful  watering;  the 
same  remedy  may  serve  as  a  preventive  of  the  extension  of 
blight,  if  applied  in  time.  When  any  canker  is  observed, 
the  part  affected  must,  at  the  time  of  pruning,  be  cut  clean 
out,  and  the  part  thus  dressed  be  pared,  so  that  no  water 


AND    DISEASES    OF    FRUIT    TREES.  15 

can  lodge  in  the  wound ;  when  this  is  done,  let  a  quantity 
of  soot  be  mixed  with  water,  and  a  little  train  oil  well  worked 
among  it,  but  so  that  the  mixture  finally  remains  stiff;  this 
may  be  plastered  over  all  the  wounds  that  have  been  pruned. 
The  application  of  this  mixture  keeps  out  the  wet  from  the 
wounds,  where  it  would  be  likely  to  lodge,  and  both  the 
soot  and  oil  promote  vegetation.  When  trees  are  cankery 
from  having  a  bad  subsoil,  it  is  in  vain  to  apply  any  remedy 
till  the  ground  is  properly  drained,  some  fresh  soil  mixed 
with  the  natural  soil,  and  the  tree  replanted.  When  trees 
are  known  to  be  so  situated  as  to  be  particularly  liable  to  the 
attacks  of  insects  or  disease,  they  should  be  attended  to  at 
the  time  of  winter  or  early  spring  pruning,  in  order  to  de- 
stroy the  insects  in  their  larvae  state. 

The  following  compositions  have  been  known  to  protect 
fruit  trees  from  the  attacks  of  numerous  insects,  by  being 
used  as  a  wash  to  the  trees  immediately  after  pruning.  The 
constitution  of  some  trees  will  bear  a  much  stronger  mixture 
of  ingredients  than  others ;  but  the  proportions,  as  hereafter 
described,  will  not  be  injurious  to  any,  but  will  be  effectual 
in  the  destruction  of  the  larvae  of  insects. 

For  Apricot,  JS\ctarine,  and  Peach  Trees.  To  eight  gal- 
lons of  water  add  one  pound  of  soft  soap,  two  pounds  of 
common  sulphur,  and  half  an  ounce  of  black  pepper. 

For  Jipple,  Cherry,  Pear,  and  Plum  Trees.  To  four  gallons 
of  water  add  one  pound  of  soft  soap,  two  pounds  of  com- 
mon sulphur,  two  ounces  of  tobacco,  and  one  ounce  of  black 
pepper. 

For  Figs  and  Vines.  To  four  gallons  of  water  add  half 
a  pound  of  soft  soap,  one  pound  of  sulphur,  and  a  quarter 
of  an  ounce  of  black  pepper. 

All  these  ingredients  must  be  boiled  together  for  twenty 
minutes  at  least,  and  when  in  a  lukewarm  state,  applied  to 
the  bark  of  the  trees  with  a  suitable  brush.* 

•  For  the  destruction  of  the  Apis,  which  frequently  attacks  the  Apple, 
as  well  as  other  fruit  trees,  while  young,  an  application  of  diluted  whale- 
oil  soap  to  the  leaves  and  branches  has  been  fouad  very  efficacious. 


16  OBSERVATIONS    ON    INSECTS, 

The  most  destructive  enemy  to  our  fruit  is  the  Curculio; 
this  insect  passes  the  winter  in  the  earth  in  a  chrysalis  state, 
and  if  suffered  to  remain  unmolested  hy  the  gardener,  will 
be  ready  to  commence  its  attacks  at  about  the  time  the  blos- 
soms appear  on  our  fiuit  trees.  The  eggs  are  deposited  in 
the  Apple,  Pear,  and  also  all  stone  fruit,  at  a  very  early  stage 
of  their  growth ;  these  eggs  soon  hatch,  and  small  maggots 
are  produced,  which  exist  in  the  fruit,  causing  it  to  drop  off 
prematurely,  with  the  little  enemy  within.  If  this  fruit  be 
gathered  up,  or  immediately  devoured  by  hogs,  geese,  or 
other  animals,  a  check  may  be  put  to  their  ravages  in  suc- 
ceeding years  ;  but  if  suffered  to  remain  on  the  ground,  they 
will  supply  food  to  myriads  of  their  destructive  race,  which 
may  not  be  so  easily  extirpated. 

The  canker-worm  is  another  enemy  to  our  fruits,  for  the 
destruction  of  which  many  experiments  have  been  tried. 
Some  apply  bandages  round  the  body  of  the  tree,  smeared 
over  with  tar  or  ointment,  to  annoy  or  entrap  the  females 
in  their  ascent  to  the  tree  ;  but  as  these  tormentors  are  fre- 
quently on  the  move  from  November  to  the  end  of  June, 
this  must  be  a  very  tedious  as  well  as  uncertain  process.  As 
this  insect  is  supposed  to  exist  within  four  feet  of  the  trunk 
of  the  tree,  and  not  more  than  three  or  four  inches  from  the 
surface  of  the  earth,  good  culture,  and  a  moderate  use  of 
lime,  ashes,  or  any  other  pernicious  ingredient,  is  the  most 
likely  way  to  destroy  them. 

The  bark-louse  is  another  pernicious  insect ;  they  resem- 
ble blisters,  and  are  so  near  the  colour  of  the  bark  as  to  be 
imperceptible ;  they  often  prove  fatal  to  the  Apple  tree,  by 
preventing  the  circulation  of  the  sap.  These  insects  may  be 
conquered  by  washing  the  trees  with  soapsuds,  tobacco 
water,  lime  water,  or  brine,  or  a  wash  may  be  made  of  soapy 
water,  salt,  and  lime,  thickened  to  the  consistency  of  cream  or 
paint,  with  sifted  sand  or  clay,  which  may  be  applied  \vith 
a  brush  to  the  trunk  and  limbs  of  the  trees  ;  this  should  be 
done  at  the  latter  end  of  May,  or  early  in  June,  and  the 
cracks  in  tlie  bark  should  be  completely  covered. 


AND    DISEASES    OF    FRUIT    TREES.  17 

The  Apple-tree  borer  is  said  to  deposit  its  eggs  beneath 
the  surface  of  the  soil,  and  the  worms  are  often  to  be  found 
in  the  spring  of  the  year,  by  digging  round  the  tree,  and 
clearing  away  the  earth  to  the  roots,  and  may  be  taken  out 
with  a  knife  or  gouge,  and  destroyed.  After  the  worms  are 
removed  the  wounds  should  be  covered  over  with  grafting 
clay  and  wood  ashes  mixed,  and  the  earth  then  returned  to 
the  roots  of  the  tree.  Some  use  bricklayers'  mortar  early 
in  the  spring,  around  the  base  of  the  tree,  so  as  to  cover  the 
part  where  the  deposit  is  made,  and  prevent  their  attacks. 

Although  our  limits  will  not  admit  of  a  farther  description 
of  the  various  sorts  of  insects  which  injure  our  gardens,  and 
frequently  destroy  the  fruit  of  our  labour,  I  cannot  forbear 
directing  the  attention  of  our  citizens  to  the  importance  of 
saving  all  kinds  of  ashes.  If  all  agi'iculturists  and  horticul- 
turists were  to  offer  an  inducement  to  the  inhabitants  of 
large  cities,  to  save  their  ashes  in  a  dry  state,  they  would  be 
supplied  not  only  with  a  valuable  manure,  but  an  antidote 
for  many  kinds  of  insects ;  and  our  citizens  would  be  at  less 
risk  from  fire,  by  having  a  brick  vault  on  their  premises  for 
safely  keeping  them.  In  England,  a  private  dwelling  is  not 
considered  complete  without  an  ash-vault ;  and  a  good  farmer 
would  dispense  with  his  barn,  rather  than  be  destitute  of  an 
ash-house.  I  have  known  farmers  to  supply  the  cottagers 
with  as  much  peat  as  they  could  burn,  on  condition  of  their 
saving  them  the  ashes ;  and  there  are  some  that  will  keep 
men  under  pay  throughout  the  year,  burning  peat  for  the 
same  purpose ;  and  any  thing  that  has  passed  the  fire  is  so 
valuable,  that  a  chimney-sweep  will  frequently  clean  chim- 
neys for  the  sake  of  the  soot,  which  is  conveyed  miles  into 
the  country,  and  sold  at  a  price  sufficient  to  reward  the  col- 
lectors, besides  paying  all  expenses ;  even  the  house-keep- 
ers' ashes  in  cities  is  a  marketable  article  at  all  times,  bring- 
ing from  ten  to  twenty-five  cents  per  bushel,  when  kept  diy 
and  clean,  and  a  guinea  a  load  was  formerly  the  common 

price  in  the  villages  of  Berkshire  and  Hampshire. 

2# 


18  OBSERVATIONS    ON    INSECTS, 

While  on  this  subject,  I  would  urge  the  importance  of  a 
spring  dressing  of  ashes.  If  cultivators  were  to  prepare 
turfs  from  tanners'  bark,  peat-earth,  coal  dust  mixed  with 
clay,  cow  dung,  &c.,  and  get  them  dried  in  the  summer 
season,  these,  by  being  preserved  through  the  winter,  may 
be  burned  around  fruit  orchards,  while  the  trees  are  in  blos- 
som, and  if  the  fires  are  properly  managed,  a  smoke  may  be 
kept  up  by  heaping  on  damp  litter  every  night ;  this  will 
prove  pernicious  to  such  insects  as  may  reside  in  the  trees, 
and  the  ashes  being  spread  on  the  ground,  will  serve  as  a 
means  of  destruction  to  others.  An  orchard  thus  managed 
every  year,  will  need  no  other  manure.  The  smoking  should 
be  effected  first  on  one  side  of  the  plantation,  and  afterward 
on  the  other,  or  heaps  may  be  prepared  in  different  parts  of 
the  orchard,  and  fire  applied  according  as  the  wind  may 
serve  to  carry  the  smoke  where  it  is  most  necessary.  I 
know  a  gardener  in  the  neighbourhood  of  New-York,  who 
saved  his  Plums  and  Nectarines  by  burning  salt  hay,  after 
its  having  been  used  as  a  covering  for  his  Spinach ;  and  I 
have  no  hesitation  in  recommending  it  as  an  excellent  reme- 
dy for  securing  fruit  trees  from  insects,  especially  if  some 
coarse  tobacco  could  be  procured  to  add  to  it.  The  damper 
the  materials  are,  in  moderation,  the  more  smoke  they  will 
create  ;  and  if  a  little  tar,  pitch,  sulphur,  or  other  pernicious 
combustible  be  sprinked  among  them,  it  will  be  beneficial. 
This  subject  appears  to  me  of  the  utmost  consequence  to 
the  farmer,  as  well  as  to  the  community  at  large  ;  I,  there- 
fore, cannot  forbear  offering  some  farther  observations. 

It  must  be  acknowedged  that,  although  this  country  con- 
tains an  abundance  of  wood,  coal,  and  peat,  as  well  as 
almost  every  other  description  of  fuel,  yet  the  poor  of  our 
large  cities,  in  general,  suffer  greatly  from  cold ;  and  if  all 
the  tales  of  wo  could  be  sounded  in  the  ears  of  a  sympa- 
thizing community  during  our  severe  winters,  I  am  persuaded 
they  would  arouse  them  to  the  consideration  of  a  remedy. 
It  is  an  acknowledged  fact  that  the  poor  of  Europe  are 


AND    DISEASES    OP    FRUIT    TREES.  19 

cheaper  and  better  supplied  with  fuel  than  those  of  this 
country.  This  arises,  in  a  great  measure,  from  the  circum- 
stance of  ashes  being  held  in  high  estimation  by  agricultur- 
ists ;  they  are  consequently  a  saleable  article  in  their  large 
towns  and  cities,  at  a  price  equal,  in  some  instances,  to  half 
the  cost  of  a  winter's  fuel. 

Now  I  would  ask,  how  is  it  that  ashes  are  not  as  valuable 
to  the  faimers  here  as  they  are  in  Europe  1  The  extreme 
heat  of  the  summer  must  certainly  engender  insects  in  equal 
if  not  greater  proportions ;  and  as  respects  manure,  it  must 
be  scarcer  in  some  parts  of  this  extensive  country  than  it 
is  in  the  densely  peopled  countries  of  Europe.  Perhaps 
some  may  aiiswer,  that  ashes  are  already  used  by  our  culti- 
vators to  a  considerable  extent ;  but  I  would  remind  such, 
that  from  the  circumstance  of  their  being  mixed  up  with 
other  manures,  and  exposed  to  all  sorts  of  weather,  (as  in 
our  city,)  they  lose  their  virtue,  so  that  a  load  may  not  be 
worth  more  than  a  bushel  would  be,  if  kept  dry  and  clean. 

The  farmers  of  Europe  consider  peat  ashes  of  more  value 
than  any  others,  and  I  am  persuaded  that,  could  they  be 
fairly  tested  by  some  of  our  best  cultivators,  great  good  would 
result  to  the  community.  If  the  farmers  in  England  can 
afford  to  keep  men  under  pay,  perpetually  burning  peat  for 
the  sake  of  the  ashes,  it  is  natural  to  suppose  that  the  poor 
of  our  community  may  be  placed  in  easier  circumstances  as 
respects  the  article  of  fuel.  Thousands  of  acres  of  land 
are  to  be  found  in  the  States  of  New- York  and  New-Jersey, 
and  within  a  few  miles  of  this  city,  which  abound  with  peat 
earth ;  and  the  owners  of  such  have  already  begun  to  ex- 
plore their  treasures  of  this  description.  Good  peat  is  now 
to  be  had  in  the  city  at  the  low  price  of  eight  cents  per 
bushel,  or  three  dollars  per  chaldron.  It  bums  well  in  all 
sorts  of  stoves  and  grates,  whether  made  for  wood  or  coal, 
and  also  on  the  hearth ;  and  if  the  ashes  are  not  used  to  any 
better  purpose  than  other  ashes  have  hitherto  been,  it  is  the 
cheapest  fuel  known.     I  am  persuaded  that  this  subject  is 


20  OBSERVATIONS,  ETC. 

worthy  of  serious  consideration,  and  if  the  editors  of  the 
different  papers  would  arouse  the  pubUc  attention,  so  as  to 
direct  some  of  our  most  active  citizens  to  a  consideration  of 
this  subject,  incalculable  good  would  result  to  the  commu- 
nity at  large. 

If  the  public  authorities  of  our  cities,  and  all  those  who 
distribute  fuel  among  the  poor,  gratis,  would  give  them  peat 
instead  of  wood,  it  would  be  much  cheaper,  and  would 
answer  every  purpose  to  the  consumers.  Twelve  bushels 
might  be  given  in  the  first  winter  month  to  each  of  the  ap- 
plicants, instead  of  wood,  with  a  strict  injunction  to  save 
their  ashes  in  a  dry  state,  in  order  to  their  being  taken  in 
exchange  for  a  future  supply  of  peat.  It  could  be  easily 
ascertained  how  much  ashes  twelve  bushels  of  peat  would 
make ;  and  if  a  strict  attention  be  paid  to  the  conditions  of 
exchange,  it  would  soon  be  discovered  which  of  the  appli- 
cants was  the  most  entitled  to  the  distributor's  bounty.  The 
same  sheds  which  it  would  be  necessary  to  provide  for  hous- 
ing the  peat,  could  be  used  as  a  deposit  for  the  ashes.  If 
such  sheds  be  conveniently  constructed  to  hold  each  a  mode- 
rate quantity,  the  first  which  is  emptied  of  peat  may  be  filled 
with  the  first  ashes  that  are  returned  in  exchange  for  a  future 
supply  of  fuel,  and  they  could  all  be  used  for  the  same  pur- 
pose as  they  become  empty.  These  ashes,  when  fairly  tested, 
may  become  a  merchantable  article  as  in  Europe ;  and  it  is 
very  probable  that  farmers  may  be  induced  to  take  them  in 
exchange  for  future  supplies  of  peat ;  they  could,  however, 
be  conveyed  into  the  country  at  a  trifling  expense,  and 
would,  no  doubt,  meet  with  a  ready  sale. 


21 


OBSERVATIONS 


TRAINING  AND  PRUNING  FRUIT  TREES  AND  VINES. 


In  training  and  pruning  fruit  trees  and  vines,  particular 
attention  is  required.  To  supply  a  tree  with  a  sufficiency 
of  vegetable  juices,  there  must  necessarily  be  living  bark 
and  w^ood  in  an  uninterrupted  succession  from  the  root  to 
the  extremities  of  the  branches ;  pruning,  therefore,  is  use- 
ful to  remedy  any  defect,  as  well  as  to  take  off  superfluous 
wood,  and  prevent  unnecessary  waste  of  the  sap.  Pruning 
may  be  performed  at  different  seasons  of  the  year,  according 
to  the  kinds  of  fruit,  which  will  be  shown  under  each  head, 
as  we  proceed. 

In  the  spring  or  summer  pruning,  be  careful  not  to  destroy 
the  germs  of  future  fruits,  but  merely  remove  all  unservice- 
able sprigs.  In  the  winter  season,  make  your  selection  from 
the  wood  shoots  of  the  preceding  year ;  keep  those  which 
appear  the  most  healthy,  and  cut  away  those  which  seem 
redundant.  Beginners  had  better  prefer  the  spring,  as  the 
buds  will  then  be  a  guide  for  them  to  go  by ;  but  this  busi- 
ness must  not  be  delayed  too  late  in  the  season,  as  some 
kinds  of  trees  and  vines  are  apt  to  bleed  from  being  pruned 
untimely.  When  the  sap  rises  in  Grape  Vines,  &c.,  before 
the  wound  is  healed,  bleeding  ensues,  and  it  is  not  easily 
stopped.  When  this  happens,  sear  the  place,  and  cover  it 
with  melted  wax,  or  with  warm  pitch  spread  upon  a  piece 
of  bladder ;  or  peel  off  the  outside  bark  to  some  distance 
from  the  place,  and  then  press  into  the  pores  of  the  wood, 
a  composition  of  pounded  chalk  and  tar,  mixed  to  the  con- 
sistence of  putty.     Vines  will  bleed  in  autumn  as  well  as  in 


22  ON   TRAINING   AND    PRUNING. 

spring,  though  not  so  copiously.  The  best  preventive  is 
timely  or  early  pruning  in  the  spring,  and  not  pruning  until 
the  wood  is  thoroughly  ripe  in  autumn. 

With  respect  to  the  manner  in  which  vines,  and  some 
particular  kinds  of  trees,  should  be  trained,  opinions  are  at 
variance.  Some  advise  training  the  shoots  in  a  straight  and 
direct  manner,  others  in  a  horizontal  manner,  and  others 
again  in  a  serpentine  form,  &c.  If  vines  be  trained  on  low 
walls  or  trellises,  the  horizontal  or  zigzag  manner  of  training 
may  be  adopted.  Horizontal  training  is  that  in  which  from 
a  main  stem,  lateral  branches  are  led  out  horizontally  on 
each  side. 

It  has  been  remarked,  that  in  order  to  be  a  good  trainer 
of  vines,  a  man  must  have  some  forethought,  and  be  capable 
of  making  his  selection,  as  the  plants  shoot.  He  must  pre- 
determine how  he  shall  prune,  and  where  he  shall  cut  at  the 
end  of  the  season ;  and  so,  as  it  were,  fashion  the  plants  to 
his  mind.  He  has  this  more  effectually  in  his  power,  with 
respect  to  the  vine,  than  any  other  fruit  ti'ee,  on  account  of 
its  rapid  growth  and  docility. 

In  pruning  vines,  cut  generally  two  inches  above  the  bud. 
Some  cut  nearer,  even  as  near  as  half  an  inch,  which  is  apt 
to  weaken  the  shoot  of  next  season,  and  sometimes  to  pre- 
vent its  vegetating  at  all,  the  buds  being  very  susceptible  of 
injury,  on  account  of  the  soft  and  spongy  nature  of  the  wood. 
In  cutting  out  old  wood,  be  careful  to  cut  in  a  sloping  direc- 
tion, and  to  smooth  the  edges  of  the  wood,  in  order  to  pre- 
vent its  being  injured  by  moisture.  The  pruning  being 
finished,  let  the  loose,  shreddy,  outward  rind  on  the  old  wood 
be  carefully  peeled  off,  observing  not  to  injure  the  sound 
bark,  and  clear  the  trellis  of  branches,  leaves,  tendrils,  &c 
Let  the  shoots  and  branches  afterward  be  regulaily  laid  in, 
at  the  distance  above  specified,  particularly  the  young  shoots 
that  are  expected  to  bear  next  season.  As  to  others,  it  is 
not  so  material  how  near  the  young  shoots  be  placed  to  the 
old,   even  though   they  sometimes   cross  them.      Choose 


ON   TRAINING    AND    PRUNING.  23 

BtranJs  of  fresh  matting,  or  pack  thread,  to  tie  with ;  and 
observe  to  leave  sufficient  room  for  the  swelling  of  the  shoots 
and  branches  next  season. 

By  attending  to  the  proper  training  of  fruit  trees,  every 
advantage  is  promoted,  and  by  a  judicious  management  in 
other  respects,  wood  may  not  only  be  obtained,  but  preserved 
in  every  part  of  the  tree,  so  that  it  will  bear  down  to  the 
very  bole,  which  will  evidently  be  greatly  to  the  credit  of 
the  gardener,  the  benefit  of  the  proprietor,  and  equally  con- 
ducive to  the  beauty  and  welfare  of  the  tree.  While  trees 
are  young,  it  is  necessary  to  lay  a  good  foundation  for  a  sup- 
ply of  bearing  wood  in  future  years,  for  when  this  is  neg- 
lected, and  they  become  naked,  it  is  sometime  before  a  sup- 
ply can  be  recovered.  In  shortening  a  branch,  always  take 
care  to  cut  in  a  direction  a  little  sloping,  and  the  middle  of 
all  standard  trees  should  be  kept  as  open  as  possible.  It  is 
requisite  to  have  a  very  sharp  knife,  that  the  cut  may  not  be 
ragged,  but  clean,  and  in  the  operation  be  careful  that  the 
knife  does  not  slip,  so  that  another  branch  be  cut  or  damaged. 

The  general  pruning  of  fruit  trees  is  indifferently  per- 
formed by  many  persons  at  any  time  from  autumn  to  spring, 
and  it  may  be  so  done  without  any  great  injury  to  them, 
provided  mild  weather  be  chosen  for  the  purpose,  and  the 
wood  be  well  ripened.  Although  it  may  be  advantageous 
to  prune  trees  early  in  the  winter,  when  the  wood  is  well 
ripened,  yet,  when  the  wood  is  green  and  the  buds  have  not 
arrived  at  a  mature  state,  it  is  requisite  in  such  cases  to  defer 
pruning  until  spring,  taking  care,  however,  that  it  is  perform- 
ed before  the  moving  of  the  sap.  The  necessity  of  this 
arises  from  the  circumstance,  that  as  the  wood  is  not  ripened 
in  autumn,  the  sap  is  then  in  an  active  state,  and  will  con- 
tinue so  until  the  frost,  &c.,  cause  it  to  become  stagnant ; 
and  if  the  shoots  were  shortened  while  the  sap  was  in  mo- 
tion, the  buds  would  be  considerably  injured,  and  the  tree 
weakened ;  such  unripe  shoots  are  also  more  liable  to  suffer 
by  the  severity  of  winter,  and  when  the  pruning  is  defened 


24  ON    TRAINING   AND    PRUNING. 

until  spring,  all  such  parts  as  may  have  been  affected  by  the 
weather,  can  be  removed  to  the  extent  to  which  the  damage 
has  been  sustained.  As  the  pruning  of  such  unripe  wood 
in  the  autumn  would  be  injurious,  so  it  frequently  is  when 
it  is  done  during  winter,  and  the  more  so  according  to  its 
severity ;  because,  whenever  a  cut  is  made  on  such  green 
wood,  the  frost  generally  affects  it,  as  the  sap  is  not  so 
dense,  nor  the  wood  so  firm,  as  to  be  able  to  resist  its  intense- 
ness. 

Whatever  method  is  adopted  in  training  trees,  care  should 
be  taken  to  keep  the  two  sides  as  nearly  equal  as  possible  ; 
this  may  easily  be  done,  whether  they  are  trained  in  the  fan 
or  horizontal  method.  For  espalier  trees,  the  horizontal 
method  has  many  advantages  over  any  other ;  the  small 
compass  within  which  the  trees  are  obliged  to  be  kept, 
requires  such  a  direction  for  the  branches,  in  order  to  make 
them  fruitful ;  and  were  very  high  trellises  formed,  so  as  to 
admit  of  the  trees  being  trained  in  the  fan  method,  such 
would  be  very  objectionable,  by  reason  of  the  shade  they 
would  cause,  and  the  trees  would  also  be  deprived  of  the 
benefit  of  a  warmer  temperature,  which  those  less  elevated 
receive. 

As  some  young  gardeners  may  not  know  what  is  meant 
by  espaliers,  it  may  be  necessary  to  explain,  that  espaliers 
are  hedges  of  fruit  trees,  which  are  trained  up  regularly  to  a 
frame  or  trellis  of  wood-work  ;  they  produce  large  fruit  plen- 
tifully, without  taking  up  much  room,  and  may  be  planted 
in  the  Kitchen  Garden  without  much  inconvenience  to  its 
other  products.  For  espalier  fruit  trees  in  the  open  ground, 
a  trellis  is  absolutely  necessary,  and  may  either  be  formed 
of  common  stakes  or  poles,  or  of  regular  joinery  work, 
according  to  taste  or  fancy. 

The  implements  employed  in  pruning,  and  the  manner  of 
using  them,  are  matters  of  moment.  If  the  operation  is 
commenced  when  the  tree  is  young,  and  judiciously  followed 
up,  a  good  knife,  a  small  saw,  a  mallet,  and  a  chisel  fixed 


ON  BUDDING,  OR  INOCULATING.  25 

on  a  six-foot  handle,  to  trim  the  tops  and  extremities  of  the 
branches,  are  all  the  tools  that  are  required.  A  large  saw 
will  be  occasionally  wanted ;  but  an  axe  or  hatchet  should 
never  be  employed,  as  they  fracture  the  wood,  bruise  and 
tear  the  bark,  and  disfigure  the  tree. 


BUDDING  AND  GRAFTING  FRUIT  TREES. 

Budding  and  Grafting,  Lindley  observes,  are  operations 
that  equally  depend  for  their  success  upon  the  property  that 
buds  possess  of  shooting  roots  downward,  and  stems  up- 
ward ;  but  in  these  practices,  the  roots  strike  between  the 
bark  and  wood  of  the  stock,  instead  of  into  the  earth,  and 
form  new  layers  of  wood,  instead  of  subterranean  fibres. 
The  success  of  such  practices,  however,  depends  upon  other 
causes  than  those  which  influence  the  growth  of  cuttings- 
It  is  necessary  that  an  adhesion  should  talie  place  between 
the  scion  and  the  stock,  so  that  when  the  descending  fibres 
of  the  buds  shall  have  fixed  themselves  upon  the  wood  of 
the  stock,  they  may  not  be  liable  to  subsequent  separation. 
No  one  can  have  studied  the  economy  of  the  vegetable 
kingdom,  without  having  remarked  that  there  is  a  strong 
tendency  to  cohesion  in  bodies  or  parts  that  are  placed  in 
contax:t  with  each  other. 


BUDDING,  OR  INOCULATING. 

To  bud  trees,  let  the  following  method  be  adopted :  Pro- 
cure a  knife  which  has  a  thin  blade,  and  a  sharp  ivory  han- 
dle ;  the  use  of  the  blade  is  to  prepare  the  buds,  and  the 
handle  is  used  to  raise  the  bark  of  the  stocks,  so  that  the 
buds  can  be  easily  inserted.  Have  some  good  strong  bass 
in  readiness,  and  then  take  some  good  thrifty  sprigs  from 
healthy  trees  of  the  sorts  you  intend  to  propagate.     When 


26  ON  BUDDING,  OR  INOCULATING. 

all  is  ready,  make  a  cut  in  the  bark  of  the  stock  transversely, 
and  from  the  middle  of  this  cut  make  another  downward, 
at  least  two  inches  in  length,  so  that  the  two  cuts  may  be  in 
the  form  of  a  T ;  then  from  one  of  your  sprigs  proceed  with 
expedition  to  take  off  a  bud ;  this  is  effected  as  follows : 
Insert  the  knife  a  little  more  than  half  an  inch  below  the 
bud  or  eye,  force  it  into  the  wood,  drawing  it  under  the  bud, 
and  cut  the  piece  off  across  the.  shoot ;  then  immediately  let 
that  part  of  the  wood  which  was  cut  off"  with  the  bud  be 
separated  from  it,  which  may  be  readily  done  with  the  knife, 
by  placing  the  point  of  it  between  the  bark  and  wood  at  one 
end,  and,  holding  the  bark  in  one  hand,  pull  off"  the  woody 
part  with  the  other,  which  will  readily  come  from  the  bark, 
if  the  tree  from  which  it  was  taken  be  in  a  vigorous  con- 
dition. Examine  the  bark,  so  as  to  be  satisfied  that  the 
bud  remains  perfect ;  if  there  is  no  hole  in  it,  let  it  be  im- 
mediately inserted  into  the  stock,  which  is  done  by  raising 
with  the  handle  of  your  knife  the  bark  of  the  stock  downward 
on  each  side  from  the  cross  cut,  and  thrusting  the  bud  in  be- 
tween the  bark  and  the  wood,  applying  it  as  close  as  possi- 
ble. As  soon  as  the  bud  is  put  into  its  place,  bind  it  securely 
with  bass,  beginning  a  little  below  the  cut,  and  proceeding 
upward,  till  you  are  above  the  cross  cut,  taking  care  to  mis3 
the  eye  of  the  bud,  just  so  that  it  may  be  seen  through  the 
bandage  of  the  bass.  About  a  week  or  ten  days  after  the 
stocks  have  been  budded,  they  should  be  examined,  when 
such  as  have  united  will  appear  fresh  and  full,  and  those  that 
have  not  taken  will  appear  decayed ;  in  the  former  case  the 
bandage  may  be  left  off",  and  in  the  latter  case,  the  stock 
may  be  budded  in  another  place,  provided  the  first  operation 
was  done  in  the  month  of  July  or  early  in  August,  as  these  are 
the  two  most  preferable  months  for  budding  fruit  trees  in 
general.  Budding  is,  however,  often  attended  with  success, 
if  done  early  in  September. 

Scallop  Budding  is  performed  by  cutting  fiom  a  small 
stock  a  thin  narrow  scallop  of  wood,  about  an  inch  in  length. 


OBSERVATIONS    ON   GRAFTING.  27 

and  taking  from  a  twig  a  thin  scallop  of  wood  of  the  same 
length ;  this  is  instantly  applied,  and  fitted  perfectly  at  top 
and  bottom,  and  as  nearly  as  possible  on  its  sides,  and  firmly 
bound  with  wet  bass  matting.  This  may  be  peiformed  in 
the  spring,  and  if  it  fails,  it  may  be  done  again  in  the  month 
of  July.     The  French  practice  this  mode  on  Roses. 


GRAFTING. 

Grafting  is  the  taking  a  shoot  from  one  tree  and  inserting 
it  into  another,  in  such  a  manner  that  both  may  unite  closely, 
and  become  one  tree.  These  shoots  are  called  scions  or 
grafts,  and  in  the  choice  of  them,  and  the  mode  of  preparing 
some  descriptions  of  stocks,  the  following  hints  will  be 
useful : 

Those  scions  are  best  which  are  taken  from  the  lateral  or 
horizontal,  rather  than  from  the  strong  perpendicular  shoots. 
The  shoots  of  Apples,  &c.,  should  be  taken  from  healthy 
trees  late  in  autumn,  or  before  the  buds  begin  to  swell  in  the 
spi'ing,  and  buried  half  of  their  length  in  the  ground,  or  in 
a  cool  and  dry  cellar ;  there  to  remain  until  the  season  of 
grafting. 

For  some  descriptions  of  trees,  the  stocks  are  headed 
down  near  to  the  ground.  In  nurseries.  Apples  intended 
for  standards  are  generally  grafted  about  nine  inches  high 
only,  allowing  them  to  grow  up  standard  high,  and  forming 
their  heads  upon  the  second  year's  shoots.  In  cider  coun- 
tiies,  the  stock  is  generally  trained  up  standard  high ;  and 
when  grown  sufficiently  large  for  the  purpose,  it  is  grafted 
at  the  height  at  which  it  is  intended  the  head  of  the  tree 
shall  be  formed.  As  respects  trees  in  general,  directions 
will  be  found  under  their  appropriate  heads. 

The  business  of  grafting  is  generally  performed  in  IMai'ch 
and  April :  there  are  various  methods  of  grafting,  but  the 
following  are  those  most  generally  practised  : 


28  OBSERVATIONS    ON    GRAFTING. 

Clkft  Grafting.  This  mode  of  grafting  is  generally 
practised  on  stocks  of  from  one  to  two  inches  in  diameter, 
and  may  be  performed  in  tlie  following  manner :  Let  the 
head  of  the  stock  be  carefully  sawed  off  at  a  part  free  from 
knots,  and  the  top  pared  smooth ;  then  with  a  thin  knife 
split  down  the  stock  through  the  centre  to  the  depth  of  about 
two  inches,  and  insert  a  wedge  to  keep  it  open  for  the 
reception  of  the  scion.  The  scion  must  be  prepared  in  the 
form  of  a  wedge,  with  an  eye,  if  possible,  in  the  upper  part, 
and  inserted  carefully,  so  that  the  inner  bark  of  the  scion 
and  of  tlie  stock  may  both  exactly  meet.  Large  stocks 
require  two  scions,  one  on  each  side,  and  sometimes  four 
are  inserted.  When  done,  tie  them  firmly  together  with 
bass,  and  then  cover  the  grafted  part  with  well-prepared 
clay,  in  an  oval  form,  and  close  it  securely. 

Side  Grafting.  This  mode  is  sometimes  practised  on 
those  parts  of  a  tree  where  a  limb  is  wanting.  There  are 
two  ways  in  which  it  may  be  performed.  1st.  The  scion 
may  be  prepared  in  the  same  manner  as  for  splice  grafting, 
and  the  bark  and  wood  on  the  side  of  the  stock  cut  sloping ; 
the  scion  being  then  adjusted  as  carefully  as  possible,  it  must 
be  bound  on  and  covered  with  clay.  2d.  The  scion  being 
cut  sloping,  a  cross-cut  is  to  be  made  in  the  side  of  the  tree 
on  the  top  of  a  perpendicular  slit ;  the  bark  of  a  tree  above 
the  cross-cut  must  be  pared  down  slanting  to  the  wood,  and 
the  bark  raised  as  in  budding  ;  the  scion  being  then  inserted, 
it  must  be  bound  fast,  and  covered  with  clay. 

Splice,  or  Whip  Grafting.  This  mode  is  often  practised 
ow-^mall  stocks,  and  it  succeeds  best  when  the  scion  and 
Ktock  are  of  an  equal  size.  The  scion,  which  should  consist 
of  young  wood  of  the  former  year's  growth,  may  be  cut  to 
the  length  of  about  four  inches.  This  and  the  stock  are 
each  to  be  cut  sloping,  for  an  inch  or  more,  and  tongued. 
Tongueing  consists  in  cutting  a  slit  in  the  middle  of  the  slope 
of  the  stock  downward,  and  a  conesponding  slit  in  the  scion 
upward ;  both  are  now  to  be  joined,  so  that  one  of  the  sides. 


OBSERVATIONS    ON    GRAFTING.  29 

if  not  both,  shall  perfectly  coincide,  and  then  securely  bound 
\\'ith  bass  matting,  and  covered  with  grafting  clay  or  compo- 
sition. As  soon  as  the  scion  and  stock  are  completely  united, 
the  bass  string  may  be  removed. 

Saddle  Grafting.  The  celebrated  Mr.  Knight  practised 
this  mode  of  grafting  on  very  small  stocks.  The  upper  part 
of  the  stock  is  prepared  in  the  form  of  a  wedge,  by  two 
sloping  cuts,  one  on  each  side.  The  scion  is  prepared  by 
slitting  it  upward,  and  paring  out  the  middle  part  on  each 
side  to  a  point.  When  the  stock  and  scion  are  of  equal 
size,  the  adjustment  may  be  made  perfect;  but  if  unequal, 
one  side  must  exactly  meet.  The  whole  is  secured  by  a 
string  of  bass  matting,  and  covered  with  composition  or 
clay ;  but  the  string  must  be  removed  as  soon  as  a  perfect 
union  has  taken  place. 

Root  Grafting,  This  operation  is  often  performed  on 
Grape  vines,  just  below  the  level  of  the  surface,  by  the  usual 
mode  of  cleft  grafting.  It  is  also  performed  on  portions  or 
pieces  of  root,  where  suitable  stocks  are  scarce. 

Grafting  by  Approach.  The  trees,  or  shrubs,  to  be 
grafted  in  this  mode,  must  be  growing  very  near  to  those  which 
are  to  furnish  the  grafts.  The  limbs  or  branches  of  each 
tree,  which  are  thus  to  be  united,  must  be  pared  with  a  long 
sloping  cut  of  several  inches,  nearly  to  the  centre ;  and  the 
parts  of  each  tree  thus  prepared  are  to  be  brought  together, 
and  finally  secured  by  a  bandage  of  matting,  so  that  the 
bark  shall  meet  as  nearly  as  possible.  The  graft  may  then 
be  covered  with  clay  or  composition ;  and  when  a  complete 
union  has  taken  place,  the  trees  or  shrubs  may  be  separated 
with  a  sharp  knife,  by  cutting  off  below  the  junction. 

It  may  be  here  observed  that,  as  young  grafted  trees  it 
the  nursery  progress  in  growth,  the  lower  side-limbs  should 
be    gradually   shortened,    but   not   suddenly   close-pruned 
they  are  essential  for  a  time  to  strengthen  the  trunks,  anc 
to  the  upright  and  perfect  formation  of  the  tree. 

3* 


30  Forsyth's  composition. 

DIRECTIONS  FOR  MAKING 

COMPOSITION,  GRAFTING  CLAY,  ETC., 

FOR    USE    ON   FRUIT    TREES. 

The  British  Parliament  gave  Mr.  Forsyth  a  valuable  pre- 
mium for  the  following  important  dii'ections  for  making  a 
composition  for  curing  diseases,  defects,  and  injuries  in  all 
kinds  of  fruit  and  forest  trees,  and  the  method  of  preparing 
the  trees,  and  laying  on  the  composition : 

Take  one  bushel  of  fresh  cow-dung,  half  a  bushel  of  lime 
rubbish  of  old  buildings  (that  from  the  ceilings  of  rooms  is 
preferable),  half  a  bushel  of  wood  ashes,  and  a  sixteenth 
part  of  a  bushel  of  23it  or  river  sand ;  the  three  last  articles 
are  to  be  sifted  fine  before  they  are  mixed ;  then  work  them 
well  together  with  a  spade,  and  afterward  with  a  wooden 
beater,  until  the  stuff  is  very  smooth,  like  fine  plaster  used 
for  ceilings  of  rooms. 

The  composition  being  thus  made,  care  must  be  taken  to 
prepare  the  tree  properly  for  its  application,  by  cutting  away 
all  the  dead,  decayed,  and  injured  part,  till  you  come  at  the 
fresh  sound  wood,  leaving  the  surface  of  the  wood  very 
smooth,  and  rounding  off  the  edges  of  the  bark  with  a  draw- 
knife,  or  other  instrument,  perfectly  smooth,  which  must  be 
particularly  attended  to  ;  then  lay  on  the  plaster  about  an 
eighth  of  an  inch  thick,  all  over  the  part  where  the  wood  or 
bark  has  been  so  cut  away,  finishing  off  the  edges  as  thin  as 
possible.  Then  take  a  quantity  of  dry  powder  of  wood 
ashes  mixed  with  a  sixth  part  of  the  same  quantity  of  the 
ashes  of  burnt  bones  ;  put  it  into  a  tin  box  with  holes  in  the 
top,  and  shake  the  powder  on  the  surface  of  the  plaster  till 
the  whole  is  covered  with  it,  letting  it  remain  for  half  an 
hour  to  absorb  the  moisture ;  then  apply  more  powder,  rub- 
bing it  on  gently  with  the  hand,  and  repeating  the  applica- 
tion of  the  powder  till  the  whole  plaster  becomes  a  dry, 
smooth  surface. 


WASH  FOR  THE  STEMS  OF  FRUIT  TREES,  ETC.  31 

If  any  of  the  composition  be  left  for  a  future  occasion,  it 
should  be  kept  in  a  tub  or  other  vessel,  and  urine  poured 
on  it  so  as  to  cover  the  surface,  otherwise  the  atmosphere 
"vvill  greatly  hurt  the  efficacy  of  the  application. 

When  lime  rubbish  of  old  buildings  cannot  be  easily  got, 
take  pounded  chalk  or  common  lime,  after  having  been 
slaked  a  month  at  least. 

As  the  growth  of  the  trees  will  gradually  effect  the  plas- 
ter, by  raising  up  its  edges  next  the  bark,  care  should  be 
taken,  when  that  happens,  to  rub  it  over  with  the  finger  when 
occasion  may  require  (which  is  best  done  when  moistened 
by  rain),  that  the  plaster  may  be  kept  whole,  to  prevent  the 
air  and  wet  penetrating  into  the  wound. 

As  the  best  way  of  using  the  composition  is  found,  by 
experience,  to  be  in  a  liquid  state,  it  must,  therefore,  be 
reduced  to  the  consistence  of  a  pretty  thick  paint,  by  mixing 
it  up  with  a  sufficient  quantity  of  urine  and  soapsuds,  and 
laid  on  with  a  painter's  brush.  The  powder  of  wood  ashes 
and  burned  bones  is  to  be  applied  as  before  directed,  patting 
it  down  with  the  hand. 

A  Wash  for  the  Stems  of  Fruit  Trees.  Take  a  peck  of 
fresh  cow-dung,  half  a  peck  of  quick  lime,  half  a  pound  of 
flour  of  sulphur,  and  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  lampblack.  Mix 
the  whole  together  with  as  much  urine  and  soa])suds  in  a 
boiling  state  as  will  form  the  ingredients  into  a  thick  paint. 

This  composition  may  be  applied  to  the  stems  of  young 
standard  trees  when  planted  out  in  the  orchard,  to  prevent 
their  being  injured  by  the  depredations  of  reptiles  and  insects. 

A  Wash  for  the  Stems  and  Branches  of  Fruit  Trees. 
Take  half  a  peck  of  quick  lime,  half  a  pound  of  flour  of 
sulphur,  and  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  lampblack.  Mix  the 
whole  together  with  as  much  boiling  water  as  will  form  the 
ingredients  into  a  thick  paint.  This  composition  is  recom- 
mended to  be  applied  to  the  stems  and  limbs  of  Apple  trees 
which  are  infested  with  the  IVhite  J\lealy  Insect,  having  pre- 
viously removed  the  moss  and  loose  bark  by  scraping  them 


32  CHOICE  OF  FRUIT  TREES  IN  THE  NURSERY. 

off  with  a  strong  knife,  or  some  other  instrument  adapted  to 
the  purpose. 

In  using  the  composition,  it  will  be  most  efficacious  if 
applied  in  a  warm  state,  or  something  more  than  blood  heat. 

On  young  trees,  strong  vinegar  will  effectually  destroy 
this  insect,  and  I  have  for  many  years,  in  my  own  nursery, 
used  it  for  this  purpose ;  but  this  would  be  too  expensive  to 
be  applied  when  the  trees  are  large. 

A  solution  of  potash  to  wash  the  stems  of  the  trees  early  in 
the  spring,  before  the  buds  expand,  will  effectually  destroy 
them. 

To  MAKE  Grafting  Composition.  Take  equal  parts  of 
rosin  and  beeswax,  and  a  little  tallow ;  melt  these  together 
and  mix  them ;  then  pour  the  composition  into  cold  water, 
and  as  it  hardens,  take  it  out  and  work  it  up  with  the  hands 
until  it  attains  a  due  consistence.  It  may  be  spread  on 
brown  paper,  which  being  cut  into  strips  of  suitable  size,  is 
quickly  applied,  and  in  cool  weather  may  be  warmed  by  the 
breath,  so  as  to  become  adhesive. 

Grafting  Clay  may  be  made  in  the  following  manner : 
Take  equal  parts  of  fresh  horse  manure,  free  from  litter, 
cow  manure,  and  good  stiff  clay ;  add  to  this  a  portion  of 
hair,  and  work  it  together  in  the  same  manner  as  masons 
mix  their  mortar.  It  should  be  well  beaten  and  incorpo- 
rated several  days  before  it  is  required  to  be  used. 


ON   THE  CHOICE   OF   FRUIT   TREES  IN   THE 
NURSERY. 

In  the  choice  of  fruit  trees,  all  possible  care  and  attention 
are  necessary ;  for,  to  have  trees  that  do  not  answer  the 
expectations  of  the  proprietor,  is  a  great  disappointment. 
As  the  young  gardener  may  need  such  directions  as  are  cal- 
culated to  govern  him  in  his  choice,  I  shall  endeavour  to 


CHOICE  OF  FRUIT  TREES  IN  THE  NURSERY.  33 

furnish  them.  Whatever  species  or  varieties  of  fruit  trees 
are  wanted,  choose  those  that  are  vigoious  and  straight,  and 
of  a  healthy  appearance.  Whether  they  have  been  grafted 
or  budded,  be  careful  to  select  such  as  have  been  worked 
on  young  stocks.  Grafts  and  buds  inserted  into  old,  crooked, 
stunted  stocks,  seldom  succeed  well.  Trees  that  are  healthy, 
have  always  a  smooth,  clean,  shining  bark;  such  as  are 
mossy,  or  have  a  rough,  wrinkled  bark,  or  are  the  least 
affected  by  canker,  should  be  rejected.  Canker  is  discover- 
able in  the  young  wood,  and  generally  two  or  three  inches 
above  the  graft  or  bud.  If  the  tiee  be  an  Apricot,  Nectar- 
ine, Peach,  or  Plum,  and  any  gum  appears  on  the  lower 
part  of  it,  do  not  fix  upon  that.  Let  the  tree  you  select  (if 
a  dwaif )  be  worked  about  six  inches  from  the  ground,  and 
only  one  graft  or  bud  should  be  upon  each  stock,  for  when 
there  are  more,  the  tree  cannot  be  brought  to  so  handsome 
a  form. 

In  some  of  the  following  articles,  it  will  be  seen  that 
several  descriptions  of  trees  may  be  transplanted  with  safety, 
even  when  far  advanced  in  growth.  When  trees  of  four  or 
five  years'  growth,  after  having  been  headed  down,  that  are 
healthy,  and  well  furnished  with  fruit-bearing  wood  close  up 
to  the  centre  of  the  tree,  can  be  obtained,  they  will  do  very 
well ;  but  great  care  is  requisite  in  taking  up,  removing,  and 
planting  such.  Let  the  tree  be  taken  up  with  as  great  a 
portion  of  the  roots  as  possible,  taking  care  not  to  bruise, 
split,  or  damage  them ;  for  want  of  attention  to  these  pomts, 
trees  often  become  diseased.  Whenever  (notwithstanding 
all  due  caution)  any  roots  have  been  accidentally  broken, 
split,  or  otherwise  damaged  in  taking  up  the  tree,  let  them 
be  cut  off;  or  if  they  cannot  be  well  spared,  let  the  damaged 
or  bruised  part  be  pared  clean  with  a  sharp  knife,  and  a  por- 
tion of  the  following  composition  be  spread  over  the  wound, 
in  order  to  keep  the  wet  from  it,  w^hich  would  other^vise 
injure  the  tree  :  To  equal  parts  of  soft  soap  and  tar,  add  a 
little  beeswax ;  let  them  be  boiled  together,  and  when  cold 


34  CHOICE  OF  FEUIT  TREES  IN  THE  NURSERY. 

they  may  be  used.  The  necessity  of  pruning-in  and  dress- 
ing mangled  roots  is  more  particularly  required  in  trees  of 
the  stone  fruit,  such  as  Apricots,  Nectarines,  Peaches,  Plums, 
&c, ;  for  without  the  application  of  some  remedy,  they  gum 
at  the  roots,  which  defect,  if  not  counteracted,  very  materi- 
ally injures  the  upper  part  of  the  trees,  which  may  become 
so  affected  as  never  to  recover  afterward ;  therefore,  great 
care  should  be  taken  not  to  occasion  such  injury ;  and  when 
accidents  happen,  all  due  caution  and  application  are  neces- 
sary to  promote  a  healthy  and  vigorous  growth. 

A  young  tree,  likely  to  do  well,  should  have  roots  nearly 
corresponding  to  the  branches ;  at  least,  it  should  have  one 
strong  root  in  a  similar  proportion  to  the  bole  of  the  tree, 
with  a  proper  distribution  of  branching  fibres.  Healthy 
roots  are  always  smooth  and  clear ;  their  colour  varies  a  lit- 
tle according  to  the  kind  of  tree,  but  the  older  the  roots  are, 
the  darker  the  colour  is. 

After  the  tree  is  taken  up,  be  careful,  in  conveying  it  to 
the  place  where  it  is  to  be  planted,  that  the  roots  are  not 
chafed  or  rubbed.  If  trees  are  to  be  conveyed  to  a  consid- 
erable distance,  they  should  be  well  guarded  by  straw,  or 
otherwise,  in  order  to  prevent  injury.  All  damaged  or  bruised 
roots  should  be  pruned  eis  soon  as  the  tree  is  taken  up,  but 
if  it  be  necessary  to  prune  away  any  sound,  good  roots,  such 
pruning  should  be  delayed  until  the  time  of  planting.  In 
pruning  away  roots,  always  let  them  be  finished  by  a  clear 
cut,  and  in  a  sloping  direction  ;  the  slope  should  be  toward 
the  under  stratum,  so  that  the  wet  may  not  be  allowed  to 
lodge  upon  the  part  so  cut.  When  trees  are  planted  at  an 
advanced  season  in  the  spring  of  the  year,  it  will  be  neces- 
sary to  prune  the  tops ;  and  if  trees  are  removed  that  have 
been  trained  three  or  four  years,  and  are  not  properly  sup- 
plied with  young  wood,  they  must  be  cut  down  either  wholly 
or  partially,  in  order  to  obtain  a  sufficiency.  In  practising 
this  upon  Apricot  and  Nectarine  trees,  &c.,  always  prune 
80  as  to  have  a  leading  shoot  close  below  the  cut,  as  it  is 


CHOICE  OF  FRUIT  TREES  IN  THE  NURSERY.  35 

very  rare  they  will  push  a  shoot  below,  unless  there  be  a 
lead.  This  attention  is  not  so  particularly  required  in  the 
Pear,  &c.,  as  such  will  generally  push  forth  shoots,  although 
no  leading  ones  are  left ;  but  in  all  kinds,  the  younger  the 
wood  is,  the  more  certain  are  shoots  to  be  produced.  If  a 
tree  that  has  been  under  training  for  one  or  two  years, 
should  only  have  one  good  strong  leading  shoot,  and  two  or 
three  weaker  ones  which  do  not  proceed  from  it,  let  the 
weak  shoots  be  pruned  clean  away,  and  shorten  the  strong 
one,  from  which  a  handsome  head  inay  afterward  be  formed. 
For  farther  directions  as  respects  pruning  or  planting  fruit 
trees,  &c.,  the  reader  is  referred  to  the  preceding  articles  on 
these  subjects ;  and  as  respects  any  species  of  fruit  in  par- 
ticular, directions  will  be  found  under  its  distinct  head. 

In  order  to  assist  the  reader  in  making  a  judicious  selection 
of  fruit  trees,  I  have  furnished  a  short  description  of  such 
species  and  varieties  as  are  in  great  repute  for  every  good 
quality.  Previous  to  making  this  selection,  I  carefully 
perused  '  Prince's  Pomological  Manual,'  '  Kenrick's  Ameri- 
can Orchardist,'  '  Lindley's  Guide  to  the  Orchard  and  Fruit 
Garden,'  and  'Manning's  Descriptive  Catalogue  of  Fruits;' 
beside  these  important  guides,  I  had  the  select  catalogues 
of  different  nurserymen  before  me,  and  have  chosen  such 
only  as  have  been  most  generally  recommended.  In  doing 
this,  I  have  had  difficulties  to  contend  with,  of  the  nature  of 
which,  none  but  those  who  have  duly  considered  the  subject 
can  form  any  idea.  The  facility  with  which  seedling  plants 
are  raised,  and  the  paternal  fondness  with  which  people  are 
apt  to  regard  their  own  seedlings,  have  occasioned  hundreds 
of  names  to  appear  in  the  various  catalogues,  which  tend 
not  a  little  to  swell  the  large  and  increasing  list  of  fruits. 

In  many  instances,  the  English,  French,  Spanish,  and 
other  names,  provisional,  local,  and  barbarous,  are  given  to 
the  same  variety ;  consequently,  same  fruits  appear  in  the 
different  catalogues  under  all  the  varied  names ;  and  the 
patience  and  labour  necessarily  requisite  for  ascertaining 


3G  CHOICE  OP  FRUIT  TREES  IN  THE  NURSERY. 

which  are  really  distinct  varieties,  and  which  are  most  worthy 
of  cultivation,  are  correspondingly  great. 

To  exemplify  :  Suppose  from  a  catalogue  of  Pears  the  fol- 
lowing names  should  be  selected  by  a  person  wishing  to  plant 
as  many  varieties  in  his  orchard,  namely,  Brown  Beurre, 
Betirre  Gris,  Beurre  Rouge,  Buerre  Dore,  Buerre  d'  Jlnjoti, 
Buerre  (V  Or,  Buerre  d'  Ambleuse,  Buerre  d'  Amboise,  Poire 
d'  Amboise,  Isambert,  Red  Beurre,  Golden  Beurre,  Beurre  dtl 
Roi.  White  Doyenne,  Doyenne  Blanc,  Doyenne,  Beurre 
Blanc,  Bonne-ante,  Saint  J\/lichael,  Carlisle,  Citron  de  Septem- 
bre,  Kaiserbirne,  Poire  a  court  quene,  Poire  de  Limon,  Valen- 
cia, Poire  de  JYeige,  Poire  de  Seigneur,  Poire  Monsieur,  White 
Beurre.  Here  is  a  list  of  twenty-nine  kinds,  as  the  pur- 
diaser  supposes,  but  when  the  trees  produce  their  fruit,  he 
finds,  to  his  great  disappointment  and  mortification,  that  he 
has  only  two  varieties,  namely,  the  Brown  Beurre  and  the 
White  Doyenne. 

In  making  out  the  descriptive  lists,  I  have  generally 
adopted  the  names  given  in  the  catalogues  of  the  most  cele- 
brated nurserymen,  as  a  heading ;  and  have  caused  the 
synonymes,  or  names  by  which  the  same  variety  is  known, 
OT  has  been  called,  to  be  printed  in  italics ;  thus,  my  lists  of 
about  four  hundred  varieties  of  the  various  species  of  fruit, 
will  embrace  what  has  been  deemed  by  some  as  different 
varieties,  perhaps  to  the  number  of  nearly  two  thousand. 


In  preparing  the  following  articles,  the  object  has  been 
to  furnish  information  which  would  entertain,  as  well  as 
instruct  the  reader.  Besides  the  authorities  quoted,  I  have 
gleaned  from  those  inexhaustible  tieasures  to  horticulturists, 
Loudon's  Encyclopaedia  of  Plants,  and  that  of  Gardening; 
but  on  account  of  the  brevity  necessarily  observed  through- 
out this  work,  it  has  been  found  impracticable  to  give  many 
entire  extracts ;  suffice  it  to  say,  that  the  historical  facts  are 
generally  collected  from  these  sources. 


APPLE.  37 

APPLE. 
PoMMiER.     Pyrtis  mains. 

The  Apple  being  so  closely  connected  with  our  wants  and 
enjoyments,  is  entitled  to  the  first  notice  in  the  catalogue  of 
our  fruits.  The  Apple  Orchard  is,  in  truth,  the  vineyard  of 
our  country ;  and  the  delicious  beverage  that  can  be  obtained 
from  some  of  the  varieties  of  this  excellent  fruit  being  cal- 
culated to  cheer  the  invalid,  as  well  as  to  strengthen  the 
healthy,  entitles  it  to  high  consideration.  It  is  one  of  our 
oldest  and  best  fruits,  and  has  become  completely  naturalized 
to  our  soil ;  none  can  be  brought  to  so  high  a  degree  of  per- 
fection with  so  little  trouble ;  and  of  no  other  are  there  so 
many  excellent  varieties  in  general  cultivation,  calculated 
for  almost  every  soil,  situation,  and  climate,  which  our  coun- 
try affords. 

The  Apple  tree  is  supposed  by  some  to  attain  a  great  age  : 
Haller  mentions  some  trees  in  Herefordshire,  England,  that 
were  a  thousand  years  old,  and  were  still  highly  prolific  ;  but 
Knight  considers  two  hundred  years  as  the  ordinary  duration 
of  a  healthy  tree,  grafted  on  a  crab  stock,  and  planted  in  a 
strong,  tenacious  soil.  Speedily  mentions  a  tree  in  an  or- 
chard at  Burtonjoice,  near  Nottingham,  about  sixty  years 
old,  with  branches  extending  from  seven  to  nine  yards  round 
the  bole,  which  in  some  seasons  produced  upward  of  a  hun- 
dred bushels  of  apples. 

The  Romans  had  only  twenty-two  varieties  in  Pliny's 
time.  There  are  upward  of  fifteen  hundred  now  cultivated 
in  the  garden  of  the  Horticultural  Society  of  London,  under 
name ;  the  catalogue  of  the  Linnaean  Botanic  Garden  at 
Flushinsr  contains  about  four  hundred  ;  and  one  of  our  en- 
tei-prising  horticulturists,  Mr.  WiUiam  Coxe,  of  Burlington, 
New  Jersey,  enumerated  one  hundred  and  thirty-three  kinds 
cultivated  in  the  United  States,  some  years  ago.  They  are 
usually  divided  into  dessert,  baking,  and  cider  fruits:  the 


38  APPLE. 

first,  highly  flavoured ;  the  second,  such  as  fall,  or  become 
mellow  in  baking  or  boiling;  and  the  third,  austere,  and 
generally  fruit  of  small  size.  Besides  this  division.  Apples 
are  classed  as  pippins  or  seedlings,  pearmains  or  somewhat 
pear-shaped  fruits,  rennets  or  queen-specked  fruits,  calviles 
or  white-skinned  fruits,  russets  or  brown  fruits,  and  some  are 
denominated  burknots. 

The  Apple  may  be  propagated  by  layers,  and  many  sorts 
by  cuttings  and  budding,  but  the  usual  mode  is  by  grafting 
on  seedling  stocks  of  two  or  three  years  growth,  and  for 
dwarfing,  on  stocks  of  the  Quince  or  Paradise  Apple.  All 
the  principal  varieties  are  cultivated  as  standards  in  the 
orchard,  and  should  be  planted  from  thirty  to  forty  feet  from 
each  other,  or  from  any  other  spreading  trees,  in  order  that 
the  sun  and  air  may  have  their  due  influence  in  maturing  the 
fruit. 

Many  of  the  dwarf  kinds  may  be  introduced  into  the 
Kitchen  Garden,  and  trained  as  espaliers,  or  dwarf  standards. 
An  Apple  Orchard  may  be  planted  at  any  time  after  the 
trees  are  two  years  old  from  the  graft ;  and  as  trees  from 
young  stocks  will  not  come  into  full  bearing  until  ten  or 
twelve  years  old,  they  will  bear  removing  with  care  at  any 
time  within  that  peiiod. 

Old  Apple  trees  may  be  grafted  with  superior  varieties  by 
being  headed  down  to  standard  height :  most  commonly,  in 
very  old  subjects,  the  branches  only  are  cut  within  a  foot  or 
two  of  the  trunk,  and  then  grafted  in  the  crown  or  cleft 
manner.  In  all  the  varieties  of  the  common  Apple,  the 
mode  of  bearing  is  upon  small  terminal  and  lateral  spurs, 
or  short  robust  shoots,  from  half  an  inch  to  two  inches  long, 
which  spring  from  the  younger  branches  of  two  or  more 
years'  growth,  appearing  at  first  at  the  extremity,  and  ex- 
tending gradually  to  the  side :  the  same  bearing  branches 
and  fruit  spurs  continue  many  years  fruitful. 

PrunixXG. — As,  from  the  mode  of  bearing,  Apple  trees  do 
not  admit  of  shortening  the  general  bearers,  it  should  only 


DESCRIPTIVE    LIST    OF    APPLES.  3D 

be  practised  in  extraordinary  cases.  If  trees  have  not  the 
most  desirable  form  when  three  or  four  years  old,  they  should 
be  judiciously  pruned  to  promote  regular  spreading  branches. 
In  annual  pruning,  the  main  branches  should  not  be  cut, 
unless  in  cases  of  decay ;  but  all  supeifluous  cross  branches 
and  dead  wood  should  be  taken  out,  and  the  suckers  eradi- 
cated.    Espaliers  require  a  summer  and  winter  pruning. 


SELECT  DESCRIPTIVE  LIST  OF  APPLES. 

SUMMER   FRUIT. 

American  Summfr  VTwiMAit^,  Early  Summer  Pearmain.  This  ap- 
ple is  of  mectiuin  size  and  oblong  form;  its  colour  bright  red  on  the  sunny 
side,  and  on  the  opposite  side  yellow,  streaked  or  blotched  with  red ;  the 
flesh  is  very  juicy,  tender,  fine  flavoured,  and  excellent.  It  ripens  early  in 
August,  and  is  good  either  for  the  dessert  or  for  cooking.  Tree  a  good 
bearer. 

Benont.  Fruit  of  medium  size,  form  round  and  regular;  the  flesh  yel- 
low, high  flavoured,  and  excellent;  it  ripens  in  July  and  August.  "The 
tree  bears  well,"  says  Mr.  Manning,  "and  should  be  found  in  every  good 
collection." 

Early  Bough.  Sweef  Bough.  The  size  of  this  fruit  varies  fVom  me- 
dium to  large  ;  its  colour  pale  yellow  ;  its  form  oblong ;  its  skin  smooth  ; 
flesh  tender,  juicy,  sweet,  and  excellent.     Ripens  early  in  August. 

Early  Crofton.  or  Irish  Peach  Apple.  An  Irish  apple,  of  the  middla 
size  and  flattish  shape;  of  an  olive  green  colour,  much  variegated  with 
red  ;  has  a  rich  saccharine  flavour  ;  is  much  esteemed  for  the  dessert,  and 
is  excellent  also  as  a  sauce  apple.  Ripens  in  August.  The  tree  grows 
well,  and  is  not  apt  to  canker. 

Early  Harvest,  Prince's  Yelloiv  Harvest,  Pomme  d^ete,  July  Pippin. 
A  very  early  apple,  of  medium  size  ;  bright  straw  colour ;  flesh  white  and 
tender ;  juice  rich,  lively,  and  very  fine.  The  tree  bears  young,  and  makes 
a  fine  garden  espalier ;  ripening  its  fruit  in  July  and  August. 

Early  Red  Juneatino,  Red  Margaret,  Early  Striped  Juneating, 
Strawberry,  Eve  Apple  of  the  Irish.  Fruit  below  the  middle  size;  skin 
greenish  yellow,  richly  and  closely  streaked  with  deep  red  ;  flesh  white, 
juicy,  breaking,  sub-acid,  very  rich  and  agreeable.     Ripens  early  in  August. 

Porter.  This  variety,  says  Mr.  Manning,  originated  on  the  farm  of  tho 
Rev.  Samuel  Porter,  of  Sherburne.  Massachusetts.  The  fruit  is  large,  ot 
oblong  shape;  the  skin  a  bright  yellow,  with  a  red  blush;  the  flesh  fine, 
sprightly,  and  agreeable.     Ripens  in  September  and  October. 

Red  Astr  atan.  This  beautiful  apple  is  of  medium  size,  and  roundish  ; 
the  skin  is  dark  red,  covered  with  thick  bloom  like  a  plum ;  the  flesh  is 
white,  tender,  and  somewhat  acid.     At  perfection  early  in  August 


40  DESCRIPTIVE    LIST    OF    APPLES, 

Red  Quahendon,  Devonshire  Quarenden.  Sack  Apple.  A  much  es- 
teemed Devonshire  apple ;  of  medium  size;  skin  of  a  uniform  deep  rich 
crimson,  witii  numerous  green  dots  intermixed  ;  flesh  of  a  brisk,  pleasant, 
and  peculiar  flavour.  A  very  desirable  dessert  apple :  from  August  to  No- 
vember ;  tree  very  productive. 

Summer  Pippin,  Pie  Apple.  This  fruit,  in  size  and  shape,  resembles 
the  Fall  Pippin  ;  it  differs  in  having  a  little  more  red  on  the  sunny  side, 
and  in  arriving  at  maturity  about  a  fortnight  earlier.  It  is  a  very  popular 
apple  in  New  Jersey. 

SuMMKK  Queen.  A  large  oblong  apple,  striped  with  red  on  a  yellow 
ground  ;  ths  flesh  is  yellow,  very  high  flavoured,  and  excellent.  The  tree 
is  of  vigorous  growth,  says  Mr.  Manning,  a  great  bearer,  and  ripens  its  fruit 
in  August. 

Summer  Rose,  Harvest  Apple.  A  very  beautiful  and  excellent  fruit,  of 
moderate  size  and  roundish  form  ;  the  skin  is  yellow,  striped  and  mottled 
with  red  ;  the  flesh  is  sweet,  juicy,  and  fine:  in  July  and  August ;  tree  a 
great  bearer. 

Williams's  Early,  JVilliams's  Favnitrife  Red.  This  apple  originated 
in  Roxbury,  Mass. ;  it  is  of  medium  size  ;  oblong  form  ;  the  skin  a  bright 
and  deep  red ;  the  flavour  pleasant  and  agreeable.  The  tree  is  a  great 
bearer,  and  its  fruit  commands  a  good  price  in  the  Boston  markets:  in  Au- 
gust and  September. 

AUTUMN   FRUIT. 

Alexander,  Empernr  Alexander,  Apnrta.  Fruit  very  lar^e,  somewhat 
cordate,  smallest  at  the  crown;  of  a  greenish  yellow  colour,  striped  or  mar- 
bled with  red;  pulp  tender,  sweet,  rich,  and  aromatic:  ripens  in  October, 
and  lasts  till  Christmas. 

American  Nonpareil.  Doctor  Apple.  A  beautiful  apple  of  medium 
size  and  roundish  form ;  its  colour  yellow,  streaked  and  stained  with  red 
on  the  sunny  side  ;  flesh  firm,  juicy,  and  agreeable.  A  very  fine  market 
apple  in  October  and  November.     Tree  a  great  bearer. 

BoXFORD.  A  very  superior  variety,  says  Mr.  Manning  ;  which  was  first 
cultivated  at  Boxford,  Massachusetts.  Fruit  roundish,  of  medium  size ; 
skin  striped  with  red  and  yellow  ;  the  flesh,  yellow,  rich,  and  good.  The 
tree  is  a  great  bearer,  and  ripens  its  fruit  in  October. 

Cumberland  Spice.  A  fine  dessert  fruit,  large,  rather  oblong;  of  a 
pale  yellow  colour,  clouded  near  the  base ;  the  flesh  white,  tender,  and  of 
fine  flavour.     It  ripens  in  autumn,  and  will  keep  till  February. 

DowNTON  Pippin,  Elton  Golden  Pippin,  Knighfs  Golden  Pippin.  The 
Downton  Golden  Pippin  is  a  most  abundant  bearer,  and  the  fruit  extreme- 
ly well  adapted  for  market;  it  is  rather  larger  than  the  common  Golden 
Pippin;  skin  nearly  smooth  ;  yellow,  sprinkled  with  numerous  specks; 
flesh  yellowish,  crisp,  with  a  brisk,  rich,  sub-acid  juice  ;  specific  gravity 
10.79.     Ripe  in  October  and  November,  and  will  keep  good  till  Christmas. 

Drap  d'Or  of  France,  Clofk  of  Gold.  This  apple  is  very  large  and 
handsome;  its  form  globular;  its  colour  a  fine  yellow,  with  dark  specks; 
its  flesh  white,  firm,  and  rich  flavoured.  The  tree  bears  well,  and  should 
be  fonnd  in  every  good  collection.  Fruit  in  perfection  from  September  to 
November. 


DESCRIPTIVE    LIST    OF    APPLES.  41 

Fall  Harvey.  This  is  a  large  and  handsome  fruit,  the  shape  flat,  th« 
Bkin  light  yellow,  with  a  bright  red  cheek  ;  flesh  yellow,  firm,  rich,  and  high 
flavoured.  Mr.  Manning  considered  it  "the  finest  Fall  and  liarly  Winter 
variety;  a  good  bearer,  and  deserving  extensive  cultivation." 

Fall  Pippin,  Cobbeft's  Fall  Pippin,  Reinnete  Blanche  D'Espagne, 
D'Espagne,  De  Rateaii,  Concombre  Ancien,  White  Spanish  Reinette,  Co- 
muesar.  This  extremely  valuable  variety  stands  in  the  first  class  of  au- 
tumn fruits,  and  is  very  large ;  its  form  is  roundish  oblong  ;  skin  smooth, 
yellowish  green,  tinged  with  orange  ;  flesh  yellowish,  crisp,  and  tender, 
with  a  very  rich,  sugary  juice.  It  ripens  in  October,  and  keeps  well  as  a 
fall  apple. 

Fameuse,  Pnmme  de  Ncige.  A  Canadian  apple  of  great  beauty  ;  in  size 
medium  ;  skin  light  green,  stained  with  bright  red  ;  flesh  white,  very  ten- 
der ;  juice  saccharine,  with  a  musky  perfume :  ripe  in  October,  and  will 
keep  good  till  Christmas.     Tree  hardy  and  productive. 

Golden  Russet,  A7-nmntic  Russet.  A  dessert  apple,  of  medium  size, 
and  of  a  pale  copper-coloured  russet ;  in  great  repute  for  its  rich  saccharine, 
aromatic,  and  slightly  musky  flavour.  The  tree  is  hardy  and  very  produo- 
live:  in  October  and  November. 

Gravenstein.  Fruit  rather  large  and  compressed  ;  of  a  yellowish  green 
colour,  striped  with  red  ;  flesh  crisp,  and  high  flavoured  :  ripens  in  October, 
and  lasts  till  April.  This  variety  originated  in  Germany,  and  is  considered 
the  best  dessert  apple  in  that  country. 

Kenricic's  Red  Autumn.  A  native  apple  of  largish  dimensions,  raised 
by  John  Kenrick,  Esq.,  of  Newton,  Massachusetts;  colour  pale  green  in 
the  shade,  but  bright  red  next  the  sun,  and  streaked  with  deeper  red  ;  the 
flesh  white,  stained  more  or  less  with  red  ;  tender,  juicy,  and  rich,  with  an 
agreeable  sub-acid  flavour:  ripe  in  October. 

Kri.HAM  Hill.  This  apple,  one  of  the  most  saleable  varieties  in  Sa- 
len>  markets,  originated  on  the  farm  of  Dr.  Kilham,  in  Wenham,  Essex 
county,  Massachusetts  ;  the  size  is  above  medium ;  form  a  little  oblong ;  the 
skin  yellow,  striped  with  red  ;  the  flesh  is  yellow  and  high  flavoured  :  from 
September  to  November. 

Monmouth  Pippin.  This  variety  originated  in  Monmouth  county,  New 
Jersey.  It  is  above  medium  size,  of  greenish  colour,  striped  with  red;  flesh 
firm,  and  of  pleasant  flavour.  It  is  considered  one  of  the  most  saleable 
and  productive  varieties  of  the  season  ;  and  will  keep  good  till  after  Christ- 
mas. 

Orange  Sweetino.  Yellow  Sweeting,  Golden  Sweeting.  This  variety 
is  much  cultivated  near  Hartford,  Connecticut,  for  the  Boston,  Providence, 
and  Philadelphia  markets  ;  the  fruit  is  rather  large,  flattened  at  its  base  and 
summit;  the  colour  yellow,  or  orange;  flesh  very  sweet  and  excellent :  from 
September  to  December. 

Red  Ingesthic.  A  first-rate  dessert  apple,  of  medium  size,  and  bright 
yellow  colour,  deeply  tinged  with  red ;  raised  by  Mr.  Knight,  President  ot 
the  London  Horticultural  Society.  The  tree  bears  well  in  America,  and 
ripens  its  fruit  in  October,  which  is  very  rich,  juicy,  high  flavoured,  and 
grateful  to  the  palate. 

Red  and  Green  Swketino,  Prince's  Large  Red  and  Green  Siveeting. 
The  fruit  is  of  oblong  shape  ;  colour  green,  striped  with  red  ;  the  pulp  is 
very  sweet,  tender,  and  of  delicious  flavour:  from  September  to  November, 

4* 


42  DESCRIPTIVE    LIST    OP    APPLES. 

Seek  no  Farther,  Rambo,  or  Romanite.  This  apple  is  much  culti- 
vated in  Pennsylvania  and  New  Jersey.  Its  form  is  fiat,  resembling  the 
Vandervere  in  appearance,  but  is  a  more  juicy  fruit ;  the  skin  pale  yellow, 
streaked  with  red;  flesh  tender  and  sprightly  during  the  autumn  months. 

Stroat,  Straat.  A  fine  autumn  apple,  introduced  by  the  late  Jesse 
Buel,  Esq.,  of  Albany;  in  size  medium;  form  rather  oblong ;  skin  yellow- 
ish green  ;  flesh  yellow  and  tender  ;  juice  rich  and  lively  :  in  use  from  Sep- 
tember to  December. 

Yellow  Ingestric-  A  beautiful  apple,  raised  by  Mr.  Knight,  President 
of  the  London  Horticultural  Society.  The  size  is  small,  form  round  and 
regular  ;  the  colour  of  the  skin  golden  yellow,  with  some  black  spots  ;  the 
flesh  yellow,  firm,  and  delicate.  The  tree  is  an  abundant  bearer,  and  ripens 
its  fruit  in  October.  The  late  Judge  Buel  considered  this  variety  as  likely 
to  rival  the  Lady  apple  as  a  fashionable  fruit. 

York  Russetino.  A  very  large  russety  apple,  well  known  about  Bos- 
ton. Its  form  is  rather  oblong  ;  its  flesh  pleasant  and  agreeably  acid ;  an 
excellent  apple  :  from  October  to  December. 

WINTER   FRUIT. 

.^sopus  SpiTZENBURG.  A  bcautiful  apple  ;  large  and  oval ;  of  red  co- 
lour, covered  with  numerous  white  specks  ;  the  flesh  is  yellowish  ;  slightly 
acid,  and  of  the  finest  flavour  :  ripens  in  October,  and  continues  good  till 
February. 

Baldwin.  No  apple  in  the  Boston  markets  is  more  popular  than  tliis  ; 
it  is  rather  above  medium  size  ;  its  form  round ;  its  colour  bright  red, 
streaked  with  yellow  ;  its  flesh  is  juicy,  rich,  saccharine,  with  a  most  agree- 
able acid  flavour.  The  tree  bears  fruit  abundantly,  which  ripens  in  Novem 
ber,  and  keeps  till  February  or  March. 

Barcelona  Pearmain,  Speckled  Golden  Reinette,  Reinette  Rouge 
Reinctte  Rousse,  Reinette  des  Carmes,  Glace  Rouge,  Kleiner  Casseler  Re- 
inette. This  variety  is  said  to  be  a  very  produftive  and  excellent  dessert 
apple;  fruit  of  medium  size;  oval,  not  angular;  colour  brownish  yellow 
in  the  shade,  deep  red  next  the  sun ;  flesh  firm,  yellowish,  with  a  rich  aro- 
matic agreeable  acid :  from  November  till  February. 

Beauty  of  the  West.  A  large,  oblate,  beautiful  fruit,  of  yellow  and 
red  colour ;  its  flesh  juicy,  rich,  saccharine,  and  firm.  A  good  marketable 
apple  from  November  until  March. 

Bell  Flower.  A  very  large  and  beautiful  apple  ;  its  colour  bright  yel- 
low, with  an  occasional  blush  on  the  sunny  side;  its  form  oblong ;  the  flesh 
tender,  juicy,  rich,  and  finely  flavoured,  and  is  alike  excellent  for  the  dessert 
and  for  cooking.  It  ripens  early  in  November,  and  will  keep  all  the  win- 
ter.   It  is  a  valuable  market  fruit. 

Blenheim  Pippin,  Woodstock  Pippin.  Blenheim  Orange.  Fruit  large, 
roundish,  of  a  yellowish  colour,  tinged  with  red  next  the  sun ;  pulp  sweet 
and  high  flavoured  :  ripe  in  November,  and  keeps  till  March:  a  very  supe- 
rior dessert  apple. 

Blub  Pearmain  This  variety  is  well  known  about  Boston  as  a  large 
apple,  of  red  colour,  covered  with  a  tense  blue  bloom,  and  of  a  delicious 
flavour  ;  good  as  a  dessert  or  for  cooking :  from  October  to  January.  The 
tree  grows  strong,  and  is  very  productive. 


DESCRIPTIVE    LIST    OF    APPLES.  43 

Court  Pendu,  Capendu,  Court  Pendu  Plat,  Garnnn's  Apple.  An  es- 
timable dessert  apple,  of  medium  size  ;  in  shape  round,  depressed  ;  the  co- 
lour yellow,  a  good  deal  covered  with  full  red ;  it  is  of  a  higli  saccharine 
flavour  and  of  close  consistence  ;  the  fruit  keeps  till  February  or  March, 
The  tree  grows  upright,  and  bears  well. 

Danvers  Winter  Sweet,  Epses  Sweet,  Danvers  Sweeting.  This  va- 
riety originated  at  Danvers,  near  Salem,  Massachusetts;  fruit  of  medium 
size  ;  a  little  oblong  ;  skin  yellow,  slightly  tinged  with  red  ;  its  flesh  sweet 
and  excellent  cooked,  or  as  a  dessert :  from  November  to  April.  The  tree  is 
a  great  bearer,  and  of  rapid  growth. 

DoMiNE,  Dumini.  A  first  rate  winter  apple,  of  medium  size  and  green- 
ish yellow  colour,  clouded  with  brown  blotches  ;  the  flesh  is  juicy,  tender, 
and  excellent.     Tree  a  great  bearer. 

Golden  Ball,  Golden  Apple.  A  beautiful  and  superior  fruit  from  the 
State  of  Maine ;  of  large  size  and  golden  yellow  colour  ;  flesh  firm  ;  juice 
very  rich,  sweet,  aromatic,  with  a  good  proportion  of  acid.  It  will  keep 
good  from  November  to  April. 

Golden  HARVEy,  Brandy  Apple.  A  dessert  apple,  not  larger  than  the 
Golden  Pippin  ;  colour  light  yellow,  with  a  flush  of  red,  and  embroidered 
with  a  roughish  russet.  It  is  called  Brandy  Apple  from  the  superior  spe- 
cific strength  of  its  juice,  being  10.85  ;  it  is  of  remarkably  close  texture, 
very  rich  in  flavour,  and  will  keep  till  April  or  May. 

Green  Sweet,  Green  Sweeting,  Green  Winter  Sweet.  This  apple  is 
much  cultivated  in  Massachusetts.  It  is  of  medium  size;  the  skin  dull 
green,  approaching  to  yellow  ;  the  flesh  very  sweet  and  delicious.  It  pos- 
sesses the  valuable  properly  of  retaining  its  soundness  till  May  or  June. 

HuBBAKiisTON  Nonesuch.  A  large  apple  of  globular  form  ;  red  and 
yellow  colour,  streaked  and  blotched  ;  the  flesh  is  juicy  and  of  excellent 
flavour  :  from  December  to  March.  The  tree  is  of  vigorous  growth,  a  great 
bearer,  and  worthy  of  extensive  cultivation. 

Jonathan,  King  Philip,  New  Spitzenburgh,  Philip  Rick.  A  winter 
fruit  very  generally  admired  in  the  State  of  New  York.  It  is  of  medium 
size  ;  the  skin  of  pale  yellow  and  bright  red  colour,  occasionally  tinged  with 
purple ;  flesh  tender,  juice  abundant,  and  highly  flavoured.  This  fruit  will 
keep  till  May. 

Lady  Apple,  Pomme  d'Api.  Fruit  small,  flat;  of  pale  yellow  colour, 
tinged  with  a  deep  red  on  the  side;  flesh  crisp,  sprightly,  and  pleasant; 
ripens  in  November,  and  continues  till  April.  It  is  a  very  saleable  fruit 
on  account  of  its  great  beauty. 

Ladies'  Sweeting,  Winter  Sweeting.  This  apple  is  above  medium 
size;  conical;  skin  yellow,  streaked,  and  mottled  with  red  ;  flesh  juicy, 
sweet,  and  high  flavoured  :  from  November  to  May. 

Lemon  Pippin.  An  old  and  much  esteemed  dessert  apple;  of  medium 
size  and  oval  shape,  much  like  a  lemon  both  in  form  and  colour,  having  a 
firm  texture,  brisk  flavour,  and  plenty  of  acid :  from  October  to  March. 
Tree  handsome,  and  a  great  bearer. 

Maiden's  Blush,  Hawthornden.  Fruit  large,  roundish  ;  skin,  pale 
greenish  yellow,  tinged  with  blush  ;  the  pulp  is  white,  tender,  juicy,  and 
acid  ;  and  the  fruit  is  good  for  the  table  as  well  as  for  all  kitchen  purposes: 
in  September  and  October.     The  tree  is  hardy  and  prolific. 

Malcarle,  Charles  Apple,  Mela  Carta,  Pomme  Finale.     A  far-famed 


44  DESCRIPTIVE    LIST    OF    APPLES. 

fruit.  In  the  climate  of  Italy,  this  is  supposed  to  be  the  best  apple  in  the 
world.  It  is  cultivated  extensively  in  the  territories  of  Genoa,  as  an  article 
of  export  and  commerce  to  Nice,  Barcelona,  Cadiz,  and  Marseilles  The 
fruit  is  rather  large,  its  form  inclining  to  globular.  Its  beautiful  waxen  skin 
is  a  little  marbled  with  a  very  faint  green  near  the  eye  ;  its  colour  in  the 
shade  is  a  pale  yellow,  tinged  with  flaming  crimson  next  the  sun  ;  the  flesh 
is  white,  tender,  delicate,  sweet,  with  the  fragrant  perfume  of  roses.  It 
ripens  in  September,  and  will  keep  till  spring. 

Menagere.  Mr.  Manning  pronounced  this  to  be  the  largest  apple  he 
had  seen ;  the  form  is  flat  like  a  large  English  turnip ;  the  skin  of  a  light 
yellow ;  the  flesh  pleasant,  but  more  adapted  to  the  kitchen  than  the  des- 
sert :  from  October  to  February.      It  bears  well  trained  as  a  dwarf. 

Minister.  A  native  apple  of  large  size,  and  oblong  shape  ;  the  skin  a 
light  greenish  yellow,  striped  with  bright  red  ;  flesh  yellow,  light,  high  fla- 
voured, and  excellent.  Mr.  Manning  considered  this  as  one  of  the  finest 
fruits  that  New  England  ever  produced.  It  ripens  in  November,  and  will 
keep  till  after  Christmas. 

Monstrous  Pippin,  Baltimore,  Gloria  Mtindi,  Ox  Apple.  Fruit  of  enor- 
mous size,  often  weighing  twenty-flve  ounces  or  more ;  of  a  pale  yellowish 
green  and  blush  colour,  with  white  spots  ;  and  of  a  sprightly  flavour  ;  ex 
cellent  for  cooking  :  ripens  in  October,  and  continues  fit  for  use  till  January 

Murphy.  This  apple  in  appearance  resembles  the  Blue  Pearmain  ;  the 
shape  is  more  oblong,  the  size  not  so  large  ;  the  skin  pale  red,  streaked  or 
blotched  with  darker  red,  and  covered  with  blue  bloom  ;  flesh  white,  tender, 
and  good.  Raised  from  seed  by  Mr.  Murphy,  and  introduced  to  notice  by 
Mr.  Manning. 

Newtown  Pippin,  American  Newtown  Pippin,  Yellmo  Newtown  Pip- 
pin.  This  variety,  when  perfectly  matured,  is  considered  by  some  the  finest 
apple  in  our  country;  its  skin  is  green,  changing  to  an  olive  yellow  at  ma- 
turity, having  a  thin  russet  covering  the  greatest  part  of  the  base  ;  flesh 
pale  yellow  and  firm  ;  juice  saccharine,  and  possessing  a  rich  and  highly 
aromatic  flavour :  from  December  to  April. 

Newtown  Spitzenburo,  Matchless.  A  beautiful  apple  of  medium  size; 
skin  streaked,  and  tinged  with  red  and  yellow;  flesh  yellow,  rich,  and  high- 
ly flavoured :  from  October  till  February. 

Norfolk  Beaupin.  Fruit  middling  size,  flatfish,  of  a  deep  red  and  pale 
green  colour  ;  the  flesh  is  firm  and  savoury  ;  the  tree  hardy,  upright,  and 
a  good  bearer  ;  fruit  excellent  for  use  in  the  kitchen,  and  highly  esteemed 
for  the  dessert.  It  ripens  in  November,  and  is  frequently  to  be  obtained 
in  England  in  July  following. 

Ortley  Pippin,  Orfley  Apple,  Vandyne,  Woolman's  Long  of  Prince.  A 
fruit  very  much  resembling  the  Yellow  Newtown  Pippin,  but  a  little  more 
oval ;  skin  olive  yellow  at  maturity,  partially  covered  with  pink  and  rus- 
set ;  flesh  yellow,  crisp,  and  breaking;  very  juicy,  with  the  same  pine-apple 
flavour  which  distinguishes  the  Newtown  Pippin :  good  from  November  to 
April. 

Pinnock's  Red  Winter,  Pelican.  Fruit  very  large  and  compressed ; 
of  deep  red  colour,  streaked  with  yellow  ;  flesh  tender,  juicy,  and  of  a 
sweet  and  pleasant  flavour  :  ripens  in  November,  and  will  keep  good  till 
March,    It  is  a  evry  popular  apple  in  the  Philadelphia  markets. 

Pumpkin  Sweet,  RamsdeCs  Red  Pumpkin  Sweet.    A  beautiful  fruit, 


DESCRIPTIVE    LIST    OF    APPLES.  45 

oyer  medium  size,  round,  inclined  to  oblong ;  of  a  dark  red  colour,  covered 
with  dense  blue  bloom  ;  flesh  tender,  rich,  and  sweet.  It  ripens  in  Novem* 
ber,  and  keeps  till  January.    The  trees  bear  prodigious  crops. 

Rhode  Isla>d  Greeniuc.  Fruit  large  and  depressed;  skin  at  ma- 
turity greenish  yellow  ;  flesh  slightly  acid,  and  of  the  finest  flavour  :  ripens 
in  November,  and  continues  till  April.  A  most  estimable  apple  for  cooking 
as  well  as  for  the  dessert. 

RiBSTONE  Pippin,  Formosa  Pippin,  Trover's  Apple,  Glory  of  York. 
Fruit  of  medium  size,  roundish,  and  partially  depressed  ;  of  a  pale  yellow 
colour,  tinged  with  red  ;  pulp  slightly  acid,  and  of  fine  flavour :  ripens  in 
November,  and  continues  till  April-  It  is  one  of  the  most  popular  dessert 
apples  in  England. 

RoxBURY  Russet,  Boston  Russet,  Pineapple  Rtisstt.  This  variety  is 
cultivated  extensively  in  Massachusetts  for  the  Boston  markets,  and  for  ex- 
portation. The  fruit  is  of  medium  size ;  of  a  fine  yellow  russet  colour, 
mixed  with  dull  red ;  flesh  white,  juicy,  rich,  sub-acid,  and  excellent ;  for 
use  in  winter,  and  will  keep  till  June. 

SwAAR  Apple.  A  much  celebrated  winter  table  fruit  in  some  parts  of 
New  York  and  New  Jersey,  it  is  a  large  apple  of  uncommon  flavour  and 
richness ;  skin  of  a  greenish  yellow,  tinged  with  blush.  The  tree  is  very 
productive,  and  highly  deserving  cultivation  in  every  collection  of  fine  fruit. 
Good  till  March. 

Vandevere.  An  apple  of  medium  size,  the  form  flat;  skin  pale  red, 
with  rough  yellowish  blotches  ;  flesh  yellow  and  tender ;  juice  plentiful, 
rich,  and  sprightly  :  from  October  till  January. 

Western  Russet,  Putnam's  Russet.  This  variety  is  extensively  cul- 
tivated in  Muskingum  county,  Ohio,  where  it  is  esteemed  above  all  others 
of  their  fine  winter  varieties.  It  is  above  the  middle  size,  of  a  greenish 
yellow  colour,  covered  with  russety  blotches,  and  will  keep  all  the  winter. 

White  Winter  Calville,  Calvilie  Blanche  d'Hiver,  Bonnet  Carre. 
This  fruit  is  large  ;  its  colour  at  maturity  bright  yellow,  tinged  with  red  ; 
its  form  rather  flat;  flesh  white,  tender,  and  pleasant :  from  November  to 
March.     Tree  an  abundant  bearer. 

Wine  Apple,  Hay's  Winter,  Large  Winter  Red,  Fine  Winter.  A  va- 
riety highly  esteemed  in  the  Philadelphia  markets;  the  fruit  is  large;  of 
bright  red  colour,  striped  with  yellow,  the  stalk  end  russety ;  its  flesh  is 
rich,  aromatic,  and  pleasant:  from  October  to  February.  The  tree  bears 
young  and  abundantly. 

CIDER   FRUIT. 

Campfield.  or  Newark  Sweeting.  This  apple  is  next  in  reputation, 
as  a  cider  fruit,  to  the  Harrison,  and  is  often  mixed  with  that  apple  in  equal 
proportions  when  ground ;  it  is  of  the  middle  size,  skin  smooth,  of  red  and 
yellow  colour ;  the  flesh  is  white,  firm,  sweet,  and  rich. 

Granniwinkle.  Fruit  of  moderate  size,  rather  oblong  ;  the  skin  a  dark 
red,  somewhat  rough  ;  flesh  yellow,  sweet,  and  rich.  It  is  commonly 
mixed  with  the  Harrison  for  making  cider  of  a  superior  quality  :  ripe  in 
November. 

Hewe's  Virginia  Crab.  From  this  fruit  is  obtained  the  celebrated 
Crab  Cider ,  it  is  of  small  size,  nearly  round ;  skin  of  a  dull  red,  streaked 


46  APRICOT. 

with  greenish  yellow ;  the  flesh  is  fibrous  and  astringent ;  juice  acid  and 
austere, 

Hahrison,  Harrison's  Newark.  This  fruit  is  much  celebrated  in  New 
Jersey  as  a  cider  apple  ;  it  is  somewhat  ovale,  below  the  middle  size ;  tho 
skin  is  yellow,  with  black  spots  ;  flesh  yellow,  firm,  rich,  and  sprightly. 
Ten  bushels  will  make  a  barrel  of  exquisite  cider,  from  which  may  be  taken 
fourteen  quarts  of  distilled  spirits. 


APRICOT. 
Abricotier.     Prwius  Armeniaca. 

The  fruit  of  the  Apricot  is  next  in  esteem  to  the  Peach, 
and  as  it  ripens  three  or  four  weeks  earlier,  should  be  more 
generally  cultivated.  The  flowers  appear  in  April,  on  the 
shoots  of  the  preceding  year,  and  on  spurs  of  two  or  more 
years'  growth,  and  the  fruit  ripens  in  July  and  August.  The 
London  Horticultural  Society's  catalogue  describes  fifty-four 
sorts,  and  Messrs.  Prince  have  eighteen  in  their  catalogue ; 
besides  these,  is  the  Peach  Apricot,  a  large  fruit,  supposed 
to  be  a  hybrid  between  a  Peach  and  an  Apricot. 

Our  enterprising  fellow  citizen,  Mr.  AVilliam  Shaw,  has 
succeeded  for  many  years  in  maturing  large  quantities  of  this 
excellent  fruit  on  standards  ;  but  they  lipen  best  when  trained 
against  close  fences.  In  England  some  of  the  varieties  are 
cultivated  as  standards  and  espaliers ;  but  they  seldom  bear 
much  fruit  under  ten  or  twelve  years,  and  then  the  fruit  is 
abundant  and  of  the  finest  flavour.  They  are  commonly  cul- 
tivated as  wall  trees,  in  an  east  or  west  aspect ;  for  if  they 
are  planted  to  face  the  south,  the  great  heat  causes  them  to 
be  mealy  before  they  are  eatable.  New  varieties  are  pro- 
cured from  seed,  as  in  the  Peach,  and  approved  sorts  are 
perpetuated  by  budding  on  plum  stocks,  &c. 

The  varieties  of  the  Apricot,  in  general,  bear  chiefly  upon 
the  young  shoots  of  last  year,  and  casually  upon  small  ispurs 
rising  on  the  two  or  three  years'  old  fruit  branches.  The 
Moor  Park  bears  chiefly  on  the  last  year's  shoots,  and  oa 


APRICOT.  47 

close  spurs  formecl  on  the  two  year  old  wood.  The  bearing 
shoots  emit  the  blossom  buds  immediately  from  the  eyes 
along  the  sides,  and  the  buds  have  a  round  and  swelling  ap- 
pearance. 

Apricot  trees  may  be  planted  at  any  time  after  the  head 
is  formed  :  some  head  them  down  in  the  nursery  bed,  and 
remove  them  to  their  destined  places  when  five  or  six  years 
old. 

Standards  will  require  only  occasional  pruning,  to  regulate 
such  branches  as  may  be  too  numerous,  too  extended,  or 
cross  formed,  and  to  remove  any  casually  unfruitful  parts 
and  dead  wood  ;  but  the  regular  branches,  forming  the  head 
of  the  tree,  should  not  be  shortened  unless  necessary. 

The  general  culture  of  the  wall  Apiicots  comprehends  a 
summer  and  winter  course  of  regulation,  by  pruning  and 
training.  The  fan  method  is  generally  adopted,  but  some 
prefer  training  horizontally.  With  young  trees  some  con- 
trive to  fill  the  wall  by  heading  down  twice  a  year. 

The  winter,  or  early  spring  management,  comprehends  a 
general  regulation  both  of  the  last  year's  shoots  and  the 
older  branches.  A  general  supply  of  the  most  regularly 
situated  young  shoots  must  be  every  where  retained,  foi  suc- 
cessional  bearers  the  ensuing  year.  Cut  out  such  branches 
as  are  not  furnished  with  competent  supplies  of  young  wood, 
or  with  fruit  spurs,  to  make  room  for  training  the  most  pro- 
mising branches  retained.  Generally,  observe  in  this  pruning 
to  retain  one  leading  shoot  at  the  end  of  each  branch  ;  either 
a  naturally  placed  terminal,  or  one  formed  by  cutting  (where 
a  vacancy  is  to  be  furnished)  into  a  proper  leader.  Let  the 
shoots  retained  for  bearers  be  moderately  shortened ;  reduce 
strong  shoots  in  the  least  proportion — cutting  off  one  fourth 
or  less  of  their  length  ;  from  weak  shoots  take  away  a  third, 
and  sometimes  a  half  This  shortening  will  conduce  to  the 
production  of  a  good  supply  of  lateral  shoots  the  ensuing 
summer,  from  the  lower  and  middle  placed  eyes ;  whereas 
without  it,  the  new  shoots  would  proceed  mostly  from  the 


48  APRICOTS. 

top,  and  leave  the  under  part  of  the  principal  branches  naked, 
and  the  lower  and  middle  parts  of  the  tree  unfurnished  with 
proper  supplies  of  bearing  wood.  Never  prune  below  all 
the  blossom  buds,  except  to  provide  wood,  in  which  case 
cut  nearer  to  the  origin  of  the  branch.  As,  in  these  trees, 
small  fruit  spurs,  an  inch  or  two  long,  often  appear  on  some 
of  the  two  or  three  years'  bi'anches  furnished  with  blossom 
buds,  these  spurs  should  generally  be  retained  for  bearing. 
As  each  tree  is  pruned,  lay  in  the  branches  and  shoots  from 
three  to  six  inches  distance,  and  nail  them  straight  or  close 
to  the  fence  or  wall. 

The  summer  pruning  is  principally  to  regulate  the  young 
shoots  of  the  same  year.  In  the  first  place,  take  off  close 
all  the  iiregular  foremost  shoots,  taking  care  to  retain  a  com- 
petent supply  of  close  side  shoots,  with  a  good  leader  to  each 
parent  branch.  Continue  these  mostly  at  full  length  all  the 
summer,  regularly  trained  in,  to  procure  a  sufficiency  to 
choose  from  in  the  general  winter  pruning,  for  new  bearers 
the  next  year. 

If  the  summer  regulation  commences  early,  while  the 
shoots  are  quite  young,  and,  as  it  were,  heibaceous,  those 
improper  to  retain  may  be  detached  with  the  finger  and 
thumb ;  but  when  of  firmer  growth,  they  must  be  removed 
with  the  knife.  If  any  very  strong  shoots  rise  in  any  part 
where  the  wood  is  deficient,  they  may  be  topped  in  June, 
which  will  cause  them  to  produce  several  laterals  the  same 
year,  eligible  for  training  in,  to  supply  the  vacancy. 

Sometimes  the  fruit  is  much  too  numerous,  if  not  destroyed 
by  insects,  often  growing  in  clusters ;  in  which  case  thin 
them  while  in  a  young,  green  state,  leaving  the  most  pro- 
minent fiult  singly,  at  three  or  four  inches  distance,  or  from 
about  two  to  six  on  the  respective  shoots,  according  to  their 
strength.  The  Apricots  so  thinned  off,  and  the  first  princi- 
pal green  fruit,  are  very  fine  for  tarts. 


DESCRIPTIVE    LIST    OF    APRICOTS,  49 


SELECT  DESCRIPTIVE  LIST  OF  APRICOTS. 

Breda,  Ahricnt  de  Bollnnde,  Amnnde  Aveline,  Rnyal  Persian.  Fruit 
medium  size,  of  a  round  form,  and  deep  yellow  colour;  the  pulp  is  soft 
and  juicy ;  the  tree  is  a  great  bearer,  and  the  fruit,  which  ripens  early  in 
August,  is  in  great  esteem. 

Brusseis.  Highly  esteemed  for  its  productiveness ;  fruit  medium  size, 
inclining  to  an  oval  form;  of  a  yellow  colour,  and  next  the  sun  covered 
with  numerous  dark  spois;  the  flesh  is  of  a  greenish  yellow  colour,  of  a 
brisk  flavour,  and  not  liable  to  become  mealy  :  ripens  in  August. 

Blotched  Leavkd  Roman,  Blotch  Leaved  Turkey.  Variegated.  Turkey, 
Abricof  Mucde  nf  the  French-  Fruit  middle  size,  in  form  slightly  com- 
pressed, inclining  to  oval ;  skin  dull  straw  colour,  with  orange  or  red  spots  ; 
flesh  pale  straw  colour,  soft,  dry,  rather  mealy  ;  kernel  rather  bitter.  A  very 
hardy  and  productive  variety  ;  ripe  towards  the  end  of  July. 

Early  Orange,  Royal  George,  Royal  Orange.  The  fruit  of  a  medium 
size  ;  of  a  deep  yellow  colour,  spotted  with  red  or  dark  purple  next  the 
sun  ;  fleeh  deep  orange,  succulent,  and  well  flavoured  ;  not  perfectly  a  free 
stone  :  ripens  early  in  August. 

Hkmskirke.  Fruit  middle  sized,  roundish,  slightly  compressed ;  of  a 
bright  yellow  colour;  flesh  tender,  juicy,  with  a  particularly  rich,  delicate 
flavour,  resembling  that  of  the  Green  Gage  Plum  :  ripe  in  July 

Large  Early  Apmcor,  Abricit  Gros  Precoce,  Abricnt  de  St-  Jean, 
Abricot  de  St.  Jran  rouge,  Abricof  gros  d^Alexaridrie.  Fruit  somerwhat 
oblong  ;  skin  downy,  orange,  spotted  with  red  ;  flesh  oranse,  juicy,  and 
rich,  parting  from  the  stone.  This  is  the  earliest  of  all  apricots ;  in  France 
it  has  ripened  by  midsummer  day,  whence  its  name  of  ^.  de  St.  Jean. 

Moorparic,  Anson\s,  Temple's,  Dunmore's  Breda.  The  tree  is  of  vigo- 
rous growth,  and  extraordinarily  productive  ;  the  fruit  is  very  large;  of  a 
bright  gold  colour,  or  orange,  with  dark  spots  next  the  sun  ;  flesh  orange 
colour,  meltinc:.  and  excellent :  ripens  in  August. 

MuscH,  Musch.  A  fine  new  variety  from  Persia;  in  shape  round  ;  of  a 
deep  yellow  colour,  and  remarkable  for  the  transparency  of  its  pulp,  through 
which  the  stone  is  visible;  the  flesh  is  very  fine  and  agreeable:  ripens  in 
July. 

Peach  Apricot.  Abricof  Peche,  AWcot  de  Nancy,  Imperial  An.ions. 
This  is  a  first-rate  fruit ;  form  variable,  generally  flattened  ;  skin  slightly 
downy  ;  fawn  colour  next  the  sun,  tinged  with  reddish  spots  or  points; 
pulp  yellow,  melting,  juice  abundant,  high  flavoured,  and  excellent :  ripena 
early  in  August. 

Purple.  Alexari'lrian  Abricnt,  Abrj.cnt  Angmimois,  Abricof  Violet,  Black 
Apricot.  A  small,  globular,  downy  fruit,  a  little  oblong;  of  a  pale  red  co- 
lour, becoming  deep  red  or  purple  next  the  sun  ;  flesh  pale  red,  but  orange 
next  the  stone  ;  a  little  acid,  but  good  :  ripens  in  August. 

Red  Masculine,  A'iricnt  Precoce,  Abricot  Hatif  Musque,  Early  Mascu- 
line. This  is  an  old  and  very  early  variety;  the  fruit  of  which  is  small, 
of  a  roundish  form,  and  greenish  red  colour  ;  the  pulp  is  tender  ;  the  tree 
a  good  bearer,  and  the  fruit  esteemed  for  its  earliness  and  tart  taste;  ripena 
m  July. 

5 


50  ALMOND. 

Royal,  Abricot  Royale.  This  fruit  is  neit  in  size  to  the  Moorpark  { 
rather  oval,  compressed ;  of  dull  yellow  colour,  slightly  red ;  flesh  pale 
orange,  firm,  juicy,  sweet,  and  high  flavoured,  with  a  slight  acid :  ripens 
early  in  August. 

Turkey,  Large  Turkey.  A  superior  apricot;  fruit  of  a  medium  size; 
deep  yellow  colour,  with  red  blotches  next  the  sun ;  form  globular ;  flesh 
firm,  juicy,  rich,  and  excellent:  ripe  in  July  and  August. 

White  Apricot,  White  Masculine,  Abricot  Blanc.  Fruit,  in  size  and 
figure,  similar  to  the  Red  Masculine.  Skin  nearly  white;  flesh  white,  very 
delicate ;  juice  sweet,  with  an  agreeable  peach-like  flavour.     Ripe  in  July. 


ALMOND. 
Amandier.     Jlmygdalus. 

Although  Almonds  are  not  much  cultivated  in  this  part 
of  our  country,  they  are  entitled  to  notice.  The  species  are 
fruit  trees,  or  ornamental  trees  and  shrubs,  both  much  es- 
teemed for  the  gay  colour  and  early  appearance  of  their 
flowers ;  these  vary  in  their  colour  from  the  fine  blush  of 
the  apple  blossom  to  a  snowy  whiteness.  The  chief  obvious 
distinction  is  in  the  fruit,  which  is  flatter,  with  a  coriaceous 
covering,  instead  of  the  rich  pulp  of  the  Peach  and  Necta- 
rine, opening  spontaneously  when  the  kernel  is  ripe.  It  is 
a  native  of  Barbary,  China,  and  most  eastern  countries. 
There  are  twelve  ^orts  described  in  the  catalogue  of  the 
Linnaean  Botanic  Garden  at  Flushing;  some  of  which  are 
represented  as  new  varieties  from  France  and  Italy,  where 
they  are  cultivated  extensively  for  their  fruit. 

In  France,  they  have  above  a  dozen  species  or  varieties, 
besides  a  hybrid,  called  the  Almond  Peach.  The  common 
and  bitter  Almond  are  only  to  be  distinguished  by  the  taste 
of  the  kernels  of  their  fruit,  which  is  the  only  part  used. 
The  tender-shelled  is  in  the  greatest  esteem,  and  next,  the 
Sweet,  and  Jordan.  The  bitter  cuticle  or  skin  of  Almonds  is 
taken  off  by  immersion  in  boiling  water. 

The  sweet  Almond  and  other  varieties  are  used  as  a  des- 
Bert  in  a  green  or  imperfectly  ripe,  and  also  in  a  lipe  or 


CHERRY.  51 

dried  state.     They  are  much  used  in  cookery,  confectionary, 
perfumery,  and  medicine. 

The  Almond  is  propagated  by  seed  for  varieties,  or  for 
stocks  ;  and  by  budding  on  its  own,  or  on  Plum  stocks,  for 
continuing  varieties.  The  Almond  tree  bears  chiefly  on  the 
young  wood  of  the  previous  year,  and  in  part  upon  small 
spurs  or  minor  branches ;  it  is  therefore  pruned  like  the 
Apricot  and  Peach,  and  its  culture  in  other  respects  is  the 
same. 


CHERRY. 
Cerisier.     Prumis  cerasus. 

The  Cherry,  of  the  cultivated  varieties,  is  said  to  have 
Deen  first  introduced  into  Italy  in  the  year  73,  from  a  town  in 
Pontus,  in  Asia,  called  Cerasus,  whence  its  specific  name ; 
and  it  was  introduced  into  Britain  one  hundred  and  twenty 
years  afterward. 

The  Romans  had  eight  species  in  Pliny's  time,  red,  black, 
tender-fleshed,  hard-fleshed,  small  bitter-flavoured,  and  heart- 
shaped.  There  are  now  upward  of  two  hundred  in  cultiva- 
tion. The  French  divide  their  Cherries  into  griottes,  or 
tendei'-fleshed  ;  bigarreau,  or  heart-shaped  ;  and  guignes,  or 
small  fruit.  The  fruit  of  many  varieties  is  somewhat  heart- 
shaped,  whence  they  are  called  ox-heart,  white-heart,  black- 
heart,  &:c. ;  why  some  sorts  are  called  dukes,  is  not  so  ob- 
vious. The  morello  cherry  is  very  different  from  the  other 
varieties,  bearing  almost  exclusively  from  the  preceding 
year's  wood,  and  the  pulp  of  the  fruit  having  the  consistence 
and  flavour  of  the  fungi  called  morel,  whence  the  name. 
The  Chinese  Cherry  is  valuable  on  account  of  its  bearing  an 
excellent  fruit,  and  ripening  it  in  forcing-houses. 

Cherries  are  grafted  or  budded  on  seedlings  from  Cherry 
stones,  and  from  seedlings  of  the  red  and  black  mazzard. 
For  dwarfing  they  are  worked  on  the  morello,  or  perfumed 


52  CHERRY. 

Cherry ;  the  latter  is  preferre'd  in  Holland.  In  this  country, 
the  budding  system  is  more  frequently  practised  on  the  va- 
rious species  of  stone  fruit  than  grafting. 

Cherry  trees,  in  general,  produce  the  fruit  upon  small 
spurs  or  studs,  from  half  an  inch  to  two  inches  in  length, 
which  proceed  from  the  sides  and  ends  of  the  two  year, 
three  year,  and  older  branches ;  and  as  new  spurs  continue 
shooting  from  the  extieme  parts,  it  is  a  maxim  in  pruning 
both  standards  and  espalieis,  not  to  shorten  the  bearing 
branches  when  there  is  room  for  their  regular  extension. 

The  Morello  is  in  some  degree  an  exception,  as  it  bears 
principally  on  the  shoots  of  the  preceding  year,  the  fruit 
proceeding  immediately  from  the  eyes  of  shoots;  and  bears 
but  casually,  and  in  a  small  degree,  on  close  spurs  formed 
on  the  two-year-old  wood,  and  scarcely  ever  on  wood  of  the 
third  year ;  therefore,  in  pruning,  leave  a  supply  of  young 
shoots  on  all  the  branches  from  the  origin  to  the  extremity 
of  the  tree,  for  next  year's  bearers. 

All  kinds  of  Cherry  trees,  except  the  Morello,  are  apt  to 
grow  very  tall ;  to  remedy  this,  and  to  enable  them  to  form 
handsome  heads,  the  leading  shoot  should  be  cut  off  when 
of  about  three  years'  growth  from  the  bud  ;  after  which  give 
only  occasional  pruning,  to  reform  or  remove  any  casual 
irregularity  from  cross-placed  or  very  crowded  branches, 
and  take  away  all  cankery  and  decayed  wood. 

Dwarf  Cherry  trees  may  be  introduced  into  the  Kitchen 
Garden,  and  trained  as  espaliers,  &c.  When  Morellos  are 
planted  in  an  orchard,  they  may  be  placed  from  fifteen  to 
twenty  feet  apart ;  trees  of  the  duke  kind  may  be  planted 
from  twenty-five  to  thirty  feet  apart ;  and  the  heart-shaped, 
in  general,  will  require  to  be  from  thirty  to  forty  feet  from 
each  other,  or  from  any  spreading  trees. 

Cherry  trees  may  be  removed  the  first  year  after  the  bud 
is  established ;  but  they  will  bear  removal  at  any  time  before 
they  come  into  bearing,  which  is  about  the  fifth  year. 

The  gum  which  exudes  from  Cherry  trees  is  equal  to 


DESCRIPTIVE    LIST    OF    CHERRIES.  53 

Gum  Arabic  ;  and  Hasselquist  relates,  "  that  more  than  one 
hundred  men,  during  a  siege,  were  kept  alive  for  nearly  two 
months,  without  any  other  sustenance  than  a  little  of  this 
gum  taken  sometimes  into  the  mouth,  and  suffered  gradually 
to  dissolve."  The  wood  is  hard  and  tough,  and  used  by  the 
turner  and  cabinet  maker. 


SELECT  DESCRIPTIVE  LIST  OF  CHERRIES. 

DUKE    AND    ROUND    FRUIT. 

Ambhee  de  Choisy,  Belle  de  Chnisy  of  Downing.  Cerise  Dmtcette,  Cerise 
de  la  Palembre  of  the  French  gardens.  A  middle  size  roundish  fruit,  high- 
ly deserving  of  cultivation.  Skin  transparent,  red,  mottled  with  amber; 
flesh  amber  coloured,  tender,  and  sweet.  It  bears  well  as  a  standard,  and 
ripens  its  fruit  in  June. 

Abchduee.  Royal  Duke,  Griotfe  de  Portugal,  Portugal  Duke.  A  large 
globular-formed  red  cherry  ;  like  the  May  Duke,  it  grows  in  clusters,  but 
the  tree  grows  more  vigorously  than  that  variety  ;  and  yields  an  abundance 
of  fruit,  which  hangs  a  long  time  on  the  tree  improving  in  flavour,  in  July. 

Belle  et  Maonifique.  A  fine  round  cherry,  much  esteemed  in  Mas- 
sachusetts. The  tree  is  vigorous  and  productive  ;  the  fruit  truly  magnifi- 
cent ;  its  colour  red,  mottled  with  white  spots,  and  abounding  in  acid ;  valu- 
able from  its  late  maturity,  in  July. 

Carnation,  Cerise  Nuitvelle  d'Angleterre,  and  Cerise  de  Portugal,  of 
Downing.  Late  Spanish,  Griotte  d'Espagne,  and  Griotte  de  Villenes,  of 
Prince.  Fruit  round,  of  a  pale  red  colour ;  flesh  firm,  with  a  very  good 
flavoured  juice ;  makes  excellent  preserves,  and  is  good  for  the  table  in 
July. 

Downer's  Late  Red,  Doivner's  Favourite.  A  large  round  cherry,  de- 
serving a  place  in  every  garden,  raised  by  S.  Downer,  Esq.,  of  Dorchester, 
Massachusetts ;  colour  light  red  ;  flesh  firm  and  of  a  fine  sprightly  flavour  ; 
ripening  after  most  other  superior  varieties  are  gone,  on  which  account  this 
variety  is  highly  prized  in  the  markets. 

Kentish,  Early  Kentish,  Early  Richmond,  Virginian  May,  Long  Stem 
Montmorency,  Montmorency  a  tongue  queue-  Mr.  Prince  says  that  other 
varieties  are  sold  erroneously  under  the  above  names.  The  fruit  of  this 
variety  is  round  ;  skin  red  ;  flesh  sprightly  acid ;  juice  abundant ;  excellent 
for  the  table  and  kitchen.  It  will  hang  long  on  the  tree,  in  favourable  wea- 
ther, in  June  and  July. 

Late  Duke,  Cerise  Anglaise  tardive,  Unique  nouvelle.  Fruit  large, 
above  the  size  of  a  May  Duke  ;  obtuse  heart  shaped,  rather  flat ;  skin  a 
shining  dark  red ;  flesh  amber  coloured,  tender,  juicy,  and  high  flavoured- 
Tree  a  great  bearer,  and  ripens  its  fruit  in  July. 

Mat  Duke,  Early  Duke,  and  Cerise  d'Angleterre,  of  Downing.    Eol- 


54  DESCRIPTIVE    LIST    OF    CHERRIES. 

marl's  Tiukc.  June  Duke,  Griotte  de  Portugal,  and  Royale  hative,  of  Prince. 
Fruit  of  medium  size,  roundish,  5rowing  in  clusters;  the  skin,  when  fully 
ripe,  very  dark  red  ;  the  flesh  is  soCt  and  juicy,  with  a  very  pleasant  acid 
This  excellent  variety  ripens  about  the  middle  of  June. 

MoREi.LO,  English  Murello,  Milan,  Cerise  du  nord,  Griotte  du  nord 
Fruit  of  medium  size,  round  ;  of  a  dark  red  colour,  nearly  black  at  matU' 
rity ;  flesh  deep  red.  tender,  juicy,  and  blended  with  an  agreeable  acid;  ripe 
in  July,  and  hangs  some  time  on  the  tree.  This  variety  is  excellent  for 
preserves,  and  for  Brandy. 

Plujistone  Mokello.  a  tree  of  moderate  size,  of  the  Duke  or  Kent- 
ish species  ;  a  very  large,  dark,  round  cherry,  nearly  black  ;  of  a  rich  acid 
flavour.  The  stone  is  very  large,  and  resembles  that  of  a  plum;  a  native 
of  Virginia,  introduced  by  William  Prince,  of  the  Linnasn  Botanic  Garden, 
Flushing. 

Waterloo.  A  large,  roundish,  dark  cherry,  inclining  to  black  at  matu- 
rity ;  the  flesh  is  firm  and  of  an  excellent  flavour;  raised  by  a  daughter  of 
Mr.  Knight,  and  so  named  from  perfecting  its  fruit  soon  after  the  battle  of 
Waterloo.  The  tree  is  of  strong  but  irregular  growth,  and  ripens  its  fruit 
in  July. 

HEART-SHAPED   AND    BIGARREAUS. 

American  Amber,  Early  Amber,  New  Honey.  A  beautiful  heart-shaped 
cherry,  of  medium  size,  and  dark  pink  or  amber  colour;  flesh,  rich,  sweet, 
and  excellent.     It  ripens  early  in  June. 

American  Heart,  Arden's  White  Heart.  A  medium  sized  cherry,  of 
pale  yellowish  colour;  obtuse  heart  shaped;  flesh  tender  and  palatable, 
but  not  high  flavoured.  The  tree,  which  ripens  its  fruit  in  June,  is  very 
productive. 

Belle  de  Rocmont,  Bigarrcaii  de  Rocmonf,  Cosier  de  pigeon,  Bigar- 
reau  commun.  A  beautiful  heart  shaped  fruit,  of  pale  yellowish  and  red 
colour,  marbled  and  glossy  :  flesh  firm,  white  ;  juice  sprightly  and  of  an 
agreeable  flavour  :  in  June  and  July. 

BiGARREAu,  Black.  Manning's  Black  Bigarreau.  This  variety  is  con- 
sidered highly  deserving  a  place  in  every  good  collection  ;  it  originated  in 
Mr.  Manning's  nursery  at  Salem;  the  fruit  is  large,  colour  black;  flesh 
sweet  and  of  peculiar  rich  flavour.  The  tree  grows  handsome,  is  very 
productive,  and  ripens  its  fruit  in  July. 

BiGARREAu,  Graffion,  Turkey  Bigarreau,  Yellow  Spanish,  White  Bi- 
garreau,  Imperial,  Guigne  Ambree,  White  Orleans.  Very  large,  obtuse, 
heart-shaped  ;  yellowish  amber  colour,  but  fine  red  next  the  sun  ;  flesh 
firm,  white,  sweet,  and  well  flavoured  ;  a  beautiful  and  excellent  fruit :  ripe 
in  June  and  July.     This  variety  commands  the  highest  price  in  market. 

BiGARREAu  W^HiTE,  White  Ox  Heart,  and  Harrison's  Heart,  of  Down- 
ing. White  Bigarreau  Tradescant,  and  Bigarreau  blanc  le  gros,  of  Prince. 
Fruit  large  ;  obtuse  heart  shaped  ;  of  pale  yellow  and  white  colour,  mot- 
tled with  red  ;  flesh  white,  firm,  and  well  flavoured  :  ripe  in  June  and  July. 

Black  Eagle.  A  beautiful  variety,  raised  by  Miss  Knight,  of  Downton 
Castle,  1S06  :  fruit  of  globular  form,  and  middle  size;  skin  dark  purple,  or 
nearly  black  ;  flesh  very  tender,  rich,  and  of  excellent  flavour.  The  tree 
grows  strong,  very  upright,  and  ripens  its  fruit  early. 


DESCRIPTIVE    LIST    OF    CHERRIES.  55 

Black  Hkart,  Guignier  a  Fruit  noir.  Fruit  rather  large,  heart-shaped ; 
dark  purple,  approaching  to  black  at  maturity  ;  flesh  dark  red,  tender,  of 
excellent  flavour :  ripe  early  in  July.     Tree  a  good  bearer. 

Black  Tartarian,  Black  Circassian,  Frastrs  Black  Tartarian,  Black 
Russian,  Ronald's  Lar^e  Black  Heart,  Fraser's  Black  Heart-  A  very  large 
heart-shaped  fruit,  of  a  most  superior  quality;  colour  dark  shining  purple, 
or  black ;  flesh  firm,  dark  red  or  purple  ;  sweet,  and  of  most  excellent  fla- 
vour :  in  June  and  July.     The  tree  grows  rapid,  and  is  very  productive. 

Davenport's  Early  Black,  New  May  Duke.  This  variety  is  consid- 
ered as  one  of  the  finest  and  most  productive  of  early  cherries  known.  The 
fruit  is  of  medium  size,  heart-shaped,  of  a  dark  glossy  black  colour  ;  flesh 
firm,  and  of  a  pleasant  sub-acid  flavour.  It  ripens  a  week  or  ten  days  earlier 
than  the  May  Duke. 

Elkhorn.  Black  Oxheart,  Tradescanfs  Black,  Bigarrrau  gros  noirt 
Large  Black  Bignrreau.  A  large,  black,  heart-shaped  cherry,  well  suited 
to  bear  carriage  to  market  from  the  firmness  of  its  flesh.  This  variety 
ripens  the  second  and  third  week  in  July,  when  other  kinds  are  scarce. — 
{Prince-) 

Elton.  This  excellent  variety  was  raised  by  Mr.  Knight  in  1806  ;  the 
tree  is  very  vigorous  and  productive  ;  the  fruit  is  pretty  large,  heart-shaped; 
pale  glossy  yellow  in  the  shade,  but  marbled  with  bright  red  next  the  sun ; 
flesh  firm,  sweet,  and  rich:  ripens  soon  after  the  May  Duke. 

Florente.  a  very  fine  heart-shaped  cherry  ;  of  a  yellow  amber  colour, 
marbled  with  bright  red  in  the  shade,  bright  red  next  the  sun  ;  flesh  toler- 
ably firm,  juicy,  r.ch.  and  sweet:  ripe  end  of  June  and  in  July. 

GiRiii.EV,  Apple  Cherry-  A  native  fruit  of  medium  size,  which  originated 
on  the  f  inn  of  Mr.  Girdley,  of  Roxbury,  near  Boston  ;  the  colour  is  black, 
the  flesh  firm,  and  of  a  fine  flavour:  in  July.  The  tree  grows  vigorous, 
and  is  very  prnductive. 

Knight's  Karlv  Black.  The  blossoms  of  this  variety  appear  very 
early;  its  fruit  resembles  the  Waterloo ;  of  a  rich  dark  hue;  its  flesh  is 
firm,  ju'cy.  and  abundantly  sweet:  by  the  mirldle  of  June. 

Mazzard,  Bi.ack-  This  cherry  grows  wild,  and  is  cultivated  also  in 
abundance  in  various  parts  of  England.  It  is  the  principal  fruit  employed 
for  the  making  of  Cherry  Brandy,  and  the  stocks  of  the  species  are  best 
adapted  for  nursery  men  to  bud  and  graft  the  better  kinds  on. 

Napoleon  Bigarreau,  Bigarreau  Napoleon,  Lanerniann,  Gro.t  Bigar- 
reau  de  Luuermann-  The  tree  of  this  variety  is  remarkable  for  the  vigour 
and  beauty  of  its  growth  ;  it  produces  a  fine  large  while  fruit  with  red 
spots ;  the  tie-;!)  is  remarkably  white,  solid,  and  of  a  sweet,  agreeable  fla- 
vour:  early  in  July. 

White  Bigarreau.  Mr.  Manning  represents  this  as  one  of  the  largest 
and  finest  cherries  known.  The  form  is  obtuse,  heart-shaped ;  skin  pale 
yellow,  with  a  bright  red  cheek  ;  flesh  very  firm,  juicy,  sweet,  and  fine  fla- 
voured :  ripe  in  July.  Mr.  Manning  observes,  that  this  variety  has  the  re- 
putation of  l)eing  a  shy  bearer,  but  that  in  his  orchard  it  yields  an  abun- 
dance of  fru  t;  and,  that  owing  to  the  hardness  of  its  flesh,  is  not  liable  to 
injury  from  birds  ;  on  this  account,  he  says,  it  is  highly  deserving  of  cul- 
tivation. 

White  Heart,  Remington  White  Heart,  Late  White  H'-art.     A  mode 
rate  sized  cherry,  of  pleasant  flavour;  chiefly  valuable  for  its  very  late  ma* 


So  CHESTNUT. 

turity,  being  towards  the  end  of  August.     It  ia  said  to  have  originated  in 
Rhode  Island. 

White  Tartarian,  White  Transparent  Crimea,  Fraser^s  White,  Guigne 
de  Rusiie  blanc-  A  beautiful  cherry,  pale  yellow,  approaching  to  amber 
next  the  sun  ;  a  much  admired  fruit,  of  excellent  flavour :  a  good  bearer, 
ripening  early  in  July. 


CHESTNUT. 
Chataigner.     Castanea, 

The  Chestnut  is  well  known  as  a  large  tree,  spreading  its 
branches  finely  where  it  has  room,  but  planted  closely,  will 
shoot  up  straight  to  a  great  height.  It  is  supposed  to  have 
been  originally  from  Sardis.  It  is  so  common  as  to  be  con- 
sidered a  native  of  France  and  Italy,  and  some  consider  it 
as  naturalized  in  England ;  it  is  also  indigenous  in  America. 
The  London  catalogues  contain  the  names  of  thirty-two 
sorts  under  cultivation.  The  Chestnut  is,  like  the  Walnut, 
both  a  timber  and  fruit  tree ;  some  of  the  oldest  trees  in  the 
world  are  of  this  species.*  The  American  Chestnut  differs 
so  little  from  the  European,  that  no  specific  distinction  can 
be  drawn.  It  is  one  of  the  largest  trees  of  the  forest,  the 
wood  being  extremely  durable,  and  in  high  esteem  for  posts 
and  rails  to  construct  fences  ;  and  the  nuts  are  very  delicious. 
The  Caslanea  pumila,  or  Chinquapin  nut,  is  a  small  tree,  or 
rather  shrub,  growing  to  the  height  of  thirty  feet  in  the 
Southern  States,  but  seldom  exceeding  ten  in  cold  latitudes ; 
the  fruit  is  very  sweet  and  agreeable  to  eat. 

There  is  a  variety  with  striped  leaves,  which  is  very  orna- 
mental. The  most  esteemed  of  the  French  kinds  are  called 
Marron.     Some  excellent  fruit-bearins:  varieties   are   culti- 


•  At  Fortworth,  in  Gloucestershire,  England,  is  a  large  tree,  fifty-two 
feet  round,  which  in  1  150  was  called  the  "  Great  Chestnut  of  Fortworth." 
Marsham  states  that  this  tree  is  1 100  years  old,  and  that  the  timber  is  al- 
most incorruptible,  and  more  durable  than  oak.  Its  durability  ia  commen- 
surate with  the  long  life  of  the  tree. 


CRANBERRY.  5ft 

vated  in  England,  France,  Italy,  and  Spain,  as  also  in  other 
parts  of  Europe  ;  these  are  increased  by  giainnsr  or  budding 
in  the  usual  methods,  but  the  plants  foi-  coppice  wood,  or 
timber,  are  best  raised  from  nuts.  Some  varieties  ripen  their 
fruit  a  few  days  earlier  than  others,  but  none  of  these  have 
been  fixed  on,  or  perpetuated  by  nurserymen,  so  as  to  ren- 
der them  available  to  purchasers.  The  fruit  is  a  desirable 
nut  for  autumn  or  winter,  and  is  eaten  roasted,  with  salt,  and 
sometimes  raw;  and  in  some  countiies  it  is  not  only  boiled 
and  roasted,  but  ground  into  meal,  and  puddings,  cakes,  and 
bread  are  made  from  it. 


CRANBERRY. 

Canneberge.     Oxycociis. 

This  genus  of  plants  is  well  distinguished  from  the  Vac- 
cinium,  or  Whortleberry,  by  the  narrow  revolute  segmenta 
of  corolla ;  and  are  pretty  little  trailing  evergreen  plants,  to 
which  a  peat  soil,  and  rather  moist  situations,  are  absolutely 
necessary.     They  are  very  little  changed  by  culture. 

The  Oxycocus  macrocarpus  is  a  red  acid  fruit,  highly  val- 
ned  as  a  sweetmeat,  or  for  tarts.  It  is  well  known  that  this 
excellent  fruit  grows  in  many  parts  of  our  country  sponta- 
neously ;  and  that  the  mere  gathering  of  it,  is  all  that  boun- 
tiful nature  requires  at  our  hands  ;  but  it  is  well  worth  cul- 
tivating where  there  are  none.  This  fruit  will  keep  a  whole 
year,  if  properly  preserved  in  close  covered  stone  jars,  and 
IS  considered  by  many  as  superior  to  the  best  currant  jelly, 
and  may  be  kept  for  many  months  in  a  raw  state  without 
injury. 

The  Oxijcocns  palustyis  bears  edible  berries,  which  are 
gathered  wild  both  in  England  and  Scotland,  and  made  into 
larts.  Lightfoot  says,  that  twenty  or  thirty  pounds'  worth 
are  sold  each  market  day,  for  five  or  six  weeks  together,  in 
the  town  of  Langtown,  on  the  borders  of  Cumberland. 


58  CURRANT. 

Nicol  says,  the  American  species  are  more  easily  culti- 
vated than  the  English,  but  is  inferior  to  it  in  flavour.  There 
is  reason  to  believe  that  the  quality  of  fruit  of  each  of  these 
species  is  subject  to  variations,  which  have  not  yet  been  prac- 
tically distinguished.  Their  cultivation  is  now^  so  well  un- 
derstood, that  both  may  be  considered  with  propriety  as  in- 
mates of  the  fruit  garden.  Some  raise  them  from  seed  sown 
early  in  the  spring;  but  it  is  best  to  set  out  plants,  and  lay 
the  runners  as  they  progress  in  growth. 

It  is  customary  in  England  to  prepare  beds  on  the  edges 
of  ponds,  which  are  banked  up  so  as  to  admit  of  the  wet 
getting  underneath  them ;  bog  or  peat  earth  is  considered 
essential  for  the  roots  to  run  in,  but  it  has  been  discovered 
that  they  can  be  cultivated  in  damp  situations  in  a  garden, 
with  a  top  dressing  of  peat  or  bog  earth,  and  if  they  are 
once  suited  as  to  the  soil,  the  plants  will  multiply  so  as  to 
cover  the  bed  in  the  course  of  a  year  or  two,  by  means  of 
their  long  runners,  which  take  root  at  different  points. 
From  a  very  small  space  a  very  large  quantity  of  Cranberries 
may  be  gathered  ;  and  they  prove  a  remarkably  regular 
crop,  scarcely  affected  by  the  state  of  the  weather,  and  not 
subject  to  the  attacks  of  insects.  Sir  Joseph  Banks  gives 
an  account  (in  Hort.  Trans.,  1.  71)  of  his  success  in  culti- 
vating this  fruit.  "  In  one  year,  viz.,  1813,  from  326  square 
feet,  or  a  bed  about  eighteen  feet  square,  three  and  a  half 
"Winchester  bushels  of  berries  were  produced,  which,  at  five 
bottles  to  the  gallon,  gives  one  hundred  and  forty  bottles, 
each  sufficient  for  one  Cranberry  pie,  from  two  and  a  half 
square  feet." 


CURRANT. 

Groseiller  a  grappes.     Ribes. 

This  is  a  genus  of  well-known  shrubs,  much  cultivated 
for  their  fruit.     It  is  a  native  of  the  Northern  parts  of 


CURRANT.  59 

Europe,  and  found  in  hedges  and  woods  in  England ;  and 
there  are  some  species  indigenous  in  America.  The  fruit, 
being  of  an  agreeable  sub-acid  taste,  is  generally  relished 
both  as  a  dessert  and  in  pies  and  tarts ;  it  is  also  much  used 
in  making  wine,  and  is  grown  to  a  considerable  extent  for 
that  purpose  in  Essex,  Kent,  and  about  Pershore,  in  Wor- 
(  estershire,  England.  There  are  ten  species  cultivated  in  the 
garden  of  the  Horticultural  Society  of  London,  comprising 
twelve  varieties  of  red,  ten  of  white,  five  kinds  of  black, 
together  with  a  champagne,  mountain,  rock,  upright,  Penn- 
sylvanian,  &;c.  Any  number  of  varieties  of  the  red  and 
white  may  be  procured  from  sowing  the  seed,  but  they  are 
generally  propagated  by  cuttings  of  the  last  year's  wood, 
which  should  be  of  sufficient  length  to  form  handsome 
plants,  with  a  clear  stem  ten  inches  high ;  these  may  be 
planted  immediately  upon  losing  their  leaves  in  autumn,  or 
very  early  the  ensuing  spring. 

The  Currant  will  grow  in  almost  every  soil,  but  prospers 
best  in  one  loamy  and  rich.  The  best  flavoured  fruit  is 
produced  from  plants  in  an  open  situation,  but  they  will 
grow  under  the  shades  of  walls  or  trees,  and  either  as  low 
bushes,  or  trained  as  espaliers.  They  bear  chiefly  on  spurs, 
and  on  young  wood  of  from  one  to  three  years'  growth,  and, 
therefore,  in  pruning,  most  of  the  young  wood  should  be  cut 
to  within  two  or  three  buds  of  that  where  it  originated. 
After  the  plants  are  furnished  with  full  heads,  they  produce 
many  superfluous  and  irregular  shoots  every  summer, 
crowding  the  general  bearers,  so  as  to  require  regulating 
and  curtailing,  both  in  the  young  growth  of  the  year,  and  in 
older  wood. 

The  principal  part  of  the  work  may  be  done  in  winter,  or 
early  in  spring ;  but  a  preparatory  part  should  be  performed 
in  summer,  to  eradicate  suckers,  and  thin  the  superfluous 
shoots  of  the  year,  where  they  are  so  crowded  as  to  exclude 
the  sun  and  air  from  the  fruit.  In  training  espaliers  and  for 
standards,  two  branches  are  laid  in  a  horizontal  direction 


60  DESCRIPTIVE    LIST    OF    CURRANTS. 

along  the  bottom  of  the  trellis,  perhaps  half  a  foot  from  the 
surface  of  the  earth,  and  the  growth  from  these,  or  of  all  up- 
right shoots,  which  will  admit  of  being  arranged  at  the  distance 
of  five  or  six  inches  from  each  other,  is  encouraged.  Fan 
standards  are  sometimes  trained  with  the  branches  radiating 
from  the  crown  of  the  stem. 

The  black  Currant,  or  Ribes  nigrum,  is  common  in  moist 
woods  in  Russia  and  Siberia ;  its  culture  is  similar  to  that 
of  the  red,  but  as  it  is  less  apt  to  bear  in  spurs  than  on 
young  wood,  the  shoots  should  not  be  so  much  shortened  in 
this  as  in  the  other. 

Currant  bushes  will  require  to  be  planted  at  different  dis- 
tances, according  to  the  situation  and  mode  of  training,  &c. 
When  planted  in  beds,  borders,  or  squares,  they  should  be 
six  feet  apart,  but  if  trained  as  espaliers,  they  will  require 
to  be  eight  feet  apart. 

Many  people  dislike  the  flavour  of  black  Currants ;  they 
are,  therefore,  not  much  used  in  the  kitchen  or  dessert,  and 
seldom  in  wine  making.  They  make  a  jelley  or  jam,  in 
estimation  as  a  gargle  for  inflammatory  sore  throats.  "  In 
Russia  and  Siberia,  wine  is  made  of  the  berries  alone,  or 
fermented  with  honey,  and  with  or  or  without  spirits.  In 
Siberia  they  make  a  drink  of  the  leaves ;  these  tincture 
common  spirits  so  as  to  resemble  brandy,  and  a  few  of  them 
dried  and  mixed  with  black  tea,  answer  all  the  purposes  of 
the  green  material." — [Loudon.) 

All  kinds  of  Currants  may  be  forced  by  placing  them  in 
any  forcing  department  in  January  or  February  ;  they  will 
produce  ripe  fruit  in  April  and  May. 


SELECT  DESCRIPTIVE  LIST  OF  CURRANTS. 

Black  English,  Common  Black.  This  species  is  most  generally  culti- 
vated in  private  gardens  for  medicinal  purposes  ;  the  berries  are  plentiful, 
of  large  size,  and  frequently  hang  on  the  bush  two  months,  improving  in 
flavour. 


PIG.  61 

Black  Naples.  In  this  variety  the  fruit  is  larger,  the  clusters  more  nu- 
merous, and  each  cluster  produces  more  berries  than  the  ordinary  kinds,  on 
which  account  it  is  highly  esteemed. 

Champagne.  The  berries  of  this  variety  are  of  a  pale  red  colour,  which 
being  transparent,  causes  it  to  be  generally  estimated  as  a  dessert  fruit.  It 
is  a  prolific  bearer. 

Large  Red.  Red  Dutch.  This  is  the  most  desirable  kind  of  the  red 
fruited  currant  caltivated  ;  the  bush,  when  properly  trained  and  pruned, 
grows  strong  and  upright,  and  produces  an  abundance  of  fine  large  berries. 

White  Crystal.  White  Grope.  An  excellent  variety,  the  berries  of 
which  are  large,  and  of  a  beautiful  clear  transparent  brilliancy ;  hence  its 
name. 

White  Dutch.  Th'.s  variety  is  held  in  great  esteem  for  differo"*  pur- 
poses ;  the  clusters  and  berries  are  large,  of  a  yellowieh  -  '"'■^  t^""u^^", 
*^  ™.     .      .  ^  ^A,^^i\Mf  that  the  branches  of 

delicious  flavour.     The  bushes  are  often  so  productive 

the  bearing  wood  trail  beneath  the  weight  of  .;-^^;/.;;^^  ^^^^  ^^^  ^^^.^^^^ 
Missouri  Currant.     Th's^  s^- ^^^^^^^  ^^  ^^^^^^^  agreeable  flavour,  they 
kinds  ;  ^'ts  bernes^ajrgj-^jjfj  ^j^^^g  ^^^^^  general  cultivation, 
"'i  o^these  may  be  added  Knight's  Sweet  Red,  Wilmofs  Large  Red,  Went' 
worth  Red,  Victoria,  and  Greeti  Fruited,  lately  introduced. 

The  above  are  the  most  celebrated  species  of  Currants. 
Some  nurserymen's  catalogues  contain  many  other  names,  a 
great  proportion  of  which  are,  probably,  a  repetition  of  the 
same  fruit.  Where  the  Currant  is  cultivated  for  the  purpose 
of  making  wine,  the  White  and  Red  Dutch  are  to  be  pre- 
ferred to  all  others.  For  the  dessert,  the  White  Crystal  and 
Champagne  are  great  favourites,  on  account  of  their  trans- 
parent clearness. 


FIG. 

FiGuiER.     Ficus  carica. 

There  are  ma,ny  species  of  the  Fig,  which  are  all  natives 
of  warm  climates.  In  some  parts  of  Asia,  and  in  the  South 
of  Europe,  they  are  always  grown  as  standards ;  and  the 
fruit,  green  and  dried,  forms  an  important  part  of  the  food 
of  the  inhabitants.  The  London  Horticultural  catalogue 
contains  the  names  of  seventy-five  sorts ;  and  Messrs.  Prince, 
of  Flushing,  have  about  forty  names  in  their  catalogue.     It 


62  PIG. 

is  cultivated  in  England  as  a  fruit  tree,  and,  in  warm  situa- 
tions, will  ripen  its  fruit  in  the  open  air.  In  Sussex,  on  the 
sea-coast,  it  ripens  its  fruit  on  standards.  Some  of  the  best 
in  England  are  at  Arundel  Castle ;  and  there  is  a  Fig  or- 
chard of  one  hundred  trees  at  Tarring,  near  Worthing. 
Those  at  Arundel  are  planted  six  or  eight  feet  apart,  and 
from  a  single  stem  allowed  to  continue  branching  conical 
heads,  pruning  chiefly  irregular  and  redundant  growths,  and 
«'itting  out  decayed  or  injured  wood. 

i^iy  vvoo  njay  be  propagated    from    seed,  cuttings, 
layers,  suckers,  i,>^t^   „„i  n  „         /••  ,  „ 

■^       '  ,'       .    ,^na  by  grafting;  the  most  generally 

approved  method  is  by  layeio  ■  i  •  ,  . 

,'^.        ,  -,         -,  •'  """^tings,  which  come  into 

bearing:  the  second,  and  sometimes  the  i..^  -.,. 

°      ,  .-a  ^        '•"""'      No  '^ree 

18  more  robust  or  more  proline;  even  plants  m  pots  or  „„._ 

kept  in  a  temperature  adapted  for  the  Orange  tree,  will  fruit 
freely,  and  ripen  two  crops  a  year,  and  by  being  taken  care 
of  through  the  winter,  will  go  on  growing  and  ripening  fruit 
without  intermission.  Mr.  Knight  has  obtained  from  his 
hot-house  in  England,  eight  successive  crops  in  a  year,  by 
bending  the  limbs  in  a  position  below  the  horizontal.  The 
trees  will  produce  tolerable  crops  in  the  second  year  if  rung 
or  decorticated ;  and  by  this  process  matun'ty  of  the  fruit  is 
accelerated,  and  its  size  inci eased.*  Its  maturity  is  also  has- 
tened by  pricking  the  fruit  with  a  straw  or  quill  dipped  in 
olive  oil,  or  even  by  slightly  touching  the  fruit  with  oil,  at 
the  finger's  end.  In  Fig  countries  the  fruit  is  preserved  by 
dipping  it  in  scalding  lye,  made  of  the  ashes  of  the  Fig  tree, 
and  then  dried  in  the  sun. 


•  Girdling,  decortication,  ringing,  or  circumcision,  as  it  is  sometimes  va- 
riously called,  consists  in  making  two  circular  incisions  quite  round  the 
limb,  through  the  bark,  at  the  distance  of  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  asun- 
der, more  or  less,  accordins;  to  tlie  size  and  thickness  of  the  tree  ;  then  by 
making  a  perpendicular  slit,  the  ring  of  the  bark  is  wholly  removed  to  the 
wood.  Ringing  or  decortication  is  applicable  to  every  kind  of  fruit  tree, 
and  to  the  vine.  Its  operation  is  twofold.  First,  in  the  early  production 
and  abundance  of  blossom  buds  which  it  induces;  and  second,  in  increasing 
the  size  of  the  fruit  and  hastening  its  maturity,  according  to  the  season  in 
whjr.ii  the  operation  is  performed. 


DESCRIPTIVE    LIST    OF    FIGS.  63 

When  Figs  are  cultivated  in  a  garden,  a  good  loamy  soil 
should  be  provided  ;  and  they  may  be  trained  to  close  fences, 
or  trellises,  in  sheltered  situations.  At  the  approach  of  win- 
ter they  must  be  protected ;  those  trained  to  close  fences 
may  be  secured  through  the  winter  by  a  covering  of  mat- 
ting ;  and  such  as  may  be  in  open  situations  should  be  libe- 
rated from  the  trellis,  and  laid  down  close  to  the  ground, 
and  covered  three  or  four  inches  with  earth  ;  or  trendies  may 
be  formed  of  that  depth,  sufficient  to  contain  the  branches, 
which  should  be  fastened  down  with  hooked  pegs,  without 
cramping  them  :  such  of  the  strong  central  branches  as  will 
not  bend  may  be  enveloped  in  litter.  They  should  be 
pruned  before  they  are  laid  down  in  November,  and  on 
being  raised  again  in  April,  they  may  be  trained  as  before. 
Figs  may  be  cultivated  in  piivate  gardens  as  easily  as  the 
vine. 


SELECT  DESCRIPTIVE  LIST  OF  FIGS. 

Angei.ique,  Coucourelle  Blanche,  Melitte.  Fruit  rather  small,  some- 
what pyramidal;  skin  yellow,  mottled  with  white  ;  pulp  white  ;  seed  tinged 
with  red.  In  the  neighbourhood  of  Paris  this  variety  produces  two  crops 
annually ;  the  first  is  usually  thin,  but  the  second  very  abundant  and  ex- 
cellent. 

Black  Italian.  Fruit  small  and  round;  pulp  very  delicious.  Mr. 
Forsyth  used  to  cultivate  this  kind  in  pots,  and  it  is  recorded  that  he  has 
gathered  from  one  plant  two  dozen  figs  in  a  day. 

Blue  or  Purple,  Large  Blue,  Great  Blue,  Large  Purple  Fruit  large, 
oblong  ;  skin  purple,  covered  with  thick  blue  bloom  ;  pulp  deep  red,  and  of 
a  rich  flavour  :  ripe  in  August.     The  tree  is  hardy  and  prolific. 

BouRDEAux,  Figue  Poire,  Vinletfe  de  Bourdeaux.  Fruit  of  a  pyramidal 
figure ;  skin  brownish  red,  slightly  mottled  ;  pulp  red.  succulent,  and  sweet. 
This  is  cultivated  throughout  France,  and  produces  two  crops  annually. 

Brown  Turkev.  Fruit  small  and  round  ;  pulp  very  delicious.  This 
and  the  Black  Italian  are  mentioned  by  Mr.  Forsyth  as  being  cultivated  by 
him  in  pots,  and  each  possessing  equal  merit. 

Brunswicic.  Madonna,  Hanover.  Fruit  very  large,  obovate  ;  skin  pale 
green,  tinged  with  yellow  ;  flesh  pinkish,  extremely  rich,  and  high  flavoured. 
This  is  one  of  the  largest  and  best  hardy  figs  for  garden  culture,  and  it  will 
ripen  in  the  neighbourhood  of  London  by  the  middle  of  August. 

Chestnut,  Chestnut-coloured  Ishia,  Brown  Ischin.  Fruit  globular,  of 
large  size  ;  skin  of  a  brown  chestnut  colour ;  pulp  purple,  sweet,  and  higll 


64  FILBERT    AND    HAZLENUT. 

flavoured  This  kind  will  often  yield  two  crops  in  Kngland,  the  first  fruit 
of  which  ripens  in  August. 

Early  White,  Sinutl  Eurly  White.  Fruit  somewhat  round  ;  skin  thin  ; 
when  fully  ripe  of  a  pale  yellow  colour;  pulp  white,  sweet,  and  of  plea- 
sant flavour.     This  generally  ripens  two  crops  in  one  season. 

Grekn  Ischia.  Fruit  o!)long;  skin  green,  very  thin;  pulp  purple, 
which,  when  fully  ripe,  stains  the  skin  to  a  brownish  cast  This  is  a  very 
high  flavdiirerl  fig,  especially  in  warm  countries  :  ripe  in  August. 

Large  White  Gknoa.  Fruit  large,  globular ;  skin  thin,  white,  turning 
to  yellow  when  fully  ripe;  pulp  red,  and  of  good  flavour,  This  in  Eng- 
land bears  two  crops,  annually. 

Mai  ta.  Small  Brown,  of  some  gardens.  Fruit  small ;  skin  pale  brown; 
pulp  very  sweet  and  well  flavoured:  ripe  in  August,  and  if  left  hanging  on 
the  tree  until  shrivelled,  it  becomes  a  fine  sweetmeat, 

Nerii.  The  Nerii  fig  is  highly  esteemed  in  England.  Fruit  oblong,  of 
medium  size;  skin  pale  greenish  yellow;  the  flesh  is  very  rich,  and  the 
juice  possesses  a  delicate  acidity,  which  renders  it  peculiarly  palataUe:  ripe 
in  August. 

Pregussata.  Fruit  large,  oblate  ;  skin  dark  brown  ;  pulp  deep  red;  re- 
markably sweet  and  rich  :  ripe  in  August. 

Purple  Gbnoa.  Fruit  large,  long;  skin  dark  purple;  pulp  extremely 
sweet  and  luscious:  ripe  in  August. 

ViOLETTE,  Figue  Violetfe.  The  Violet  Fig,  like  the  Angelique,  is  much 
cultivated  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Paris,  and  produces  two  crops  annually. 
Fruit  small ;  skin  deep  violet ;  pulp,  near  the  skin,  white  ;  the  interior  red, 
and  of  excellent  flavour. 

WHtTE  Marseilles,  Pocock,  Figue  Blanche.  Fruit  medium  size,  some- 
what turbinate  ;  skin  pale  green,  becoming  yellowish  when  fully  ripe :  flesh 
white,  dry,  sweet,  and  rich  :  ripe  in  August. 

Yellow  Ischia,  Cyprus.  Fruit  large,  of  a  pyramidal  form  ,  skin  yel- 
low, when  fully  ripe;  pulp  purple  and  high  flavoured:  in  August  and 
September. 


FILBERT    AND    HAZLENUT. 

NoiSETIER  AVELINIER.     CovyhlS. 

The  Filbert,  in  many  varieties,  and  also  the  common  Ha- 
zlenut,  grow  spontaneously  in  the  woods  of  Britain,  and 
some  few  varieties  are  indigenous  in  this  country.  The 
kinds  of  Filberts  generally  cultivated  are  the  white,  red,  cob, 
clustered,  and  frizzled ;  of  each  of  which  there  are  many 
varieties.  As  this  shrub  is  so  easily  cultivated,  it  is  a  matter 
of  aatonishment  that  the  nuts  from  this  genus  of  pl»ants  are 
so  scarce  in  our  markets.     In  different  parts  of  England 


FILBERT    AND    HAZLENUT.  65 

there  are  Filbert  orchards.  In  the  Filbert  grounds  about 
Maidstone,  in  Kent,  it  is  a  prevailing  practice  to  cultivate 
Hops,  standard  Apples,  and  Cherries,  among  the  Filberts ; 
when  these  come  into  a  bearing  state,  the  Hops  are  taken 
up  and  transplanted  elsewhere,  and  the  fruit  trees  only  suf- 
fered to  remain.  The  spare  ground  is  then  planted  with 
Gooseberries,  Currants,  &c.  The  Red  Filbert  is  allowed  to 
have  a  finer  flavour  than  the  White.  The  Coh'nut  is  large, 
with  a  thick  shell,  but  the  kernel  is  sweet  and  of  consider- 
able size.  The  Barcelona  is  a  good  large  nut,  with  a  thin 
shell.  The  Cosford  is  very  sweet,  kernels  well,  and  the  tiee 
is  a  great  bearer.  The  Bond  JVh/,  and  the  Lambert  JWit  are 
of  large  size,  roundish  shape,  and  very  prolific  bearers.  The 
Frizzled  Filbert  is  highly  esteemed.  It  is  beautiful  when  in 
the  husk,  and  its  flavour  is  very  similar  to  that  of  the  IVhite 
Filbert ;  the  shell  of  which  is  also  thin,  and  its  kernel  sweet 
and  fine. 

All  the  different  kinds  may  be  grown  as  dwarf  standards ; 
or  they  will  bear  very  well  if  planted  in  clumps  :  but  as 
they  produce  an  abundance  of  suckers,  these  should  be 
parted  off  frequently,  and  planted  in  a  nursery  bed  for 
stocks ;  as  the  bearing  plants  will  cease  to  produce  fruit  in 
any  quantity,  if  the  suckers  are  allowed  to  form  a  thick 
bush.  They  may  be  propagated  by  seed,  by  suckers,  by 
layers,  or  by  grafting  in  the  spring  upon  seedling  or  sucker 
stocks. 

The  Filbert  bears  principally  upon  the  sides  of  the  upper 
young  branches,  and  upon  small  shoots  which  proceed  from 
the  bases  of  side  branches  cut  off  the  preceding  year.  The 
leading  shoot  is  every  year  to  be  shortened,  and  every  shoot 
that  is  left  to  produce  fruit  should  be  clipped ;  which  pre- 
vents the  tree  from  beino^  exhausted  in  making:  wood  at  the 
end  of  the  branch.  Such  branches  as  may  have  borne  fruit, 
must  be  cut  out  every  year,  in  order  to  promote  the  growth 
of  a  supply  of  young  fruit-bearing  branches. 

6* 


66  GOOSEBERRY. 

GOOSEBERRY. 
Groseiller.     Ribes  grossularia,  uva,  crispa,  etc. 

The  Gooseberry  is  a  native  of  several  parts  of  Europe, 
and  is  indigenous  in  America,  as  far  north  as  68*^.  It  is 
cultivated  to  greater  perfection  in  England  than  in  any  other 
part  of  the  world.  In  Spain  and  Italy,  this  fruit  is  scarcely 
known.  In  France,  it  is  neglected.  In  Lancashire,  Eng- 
land, and  some  parts  of  the  adjoining  counties,  almost  every 
cottager  cultivates  the  Gooseberry,  with  a  view  to  prizes 
given  at  what  are  called  Gooseberry  Prize  Meetings ;  of 
these,  there  is  annually  published  an  account,  with  the  names 
and  weights  of  the  successful  sorts,  in  what  is  called  the 
Manchester  Gooseberry  Book.  The  prizes  vary  from  ten 
shillings  to  five  and  ten  pounds  sterling.  There  are  meet- 
ings held  in  the  spring  to  "  make  up,"  as  the  term  is,  the 
persons,  and  the  conditions  of  exhibition ;  and  iu  August, 
to  weigh  and  test  the  fruit,  and  determine  the  prizes. 

In  Lindley's  Guide  to  the  Orchard  and  Fruit  Garden, 
seven  hundred  and  twenty-two  varieties  are  described  ;  from 
which  the  following  are  selected,  as  in  most  repute  for  size, 
flavour,  and  other  good  qualities  : 

RED. 

British  Crown.  Boardman's.  This  variety  is  noted  as  being  a  fine  fla- 
voured fruit,  especially  for  tarts.  Thirty-three  prizes  had  been  awarded  for 
it  in  1829;  the  largest  berry  weighing  18  pennyweights  and  10  grains. 

Champagne.  The  fruit  of  this  variety  is  held  in  great  esteem  for  its 
delicious  flavour;  the  berry  is  of  medium  size,  somewhat  oblong  and  hairy. 

Capper's  Top  Sawyfr.  This  is  a  late  fruit,  of  oblong  shape,  and  hairy 
near  the  base.  One  hundred  and  seventy-one  prizes  were  obtained  for  this 
in  1838  and  9  ;  the  heaviest  berry  weighing  22  dwts.  17  grains. 

Ckown  Bob,  Melting's.  This  variety  won  eighty-five  prizes  in  two  sea- 
sons ;  the  largest  berry  weighing  21  dwts.  and  12  grains.  It  is  a  late  fruit, 
of  oblong  shape,  bright  red  colour,  and  hairy. 

Early  Red,  Wilmofs.  This  variety  is  considered  by  Mr.  Wilmot  as 
first  rate  of  its  colour.  It  has  a  thin  skin ;  is  of  large  size,  very  early,  of 
excellent  flavour,  and  incredibly  productive. 

Huntsman.     This  variety,  which  originated  with  Mr.  Bratherton,  took 


GOOSEBERRY.  67 

two  hundred  and  sixteen  prizes  in  1828  and  9  ;  the  heaviest  berry  weighed 
24  dwts. 

Lancashire  Lad,  Hartshoyti' s.  One  hundred  and  fifty-six  prizes  were 
awarded  for  this  variety  in  two  years  ;  the  heaviest  berry  weighing  22  dwts. 
11  grains. 

Marquis  of  Stafford,  Knighfs.  This  much  esteemed  late  variety  is 
hairy,  of  medium  size,  bright  red  colour,  and  dehcious  fl.ivour. 

Old  Rough  Red.  This  is  a  favourite  fruit  for  family  use  ;  the  berrie* 
are  of  medium  size,  of  dark  red  colour  ;  excellent  for  preserving  as  goose 
berry  jam,  and  for  bottling  in  an  unripe  state. 

OvKR-ALL,  Bratherton's.  This  variety  took  seventy-four  prizes  in  two 
seasons,  the  average  weight  of  the  berries  being  20  dwts.  It  is  a  highly 
esteemed  fruit, 

Ploughbov.  This  is  a  medium  sized  early  fruit,  in  great  repute  for  its 
delicious  flavour  and  productiveness. 

Princf.  Regent,  Boardnian^s.  This  variety  won  one  hundred  and 
forty-one  prizes  in  two  seasons;  the  heaviest  berry  weighing  22  dwts.  11 
grains. 

Roaring  Lion,  Farmer'' s.  In  1828  three  hundred  and  forty-nine  prizes 
were  awarded  for  ttiis  variety  j  and  in  1829  it  won  four  hundred  and  fifty- 
three  prizes,  the  largest  berry  weighing  29  dwts.;  since  which  time,  ber- 
'ies  have  been  known  to  weigh  over  an  ounce  and  a  half. 
soi.?*'^'"'"'^'^"''-  Sixty  prizes  were  awarded  for  this  variety  in  two  sea- 
bearer.**^"  average  weight  of  the  berries  were  about  20  dwts.     It  is  a  great 

Sir  John   Cotgrave,  «ra?rtc/i....  „. 
and  forty-three  prizes  in  two  seasons  ;  the  heaviest  tJeriV'lJc.three  hundred 
2  grains. 

Triumphant,  Denny's.  This  is  a  medium  sized  early  berry,  weighing 
about  16  dwts.  It  is  considered  equal  in  quality  to  any  gooseberry  of  its 
colour. 

Warrington.  This  is  a  favourite  fruit  for  private  gardens  ;  the  berries 
are  of  medium  size,  very  rich  flavoured,  and  ripen  gradually  without  de- 
teriorating. 

YELLOW. 

Bunker's  Hill,  Copper's.  Two  hundred  and  ten  prizes  were  awarded 
for  this  variety  in  two  years  ;  the  heaviest  berry  weighing  20  dwts.  2  grains. 

Britannia.  This  variety  is  noted  for  its  earliness  and  delicious  flavour. 
The  fruit  is  of  medium  size,  weighing  about  18  dwts. 

Cottagk  Oirl,  Heaps's.  This  variety  won  one  hundred  and  thirty-three 
prizes  in  two  seasons:  the  largest  berry  weighing  19  dwts.  14  grains. 

Golden  Hourd.  Hill's.  A  fine  early  fruit  of  medium  size;  shape  ob- 
long; skin  tliin.  sliglitly  hairy,  of  rich  flavour,  and  not  apt  to  mildew. 

Goldkn  Yellow,  Dixon's  This  is  a  favourite,  medium  sized,  early 
fruit  for  private  gardens ;  the  skin  is  smooth,  thin,  and  transparent,  and 
the  berries  will  hang  some  time  without  becoming  flat  and  insipid. 

Gunner  H  'ricasfle's-  One  hundred  and  ninety-two  prizes  were  given 
for  this  variety  in  1828;  and  in  1829  one  hundred  and  eiglityone  prizes 
were  awarded  ;  tlie  heaviest  berry  weighing  24  dwts.  5  grains  ;  fruit  rather 
late. 


68  OOOSEBERRT. 

Invincible,  Haywood's.  This  celebrated  fruit  is  of  medium  size,  weigh- 
ing about  18  dwtsj  skin  thin,  transparent;  pulp  saccharine  and  deli- 
cious. 

KiLTON  Hero,  Hamlet's  Kilton.  One  of  the  best  early  yellow  fruited 
gooseberries ;  fruit  oblong,  slightly  hairy,  excellent  for  cooking  while  im- 
mature, and  delicious  eating  when  fully  ripe. 

Reculator,  Prophet's.  A  very  fine  fruit,  of  medium  size  and  rich  acid 
flavour ;  good  for  bottling,  being  firm,  and  not  liable  to  crack. 

Rock  WOOD,  ProjoAefs.  The  fruit  of  this  variety  is  very  early ;  it  is  of  a 
roundish,  oblong  shape,  and  slightly  hairy.  It  won  three  hundred  and  three 
prizes  in  two  years  ;  the  largest  berry  weighing  21  dwts.  3  grains. 

Sovereign,  Brathtrtan's-  Two  hundred  and  two  prizes  were  obtained 
for  this  variety  in  two  seasons ;  the  heaviest  berry  weighing  22  dwts.  17 
grains. 

VipKR,  Gordon's.  This  is  an  early  smooth  fruit,  and  won  eighty-seven 
prizes  in  two  years ;  the  largest  berry  weighing  18  dwts.  5  grains. 


Angler,  Collier's.  Three  hundred  and  sixty-five  prizes  were  awarded 
for  this  variety  in  two  seasons;  the  heaviest  berry  weighing  20  dwts.  1 
grain. 

Early  Green.  Hairy-     This  variety  is  described  in  the  Pr.".-i^gica 
Magazine  as  a  very  early  fruit;  it  is  round,  hairy,  of  a  il'"°P  gieen  cf 
and  excellent  flavour,,  bnt^wt/i^lindred  and  tiiiny-nve  prizes  were  given  for 
wii? variety  in  two  years  ;  the  heaviest  berry  weighing  18  dwts.  20  grains. 

Greenwood,  Berry's-  This  variety  obtained  two  hundred  and  four 
prizes  in  two  seasons  ;  the  largest  berry  weighing  17  dwts.  4  grains.  It  is 
a  deliciously  flavoured  fruit. 

Green  Gage,  Fitmaston's.  A  beautiful  berry  of  medium  size;  skin 
pale  green,  smooth  and  transparent ;  will  hang  long-  on  the  bush,  and 
retain  its  rich  acid  flavour  when  fully  ripe. 

Green  Myrtle,  Nixon's.  A  fine  late  gooseberry  of  large  size,  oblong 
shape;  skin  smooth,  of  pale  green  colour;  pulp  saccharine,  juicy,  and  of 
peculiar  rich  flavour. 

Heart  of  Oak,  Massey's.  Fruit  of  medium  size,  early;  skin  smooth, 
green,  with  pale  yellow  veins ;  pulp  rich,  and  high  flavoured  even  when 
fully  ripe. 

Independent,  Bigg's.  One  hundred  and  twenty-one  prizes  were  given 
for  this  variety  in  two  years  ;  the  largest  berry  weighing  16  dwts.  4  grains. 
It  is  an  early  rich  fruit. 

Jolly  Tar,  Edwards's.  Fruit  early,  of  medium  size  ;  skin  smooth, 
green,  with  yellow  veins  ;  average  weight  about  15  dwts  ;  good  to  preserve 
while  immature,  and  of  delicious  flavour  when  fully  ripe. 

Laurel,  Piirkinson's.  Fruit  of  medium  size  ;  skin  pale  green,  very 
downy  ;   an  excellent  dessert  fruit,  in  great  repute. 

Lord  Crbwe,  Clutton's.  This  celebrated  variety  obtained  ninety-six 
prizes  in  two  .seasons;  the  heaviest  berry  weighing  about  23  dwts.  It  is  a 
prolific  bearer,  and  worthy  of  general  cultivation. 

OcXAN,  Wainman's.    This  variety  won  two  hundred  and  seventy-eight 


GOOSEBERRY.  69 

prizes  in  two  seasons  ;  the  heaviest  berry  weighing  18  dwts.  8  grains.  The 
fruit  is  oblong  and  smooth. 

Troublkh,  Moore's.  One  hundred  and  sixty  prizes  were  taken  for  this 
variety  in  two  years  ;  the  largest  berry  weighing  17  dwts.  13  grains. 

WisTASTON  Hero,  Bratherton's-  Fruit  of  medim  size,  pale  green  co- 
lour ;  of  rich  pungent  flavour;  excellent  for  preserves,  and  when  fully  ripe 
it  is  a  delicious  dessert  fruit, 

WHITE. 

Bonny  Lass,  Capper's.  This  variety  won  one  hundred  and  sixty-seven 
prizes  in  two  seasons;  the  heaviest  berry  weighing  21  dwts.  10  grains. 

Cheshire  Lass,  Saunders's.  This  is  one  of  the  earliest  varieties,  and 
makes  excellent  tarts.    The  fruit  is  large,  oblong,  downy,  and  fine  flavoured. 

Governess,  Bratherton's.  One  hundred  and  twenty-four  prizes  were 
awarded  for  this  variety  in  two  years  ;  the  largest  berry  weighing  24  dwts. 

Lady  Delamere,  Wylds's.  This  variety  took  two  hundred  and  fifty- 
three  prizes  in  two  seasons  ;  the  heaviest  berry  weighing  22  dwts.  6  grains. 

Lady  of  the  Manor.  This  variety  won  ninety-eight  prizes  in  two 
seasons,  the  heaviest  berry  weighing  20  dwts.  9  grains.  It  is  held  in  great 
esteem  for  its  productiveness. 

Lioness.  Fruit  of  medium  size,  oblong  shape;  skin  thin,  transparent; 
pulp  and  juice  saccharine  and  delicious. 

Nailer,  Blomiky's.  One  hundred  and  thirty-four  prizes  were  given  for 
this  variety  in  two  seasons ;  the  largest  berry  weighing  18  dwts.  12  grains. 

Queen  Caroline.  This  variety  won  one  hundred  and  forty-two  prizes 
in  two  years  ;  the  heaviest  berry  weighing  18  dwts.  1  grain.  It  is  a  richly 
flavoured  fruit. 

Sheba  Queen,  Crompton's.  This  is  a  favourite  variety  for  private  gar- 
dens ;  the  fruit  is  early,  of  medium  size  ;  shape  oblong  ;  skin  rather  downy  ; 
pulp  pungent  and  rich. 

Smiling  Girl.  This  is  a  smallish  early  fruit,  with  thin  transparent 
skin,  and  of  peculiarly  rich  flavour  even  when  fully  ripe. 

Wellington's  Glory.  One  hundred  and  seventy-three  prizes  were  ob- 
tained in  two  seasons  for  this  variety ;  the  largest  berry  weighing  20  dwts. 
4  grains. 

White  Bear,  Mnore's.  A  fine  early  dessert  fruit ;  of  medium  size  and 
oblong  shape  ;  skin  hairy  and  somewhat  bristly  ;  a  prolific  bearer. 

White  Eagle.  This  variety  gained  four  hundred  and  seventy-six 
prizes  in  two  seasons;  the  heaviest  berry  weighing  23  dwts.  12  grains. 

White  Lion,  Chelivorth's-  One  hundred  and  two  prizes  were  given  for 
this  variety  in  two  years;  the  largest  berry  weighing  18  dwts.  22  grains. 
The  fruit  is  late,  slightly  hairy,  and  excellent  for  tarts. 

Whitesmith,  Woodward's-  This  is  a  small  early  berry,  weighing  about 
14  dwts.  The  skin  is  downy,  and  the  fruit  is  fully  equal  to  any  gooseberry 
of  its  colour. 

The  Gooseberry  may  be  propagated  by  all  the  modes  ap- 
plicable to  trees  or  shrubs,  but  that  by  cuttings  is  usually 
adopted  for  continuing  varieties,  and  that  by  seed  for  pro- 


76  GOOSEBERRT. 

curing  them.  The  cuttings  should  be  taken  from  promising 
shoots  just  before  the  leaves  begin  to  fall  in  the  autumn; 
the  greatest  part  of  the  buds  should  be  taken  off,  leaving 
only  tvi^o  or  three  buds  on  the  top.  Cut  them  at  such  a 
length  as  the  strength  and  ripeness  of  the  wood  Vi^ill  bear ; 
and  plant  them  in  good  pulverized  soil.  On  the  approach 
of  winter,  lay  some  moss  or  litter  around  them ;  and,  by 
being  well  cultivated,  they  will  be  fit  to  transplant  when  they 
are  a  year  old. 

When  bushes  are  procured  from  the  public  nurseries,  let 
the  general  supply  be  in  such  kinds  as  will  ripen  in  succes- 
sion. They  may  be  planted  in  the  kitchen  garden,  in  single 
rows,  along  the  side  of  the  walks  or  paths,  or  in  compart- 
ments by  themselves,  in  rows  from  six  to  eight  feet  apart 
from  row  to  row,  and  five  or  six  feet  apart  in  the  rows ;  or 
in  sinall  gardens,  they  may  be  trained  to  a  single  tall  stem, 
and  tied  to  a  stake  ;  this,  though  six  or  eight  feet  high,  occa- 
sions scarcely  any  shade,  and  it  does  not  occupy  much  room, 
nor  exclude  air,  while,  at  the  same  time,  the  stem  becomes 
closely  hung  with  berries,  and  makes  a  pleasant  appearance  in 
that  state.  Persons  of  taste  may  train  them  on  arched  trel- 
lises, and  if  they  are  judiciously  managed,  the  ground  around 
them  may  be  more  easily  cultivated ;  the  fruit  may  be  kept 
from  being  splashed  with  rain,  and  may  be  easily  gathered 
when  wanted,  or  preserved  by  shading  with  mats,  &c.  Those 
who  may  have  a  choice  of  soil  and  site,  should  fix  on  a  good, 
rich,  loamy  earth,  and  plant  some  of  the  choice  kinds  in  a 
northern  and  eastern  aspect,  near  the  fence,  to  come  late  in 
succession. 

The  Gooseberry  produces  its  fruit  not  only  on  the  shoot« 
of  the  preceding  year,  and  on  shoots  two  or  three  years  old, 
but  also  on  spurs  or  snags  arising  from  the  older  branches 
along  the  sides  ;  but  the  former  afford  the  largest  fruit.  The 
shoots  retained  for  bearers  should  therefore  be  left  at  full 
length,  or  nearly  so  ;  the  first  pruning  should  be  done  before 
the  buds  swell,  so  as  not  to  endanger  their  being  rubbed  off 


GOOSEBERRY.  71 

in  the  operation.  Cut  out  all  the  superfluous  cross  shoots, 
and  prune  long  ramblers  and  low  stragglers  to  some  well 
placed  lateral  or  eye  :  retain  a  sufficiency  of  the  young  well 
situated  laterals  and  terminals  to  form  successional  bearers. 
In  cuttinor  out  superfluous  and  decayed  wood,  be  careful  to 
retain  a  leading  shoot  at  the  end  of  a  principal  branch.  The 
superfluous  young  laterals  on  the  good  main  branches,  in- 
stead of  being  taken  off"  clean,  may  be  cut  into  little  stubs 
of  one  or  two  eyes,  which  will  send  out  fruit  buds  and  spurs. 

Some  persons  not  pruning  the  Gooseberry  bush  on  right 
principles,  cause  it  to  shoot  crowdedly  full  of  young  wood 
in  summer,  the  fruit  from  which  is  always  small,  and  does 
not  ripen  freely  with  full  flavour ;  on  which  account  it  is  an 
important  point  in  pruning,  to  keep  the  middle  of  the  head 
open  and  clear,  and  to  lei  the  occasional  shortening  of  the 
shoots  be  sparing  and  moderate.  Between  the  bearing 
branches  keep  a  regulated  distance  of  at  least  six  inches  at 
the  extremities,  which  will  render  them  fertile  bearers  of 
good  fruit. 

The  prize  cultivators  of  this  fruit  in  Lancashire  are  par- 
ticular hi  preparing  a  very  rich  soil,  and  they  water  occa- 
sionally with  the  liquor  which  drains  from  dunghills;  and 
there  are  some  who,  not  content  with  watering  at  the  root 
and  over  the  top,  place  a  small  saucer  of  water  under  each 
Gooseberry,  only  six  or  eight  of  which  are  left  on  a  bush  ; 
this  is  technically  called  suckling.  There  are  others  who 
ling  some  of  the  branches ;  this  is  done  by  cutting  out  small 
circles  of  bark  round  them  ;  and  by  pinching  off"  a  great  part 
of  the  young  wood,  the  strength  is  thrown  to  the  fruit. 

Unripe  Gooseberries  may  be  preserved  in  bottles  against 
winter :  some,  after  filling  the  bottles  in  a  dry  state,  stand 
them  in  a  slow  oven,  or  in  hot  water,  so  as  to  heat  them 
gradually  through  without  cracking  them ;  they  will  keep  a 
whole  year  if  closely  corked  and  sealed  as  soon  as  cold. 

The  Gooseberry  may  be  forced  in  pots  or  boxes,  placed 
in  pits,  or  in  the  peach  house  or  vinery.     "  Hay  plants  m 


72 


pots  in  November,  removes  to  the  peach  house  in  January, 
and  has  ripe  fruit  in  the  end  of  April,  which  he  sends  to 
table  growing  on  the  plants." — Hort.  Trans,  iv.  415. 


GRAPE. 

ViGNE.     Vitis,  vinifera,  viilpina. 

The  Grape  Vine  is  described  by  Loudon  as  a  trailing 
deciduous  hardy  shrub,  with  a  twisted,  irregular  stem,  and 
long,  flexible  branches,  decumbent,  like  those  of  the  bramble, 
or  supporting  themselves,  when  near  other  trees,  by  means 
of  tendrils,  like  the  pea.  The  leaves  are  large,  lobed, 
entire,  or  serrated  and  downy,  or  smooth,  green  in  summer, 
but  when  mature,  those  of  varieties  in  which  the  predomi- 
nating colour  is  red,  constantly  change  to,  or  are  tinged 
with  some  shade  of  that  colour ;  and  those  of  white,  green, 
or  yellow  Grapes,  as  constantly  change  to  yellow,  and  are 
never  in  the  least  tinged  either  with  purple,  red,  or  scarlet. 
The  breadth  of  the  leaves  varies  from  five  to  seven  or  ten 
inches,  and  the  length  of  the  foot  stalks  from  four  to  eight 
inches.  The  flowers  are  produced  on  the  shoots  of  the 
same  year,  which  shoots  generally  proceed  from  those  of 
the  year  preceding :  they  are  in  the  form  of  a  raceme,  of  a 
greenish  white  colour,  and  fragrant  odour,  appearing  in 
the  open  air  in  June ;  and  the  fruit,  which  is  of  the  berry 
kind,  attains  such  maturity  as  the  season  and  situation  admit, 
by  the  middle  or  end  of  September.  The  berry,  or  Grape, 
is  generally  globular,  but  often  ovate,  oval,  oblong,  or  finger- 
shaped  ;  the  colour  green,  red,  yellow,  amber,  and  black,  or 
a  variegation  of  two  or  more  of  these  colours.  The  skin  is 
smooth,  the  pulp  and  juice  of  a  dulcet,  poignant,  elevated, 
generous  flavour.  Every  berry  ought  to  enclose  five  small 
heart  or  pear  shaped  stones;  though,  as  some  generally 
fail,  they  have  seldom  more  than  three,  and  some  varieties, 


GRAPE.  73 

when  they  attain  a  certain  age,  as  the  Ascalon,  or  Sultana 
raisin,  none.  The  weight  of  a  berry  depends  not  only  on 
its  size,  but  on  the  thickness  of  its  skin  and  texture  of  the 
flesh,  the  lightest  being  the  thin-skinned  and  juicy  sorts,  as 
the  S\\«et  Water  or  Muscadine  ;  and  what  are  considered 
as  large  berried  of  these  varieties,  will  weigh  from  five  to 
seven  pennyweights,  and  measure  from  one  to  two-thirds  of 
an  inch  in  girth.  A  good-sized  bunch  of  the  same  sorts 
may  weigh  fiom  two  to  six  pounds ;  but  bunches  have  been 
grown  of  the  Syiuan  Grape,  in  Syria,  weighing  forty  pounds, 
and  in  England  weighing  from  ten  to  nineteen  pounds.  A 
single  vine,  in  a  large  pot,  or  grown  as  a  dwarf  standard,  in 
the  manner  practised  in  the  vineyards  in  the  North  of  France, 
ordinarily  produces  fiom  three  to  nine  bunches ;  but  by 
superior  management  in  gardens  in  England,  the  number 
of  bunches  is  prodigiously  increased,  and  one  plant,  that  of 
the  red  Hamburgh  sort,  in  the  vinery  of  the  royal  gardens 
at  Hampton  Court,  has  produced  two  thousand  two  hundred 
bunches,  averaging  one  pound  each,  or  in  all  nearly  a  ton. 
That  at  Valentine,  in  Essex,  has  produced  two  thousand 
bunches  of  nearly  the  same  average  weight. 

The  age  to  which  the  vine  will  attain  in  warm  climates  is 
so  great  as  not  to  be  known.  It  is  supposed  to  be  equal  or 
even  to  surpass  that  of  the  oak.  Pliny  speaks  of  a  vine 
which  had  existed  six  hundred  years  ;  and  Bose  says,  there 
are  vines  in  Burgundy  upward  of  four  hundred  years  of  age. 

In  Italy  there  are  vineyards  which  have  been  in  a  flour- 
ishing state  for  upward  of  thiee  centuries,  and  Miller  tells 
us  that  a  vineyard  a  bundled  years  old  is  reckoned  young. 
The  extent  of  the  branches  of  the  vine,  in  certain  situations 
and  circumstances,  is  commensurate  with  its  produce  and 
soil.  In  the  hedges  of  Italy,  and  woods  of  America,  they 
are  found  overtopping  the  highest  elm  and  poplar  trees  ;  and 
in  England,  one  plant,  (lately  dead,)  trained  against  a  row 
of  houses  in  Northallerton,  covered  a  space,  in  1585,  of  one 
hundred  and  thirty-seven  square  yards  j  it  was  then  above 

7 


74  GRAPE. 

one  hundred  years  old.  That  at  Hampton  Court,  nearly  of 
the  samo  age,  occupies  above  one  hundred  and  sixty  square 
yards ;  and  that  at  Valentine,  in  Essex,  above  one  hundred 
and  forty-seven  square  yards.  The  size  to  which  the  trunk, 
or  stem,  sometimes  attains  in  warm  climates,  is  so  great  as 
to  have  afforded  planks  fifteen  inches  broad,  furniture,  and 
statues ;  and  the  Northallerton  vine,  above  mentioned,  in 
1785  measured  four  feet  in  ciicumference  near  the  ground, 
and  one  branch  of  the  Hampton  Court  vine  measures  one 
hundred  and  fourteen  feet  in  length.  Vine  timber  is  of  great 
durability. 

The  varieties  of  the  Grape  in  countries  where  it  is  gi'own 
for  the  wine  press,  are  as  numerous  as  the  vineyards  ;  for  as 
these  for  the  most  part  differ  in  soil,  aspect,  elevation,  or 
otherwise,  and  as  the  vine  is  greatly  the  child  of  local  cir- 
cumstances, its  habits  soon  become  adapted  to  those  in 
which  it  is  placed.  When  it  is  considered  that  a  vineyard 
once  planted  will  last  two  or  three  centuries,  it  will  readily 
be  conceived  that  the  nature  of  a  variety  may  be  totally 
changed  during  only  a  part  of  that  time.  The  varieties 
mostly  in  esteem  for  wine  making  are  small  berries,  and 
bunches  with  an  austere  taste.  The  Burgundy,  as  modified 
by  different  soils  and  situations,  may  be  considered  the  most 
general  vineyard  Grape  of  France,  from  Champagne  or 
Marne,  to  Marseilles  or  Bordeaux. 

The  best  wine  in  Italy  and  Spain  is  also  made  from  Grapes 
of  this  description  ;  but  in  both  countries  many  of  the  larger- 
berried  sorts  are  grown  on  account  of  their  producing  more 
liquor.  The  sweet  wines,  as  the  Malmsey,  Madeira,  Con- 
Btantia,  Tokay,  &c.,  are  made  from  sweet-berried  Grapes, 
allowed  to  remain  on  the  plants  till  over-ripe.  That  wine 
is  the  strongest,  and  has  most  flavour,  in  which  both  the 
skins  and  stones  are  bruised  and  fermented.  The  same 
thing  is  the  case  in  making  cider;  but  in  both  processes 
bruising  the  stones  or  kernels  is  neglected.  The  vine  was 
formerly  extensively  cultivated  in  Britain  for  the  wine  press, 


ORAPE.  75 

but  its  culture  is  now  confined  to  the  garden  as  a  dessert 
fruit ;  and  they  have  in  that  country  not  only  the  best  varie- 
ties, but  thev  grow  the  fruit  to  a  larger  size,  and  of  a  higher 
flavour,  than  is  done  any  where  else  in  the  world ;  this  is 
owing  to  the  perfection  of  their  artificial  climates,  and  the 
great  attention  paid  to  soil  and  subsoil,  and  other  points  of 
culture.  The  fruit  is  produced  in  some  vineries  during  every 
month  in  the  year;  and  in  the  London  markets  (generally) 
it  is  to  be  had  in  the  highest  degree  of  perfection  from  March 
to  January. 

The  vine  will  thrive  in  any  soil  that  has  a  dry  bottom  ; 
and  in  such  as  are  rich  and  deep  it  will  grow  luxuriantly, 
and  produce  abundance  of  large  fruit;  in  shallow,  dry, 
chalky,  or  gravelly  soils,  it  will  produce  less  fruit,  but  of 
better  flavour.  Speechly  recommends  dung  reduced  to  a 
black  mould,  the  dust  and  dirt  of  roads,  the  offal  of  animals, 
or  butchei's'  manure,  horn  shavings,  old  rags,  shavings  of 
leather,  bone  dust,  dung  of  deer  and  sheep,  human  excre- 
ment when  duly  meliorated  by  time,  a  winter's  frost,  and 
repeatedly  turning  over.  Abercrorabie  says  that  dung  out 
of  a  cow-house,  peifectly  rotted,  is  a  fine  manure  for  the 
vine  ;  he  recommends  dralnings  from  dunghills  to  be  used 
over  the  ground  once  in  ten  or  fourteen  days  from  the  time 
the  buds  rise,  till  the  fruit  is  set,  and  that  fresh  horse  dung 
be  spread  over  the  ground  in  autumn  as  a  manure,  and  also 
to  protect  the  roots  from  the  inclemency  of  the  weather ; 
some,  however,  disapprove  of  manuring  high,  as  being  cal- 
culated to  produce  wood  rather  than  fruit-* 

The  general  mode  of  propagating  the  vine  is  by  cuttings, 
either  a  foot  or  more  long,  with  a  portion  of  two  year  old 


*  It  has  been  proved  by  repeated  experiments  that  the  best  manure  for 
vines,  is  the  branches  pruned  from  the  vines  themselves,  cut  into  small 
pieces  and  mixed  with  ttie  soil  by  means  of  a  garden  hoe.  Dr.  Liebig.  in 
his  'Organic  Chemistry,'  mentions  several  instances  of  vines  bein?  kept  i;i 
a  thrivin.2  condition  for  from  ten  to  thirty  years  by  the  trimmings  of  vines 
alone.  The  discovery  was  made  by  poor  peasants,  who  could  not  afford 
to  buy  the  ordinary  kinds  of  manure. 


76  CRAPE. 

wood,  or  short,  with  only  one  bud,  or  one  bud  and  a  half 
joint,  &c.  Vines  are  to  be  had  at  the  nurseries,  propagated 
either  from  layei-s,  cuttings,  or  eyes  ;  but  plants  raised  from 
cuttings  are  generally  preferred ;  many  are  of  opinion  that 
it  is  a  matter  of  indifference  from  which  class  the  choice  is 
made,  provided  the  plants  are  well  rooted,  and  in  good 
health,  and  the  wood  ripe.  A  mode  of  very  general  utility 
is  to  select  the  plants  in  the  nursery  a  year  before  wanted, 
and  to  order  them  to  be  potted  in  very  large  pots.  Varie- 
ties witliout  end  are  raised  from  seed,  and  it  is  thought  that 
by  piopagating  from  the  seed  of  successive  generations, 
some  sorts  may  ultimately  be  procured,  better  adapted  for 
ripening  their  fruit  in  the  open  air  than  now  known.  A 
Beedling  vine,  carefully  treated,  will  show  blossoms  in  its 
fourth  or  fifth  year ;  say  that  it  produces  a  fair  specimen  of 
its  fruit  in  the  sixth  year,  then  a  new  generation  may  be 
obtained  so  often;  but  seed  ought  never  to  be  sown,  except 
for  experiment. 

The  following  method  of  grafting  the  vine  is  recommended 
by  Mr.  Loudon  :  Select  a  scion  with  one  good  eye  ;  pare  it 
beneath  the  eye  and  on  the  opposite  side,  in  the  form  of  a 
wedge.  Select  from  the  stock  to  be  grafted  on,  a  branch  of 
the  preceding  year ;  cut  this  off  a  little  above  the  second 
eye  from  its  base ;  then  with  a  sharp  knife  split  it  down  the 
centre  nearly  to  the  old  wood.  Out  of  each  half  of  the 
stock,  but  chiefly  out  of  that  half  which  is  opposite  the  bud, 
pare  off  as  much  as  is  necessary  to  make  it  fit  the  scion, 
which  must  be  inserted  with  its  eye  opposite  to  the  eye 
which  is  left  on  the  top  of  the  stock,  and  bandaged  together 
carefully  with  bass  matting.  Some  use  grafting  clay,  others 
composition ;  in  either  case,  a  small  hole  for  the  eye  of  the 
graft,  and  another  hole  for  the  eye  left  on  the  stock,  must 
be  left  open.  Tie  over  a  little  moss,  to  be  occasionally  sprin- 
kled with  water.  It  is  very  essential  that  the  young  shoot 
on  the  top  of  the  stock  should  be  allowed  to  grow  for  ten  or 
fifteen  days ;  then  cut  it  off,  leaving  only  one  eye  and  one 


DESCRIPTIVE    LIST    OF    GRAPES.  77 

leaf  to  draw  the  sap  and  keep  alive  the  circulation,  till  both 
scion  and  stock  are  perfectly  united. 

William  Robert  Prince,  in  his  Treatise  on  the  Vine,  pub- 
lished in  1S30,  enumerated  about  five  hundred  and  fifty  va- 
rieties under  cultivation,  in  the  vineyard  attached  to  the  Lin- 
naean  Botanic  Garden  at  Flushing,  including  about  ninety 
American  native  Grapes ;  but  no  sufficient  evidence  has  as 
yet  been  exhibited  of  the  foreign  varieties  flourishing  in 
vineyards  here,  equal  to  what  they  do  in  Europe.  Mr.  Lou- 
bat  once  attempted  to  establish  a  vineyard  on  Long  Island, 
which  he  abandoned  after  six  years'  arduous  exertion.  The 
following  have  been  found  to  succeed  best  in  private  shel- 
tered gardens  in  the  vicinity  of  New- York  :  the  Sweetwater, 
the  Chasselas,  the  Muscadine,  the  White  Tokay,  the  Black 
Hamburgh,  the  Blue  Cortiga,  the  Miller  Burgundy,  the 
Austrian  Muscadel,  the  Messlier,  the  Morilon,  the  Black 
Prince,  Blanc,  and  some  excellent  seedling  sorts  from  the 
imported  Lisbon  Grapes.  To  plant  a  vinery  for  a  full  crop 
of  good  Grapes  of  various  flavours,  take  a  white  and  red 
Muscat,  a  white  and  red,  or  black  Muscadel,  a  white  Raisin 
Grape,  a  white  and  red  Hamburgh,  a  Stilwell's,  and  red 
Sweetwater,  a  white  and  red  Nice,  a  black  Damascus,  a 
red  Syracuse,  and  a  black  Constantia.  The  above  list  con- 
tains some  of  the  most  esteemed  table  Grapes  of  all  colours 
and  flavours,  which  will  ripen  in  succession. 


SELECT  DESCRIPTIVE   LIST  OF  NATIVE 
GRAPES. 

Alexander,  Constantia  of  Vevay,  Madeira  of  York,  Pa.,  Winne,  Schuyl- 
kill  Muscadel.  A  good  wine  fruit,  of  large  size,  blackish  colour,  and  ob- 
long form ;  very  juicy  and  pungent ;  a  great  and  sure  bearer. 

Bland,  Bland's  Madeira,  Bland's  Virginia,  Mazzei,  Pou-el.  A  pale 
red  grape,  of  large  size  and  round  shape,  rather  musky,  but  the  juice  is 
sweet  and  lively. 

Carolina  Perfumed.  A  medium  sized  fruit,  of  purple  colour  and 
rather  an  unpleasant  odour;  it  is,  however,  considered  as  well  adapted  for 
wine,  being  rather  pungent,  very  juicy,  and  pulpless. 

7* 


78  GRAPE. 

Catawba,  Red  Muticy,  To  Kalon.  A  fine  variety,  above  medium  size, 
of  dark  red  colour,  in  f'>rm  round,  in  flavour  delicious  for  the  dessert,  and 
highly  productive  ;   it  ripens  soon  after  the  Isabella. 

Cunningham.  A  native  of  I'rince  Edward's  county,  Virginia;  the  ber- 
ries are  round,  black,  of  medium  size,  and  not  liable  to  rot ;  they  are  said 
to  resemble,  in  tiiste,  the  Nigrillo  of  Madeira,  and  are  considered  good  for 
wine  as  well  as  for  the  table. 

Elsinburg.  Fruit  small,  round,  of  purple  colour,  and  delicate  musky 
flavour,  without  pulp;  good  for  wine,  and  as  a  dessert  fruit ;  the  vine  is 
very  hardy  and  productive. 

Hide's  Eliza.  Berries  large,  oval,  of  violet  colour,  and  excellent  fla- 
vour; alike  suitpd  for  the  dessert  and  for  wine. 

Isabella.  A  well  known  and  hif;hly  estimated  variety.  Fruit  large, 
oval,  of  rich  purple  colour,  covered  with  bloom  ;  skin,  under  good  cultiva- 
tion, thin  ;  flesh  juicy,  rich,  and  vinous  ;  an  excellent  dessert  fruit. 

LuFBORouGH.  A  swcctfox  grapc  of  large  size  and  round  shape;  skin, 
dark  purple  ;  pulp  dissolving  in  a  saccharine  musky  juice. 

Maddox.  a  good  wine  grape,  not  liable  to  rot ;  it  is  of  medium  size ; 
roundish ;  of  a  brownish  red  colour,  and  a  brisk  vinous  flavour. 

Norton's  Virginia  Seedling,  Longworth^s  Ohio.  An  early  fruit  of 
medium  size  and  dark  purple  colour;  it  ripens  in  September  ;  makes  ex- 
cellent wine  ;  it  is  also  generally  approved  as  a  dessert  fruit. 

Pond's  Sekdling.  A  large  purple  grape  of  roundish  form,  thin  skin, 
and  of  rich  pungent  flavour;  adapted  for  wine,  as  well  as  for  the  table. 

Scuppernong.  This  species  is  very  prolific;  the  berries  are  large,  round- 
ish, and  of  a  colour  varying  from  brick  red  to  black;  makes  peculiar  Mus- 
cat wine,  and  is  highly  esteemed  as  a  dessert  fruit. 

Warren,  Madeira.  A  round  fruit  of  medium  size  and  dark  purple  co- 
lour ;  it  is  considered  by  some  as  the  most  luscious  of  all  native  grapes  ;  it 
makes  excellent  wine. 

Woodson.  A  small  round  black  Virginian  variety,  from  Prince  Edward's 
county;  it  is  celebrated  as  a  very  proper  fruit  for  the  manufacture  of 
sparkling  wine  ;  it  ripens  later  than  most  other  varieties,  but  yields  abun- 
dantly. 

The  above  list  comprises  the  most  esteemed  species  of 
Native  Grapes  under  cultivation  ;  the  greater  part  of  which, 
with  the  best  of  the  foreign  varieties,  may  be  purchased  at 
the  Commercial  Garden  and  Nursery  of  Messrs.  Parsons  & 
Co.,  Flushing,  Long  Island,  near  New- York. 

Previous  to  planting  vines,  care  should  be  taken  that  the 
ground  be  well  pulverized  and  prepared  for  some  distance 
around  for  the  roots  to  spread.  The  soil  should  be  deep  and 
dry,  and  some  rich  compost,  or  vegetable  mould,  should  be 
used  around  the  roots  in  filling  in ;  a  handful  or  two  of  wet 


GRAPE.  79 

ashes  to  each  plant  is  recommended  by  Mr.  Loubat,  as  bene- 
ficial ;  and  he  recommends  the  planting  to  be  done  in  the 
month  of  March,  or  early  in  April. 

There  are  various  methods  adopted  in  training  and  prun- 
ing the  vine ;  and  it  appears  impossible  to  lay  down  rules 
to  suit  every  cultivator.  The  vine  having,  like  other  trees, 
a  tendency  to  produce  its  most  vigorous  shoots  at  the  ex- 
tremities of  the  branches,  and  particularly  so  at  those  which 
are  situated  highest,  it  generally  happens,  when  it  is  trained 
high,  that  the  greater  portion  of  the  fruit  is  borne  near  the 
top  ;  and  it  has  been  observed,  that  the  fruit  produced  on 
the  vigorous  shoots,  which  naturally  grow  at  the  extremities 
of  the  long  branches,  is  generally  more  abundant,  and  of 
finer  quality  than  that  produced  on  the  short  lateral  ones, 
from  which  circumstance,  high  training  seems  to  be  the  best 
calculated  fur  private  gardens. 

In  some  parts  of  Italy,  vines  are  cultivated  together  with 
Mulberry  trees,  and  are  allowed  to  mingle  and  hang  in  fes- 
toons;  thus  silk  and  wine  are  produced  on  the  same  spot; 
and  it  is  considered  that  when  -vines  are  allowed  to  grow 
over  trees,  on  the  side  of  a  house,  or  on  bowers,  or  extended 
entail  poles,  without  much  trimming,  they  will  produce  more 
fruit,  and  are  not  so  liable  to  mildew. 

Dr.  G.  W.  Chapman,  of  New- York,  having  paid  some 
attention  to  the  cultivation  of  native  Grapes,  observes,  that 
the  vine,  in  its  natural  state,  seldom  or  never  throws  out 
bearing  shoots  until  it  reaches  the  top  of  the  ti'ee  on  which 
it  ascends,  when  the  branches  take  a  horizontal  or  descend- 
ing position.  From  this  fact  he  considers  horizontal  training 
preferable  to  that  in  the  fan  shape.  From  the  experiments 
he  has  made,  he  has  found  that  the  shoots  coming  fiom  those 
parts  of  the  branches  bent  downward,  are  more  productive 
than  fn-m  those  ascending;  he  considers  deep  digging 
around  the  vine,  even  to  the  destruction  of  some  of  the  ex- 
tending roots,  as  calculated  to  promote  the  growth  of  more 
fruit  and  less  wood,  than  if  allowed  to  spread  near  the  sur- 


80  GRAPE. 

face  ;  and  he  disapproves  stopping  the  shoots  before  the  fruit 
until  early  in  July. 

Mr.  William  Wilson,  of  Clermont,  leaves  his  foreign  vines 
their  whole  length  at  the  time  of  trimming  in  October.  In 
November,  they  are  laid  on  the  ground  at  full  length,  fastened 
down  with  pins,  and  covered  lightly  with  earth ;  in  this  state 
they  lie  all  the  winter.  In  April,  as  soon  as  the  weather 
will  permit,  they  are  uncovered,  and  left  lying  on  the  ground 
ten  or  twelve  days  :  by  the  first  of  May,  the  vines  are  trained 
to  stakes  or  poles  of  the  length  of  ten  feet  and  upward ; 
and  by  the  middle  of  June  the  stakes  are  entirely  covered 
by  new  shoots  of  the  vine,  and  with  plenty  of  fruit,  which 
ripens  in  September.  INIr.  W.  says,  that  until  he  pursued 
his  present  course,  his  fruit  was  frequently  blasted  and  mil- 
dewed, but  that  he  has  now  vines  twenty  or  thirty  feet  long, 
which  run  up  the  fruit  trees  adjoining;  others,  being  carried 
up  eight  or  ten  feet,  are  stretched  horizontally.  It  is  seldom 
he  gatheis  fruit  within  three  or  four  feet  of  the  ground,  and 
he  has  never  any  blasted  or  infected  with  mildew  ;  he  keeps 
the  ground  cultivated  by  frequent  hoeing  j  but  he  says  he 
has  used  no  manure  for  ten  years  or  more. 

Edward  H.  Bonsall  has  a  vineyard  of  American  Grapes 
at  Germantown,  Pa.,  in  a  high  state  of  cultivation.  In  page 
331  of  Prince's  Treatise  on  the  Vine,  is  a  letter  to  the  au- 
thor, containing  some  valuable  information,  from  which  the 
following  is  extracted  as  appropriate  to  our  subject. 

Mr.  Bonsall's  vineyard  is  situated  between  the  Schuylkill 
and  Delaware  Rivers,  four  miles  from  the  former,  and  eight 
from  the  latter,  at  an  elevation  of  three  hundred  feet  above 
their  level ;  has  an  aspect  facing  S.  S.  E.,  with  a  substratum 
of  light  isinglass  soil,  and  seems  well  suited  to  the  purpose. 
He  says,  "  from  my  experience,  both  on  my  premises  and  at 
other  places,  it  is  my  opinion  that  we  should  reject  almost 
all  the  foreign  varieties,  especially  where  our  object  in  culti- 
vating them  is  to  make  wine."  He  has  upward  of  thirty 
varieties  of  American  vines  under  cultivation ;   he  recom- 


GRAPE.  81 

mends  preparing  the  ground  by  ploughing  with  two  ploughs 
with  strong  teams,  one  immediately  behind  the  other,  in  the 
same  furrow,  each  of  them  set  deep ;  and  after  the  plough- 
ing is  completed,  to  be  harrowed  thoroughly.  Then  in  the 
direction  the  rows  are  intended  to  be  planted,  parallel  fur- 
rows are  run  across  the  field,  at  the  distance  of  eight  feet 
from  each  other ;  these  are  afterward  crossed  at  right  an- 
gles, five  feet  asunder.  In  the  opening,  at  the  intersection 
of  these  furrows,  cuttings  from  nine  to  twelve  inches  long 
are  planted,  and  arranged  with  a  view  to  the  vines  being, 
when  grown,  at  distances  of  four  by  seven  feet  from  each 
other;  to  this  end,  he  frequently  plants  two  cuttings  in  a 
place,  some  of  which  are  used  to  fill  up  with,  in  case  of 
failures.  He  says,  that  in  1829  he  planted  in  nursery  beds 
from  two  to  three  thousand  cuttings  as  late  as  the  middle  of 
April  to  the  middle  of  May,  with  better  success  than  at  any 
previous  time.  "  In  this  case  the  slips  should  be  kept  in  a 
cool,  damp  place,  where  vegetation  may  be  held  in  check. 
To  insure  their  freshness,  sprinkle  them  occasionally  with 
water.  Previous  to  planting  cut  them  a  proper  length,  and 
place  them  with  their  lower  ends  three  or  four  inches  in 
water,  in  a  tub  above  ground,  where  they  may  soak  three  or 
four  days.  At  this  season  the  temperature  will  be  likely  to 
be  such  as  to  spur  vegetation  at  once  into  healthy  and 
vigorous  action.  The  autumn,  or  early  in  the  spring,  is 
preferable  for  rooted  plants.  In  the  autumn  of  the  first 
year,  after  the  frost  has  killed  the  unrij^e  part  of  the  young 
shoots,  they  should  be  pruned  down  to  the  mature,  firm 
wood,  and  then  with  a  hoe  hilled  over  with  the  surrounding 
soil,  which  will  completely  protect  them  through  the  winter. 
If  left  without  protection  the  first  winter,  many  of  them  will 
perish." 

JNIr.  Bonsall  says,  his  mode  of  training,  as  far  as  he  is 
aware  of  it,  is  entirely  j^eculiar  to  himself,  which  he  describes 
as  follows :  "  I  take  chestnut  posts,  the  thickness  of  large 
fence  rails,  seven  feet  in  length ;  these  I  plant  along  the 


82  GRAPE. 

rows,  at  distances  of  ten  feet  from  each  other,  and  at  such 
a  depth  as  to  leave  five  feet  above  the  surface  of  the  earth ; 
then  taking  three  nails  to  each  post,  and  driving  them  to 
within  half  an  inch  of  their  heads,  the  first  two  and  a  half 
feet  from  the  ground,  a  second  midway  between  that  and 
the  top,  and  the  third  near  the  top,  I  attach  No.  11  iron  wire 
(one  degree  soft  is  best)  firmly  to  one  of  the  nails  in  the 
end  post,  pass  on  to  the  next,  and  stretching  it  straight  and 
tight,  give  it  one  turn  round  a  nail  in  the  same  line  as  the 
one  to  which  it  was  first  attached.  Having  in  this  manner 
extended  it  along  the  three  courses,  the  whole  length  of  the 
row,  my  trellis  is  formed.  I  have  had  a  portion  of  my  vine- 
yard fitted  up  in  this  way  for  three  years,  and  experience 
has  confirmed  the  superior  fitness  of  the  plan.  It  is  not  its 
least  recommendation,  that  it  possesses  in  a  degree  the  cha- 
racter of  labour-saving  machinery.  A  very  important  and 
extensive  labour-making  portion  of  the  operations  in  the 
vineyard  during  the  summer,  is  the  attention  required  by  the 
growing  shoots  to  keep  them  properly  trained  up.  They 
grow  and  extend  themselves  so  rapidly,  that  where  the  strips 
of  the  trellis  are  lath,  or  where  poles  are  used  to  support 
vines,  unless  very  closely  watched,  they  fall  down  in  every 
direction,  in  a  very  unsightly  and  injurious  manner.  Here 
the  wire  being  small,  the  tendrils  or  claspers  eagerly  and 
firmly  attach  themselves  to  it,  and  thus  work  for  themselves 
in  probably  two-thirds  of  the  instances  where  the  attention 
of  the  vigneron  would  otherwise  be  required.  There  is  a 
free  access  afforded  to  the  sun  and  air,  and  no  hold  for  the 
wind  to  strain  the  frame,"  &:c.  ISIr.  Bonsall  says  faither,  "  I 
shall  not  enter  into  a  minute  description  of  my  manner  of 
pruning,  but  may  just  say,  that  after  the  vines  have  attained 
a  full  capacity  for  production,  (say  five  years  from  the  cut- 
ting,) my  view  is  to  prepare  them  for  bearing  an  average  of 
fifty  clusters  to  each,  leaving  several  shoots  of  from  three  to 
five  joints  on  a  vine  for  this  purpose.  When  fresh  pruned, 
they  will  not  be  more  than  four  feet  high,  at  their  greatest  age." 


GRAPE.  83 

Dr.  R.  T.  Underhill,  of  New- York,  has  a  vineyard  at 
Croton  Point,  near  Sing  Sing,  where,  after  having  sunk 
thousands  of  dollars  in  attempting  to  raise  the  most  cele- 
brated foreign  varieties,  he  abandoned  the  project  as  vision- 
ary, and  commenced  planting  the  Isabella  Grape  in  1S32, 
and  the  Catawba  in  1S35.  Mr.  Underhill  has  now  upward 
of  twenty  acres  of  these  grapes,  chiefly  of  the  former,  un- 
der the  most  successful  cultivation.  He  says  that  the  Isa- 
bella Grape  ripens  two  or  three  weeks  earlier  than  the  Ca- 
tawba, and  that  these  two  varieties  are,  in  his  estimation,  the 
best  adapted  for  general  purposes  ;  the  former  yielding  with 
him  a  more  valuable  crop  than  any  other  with  which  he  is  ac- 
quainted. He  says  that  the  quality  of  this  fruit  has  improved 
very  much  within  a  few  years,  the  clusters  and  berries  being 
much  larger  and  sweeter;  and  that  they  are  capable  of  still 
greater  improvement  by  high  cultivation. 

The  following  extracts  are  from  Dr.  Underhill's  commu- 
nication to  the  editor  of  the  '  Cultivator,'  published  January 
2Sth,  1843  : 

"  In  this  latitude,  (south  of  the  highlands  of  the  Hudson,) 
I  find  that  the  Isabella  Grape  ripens  quite  as  well  when 
planted  in  a  level  field,  protected  from  the  north  and  west 
winds  by  woods  or  hedges,  as  on  declivities.  Several  of  my 
vineyards  are  thus  located,  and,  as  far  as  I  can  perceive,  the 
fruit  ripens  at  about  the  same  time,  and  is  of  the  same 
quality  as  those  planted  on  steep  side-hills.  I  think,  how- 
ever, that  north  of  the  highlands,  side-hills  would  be  prefer- 
able. To  prepare  the  ground  for  a  vineyard,  the  best  way 
is  to  turn  over  the  whole  of  the  surface  soil  from  fifteen  to 
eighteen  inches  in  depth,  early  in  the  spring,  by  ploughing 
twice  in  the  same  furrow.  This  will  place  the  richest  part 
of  the  soil  iu  a  position  where  it  will  give  the  greatest  sup- 
ply of  nourishment  to  the  vines.  Few  vineyards  in  this 
country  have  been  prepared  in  this  way ;  but  the  cost  is  so 
small  and  the  advantages  so  great,  that  it  should  be  done 
wherever  there  are  no  rocks  or  large  stones  to  prevent  it." 


84  GRAPE. 

The  following  observations  on  the  destruction  of  the  Rose- 
bug,  were  also  published  in  the  '  Cultivator,'  Sept.  13;  1842  : 
"  I  observed  that  when  the  rose-bugs  first  appeared  on  the 
vines,  they  were  so  feeble  as  to  be  unable  to  fly  even  for  a 
few  yards.  Having  surmounted  all  other  difficulties,  I  was 
determined  not  to  be  defeated  in  the  vineyard  cultivation 
of  the  Grape  by  this  insect,  and  consequently  resorted  to 
the  following  means  for  its  destruction.  I  directed  my  men 
to  take  each  a  cup,  with  a  little  water  in  it,  and  go  through 
the  vineyards  every  morning,  removing  every  bug  from  the 
vines ;  and  this  was  done  quite  rapidly  by  passing  the  cup 
under  the  leaf  and  merely  touching  it,  when  the  bugs  in- 
stantly dropped,  and  were  received  in  the  cup  containing  the 
water.  When  the  cup  was  full,  they  were  soon  destroyed 
by  pressing  the  foot  upon  them  on  a  hard  surface.  This 
plan  was  persevered  in  every  morning  as  long  as  a  bug  could 
be  found,  and  was  attended  with  such  success,  that  they 
have  given  me  very  little  trouble  since.  I  also  tried  plough- 
ing my  vineyards  just  before  winter  set  in,  so  as  to  expose 
to  the  weather  the  insect  in  the  larvae  state,  which  will 
certainly  destroy  the  young  tribe  that  have  not  descended 
below  the  reach  of  the  plough.  For  two  years  past  the 
number  has  been  so  small  that  I  have  omitted  this  process 
for  their  destruction. — R.  T.  UnderhiU." 

Although  the  man  of  taste  and  capacity  for  improving  on 
the  improvements  of  others,  may  have  gleaned  ideas  from 
the  above  extracts,  sufficient  to  enable  him  to  cultivate  the 
vine  in  his  own  garden,  it  may  be  necessary  to  direct  the 
reader's  attention  to  the  different  methods  of  cultivating  this 
excellent  fruit  in  varied  situations. 

A  vine  may  be  trained  horizontally  under  the  coping  of 
a  close  fence  or  wall,  to  a  great  distance,  and  the  borders 
in  an  east,  southeast,  and  southern  aspect  of  large  gardens, 
may  be  furnished  with  a  variety  of  sorts,  which  will  ripen 
in  great  perfection,  without  encumbering  the  borders ;  or 
the  plants  may  be   trained  low,  like   currant  bushes  j    iu 


GRAPE.  85 

which  case,  three  or  more  shoots,  eighteen  inches  or  two  feet 
in  leno-th,  may  diverge  from  the  stem  near  the  ground,  to 
supply  young  wood  animally  for  bearing.  The  summer 
jirunino-  consists  in  removing  shoots  which  have  no  fruit,  or 
are  not  required  for  the  succeeding  season  ;  and  in  topping 
fruit-bearing  shoots,  and  also  those  for  succeeding  years, 
when  inconveniently  long  and  straggling.  For  as,  by  this 
mode,  the  shoots  destined  to  bear  are  all  cut  into  three  or 
four  eyes  at  the  winter  pruning,  no  inconvenience  arises  from 
their  throwing  out  laterals  near  the  extremities,  which  top- 
ping will  generally  cause  them  to  do. 

In  training  vines  as  standards,  the  single  stem  at  the  bot- 
tom is  not  allowed  to  exceed  six  or  eight  inches  in  height, 
and  from  this  two  or  three  shoots  are  trained,  or  tied  to  a 
single  stake  of  three  or  four  feet  in  length.  These  shoots 
bear  each  two  or  three  bunches,  within  a  foot  or-  eighteen 
inches  of  the  ground,  and  they  are  annually  succeeded  by 
others  which  spring  from  their  base,  that  is,  from  the  crown 
or  top  of  the  dwarf  main  stem.  This  is  the  mode  practised 
in  the  North  of  France  and  in  Germany ;  in  the  South  of 
France  and  Italy,  the  base  or  main  stem  is  often  higher,  and 
furnished  with  side  shoots,  in  order  to  afford  a  great  supply 
of  bearing  wood,  which  is  tied  to  one  or  more  poles  of 
greater  height.  The  summer  pruning,  in  this  case,  is  nearly 
the  same  as  in  the  last.  In  the  winter  pruning,  the  wood 
that  has  borne  is  cut  out,  and  the  new  wood  shortened,  in 
cold  situations,  to  three  or  four  eyes,  and  in  warmer  places, 
to  six  or  eight  eyes. 

Nicol  observes,  that  "  Most  of  the  summer  pruning  of 
vines  may  be  performed  with  the  fingers,  without  a  knife, 
the  shoots  to  be  displaced  being  easily  rubbed  off,  and  those 
to  be  shortened,  being  little,  are  readily  pinched  asunder," 
After  selecting  the  shoots  to  be  trained  for  the  production  of 
a  crop  next  season,  and  others  necessary  for  filling  the  trellis 
from  the  bottom,  which  shoots  should  generally  be  laid  in 
at  the  distance  of  a  foot  or  fifteen  inches  from  each  other, 

8 


P6  GRAPE. 

rub  off  all  the  others  that  have  no  clusters,  and  shorten  those 
that  have,  at  one  joint  above  the  uppermost  cluster.  For 
this  purpose,  go  over  the  plants  every  three  or  four  days 
till  all  the  shoots  in  fruit  have  shown  their  clusters,  at  the 
same  time  rubbing  off  any  water  shoots  that  may  rise  from 
the  wood. 

Train  in  the  shoots  to  be  retained,  as  they  advance.  If 
there  be  an  under  trellis,  on  which  to  train  the  summer 
shoots,  they  may,  when  six  or  eight  feet  in  length,  or  when 
the  Grapes  are  swelling,  be  let  down  to  it,  that  the  fruit  may 
enjoy  the  full  air  and  light  as  it  advances  toward  maturity. 
Such  of  these  shoots  as  issue  from  the  bottom,  and  are  to 
be  shortened  in  the  winter  pruning  to  a  few  eyes,  merely  for 
the  production  of  wood  to  fill  the  trellis,  may  be  stopped 
when  they  have  grown  to  the  length  of  four  or  five  feet. 
Others  that  are  intended  to  be  cut  down  to  about  two  yards, 
and  which  issue  at  different  heights,  may  be  stopped  when 
they  have  run  three  yards,  or  ten  feet,  less  or  more,  accord- 
ing to  their  strength.  And  those  intended  to  be  cut  at  or 
near  the  top  of  the  trellis,  should  be  trained  a  yard  or  two 
down  the  back,  or  a  trellis  may  be  placed  so  as  to  form  an 
arbour ;  or  they  may  be  placed  to  run  right  or  left  a  few  feet 
on  the  uppermost  wire. 

The  stubs  or  shoots  on  which  the  clusters  are  placed  will 
probably  push  again  after  being  stopped,  if  the  plants  be 
vigorous.  If  so,  stop  them  again  and  again ;  but  after  the 
fruit  are  half  grown,  they  will  seldom  spring.  Observe  to 
divest  the  shoots,  in  training,  of  all  laterals  as  they  appear, 
except  the  uppermost  on  each,  in  order  to  provide  against 
accidents,  as  hinted  before,  in  training  the  newly-planted 
vines.  When  these  shoots  are  stoppeil,  as  directed  above, 
they  will  push  again.  Allow  the  lateral  that  pushes,  to  run 
a  few  joints,  and  then  shorten  it  back  to  one,  and  so  on  as  it 
pushes,  until  it  stops  entirely.  When  the  proper  shoots  get 
ripened  nearly  to  the  top,  the  whole  may  be  cut  back  to  the 
originally  shortened  part,  or  to  one  joint  above  it,  if  there 


GRAPE.  87 

be  reason  to  fear  that  ihe  uppermost  bud  of  the  proper  shoot 
will  start. 

Divest  the  plants  of  all  damped  and  decayed  leaves  as  they 
appear,  as  such  will  sometimes  occur  in  continued  hazy 
weather,  and  be  particularly  cautious  not  to  injure  the  leaf 
that  accompanies  the  bunch,  for  if  that  is  lost,  the  fruit  will 
be  of  little  value. 

"  Every  one  of  penetration  and  discernment,"  Nicol  ob- 
serves, "  will  admit  the  utility  of  thinning  the  berries  on 
bunches  of  Grapes,  in  order  that  they  may  have  room  to 
swell  fully ;  and,  farther,  that  of  supporting  the  shoulders  of 
such  clusters  of  the  large  growing  kinds  as  hang  loosely, 
and  require  to  be  suspended  to  the  trellis  or  branches,  in 
order  to  prevent  the  bad  effects  of  damp  or  mouldiness  in 
very  moist  seasons.  Of  these,  the  Hamburgh,  Lombardy, 
Royal  Muscadine,  Raisin,  St.  Peter's,  Syrian,  Tokay,  and 
others,  should  have  their  shoulders  suspended  to  the  trellis, 
or  to  the  branches,  by  strands  of  fresh  matting,  when  the 
berries  are  about  the  size  of  garden  peas.  At  the  same  time, 
the  clusters  should  be  regularly  thinned  out  with  narrow 
pointed  scissors,  to  the  extent  of  from  a  fourth  to  a  third 
part  of  the  berries.  The  other  close-growing  kinds,  as  the 
Frontignacs,  Muscats,  &:c.,  should  likewise  be  moderately 
thinned,  observing  to  thin  out  the  small  seedless  ben-ies  only 
of  the  Muscadine,  Sweet  Water,  and  flame-coloured  Tokay. 
In  this  manner,  handsome  bunches  and  full-swelled  benies 
may  be  obtained ;  but  more  so,  if  the  clusters  or  over-bur- 
dened plants  be  also  moderately  thinned  away.  Indeed, 
cutting  off  the  clusters,  to  a  certain  extent,  of  plants  over- 
loaded, and  pushing  weak  wood,  are  the  only  means  by  which 
to  cause  them  to  produce  shoots  fit  to  bear  fruit  next  year ; 
and  this  should  be  duly  attended  to,  so  long  as  the  future 
welfare  of  the  plants  is  a  matLer  of  importance," 

The  preceding  observations  may  be  considered  as  falling 
short  of  what  may  be  expected  on  the  cultivation  of  so  im- 
portant a  fruit  as  the  Giape ;  but  it  is  introduced  into  this 


88  MULBERRT. 

book  only  as  a  dessert  fruit.  The  modes  of  training  in 
vineyards  and  vineries  are  alike  suited  to  the  garden.  Low 
training  may  be  practised  in  borders  or  hedge  rows,  in  large 
gardens ;  and  high  training  in  sheltered  situations,  on  high 
trellises  or  arbours.  By  proper  management,  the  vine  may 
be  elevated  to  the  middle  story  of  a  house  by  a  single  stem, 
and  afterwards  trained  to  a  great  height  according  to  the 
taste  of  the  proprietor.  As  the  vine  is  often  trained  near 
buildings,  an  awning  may  be  conveniently  formed  over  the 
tops  so  as  to  admit  of  fumigating  the  vine  with  smoke  from 
tobacco,  &c.,  as  may  be  necessary  in  the  summer  season ; 
or  a  sort  of  movable  tent  may  be  made  of  light  boards,  and 
cheap  glazed  linen,  or  an  old  sail,  &c.,  capable  of  covering 
the  vine  while  a  smoke  is  created  underneath ;  this  will 
effectuaHy  destroy  such  insects  as  may  annoy  the  vine,  and 
may  prevent  mildew  and  other  diseases. 


MULBERRY. 

MuRiER.     Morus. 

There  are  several  species  of  the  Morus  or  Mulberry. 
The  white  kind  is  commonly  cultivated  for  its  leaves  to  feed 
silkworms,  though  in  some  parts  of  Spain,  and  in  Persia, 
they  are  said  to  prefer  the  Black  Mulberry.  In  China,  it 
appears  that  both  sorts  are  grown  for  this  purpose.  The 
most  esteemed  variety  of  the  white  is  grown  in  Italy,  and 
especially  in  Lombardy,  with  vigorous  shoots,  and  much 
larger  leaves  than  the  other.  The  Moms  muUicaHlis  is  cul- 
tivated in  many  parts  of  France,  and  is  by  some  preferred 
to  all  other  varieties.  It  is  said  that  a  less  quantity  of  foliage 
from  this  variety  will  satisfy  the  silkworms.  The  late  An- 
drew Parmentier,  Esq.,  was  the  means  of  introducing  seve- 
ral choice  varieties  from  that  country ;  and  our  nurserymen 
in  general,  have  of  late  years,  turned  their  attention  to  the 


MULBERRY.  89 

cultivation  of  such  as  are  best  adapted  to  silkwonns,  which 
are  sold  at  moderate  prices. 

In  France,  the  white  Mulberry  is  grown  as  pollard  Elms 
are  in  England.  In  Lombardy,  it  is  grown  in  low,  marshy 
ground.  In  China,  it  is  also  grown  in  moist,  loamy  soil, 
and  both  there  and  in  the  East  Indies,  as  low  bushe?,  and 
the  plantations  rooted  up  and  renewed  every  three  or  four 
years.  In  many  parts,  when  the  leaves  are  wanted  for  the 
worms,  they  are  stripped  off  the  young  shoots,  which  are 
left  naked  on  the  tree;  in  other  places,  the  shoots  are  cut 
off,  which  is  not  so  injurious  to  the  tree,  while  the  points  of 
the  shoots,  as  well  as  the  leaves,  are  eaten  by  the  worms. 

The  plants  are  sometimes  raised  from  seed,  and  one  ounce 
of  seed  will  produce  five  thousand  trees,  if  sown  in  rich 
loamy  soil  in  the  latter  end  of  April,  or  early  in  May ;  but 
the  young  plants  will  require  protection  the  first  winter ;  they 
are  more  commonly  propagated  by  layers  and  cuttings,  put 
down  in  the  spring.  The  Italian  variety  is  frequently  grafted 
on  seedling  stocks  of  the  common  sort,  in  order  to  preseiTe 
it  from  degenerating.  In  the  East  Indies,  the  plants  are 
raised  from  cuttings,  three  or  four  of  which  are  placed 
together  where  they  are  finally  to  remain. 

But  Mulberry  trees  are  valuable  for  their  fruit;  and  in 
England  the  black  and  red  kinds  are  in  great  esteem,  and 
much  cultivated.  The  fruit  of  the  white  Mulberry  is  white, 
and  less  acid  than  that  of  the  black  species.  The  black  is 
naturally  a  stronger  tree  than  the  other;  the  fruit  is  of  a 
dark,  blackish  red,  and  of  an  agreeable  aromatic  and  acid 
flavour.  The  red  Mulberry  has  black  shoots,  rougher  leaves 
than  the  black  Mulberry,  and  a  dark,  reddish  fruit,  longer 
than  the  common  sort,  and  of  a  very  pleasant  taste.  The 
fruit  of  the  yellow  Mulberry  is  very  sweet  and  wholesome, 
but  not  much  eaten,  excepting  by  birds;  the  timber,  how- 
ever, is  valuable,  from  its  abounding  in  a  slightly  glutinous 
milk  of  a  sulphurous  colour,  and  is  known  in  Europe  under 
the  name  of  fustic  wood,  for  dying  a  yellow  colour. 

8* 


90  MULBERRY. 

In  Russia,  the  fruit  of  the  Mortis  lartarica  is  eaten  fresh, 
conserved,  or  dried  ;  a  wine  and  a  spirit  are  also  made  from 
them,  but  the  berries  are  said  to  be  of  an  insipid  taste. 

All  the  species  of  the  Moms  are  remarkable  for  putting 
out  their  leaves  late,  so  that  when  they  appear,  gardeners 
may  safely  set  out  their  green-house  plants,  taking  it  for 
granted  that  all  danger  from  frost  is  over ;  from  this  circum- 
stance, plantations  of  Mulbeny  trees  may  be  made  in  this 
country  in  the  spring  of  the  year  with  greater  safety. 

The  Mulberry  produces  its  fruit  chiefly  on  little  shoots  of 
the  same  year,  which  arise  on  last  year's  wood  and  on  spurs 
from  the  two-year-old  wood  ;  in  both  stages,  mostly  at  the 
ends  of  the  shoots  and  the  branches.  In  pruning,  thin  out 
irregular  crossing  branches,  but  never  shorten  the  young 
wood,  on  which  fruit  is  produced.  If  any  of  the  dwarfish 
kinds  are  cultivated  as  espaliers  for  their  fruits,  cut  so  as  to 
bring  in  a  partial  succession  of  new  wood  every  year,  and 
a  complete  succession  once  in  two  years,  taking  the  old  bar- 
ren wood  out,  as  may  be  necessary.  As  the  blossom  buds 
cannot  be  readily  distinguished  from  others  in  the  winter, 
the  best  period  for  pruning  is  when  the  blossoms  first  become 
visible  in  the  spring. 

There  is  another  genus  of  plants,  known  as  the  Paper 
Mulberry,  which  is  very  ornamental,  called  Broussonttia 
papyrifera;  though  a  low  tree,  it  has  vigorous  shoots,  fur- 
nished with  two  large  leaves  ;  the  fruit,  which  is  small,  is 
surrounded  with  long  purple  hairs,  changing  to  a  black  pur- 
ple colour  when  ripe,  and  full  of  juice.  "In  China  and 
Japan,  it  is  cultivated  for  the  sake  of  the  young  shoots,  from 
the  bark  of  which  the  inhabitants  of  the  Eastern  countries 
make  paper.  The  bark  being  separated  from  the  wood,  is 
steeped  in  water,  the  former  making  the  whitest  and  best 
paper.  The  bark  is  next  slowly  boiled,  tben  washed,  and 
afterward  put  upon  a  wooden  table,  and  beat  into  a  pulp. 
This  pulp  being  put  in  water,  separates  like  grains  of  meal. 
An  infusion  of  rice,  and  the  root  of  manhiot,  are  next  added 


NECTARINE.  91 

to  it.  From  the  liquor  so  prepared,  the  sheets  of  paper  are 
poured  out  one  by  one,  and  when  pressed  the  operation  is 
finished." 

"  The  juice  of  this  tree  is  sufficiently  tenacious  to  be  used 
in  China  as  a  glue,  in  gilding  either  leather  or  paper.  The 
finest  and  whitest  cloth  worn  by  the  principal  people  at 
Otaheite,  and  in  the  Sandwich  Islands,  is  made  of  the  bark 
of  this  tree.  The  cloth  of  the  Bread  Fruit  tree  is  inferior 
in  whiteness  and  softness,  and  worn  chiefly  by  the  common 
people." 


NECTARINE. 
Pechera  Fruit  lissk,  ou  Brognons.     Jimyo-dahis  nectarina. 

The  varieties  of  this  fruit  resemble  the  Peach  in  every 
respect,  except  that  the  skin  is  peifectly  smooth,  of  a  waxen 
appearance,  and  the  flesh  generally  more  firm  ;  although  of 
the  same  genus  as  the  Peach,  which  is  so  plentiful  in  this 
country,  the  fruit  of  the  Nectarine  is  quite  a  rarity,  and  sel- 
dom appears  in  our  markets.  There  are  seventy-two  varie- 
ties cultivated  in  the  Horticultural  Garden  of  London  under 
name. 

It  is  generally  allowed  that  their  failure  here  is  occasioned 
by  the  attacks  of  insects.  The  most  efficacious  method  that 
I  have  heard  of  for  securing  any  thing  like  a  crop  of  Nec- 
tarines, is  to  fumigate  the  trees  in  the  evening,  when  the  air 
is  calm  and  serene,  at  the  season  when  the  fruit  is  ready  to 
set.  Tobacco  is  the  most  effectual  antidote  for  these  insects  ; 
but  a  friend  of  mine  collected  a  quantity  of  salt  hay  that 
had  been  used  for  his  Spinach  the  preceding  winter ;  with 
this  he  created  a  smoke,  first  on  one  side  of  his  plantation, 
and  afterward  on  the  other,  by  which  means  he  obtained  a 
good  supply  of  fruit.  Our  enterprising  horticulturist,  Mr. 
W.  Shaw,  has  succeeded  in  gathering  fine  fruit,  by  pursuing 
the  English  plan,  namely,  in  training  his  trees  against  a  close 


92  NECTARINE. 

fence ;  and  it  has  been  discovered  by  others,  that  the  Nec- 
tarine, like  the  Grape  vine,  wall  yield  best  in  sheltered  situ- 
ations. That  eminent  horticulturist,  Mr.  David  Thomas, 
obser\'es,  that  "A  vast  quantity  of  fruit  is  annually  destroyed 
by  the  Curculio,  which  causes  the  Plum,  Apricot,  and  Nec- 
tarine prematurely  to  drop  from  the  tree.  To  prevent  this 
loss,  let  the  tree,  after  the  blossoms  fall,  be  frequently  shaken 
by  a  cord  connected  vsdth  a  swinging  door,  or  with  a  work- 
ing pump-handle,  &c. ;  or  let  the  bugs  be  jarred  from  the 
tree  and  killed.  Or  keep  geese  enough  in  the  fruit  garden 
to  devour  all  the  damaged  fruit  as  it  falls.  We  know  that 
this  last  method  is  infallible." 

As  some  may  object  to  shaking  or  jarring  fruit  trees,  for 
fear  of  disturbing  the  fruit,  such  are  here  reminded,  that  if 
the  blossoms  set  more  fruit  than  can  be  supported,  it  will  not 
come  to  full  perfection,  and  the  trees  may  be  injured  in  their 
future  bearing ;  for  these  reasons,  when  fruit  sets  too  thick, 
it  should  be  thinned  in  an  early  stage  of  its  growth. 

The  Nectarine,  as  also  the  Peach  tree,  is  subject  to  injury 
by  an  insect  different  from  the  Curculio  species,  which  feeds 
on  the  sap  beneath  the  bark,  principally  near  the  surface  of 
the  earth  ;  but  if  not  checked,  will  commit  ravages  on  the 
trunk  and  root,  so  as  eventually  to  destioy  the  tree.  The 
egg  is  supposed  to  be  first  deposited  in  the  upper  part  of  the 
tree  ;  and  in  the  months  of  June  and  July,  it  becomes  a  veiy 
small  maggot,  which  drops  to  the  ground,  and  approaches  the 
tree  near  the  surface.  If  the  ground  be  kept  clear  around 
the  roots,  as  it  ought  always  to  be,  the  worm  can  readily  be 
detected  by  a  small  speck  of  gum,  which  appears  on  the  tree 
after  it  has  made  its  entrance,  which  gumminess  will  increase 
in  quantity  as  it  progresses ;  but  if  the  trees  are  thoroughly 
examined  about  once  a  week  or  ten  days,  and  the  gum, 
wherever  found,  removed  by  means  of  a  small  knife  or 
pointed  wire,  the  worm  may  be  at  once  defeated  from  mak- 
ing any  havoc  on  the  trees.  An  orchard  of  several  acres 
may  be  kept  free  from  worms  by  going  over  it  a  few  times. 


NECTARINE.  93 

After  a  shower  of  rain  is  a  good  time,  as  the  gum  can  then  be 
more  easily  discovered  ;  and  when  it  is  removed,  the  wound 
will  soon  heal  up,  and  the  danger  is  over,  provided  the  ground 
be  kept  cultivated  around  the  trees,  and  the  collar,  or  that 
part  from  which  emanate  the  main  roots,  be  near  the  surface. 

This  is  an  important  precaution,  and  should  be  attended 
to  at  the  time  of  transplanting  all  descriptions  of  trees  and 
smaller  plants  ;  because  deep  planting  prevents  the  essential 
circulation  of  the  juices  of  plants  in  their  regular  and  natural 
courses,  and,  consequently,  causes  disease  and  premature 
death  ;  and  it  must  be  admitted,  that  from  the  circumstance 
of  this  fruit  being  generally  raised  on  standard  trees,  and  in 
a  light  soil,  our  cultivators  are  apt  to  plant  too  deep ;  and 
thus  act  contrary  to  sound  judgment  and  philosophy,  with  a 
\dew  to  save  the  trouble  and  expense  of  staking  or  otherwise 
supporting  their  newly-planted  trees,  which  precaution  is 
absolutely  necessary  to  their  preservation,  even  in  less  tem- 
pestuous climates,  and  in  stiff  as  well  as  in  light  soil. 

Saltpetre  dissolved  in  the  proportion  of  one  pound  to  five 
gallons  of  water,  and  applied  round  the  stems  and  roots  of 
trees,  as  recommended  for  plants  in  general,  is,  in  my  opin- 
ion, one  of  the  best  remedies  for  the  destruction  of  various 
kinds  of  insects  ;  it  is,  moreover,  allowed  by  modem  and 
learned  physiologists  to  contain  the  most  essential  nutriment 
to  all  descriptions  of  trees  or  smaller  plants,  when  judiciously 
used.  Other  remedies  are  recommended  to  be  applied  for 
the  destruction  of  these  insects  around  fruit  trees,  besides 
those  previously  mentioned  ;  as,  dissolved  potash,  coal  tar,  sul- 
phur and  lime-mortar  mixed,  vinegar,  soapsuds,  &c.  Culture, 
upon  correct  principles,  will,  however,  in  general  operate 
not  only  as  a  radical  cure,  but  as  a  preventive  to  all  defects 
in  trees  and  plants ;  which,  to  be  healthy  and  productive, 
should  be  so  managed  that  the  sap  and  nutrimental  juices 
can  circulate  through  every  pore  which  nature  has  designed 
for  their  perpetuity.  (Soe  article  on  the  choice  of  Fruit 
Trees  in  the  Nursery ;  also,  article  Peach.) 


94  DESCRIPTIVE    LIST    OF    NECTARINES. 

The  Nectarine  is  generally  budded  on  stocks  of  the  same 
species,  or  on  the  Peach  or  Plum,  two  or  three  years  old. 
Knight  recommends  growing  Almond  stocks  for  the  finer 
kinds  of  Nectarines  and  Apricots,  as  likely  to  prevent  the 
mildew,  and  as  being  allied  to  the  Peach.  Dubreuil  recom- 
mends a  Plum  stock  for  clayey  soils,  and  the  Almond  for 
such  as  are  light,  chalky,  or  sandy.  The  same  opinion  is 
held  by  the  Montreal  gardeners.  The  P"'lemish  nurserymen 
graft  both  the  Peach  and  Nectarine  on  the  Myrabella  Plum, 
a  very  small  cherry-shaped  fruit. 

The  budding  may  be  performed  in  July  or  August,  in  the 
side  of  the  stock,  which  will,  if  properly  managed,  shoot  the 
following  spring,  and  attain  the  length  of  three  or  four  feet 
the  first  year.  After  the  budded  trees  have  ripened  their 
first  year's  shoots,  they  may  either  be  planted  where  they  are 
to  remain,  or  retained  in  the  nursery  for  two,  three,  or  four 
years,  till  in  a  bearing  state.  Whether  the  plants  be  removed 
into  the  orchaid  at  a  year  old,  or  remain  in  the  nursery,  the 
first  shoots  from  the  bud  must  be  headed  down  in  a  judicious 
manner,  in  order  to  promote  the  most  desirable  form.  In 
annual  pruning,  thin  out  superfluous  branches  and  dry  wood, 
and  shorten  the  bearing  shoots. 

Nectarines  may  be  trained  to  a  close  fence,  or  wall,  iu 
private  gardens ;  in  which  case,  such  plants  should  be  chosen 
as  are  budded  low.     (See  article  Apricot.) 


SELECT  DESCRIPTIVE   LIST  OF  NECTARINES. 

FREESTONE    NECTARINES. 

Aromatic.  A  middle  sized,  rather  globular  fruit,  skin  pale  straw  colour 
with  deep  red  or  brown  next  the  sun  ;  flesh  pale  straw,  but  red  at  the 
stone  ;  juice  of  a  rich  vinous  flavour  ;  ripe  early  in  August. 

Boston,  Lewis's  Seedling.  A  fine  native  variety,  raised  by  Mr.  Lewis, 
of  Boston;  fruit  of  medium  size;  heart-shaped;  colour  bright  yellow, 
mottled  with  red  ;  flesh  yellow,  firm,  pleasant  and  peculiar  in  flavour ;  ripe 
in  September. 


DESCRIPTIVE    LIST    OF    NECTARINES.  95 

Elruce,  Claremnnf,  Templets,  Vermash  of  some  colleciwns.  One  of  the 
very  best  and  most  high  flavoured  Nectarines  ;  fruit  medium  size,  of  a  green 
or  pale  yellow  colour,  with  violet  cheek  ;  pulp  whitish,  melting,  very 
jriicy,  rich  and  high  flavoured;  ripens  early  in  August. 

Faikchii.d's  Early.  Fruit  very  early,  but  small;  of  globular  shape, 
5'ellow  in  the  shade,  deep  scarlet  next  the  sun  ;  flesh  yellow,  not  juicy,  but 
well  flavoured  ;  ripe  in  July  and  August. 

Perki.ns's  Sr.KDLiNG.  A  very  large  beautiful  Nectarine,  raised  by  S.  G. 
Perkins,  from  the  Boston,  Lewis's  Seedling;  the  form  is  globular;  colour 
bright  yellow,  with  dark  crimson  on  one  side;  flesh  tender,  jaicy  and  high 
flavoured  ;  ripe  in  September. 

Pitmaston's  Orange.  A  good  sized  globular,  almost  heart-shaped 
fruit,  of  a  rich  yellow  colour,  but  dark  crimson  or  purple  next  the  sun  ; 
flesh  golden  yellow,  but  red  next  th«  stone,  from  which  it  separates  ;  it  is 
melting,  juicy,  saccharine  and  high  flavoured  ;  ripe  in  August. 

Scarlet.  A  middle  sized  fruit,  somewhat  ovate,  of  a  beautiful  scarlet 
colour  next  the  sun,  and  pale  red  on  the  shaded  side;  the  flesh  separates 
from  the  stone,  and  is  at  maturity  in  August. 

Vermash,  True  Vermash.  This  fruit  is  rather  of  small  size,  and  round- 
ish form,  tapering  towards  the  eye ;  the  skin  is  of  a  very  deep  red  colour 
next  the  sun  ;  and  of  a  greenish  hue  on  the  other  side ;  flesh  white,  rich 
melting  and  juicy;  at  maturity  in  August. 

Violet,  Viuktte  Hative,  Petite  VioLette  Hative,  Lord  Selsey's  Elruge, 
Large  Scarlet.  Fruit  variable  in  size,  generally  medium;  pale  yellowish 
green,  but  darkish  purple  and  red  next  the  sun  ;  flesh  melting,  juicy,  rich 
and  excellent;  ripe  in  July  and  August. 

White,  or  Flainders  Nectarine,  New  WMte,  Emcrsoii's  New  White, 
Neale's  White,  A  middle  sized,  roundish,  very  pale  fruit,  slightly  tinged 
with  red  next  the  sun ;  flesh  tender  and  juicy,  with  a  fine  vinous  flavour; 
ripe  in  August. 

CLINGSTONES,    OR    PAVIES. 

Brugnon  Vioi.ET  MusQUE,  BrugnoTi  Musque.  Fruit  large,  of  a  deep 
red  and  yellow  colour ;  skin  very  smooth  ;  flesh  yellow,  but  red  at  the 
stone ;  saccharine,  vinous,  musky  ;  at  maturity  in  August  and  September. 

Early  Newincton,  Large  Black  Newingion,  Lucombe's  Seedling. 
Fruit  below  the  middle  size,  ovate  ;  skin  pale  green,  and  on  the  sunny  side 
of  a  deep  red  colour;  pulp  super-excellent  ;  considered  by  some  as  the 
best  of  all  Nectarines;  ripe  in  August  and  September. 

Golden.  Fruit  medium  size,  of  the  finest  orange  colour,  delicately  and 
beautifully  mottled  with  reil  next  the  sun,  which  gives  to  it  a  clear  waxen 
appearance  ;  flesh  firm,  yellow,  pale  red  at  the  stone,  and  has  a  poignant, 
rich  flavour  ;  ripens  in  August  and  September. 

Red  Roman,  Roman  Red.  A  very  excellent  Nectarine,  of  large  size; 
the  skin  dark  red  next  the  sun,  and  of  a  yellowish  hue  on  the  other  side  ; 
flesh  yellowish,  but  red  next  the  stone  ;  it  abounds  with  rich  juice  when 
fully  ripe,  in  August  and  September. 

Scarlet  Newi.ngto.n,  Late  Newingfoyi,  Sio/i  Hill.  This  variety  is 
much  esteemed ,  the  fruit  is  large,  of  a  beautiful  red  colour  next  the  sun,  and 


96  ORANGE,    LEMON,    ETC. 

of  a  fine  yellow  or  amber  on  the  other  side  ;  its  quality  is  excellent,  being 
rich  and  juicy  ;  early  in  September. 

Tawny  Newington.  Fruit  large,  somewhat  ovate;  tawny-coloured, 
marbled  with  dull  red  or  orange  next  the  sun  ;  flesh  pale  yellow,  but  red 
at  the  stone ;  very  juicy,  sugary,  and  of  the  most  delicious  flavour ;  ripens 
in  August  and  September.  This,  in  England,  is  considered  one  of  the  best 
of  clingstone  Nectarines. 


ORANGE,  LEMON,  &c. 
Oranger,  Citronier,  etc.     Ciirus. 

Notwithstanding  this  fruit,  and  also  the  Lemon,  Lime, 
&c.,  are  attainable  at  all  seasons  of  the  year,  by  supplies 
from  our  Southern  States,  the  West  Indies,  and  the  South 
of  Europe,  yet  the  plants  are  entitled  to  our  notice  on  ac- 
count of  their  being  so  easily  cultivated,  and  from  their 
affording  an  ornament  by  exhibiting  their  fruit  the  whole  of 
the  year. 

The  Orange,  as  well  as  others  of  the  same  genus,  are 
generally  cultivated  as  green-house  plants,  but  may  be  kept 
in  a  light  room  throughout  our  severe  winters,  provided  the 
temperature  is  not  suffered  to  be  below  the  freezing  point, 
32  degrees.  Its  recommendations  are,  handsome  evergreen, 
shining,  tree-like  form ;  most  odoriferous  flowers,  and  bril- 
liant, fragrant,  and  delicious  fruits,  which  succeed  each  other 
perpetually,  and  aie  not  unfrequently  seen  on  the  tree  at 
the  same  time,  in  two  or  three  stages  of  growth.  A  work 
has  recently  been  published  at  Paris,  edited  by  Messrs. 
Risso  and  Poiteau,  which  contains  engravings  and  descrip- 
tions of  one  hundred  and  sixty-nine  varieties.  They  are 
arranged  as  sweet  Oranges,  of  which  they  describe  42  sorts  ; 
bitter  and  sour  Oranges,  32  sorts ;  Ber;gamots,  6  sorts ; 
Limes,  8  sorts ;  Shaddocks,  6  sorts ;  Lumes,  12  sorts ;  Le- 
nions,  46  sorts ;  Citrons,  17  sorts. 

All  the  species  of  Citrus  endure  the  open  air  at  Nice, 
Genoa,  and  Naples  j  but  at  Florence  and  Milan,  and  often 


ORANGE,  LEMON,  ETC.  97 

at  Rome,  they  require  protection  during  the  winter,  and  are 
generally  planted  in  conservatories  ajid  sheds.  In  England, 
these  trees  have  been  cultivated  since  1620 ;  they  are  gene- 
rally planted  in  conservatories.  Loudon  says  that  in  the 
south  of  Devonshire,  and  particularly  at  Saltcombe,  may  be 
seen,  in  a  few  gardens.  Orange  trees  that  have  withstood  the 
winter  in  the  open  air  upward  of  a  hundred  years.  The 
fruit  is  as  large  and  fine  as  any  from  Portugal.  Trees  raised 
from  seed,  and  inoculated  on  the  spot,  are  found  to  bear  the 
cold  better  than  trees  imported. 

At  Nuneham,  near  Oxford,  are  some  fine  old  trees,  plant- 
ed under  a  movable  case,  sheltered  by  a  north  wall.  In 
summer,  the  case  is  removed,  and  the  ground  turfed  over,  so 
that  the  whole  resembles  a  native  Orange  grove.  The  au- 
thor of  this  work,  being  a  native  of  Abingdon,  which  is 
within  three  miles  of  the  Earl  of  Harcourt's  estate,  has  had 
frequent  opportunities  of  tasting  the  fruit,  which  he  believes 
to  be  equal  to  that  of  warmer  climates.  At  Woodhall,  near 
Hamilton,  trees  of  all  the  species  of  Citrus  are  trained  against 
the  back  walls  of  forcing-houses,  and  produce  large  crops  of 
fruit. 

Any  of  the  varieties  of  the  Orange,  Lemon,  Lime,  Shad- 
dock, Citron,  &c.,  may  be  grafted  or  budded  on  stocks  of  the 
common  Orange  or  Lemon;  but  the  seed  of  Shaddocks  and 
Citrons  produce  the  strongest  stocks ;  and  on  these  may  be 
grafted  such  kinds  as  may  be  needed  for  a  conservatory. 
The  most  suitable  time  for  budding  is  July  and  August;  but 
this  operation  may  be  performed  at  any  time  when  the  sap 
is  in  motion.  The  directions  for  the  management  of  green- 
house plants,  apply  also  to  this  family  of  plants,  to  which  I 
refer  my  readers.  A  friend  of  mine,  who  is  a  native  of 
Rouen,  in  Normandy,  informs  me,  that  a  Mr.  Valee,  of  that 
city,  succeeds  in  clearing  about  twelve  thousand  francs  per 
annum  from  the  flowers  of  Orange  trees,  which  are  distilled 
for  essences,  &c. 


98  PEACH. 

PEACH. 
Pecher.     Amygdalus  Persica, 

It  is  generally  considered  that  the  Peach  is  of  Persian 
origin.  In  Media,  it  is  deemed  unwholesome ;  but  when 
planted  in  Egypt,  becomes  pulpy,  delicious,  and  salubrious. 
It  has  been  cultivated,  time  immemorial,  in  most  paits  of 
Asia;  when  it  was  introduced  into  Greece,  is  uncertain.  The 
best  Peaches  in  Europe  are  supposed  to  be  grown  in  Italy, 
on  standards. 

The  list  of  Peaches  in  the  London  Catalogue,  contains 
about  two  hundred  and  fifty-names,  fifty  of  which  are  deno- 
minated American  Peaches.  Several  attempts  have  been 
made  to  class  the  varieties  of  Peaches  and  Nectarines  by  the 
leaf  and  flower,  as  well  as  the  fruit.  Mr.  Robertson,  a  nur- 
seryman at  Kilkenny,  has  founded  his  arrangement  on  the 
glands  of  the  leaves  ;  and  Mr.  George  Lindley,  of  London, 
has,  in  a  peculiarly  distinct  manner,  arranged  no  fewer  than 
one  hundred  and  fifty-five  sorts  of  Peaches  and  Nectarines 
in  well-defined  divisions  and  sections.  There  are  various 
instances  on  record,  (Hort.  Trans,  vol.  i.  p.  103,)  of  both 
fruits  growing  on  the  same  tree,  even  on  the  same  branch ; 
and  one  case  has  occurred  of  a  single  fruit  partaking  of  the 
nature  of  both.  The  French  consider  them  as  one  fruit, 
arranging  them  in  four  divisions ;  the  Pcches,  or  freestone 
Peaches  ;  the  Peches  lisses,  or  freestone  Nectarines,  or  free- 
stone Peaches ;  the  Pavies,  or  clingstone  Peaches ;  and  the 
Brognons,  or  Nectarines,  or  clingstone  smooth  Peaches. 

Although  this  fruit  will  thrive  in  any  sweet,  pulverized 
soil  that  is  properly  prepared,  a  rich  sandy  loam  is  the  most 
suitable.  Next  to  the  selection  and  preparation  of  a  suitable 
soil,  a  choice  of  good  healthy  trees  is  of  the  utmost  import- 
ance. The  seed  for  stocks  should  be  selected  from  the 
vigorous  growing  young,  or  middle-aged  healthy  trees ;  and 
the  buds  should  be  taken  from  some  of  the  choicest  fruit- 


PRACH.  99 

bearing  trees  that  can  be  found.  Let  the  stocks  be  fairly 
tested  before  they  are  budded,  and  if  any  infection  exist  in 
the  stocks,  or  in  the  vicinity  of  where  the  choice  of  buds 
may  fall,  reject  them  if  you  wish  to  rear  a  healthy  progeny; 
as  more  depends  upon  these  particular  points  than  many  are 
aware  of. 

In  this  country,  the  Peach  is  generally  budded  on  stocks 
of  its  own  kind  ;  but  in  England  it  is  often  budded  on 
damask  Plum  stocks,  and  some  of  the  more  delicate  sorts 
on  Apricot  stocks,  or  old  Apricot  trees  cut  down;  or  on 
seedling  Peaches,  Almonds,  or  Nectarines.  (See  article 
Nectarine.)  Cobbett  says,  "  There  are  thousands  of  Peach 
trees  in  England  and  France  that  are  fifty  years  old,  and 
that  are  still  in  vigorous  fruitfulness."  He  attributes  the 
swift  decay  of  the  Peach  tree  here  to  their  being  grafted  on 
stocks  of  their  kind. 

Mr.  Michael  Floy,  of  the  Harlasm  Nursery,  in  a  note, 
page  364  of  the  American  edition  of  Lindley's  Guide  to  the 
Orchard  and  Fruit  Garden,  edited  by  him,  makes  the  follow- 
ing observations  on  this  subject,  which  he  says  are  the  result 
of  thirty  years'  experience  as  a  nurseryman  in  the  vicinity 
of  New- York : 

"  In  this  country  Peaches  are  generally  budded  on  Peach 
stocks.  Their  growth  is  very  rapid,  and  they  will  form  a 
tree  large  enough  to  transplant  from  the  nursery,  the  first 
and  second  year  after  budding;  but  notwithstanding  the 
rapid  growth  of  our  Peaches,  and  their  coming  to  maturity 
so  early,  with  but  little  care  and  trouble,  it  must  at  the  same 
time  be  admitted  that  they  too  often  come  to  decay  with 
almost  the  same  celerity.  A  question  here  will  naturally 
arise  on  this  subject,  what  can  be  done  to  remedy  this  ?  I 
answer, /rs/,  I  think  the  Peach  stock  is  defective;  it  is  not 
sufficiently  strong  and  lasting  to  make  a  permanent  tree ; 
the  roots  are  soft  and  delicate,  very  liable  to  rot  in  cold 
heavy  ground,  particularly  if  suffered  to  stand  in  a  sod,  or 
where  the  ground  is  not  kept  clean,  dry,  and  manured  every 


100  PEACH. 

season.  Secondly.  Supposing  that  the  trees  are  planted  in 
a  warm  free  soil,  (which  is  the  proper  soil  for  the  Peach,) 
they  are  liable  to  the  attacks  of  the  worm,  which  eats  into 
their  roots,  and  barks  the  trees  all  round,  until  they  com- 
pletely destroy  them.  No  better  method  of  destroying  these 
worms  has  been  discovered,  than  simply  digging  round  the 
trees,  and  examining  the  infested  plants,  and  where  gum  is 
seen  oozing  out,  there  the  worm  may  be  generally  found  and 
destroyed. 

♦'  I  think  an  effectual  remedy  against  this  intruder  may  be 
found,  by  budding  Peaches  and  Nectarines  on  the  common 
bitter  Almond  Stock.  The  worm  does  not  like  this  stock. 
Peaches  will  take  on  it,  and  grow  nearly  as  free  as  on  the 
common  Peach  stock.  Thirdbj.  The  Peach  stock  causes 
the  Peaches  and  Nectaiines  to  grow  too  rapidly,  making 
very  strong  shoots,  these  producing  secondary  or  lateral 
shoots ;  and  the  fruit  of  the  following  summer  is  produced 
on  the  top  of  these  lateral  shoots,  instead  of  being  produced 
on  the  principal  or  first  shoots ;  this  causes  naked  wood  at 
the  bottom,  and  a  straggling,  unsightly  tree,  whose  branches 
being  heavy  at  the  top  wdth  the  fruit,  are  broken  down  by 
high  winds.  Fourthly.  In  addition  to  all  this,  the  ti-ees  are 
of  late  yeais  subject  to  what  has  been  deemed  a  disease 
called  the  yellows,  from  the  circumstance  of  the  trees  having 
a  yellow  and  sickly  appearance.  Much  curious  philosophy 
has  been  spent  on  this  subject  without  arriving  at  any  satis- 
factory conclusion." 

Mr.  Floy,  after  discovering  that  the  Almond  stock  is 
susceptible  of  injury  from  our  Northern  winters  in  extreme 
cold  weather,  farther  recommends  the  Plum  stock  in  cold 
latitudes,  and  the  Almond  for  our  Southern  States.  Hear 
him : 

"  The  Plum  stock  is  undoubtedly  the  best  for  Peaches 
and  Nectarines  in  the  Northern  and  Eastern  States,  but 
especially  for  open  dwarfs  or  espaliers,  for  which  I  give  the 
following  reasons;     First.   The  Plum   stock  prevents  the 


PEACH.  101 

too  rapid  growth  of  the  shoots,  and  causes  the  principals  to 
bear  the  fruit  the  following  season,  instead  of  producing 
lateral  shoots  the  same  season,  and  causing  ths  tree  to  be 
more  dwarf;  the  branches  strong  and  fruitful  to  the  bottom 
of  the  shoot,  thereby  having  more  fruit  in  a  smaller  compass. 
Secondly,  It  makes  harder  and  less  pithy  wood,  and  enables 
it  the  better  to  withstand  the  cold ;  and  this  may  be  easily 
proved  by  cutting  the  branches  of  each :  the  shoot  on  the 
Plum  stock  will  be  twice  as  hard  and  firm  as  the  one  on  the 
Peach  stock ;  but.  Thirdly,  and  the  most  important  reason 
is,  that  the  Plum  ceases  to  send  up  its  sap  early  in  autumn, 
causing  the  Peach  to  perfect  its  wood  before  the  cold  weather 
sets  in." 

As  the  failure  of  this  fruit  of  late  years  has  elicited  con- 
siderable discussion  and  observation,  which  increases  in 
interest  annually,  I  will  offer  an  exposition  of  my  views  on 
the  subject,  by  a  comparison  between  vegetalde  and  animal 
matter,  which  I  humbly  conceive  bear  a  striking  analogy  to 
each  other.  If  the  reader  should  deem  my  arguments  vision- 
ary, or  speculative,  I  would  remind  him  that  the  grave  im- 
portance of  the  subject  fully  justifies  this  or  any  othei 
attempt  at  elucidation. 

Having,  in  article  Nectarine,  shown  the  error  of  deep 
planting  all  descriptions  of  trees  and  plants,  I  would  here 
observe,  that  a  tree  brought  into  a  state  of  disease,  by  which 
the  circulation  of  its  nutrimental  juices  is  impeded,  and  its 
bark  injured,  is  very  similarly  situated  to  a  timber  post  in- 
serted in  the  soil ;  which  every  one  knows  will  rot  between 
earth  and  air,  however  sound  its  other  parts  may  be. 

In  venturing  a  comparison  between  vegetable  and  animal 
matter,  I  Avould  first  refer  the  reader  to  article  Chestnut, 
where  I  have  shown  that  a  chestnut  tree  has  been  known  to 
live  over  a  thousand  years  ;  and  that  its  timber,  cut  in  proper 
season,  is  supposed  to  be  in  durability  commensurate  with 
the  age  of  the  growing  tree.  It  is  also  recorded  in  history, 
that  animal  subjects  preserved  on  the  Egyptian  principle, 

9* 


102  PEACH. 

have  been  known  to  keep  as  long  as  the  most  durable  tim» 
ber;  while  daily  experience  shows,  that  corrupt  animal  and 
vegetable  substances,  not  only  become  a  prey  to  the  most 
noxious  insects  and  reptiles,  but  will  geneiate  them  in  incal- 
culable numbers. 

It  is  also  evident,  that  a  tree  deprived  of  its  functions  or 
means  of  growing  luxuriantly,  ia  in  a  similar  situation  to  a 
diseased  animal.  If  disease  be  not  checked  before  the 
juices  of  the  tree  become  putrid,  it  will  not  only  die,  but  will 
contaminate  the  earth  in  which  it  is  planted,  to  the  destruc- 
tion of  its  neighbouring  inmates  of  the  garden  or  field.  All 
experienced  nurserymen  admit  this  to  be  the  case  with  dis- 
eased Peach  trees,  and  some  have  actually  abandoned  their 
Peach  orchards,  and  chosen  fresh  ground  for  new  planta- 
tions. 

It  is  precisely  the  same  with  smaller  vegetable  plants.  A 
diseased  Cabbage,  for  instance,  by  its  excremental  and  cor- 
rupt juices  being  spent  in  the  ground,  will  render  the  culti- 
vation of  the  same  or  allied  species  a  casualty ;  and  daily 
observation  teacheth,  that  young  and  thrifty  plants  often 
fall  a  prey  to  worms  and  reptiles  which  were  generated  by 
a  previous  crop. 

It  is,  moreover,  evident  that  all  those  enemies  of  the  veget- 
able family  feed  on  the  same  descriptions  of  vegetable  mat- 
ter which  first  generated  them ;  hence  the  Peach  insects 
feed  on  its  fruit  in  embryo,  as  well  as  in  a  state  at,  and  even 
beyond,  perfection ;  the  Cabbage  worms  prey  on  plants  of 
the  same  genera  or  species ;  and  I  have  no  doubt  but  the 
cotton  worms  prefer  the  same  description  of  vegetable  mat- 
ter which  gave  them  birth,  and  that  when  these  insects  and 
reptiles  cannot  obtain  the  paits  which  are  the  most  palatable 
to  them,  or  congenial  to  their  nature,  they  will  feed  upon 
diseased  trees,  plants,  or  any  other  matter  which  contain 
similar  juices  or  nutriment.  I  again  repeat,  that  the  best 
security  against  their  depredations  is  health  and  soundness. 
A  good  sound  healthy  tree,  planted  and  cultivated  upon  cor- 


PEACH.  103 

rect  principles,  may  be  justly  considered  as  invulnerable  to 
the  attacks  of  insects  and  reptiles,  as  any  species  of  healthy 
animal  creatute  in  existence. 

As  I  have  been  more  familiar  with  the  cultivation  of  veget- 
ables than  fruits,  I  would  state  farther  my  views  relative  to 
the  Cabbage  tribe.  On  New-York  Island,  in  the  vicinity  of 
the  city,  it  is  customary  with  gardeners  to  cut  their  Cabbages 
gradually  as  tliey  are  required  for  market,  and  often  to  leave 
their  rcwts  standing;  these  by  some  are  ploughed  under, 
where  they  not  only  feed,  but  generate  their  peculiar  species 
of  insects.  Some  gardeners  take  their  roots  and  leaves  to 
the  cattle  yard  or  dung  heap,  and  return  them  back  to  the 
garden  the  ensuing  season  in  the  shape  of  manure.  As  a 
consequence  of  such  practice,  good  Cabbages  are  very  sel- 
dom obtained,  even  after  a  routine  of  other  crops,  for  two  or 
three  years. 

"With  a  view  to  illustrate  the  evil  of  deep  planting,  I  would 
observe  farther,  that  when  Cabbage  plants  are  transplanted 
in  proper  season  and  on  good  fresh  soil,  they  generally  prove 
uniformly  good  ;  whereas,  if  it  should  happen,  as  it  some- 
time does  for  want  of  suitable  weather,  that  the  plants  can- 
not be  transplanted  until  they  get  crooked  and  overgrown, 
so  as  to  require  d-eep  planting  to  support  them  in  the  soil, 
such  plants,  like  diseased  Peach  trees,  decay  first  in  the 
bark,  between  earth  and  air,  and  then,  from  being  deprived 
of  a  natural  circulation  of  the  vegetable  juices,  die,  and  dis- 
charge their  putrid  matter  in  the  earth,  to  tlie  destruction  of 
such  other  plants  as  may  be  inserted  in  their  stead.  I  have 
frequently  known  a  land  of  Cabbage  plants  filled  up  half  a 
dozen  times,  and  the  crop  at  last  scarcely  worth  gathering, 
whereas,  could  the  plants  have  been  set  out  while  dwarfish, 
and  inserted  their  proper  depth  in  the  gn.und,  the  cultivator 
would  have  been  rewarded  a  hundred  fold. 

I  dislike  tmdoloi^y,  but  cannot  avoid  repeating  my  humble 
opinion,  that  deep  planting  and  injudicious  culture  are  the 
causes  of  most  of  the  diseases  and  failures  of  fruit  trees  j  and 


104  PEACH. 

ill  this  way  I  account  for  Peaches  being  less  plentiful  than 
they  were  when  left  almost  to  nature,  which  was  the  case,  I 
am  informed,  in  the  beginning  of  the  present  century.  That 
this  malpractice  in  horticulture  is  very  general,  the  most 
superficial  observer  may  discover,  by  comparing  the  thrifty 
growth  of  those  trees  scattered  by  nature  in  our  highways 
and  byways  with  many  of  those  aided  by  the  art  of  man.  If 
any  of  my,  readers  should  require  proof  of  my  assertions,  I 
can  show  them  from  the  window  of  the  room  where  this 
article  is  being  wiitten,  scores  of  living,  or  rather  dying  evi- 
dences of  the  evil  of  deep  planting. 

All  the  varieties  of  the  Peach  produce  their  fruit  upon  the 
young  wood  of  a  year  old,  the  blossom  buds  rising  immedi- 
ately from  the  eyes  of  the  shoots.  The  same  shoots  seldom 
bear  after  the  first  year,  except  on  some  casual  small  spur§ 
on  the  two  years'  wood,  which  is  not  to  be  counted  upon. 
Hence  the  trees  are  to  be  pruned  as  bearing  entirely  on  the 
shoots  of  the  preceding  year,  and  a  full  supply  of  regular 
grown  shoots  must  be  retained  for  successional  bearers.  Cut 
out  the  redundant  shoots,  and  all  decayed  and  dead  wood, 
and  reduce  some  of  the  former  bearers,  cutting  the  most 
naked  quite  away. 

A  Peach  Orchard  may  be  planted  at  any  time  after  the 
bud  is  established,  until  the  trees  are  three  or  four  years  old, 
which  may  be  placed  from  fifteen  to  twenty  feet  from  each 
other,  or  from  any  other  spreading  trees.  The  dwarf  kinds 
may  be  introduced  into  the  kitchen  garden,  and  trained 
against  fences,  as  directed  for  the  Apricot,  or  as  espaliers, 
or  dwarf  standards. 


DESCRIPTIVE    LIST    OF    PEACHES.  105 

SELECT  DESCRIPTIVE  LIST  OF  PEACHES. 

FREESTONE    PEACHES. 

AsTOH.  An  excellent  variety,  originating  in  the  city  of  New-York  ;  the 
fruit  is  above  medium  size;  sicin  pale  yellow,  with  red  cheek  ;  flesh  melt- 
ing and  pleasant  flavoured  ;  juice  sweet  and  plentiful ;  ripe  the  latter  end 
of  August  and  early  in  September. 

Bkers's  Ked  Rarrripe,  Middltto'um  late  Red  Rareripe-  Fruit  very 
large,  of  oblong  shape  ;  skin  nearly  white,  with  a  red  cheek  ;  flesh  firm, 
juicy,  and  high  flavoured.  This  variety  originated  with  Joseph  Beers,  of 
Middletown,  New-Jersey  ;  it  ripens  there  from  the  middle  to  the  end  of 
September,  and  is  represented  as  a  good  market  fruit. 

Belle  de  Vitrv,  Admirable  Tardive,  Bellis,  Beatify  of  Vifry,  A  large 
fruit,  of  fine  red  colour  next  the  sun,  on  the  opposite  side  a  yellowish 
white;  flesh  white,  stained  with  red  at  the  stone  ;  firm,  juicy,  sweet, 
vinous  and  excellent ;  ripe  early  in  September. 

Bellegrade,  Galande,  Violette  Hative,  Noire  de  Montreuil.  Smooth 
Leaved  Royal  George  of  some.  The  tree  is  vigorous  and  productive  ; 
fruit  above  medium  size,  globular  ;  skin  greenish  yellow,  and  on  the  sunny 
side  rich  deep  red,  with  dark  purple  streaks  ;  flesh  pale  yellow,  very  melt- 
ing, saccharine  and  juicy;  a  first  rate  fruit,  early  in  September. 

Buonaparte.  A  fine  early  variety,  introduced  by  Joseph  Buonaparte, 
and  recommended  by  Caleb  R.  Smith,  of  Burlington,  New-Jersey,  as  being 
the  best  market  fruit  known  at  that  place  ;  its  colour  is  red,  mottled  with 
yellow;  flesh  melting  ;  juice  sweet  and  delicious,  in  August. 

Brevoort's  Seedt  ing  Melter,  Brevoori's  Morris.  A  superior  Peach, 
raised  by  Henry  Brevoort,  Esq.,  of  New-York  ;  skin  of  a  dingy  white 
colour,  with  red  cheek;  flesh  white,  firm,  rich,  and  sugary  ;  ripe  by  the 
middle  of  August. 

Columbia.  Fruit  of  medium  size;  skin  rough  and  thin:  colour  dull 
red  ;  flesh  yellow,  fibrous,  similar  to  a  pineapple,  juicy  and  rich.  It  is 
supposed  that  this  Peach  originated  with  Mr.  Cox.  It  is  a  singular  variety. 
Cooledce's  Favourite,  Cooledge's  early  Red  Rareripe.  A  large  hand- 
some globular  fruit ;  skin  red,  tinged  with  crimson  ;  flesh  very  melting, 
juicy,  and  of  delicious  flavour,  in  August.  The  tree  is  vigorous  and  very 
productive. 

Crawford's  Early  Melocoton,  Early  Crawford.  Fruit  large,  oblong; 
skin  yellow  and  red;  flesh  yellow,  juicy,  sweet,  with  an  agreeable  acidity. 
It  originated  with  Mr.  Crawford,  Middletown,  New-Jersey.  The  tree  is  a 
great  bearer,  and  the  fruit  is  considered  one  of  the  most  marketable  varie- 
ties, in  August  and  September. 

Crawford's  Late  Malacatune.  Fruit  very  large,  round ;  skin  yel- 
low and  red  ;  flesh  yellow,  sweet,  juicy,  and  excellent.  It  is  highly  esti- 
mated at  Middletown  for  its  productiveness  and  adaptation  for  market ;  in 
September  and  October. 

Double    Montagne,  Sion,  Eearhj  Double  Mountain,  Montauban.     A 
beautiful  and  excellent  Peach  of  middle  size  ;  skin  greenish  white,  but  soft 
red,  marbled  with   a  deeper  red  next  the  sun  ;  flesh  white  and   melting 
juice  plentiful  and  highly  tlavouied  ;  ripe  in  August. 


106  DESCRIPTIVE    LIST    OF    PEACHES. 

Early  Orange,  Orange  Freestone,  Yellow  Rareripe,  Yellow  Malacaton, 
Golden  Rareripe,  Early  Yellow.  Fruit  under  a  medium  size,  inclining  to 
the  oval  shape,  apex  full,  with  a  small  tip  ;  skin  greenish  yellow  ;  flesh  a 
fine  yellow  ;  juice  rich  and  sweet,  but  not  plentiful ;  ripe  in  August  and 
September.  Tliere  are  several  varieties  under  the  same  name,  some  of 
which  are  inferior  to  the  true  Orange  Peach. 

Early  Royal  George.  Red  Magdalen  of  Prince.  A  superior  variety, 
of  medium  size,  and  rather  globular  form  ;  skin  yellow,  with  rod  cheek; 
flesh  melting  and  delicious ;  in  August.  There  are  several  varieties  culti- 
vated under  this  name,  dilTerently  described. 

Eastburn's  Choice.  Fruit  large,  nearly  round  ;  skin  pale  yellow,  with 
a  red  blush  ;  flesh  yellowish  white  ;  juice  exceedingly  pleasant  and  spright- 
ly ;  in  September  and  October.  The  tree  is  represented  as  hardy,  luxuri- 
ant and  vigorous,  by  the  Editor  of  HoCfy's  Orchardists'  Companion  of 
Philadelphia,  from  whence  this  description  is  taken. 

Emperor  of  Russia,  Serrated  Leaf,  Neiv  Cut-Leaved  Unique.  The 
fruit  of  this  species  is  deeply  cleft,  one  half  of  it  projecting  considerably 
beyond  the  other;  the  skin  is  downy,  of  a  brownish  yellow  and  red  colour; 
flesh  melting  ;  juice  sweet  and  delicious;  towards  the  end  of  August.  This 
sort  was  found  by  Mr.  Floy,  in  New-Jersey,  1809,  and  all  the  stones  of  this 
fruit  are  said  to  produce  plants  with  jagged  leaves. 

George  the  Fourth.  An  excellent  Peach,  of  medium  size  and  globu- 
lar shape  ;  of  pale  yellow  colour  in  the  shade,  and  dark  red  next  the  sun ; 
flesh  yellow,  but  red  at  the  stone,  from  which  it  separates  ;  a  fruit  of  very 
superior  flavour  when  at  maturity,  which  is  early  in  September.  It  origin- 
ated in  the  garden  of  Mr.  Gill,  Broad-street,  New-York. 

Green  Nutmeg,  Early  Anne,  Avant  Blanche.  This  early  variety  is 
said  to  have  originated  in  Berkshire,  England.  The  fruit  is  small ;  its 
colour  yellowish  green  ;  its  pulp  melting,  juicy,  of  very  pleasant  flavour, 
and  ripens  in  July  and  August.  Murray's  Early  Anne  is  a  variety  raised 
from  the  seed  of  this.     It  is  esteemed  for  its  early  maturity. 

Gkosse  Mignonne,  Veloutee  de  Merlet,  Grimtvood^s  Royal  George,  Large 
Fre^'cfi  Mig7}onne.  Vineuse,  according  to  Lindley  ;  and  the  following  syno- 
nymes  are  added  by  Kenrick  :  Belle  Beaute,  S moot fi- leaved  Royal  George, 
Royal  Smtverain,  Pourpre  de  Normandie,  Royal  Kensington,  Early  Vine- 
yard, Transparent,  and  Morrises  Red  Rareripe.  One  of  the  most  beautiful 
and  delicious  varieties  in  cultivation.  Fruit  large,  depressed,  hollow  at  the 
summit,  with  a  deepish  sature  ;  skin  rather  downy,  of  rich  deep  red,  thickly 
mottled  on  a  yellowish  ground ;  flesh  pale  yellow,  rayed  with  red  at  the 
stone ;  melting,  juicy,  and  of  a  rich  vinous  flavour,  when  in  perfection, 
which  is  early  in  September. 

Heath  Freestone,  Kenricli's  Heath.  This  variety  was  first  obtained 
from  the  late  General  Heath,  of  Roxbury,  near  Boston.  The  fruit  is  very 
large,  oblong  and  beautiful,  frequently  weighing  half  a  pound  ;  colour  pale 
yellowish  green,  with  crimson  or  violet  next  the  sun ;  its  flesh  is 
melting,  juicy,  rich,  vinous,  and  agreeably  acid  ;  ripens  in  September  and 
October. 

Hoffman's  Pound,  Morrison's  Pound,  Hoffman's  Favourite.  This 
fruit  is  by  some  called  the  Morrissania,  from  its  having  been  first  obtained 
by  Mr.  Floy  from  Governeur  Morris  ;  but  it  originated  with  Martin  HofT- 
man,  Esq.,  of  New-York.     The  fruit  is  very  large ;  skin  brownish  white 


DESCRIPTIVE    LIST    OF    PEACHES.  107 

and  red  ;  flesh  yellow,  firm,  very  juicy  and  delicious,  parting  from  the 
stone;  greatly  esteeemed  from  its  ripening  late  in  September  and  October. 
Late  Adjiikable,  Ruijale,  Royal,  Buurdine.  Tetun  dt  Venus  of  Prince 
and  Downing.  Fruit  large,  roundish,  inclining  to  oblong;  sature  deeply 
impressed  along  one  side,  having  the  flesli  swelling  boldly  and  equally  on 
both  sides,  with  a  slight  impression  on  the  summit ;  skin  downy,  of  pale 
g-reen  colour,  streaked  with  dull  tawny  red  ;  flesh  white,  delicate,  melting, 
juicy  and  high  flavoured  ;  a  magnificent  Peach,  ripening  in  September. 

Malta,  Pecht  Mulfe,  Belle  de  Paris, Malfe  de  Normundie,  Italian  Peach. 
Fruit  above  the  medium  size  ;  colour  pale  yellowish  green,  marbled  with 
purplish  red;  flesh  yellow,  juicy,  rich,  vinous,  and  of  superior  flavour; 
ripens  at  the  end  of  August. 

Madeleink  de  Courson,  Madeleine  Rouge,  Rouge  Paysanne,  Red 
Magdalm.  Royal  George,  and  New  Royal  Charlolte  of  some  collections. 
An  excellent  fruit,  of  large  size ;  colour  yellow  and  red ;  ripens  at  the  end 
of  August  ;  flesh  firm,  white,  but  red  at  the  stone ;  sugary  and  rich. 

MoKSTRous  LE3I0N,  Largest  Lemon.  This  variety  was  first  discovered 
in  the  garden  of  Mr.  Tiebout,  now  Union  Place  ;  the  fruit  is  of  the  largest 
size,  and  in  the  gardens  of  two  persons  in  New-York,  has  weighed  seven- 
teen ounces,  as  slated  by  Mr.  Prince,  who  says  that  the  tree  requires  a 
sheltered  situation,  and  that  the  fruit  is  late  in  ripening  ;  October. 

MoRKis's  Red  Freestone,  Red  Rareripe.  Grosse  Mignonne,  and  Royal 
Kensington  according  to  Prince.  Fruit  nearly  round,  of  large  size,  apex 
a  little  sunken  ;  skin  greenish  yellow,  with  red  cheek  ;  flesh  delicious  and 
melting  ;  a  first  rate  variety  ;  ripe  toward  the  end  of  August. 

Morris's  White  Freestone,  White  Rareripe,  Luscious  White  Rare- 
ripe, Philadelphia  Freestone.  Lady  Ann  Stewart  of  Downing  and  Prince. 
Fruit  large,  and  inclining  to  the  oval  form,  sature  even,  but  not  deep  ; 
apex  a  little  sunken  ;  skin  white  or  rather  yellowish  ;  flesh  white,  juicy, 
rich  and  sweet ;  ripe  in  September. 

Nexi.'s  Early  Purple,  Early  Purple  of  Miller,  Johnson's  Purple 
Auant.  Padley's  Early  Purple,  Veritable  Pourpree  Hative,  Pec/ie  dii  Vin. 
One  of  the  most  beautiful  of  Peaches,  of  medium  size  ;  skin  yellow,  but 
on  the  sunny  side  of  a  fine  deep  red  and  purplish  colour ;  it  ripens  by 
the  middle,  of  August ;  flesh  melting,  juicy,  with  a  rich  vinous  flavour  ;  an 
excellent  fruit. 

New  Royal  Charlotte,  Queen  Charlotte,  New  Early  Purple,  Kew 
Early  Purple.  A  delicious  Peach,  rather  above  medium  size;  skin  pale 
greenish  white,  with  deep  red  next  the  sun  ;  flesh  greenish  white,  rich  and 
agreeable  ;  ripe  in  August. 

Noblesse,  Mellish's  Favourite.  Vanguard  of  Prince  and  Winter.  The 
tree  is  of  a  vigorous  growth,  and  very  productive ;  fruit  large,  somewhat 
oval,  of  a  pale  red  colour,  marbled  with  diflferent  shades ;  pulp  juicy,  rich, 
and  melting  when  at  maturity,  which  is  in  August  and  September. 

President.  This  variety  originated  at  Bedford,  on  Long  Island.  It 
is  a  rich,  melting,  juicy  fruit,  of  large  size,  roundish,  with  a  shallow  sature; 
skin  very  downy,  dull  red  next  the  sun,  pale  yellowish  green  in  the 
shade  ;  the  surface  covered  with  small  red  dots  ;  a  first  rate  Peach ;  ripe  in 
September. 

.    Prince's  Late  Yellow  Freestone.     A  beautiful  fruit,  of  a  greenish 
yellow  colour,  tinged  with  red  ;  flesh  firm  and  rich.    A  partially  ripe  sped- 


108  DESCRIPTIVE    LIST    OF    PEACHES. 

men  of  this  variety  was  exhibited  by  Mr.  Prince  in  the  Horticultural  room 
of  the  American  Institute,  October  24th,  1S43. 

Rareripe  Yellow,  Yellow  and  Red  Rareripe,  Red  Velvet,  Large  Yellow 
Nutmeg.  Marie  Antoinette  (if  some.  This  variety  is  large  ;  skin  yellow 
and  red ;  flesh  firm,  rich  and  delicious,  in  August  and  September.  It  is 
considered  one  of  the  most  valuable  market  varieties. 

E.ED  Chekk  Malacatune,  Hogg's  Malacotan,  Alberge  Incomparable, 
Lady  Gallatin,  Probyn  Peach.  The  fruit  of  this  variety  is  of  large  size 
and  oval  form  ;  its  colour  is  yellow,  with  a  red  cheek  on  the  sunny  side ; 
the  ilesh  is  also  yellow,  melting,  rich,  juicy,  and  luscious.  There  is  another 
variety  of  this  fruit,  which  originated  with  Mr.  Polls,  of  New-York,  said 
to  be  very  productive,  and  of  excellent  quality  ;  ripens  in  September. 

Robinson  Crusoe,  Early  Robinson  Crusoe,  Fruit  large,  round,  and 
handsome;  skin  pale  red,  marbled  with  dark  red;  flesh  juicy,  sweet,  and 
delicious ;  ripe  in  September.  The  stone  from  which  this  variety  was 
raised,  by  Dr.  Co-xe.  of  Philadelphia,  was  brought  by  Lieutenant  Coxe  from 
the  far-famed  Island  of  Alexander  Selkirk,  or  Robinson  Crusoe. 

Smock  Fkke,  Smock''s  Freestone.  An  esteemed  market  variety,  at  Mid- 
dletown,  New-Jersey,  where  it  originated,  in  Mr.  Smock's  orchard.  Some 
specimens  of  the  fruit  have  measured  twelve  inches  in  circumference.  It 
ia  of  oblong  shape  ;  skin  pale  yellow  and  dark  red  ;  flesh  juicy,  a  little  acid, 
and  very  palatable  ;  in  September  and  October. 

Sweet  Water,  Early  Sweet  Water.  American  Nutmeg  of  Prince, 
This  variety  is  said  to  have  originated  at  Flushing ;  its  form  is  round,  and 
its  colour  whitish  green,  with  a  red  blush  at  maturity,  which  is  early  in 
August.     The  flesh  is  very  tender,  melting,  rich  and  juicy. 

Teton  de  Vemus.  Royale  of  some  coUectiuns,  There  are  two  or  three 
varieties  bearing  this  name ;  the  fruit  of  the  best  variety  is  large,  globular, 
of  a  pale  yellowish  green  colour,  marbled  with  red  ;  flesh  greenish  yellow, 
but  red  at  the  stone ;  a  delicious  flavoured  Peach  ;  ripe  in  September. 

Van  Zandt's  Superd,  Waxen  Rareripe.  This  variety  originated  with 
Mr.  Van  Zandt,  of  Flushing  ;  its  form  is  oval ;  its  skin  smooth,  somewhat 
mottleii,  and  of  a  beautiful  waxen  appearance;  flesh  melting,  and  of  excel- 
lent flavour  ;  in  August  and  September. 

Walter's  Early.  Fruit  large  ;  colour  white  in  the  shade,  and  red 
next  the  sun  ;  flesh  red,  very  juicy  and  delicious.  It  is  considered  one  of 
the  most  productive  and  early  Peaches  cultivated  at  Middletown,  JS'ew- 
Jersey,  where  it  ripens  about  the  middle  of  August. 

Washington  Peach,  Boyce  Peach,  Washington  Freestone.  Early 
Rose  (f  some.  A  first  rate  Peach  ;  colour  a  pale  yellow  in  the  shade,  but 
pale  red  next  the  sun  ;  flesh  very  juicy  and  delicious  ;  ripens  toward  the 
end  of  August.  A  peculiar  trait  in  this  Peach,  is  its  rapid  growth  ;  it 
will,  while  ripening,  in  about  ten  days,  nearly  double  its  ordinary  size; 
weighing  over  half  a  pound. 

White  Blossom,  Willow  Peach,  Snow  Peach,  White  Blossomed  Incom- 
parable. This  variety  originated  on  Long  Island;  the  fruit  is  perfectly 
white,  of  an  oval  form  and  handsome  appearance ;  the  flesh  is  also  white, 
melting,  juicy  and  pleasant ;  it  is  much  used  for  preserves  when  not  over 
ripe,  and  is  at  full  maturity  in  September. 

Yellow  Admirable,  Abricntee,  Admirable  Jaune,  Peche  d'Orange, 
Grosst  Jaune,  Peche  de  Burai,  Sandalie,  Hermaphrodite,  Apricot  Peach. 


DESCUIPTIVE    LIST    OF    PEACHES.  109 

The  fruit  of  this  variety  is  large;  yellow  while  immature,  but  laved  v?ith 
red  when  ripe  ;  flesh  firm,  yellow  ;  flavour  similar  to  the  Apricot ;  ripe 
late  in  September. 

Yellow  Ai.bkrge,  Alberge  Jaune,  Peche  Jaune,  Roussanne,  Saint 
Laurent  Jatine.  Petite  Roussanne,  Rnnanna.  Purple  Alberge,  and  Gold 
Fleshed  af  Winter  <Sc  Co.  A  middle-sized  globular  fruit,  of  a  yellow  colour 
in  the  shade,  with  deep  red  next  the  sun ;  the  flesh  deep  yellow,  but  red 
next thestone;  melting,  juicy,  rich,  sweet, vinous  and  excellent;  in  August. 


PAVIES,    OR    CLINGSTONE    PEACHES. 

Blood  Cling,  Claret  Clingstone,  Red  Velvet.  Sanguinole  of  Prince. 
Bhod  Peach  of  Winter  iV  Co.  Fruit  large,  oblong,  of  a  dark  violet  or 
crimson  colour;  flesh  blood  red  to  the  stone;  highly  valuable  for  preserves, 
and  by  some  deemed  preferable  to  the  Quince.  The  tree  is  very  pro- 
ductive. 

Catharine.  Rodman'' s  Red,  and  Red  Catharine  of  some  catalogues. 
Fruit  large,  round,  variable;  colour  a  beautiful  red  next  the  sun,  marbled 
and  dashed  with  darker  shades  ;  pale  greenish  yellow  in  the  shade  ;  flesh 
white,  tinged  with  yellow  and  red;  juice  abundant,  and  of  very  rich  and 
sweet  flavour;  tree  a  good  bearer  ;  its  fruit  ripens  in  September. 

Congress  Clingstone.  Mr.  Manning  describes  this  as  a  fine  large 
round  Teach ;  skin  yellowish  white,  marbled  with  red ;  flesh  melting, 
juicy,  rich  and  excellent  ;  in  September. 

Early  Newington,  Smith's  Newington,  New-Yoric  Early  Newington. 
A  much  esteemed  fruit  ;  its  colour  in  the  shade  is  white,  but  next  the  sun 
red  ;  its  form  is  globular;  its  flesh  is  juicy,  rich  and  high  flavoured.  The 
tree  is  productive,  and  the  fruit  matures  in  August. 

Heath,  Heaih  Clingstone,  Lute  Heath,  Late  October.  Mr.  Prince 
says,  that  the  original  tree  of  this  variety  was  discovered  growing  wild  on 
the  farm  of  the  late  Judge  Willet,  of  Flushing,  and  took  its  name  from  its 
being  found  in  a  barren  field.  The  fruit  is  very  large,  of  oval  or  oblong 
form  ;  the  skin  is  downy,  nearly  all  white  ;  the  flesh  is  peculiarly  rich  and 
highly  flavoured,  tender,  melting  and  juicy.  There  is  another  variety 
mentioned  by  Mr.  Kenrick,  and  called  by  the  same  name,  said  to  have 
been  raised  from  a  stone  brought  by  Mr.  Heath  from  the  Mediterranean. 

HvsLop's  Ci  iiN'csTONE.  The  trees  of  ihis  variety  are  vigorous  and  pro- 
ductive.  The  fruit  is  large;  skin  a  yellowish  white,  with  red  cheek  ;  flesh 
melting,  juicy,  sweet,  vinous,  and  excellent;  it  ripens  in  October,  and  will 
keep  good  till  November. 

IncoMPARABLE,  Lotc  Admirable,  Pavie  Admirable.  The  fruit  of  this 
esteemed  variety  is  large  and  roundish  ;  the  skin  pale  yellow  colour,  shaded 
with  scarlet  or  deep  crimson  next  the  sun  ;  flesh  pale  yellow  ;  juice  sugary 
and  well  flavoured;  ripe  in  September. 

Lemon  Ci.ingstonk,  K-nnedi/s  Carolina,  Pineapple  Clingstone,  Hoyte's 
Lemon  Clingstone,  Lemon  Largest,  Lnrge  Yellow  Pineapple.  This  fruit 
is  of  large  size  and  oval  shape  ;  yellow  in  the  shade,  but  bright  red  next 
the  sun  ;  it  resembles  a  lemon,  having  a  nipple  at  the  apex  ;  some  have 
weighed  twelve  ounces;  its  flesh  is  firm,  and  is  at  maturity  in  New-York 
by  the  end  of  September. 

10 


110  DESCRIPTIVE    LIST    OF    PEACHES. 

Monstrous  Pavie  or  Pomponne,  Gros  Melecoton,  Gros  Perseque  Rouge, 
Pavie  Mdustreux,  Pavie  Curiiti.  Fruit  very  large,  roundish,  with  an  ob- 
tuse nipple  ;  skin  downy,  of  a  fine  red  and  greenish  white  colour  :  liesh 
while,  deep  red  at  the  stone,  juicy  and  vinous,  excellent  for  preserving ;  in 
September  and  October. 

New-York  White  Clingstone,  Williams's  New-York-  New  Newing- 
tvn  of  iorne  cutuloguets.  Fruit  large,  round,  with  a  pointed  apex  ;  skin 
white,  tinged  with  rose  ;  flesh  yellow,  melting  or  soft,  but  adhering  closely 
to  the  stone  ;  juice  very  plentiful,  sweet,  luscious,  and  high  flavoured  ; 
ripe  in  September. 

Old  MixoN  Clingstone.  Of  all  c'ingstone  Peaches,  this  is  considered 
the  most  delicious  ;  the  skin  is  yellow,  with  a  briaht  red  cheek,  marbled  ; 
sflegh  red  at  the  stone,  rich,  juicy,  sweet,  and  high  flavoured;  the  fruit 
ripens  gradually  in  September.  This  variety  is  cultivated  in  Massachu- 
setts, under  the  above  name ;  but  Mr.  Manning  says  that  he  has  cultivated 
this  fruit  with  the  Old  Xewington,  and  the  Catharine,  and  could  never  per- 
ceive any  dilVerence  in  the  fruit  or  trees. 

Old  Newington,  Newington-  The  fruit  of  this  variety  is  large,  rather 
globular,  of  a  fine  bright  rc<l  and  pale  yellow  colour,  marbled  with  dashes 
and  streaks  of  a  deeper  colour  ;  the  flesh  is  yellowish  white,  but  red  at  the 
etone  ;  also  juicy,  rich,  sweet  and  well  flavoured  ;  the  tree  is  very  pro- 
ductive ;  in  September. 

Orange  Cling,  Rmind  Alberge.  A  beautiful  native  Peach,  of  round 
shape,  and  bright  yellow  or  orange  colour ;  flesh  orange  colour,  aromatic, 
rich,  and  juicy.  The  tree  is  a  great  bearer,  and  from  the  beauty  of  its 
fruit,  which  ripens  in  September,  is  entitled  to  extensive  cultivation  for 
the  market. 

Pavie  Madeleine,  Pavie  Blanc,  Melecoton,  Myrecoton,  Merlicofon, 
Persique  a  Gros-Fniif  Blanc.  The  fruit  of  this  variety  is  of  medium 
size,  somewhat  broadly  globular  ;  skin  pale  yellowish  white  and  marbled 
red  ;  flesh  yellowish  white  to  the  stone;  juice  sugary  and  of  an  agreeable 
flavour  ;  towards  the  end  of  August  and  September. 

Prince's  Climax.  Fruit  very  large,  oval ;  skin  yellow,  mottled  with 
crimson  ;  flesh  yellow,  and  of  rich  pineapple  flavour  ;  ripe  in  September, 
and  good  in  October. 

Selbv's  Cling-  Fruit  large,  highly  esteemed  ;  skin  white  and  red  ; 
flesh  melting,  juicy,  and  of  peculiar  rich  flavour;  ripe  in  September  and 
October. 

Smock's  Clingstone.  Fruit  very  large,  oblong;  skin  yellow  and  red  ; 
flesh  juicy,  rich,  a  little  acid;  it  ripens  in  October  at  Middletown,  New- 
Jersey,  and  is  considered  one  of  the  most  productive  and  profitable  late 
market  fruits. 

Tippecanoe  Pkach,  Hero  of  Tippecanoe.  This  variety  originated 
with  George  Thomas,  of  Philadelphia,  and  the  fruit  has  been  much  ad- 
mired at  the  Pennsylvania  Horticultural  exhibitions  ;  it  is  of  large  size, 
of  a  beautiful  yellow  colour,  with  a  fine  red  blush  ;  flesh  yellow,  firm  and 
juicy,  possessing  an  agreeable  acidity  ;  it  ripens  late  in  September.  A 
faithful  description  of  this  fruit,  accompanied  by  a  beautiful  coloured 
plate,  taken  from  nature,  may  be  seen  in  HofTy's  Orchardists'  Companion, 
No.  4. 


PEAR.  Ill 

PEAR. 

PoiRiER.     Pyrtcs. 

The  Pear  tree,  in  its  wild  state,  is  thorny,  with  upright 
branches,  tending  to  the  pyramidal  form,  in  which  it  differs 
materially  from  the  Apple  tree.  The  twigs,  or  sprays,  hang 
down  ;  the  leaves  are  eliptical,  obtuse,  serrate  ;  the  flowers 
in  terminating,  villose  corymbs,  produced  from  wood  of  the 
preceding  year,  or  from  buds  gradually  formed  on  the  several 
years'  growth,  on  the  extremeties  of  very  short  protruding 
shoots,  technically  called  spurs.  It  is  found  in  a  wild  state 
in  England,  and  abundantly  in  France  and  Germany,  as 
well  as  in  other  parts  of  Europe,  not  excepting  Russia,,  as 
far  north  as  latitude  51.  It  grows  in  almost  any  soil.  The 
cultivated  tree  differs  from  the  Apple,  not  only  in  having  a 
tendency  to  the  pyramidal  form,  but  also  in  being  more  apt 
to  send  out  tap  roots ;  it  being,  as  a  seedling  plant,  longer  in 
coming  into  bearing ;  and  when  on  its  own  root,  or  grafted 
on  a  wild  Pear  stock,  much  longer  lived.  In  a  dry  soil,  it 
will  exist  for  centuries,  and  still  keep  its  health,  productive- 
ness, and  vigour.  The  Romans  had  thirty-six  varieties  in 
Pliny's  time  :  there  are  now  several  hundreds  in  the  French 
and  British  nurseries;  the  London  Horticultural  Catalogue 
contains  the  names  of  upward  of  six  hundred  varieties. 
Professor  Van  Mons,  of  Brussels,  and  M.  Duquessie,  of 
Mons,  fruited  about  eight  thousand  seedling  Pears,  from 
which  they  obtained  nearly  eight  hundred  sorts  worth  culti- 
vating, (Neil's  Hort.  Jour.)  The  varieties  are  divided  by 
the  French  into  different  classes  of  fruits,  which  are  desig- 
nated as  Beurrees,  Crevers,  Poirec,  &c. 

Criterion  of  a  good  Peah. — Dessert  Pears  are  charac- 
terized by  a  sugary,  aromatic  juice,  with  the  pulp  soft  and 
sub-liquid,  or  melting,  as  in  the  Beurrees,  or  Butter  Pears, 
or  of  a  firm  and  crisp  consistence,  or  breaking,  as  in  the 


112  PEAR. 

Winter  Bergamots.  Kitchen  Pears  should  be  of  a  large 
size,  Avith  the  flesh  fiim,  neither  breaking  nor  melting,  and 
rather  austere  than  sweet.  Perry  Pears  maybe  either  large 
or  small ;  but  the  more  austere  the  taste,  the  better  will  be 
the  liquor  J  excellent  perry  is  made  from  the  wild  Pear. 

Pear  trees  are  propagated  by  gfafting  in  the  spiing,  or 
budding  late  in  the  summer,  and  also  by  seed  taken  from 
the  best  sorts  for  the  purpose  of  obtaining  new  varieties.  In 
raising  Pear  stocks,  the  wild  Pear  is  preferred  in  Europe,  as 
being  calculated  to  produce  plants  more  hardy  and  durable 
than  the  cultivated  sorts ;  and  for  dwarfing  and  precocity, 
the  Quince  is  preferred. 

The  Pear  is  a  much  handsomer  upright  growing  tree 
than  the  Apple ;  more  durable,  and  its  wood  hard  and  valu- 
able for  the  turner  and  millwright ;  but  its  blossoms  being 
white,  are  less  showy  than  those  of  the  Apple. 

A  Pear  Orchard  may  be  planted  at  any  time  after  the 
trees  are  two  years'  old  from  the  graft ;  and  as  some  vaiie- 
ties  of  trees  from  young  stocks  will  not  come  into  full  bear- 
ing until  ten  or  twelve  years  old,  they  will  bear  removing 
with  care  at  any  time  within  that  period.  They  may  be 
planted  at  from  twenty  to  thirty-five  feet  distance  from  each 
other,  according  to  the  nature  of  the  tree.  The  dwarf  vari- 
eties may  be  planted  in  the  kitchen  garden,  and  trained 
either  as  espaliers  or  dwarf  standards. 

Standard  Pear  trees  will  require  but  little  pruning  after 
the  heads  are  once  formed  ;  in  doing  which,  the  branches 
should  be  permitted  to  extend  on  all  sides  freely.  Several 
years  may  elapse  before  any  cross-placed,  very  irregular,  or 
crowded  branches,  require  pruning ;  yet  there  are  some 
kinds  whose  form  of  growth  lesembles  the  Apple ;  such  will 
need  frequent  pruning.  "  The  Pear  tree,"  Mr.  Phail  says, 
"  does  not  produce  blossoms  on  the  former  year's  w^ood,  as 
several  other  sorts  of  trees  do.  Its  blossom  buds  are  formed 
upon  spurs  growing  out  of  wood  over  one  year  old,  and, 
consequently,  projecting  spurs  all  over  the  tree  must  be  left 


PEAR.  113 

for  that  purpose."  In  some  Pears,  Knight  observes,  "  the 
fruit  grows  only  on  the  inside  of  those  branches  which  are 
exposed  to  the  sun  and  air ;  in  others  it  occupies  every  part 
of  the  tree."  Withering  says,  that "  the  French  make  perry, 
or  poire,  from  the  fermented  juice  of  the  Pear,  which  is 
Uttle  inferior  to  wine ;  and  that  even  the  bad  eating  kinds, 
pared  and  dried  in  an  oven,  will  keep  several  years  with  or 
without  sugar. 

Before  I  introduce  the  descriptive  list  of  Pears,  it  may  be 
necessary  to  inform  my  readers  that  a  controversy  has  lately 
existed  among  justly  celebrated  pomologists  and  nursery- 
men, with  regard  to  some  of  the  old  varieties  of  I'ears  and 
other  fruits;  the  consequence  of  which  has  been,  that  several 
cultivators  are  for  an  indiscriminate  rejection  of  all  the  oldest 
varieties,  while  others  contend  that  in  some  districts  the  old 
fruits  are  as  good  as  they  were  ever  known  to  be,  and  con- 
sequently deserving  of  cultivation  as  heretofore.  It  is  recor- 
ded in  '  Loudon's  Encyclopoedia,'  that  the  Aulumn  Bcro-amol 
for  instance,  has  been  cultivated  and  highly  esteemed  in 
England  since  the  time  of  Julius  Csesar,  nearly  nineleeu  cen- 
turies. This  fact  is  my  apology  for  retaining  such  of  the  old 
varieties  of  the  different  fruits  in  my  descriptive  list,  as  have 
been  most  celebrated.  The  following  extracts  are  from  the 
catalogue  of  Messrs.  Winter  &  Co.,  proprietors  of  the  old 
Linnasan  Botanic  Garden  and  Nurseries,  Flushing,  Lono- 
Island : 

"  That  some  of  the  fine  old  varieties  of  the  Pear  have 
deteriorated  in  some  parts  of  the  country,  is  unquestionable; 
this  is  ascribed  to  various  causes;  first,  that  the  varieties 
have  run  out,  as  it  is  termed  ;  second,  to  the  use  of  diseased 
stocks,  or  scions  from  diseased,  or  aged,  or  unthrifty  trees, 
or  both ;  third,  to  the  deleterious  influence  of  the  salt  air, 
near  the  seaboard ;  fourth,  to  the  want  of  proper  attention 
to  soil  and  culture.  We  cannot  subscribe  to  the  soundness 
of  the  reason  first  assigned  ;  there  are  too  many  instances  of 
varieties  of  fruit  whose  origin  is  so  remote  that  it  cannot  be 

10* 


114  PEAR. 

traced,  still  continuing  in  full  vigour ;  and  the  kinds  which 
bave  deteriorated  in  some  sections  of  the  country,  still  main- 
tain their  celebrity  in  the  interior,  and  more  especially  in 
the  virgin  soil  c)f  the  west.  Which  of  the  other  causes  as- 
signed, has  tended  to  deteriorate  the  fine  kinds  alluded  to, 
we  will  not  undertake  to  determine;  one  or  more  of  them 
may  have  had  their  influence,  but  we  think  that  proper 
attention  to  propagation,  soil,  and  culture,  may  in  general, 
if  not  in  every  instance,  restore  the  valuable  old  varieties  to 
their  pristine  excellence ;  and  in  this  vicinity  there  is  deci- 
sive evidence  of  the  improvement  of  that  superior  old  variety 
the  White  Doyenne,  Saint  Michael,. or  Virgalieu." 

The  last  line  of  the  above  extract  leads  me  to  remark, 
that  so  celebrated  has  been  the  Pear  therein  alluded  to,  that 
it  has  been  cultivated  throughout  the  civilized  world  for 
centuries,  under  numberless  different  names.  In  '  Lindley's 
Guide  to  the  Orchard  and  Fruit  Garden,'  fifteen  synonymes 
are  added  to  the  general  head.  White  Doyenne  ;  some  of 
which  names  are  still  retained  in  the  catalogues  of  those 
who  profess  to  denounce  the  old  fruits  as  "  outcasts."  In 
fact,  the  various  catalogues  are  become  so  complicated  from 
the  above  causes,  that  I  have,  to  avoid  discrepancy,  occa- 
sionally adopted  some  of  the  names  as  synonymes,  of  what, 
to  me,  appeared  to  be  distinct  varieties ;  and  with  a  view  to 
lead  the  reader  to  judge  for  himself  in  such  cases,  I  have 
appended  the  names  of  the  different  nurserymen  to  the 
articles,  who  being  practical  men  of  good  judgment,  and 
integrity,  are  entitled  to  such  distinction.  These  remarks 
are  intended  to  apply,  not  only  to  Pears,  but  to  other  species 
of  fruit  in  the  various  descriptive  lists. 


DESCKIPTIVE    LIST    OF    PEARS.  IIS 

SELECT  DESCRIPTIVE  LIST  OF  PEARS. 

SUMMER   FRUIT. 

An  !  MoN  DiEu.  A  beautiful  Pear,  introduced  by  J.  B.  Mantel,  of 
Bloomingdale,  New-York.  It  is  depicted  in  '  Hoffy's  Orchardists'  Com- 
panion, by  a  handsome  coloured  plate,  accompanied  by  the  following  de- 
scription :  Size  medium  ;  form  handsome  ;  colour  rich  yellow,  with  bright 
red  cheek  ;  flesh  juicy;  flavour  sweet  and  perfumed.  Tree  vigorous  and 
productive,  the  fruit  growing  in  dusters  of  four  or  five  together. 

Amirk  Joannet,  Early  Sugar.  This  fruit  is  described  by  Mr.  Man- 
ning as  small,  of  oblong  form  ;  light  yellow  skin,  with  a  small  portion  of 
red  ;  flesh  white,  and  when  not  overripe  juicy  and  good.  It  ripens  in  July, 
about  ten  days  before  the  Petit  Muscat,  to  which  it  is  superior  in  flavour. 

Belle  de  Bruxklles,  Beauty  of  Brussels,  Cows  Complet.  A  large 
early  Pear  of  pyramidal  form;  skin  a  beautiful  clear  yellow,  with  red 
cheek  ;  flesh  white,  fine,  and  of  an  agreeable  flavour  ;  ripe  early  in  August. 

Beurrf.  d'Amanlis-  a  fine  early  Pear,  imported  from  France  by  J.  B. 
Mantel,  of  Bloomingdale,  New-York  ;  and  described  as  follows,  in  '  Hoffy's 
Orchardists'  Companion  :'  Size  large ;  form  large  bellied  ;  colour  green, 
changing  to  yellow,  with  a  fine  blush  when  fully  ripe,  and  russet  spots  ; 
flesh  melting,  juicy,  sweet  and  excellent ;  ripe  in  August  and  September. 
Tree  vigorous  and  productive. 

Bloodgood  Pear,  Early  Bnirre.  Fruit  large  ;  form  nearly  oval ;  skin 
a  dull  yellow,  covered  with  dark  russet  spots;  flesh  tender,  melting,  and 
pleasant.  Mr.  Manning  says,  '•  It  comes  early  into  bearing  and  produces 
abundant  crops  every  year  ;   in  August." 

Crawford,  Early  Crawford.  A  fine  early  Scotch  Pear,  of  medium 
size,  round  at  the  eye,  diminishing  at  the  stem  ;  the  skin  is  entirely  of  a 
light  yellow ;  the  flesh  juicy,  tender,  and  good.  Mr.  Manning  says  that 
the  tree  comes  into  bearing  young,  and  ripens  its  fruit  in  August. 

Dkarborn's  Seedling.  This  variety  originated  in  the  garden  of  the 
Hon.  H.  A.  S.  Dearborn,  of  Roxbury.  The  tree  is  of  vifjorous  growth; 
fruit  of  medium  size,  rounded  at  the  crown,  and  regularly  diminishes  in  a 
parabolic  manner  to  the  stalk  ;  the  skin  is  smooth,  thin,  green,  with  russet 
spots  ;  at  maturity  it  turns  to  a  delicate  yellow  ;  flesh  very  melting,  and 
of  the  finest  flavour  ;  in  August. 

Early  Rol'sselet,  Rousselet  hatif,  Early  Catharine.  This  is  a  small 
Pear,  with  a  hmg  curved  neck  ;  skin  yellow,  with  brownish  russet;  flesh 
very  fine,  rich,  and  high  flavoured;  in  August  and  September.  The  tree 
yields  immense  crops. 

Honey  Pear,  American  Honey.  This  Pear  in  size  and  shape  resem- 
bles the  Seckle;  the  skin  is  yellow,  with  a  large  portion  of  dull  red;  the 
flesh  sweet,  juicy  and  good.  Mr.  Manning  says  the  tree  bears  young,  and 
bids  fair  to  be  very  prolific. 

Jahgonklle,  Epargne,  Beau  Present,  Suint  Sampson,  Grosse  Cuisse 
Madame,  Saint  Lambert,  Poire  des  Tallies  des  Princes.  Fruit  rather 
large,  oblong,  of  a  pale  green  colour,  a  little  marked  with  red  ;  flesh  melt- 
iag,  juicy,  with  a  slightly  acid,  rich  and  agreeable  flavour.     It  ripens  early 


116  DESCRIPTIVE    LIS-i    OF    PEARS. 

in  August,  is  one  of  the  most  productive  of  all  Pears,  and  the  very  best  in 
its  season. 

Julienne  or  Coxe,  V Archiduc  d'Ete,  Summer  Beurre,  Summer  Doy- 
enne, Summer  Sf.  Michael,  of  Boston.  Bloodgood  Pear  of  some  col- 
lections- Fruit  medium  size,  smooth,  bri^^ht  yellow  at  maturity,  with  a 
faint  blush  next  the  sun;  form  rattier  ovate,  tapering  toward  the  stalk ; 
llesh  perfectly  melting,  rich,  and  juicy.  The  tree  bears  young,  and  most 
profusely,  and  matures  its  fruit  in  August  and  September. 

Madeleine,  Magdalene,  Citron  des  Carmes,  Early  Chaumnntelle.  This 
Pear  is  of  medium  size,  pale  yellow,  with  an  occasional  blush  next  the 
sun  ;  flesh  white,  meltinz.  perfumed.  A  fine  early  fruit,  ripening  in  July 
and  August.  Mr.  Manning  considers  this  a  very  good  Pear;  he  says  the 
tree  bears  well  every  year. 

RoussELET  DE  Rheims,  ilfwfc  Or  Spice  Pear.  Fruit  small,  pyramidal, 
P"eenish  yellow  at  maturity,  but  brown  red  next  the  sun,  with  russetty 
spots  ;  flesh  half  beurre.  fine,  very  perfumed.  Good  to  put  in  brandy,  and 
to  dry  ;  in  August  and  September. 

Sabine  d'Kte,  Bfllissinte  d^ Amour,  Epargne  of  the  French.  English 
Red  Cheek.  This  Pe.ir  is  of  pyramidal  form,  terminating  in  a  round  blunt 
point  at  the  stalk  ;  colour  yellow,  but  fine  scarlet  next  the  sun  ;  the  whole 
surface  smooth,  regular,  and  polished;  flesh  white,  melting,  juicy,  and 
highly  perfumed  ;  the  tree  is  an  abundant  bearer,  and  ripens  its  fruit  in 
August. 

Stevens's  Genesee  Pear.  A  specimen  of  this  Pear  was  fnrnished  the 
Orchardists'  Companion,  from  Wm.  Reid's  Nursery,  at  Murray  Hill,  New- 
York.  It  appears  by  the  plate,  to  be  a  beautiful  Pear,  of  large  size,  and 
rather  of  an  oblong  form  ;  its  colour  is  mellow  green,  with  russet  blotches  ; 
its  flesh  is  represented  as  while,  juicy,  and  melting  ;  flavour  sprightly,  rich, 
and  very  delicious.     Time  of  ripening,  toward  the  end  of  August. 

Skinlkss  Pe.ar.  Poire  sans  peau,  Fleur  de  Guignes.  A  small  oblong 
Pear;  the  skin,  which  is  very  smooth  and  thin,  is  jiale  green,  marbled  with 
red  and  yellow  ;  flesh  crisp,  sweet,  and  of  pleasant  flavour.  The  tree  is 
very  prolific,  ripening  its  fruit  in  August. 

SuMMKR  Franchkal,  F/-a?2crfrtZ  d'Ete,  Fondante,  France  Cannel,  Gros 
Micet  d'Ete.  Milan  Blanc,  Prehles  Beurre-  Fruit  above  medium  size  ; 
shape  oblong;  thickest  about  one-third  from  the  eye  ;  skin  yellowish  green; 
flesh  melting,  rich  and  excellent;  ripe  early  in  September. 

Summer  Melting,  Summer  Beurre,  Fondant  d'Ete.  An  excellent 
summer  Pear,  of  pyriform  shape  ;  colour  yellow,  tinged  with  brownish 
red  ;  flesh  soft,  melting,  and  sweet.  The  tree  bears  young,  and  ripens  its 
fruit  in  August. 

Summer  P.osk,  Thorny  Rose,  Epine  Rose,  Poire  de  Rose,  Rosenhime 
Kraft.  A  Pear  of  medium  size,  in  form  resembling  an  Apple;  the  skin 
is  dull  yellow,  spotted  with  russet,  and  marbled  with  red  ;  a  very  produc- 
tive variety,  rippning  its  fruit  early  in  August.  Mr.  Manning  pronounces 
this  a  beautiful  fruit,  and  the  tree  a  great  bearer. 

WiLLAMs's  Bonchretien.  Bartlct.  Williams's  Early,  Autumn  Superb 
of  Prince.  This  fruit  originated  with  a  Mr.  Wheeler,  at  Aldermaston, 
in  Berkshire,  Engbind,  but  was  subsequently  extensively  propagated  by 
Mr.  Williams,  near  London  ;  hence  its  name-  The  fruit  is  large,  oblong; 
the  stalk  thick  and  fleshy,  an  inch  long ;  the  colour  at  maturity  yellow 


DESCRIPTIVE    LIST    OF    PEARS.  117 

tinged  with  red  ;  flesh  whitish,  very  melting,  and  delicate  ;  juice  perfumed, 
sweet  and  abundant.  Tree  very  productive,  and  fruit  ripe  early  in  Sep- 
tember. 


AUTUMN    FRUIT. 

Andrews,  Amory,  Gibson.  Fruit  oblong  ;  skin  yellowish  green,  with  a 
dull  red  cheek  ;  flesh  melting,  juicy,  and  high  flavoured.  Mr.  Manning 
represents  it  as  "  a  very  valuable  pear,  producing  its  fruit  early  and  abun- 
dantly."    Ripe  in  September  and  October. 

Autumn  Bergamot,  Common  Bergamot,  York  Bergamot,  Bergamotte 
d^Automne.  Andrews.  Fruit  globular,  depressed  ;  skin  rough,  yellowish 
green,  and  dull  brown,  with  greyish  spots  ;  flesh  pale,  melting,  juicy, 
sugary  and  perfumed;  ripe  in  September  and  October.  This  variety  has 
been  cultivated  in  England  from  the  time  of  Julius  Caesar,  and  is  still  con- 
sidered by  many  a  first-rate  Pear  in  its  season. 

Autumn  Superb.  This  is  a  large  Pear,  full  and  round  at  the  eye, 
diminishing  to  a  point  at  the  stem;  the  skin  is  yellow,  mixed  with  dull 
red  ;  the  flesh  melting  and  good.  Mr.  Manning  says  it  bears  young;  and 
that  the  fruit  ripens  in  October. 

Belle  et  Bonne,  Belle  d' Flanders.  Schone  und  gute,  Grncieuse.  Fruit 
very  large,  globular,  depressed;  the  stalk  long  ;  skin  greenish  yellow,  but 
next  the  sun  yellow,  with  spots  of  russet;  flesh  white,  sweet,  exceeding 
rich  and  agreeably  perfumed.  The  tree  is  very  productive,  and  the  fruit 
ripens  in  September.  This  variety  has  been  cultivated  under  the  erroneous 
names  of  Charles  d'Autriche,  Belle  De  Bruxelles  and  Bergamotte  Crus- 
sanne,  which  are  distinct  fruits. 

Belle  Lucrative,  Fondanfe  d'Automne.  A  beautiful  Flemish  Pear ; 
middle  sized,  roundish,  tapering  at  the  stalk  ;  skin  yellow,  slightly  rus- 
setted,  and  tinged  with  pale  red;  flesh  melting,  sweet  and  juicy,  with  a 
slight  musky  perfume  ;  early  in  October.  Mr.  Manning  considered  this 
variety  as  worthy  of  a  place  among  the  choisest  collections. 

Beurre  Bosc,  Cdlebasse  bosc.  Fruit  large  and  very  long;  terminated 
with  a  crown,  near  three  inches  in  diameter ;  somewhat  calabash-formed  ; 
skin  gray  fewn  colour,  but  russetty  yellow  at  maturity  ;  flesh  white,  melt- 
ing, highly  flavoured,  and  delicious  ;  it  ripens  in  October. 

Bleeker's  Meadow,  Large  Seckel,  of  Prince.  Meadow  Pear  of  Winter 
^  Co.  A  native  fruit  of  medium  size,  roundish  form,  and  of  a  yellow 
colour,  tinged  with  dull  red  ;  the  flesh  melting,  juicy,  sweet,  musky,  and 
of  delicious  flavour;  ripe  in  October.     A  prolific  bearer. 

Brown  Beurre,  Beurre  Rouge,  Beurre  d'Or,  Beurre  Bole.  Beurre  du 
Roi,  Beurre  d'Aniboise,  Isombert,  Red  Beurre,  Golden  Beurre,  Poire  d'Am- 
boi.se.  This  was  formerly  considered  the  best  of  all  Pears  in  its  season. 
Fruit  rather  large,  of  greenish  yellow,  and  dusky  red  colour,  covered  with 
thin  russet;  flesh  melting,  buttery,  rich  and  excellent;  at  perfection  in 
October  and  November. 

Capiamont,  Beurre  de  Capiaumont,  Calehasse  vass.  This  variety  is 
much  esteemed  in  the  vicinity  of  Boston.  Fruit  of  medium  size ;  skin 
yellow,  tinged  with  fine  red  or  cinnamon ;  flesh  yellowish,  melting,  very 
rich  and  high  flavoured  ;  in  September  and  October, 


118  DESCRIPTIVE    LIST    OF    PEARS. 

Capsheaf.  a  medium  sized  Pear,  much  cultivated  near  Providence, 
Rhode  Island  ;  the  shape  is  rather  globular;  skin  a  light  cinnamon  russet: 
flesh  white,  melting  and  juicy.  The  tree  bears  well,  says  Mr.  Manning, 
and  the  fruit  ripens  in  October. 

Charles  d'Autriche,  Gracieuse.  Charles  of  Austria.  A  fine  and 
beautiful  fruit,  large,  three  and  a  half  inches  long,  and  three  inches  broad; 
colour  greenish  yellow,  with  brown  spots,  and  partially  russetted;  flesh 
•white,  melting,  juicy,  and  delicious  ;  ripe  in  October,  and  good  in  Novem- 
ber. 

CuMBERi,AND.  A  native  fruit  from  Cumberland,  Rhode  Island,  of 
large  size  and  oblona;  shape ;  skin  orange  colour,  with  bright  red  cheek  ; 
the  flesh  melting,  juicy  and  good  ;  ripe  in  October.  The  tree  is  of  vigorous 
growth,  says  Mr.  Manning,  and  bears  abundantly. 

CusniNG.  A  native  fruit  from  Hingham,  Massachusetts;  of  medium 
size  and  oblong  shape  ;  skin,  when  ripe,  smooth,  of  a  light  yellow,  mottled 
with  dull  red  on  one  side  ;  flesh  white,  melting,  sprightly  and  good.  Mr. 
Manning  says  it  comes  early  into  bearing,  and  produces  plenty  of  fruit  in 
September  and  October. 

Delices  d'Ardenpokt,  Beliefs  (THariicnpont  de  Toulouse.  Beiirre 
(VArdeiipont  of  so/ne-  Fruit  above  medium  size  ;  oblong,  pyramidal;  skin 
yellow  at  maturity,  and  partially  covered  with  a  thin  cinnamon  coloured 
russet ;  flesh  yellowish  white,  nearly  melting  -,  juice  pleasant,  sweet,  and 
abundant ;  in  October  and  November.     The  tree  is  a  good  bearer. 

Dix.  A  native  variety  originating  in  the  garden  of  Mr.  Dix,  in  Boston  ; 
fruit  large,  oblong;  skin,  when  ripe,  yellow,  with  a  blush  of  red;  flesh 
melting,  juicy  and  rich  ;  in  October  and  November. 

Doyenne  Santelete.  A  new,  fine,  handsome  Flemish  Pear  ;  fruit 
above  the  middle  size,  pyramidally  oblong ;  skin  pale  green,  speckled  with 
grey  russet;  flesh  white,  a  little  gritty,  but  tender;  juice  saccharine,  with 
a  slight  musky  perfume.  The  tree  is  hardy,  and  ripens  its  fruit  early  in 
October. 

Duchess  of  Angoui.eme,  Duchesse  d^Angoulenie.  A  Pear  of  first-rate 
excellence.  Form  roundish,  oblong,  tapering  towards  the  stalk  ;  skin  dull 
yellow,  with  broad  russet  patches  ;  flesh  white,  rich,  melting,  very  juicy, 
and  high  flavoured,  with  a  most  agreeable  perfume.  Specimens  of  this 
fruit  have  been  shown  in  England,  weighing  twenty-two  ounces  ;  at  per- 
fection in  October  and  November. 

Flemish  Beauty,  La  Belle  de  Flanders.  Imperatrice  de  la  France. 
Brilliant,  Bosch,  Bouche  Nuuvelle.  A  fine  Flemish  Pear  in  great  repute  ; 
it  is  of  larice  size,  obovate,  obtuse  at  the  stalk ;  greenish  yellow  russet, 
tinged  with  crimson  ;  flesh  rather  firm,  yellowish  white,  sweet,  rich,  and 
excellent ;  it  ripens  in  October. 

Frederick  of  VVurtemberg,  J?oi  fZe  Wurtemberg,  Capiaumont  of  some 
collections.  A  large  and  splendid  Pear,  of  pyramidal  form  and  fine 
yellow  colour,  covered  with  beautiful  crimson  on  one  side  ;  flesh  melting, 
and  of  delicious  flavour.  The  three  bears  while  young,  and  very  abun- 
dantly. 

Fulton.  A  fine  Pear  of  medium  size,  raised  from  seed  by  INIr.  Fulton, 
of  Topsham,  Maine;  shape  roundish  turbinate;  skin  dark  yellow;  rus- 
setted ;  flesh  melting,  juicy,  and  of  delicious  flavour  ;  ripe  in  September, 


DESCRIPTIVE    LIST    OF    PEARS.  119 

and  lasts  a  month.     The  tree  is  a  great  and  constant  bearer,  and  highly 

deserving  of  cultivation. 

Gansel's  Bergamot,  Broca's  Bergamot  Ives^s  Bergamot,  Bonne  Rouge. 
Fruit  varying  from  middle  size  to  large;  ovate  flattened;  colour  dull 
green,  slightly  red  next  the  sun;  flesh  white,  melting,  sweet,  rich  and  high 
flavoured.  A  delicious  Pear;  ripe  in  October,  and  good  till  Christmas. 
Mr.  Manning  says  that  this  variety  was  introduced  in  1766,  and  as  yet 
shows  no  sign  of  decay. 

Golden  Beurrk  of  Bilboa.  This  variety  was  imported  from  Bilboa, 
by  Mr.  Hooper,  of  Marbleliead  ;  the  original  name  being  unknown.  Fruit 
of  medium  size,  oblong;  colour  a  bright  golden  yellow,  with  patches  of 
russet ;  perfectly  melting,  and  of  fine  flavour.  A  beautiful  Pear  tree,  a 
great  bearer,  and  worthy  of  cultivation  ;  ripe  in  October. 

Gork's  Heathcot.  a  native  variety,  highly  esteemed  in  Massachu- 
setts. Fruit  of  medium  size  ;  form  long;  skin  of  a  uniformly  light  yellow; 
flesh  melting,  juicy,  and  high  flavoured.  The  growth  of  the  tree  is  hand- 
some and  vigorous,  producing  abundant  crops  in  September  and  October. 

Green  Sykvange,  Hylvange  Vert,  Bergumottt  SyLvange.  A  most  supe- 
rior Pear,  of  medium  size,  skin  rough  and  green,  speckled  with  grey  or 
black.  The  flesh  is  greenish  near  the  skin,  white  in  the  centre,  soft,  sac- 
charine and  juicy ;  fruit  in  perfection  from  October  to  Christmas.  The 
tree  is  a  great  bearer,  and  specimens  of  the  fruit  have  been  known  to  weigh 
thirteen  ounces. 

HAcON'.i  Incojiparable,  Norfolk  Seelling.  Duwnham  Seedlingnf  Win- 
ter d(  Co.  Fruit  middle  sized,  of  pale  yellow  colour,  mixed  with  green, 
partially  covered  with  orange  russet ;  flesh  yellowish  white,  slightly  gritty, 
but  very  tender,  juicy,  sweet  and  rich ;  and  possessing  a  high  musky  and 
perfumed  rt;ivour.  The  tree  is  a  great  bearer,  and  the  fruit  excellent ;  in 
Ivovember  and  December.  A  silver  medal  was  given  to  the  originator  of 
this  fruit,  as  a  prize,  in  England,  1S30. 

Harvard,  L'Epergne,  Bonton  Epurgne-  This  variety  is  highly  prized 
in  the  Boston  markets  ;  fruit  above  medium  size ;  oblong,  swollen  at  the 
crown  ;  skin  russetty  yellow,  tinged  with  red ;  flesh  white,  juicy  and 
melting  ;  in  September  and  October. 

Henry  the  Fourth,  Henri  Quntre.  Fruit  of  medium  size  ;  oblong; 
skin  a  dull  yellow,  mixed  with  brown  and  green ;  flesh  yellow,  rather 
gritty,  juicy  and  melting,  with  a  peculiar  rich  flavour;  ripe  in  September 
and  October.  Mr.  Manning  says  the  tree  bears  while  young,  and  abun- 
dantly. 

Long  Green  of  Autumn,  Mouille  bouche,  Mouthwnter.  Mr.  Manning 
says  that  this  is  one  of  the  best  of  the  old  varieties  ;  its  form  is  very  long  ; 
skin  at  maturity  a  light  green  ;  flesh  white,  melting,  and  rich  flavoured. 
The  tree  is  of  vigorous  growth,  bears  well,  and  the  fruit  is  ripe  in  Septem- 
ber and  October. 

Makie  Louise,  Marie  Chrelienne.  Fruit  oblong,  tapering  towards 
both  ends;  size  varying  from  medium  to  large;  skin  nearly  smooth,  yel- 
lowish green,  and  cinnamon  coloured  russet ;  flesh  white,  melting,  juicy, 
and  rich.  It  ripens  in  October  and  November,  and  is  an  excellent  fruit  in 
its  season. 

Moor  Fowl  Egg.  Fruit  rather  small,  globular,  ovate,  swollen  in  the 
middle  i  skin  orange  brown  ne.\t  the  sun,  with  spots  of  russet ;  flesh  yel- 


120  DESCRIPTIVE    LIST    OP    PEARS. 

lowisli  white,  a  little  gritty,  but  tender  and  mellow,  juice  saccharine,  a 
little  perfumed.  This  is  a  hardy  Scotch  variety  ;  ripe  in  September,  and 
good  in  October 

Napoleon,  Medaille,  Sauvageon  Liart.  Roi  de  Rome,  and  Wurtemburg 
of  Prince.  Fruit  large,  form  of  the  Colmar ;  skin  smooth;  colour  bright 
green,  but  at  maturity  pale  green;  flesh  very  melting,  with  an  unusual 
abundance  of  ricli  agreeable  juice.     At  perfection  in  October  and  November. 

Phincesse  of  Obange,  Princess  d'Orange,  Princess  Cmquette-  The 
fruit  is  roundish  ;  the  skin  bright  reddish  orange  russet ;  flesh  yellowish 
white,  sugary  and  rich,  in  some  seasons  perfectly  melting,  but  occasionally 
a  little  gritty.     A  beautiful  Pear,  and  of  good  quality  ;  in  October. 

Seckle,  New-York  Red  Cheek,  Red  Cheek  Seckle,  Sycle.  An  excellent 
native  fruit,  in  size  rather  small  ;  colour  varymg  from  yellowish  to  brown- 
ish russet,  but  bright  red  next  the  sun  ;  flesh  melting,  spicy,  and  of  a  most 
extraordiriary  rich  flavour.  This  fruit  grows  in  clusters,  in  great  abun- 
dance, and  IS  at  perfection  in  September  and  October. 

Swan's  Egg,  Moor  Fowl  Egg  if  Boston.  Fruit  small,  of  an  oval,  tur- 
binate figure  ;  colour  yellowish  green,  and  dull  russetty  brown  ;  flesh  tender 
and  melting,  with  a  rich,  saccharine,  musky  flavour.  An  excellent  fruit; 
ripe  in  October.  The  tree  is  remarkably  tall,  upright,  vigorous,  and  pro- 
ductive. 

Urbaniste,  Beurre  du  Roi.  The  fruit  is  of  medium  size,  pyramidally 
ovate  ;  skin  pale  green,  inclining  to  yellow,  with  green  streaks  ;  flesh 
white,  but  reddish  yellow  next  the  core  ;  it  is  quite  melting,  juicy,  and  very 
sweet,  with  a  little  perfume;  it  ripens  from  the  middle  of  September  to 
November. 

Washington.  A  native  fruit  from  New  Jersey,  of  medium  size  and 
oval  form  ;  the  skin  is  light  yellow,  covered  with  small  brown  spots,  with 
a  tinge  of  red;  the  flesh  melting,  and  of  excellent  flavour.  Mr.  Manning 
says  the  tree  bears  well,  and  is  worthy  of  general  cultivation ;  fruit  ripens 
in  September. 

White  Doyenne,  Doyenne  Blanc,  Beurre  Blanc,  Bonne  ante,  St.  Mi' 
chael,  Carlisle,  Citron  de  Sepfenibre,  Kaiserbirne,  Poire  a  courle  queue, 
Poire  de  Lirnon,  Poire  de  Seigneur,  Poire  Monsieur,  Valencia,  White 
Beurre,  Virgalieu  of  some  collections.  Fruit  pretty  large  ;  roundish  ob- 
long; skin  pale  citron  yellow,  with  cinnamon  russet,  speckled;  flesh 
white,  juicy,  very  buttery,  and  delicious  ;  ripe  in  September  and  October. 
An  old,  and  once  celebrated  variety,  still  admired  by  many,  although 
excluded  from  some  nurseries,  or  cultivated  under  new  names. 

Wilkinson.  A  native  Pear  from  Cumberland,  R.  I.  The  tree  bears 
young,  and  is  very  fruitful;  size  above  medium;  form  oblong;  skin  yel- 
low, with  a  brownish  blush  near  the  sun  ;  flesh  white,  juicy,  and  melting  ; 
at  perfection  in  October  and  November. 


WINTER   FKUIT. 

Beurre  d'Arembero,  Beurre  d'Arembert,  Due  d^Aremherg,  Poire 
d'Aremberg,  Beurre  Deschamps,  Beurre  des  Orphelins  of  Deschamps, 
Colmar  Deschamps.     The  English  and  French  writers  speak  of  this  Pear 


DESCRIPTIVE    LIST    OF    PEARS.  121 

as  one  of  the  best  in  cultivation.  The  tree  is  a  great  bearer,  comes  early 
into  cultivation,  and  the  fruit  will  keep  till  March.  Fruit  large,  turbinate; 
Bkin  of  a  delicate  pale  green,  dotted  with  russet,  which  becomes  of  a  deeper 
yellow  at  maturity  ;  flesh  whitish,  fine,  very  juicy,  perfectly  melting,  and 
very  extraordinarily  rich,  sweet,  high  flavoured  and  excellent. 

Bkurre  Diel,  DieL's  Biitterbinie.  Doruthie  Royale,  Beurre  de  Yelle, 
Beurre  Royale,  Poire  de  Melon.  Beurre  Incoinpara'jle  of  suine.  This 
ranks  amongst  the  best  of  Pears.  The  tree  is  of  vigorous  growth  ;  fruit, 
when  in  perfection,  four  inches  long,  and  three  inches  broad  ;  the  skin  at 
maturity  is  briglit  orange,  with  reddish  russet ;  flesh  clear  white,  melting, 
juicy,  and  of  a  delicious  aromatic  flavour ;  from  November  to  January. 

Beurre  Rance,  Beurre Epine,  Hardcnpnnf  de  Prbifempn.  This  is  said 
to  be  a  first-rate  Pear.  The  tree  is  vigorous,  and  a  good  bearer;  fruit  mid- 
dle sized,  oblong  ;  skin  deep  green,  with  russetty  specks  ;  flesh  green, 
melting,  having  a  rich  delicious  flavour,  with  very  little  acid.  It  shrivels 
in  ripening,  but  will  keep  till  April. 

Bezy  Vaet,  Bezy  de  Saint  Vanst.  A  most  excellent  Pear,  somewhat 
the  shape  of  the  Swan's  Egg,  but  larger  ;  skin  dull  green,  covered  with 
russetty  spots  ;  flesh  yellowish  ;  perfectly  melting,  sweet  and  agreeably 
perfumed  ;  at  perfection  in  November  and  December. 

Catillac.  Fruit  very  large,  rather  turbinate  ;  pale  yellow,  stained  with 
red;  flesh  firm  and  breaking;  its  flavour  astringent;  an  excellent  baking 
Pear;  from  November  to  April.  Specimens  of  this  variety  have  been 
known  to  weigh  upward  of  two  pounds. 

Chaumontel,  Bezy  de  Chaumontelle,  Poire  de  Chaumonielle,  Beurre 
d'Hi-ver.  This  noble  old  variety  is  a  fruit  varying  in  size,  from  large  to 
very  large  ;  its  colour  at  maturity  yellow,  tinged  with  brownish  red  next 
the  sun  ;  its  form  variable  ;  flesh  melting,  juicy,  sweet,  musky,  excellent ; 
in  season  from  November  to  February. 

CoLMAH,  Cotmar  Souverain.  Poire  Manne,  Bergamotte  Tardive,  IncoiTi' 
parable.  This  fruit  is  rather  large  ;  skin  smooth,  of  a  green  colour, 
changing  to  a  yellow  at  maturity;  form  pyramidal;  flesh  melting,  juicy, 
saccharine,  and  of  excellent  flavour.  The  fruit  is  in  perfection  from  No- 
vember to  February. 

Columbia,  Columbian  Virgalieu.  A  large  native  pear  of  oblong  or 
pyramid  form,  and  fine  yellow  colour,  tinged  with  red  ;  flesh  rich,  firm, 
juicy,  and  excellent ;  from  November  to  January.  Tree  productive  and 
of  very  handsome  form. 

Easter  Beirre,  Bergamofte  de  la  Pentecote,  Beurre  d'Hiver  de  Brux- 
elles,  Doyenne  d'Hiver,  de  Bruxelles,  Bezi  Chaumontelle  Tres  Gros.  Of 
all  the  late  keeping  Pears,  this  is  considered  the  best  (for  England.)  Fruit 
large,  roundish,  oblong;  colour  green,  but  yellow  at  maturity,  with  specks 
of  russet  brown  ;  flesh  yellowish  white,  perfectly  buttery  and  melting,  also 
extremely  high  flavoured;  it  is  eatable  in  November,  and  will  keep  till 
May  ;  it  is  a  most  profuse  bearer,  on  a  quince  stock. 

EcHASSERV,  Bezy  de  Clias.^ery,  Bezy  de  Landry,  Poire  d'(Eiif,Ambretfe, 
Walnut,  Tilton  of  New- Jersey.  Fruit  middle  size,  o-f  a  roundish  turbinate 
figure,  something  like  a  Citron,  or  the  Ambrette;  skin  smooth,  greenish 
yellow,  with  grey  specks ;  flesh  melting,  juicy  and  delicious  ;  from  Decem- 
ber to  March. 


122  DESCRIPTIVE    LIST    OF    PEARS. 

Glout  Morceau,  GIoux  MorceauXy  Beurre  d'Aremberg,  Roi  de  WurU 
emburg,  Gloria,  Colmar  d^ hiver  of  Prince,  and  Bnirre  de  Hardeiipont  of 
Downing.  A  very  lars;e  Bela:ic  variety,  of  great  excellence;  fruit  of  ovalish 
form,  pale  green  colour,  inclining  to  yellow,  with  russetty  specks  and 
blotches;  flesh  whitish,  tirm,  very  juicy  and  excellent;  in  perfection  from 
November  to  March. 

Lewis.  Tins  variety  originated  on  the  farm  of  Mr.  I.  Lewis,  of  Roxbu- 
ry,  Mass.  The  size  is  me.lium  ;  form  somewhat  globular;  skin,  when 
ripe,  a  greenish  yellow;  the  (iesh  is  white,  very  melting,  juicy  and  excel- 
lent; from  November  to  March.  The  tree  grows  quick,  and  bears  abun- 
dance of  fruit. 

Louise  Bonne  df,  Jersey,  Louise  Bonne  d^ Avranches.  A  large  Pear ; 
oblong;  a  good  substiiute  for  the  old  St.  Germain;  skin  yellowish  green, 
sometimes  tinged  with  red  ;  flesh  extremely  tender,  and  full  of  an  excellent 
saccharine,  well  flavoured  juice.  A  first-rate  fruit,  from  October  till  after 
Christinas. 

Newtown  Vergaleau.  A  large  Pear,  of  a  yellow  colour,  with  a  very 
short  stalk  ;  the  tree  grows  very  crooked  and  of  an  irregular  form,  bending 
by  the  weight  of  its  fruit,  which  is  excellent  to  preserve,  or  for  baking ; 
from  November  to  January.  Its  productiveness  renders  it  desirable  in  an 
orchard. 

Passe  Colmar,  Fondnnte  de  Panisel,  Passe  Colmar  Gris  dit  Precet, 
Poire  Prectl,  Pause  Colmar,  Epineux,  Beurre  Colmar  Gris  dit  Precel, 
Beurre  d'Argenson,  Present  de  Malines,  Colmar  souveriiin,  Chnpman's. 
A  most  valuable  Pear,  of  medium  size,  conical,  flattened  next  the  eye;  skin 
at  matur.ty  yellowish,  sprinkled  with  russet,  a  tin^e  of  red  next  the  sun  ; 
flesh  yellowish,  melting,  rich  and  excellent.  The  tree  is  a  good  bearer, 
and  the  fruit  is  in  perfection  from  November  to  February. 

Pound  Pkab.,  Black  Pear  of  Worcester,  Parkinson's  Warden,  Grande 
Mimurque,  Liure,  Gruote  Mogul,  Gros  Ruteau  Gris,  Love  Pear.  Wbiter 
Bell  of  Downing.  Fruit  very  large,  of  a  roundish  turbinate  figure  ;  skin 
rough,  covered  with  dull  russet ;  flesh  hard  and  coarse,  but  excellent  when 
baked  or  stewed  in  winter.  Grafted  on  a  Pear  stock,  the  tree  bears  so 
abundantly,  as  to  bend  like  a  weeping  willow.  A  specimen  of  this  variety 
■was  exhibited  at  the  sixteenth  annual  fair  of  the  American  Institute,  Octo- 
ber, 1843,  weighing  33  oz. 

Prince's  St.  Germain.  Fruit  about  medium  size;  form  obovate  ;  skin 
russetty  yellow,  with  dull  red  cheek  ;  flesh  melting  and  good.  Mr.  Man- 
ning says  that  its  abundant  bearing, and  its  ripening  gradually  in  the  house 
during  winter,  renders  it  a  very  valuable  market  fruit ;  good  till  after 
Christmas. 

SuR PASSE  Marie  Louise,  Pitt's  Prolific  Marie,  Pitt's  Marie  Louise. 
A  large  Pear;  oblong  or  calabash  formed;  green,  covered  with  brown  yel- 
low russet ;  flesh  melting  and  rich  flavoured  ;  ripe  in  October  and  Novem- 
ber.    It  is  a  very  prolific  bearer. 

SuRPASSE  St.  Germain.  Fruit  of  medium  size  ;  round  "it  the  crown, 
tapering  to  the  stem :  it  is  of  very  irregular  form  ;  the  skin  is  rough  ; 
colour  yellow,  mixed  with  dull  brown  ;  flesh  coarse  grained,  sugary,  and 
high  flavoured  ;  good  from  Novem')er  till  Janunry. 

SuRPASsE  Veroaleau.  Fruit  large,  oblong,  some  specimens  nearly 
round ;  the  skin  smooth,  its  colour  yellow  with  a  light  red  cheek  ;  flesh 


DESCRIPTIVE    LIST    OF    PEARS.  123 

rich,  juicy,  and  delicious  eating  ;  in  October  and  November.  Mr.  Manning 
says  the  tree  bears  young,  yields  large  crops,  and  is  worthy  of  extensive 
cultivation. 

UvENDALF.'s  St.  Germain,  Belle  de  Jersey.  A  large  fine  pyriform  Bell 
Pear,  of  a  brownish  green  colour,  with  russetty  spots;  flesh  firm,  and  high 
flavoured.  It  is  considered  a  first-rate  winter  Pear,  and  will  keep  till 
March.  Mr.  Raid,  of  tlie  Murray  Hill  Nursery,  exhibited  some  fine  speci- 
mens of  this  fruit  at  the  sixteenth  annual  fair  of  the  American  Institute, 
October,  1843. 

Vicar  of  Wink  field,  Bourgrnestre  of  Bos/on,  Monsieur  Le  Cure, 
Dumaft,  Clion  tf  Boston,  according  to  ihe  cafalopue  of  Winter  ^  Co.  Flush- 
tn^.  Fruit  oblong,  or  pyramidal  ;  skin  russetty  yellow,  with  ruddy  colour 
on  one  side ;  flesh  firm,  sweet,  and  rich  ;  good  as  a  table  fruit,  from  De- 
cember to  February.  This  variety  is  deserving  extensive  cultivation,  for 
its  beauty,  large  size,  keepina:  qualities  and  productiveness. 

Winter  Nelis,  Nelis  d'Hivcr,  La  Bonne  Molimnse,  Spretuw.  All  ac- 
counts agree  that  this  is  a  most  excellent  Winter  Pear  ;  its  size  is  above 
medium,  somewhat  oval  ;  its  skin  green  and  russetty,  full  of  grey  dots; 
flesh  yellowish  white,  melting,  high  flavoured,  with  a  musky  perfume  ;  at 
perfection  in  December  ond  January. 

PERRY    PEARS. 

Bari.and.  This  variety  took  its  name  from  the  original  tree,  growing 
in  a  field  called  Bare  Lands,  in  Herefordshire,  England.  The  fruit  is  small- 
ish, of  ovate  form  ;  skin  dull  green,  russetted  with  grey.  It  is  deemed 
excellent  for  perry.     Specific  gravity  of  its  juice  1070. 

HoLMoRE.  Fruit  small  globular  ;  skin  of  a  dingy  yellowish  green,  tinged 
with  red.  Excellent  perry  is  made  of  this  variety  in  Herefordshire,  Eng- 
land.    .Specific  gravity  of  its  juice,  1066. 

HuFFcAp.  There  are  several  varieties  of  Pears  bearing  this  name,  but  the 
best  perry  is  made  of  tlie  true  Herefordshire  Huffcap.  The  fruit  is  middle 
sized,  of  pale  green  colour,  marked  with  grey  russet.  Specific  gravity  of 
its  juice  1070. 

Monarch.  A  new  Pear,  considered  by  Mr.  Knight  as  without  a  rival. 
The  tree  is  of  rapid  growth,  and  an  abundant  bearer  ;  fruit  large,  of  an  ex- 
traordinary musky  flavour,  and  deemed  excellent  for  perry  ;  good  also  for 
the  table  ;  from  October  to  December  and  January. 

Oldfield.  Fruit  below  the  medium  size,  of  pale  green  colour,  with 
russetty  spots.  An  excellent  perry  fruit.  Specific  gravity  of  its  juice  1067. 
From  this  variety  is  made  the  celebrated  Ledbury  Perry. 

LoNGLAND.  Fruit  very  handsome,  much  like  the  Swan's  Egg  in  shape; 
skin  bright  gold  colour,  tinged  and  mottled  with  a  russetty  lively  orange; 
specific  gravity  of  its  juice  1063.  The  tree  is  handsome  and  upright,  and 
much  cultivated  in  Herefordshire  for  perry. 

Tkinton  Squash.  Fruit  middle  sized,  of  angular  shape;  skin  a  muddy 
russetty  green,  marbled  with  dull  orange,  inter.-spersed  with  ash-coloured 
specks.  It  originated  in  Teinton,  Gloucestershire,  and  the  perry  made 
from  this  fruit  is  of  the  very  highest  quality,  something  approaching  in 
colour  and  briskness  to  champaigne,  for  which  fine  samples  of  it  have 
sometimes  been  sold. 


124  PLUM. 

PLUM. 
Prunier.      Prurms. 

The  Plum  tree  rises  fifteen  feet  in  height,  branching  into 
a  moderately  spreading  head  ;  the  leaves  are  ovate,  serrated, 
and  on  short  petioles  ;  petals  white.  The  natuial  colour  of 
the  fruit  is  generally  considered  to  be  black ;  but  the  varie- 
ties in  cultivation  are  of  yellow,  red,  blue,  and  green  colours, 
and  of  different  forms  and  flavours.  There  are  several  good 
sorts  that  grow  wild  in  the  hedges  of  Britain,  and  also  in 
America,  but  its  original  country  is  supposed  to  be  Asia  ;  and 
according  to  Pliny,  it  was  taken  from  Syria  into  Greece,  and 
from  thence  into  Italy.  There  are  many  varieties  cultivated 
in  France ;  and  in  the  London  Horticultural  Garden  there 
are  about  three  hundred  sorts  kept  under  name.  The  Green 
Gage  is  considered  the  best  dessert  Plum,  and  the  Egg 
Plum  for  sweetmeats ;  but  the  Damson  is  the  best  baking 
Plum. 

The  Plum  is  said  to  succeed  best  in  a  lofty  exposure,  and 
may  yield  well  in  the  mountainous  parts  of  the  United  States ; 
it  yields  well  near  Albany,  but  the  fruit  is  by  no  means 
plentiful  in  the  vicinity  of  the  city  of  New- York.  Like  the 
Nectarine,  it  is  subject  to  the  attacks  of  the  Curculio,  and 
other  insects. 

It  has  been  observed  that  Plum  trees  growing  in  frequent- 
ed lanes  or  barn-yards,  are  more  generally  fiuitful  than 
those  cultivated  in  private  gardens,  or  secluded  situations ; 
this  circumstance  is  by  some  attributed  to  the  jarring  of  the 
trees,  by  cattle  and  swine  rubbing  against  them ;  thus  caus- 
ing the  defective  fruit  to  fall  on  the  ground.  Geese  kept  in 
orchards  or  fruit  gardens,  often  prove  beneficial ;  as  they, 
by  devouring  the  defective  fruit  and  other  corruptible  matter, 
prevent  the  possibility  of  insects  getting  into  the  ground,  so 
as  to  perpetuate  their  existence,  or  multiply  their  species. 

Cobbett  attributes  the  scarcity  of  Plums  in  New- York  to 


PLUM.  125 

neglect  In  his  American  Gardener,  paragraph  320,  he 
asks,  "  How  is  it  that  we  see  so  few  Plums  in  America, 
when  the  markets  are  supplied  with  cart-loads  in  such  a 
chilly,  shady,  and  blighty  country  as  England  V 

I  would  answer  this  querry  by  informing  the  reader,  that 
the  inhabitants  of  our  parent  country,  with  a  view  to  derive 
the  full  benefit  of  the  sun's  rays  for  the  cultivation  of  Plums, 
Peaches,  Nectarines,  and  such  other  fruit  as  require  extra 
heat,  train  their  trees  against  walls,  fences,  or  trellis-work ; 
and  from  their  having  these  means  of  support,  gaideners 
have  no  inducement  to  plant  them  deeper  than  is  necessary; 
whereas,  from  the  circumstance  of  the  American  climate 
being  sufficiently  warm  to  ripen  those  fruits  on  standard 
trees,  they  are  generally  so  cultivated.  Many  persons,  to 
save  the  trouble  of  staking,  or  otherwise  supporting  their 
trees,  plant  them  too  deep,  and  thus  defeat  the  operations 
of  nature.  That  this  is  a  prevalent  eiror,  has  been  shown 
in  the  articles  Nectarine  and  Peach,  to  which  the  reader  is 
referred  for  a  more  concise  view  of  the  subject. 

New  varieties  of  the  Plum  are  produced  from  seed ;  and 
the  old  kinds  are  generally  propagated  by  budding  on  stocks 
of  free-growing  Plums,  in  preference  to  grafting,  because 
Plum  trees  are  very  apt  to  gum  wherever  large  wounds  are 
made  in  them.  All  the  sorts  produce  their  fruit  on  small 
natural  spurs  rising  at  the  ends  and  along  the  sides  of  the 
bearing  shoots  of  one,  two,  or  three  years'  growth.  In  most 
sorts,  new  fruit  branches  are  two  years  old  before  the  spurs 
bear.  The  same  branches  and  spurs  continue  fruitful,  in 
proportion  to  the  time  which  they  take  to  come  into  bear- 
ing. 

After  the  formation  of  the  head  is  begun,  it  takes  from 
two  to  six  years  before  the  different  sorts  come  into  bearing. 
Standards  must  be  allowed  to  expand  in  free  growth,  occa- 
sionally pruning  long  ramblers  and  irregular  cross  branches. 
In  annual  pruning,  thin  crowded  parts,  cut  away  worn  out 
bearers,  and  all  decayed  and  cankery  wood.      The  Plum 

13* 


126  DESCRIPTIVE    LIST    OF    PLUMS. 

may  be  cultivated  in  small  gardens,  trained  as  espaliers,  or 
to  a  close  fence,  like  the  Apricot,  &c. 

The  tree  is  of  farther  use  than  for  its  fruit  as  a  dessert, 
&c. ;  the  bark  dyes  yellow ;  the  wood  is  used  by  turners ; 
and  the  dried  fruit,  or  prune,  is  formed  into  electuaries  and 
gentle  purgatives.  Prunes  were  originally  brought  from 
Damascus,  whence  their  name. 


SELECT  DESCRIPTIVE  LIST  OF  PLUMS. 

American  Yellow  Gage,  American  Wheat.  A  beautiful  medium 
sized  oval  Plum,  of  a  bright  yellow  colour,  when  fully  ripe;  its  flavour  is 
rich,  equal  to  the  Green  Gage.  The  fruit  is  not  apt  to  crack  nor  to  be 
attacked  by  insects.  It  is  a  very  suitable  variety  to  cultivate  for  the  mar- 
ket ;  it  ripens  in  August  and  September. 

Apricot  T^lum,  Prune  Abricote,  Abricnte  de  Tours.  A  large  freestone 
plum  ;  its  form  is  globular,  depressed,  divided  by  a  deep  saturi?  ;  whitish 
yellow,  but  faint  red  next  the  sun,  and  covered  with  bloom  ;  its  flesh  is 
firm,  juicy,  sweet,  musky  and  excellent;  it  ripens  in  August  and  Sep- 
tember. 

Bingham,  Bingharns  Yellow  Cling.  A  delicious  clingstone  Plum,  of 
large  size  and  oval  form  ;  skin  bright  yellow,  spotted  and  blotched  with 
red  ;  flesh  yellow,  rich,  and  delicious  ;  ripening  in  August  and  September. 

Bleekkr's  Gage.  This  fine  freestone  Plum  is  stated  to  have  been 
raised  by  the  Rev.  Mr.  Bleeker,  of  Albany,  from  the  stone  of  a  German 
Prune;  it  is  a  large  globular  fruit,  of  excellent  quality;  skin  dark  yellow, 
with  red  spots  and  blotches  ;  the  flesh  is  rich,  saccharine,  and  juicy  ;  in 
September. 

Coe's  Goldkn  Drop,  Cor^s  Imperial,  Bury  Seedling,  Golden  Gage, 
Fair's  Golden  Drop.  Raised  by  Mr.  Coe,  Bury  St.  Edmond's,  Suffolk. 
England.  The  tree  is  vigorous;  fruit  oval,  of  large  size  ;  skin  greenish  yel 
low,  spotted  with  violet  and  crimson;  the  flesh,  which  separates  from  the 
stone,  is  of  gold  colour,  rich  and  excellent  ;  the  fruit  ripens  at  the  end  of 
September,  and  will  keep  several  weeks.  A  first-rate  fruit,  and  worthy  of 
general  cultivation. 

Coe's  Late  Red,  Saint  Martin,  Saint  Mortin  Rouge-  An  excellent 
freestone  Plum  of  medium  size,  in  form  almost  round ;  its  colour  is  violet 
purple,  with  a  partial  degree  of  bloom  ;  flesh  rich,  saccharine  and  high 
flavoured.  It  is  one  of  the  best  of  late  Plums,  ripening  in  October  £Uid 
November. 

Columbia,  Columbian  Gage.  A  beautiful  native  clingstone  Plum,  of 
light  purple  colour ;  the  flesh  is  firm,  of  a  greenish  hue,  with  an  abundance 
of  rich  flavoured  juice.  The  tree  is  a  great  bearer,  and  ripens  its  fruit  in 
August. 

Coopek's  Large  Red,  Cooper^s  Large  American,  La  Delicieuse.    This 


DESCRIPTIVE    LIST    OP    PLUMS.  127 

Plum  is  of  extraordinary  size,  measuring  within  an  eighth  of  two  inches  in 
each  direction  ;  the  skin  is  of  a  fine  dark  purple  colour  ;  the  flesh  is  yel- 
lowish green,  rich,  juicy,  and  of  pleasant  flavour  ;  the  fruit  makes  excellent 
preserves,  if  gathered  in  August ;  its  great  defect  is  an  inclination  to  rot,  if 
left  long  on  the  tree. 

Diamond  Plum.  Some  consider  this  as  the  largest  Plum  known;  its 
colour  is  a  dark  purple  ;  in  form  it  resembles  the  Magnum  Bonum,  but  its 
flavour  is  considered  rather  superior;  it  ripens  in  September,  and  the  tlesh 
separates  clear  from  the  stone.  The  tree,  which  grows  vigorously,  ori- 
ginated with  Mr.  Hooker,  Kent,  England. 

Downing's  Emerald  Drop.  A  beautiful  clinkstone  Plum  of  medium 
size,  oblong  form,  and  green  colour;  flesh  firm  and  of  delicious  flavour; 
this  variety  originated  at  the  Nursery  of  A.  J.  Downing  &  Co.,  Newburgh, 
State  of  New  York. 

DowNTON  Imperatrice.  a  superior  late  Plum,  of  medium  size, 
shaped  similar  to  the  blue  imperatrice  ;  skin  dark  yellow,  and  very  thin  ; 
the  flesh  yellow,  soft,  juicy,  with  a  high  flavoured  acidity  ;  at  perfection  in 
October  and  November. 

Drap  d'Or,  Cloth  of  Gold,  Myrabelle  Double.  Yellow  Perdrigon  of 
Winter  it  Co.  A  small  freestone  Plum,  of  a  roundish  form,  and  bright 
yellow  colour,  marbled  with  red;  flesh  yellow,  tender;  juice  sugary  and 
excellent;  ripe  in  July  and  August. 

Duane's  French  Purple,  Dame  Auhert  Violet.  Purple  Magnum 
Bonum  and  Purple  Egg  if  some  cdkctions.  A  very  superior  clingstone 
Plum,  of  large  size,  and  oblong  form  ;  the  skin  dark  purple;  flesh  sweet, 
juicy,  rich  and  excellent;  ripe  in  September.  This  variety,  from  being 
imported  by  Mr.  Duane,  of  New  York,  was  named  after  him,  as  he  had  lost 
the  original  name. 

Early  Ohlkans,  Neiu  Orleans,  Early  Monsieur,  Monsieur  Hatif.  A 
fine  freestone  plum,  above  medium  size;  form  round;  its  sature  deep; 
colour  dark  purple,  covered  with  a  fine  bloom;  flesh  greenish  yellow,  of 
excellent  flavour  ;  sweet,  combined  with  a  pleasant  acid  ;  it  ripens  in 
August. 

Early  Tours,  Precose  de  Tours,  Early  Violet.  The  tree  is  vigorous 
and  fertile;  fruit  small,  oval,  dark  purple  covered  with  fine  bloom;  flesh 
greenish  yellow,  tender,  juicy,  and  of  very  agreeable  flavour;  one  of  the 
best  early  varieties,  and  very  productive  ;  ripe  at  the  end  of  July. 

Elfry.  Frencfi  Cooper  of  Prince.  A  native  clingstone  Plum,  highly 
esteemed  in  Pennsylvania  and  New-Jersey  for  its  productiveness  and 
other  good  qualities;  the  fruit  is  below  medium  size,  of  oblong  shape  and 
dark  blue  colour;  flesh  firm,  very  rich  and  delicious  ;  in  September. 

German  Prune,  Prune  d' All' magne,  Dumas  Gros,  QuetKche.  Quetzen. 
The  fruit  of  the  Quetsche  Plum  is  grown  for  the  purpose  of  drying,  and  ia 
considered  the  be<t  for  use  as  prunes  ;  fruit  below  the  middle  size  ;  of  an 
oval  figure  ;  skin  red  and  purple  ;  flesh  yellow  ;  juice  sweet,  with  a  slight 
acid  ;  ripe  early  in  September. 

Goliath,  Gidiafi,  St.  Cloud,  Caledonian.  WilmoVs  late  Orleans.  This 
fruit  is  very  large,  sometimes  weighing  four  ounces;  the  skin  is  a  deep 
reddish  purple  ;  the  flesh  pale  yellow,  firm,  and  well  flavoured,  but  not 
rich,  slightly  adhering  to  the  stone  ;  the  tree  is  a  great  bearer,  and  the  fruit 
i»  much  used  for  cooking  ;  ripe  in  September. 


128  DESCRIPTIVE    LIST    OF    PLUMS. 

Green  Gage,  Great  Queen  Claude,  Dauphine,  Grosse  Reine  Claude, 
Abricot  Vert,  Verfe  Bonne,  Gros  Danias  Vert.  A  middle  sized  round 
fruit,  of  a  yellowish  green  colour,  and  purplish  russetty  red  next  the  sun  ; 
the  flesh  is  of  a  greenish  hue,  melting,  with  an  abundance  of  very  sweet  and 
highly  perfumed  juice,  of  an  exquisite  taste  ;  it  arrives  at  maturity  toward 
the  end  of  August. 

HoBsE  Plum,  Large  Sweet  Damson.  Fruit  of  medium  size,  oval, 
with  a  deep  sature  in  the  middle  ;  skin  dark  red,  inclining  to  purple  when 
ripe;  flesh  greenish  yellow;  juice  acid  but  agreeable.  Quantities  of 
these  Plums  are  sold  in  the  New-York  markets  in  August  and  September, 
for  sweetmeats.  The  trees  are  generally  raised  from  suckers;  and  Peaches, 
Apricots,  and  Nectarines,  will  bud  and  thrive  well  on  such  stocks. 

Huf.ing's  Superb,  Keyser's  Plum.  This  Plum  is  of  monstrous  size, 
and  has  been  known  to  weigh  nearly  four  ounces  ;  it  is  of  roundish  form, 
and  of  a  greenish  yellow  colour  ;  the  flesh  is  sweet  and  excellent.  It  was 
raised  from  seed  by  Mr.  Keyser,  of  Pennsylvania,  and  brought  into  notice 
by  Dr.  Wm.  Hulings,  of  that  State. 

Impf.ratrice,  I'liperatrice  Violette,  Blue  Imperatrice.  Simiana  of 
some  culltctinns.  One  of  the  best  of  late  clingstone  Plums  ;  fruit  medium 
size,  oval  ;  skin  rich  deep  purple,  covered  with  bloom  ;  flesh  yellowish 
green,  a  little  firm,  very  sweet,  rich  and  juicy  ;  the  fruit  hangs  long  on  the 
tree,  and  is  at  maturity  in  October  and  November. 

Imperial  Uiadem.  Red  Imperial,  Red  Diaper.  A  fine  fruit,  admira- 
bly adapted  for  culinary  purposes  ;  shape  oval  ;  colour  pale  red,  but  dark 
when  mature;  flesh  yellow,  and  separates  from  the  stone;  juice  plentiful 
when  perfectly  ripe,  which  is  early  in  September  ;  it  is  of  good  flavour, 
and  highly  perfumed. 

Italian  Damask,  Damas  <t Italic.  This  fruit  is  of  medium  size,  nearly 
round,  a  little  flattened  at  the  base  ;  its  colour  blue  or  violet,  and  covered 
with  a  purple  bloom  ;  its  flesh  is  yellow,  rich,  and  juicy,  and  the  tree, 
which  matures  its  fruit  in  August,  is  very  productive. 

Kirke's  Plum.  This  variety  is  said  to  be  as  hardy  and  prolific  as  the 
Orleans,  as  handsome  as  the  Damask,  and  as  good  as  the  Green  Gage ;  fruit 
large,  roundish  ;  skin  covered  with  a  close,  firm,  azure  bloom,  through 
which  appears  a  few  golden  specks  ;  flesh  greenish  yellow,  firm,  juicj'  and 
rich  ;  in  perfection  the  early  part  of  September. 

La  Rovale,  Rayale.  A  large  and  exrellent  freestone  Plum,  of  a  homely 
dull  red  colour,  but  concealed  by  a  thick  violet  or  azure  bloom  ;  flesh  fine, 
yellowish  green,  firm,  juicy,  high  flavoured  and  delicious  ;  a  superior 
plum  ;  at  maturity  early  in  September. 

Late  Purpi.e  Damson,  Purple  Winter  Damson,  Blue  Damascene,  Blue 
Damson.  This  variety  is  in  great  esteem  for  preserves,  and  generally 
commands  a  high  price.  It  is  of  a  dark  purple  colour,  covered  with  bloom; 
the  flesh  has  rather  too  much  acidity  for  a  table  fruit,  but  this  tartness 
gives  it  an  agreeable  flavour  when  cooked,  and  if  the  fruit  remains  on  the 
tree  until  November,  it  becomes  sweet. 

Lawrence  Gage,  Lawrence's  Favourite.  A  large  round  freestone 
Plum,  of  a  yellowish  green  colour,  tinged  with  red  ;  flesh  firm,  and  of  deli- 
cious flavour,  similar  to  the  Green  Gage.  The  tree  is  very  fertile,  and  yields 
an  abundance  of  Iruit  in  August  and  September. 

LucoiiEE's  NoKBUcH.     This  Pium  is  large,  compressed  at  the  summit 


DESCRIPTIVE    LIST    OF    PLUMS.  129 

and  base  ;  its  breadth  is  two  inches  ;  its  colour  at  maturity,  as  well  as  its 
form,  resemble  the  Green  Gage,  but  more  streaked  wiih  yellow;  flesh  firm, 
rich  and  juicy  ;  at  maturity  in  August ;  tree  a  good  bearer. 

Mimm's,  Minim's  Plum,  Diaper  Ruiigue.  The  fruit  is  very  large,  a 
little  oblong  ;  colour  bright  purple,  covered  with  thick  bloom  :  its  flesh, 
which  separates  from  the  stone,  is  yellowish  green,  tender,  juicy,  and  very 
agreeably  flavoured  ;  ripe  in  September. 

Morocco,  Early  Black  Damask,  Black  Damascus,  Black  Morocco,  Early 
Damask,  Early  Morocco,  This  is  considered  one  of  the  best  of  early 
Plums.  The  tree  is  very  hardy  and  productive ;  fruit  middle  sized, 
roundish  ;  skin  deep  blackish  purple,  covered  with  a  light  blue  bloom  ; 
flesh  greenish  yellow,  juicy,  rich,  and  high  flavoured;  ripe  early  in  August. 

Nectarine  Plum,  diledoniun,  HowelCs  Large,  Prune  Peche,  Jenkin's 
Imperial.  One  of  the  most  beautiful  Plums  known  ;  large,  nearly  round; 
the  skin  at  maturity  varies  from  red  to  crimson,  covered  with  azure  bloom; 
flesh  yellowish,  coarse  grained,  astringent ;  juice  abundant,  and  of  a  mild, 
pleasant  flavour  ;  at  maturity  in  July  and  early  in  August. 

New-York  Purple,  Brevoort's  Purple  Bolmar,  Brevonrl's  Purple 
Washington.  An  excellent  fruit,  raised  from  a  seed  of  Bolmar's  Washing- 
ton Plum,  that  had  been  impregnated  with  the  pollen  of  the  Blue  Gage, 
The  fruit  is  very  large;  skin  brown  red,  covered  with  purple  bloom  ;  flesh 
j'ellow,  of  a  rich  and  brisk  flavour,  and  adheres  to  the  stone  ;  ripe  towards 
the  end  of  August. 

October  Gage,  Frost  Gage.  A  beautiful  native  fruit,  a  drawing  of 
which  has  been  taken  from  nature,  and  may  be  found  in  "  Holly's  Orchard- 
ist's  Companion."  Fruit  of  medium  size ;  form  oblong ;  colour  dark 
brownish  purple,  covered  with  a  black  bloom  ;  flesh  firm  and  juicy  ;  fla- 
vour sprightly  and  agreeable  ;  ripe  early  in  October. 

Orleans  Plu.m,  Red  Damask,  Danias  Rouge,  Monsieur.  A  well 
known  and  productive  Plum  ;  of  medium  size,  and  somewhat  oval  form  ; 
the  skin  is  dark  red,  approaching  to  purple,  with  a  thin  blue  bloom  ; 
flesh  yellow,  firm  and  good,  separating  freely  from  the  stone  ;  ripe  in  August. 

Pond's  Purple,  Pond's  Seedling.  A  large  round  purple  clingstone  Plum, 
a  native  of  Massachusetts  ;  it  is  of  peculiar  rich  flavour,  not  apt  to  crack, 
and  is  well  adapted  for  the  markets.  The  tree  bears  wonderful  crops, 
which  ripen  in  August. 

Prince's  Imperial  Gage,  Flushing  Gage,  Superior  Green  Gage,  Whittt 
Gage.  This  tree  was  originated  at  the  Flushing  nursery,  from  a  seed  of 
the  Green  Gage.  The  fruit  is  one  of  the  finest  of  its  class  ;  the  skin  at  ma- 
turity is  yellow,  with  a  whitish  bloom  ;  the  flesh  is  rich,  luscious,  and  of 
excellent  flavour.  It  makes  fine  preserves,  if  gathered  toward  the  end  of 
August;  at  maturity  in  September. 

Princk's  Orange  Kgg-  A  large  splendid  orange  coloured  clingstone 
Plum,  of  oval  form,  and  of  peculiarly  rich  flavour;  ripe  in  August.  The 
tree  yields  abundant  crops  of  truly  beautiful  fruit,  which  is  never  attacked 
by  insects,  as  many  kinds  are. 

Prune  Suisse,  Simiana,  Prune d'Alf esse.  Monsieur  Tardif,  Swiss  Prune. 
Fruit  very  handsome,  round,  flattened;  colour  varying  from  bright  amber 
to  deep  red,  and  covered  with  azure  bloom  ;  flesh  yellow,  delicious,  melting, 
and  closely  adheres  to  the  stone ;  juice  very  abundant.  An  excellent 
fruit ;  ripening  in  September, 


130  DESCRIPTIVE    LIST    OF    PLUMS. 

PuRpi-E  Gage,  Blue  Gage,  Reine  Claude  V'olelfe,  Die  Violette,  Konigin 
Claudia.  This  fruit  is  of  medium  size,  almost  round,  and  may  be  con- 
sidered as  one  of  the  finest  varieties;  its  skin  is  of  a  violet  purple  colour, 
with  pale  yellow  dots,  and  covered  with  a  light  blue  bloom  ;  flesh  greenish 
amber,  rich,  saccharine,  and  high  flavoured :  at  maturity  in  August,  and 
good  until  October. 

Queen  Victokia,  Sharp's  Emperor,  Dennyer^s  Victoria.  An  excellent 
freestone  Plum,  as  large  as  the  Red  Mngnum  Bonuni ;  of  a  roundish  oval 
form,  and  red  colour,  covered  with  a  fine  bloom;  the  flesh  is  firm,  rich, 
juicy,  and  delicious.  The  tree  grows  very  strong,  and  yields  abundant 
crops  in  September. 

Rkd  Diaper,  Diapree  Rouge,  Roche  Corhon.  One  of  the  most  beau- 
tiful Plums  known;  form  oval,  above  medium  size;  colour  bright  red; 
flesh  greenish  yellow,  soft  and  sweet,  separating  from  the  stone  ;  the  fruit 
makes  excellent  prunes,  if  gathered  early  in  September,  and  like  the  Impe- 
ratrice,  will  hang  some  time  on  the  tree. 

Red  Magnum  Bonum,  Red  Imperial,  Imperial  Violelie  of  the  French. 
Purple  Egg  of  Prince  and  others.  A  Iara;e,  oval  Plum,  of  deep  red  colour, 
covered  with  blue  bloom  ;  the  flesh,  which  parts  from  the  stone,  is  harsh 
and  acid;  consequently  good  for  cooking,  preserves.  &c.;  in  September 
and  October. 

Red  Perdrigon,  Perdrigon  Rouge.  An  excellent  Plum,  of  the  first  class; 
of  medium  size,  oval  shape,  and  fine  red  colour,  with  gold  coloured  dots, 
and  a  fine  bloom;  flesh  bright  yellow,  transparent,  and  separates  from  the 
stone  ;  juice  sweet  and  delicious ;  ripe  early  in  September.  It  makes 
excellent  prunes,  not  inferior  to  the  White  Perdrigon. 

Red  Quken  Mother.  The  Plum  is  of  medium  size,  its  colour  bright 
red  and  yellow,  somewhat  spotted,  and  covered  with  pale  bloom  ;  its  flesh 
is  yellow,  sweet  and  excellent,  ripening  early  in  September.  A  very  pro- 
ductive variety,  and  highly  deserving  of  cultivation. 

RovAi,  DE  Tours.  The  tree  is  of  extraordinary  vigorous  growth  ;  its 
principal  stpm  rises  vertically  ;  the  fruit  is  globular,  of  medium  size;  red 
violet  colour,  and  covered  with  azure  bloom  ;  flesh  yellow,  fine,  good  ;  juice 
abundant  and  sweet  •  ripens  early  in  August. 

Saikt  Catharine.  A  medium  sized,  oblong  fruit;  skin  bright  gold 
colour,  spotted  with  red  at  maturity,  and  covered  with  bloom  ;  flesh  yel- 
low, tender,  sweet,  and  fine  flavour;  ripens  early  in  September,  and  will 
hang  some  time  on  the  tree.  A  good  market  Plum,  for  which  purpose  it  is 
much  cultivated. 

Smith's  Orleans.  This  variety  is  held  in  great  esteem  as  a  market 
fruit;  the  trees  are  free  from  gum  and  insects,  and  yields  abundant  crops 
of  large  freestone  Plums,  of  an  oval  form  and  purple  colour.  The  fruit 
ripens  gradually  in  September. 

Surpasse  Monsieur.  A  large  fruit,  of  oval  form,  and  of  a  dark  red 
purplish  colour,  raised  by  a  Mr.  Noisette  ;  it  is  said  to  be  more  beautiful 
and  perfumed  than  the  Monsieur,  and  the  tree  yields  suckers,  which  pro- 
duce fruit  in  all  their  beauty  and  excellence  ;  in  September. 

Virgin  ALE,  White  Virginal.  This  fruit  ranks  among  the  best  of 
plums  ;  its  shape  is  round  ;  colour  yellowish,  touched  with  violet  or  rose, 
and  covered  with  dense  bloom ;  flesh  melting,  juice  abundant,  and  very 
agreeatile ;  it  adheres  to  the  stone ;  ripe  in  September. 


QUINCE.  131 

Washington,  New  IVashingfim,  Bolmars  Washington,  Franklin.  A 
very  large,  globular  Plum,  inclining  to  oval;  colour  greenish  yellow,  with 
crimson" specks,  covered  with  a  rich  bloom.  This  Plum  has  sometimes 
weighed  over  four  ounces  ;  its  flesh  is  yellow,  firm,  sweet  and  delicious ; 
in  August.  This  variety  originated  in  New-York,  from  suckers  of  an  old 
root,  the  tree  of  which  had  been  some  time  previously  destroyed  by  light- 
ning. 

VVhite  Magnum  Bonum,  Yellow  Magnum  Boniim,  Gros  Luiisante,  Im- 
periale  Blanche,  Egg  Plum.  White  Mngul,  White  Holland.  This  fruit  is 
of  extraordinary  size,  oval ;  yellow,  covered  with  pale  bloom  ;  the  flesh  yel- 
low, firm,  closely  adhering  to  the  stone  ;  excellent  for  cooking  and  pre- 
serves ;  in  September. 

White  Perdrigon,  Perdrigon  Blanc.  A  middle  sized,  oblong  fruit,  of  a 
pale  yellow,  with  red  spots,  and  covered  with  white  bloom ;  flesh  yellow, 
rich,  saccharine  and  juicy,  separating  from  the  stone;  it  ripens  in  August 
and  September. 


QUINCE. 
CoiGNAssiER.     Cydonia. 

The  Quince  is  of  low  growth,  much  branched,  and  gene- 
rally crooked  and  distorted.  The  leaves  are  roundish,  or 
ovate,  entire,  above  dusky  green,  underneath  whitish,  on 
short  petioles.  The  flowers  are  large,  white,  or  pale  red, 
and  appear  in  May  and  June  ;  the  fruit,  a  pome,  varying 
in  shape  in  the  different  varieties,  globular,  oblong,  or  ovate; 
it  has  a  peculiar  and  rather  disagreeable  smell,  and  austere 
taste.  The  fruit  takes  its  name  from  being  a  native  of  the 
ancient  town  of  Cydon,  in  the  Island  of  Crete ;  some  sup- 
pose it  to  be  a  corruption  of  Mains  coionea,  by  which  the 
Latins  designated  the  fruit.  It  is  used  as  a  marmalade  for 
flavouring  apple  pies,  and  makes  an  excellent  sweetmeat ; 
and  it  has  the  advantage  over  many  other  fruits  for  keeping, 
if  properly  managed. 

Of  the  several  sorts,  the  following  are  in  greatest  esteem  : 
1.  The  oblong,  or  Pear  Quince,  with  ovate  leaves,  and  an 
oblono-  fruit  lengthened  at  the  base.  2.  The  Apple  Quince, 
with  ovate  leaves,  and  a  rounder  fruit.  3.  The  Portugal 
Quince,  the  fruit  of  which  is  more  juicy  and  less  harsh  thaw 


132  RASPBERRY. 

the  preceding,  and  therefore  the  most  valuable.  It  is  rather 
a  shy  bearer,  but  is  highly  esteemed,  as  the  pulp  has  the 
property  of  assuming  a  fine  purple  tint  in  the  course  of  being 
prepared  as  a  marmalade.  4.  The  mild  or  eatable  Quince, 
being  less  austere  and  astringent  than  the  others.  5.  The 
Orange  Qliince,  a  very  handsome  fruit  of  peculiar  rich  fla 
Tour.  6.  The  Musk  or  Pine  Apple  Quince,  very  large  and 
beautiful. 

The  Quince  produces  the  finest  fruit  when  planted  in  a 
soft,  moist  soil,  and  rather  shady,  or  at  least  sheltered  situa 
tion.  It  is  generally  propagated  by  layers,  and  also  by  cut- 
tings, and  approved  sorts  may  be  perpetuated  by  grafting. 
In  propagating  for  stocks,  nothing  more  is  necessary  than 
to  remove  the  lower  shoots  from  the  layer,  so  as  to  preserve 
a  clear  stem  as  high  as  the  graft;  but  for  fruit-bearing 
trees,  it  is  necessary  to  train  the  stem  to  a  rod,  till  it  has 
attained  four  or  five  feet  in  height,  and  can  suppoit  itself 
upright. 

Wlien  planted  in  an  orchard,  the  trees  may  be  placed  ten 
or  twelve  feet  apart.  The  time  of  planting,  the  mode  of 
bearing,  and  all  the  other  particulars  of  culture,  are  the 
same  as  for  the  Apple  and  Pear.  The  chief  pruning  they 
require,  is  to  keep  them  free  from  suckers,  and  cut  out 
decayed  wood. 


RASPBERRY. 

Framboisier.     Rubns,  etc. 

There  are  several  species  of  the  Rnbiis  found  wild  in 
various  parts  of  Asia,  Eui'ope,  and  America,  some  of  which 
have  upright  stems,  others  prostrate  ;  the'  American  Stone 
Bramble,  and  also  the  common  Blackberry,  Dewberry, 
Cloudberry,  &c.  are  of  this  family.  The  Rulms  iducus,  or 
common  Raspberry,  grows  spontaneously  in  the  province  of 


RASPBERRY.  133 

New  Brunswick,  and  in  various  parts  of  the  United  States, 
but  most  of  the  cultivated  varieties  are  supposed  to  have 
originated  in  England.  Loudon  describes  the  true  Rasp- 
berry as  having  "stems  which  are  suffructicose,  upright, 
rising  to  the  height  of  several  feet,  and  are  biennial  in  du- 
ration ;  but  the  root  is  perennial,  producing  suckeis  which 
ripen  and  drop  their  leaves  one  year,  and  resume  their 
foliage,  produce  blossom  shoots,  flower,  and  fruit,  and  die 
the  next.  The  leaves  are  quinate-pinnate  ;  the  flowers 
come  in  panicles  from  the  extremity  of  the  present  year's 
shoots  ;  they  are  white,  appear  in  JNIay  and  June,  and  the 
fruit  forms  about  a  fortnight  afterward." 

The  fruit  is  grateful  to  most  palates,  as  nature  presents 
it,  but  sugar  improves  the  flavour;  accordingly  it  is  much 
esteemed  when  made  into  sweetmeats,  and  for  jams,  tarts, 
and  sauces.  It  is  fragrant,  sub-acid,  and  cooling;  allays 
heat  and  thirst.  It  is  much  used  in  distilling.  "  Raspberry- 
syrup  is  next  to  the  Strawberry  in  dissolving  the  tartar  of 
the  teeth  ;  and  as,  like  that  fruit,  it  does  not  undergo  the 
acetous  fermentation  in  the  stomach,  it  is  recommended  to 
gouty  and  rheumatic  patients." 

Nicol  enumerates  twenty-three  species  and  varieties  of  the 
cultivated  Raspberry,  and  twenty-one  of  the  Rubus  ronce,  or 
Bramble  ;  in  the  latter  is  included  the  American  Red  and 
Black  Raspberry,  the  Long  Island  and  Virginian  Raspber- 
ry;  also  the  Ohio  Ever-Bearing,  and  the  Pennsylvania 
Raspberry.  The  English  varieties  are,  early  Small  White; 
Large  White;  Large  Red;  most  Large  Red  Antwerp  ;  Large 
Yellow  Antwerp  ;  Cane,  or  smooth-stalked;  Twice-bearino- 
White;  Tvvice-beaiing  Red;  Smooth  Cane,  twice-bearing; 
Woodward's  Raspberry;  Monthly,  or  Four  Season;  Dwarf 
Red  Cane;  Victoria  Raspberry;  Large  Red  Francohia; 
Mason's  Red  Cluster;  McKeen's  Scarlet  Prolific;  Chili 
Red;  Cornish  Red;  Cox's  Honey;  Brentford  Red ;  Brent- 
ford White;   Flesh-coloured;     Barnet  Red;  Bromley  Hill; 


134  RASPBERRY. 

Cretan  Red;  Prolific  Red;  Canada  Purple;  Rose-flower- 
ing, &c. 

The  varieties  can  be  perpetuated  by  young  sucker  shoots, 
rising  plenteously  from  the  root  in  spring  and  summer; 
when  these  have  completed  one  season's  growth,  they  are 
proper  to  detach  with  roots  for  planting,  either  in  the  autumn 
of  the  same  year,  or  the  next  spring,  in  March  or  early  in 
April.  These  new  plants  will  bear  some  fruit  the  first  year, 
and  furnish  a  succession  of  strong  bottom  shoots  for  full 
bearing  the  second  season.  New  varieties  are  raised  from 
seed,  and  they  come  into  bearing  the  second  year.  Some 
of  the  American  species  are  cultivated  by  layers,  which  pro- 
duce fruit  the  same  year. 

Raspberry  beds  are  in  their  prime  about  the  third  and 
fourth  year;  and,  if  well  managed,  continue  in  perfection 
five  or  six  years,  after  which  they  are  apt  to  decline  in 
growth,  and  the  fruit  to  become  &mall,  so  that  a  successive 
plantation  should  be  provided  in  time.  Select  new  plants 
from  vigorous  stools  in  full  perfection  as  to  bearing.  Be 
careful  to  favour  the  twice  bearers  with  a  good  mellow  soil, 
in  a  sheltered  situation,  in  order  that  the  second  crop  may 
come  to  perfection. 

When  Raspberries  are  cultivated  on  a  large  scale,  it  is 
best  to  plant  them  hj  beds  by  themselves,  in  rows  from 
three  to  five  feet  apart,  according  to  the  kinds.  In  small 
gardens,  they  may  be  planted  in  detached  stools,  or  in  single 
rows,  in  different  parts  of  the  garden,  from  the  most  sunny 
to  the  most  shady  aspect,  for  early  and  late  fruit  of  improved 
growth  and  flavour.  It  is  requisite  to  cut  out  the  dead 
stems  early  in  the  spring,  and  to  thin  and  regulate  the  suc- 
cessional  young  shoots ;  at  the  same  time,  the  shoots  re- 
tained should  be  pruned  at  the  top,  below  the  weak  bending 
part,  and  some  rotten  dung  worked  in  around  the  roots  of 
the  plants.  Keep  them  clear  of  weeds  during  the  summer, 
by  hoeing  between  the  rows ;  at  the  same  time  eradicate  all 


DESCRIPTIVE    LIST    OF    RASPBERRIES.  135 

superfluous  suckers,  but  be    careful    to    retain  enough    for 
stock  in  succeeding  years. 

The  Antwerp  and  other  tender  varieties  of  the  Raspberry 
are  hable  to  be  more  or  less  injured  by  the  severity  of  our 
winters;  to  prevent  which,  they  should  be  protected  by 
bending  them  down  to  the  ground  late  in  autumn,  and 
covering  them  with  earth  five  or  six  inches,  slojjing  it  off  so 
as  to  prevent  injury  from  rain  or  snow. 


SELECT  DESCRIPTIVE  LIST  OF  RASPBERRIES. 

American  Black,  BU'ck  Cap.  This  fruit  is  of  smallish  size,  and  ripens 
in  June  and  July.     It  is  a  favourite  with  some. 

American  Rkd,  Etiglish  Red,  Common  Red.  This  variety  is  much 
cultivated  for  the  market.     The  fruit  ripens  in  June  and  July,  successively. 

Antwerp  Red  La?-ge  Red  Antwerp,  Hnivlnnd's  Red  Antwerp,  Burley. 
This  species  is  rather  tender,  on  which  account  the  branches  must  be  bent 
down  in  autumn,  and  covered  with  soil.  See  Calendar.  The  fruit  is  larga 
and  beautiful,  of  delicious  llavour,  and  quite  fragrant ;  in  June  and  July. 

Antwerp  White,  Yelloiv  Antwerp.  This  is  also  tender  or  half  hardy, 
but  very  prolific;  the  fruit  is  large,  of  a  pale  yellow  colour,  and  much 
esteemed.     It  ripens  in  June  and  July. 

Barnet,  CormvullUi  Prolific,  Lord  Exmouth,  Large  Red.  This  is  con- 
sidered a  first-rate  fruit,  and  yields  abundantly;  in  June  and  July. 

Bee  Hive.  A  new  variety,  introduced  by  Messrs.  Winter  &  Co.,  of  the 
Linnrean  Botanic  Garden,  Flushing.  The  fruit  is  large,  of  round  shape 
and  red  colour  ;  ripe  in  July. 

Cornish,  Large  Cornish.  A  hardy  and  highly  productive  variety, 
yielding  an  abundance  of  Red  Berries  in  June  and  July. 

Double  Bearing  Red,  Twice  Bearing.  This  species  is  very  prolific, 
producing  its  first  crop  in  July,  and  another  in  October. 

F'lesh  Coloured,  Fra niboisier  couleiir  de  chair.  A  new  variety,  im- 
ported by  W.  R..  Prince  &  Co.,  from  France.  It  is  described  as  an  highly 
flavoured  and  much  esteemed  fruit. 

Franconia,  Red  Franconia.  This  variety  is  in  great  repute  for  its 
productiveness  and  the  fineness  of  its  fruit,  which  ripens  gradually  in  July. 

Monthly  or  Four  Seasons,  Perpetual  Bearing-  This  species,  if 
planted  in  a  shady  situation,  will  produce  successional  crops  throughout 
the  summer. 

Red  Tall  Cane.  There  are  several  species  of  the  Cane  Raspberry, 
some  of  which  are  worthless.  The  Tall  Red  Cane  produces  fine  fruit  in 
July  and  August,  and  very  frequently  in  autumn. 

Victoria.  This  Queen  of  Raspberries  has  been  imported  by  W.  R. 
Prince,  and  plants  are  offered  for  sale  at  his  nursery  at  Flushing,  for  twen- 
ty-five cents  each. 


136  STRAWBERRY. 

STRAWBERRY. 

Fraisier.      Fragaria. 

This  is  a  genus  of  fruit-bearing  herbaceous  plants,  of 
which  there  are  few  in  the  vegetable  kingdom  that  can 
equal  the  Strawberry  in  wholesomeness  and  excellence. 
The  fruit  is  supposed  to  receive  its  name  from  the  ancient 
practice  of  laying  straw  between  the  rows,  which  keeps  the 
ground  moist  and  the  fruit  clean.  They  are  natives  of  tem- 
perate, or  cold  climates,  as  of  Europe  and  America.  The 
fruit,  though  termed  a  berry,  is,  in  correct  botanical  lan- 
guage, a  fleshy  receptacle,  studded  with  seeds.  It  is  univer- 
sally grateful  alone,  or  with  sugar,  cream,  or  wine,  and  has 
the  property,  so  valuable  for  acid  stomachs,  of  not  under- 
going the  acetous  fermentation.  Physicians  concur  in 
placing  Strawberries  in  their  small  catalogue  of  pleasant 
remedies ;  as  having  properties  which  render  them,  in  most 
conditions  of  the  animal  frame,  positively  salutary  ;  they 
dissolve  the  tartareous  incrustations  of  the  teeth  ;  they  pro- 
mote perspiration.  Persons  afflicted  with  the  gout  have 
found  relief  from  using  them  very  largely;  so  have  patients 
in  case  of  the  stone;  and  Hoffman  states,  that  he  has  known 
consumptive  people  cured  by  them.  The  bark  of  the  root 
is  astringent. 

In  cultivating  the  Sti'awberry,  an  open  situation  and  rich 
loamy  soil,  rather  strong,  is  required  for  most  varieties;  and 
from  their  large  mass  of  foliage  and  flowers,  they  must,  till 
the  fruit  is  set,  have  copious  supplies  of  water.  The  row 
culture  is  best  calculated  to  produce  fruit ;  and  frequent 
renewal  insures  vigorous  plants,  as  well  as  large  fruit.  Some 
plant  them  in  single  rows,  from  twelve  to  eighteen  inches 
apart,  according  to  the  sorts ;  others  form  a  bed  with  four 
rows.  If  several  beds  be  intended,  a  space  of  two  or  three 
feet  may  be  left  between  each  bed  as  a  path ;  and  in  the 
second  or  third  season,  the  paths  may  be  manured  and  dug, 


STRAWBERRT.  137 

to  admit  of  the  runners  taking  root;  by  tins  means,  a 
renewal  may  be  made  so  often,  and  the  old  stools  bein"- 
taken  away,  leaves  spaces  between  the  beds  as  before.  Or, 
new  plantations  may  be  made  every  season;  because,  after 
the  roots  are  fairly  established,  they  multiply  spontaneously, 
as  well  by  suckers  from  the  parent  stem,  as  by  numerous 
runners ;  all  of  which,  rooting  and  forming  a  plant  at  every 
joint,  require  only  removal  to  a  spot  where  there  is  room 
for  them  to  flourish.  If  taken  off,  and  planted  in  rows  in 
August  and  September,  they  will  produce  fine  fruit  the  fol- 
lowing season,  and  will  bear  in  full  perfection  the  second 
summer;  some,  however,  prefer  spring  planting,  which 
answers  very  well,  if  done  in  damp  weather. 

A  plantation  of  the  Alpine  yields  fruit  the  same  year  that 
it  is  made.  The  Wood  and  the  Alpine  are  often  cultivated 
from  seed,  which  generally  produces  fine  fruit.  The  other 
species  are  uniformly  proj^agated  by  offsets,  except  the  inten- 
tion be  to  try  for  new  varieties.  The  Alpine  and  Wood 
species  may  be  planted  in  situations  rather  cool  and  shady, 
in  order  that  they  may  produce  their  fruit  late  in  the  season, 
which  is  desirable.  The  Strawberry,  with  a  little  trouble 
of  choosing  a  succession  of  sorts,  may  be  forced  so  as  to  be 
had  at  the  dessert  every  month  in  the  year  ;  though,  during 
the  winter  months,  they  have  not  much  flavour. 

Some  gardeners  lay  straw  an  inch  or  two  thick  over  their 
beds  in  March,  and  set  fire  to  it,  in  order  to  promote  a 
stocky  growth  of  plants  and  early  fruit;  others  recommend 
mowing  off  the  tops  of  such  as  are  not  required  to  fruit 
early,  while  they  are  in  blossom,  with  a  view  to  obtain  a 
crop  of  Strawberries  late  in  the  season. 

The  London  Horticultural  Catalogue  contains  the  names 
of  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  varieties  of  all  the  species, 
which  are  classed  according  to  their  nature,  colour,  &c. 
Class  1.  Scarlet  Strawberries;  2.  Black  Strawberries;  3. 
Pine  Strawben-ies ;  4.  Chili  Strawberries ;  5.  Hautboia 
Strawberries;    Green   Strawberries;    7.  Alpine  and   Wood 


13S  DESCUIPTIVE    LIST    OF    STRAWBERRIES. 

Strawberries.  To  select  all  the  most  esteemed  from  this, 
or  any  other  extensive  catalogue,  is  a  difficult  task  ;  the  fol- 
lowing description  of  species  and  varieties  may  serve  to 
direct  the  choice  : — 


SELECT  DESCRIPTIVE  LIST  OF  STRAWBERRIES. 

The  Wood  Strawberby,  Fragaria  vesea,  with  oval  serrated  leaves  ;  tlie 
fruit  red.  white,  and  green,  which  is  round  and  snnall.  A  native  of  Britain. 
Some  of  the  varieties  are  in  great  repute,  as  they  are  very  productive,  and 
continue  long  in  bearing. 

The  Scarlet.  Fragaria  Virginiana,  with  leaves  like  the  preceding;  the 
fruit  roundish  and  scarlet-coloured.  A  native  of  Virginia.  Varieties — 
Methven  Scarlet,  Knight's  Scarlet,  Austrian  Scarlet,  Early  Scarlet,  Wilmot's 
late,  Common  late,  Wilmot's  Early  Scarlet,  &c. 

The  RosEBERRy,  Fragaria,  Virg  var.  An  Aberdeen  seedling,  intro- 
duced in  1810.  The  plants  have  few  roundish  leaves,  larger  fruit  than  the 
scarlet,  and  are  very  prolific ;  continues  bearing  till  August. 

Thf,  Black  var.  Downton,  Dark  Scarlet  Strawberry,  originated  by  Mr. 
Knight.  The  fruit  is  large,  irregular,  and  cockscomb-like  ;  plant  hardy  and 
prolific. 

The  Carolina,  Fragaria  Carolinensis;  colour  dark  red  ;  a  native  of 
America.  There  are  several  choice  varieties  of  this  fruit,  as — Elton's  Seed- 
ling, Keen's  Seedling,  Mulberry,  Wilmot's  Black  Imperial,  Blood  Pine, 
North's  Seedling,  Knevet's  Seedling,  &c 

The  Musky,  oh  Hautbois,  Fragaria  elatier,  with  oval,  rough,  javelin- 
edged  leaves.  A  native  of  Britain.  Varieties — Black  Hautbois.  White 
Hautbois,  Globe  Hautbois,  Conical  Hautbois,  Double  or  Twice  Bearing, 
producing  delicious  fruit  in  .«pring  and  autumn. 

The  Chii  I,  Fragaria  Chiliensis,  with  large,  oval,  thick,  hairy  leaves, 
and  large  flowers  ;  tho  fruit  large  and  very  firm  ;  a  native  of  South  Ameri- 
ca. Wilmot's  Suberb,  or  Large  Cockscomb  Scarlet,  Knight's  Seedling,  and 
Greenwell's  New  Giant,  are  highly  esteemed  varieties. 

Keen's  Imperial,  or  New  Chili,  Fragaria  Chili  var.,  raised  by  Mr. 
Keen,  of  Isleworth,  a  most  excellent  bearer,  ripening  early.  The  fruit  is 
very  large;  the  flesh  firm  and  solid,  without  any  separate  core:  colour 
scarlet. 

The  Alpine,  or  Prolific, fra^flna  collina,  commonXy  lasts  from  June 
till  November,  and  in  mild  seasons  till  near  Christmas  ;  the  varieties  of  this 
fruit  are  red  and  white.     Natives  of  the  Alps  of  Europe. 

The  One-Leaved,  Fragaria  monophylla,  the  pulp  of  the  fruit,  pink- 
coloured.     A  native  of  South  America. 

The  following  varieties  have  been  lately  propagated  from 
some  of  the  above  species  : — 


DESCRIPTIVE    LIST    OF    STRAWBERRIES.  139 

Bishop's  Orange,  Bishop^s  Globe,  BMop's  New.  Fruit  large,  of  round- 
ish or  connical  form  ;  orange  scarlet  colour,  and  very  delicious  flavour  ; 
ripe  early  in  July. 

Garnstone  Scarlet.  A  fine,  highly  esteemed  scarlet  variety,  of  large 
size,  roundish  form  and  peculiarly  rich  flavour,  which  ripens  early  in 
June. 

Elton-,  Elfo)i  Pine  Strawberry,  Fruit  very  large  ;  form  heart  shaped, 
or  obtusely  conical;  colour  bright  dark  scarlet ;  flesh  firm,  rosy  red  ;  flavour 
very  rich,  spicy,  aromatic  and  agreeable.  A  beautiful  drawing  of  this  fruit 
is  given  in  "  Hoffy's  Orchardist's  Companion,"  from  whence  the  above 
description  was  taken. 

Grove  End  Scarlet,  Atkinson's  Scarlet.  A  seedling  raised  by  Wm. 
Atkinson,  at  Grove  End,  Marylebone,  in  1820;  fruit  large,  oblate,  of  a 
bright  Vermillion  colour,  and  rich  flavour  ;  ripe  by  the  middle  of  June. 

HovEv's  Seedling-  This  favourite  variety  was  raised  by  Messrs.  Hovey 
&  Co..  of  Boston,  in  1S34.  Fruit  very  large  ;  form  round,  or  slightly 
ovate,  conical  ;  colour  deep  shining  red,  paler  in  the  shade  ;  flesh  scarlet, 
and  firm,  abounding  in  an  agreeable  acid,  and  high  flavoured  juice,  not  sur- 
passed by  any  other  variety  ;  ripe  early  in  July. 

Hudson's  Bat,  American  Scarlet,  Velvet  Scarlet,  Large  Hudson.  Fruit 
large,  of  ovate  form;  represented  by  Mr.  Downing  as  the  best  for  market ; 
early  in  July. 

Monthly  Red  Alpine.  Fruit  of  medium  size,  and  conical  form  ;  con- 
tinues bearing  fruit  moderately  from  June  till  winter. 

Myatt's  British  Queen.  Thefruit  of  this  celebrated  variety  is  said  to 
be  of  monstrous  size ;  in  form  roundish,  and  in  quality  first-rate  ;  about 
the  middle  of  July. 

Myatt's  Pine.  A  medium  sized  fruit  of  ovate  form,  and  very  rich  fla- 
voured ;  ripening  in  July. 

Prince  Albert.  A  new  variety  lately  raised  in  London,  represented 
as  a  large  fruit  of  ovate  form,  very  splendid  in  appearance,  and  delicious 
in  flavour  ;  ripe  in  July. 

Prince's  New  Pine.  An  excellent  seedling  variety  of  large  size  and 
ovate  form.     Raised  by  Wm.  R.  Prince,  of  Flushing ;  ripe  early  in  July. 

RosEBERRY  Montevideo,  Montevideo  Early  Scarlet.  An  improved 
American  seedling,  from  the  common  Roseberry  :  of  large  size,  conical 
form,  and  fine  flavour;  ripe  early  in  July. 

Swainstone's  Seedling.  This  variety  is  described  as  large,  ovate,  and 
of  the  very  first  quality,  ripening  one  crop  early  in  June,  and  a  second  crop 
in  autumn. 

Victoria,  Higgins's  Seedling.  The  fruit  of  this  variety  is  greatly 
esteemed  :  it  is  extra  large,  of  roundish  form,  and  exquisite  flavour  ;  early 
in  July. 

Warren's  Seedling,  Warren's  Met/iven.  This  is  represented  as  a 
peculiar  fruit,  being  of  lalrge  size,  and  in  form  nearly  flat ;  it  is  moreover  of 
a  rich  pine-apple  flavour,  and  yields  abundantly  throughout  the  month  of 
July. 

White  Bush  Alpine,  New  White  Alpine.  A  medium  sized  berry,  of 
ovate  form  and  agreeable  flavour :  the  plant  has  no  runners,  and  ripens  its 
A'uitin  June  and  July. 


140  WALNUT. 

All  the  species  and  varieties  of  this  fruit  are  highly  esti- 
mated in  Britain,  where  they  are  cultivated  in  great  perfec- 
tion. Berries  have  been  known  to  weigh  from  one  to  two 
ounces,  which  have  been  grown  to  the  circumference  of 
eight  inches  and  upward.  It  may  be  gi'atifying  to  the  lovers 
of  this  excellent  fruit  to  be  informed  that  some  of  the  best 
kinds  are  attainable  here.  The  late  Jesse  Buel,  Esq.,  of 
Albany,  informed  us,  in  the  Albany  Argus,  of  June  23,  1830, 
that  he  had  grown  the  Downton,  (a  variety  of  the  Chili, 
crossed  ])y  Mr.  Knight,)  two  years  in  succession,  4J  inches 
in  circumference.  He  said,  that  "  he  picked  a  pailful  that 
morning  of  the  Methven  Scarlet  Strawberry,  which  had  an 
average  circumference  of  three  inches  each.  Several  mea- 
sured four  inches,  and  one  four  and  a  quarter  inches.  Sixty- 
three,  divested  of  the  calyx,  wei.ghed  a  pound,  which  is  a 
trifle  more  than  four  to  the  ounce."  Several  of  the  choicest 
kinds  have  been  lately  transplanted  from  the  London  Socie- 
ty's Garden  into  the  American  Nurseries,  and  some  fine 
native  seedlings  have  been  lately  propagated,  which  will 
bear  comparison  with  many  of  the  best  foreign  varieties. 


WALNUT. 

NoYER,     Juglans. 

From  the  circumstance  of  our  having  an  abundance  of  the 
fruit,  from  the  many  species  of  this  genus  of  trees  growing 
spontaneously  around  us,  it  is  presumed  that  the  culture  of 
the  Jno;laiis  regia,  commonly  called  English  Walnut,  or 
Madeira  Nut,  has  been  neglected  by  many  of  our  citizens. 
It  is  a  native  of  Persia,  and  is  cultivated  in  France,  England, 
and  in  other  parts  of  Europe,  both  as  a  fruit  and  timber 
tree.  The  fruit,  in  England,  is  mnch  used  in  a  green  state 
for  pickling,  and  also  as  an  adulteration  of  soy  sauce.  In 
France,  an  oil,  which  supplies  the  place  of  that  of  Almonds, 


WALNUT.  141 

is  made  ffom  tlie  kernel.  In  Spain,  they  strew  tlio  gratings 
of  old  and  hard  nuls,  first  peeled,  into  their  tarts  and  other 
meats.  The  leaves  strewed  on  the  ground,  and  left  there, 
annoy  moles,  or  macerated  in  warm  water,  afford  a  liquor 
which  will  destroy  them.  The  unripe  fruit  is  used  in  medi- 
cine for  the  purpose  of  destroying  worms  in  the  human 
body.  Pliny  says,  "the  more  Walnuts  one  eats,  with  the 
more  ease  will  he  drive  worms  out  of  the  stomach." 

The  timber  is  considered  lighter,  in  proportion  to  its 
strength  and  elasticity,  than  any  other,  and  therefore  com- 
monly used  in  England  for  gun  stocks.  It  is  used  in  cabi- 
net work  in  most  parts  of  Europe;  the  young  timber  is 
allowed  to  make  the  finest  coloured  w6rk,  but  the  old  to  be 
finest  variegated  for  ornament.  When  propagated  for  tim- 
ber, the  nut  is  sown  ;  but  when  fruit  is  the  object,  inarching 
from  the  branches  of  fruit -bearing  trees  is  preferable.  Bud- 
ding is  also  practised  by  some ;  the  buds  succeed  best  when 
taken  from  the  base  of  the  annual  shoots  ;  ordinary  sized 
buds  from  the  upper  part  of  such  shoots  generally  fail. 

Walnut  trees  that  have  not  been  grafted  or  budded,  may 
be  induced  to  produce  blossoms  by  ringing  the  bark,  that  is, 
cutting  out  a  streak  of  the  bark  around  the  body  or  main 
branches  of  the  tree.  Walnut  trees  seldom  yield  much 
fruit  until  fifteen  or  twenty  years  old ;  it  is  produced  on  the 
extremities  of  the  preceding  year's  shoots.  The  trees  should 
stand  forty  or  fifty  feet  apart,  and  they  may  be  permitted  to 
branch  out  in  their  natural  order.  They  need  but  little 
pruning,  meiely  to  regulate  any  casual  disorderly  growth, 
to  reduce  over-extended  branches,  and  to  prune  up  the  low 
stragglers. 

Lest  any  of  our  native  Walnuts  should  be  neglected  or 
abandoned  by  any,  I  annex  a  description  of  the  different 
kinds  : 

Juglans  calharticus,  is  known  under  the  name  of  Butter- 
nut, Oilnut,  and  white  Walnut ;  these  nuts  are  used  by  the 
Indians  as  a  medicine. 


142  WALNUT. 

Juglans  nigra,  the  black  Walnut,  is  a  tree  of  large  size ; 
its  fruit  is  known  to  be  excellent. 

Juglans  olivotformis,  Pecan,  or  Illinois  nut,  is  delicious. 
The  nuts  of  Juglans  sulcata,  which  is  called  thick  shell  bark, 
Hickory,  and  Springfield,  and  Gloucester  nut,  are  large  and 
well-tasted.  The  shell  bark  Hickory,  shag  bark,  or  scaly 
bark  Hickory,  Juglans  alba,  is  so  called  on  account  of  its 
bark,  which  is  torn  lengthwise  in  long  loose  strips,  as  in  J. 
sulcata.  The  Juglans  tormentosa,  the  Mucker  nut,  white 
heart  Hickory,  or  common  Hickory,  and  most  of  the  other 
kinds  enumerated,  are  worth  pi'eserving ;  or  cultivating 
where  there  is  none,  for  its  timber  for  mechanical  purposes  ; 
and  that  of  the  Juglans  glabra,  or  Hog  nut,  is  useful  for 
brooms,  &c. 


143 


CALENDAR    AND    INDEX, 


JANUARY. 

•    The  clear  icicle  shines  in  the  sun's  faint  beam, 
Congealed  is  the  river,  the  lake,  and  the  stream, 
The  trees  are  all  leatless,  while  sullen  winds  roar, 
And  Nature  benumbed,  seems  her  fate  to  deplore. 

As  the  weather  at  this  season  of  the  year  is  generally 
unfavourable  to  any  employment  in  the  Orchard  or  Fruit 
Garden,  I  cannot  occupy  a  few  pages  more  appropriately 
than  in  directing  the  reader's  attention  to  subjects  connected 
with  improvements  in  the  several  species  and  varieties  of 
Fruits ;  for  it  must  be  admitted  that  there  is  no  kind  of 
fruit,  however  delicious,  that  may  not  be  deteriorated^  or 
however  worthless,  that  may  not  be  ameliorated,  by  particu- 
lar modes  of  management ;  so  that  after  a  given  variety 
shall  have  been  created,  its  merits  may  be  either  elicited  or 
destroyed  by  the  cultivator.  In  this  place  those  practices 
only  need  be  considered  that  tend  to  improvement. 

It  is  an  indubitable  fact,  that  all  our  fruits,  without  excep- 
tion, have  been  so  much  ameliorated  by  various  circum- 
stances, that  they  no  longer  bear  any  resemblance  in  respect 
of  quality  to  their  original.  Who,  for  instance,  would 
recognize  the  wild  parent  of  the  Green  Gage  Plum  in  the 
austere  Sloe,  or  that  of  the  delicious  Pippin  Apples  in  the 
Avorthless  acid  Crab  1  Or,  what  resemblance  can  be  traced 
between  our  famous  Beurre  Pears,  whose  flesh  is  so  succu- 
lent, lich  and  melting,  and  that  hard,  stony,  astringent  fruit, 
which  even  birds  and  animals  refuse  to  eat  1  Yet  these  are 
undoubted  cases  of  improvement,  resulting  from  time  and 
skill  patiently  and  constantly  in  action.  But  it  would  be  of 
little  service  to  mankind  that  the  quality  of  any  fruit  should 
be  improved,  unless  we  adopt  some  efficient  and   certain 


144  CALENDAR    AND    INDEX. 

motle  of  multiplying  the  individuals  when  obtained  Hence 
there  aie  two  great  objects  which  the  cullivator  should  aim 
at,  viz  Jimelioration  and  Propagation. 

In  jilanting  seed  for  the  purpose  of  procuring  improved 
varieties,  care  should  be  taken  not  only  that  the  seed  be 
selected  from  the  finest  existing  kinds,  but  also  that  the 
most  handsome,  the  largest,  and  the  most  perfectly  ripened 
specimens  should  be  those  that  supply  the  seed.  A  seedling 
plant  will  always  partake  more  or  less  of  the  character  of 
its  parent,  the  qualities  of  which  are  concentrated  in  the 
embrvo,  when  it  has  arrived  at  full  maturity.  As  this  sub- 
ject has  been  already  discussed  in  the  second  part  of  this 
work,  page  133,  I  shall  direct  the  reader's  attention  to  the 
oj^eration  of  Cross  Feriilizafion. 

This  is  effected  by  the  action  of  the  pollen  of  one  plant 
upon  the  stigma  of  another.  The  nature  of  this  action  is 
highly  curious.  Pollen  consists  of  extremely  minute  hollow 
balls  or  bodies ;  their  cavity  is  filled  with  fluid,  in  which 
swim  particles  of  a  figure  varying  from  spherical  to  oblong, 
and  having  an  apparently  spontaneous  motion.  The  stigma 
is  composed  of  veiy  lax  tissue,  the  intercellular  passages  of 
which  have  a  greater  diameter  than  the  moving  particles  of 
the  pollen.  When  a  grain  of  pollen  comes  in  contact  with 
the  stigma,  it  bursts,  and  discharges  its  contents  among  the 
lax  tissue  upon  which  it  has  fallen.  The  moving  particles 
descend  through  the  tissue  of  the  style,  until  one,  or  some- 
times more,  of  them  finds  its  way,  by  routes  especially  des- 
tined by  nature  for  this  service,  into  a  little  opening  in  the 
integuments  of  the  ovulum  or  young  seed.  Once  deposited 
there,  the  particle  swells,  increases  gradually  in  size,  sepa- 
rates into  radicle  and  cotyledons,  and  finally  becomes  the 
embryo, — the  part  which  is  to  give  birth,  when  the  seed  is 
sown,  to  a  new  individual.  Such  being  the  mode  in  which 
the  pollen  influences  the  stigma,  and  subsequently  the  seed, 
a  practical  consequence  of  great  importance  necessarily  fol- 
lows, viz.,  that  in  all  cases  of  cross  fertilization,  the   new 


CALENDAR    AND    INDEX.  145 

variety  will  take  cliieHy  after  its  polliniferous  or  male 
jiarent ;  and  that  at  the  same  time  it  will  acquire  some  of 
the  constitutional  peculiarities  of  its  mother.  Thus  the  male 
parent  of  the  Downton  Strawberry  was  the  Old  Black,  the 
female  a  kind  of  Scarlet.  In  Coe's  Golden  Drop  Plum,  the 
father  was  the  Yellow  Magnum  Bouum,  the  mother  the 
Green  Gage ;  and  in  the  Elton  Cherry,  the  White  Heart 
was  the  male  parent,  and  the  Graffion  the  female. 

The  limits  within  which  experiments  of  this  kind  must  be 
confined  are,  however,  narrow.  It  seems  that  cross  fertili- 
zation will  not  take  place  at  all,  or  very  rarely,  between  dif- 
ferent species,  unless  these  species  are  nearly  related  to  each 
other :  and  that  the  offspring  of  the  two  distinct  species  is 
itself  sterile,  or  if  it  possesses  the  power  of  multipljnng  itself 
by  seed,  its  progeny  returns  back  to  the  state  of  one  or  other 
of  its  paients.  Hence  it  seldom  or  never  has  happened  that 
domesticated  fruits  have  had  such  an  origin.  We  have  no 
varieties  raised  between  the  Apple  and  the  Pear,  or  the 
Plum  and  Cherry,  or  the  Gooseberry  and  the  Cuiiant.  On 
the  other  hand,  new  vaiieties  obtained  by  the  intermixture 
of  two  pre-existing  varieties  are  not  less  prolific,  but,  on  the 
contrary,  often  more  so  than  either  of  their  parents  :  wit- 
ness the  numerous  sorts  of  Flemish  Pears  which  have  been 
raised  by  cross  ferlilization  from  bad  bearers,  within  the  last 
thirty  years,  and  which  are  the  most  pmliRc  trees  with 
which  gardeners  are  acquainted;  witness  also  Mr.  Knight's 
Cherries,  raised  between  the  May  Duke  and  the  Grafiion, 
and  the  Coe's  Plum  already  mentioned.  It  is  therefore  to 
the  intermixture  of  the  most  valuable  existing  varieties  of 
fruit  that  gaideners  should  trust  for  the  amelioraiion  of  their 
stock.  By  this  operation  the  Pears  that  are  in  eating  in  the 
spring  have  been  rendered  as  delicious  and  as  fertile  as 
those  of  the  autumn  ;  and  there  is  no  apparent  reason  why 
those  very  early,  but  worthless  sorts,  such  as  the  Muscat 
Robert,  which  usher  in  the  season  of  Pears,  should  not  be 
brought  to  a  similar  state  of  perfection. 


146  CALENDAR   AND    INDEX. 

Lindley  recommends  the  operation  of  cross  fertilization 
to  be  performed  early  in  the  morning  of  a  dry  day ;  about 
sun-rise  is  a  good  time  to  begin,  and  before  the  blossom  is 
entirely  expanded  ;  the  pollen  being  at  that  time  humid,  is 
closely  attached  to  the  anthers.  The  blossoms  must  be  care- 
fully opened  and  the  anthers  extracted  by  delicate  scissors, 
care  being  taken  not  to  wound  the  filaments  or  any  other 
part  of  the  flower.  This  being  done,  the  matured  pollen 
from  another  variety  must  be  carefully  placed  on  the  blossom 
which  it  is  intended  to  fertilize,  and  from  which  the  anthers 
have  been  extracted ;  and  this  operation  must  be  repeated 
twice  or  three  times  in  the  course  of  the  day.  By  shaking 
the  blossoms  over  a  sheet  of  white  paper,  the  time  when  it 
is  perfectly  matured  will  be  ascertained.  It  is  necessary  to 
protect  the  prepared  blossom  from  bees  and  other  insects 
with  thin  book-muslin,  or  gauze,  till  a  swelling  is  perceived 
in  the  germ.  When  the  process  has  been  successful,  the 
pollen  which  has  been  placed  on  the  stigma  becomes  so 
attached  that  it  cannot  be  removed  with  a  hair  pencil ;  it 
changes  form  and  colour,  and  soon  disappears,  and  the  blos- 
som will  soon  wither  and  fade ;  but  when  the  process  has 
been  imperfect,  the  pollen  is  easily  detached  from  the  stig- 
ma, its  appearance  is  unaltered,  and  it  remains  visible  with 
the  duration  of  the  flower,  which  will  continue  a  long  time. 

For  further  information  on  these  subjects,  see  Outlines  of 
the  First  Principles  of  Horticulture,  pases  120  to  140  of  the 
second  part  of  this  woik. 


CLAKNDAR   AND     INDEX.  147 

FEBRUARY. 

Without  'tis  a  desert,  too  hleak  for  a  ram, 
Within  we  have  one— merely  Apples  and  Jam, 
Preserved  for  the  season,  with  skill  and  with  care, 
By  the  hands  of  tlie  thrifty,  the  good,  and  the  fair  ! 

As  the  season  f'?'"  pruning  fruit  trees  and  vines  com- 
mences in  the  various  parts  of  our  country  at  different 
iieriods,  acconfing  to  the  climate,  I  would  submit  a  few 
general  remarks  on  the  subject,  with  a  view  to  prepare  the 
gardener  for  the  performance  of  the  work  in  a  skilful  man- 
ner, and  at  the  proper  season  ;  for  be  it  remembered  that 
untimely  or  injudicious  pruning  may  produce  nijury  instead 
cji/'  benefit,  and  in  many  cases  defeat  the  real  object  of  the 
operation. 

Havino-  o-iven  ample  directions  for  the  cultivation  of  the 
various  species  of  fruit,  I  would  recommend  the  novice  to 
peruse  every  article  before  he  enters  upon  the  work  of  the 
garden  ;  he  will  there  discover  that  no  single  rule  will  apply 
to  every  kind  of  fruit ;  first,  because  the  mode  of  bearing  is 
different  in  almost  every  distinct  species ;  secondly,  because 
the  sap  rises  earlier  and  continues  longer  in  the  branches  of 
some  species  than  in  others ;  and  thirdly,  because  some 
trees,  as  the  Plum  for  instance,  is  apt  to  gum,  if  pruned  too 
soon  in  the  season,  and  the  grajjo  vine  to  bleed  if  delayed 
too  lono".  For  the  above,  and  other  reasons  that  may  be 
o-iven,  the  gardener  should  examine  all  his  fruit  trees  fre- 
quently  in  this  month,  with  his  implements  at  hand,  and  if 
circumstances  will  not  admit  of  a  general  pruning,  he  may 
cut  off  dead  branches,  and  clear  trees  ft-om  moss  and  canker, 
also  search  for  the  nests  of  insects,  and  destroy  them  while 
in  a  torpid  state.  This  will  assist  the  natural  efforts  of  the 
trees,  in  cas-ting  off  the  crude  and  undigested  juices,  which 
if  confined  in  them  will  in  a  short  time  destroy  them,  or 
some  of  their  branches. 

As  soon  as  the  severity  of  the  winter  is  over,  the  hardy 


148  CALENDAR    AND    INDEX. 

and  half  hardy  grape-vines  should  be  judiciously  pruned,  by 
cutting  out  old  branches  which  produced  fruit  the  preceding 
year,  as  well  as  all  superfluous  and  weak  young  shoots, 
leaving  the  strong  summer  slioots  for  bearers  the  coming 
season,  which  should  be  judiciously  trained  as  recommended 
in  articles,  pages  21  and  72. 

In  pruning  all  desciiptions  of  trees,  some  general  rules 
may  be  observed.  In  cutting  out  defective  branches, 
prune  close  to  the  healthy  wood,  and  also  shorten  such 
shoots  as  have  been  injured  by  the  winter,  to  the  full  extent, 
or  even  a  few  inches  beyond,  where  damage  has  been  sus- 
tained. 

In  pruning  healthy  young  trees  the  limbs  should  not  be 
too  closely  pruned,  because  this  would  occasion  more  lateral 
shoots  to  put  forth  than  is  beneficial  to  the  tree ;  which,  if 
not  rubbed  off  in  the  summer,  while  quite  young,  and  as  it 
were  herbaceous,  they  will  form  crowded  branches,  which 
may  not  yield  good  fruit.  In  doing  this  disbudding,  how- 
ever, care  must  be  taken  to  leave  shoots  in  a  suitable  direc- 
tion, sufficient  for  the  formation  of  an  open  and  handsome 
head  to  the  tree,  according  to  its  kind. 

It  may  be  observed,  farther,  that  in  the  event  of  young 
trees,  taken  from  the  nursery,  being  deficient  in  fibrous 
roots,  as  is  sometimes  the  case,  close  pruning  may  be  neces- 
sary to  maintain  a  proper  equilibrium  between  the  roots  and 
the  head,  but  it  should  be  borne  in  mind,  that  foliage  is  as 
essential  to  the  maintenance  of  the  roots,  as  roots  are  neces- 
sary to  the  promotion  of  the  growth  of  the  head  ;  because 
the  secretion  of  plants  being  formed  in  leaves,  it  follows  that 
secretions  cannot  take  place  if  leaf  buds  are  destroyed. 

As  vegetation  makes  rapid  progress  in  our  climate  after 
the  frost  is  out  of  the  ground,  the  gardener  should  employ 
himself  in  unfavourable  weather,  in  providing  implements 
and  materials  for  the  performance  of  the  work  of  the  gar- 
den every  fine  day,  in  order  that  his  pruning  and  planting 
may  be  done  before  the  too  rapid  advance  of  the  sap. 


CALENDAR    AND    INDEX.  149 

By  such  management,  he  will  not  only  promote  the  wel- 
fare of  his  fruit  garden,  but  will  save  himself  much  anxiety 
and  labour  as  the  season  progresses.  For  some  appropriate 
hints,  relative  to  the  employment  of  this  month,  see  the 
Calendar  for  January  and  February,  in  the  first  part  of  this 
work,  pages  1-18  and  149,  also  page  53  of  the  second  part, 
and  pages  21  and  34  of  the  third  part. 

Toward  the  latter  end  of  this  month,  it  will  be  time  to 
prune  and  train  grape  vines  in  many  situations.  Pro-vide 
shreds  or  strips  of  woollen  cloth  about  half  an  inch  wide,  or 
list  from  broad  cloth,  which  is  still  better  ;  also  small  sharp- 
pointed  nails  to  use  in  training  vines  and  such  fmit-trees  as 
require  training. 

If  any  removals  are  contemplated,  or  if  fresh  trees  or 
vines  are  required,  arrangements  should  be  made  to  have 
them  planted  as  soon  as  the  ground  can  be  brouijht  into  good 
condition.  See  pages  from  9  to  11,  also  pages  93, 101  to  104, 
If  the  kernels  of  the  Apple,  Pear,  and  Quince,  and  the  pits 
of  the  Apricot,  Cherry,  Peach,  and  Plum  were  not  planted 
last  autumn,  as  directed,  let  it  be  done  as  soon  as  the  earth 
can  be  brought  into  tillable  condition,  because  exposure  to 
fi'OSt  is  essential  to  their  vegetatinsr. 


MARCH. 


The  Gard'ner  at  work,  ere  the  birds  pipe  a  tune, 
Kach  fruit-tree  inspects,  then  commences  to  prune ; 
The  insects  destroying,  on  branches  or  root. 
That  injure  the  blossom,  or  live  in  the  fruit. 

If  the  weatlier  be  mild  this  month,  considerable  work 
may  be  done  in  the  fruit  garden  and  orchard,  before  the 
ground  can  be  brouglit  into  suitable  condition  for  ploughing, 
digging,  or  planting. 

Prune  grape  vines  early  in  this  month,  if  not  done  last 
month,  but  withhold  the  knife  until  you  have  surveyed  the 


150  CALENDAR    AND    INDEX. 

plant,  and  selected  a  full  supply  of  the  last  summer  shoots 
at  regular  distances  from  each  other,  for  bearers  the  coming 
summer  ;  cut  out  the  superabundant,  with  most  of  the  last 
year's  bearers,  and  naked  wood.  Prune  so  that  a  young 
shoot  will  terminate  each  branch,  and  shorten  the  reserved 
shoots ;  the  smallest  to  three  or  four  joints,  and  the  strong 
ones  to  ten  or  twelve.  Fasten  the  vines  to  trellises  as  soon 
as  pruned,  with  list,  or  shreds  of  woollen  cloth,  arranging  the 
Sfeneral  branches  from  ten  to  twelve  inches'  distance,  more 
or  less,  according  to  the  size  of  the  vines  and  space  allotted 
for  them  to  grow  in.  Preserve  all  strong  shoots  to  make 
cuttings  with,  to  be  planted  next  month,  which  will  produce 
vines  fit  to  set  out  next  year.  See  Observations  on  Training 
and  Pruning,  page  21 ;  also,  article  Grape  Vine,  72  to  88. 

Prune  Apple  trees,  38;  Cherry,  52;  Pear,  112;  Quince, 
132;  also,  Currant  bushes,  59;  Goosebeny,  71;  cutting  out 
all  crowded  bi'anches,  worn-out  bearers,  and  decayed  wood. 
If  not  done  in  the  autumn,  plantations  may  be  made  this 
month  of  all  the  above  species. 

Cut  out  and  destroy  all  the  old  stems  of  Raspberry  shrubs, 
reserving  three  or  four  of  the  strongest  young  shoots  on  each 
stool ;  shorten  them  at  the  top,  and  take  away  all  others, 
the  strongest  of  which  may  be  transplanted  to  form  a  new 
bed.     Lay  the  trailing -varieties  for  propagation,  134. 

In  transplanting  trees,  care  should  be  taken  that  the  col- 
lar, or  that  part  from  which  emanates  the  main  roots,  be  not 
inserted  too  deep  in  the  soil,  as  this  injures  the  bark,  and, 
consequently,  impedes  the  natural  circulation  of  the  juices. 
A  medium  sized  tree  may  be  planted  one  inch  deeper  than 
it  was  in  the  nursery  bed,  and  the  largest  should  not  exceed 
two  or  three  inches,  9,  93,  101  and  125. 

Plant  cuttings  and  suckers  of  Goosebemes  and  Currants, 
also,  of  such  fruit  trees  as  produce  them,  in  order  to  raise 
stocks  to  bud  and  graft  upon  ;  fruit  stones  and  kernels  may 
also  be  planted  for  the  same  purpose. 

Young  trees,  shrubs,  and  vines  may  be  obtained  at  public 


CALENDAR    AND    INDEX.  151 

nurseries,  in  different  stages  of  growth,  suited  for  general 
planting;  and  others  sufficiently  advanced  for  immediate 
bearers ;  these  should  be  carefully  taken  up,  and  replanted. 
For  full  infoimation  on  this  subject,  the  reader  is  refeiTed  to 
the  article,  'On  the  Choice  of  Fruit  Trees  in  the  Nursery,' 
page  32. 

Toward  the  end  of  the  month  is  a  good  time  to  prepare 
for  the  cultivation  of  Cranberries  ;  they  thrive  best  in  a  wet 
soil,  but  will  grow  on  almost  any  land,  by  giving  it  a  top- 
dressing  of  peat,  bog,  or  swamp  earth.  As  soon  as  such  ground 
can  be  brought  into  tillable  condition,  get  plants  that  were 
produced  from  layers  of  the  last  season,  and  set  them  out  in 
rows  about  two  feet  apart ;  they  will  soon  cover  the  ground 
by  their  runners,  which,  on  being  layed,  will  produce  an 
abundance  of  plants  well  adapted  for  additional  plantations 
in  succeeding  years.     See  page  57. 

Pro\-ide  Cedar  or  Chestnut  stakes  for  the  purpose  of 
driving  into  the  ground,  to  protect  newly  planted  trees  from 
injury  by  the  wind. 


APRIL. 


No  advocate  he  for  a  long  morning  nap, 
Waking  early,  he  plants  ere  the  rise  of  the  sap  ; 
Whilst  glee  and  good  humour  enliven  his  foce, 
More  happy,  by  far,  than  his  Lordship  or  Grace. 

Finish  pruning  hardy  fruit  trees  the  early  part  of  this 
month;  also  Apricot,  47  ;  Almond,  51 ;  Fig,  63;  Mulberry, 
90;  Nectarine,  9i;  Peach,  104;  Plum,  125  ;  not  forgetting 
Buch  trees,  vines,  and  shrubs  as  may  have  been  left  undone 
last  month.  At  the  same  time  manure  and  dig  the  ground 
around  every  fruit  tree  that  requires  it. 

Prepaie  the  ground  for  planting,  by  digging,  trenching, 
and  manuring,  either  generally,  or  in  such  particular  places 
as  are  allotted  for  the  trees  to  be  planted  in,  page  9. 


152  CALENDAR    AND    INDEX. 

This  is  the  most  proper  season  for  planting  the  Apricot, 
Ahnond,  Fig,  Grape,  Mulberry,  Nectarine,  Peach,  and  all 
such  fruit  trees,  vines,  or  shrubs  as  originated  in  warm  cli- 
mates. Apple,  Cherry,  Pear,  Plum,  Quince  and  other 
hardy  fruit  trees,  may  also  be  planted  with  safety  early  in 
this  month;  but  autumn  is  considered  the  most  favourable 
season  for  planting  all  trees,  vines,  or  shrubs  of  northern 
latitude,  10,  93,  101  and  125. 

Those  who  have  a  variety  of  soil  should  accommodate  all 
the  varied  kinds  of  fruit  to  that  which  has  been  proved  to 
be  the  best  adapted  to  its  culture;  and  due  attention  should 
be  paid  to  situation  and  aspect,  in  planting  a  fruit  garden  or 
orchard,  12. 

Use  means  to  destroy  insects  while  in  a  torpid  state,  to 
prevent  their  spreading,  and  also  the  larv^  of  insects  ;  direc- 
tions for  which  will  be  found  in  the  article  headed,  *  Obser- 
vations on  Insects,  and  Diseases  to  which  Fruit  Trees  are 
liable,'  13. 

Grafting  may  be  performed  on  fruit  trees  in  general,  27; 
prune  and  plant  Currant  bushes,  59;  Filbert,  65;  Goose- 
berry, 70;  Raspberry,  134.  Plant  cuttings  and  suckers 
from  these  shrubs ;  also  of  such  trees  as  produce  them,  in 
order  to  get  a  supply  of  stocks  to  bud  and  graft  upon,  as 
well  as  some  for  beai'ing.  Fruit  stones  and  kernels  of 
various  kinds  may  be  planted  for  the  same  purpose. 

This  is  a  good  season  to  plant  cuttings  of  Grape  Vines, 
and  the  vine  may  also  be  propagated  by  layers,  that  is,  by 
bending  a  young  shoot  down  into  the  earth  a  few  inches, 
and  pinning  it  down  with  a  forked  stick.  The  top  may  be 
tied  to  a  small  stake,  to  keep  it  perpendicular;  76  and  81. 
The  tender  vines  that  were  laid  down  in  autumn,  should  be 
taken  up,  and  fastened  to  trellises  or  stakes. 

Uncover  and  raise  up  the  Antwerp  and  other  tender 
varieties  of  the  Raspberry,  and  prune  them,  before  the  buds 
shoot,  at  the  same  time  cullivate  the  ground  around  them, 
and  drive  in  stakes  for  their  support.     In  order  to  obtain  a 


CALENDAR    AND    INDEX.  153 

good  supply  of  Raspberries  in  the  autumn,  cut  down  some 
of  the  twice  bearing  varieties  close  to  the  ground,  which  will 
occasion  strong  suckers  to  shoot  up,  that  will  yield  an  abun- 
dant crop  of  fruit  at  a  season  when  other  varieties  are  not 
attainable,  134. 

Strawberry  beds  that  were  protected  with  leaves  or  litter 
through  the  winter,  should  be  uncovered,  and  the  plants 
carefully  cultivated  ;  some  lay  straw  over  their  beds,  an  inch 
or  two  thick,  and  set  fire  to  it,  1S7. 

As  the  warm  weather  progresses,  the  gardener  should  be 
on  the  alert,  in  order  to  conquer  the  various  kinds  of  insects. 
Burn  damp  litter,  stubble,  leaves,  weeds,  &c.,  near  fruit 
trees,  and  sow  the  ashes  over  the  ground,  IS  and  91. 


MAY. 


The  Gooseberry  green     the  first  fruit  of  the  year, 
In  pudding:  or  pie,  affords  exquisite  cheer, 
But  e'en  should  the  season  their  pleasure  forefend. 
In  such  a  dilemma,  green  Rhubarb's  a  friend. 

Finish  planting  trees,  vines,  and  shrubs  as  early  in  this 
month  as  possible  ;  those  planted  last  month  should  be  kept 
watered  in  dry  weather,  and  stakes  should  be  applied  to 
such  as  may  be  exposed  to  the  wind,  93,  101  and  125. 

Finish  grafting  early  in  this  month.  Apples,  Pears,  and 
other  late-shooting  kinds  may  still  succeed,  27. 

Strawberry  beds  may  be  made  early  in  this  month,  and  if 
the  transplanting  is  well  done,  and  the  plants  frequently 
waterecl,  they  will  produce  some  fruit  this  year,  and  a  plen- 
tiful supply  tlie  next  season.  Hovey's  American  Seedling 
is  worthy  a  place  in  every  good  collection  for  its  productive- 
ness, and  the  superiority  of  its  fiuit.  The  Methven  Scarlet, 
and  Mulberry  or  Pine,  are  large  and  yield  plentifully. 
Kean's  Seedling,  and  also  the  Downton,  are  of  supeiinr  fla- 
vour.    The  Elton  Seedling,  Southborough  Seedling,  jMyatt'a 


154  CALENDAR   AND    INDEX. 

Seedling,  and  Bishop's  Orange,  are  in  great  repute  where 
cultivated.  The  old  Scarlet,  being  one  of  the  earliest, 
should  not  be  forgotten.  The  Wood  and  the  Alpine  Straw- 
berry will  produce  fine  fruit  from  seed  sown  in  the  spring. 
For  names  of  other  varieties,  mode  of  planting,  &c.,  see 
article,  page  136. 

If  frost  prevail  when  fruit  trees  are  in  blossom,  those 
trained  on  trellises,  or  against  walls  and  fences,  may  be  pro- 
tected by  hanging  matting  or  sheets  of  tow  cloth  over  them; 
some  defend  them  by  sticking  bunches  of  evergreens  be- 
tween the  branches,  as  cedar,  laurel,  pine,  &c.  The  object 
in  doing  this,  is  not  so  much  to  keep  out  the  frost,  as  to 
break  off  the  sun's  rays  in  the  morning  after  a  frosty  night, 
because  the  sudden  transition  from  cold  to  heat  does  more 
injury  than  the  cold  itself. 

Propagate  Fig  trees  by  layers,  cuttings,  suckers,  and  by 
grafting,  62. 

If  any  webs  or  larvae  of  insects  appear  on  the  leaves  of 
fruit  trees  and  vines,  pluck  off  and  destroy  such  leaves  before 
the  insects  become  quickened,  which  may  be  a  means  of 
preventing  any  depredation  to  the  advancing  leaves  and 
buds.  The  trees  of  Plum  and  other  stone  fruit  are  very  apt 
to  gum  and  canker  at  this  season  of  the  year :  in  such  cases 
the  defective  parts  should  be  pruned  closely  off,  and  whale 
oil  soap  applied  to  the  wound.  A  little  soot  also  should 
be  rubbed  on  while  wet.  In  large  fruit  gardens  and  or- 
chards, means  should  be  used  to  destroy  insects  by  fumiga- 
tion, washing,  &c.  For  various  remedies,  see  Observations 
on  Insects,  and  Diseases  to  which  Fruit  Trees  are  l/able, 
page  13;  see,  also,  article  ])age  30. 

Divest  young  budded  and  grafted  trees  of  all  shoots  from 
the  stocks,  below  the  bud  or  graft,  as  they  appear ;  also  rub 
off  all  useless  buds  in  early-shooting  wall  trees,  as  Nectarine, 
Apricots,  &c.,  48. 

To  protect  Gooseben'ies  and  other  fruits  from  mildews 
sprinkle  the  leaves  with  soap-suds  ;  and  while  they  are  wet. 


CALENDAR    AND    INDEX.  155 

BOW  sulphur  lightly  over  them.  This  may  be  done  two  or 
three  times  a  week  if  necessary,  as  it  is  better  to  use  a  little  of 
the  ingredients  frequently,  tlian  too  much  at  once.  A  solution 
made  of  saltpetre  and  stone  lime  is  also  a  good  remedy ;  but 
it  must  be  used  with  caution.     See  pages  14  and  71. 


JUNE. 


The  Cherry,  the  Currant,  and  Strawberry  rei. 

To  tlie  rich  and  the  poor  their  refreshment  have  shed  ; 

Pomona    has  scattor'd  her  blessings  abroad, 

The  full-bearing  branches  bend  down  with  their  load. 

The  principal  business  of  this  month  in  the  fruit  garden 
is  summer  pruning,  which  is  generally  performed  with  the 
finger  and  thumb,  by  detaching  all  superfluous  shoots  and 
buds;  and  also  to  thin  the  young  fruit  of  Apricot,  Nectarine, 
and  other  choice  trained  trees,  where  it  sets  too  thick  or  in 
clusters.  The  Apricots,  so  thinned  off,  and  the  first  princi- 
pal green  fruit,  will  make  excellent  pies  and  tarts.  See 
pages  4S  and  92. 

Cherry  trees  of  the  finest  sorts  may  be  defended  from 
birds,  with  nets,  particularly  those  trained  as  espaliers,  52. 

Currant  and  Gooseberry  shrubs  of  choice  late  varieties, 
trained  as  espaliers  or  standards,  if  veiy  crowded  with 
shoots  of  the  year,  should  be  pruned,  and  the  Gooseberry 
fruit  thinned,  to  promote  its  growth  and  ripening  in  full  per- 
fection, 59  and  71. 

All  trees  on  espaliers  require  attention ;  cut  off  such 
superfluous  shoots  as  are  not  required  to  be  trained  in, 
leaving  well-situated  middle-sized  shoots  to  supply  the  place 
of  any  old  branches  that  it  may  be  thought  necessary  to  zut 
away,  23. 

Grape  Vines  should  be  looked  over  every  week.  Cut  off 
all  the  tendrils  and  useless  young  shoots,  and  stop  the  shoots 
before  the  bunches  of  fiuit.     Train  up  the   shoots  for  bear- 


156  CALENDAR   AND    INDEX. 

ing  next  season,  and  to   a  proper  length,  before   you  stop 
them,  86. 

Newly  planted  trees  should  be  watered  in  dry  hot  wea- 
ther; an  occasional  hoeing  around  them  will  also  be  bene 
ficial,  but  care  must  be  taken  not  to  injure  the  roots. 

The  trained  trees  and  espaliers  should  be  examined  fre- 
quently, and  cleared  of  dead  leaves  and  insects;  which  can 
be  done  by  the  hand,  with  very  little  trouble.  For  the 
destruction  of  Rose  Bugs  on  Grape  Vines  and  Fruit  Trees, 
see  article  Grape,  page  84. 

Those  who  have  plenty  of  Strawberry  beds,  may,  by 
mowing  the  tops  from  some  of  them  while  they  are  in  blos- 
som, obtain  a  supply  of  fruit  at  a  season  when  Strawberries 
are  scarce.  The  beds  will  require  to  be  hoed,  and  watered 
in  dry  weather,  136  and  137. 


JULY. 


The  Margaret  Apple,  the  pride  of  our  clime. 
With  the  Apricot,  Raspberry,  true  to  their  time. 
Are  pleasant  companions,  as  summer  e'er  met. 
Though  others,  as  welcome,  are  coming  on  yet. 

Thin  the  fruit  of  Apricots,  which  will  be  good  for  pies  and 
tarts;  thin  Nectarines;  also  such  Peaches  and  other  fruits 
as  may  be  desired  in  full  perfection,  48  and  92. 

Defend  choice  fruit  from  birds  and  insects,  such  as 
wasps,  flies,  &c.;  the  birds  may  be  kept  off  by  nets,  and  the 
insects  may  be  decoyed  and  drowned,  by  placing  phials  of 
strong  liquor,  honey,  or  sugared  water  near  the  fruit. 

If  annoyed  with  ants,  place  cuttings  of  reed,  hollowed  elder 
or  anything  of  a  tube-like  kind,  in  which  they  will  harbour, 
and  may  be  destroyed  by  dipping  the  tubes  in  hot  water. 

If  mildew  appear  on  Grape  Vines,  syringe  them  with 
water,  in  which  a  small  quantity  of  saltpetre  and  stone  lime 
has  been  infused,  (it  need  not  be  over  strong.)     To  prevent 


CALENDAR    AND     INDEX.  157 

any  injurious  effects  from  the  lime,  the  vines  may  be  syr- 
inged alternately  with  the  liquid  and  pure  water,  each  two 
or  three  times  a  week.  A  little  sulphur  dusted  over  while 
the  leaves  are  wet  is  also  a  good  remedy,  14. 

Look  over  your  trained  Fruit  Trees  and  Grape  Vines; 
stop  the  shoots  before  the  bunches  of  fruit,  and  train  up 
such  shoots  as  are  reserved  for  bearing  next  year.  Nip  off 
curled  and  dead  leaves,  and  destroy  insects,  22  and  86. 

Fig  Trees  against  fences  or  on  trellises  will  require  at- 
tention;  train  up  as  many  young  shoots  as  will  be  required 
for  bearers  next  year,  and  if  the  leaves  are  thick,  take  some 
off,  with  a  view  to  expose  the  fruit  to  the  influence  of  the 
sun,  which  is  essential  to  its  ripening  with  good  flavour,  62. 

Toward  the  end  of  this  month  is  the  proper  season  for 
budding  the  Nectarine,  Peach,  Plum,  and  other  species  of 
stone  fruit.  The  Peach  stock  is  often  budded  when  only  a 
year  old,  but  the  Plum  stock  is  generally  kept  in  the  nursery 
two  or  three  years  25. 

Apple  and  Pear  stocks  may  be  budded  when  two  or  three 
years  old,  but  those  fruits  are  generally  propagated  by  graft- 
ing early  in  the  spring. 

A  judicious  pruning  of  Peach,  Nectarine,  and  other  kinds 
of  young  trees  is  necessary  at  tliis  season.  To  prevent  the 
long,  straggling  growth  of  limbs  which  ai'e  frequently  bare 
of  shoots  for  some  distance  from  the  body  of  the  tree,  such 
limbs  should  be  shortened,  which  will  cause  the  production 
of  lateral  shoots.  An  annual  summer  pruning  is  essential  to 
the  well  being  of  a  tree,  as  by  shortening  the  wood  of  the 
preceding  year's  growth,  a  symmetrical  tree  containing  a 
good  supply  of  bearing  wood  may  be  formed.  By  this  treat 
ment  the  longevity  of  a  tree  will  be  promoted,  provided  the 
work  is  done  with  judgment  and  care,  so  as  not  to  render 
the  tree  impervious  to  the  influence  of  the  sun  and  air;  for, 
be  it  remembered,  that  the  head  of  a  tree  must  always  be 
kept  moderately  open,  for  the  purposes  of  giving  the  fruit 
the  best  possible  chance  of  ripening  perfectly,  21,  34  and  48. 


158  CALENDAR    A.ND    INDEX. 


AUGUST. 


The  Peach,  plump  and  ripe,  brings  us  excellent  fare, 
Let  the  Nectarine,  too,  in  this  eulogy  share — 
Their  flavour  how  grateful — their  juices  how  fine, 
TTnequall'd  in  taste  by  the  fruit  of  the  vine. 

Finish  all  that  remains  to  be  done  of  summer  pruning  of 
all  trained  fruit  trees  and  vines,  as  in  the  last  two  months  ; 
destroy  all  irregular  and  unnecessary  after-shoots,  and  train 
in  a  requisite  supply  of  well-situated  shoots,  for  bearers  next 
year,  48  and  86. 

Examine  the  fruit  trees  that  were  innoculated  last  month, 
and  wherever  a  bud  has  failed,  insert  another  upon  the 
smooth  part  of  the  bark.  Budding  generally  succeeds  well 
if  done  by  the  middle  of  this  month,  26. 

Keep  Raspbeny  beds  clear  of  all  straggling  suckers ;  tie 
up  such  shoots  as  are  adapted  for  next  year's  bearers  to  neat 
stakes,  and  keep  the  ground  clear  of  weeds,  134. 

Strawberry  beds  should  be  kept  clear  of  weeds,  and  the 
runners  may  be  taken  from  some  kinds  to  make  new  planta- 
tions with,  137. 

If  dry  weather  prevail,  as  is  generally  the  case  at  this  sea- 
son, hoe  frequently  between  sucli  young  tiees,  shiubs,  &c., 
in  the  nursery  beds,  as  are  well  rooted;  and  water  those 
which  were  recently  transplanted. 

As  numerous  species  of  insects  are  engendered  by  the 
excessive  heat  which  generally  prevails  at  this  season  of  the 
year,  efforts  should  be  made  to  destroy  them.  By  a  general 
search  every  morning  and  evening,  the  increase  of  some 
species  may  be  checked,  and  by  perseverance,  they  may  be 
totally  eradicated.  See  pages  from  18  to  21  of  the  first 
part,  and  pages  13,  30,  84  and  156  of  the  third  part,  for 
directions  how  to  proceed. 

Many  of  those  reptiles  that  take  up  their  abode  in  the 
earth  may  be  annoyed  by  frequent  sowings  of  compost  over 
the  surface  of  the  land.     The  various  kinds  of  bitter  and 


CALENDAR    AND    INDEX.  159 

acrid  substances  recommencled  in  the  chapter  containing 
'  Observations  on  Insects  and  the  Diseases  of  Fruit  Trees,' 
page  13,  are  not  only  adapted  to  the  destruction  of  insects, 
but  the  use  of  them  in  this  way,  will  produce  an  incalcula- 
ble benefit  to  the  land,  and  in  many  cases  preclude  the 
necessity  of  using  any  other  manure. 

The  ingredients  alluded  to  consist  of  ashes,  charcoal  dust, 
plaster  of  Paris,  tobacco  dust,  lime,  salt,  soot,  pepper,  pot- 
ash, saltpetre,  snuff,  and  sulphur.  The  proportions  may  be 
as  follows:  Of  the  first  four  articles,  half  a  bushel  of  each; 
of  the  next  three,  a  peck  of  each ;  and  of  the  last  five,  say 
one  pound  of  each  ;  wliich  will  make  together  three  bushels 
of  compost. 

As  all  land  possesses  inorganic  matter,  which  contains 
more  or  less  of  the  elements  comprised  in  the  above  reme- 
dies, and  as  some  land  contains  more  of  one  element  than 
another,  a  judicious  choice  may  be  made  from  the  above 
list,  with  a  view  to  suit  all  the  various  kiuds  of  soil ;  thus, 
in  locations  open  to  sea  breezes,  which  replenish  the  earth 
with  salt,  that  article  may  be  dispensed  with,  and  another 
substituted  ;  and  on  land  which  is  not  susceptible  of  being 
improved  by  lime,  perhaps  the  salt  may  be  beneficial ;  but 
it  is  presumed  that  in  most  cases  a  compost  made  of  all,  or 
as  many  of  the  different  articles  as  are  attainable,  would 
produce  a  lasting  benefit  to  land  in  general,  by  sowing,  say 
at  the  rate  of  a  bushel  per  acre,  once  a  week,  at  those  sea- 
sons of  the  year  when  it  will  avail  most  in  the  destruction 
of  reptiles  and  insects;  and  as  the  primary  object  of  using 
the  compost  is  to  prevent  our  fruits  from  being  destroyed,  it 
would  prove  most  effectual  if  sown  out  of  a  wagon,  from 
which,  in  passing  between  the  trees,  the  leaves  could  be 
dusted.     See  pages  19,  89  and  104,  of  the  first  part. 


160 


CALENDAR    A\D    INDEX. 


SEPTEMBER. 


The  Peach  and  the  Pear  tree  have  still  ample  store, 
And  the  Plum,  most  inviting,  "  makes  urchins  adore  ;" 
A  bountiful  feast  is  spread  over  the  land, 
For  great  is  the  Giver,  unsparing  His  hand. 

Plantations  of  Strawberries  may  be  made  this  month, 
either  with  i-unners  or  seedling  plants,  137. 

Protect  your  Grapes  and  other  fruit  from  wasps  and  other 
insects ;  either  decoy  them  with  honey  or  sugared  water,  or 
hang  nets  over  the  fruit ;  some  take  the  trouble  of  puttino" 
the  bunches  into  crape  or  paper  bags. 

Grape  Vines  and  espalier  trees  in  general  should  be 
attended  to,  as  directed  in  the  previous  summer  months  ; 
by  depriving  them  of  all  useless  shoots  and  suckers,  training 
in  those  branches  intended  for  the  next  year's  bearers,  and 
destroying  the  eggs  of  insects,  curled  leaves,  &c.,  85. 

Stone  fruit,  which  will  now  be  continually  ripening, 
should  be  gathered  while  in  full  perfection,  and  not  suffered 
to  get  over-ripe,  so  as  to  lose  its  peculiar  flavour. 

Ground  allotted  for  the  planting  of  fruit  trees  and  vines 
the  coming  autumn,  should  he  prepared  this  month,  by  dig- 
ging, trenching,  and  manuring,  where  necessary,  8. 

With  a  view  to  conquer  the  various  kinds  of  insects  and 
reptiles,  persevere  in  the  use  of  the  remedies  recommended 
last  month.  Gather  up  all  fruit  which  falls  from  the  trees, 
or  turn  geese  enough  into  the  orchard  to  eat  it  up,  by 
which  means  the  reptiles  and  their  food  are  devoured  at 
once.  Hogs  are  the  best  scavengers,  but  they  are  too  apt 
to  do  injury  by  rooting;  they  may,  however,  be  let  into  the 
orchard  a  few  hours  each  day,  and  watched,  13  and  124. 

Besides  the  ingredients  already  recommended,  there  are 
others  which  may  be  used  in  various  ways.  Some  may  be 
dissolved  in  a  hogshead  allotted  for  the  purpose,  which  on 
being  kept  filled  with  water,  makes  a  solution  well  calculated 
to  sprinkle  on  the  leaves  of  trees,  by  means  of  a  syringe  or 


CALENDAR    AND    INDEX.  161 

a  portable  garden  engine.  Others  may  be  prepared  of  the 
consistency  of  paint,  and  applied  to  the  body  and  limbs  of 
trees  with  a  brush  ;  and  some  may  be  made  into  a  compo- 
sition, and  used  as  an  ointment  at  the  lime  of  pruning.  The 
articles  alluded  to  are  beeswax,  burdock  leaves,  cow  dung, 
decoctions  of  elder,  lamp-black,  ley,  soap-suds,  soft-soap, 
tar,  tallow,  turpentine,  urine,  vinegar,  walnut  leaves,  and 
whale  oil  soap,  to  which  may  be  added  such  of  the  dry  ma- 
terials in  our  previous  list  as  are  dissoluble.  See  page  18 
of  the  first  part,  and  page  30  of  the  third  part. 

If  any  of  my  readers,  from  the  prevailing  prejudices 
alluded  to  in  page  113,  should  feel  disposed  to  abandon  or 
root  up  any  of  the  fruit  trees  vi'hich  have  been  nurtured  and 
esteemed  by  their  forefathers,  they  are  recommended  before 
doing  so  to  apply  some  of  the  preceding  remedies,  and  also 
to  follow  the  advice  given  in  chapter  the  13th  and  verse  the 
8th  of  St.  Luke's  Gospel,  in  reference  to  the  barren  fig  tree, 
namely,  "dig  about  it,  and  dung  it."  If  after  this,  it  should 
be  necessary  to  "cut  it  down,"  get  some  scions  of  the  same 
varieties  from  vigoious  and  healthy  trees,  and  in-giafi  them 
on  stocks,  carefully  raised,  by  which  means  the  old  fruita 
will  have  the  same  chance  as  the  new  varieties  ;  but  it  will 
be  generally  admitted  that  a  new  broom  sweeps  clean,  and 
that  old  things  in  general  are  too  apt  to  be  neglected.  I 
would  here  avail  myself  of  the  opportunity  of  remarking,  that 
so  strong  is  the  propensity  of  some  persons  to  adopt  novel- 
ties, that  they  often  abandon  some  of  the  best  productions 
of  the  garden  in  order  to  find  room  for  other  plants,  merely 
because  they  are  new,  and  which  they  cultivate  with  pecu- 
liar care ;  whereas,  if  the  same  attention  was  bestowed  on 
the  old  inmates  of  their  garden,  they  would  prove  the  most 
worthy  of  being  cultivated  and  perpetuated. 


162  CALENDAR    AND    INDEX. 


OCTOBER. 


Oh  Bacchus  !  thy  Grapes  now  in  bunches  hang  down ; 
Some  press  them  too  freely  their  "  sorrows  to  drown  ;" 
Let  "  Temperanre  in  all  things  "  be  ever  our  guide — 
No  evil  can  flow  from  the  generous  tide ! 

Prepare  the  ground  for  planting  all  kinds  of  hard)  fruit 
trees  this  month,  by  digging,  trenching,  and  manuring,  8. 

Gather  such  varieties  of  Apples  and  Pears  as  are  in  full 
growth,  both  of  autumn-eating  and  winter-keeping  kinds  ; 
do  it  on  dry  days  ;  let  the  keeping  sorts  lay  in  heaps,  to  dis- 
charge their  redundant  moisture  ;  after  which  convey  them 
to  a  room  adapted  for  preserving  them  through  the  winter  ; 
lay  each  kind  separate,  and  cover  them  up  with  dry  straw, 
a  foot  or  more  in  thickness,  according  to  the  warmness  of 
the  room,  which  will  preserve  them  in  good  order. 

Prune  Currant  and  Gooseberry  bushes  ;  make  new  plan- 
tations, and  plant  cuttings  from  these  shrubs,  prepared  as 
directed  in  pages  59  and  70. 

Plant  the  stones  of  Cherry,  Peach.  Plum,  &c.,  in  drills 
about  two  inches  deep,  for  the  purpose  of  raising  stocks  and 
for  new  varieties ;  and  in  temperate  climates,  kernels  of 
Apple,  Pear,  Quince,  &c.,  may  be  sown  in  drills  about  an 
inch  deep  for  the  same  purpose.  Plant,  also,  cuttings  of 
hardy  trees,  suckers  of  Filberts,  &c.,  38  and  62. 

Strawberry  beds  which  were  planted  last  month  should 
be  kept  free  from  weeds,  and  if  dry  weather  prevails,  they 
should  be  occasionally  watered,  136. 

Plantings  of  hardy  trees  may  be  commenced  toward  the 
end  of  this  month,  or  soon  after  the  leaves  show  indications 
of  decay,  whether  fallen  or  not,  10. 

Toward  the  end  of  this  month,  or  early  in  the  next,  all 
the  tender  shrubs  and  vines  must  be  protected,  by  laying 
them  down  and  covering  them  with  earth,  or  by  entwining 
straw  or  matting  around  them,  63,  80  and  135. 

In  gathering  grapes  for  the  dessert  be  careful  not  to  bruise 
them  or  disturb  the  vine  ;  to  avoid  which  cut  off  each  bunch 
with  a  pair  of  small  scissors. 


CALENDAR    AND    INDEX.  163 

NOVEMBER. 

And  now  we've  arrived  near  the  close  of  the  yeaF> 
Winter  Apples  and  Cranberries  bring  up  the  rear; 
All  are  good  of  their  kind,  and  we  freely  declare, 
Not  one  of  the  Fruits  we  would  willingly  spare. 

Apple,  Pear,  Plum,  Cherry,  Chestnut,  Mulberry,  Quince, 
Walnut,  and  other  hardy  fruit  trees  may  now  be  planted ; 
use  caution  not  to  injure  them  in  taking  up  or  removing 
them;  let  holes  be  dug  somewhat  larger  than  is  sufficient 
to  admit  the  roots  in  their  natural  position,  and  of  sufficient 
depth  to  allow  of  some  good  rich  compost  or  pulverized  earth 
to  be  thrown  in  before  the  trees  are  planted.  See  pages  9, 
34,  103  and  125,  and  read  the  article  headed  *  Observations 
on  the  Choice  of  Fruit  Trees  in  the  Nui'sery,'  page  32. 

Finish  gathering  late  varieties  of  Apples,  Pears,  Grapes, 
&c.;  do  it  in  dry  weather,  and  stow  them  away  out  of  the 
reach  of  frost,  as  recommended  last  month. 

Cranberry,  Currant,  Filbert,  Gooseberry,  and  Raspberry 
shrubs  may  be  planted  this  month ;  at  the  same  time  cut 
out  all  crowded  branches,  superfluous  suckers,  worn-out 
bearers,  and  decayed  wood,  5S,  60,  Q)^>,  70  and  134. 

Strawberry  beds  made  in  August  and  September,  as  well 
as  those  of  greater  age,  may  be  covered  up  with  leaves, 
light  manure,  salt  hay,  or  other  litter. 

Protect  the  beds  where  fruit  seeds  and  cuttings  were 
planted  last  month,  by  a  covering  of  light  manure,  compost, 
or  leaves  of  trees. 

Winter  pruning  may  be  performed  this  month  on  some 
species  of  hardy  trees,  shrubs,  vines,  &c.,  and  continued  at 
all  opportunities  throughout  the  next  month,  23. 

Fig  Trees,  Tender  Grape  Vines,  as  well  as  the  Antwerp 
and  other  half-hardy  Raspberry  Shrubs,  must  be  protected 
from  the  effects  of  frost,  which  is  done  by  bendino-  them 
down  to  the  ground  and  covering  them  with  earth  five  or 
six  inches,  which  should  be  sloped  so  as  to  carry  off  the  rain. 
Some  of  the  trained  Vines  and  Fig  Trees  may  be  protected 
with  wickers  of  stiaw  or  matting,  63,  80  and  135. 


164  CALENDAR   AND    INDEX. 

DECEMBER. 

Let  sober  Reflection,  the  Tiller  employ, 
The  sound  seeds  of  Virtue  will  spring  to  his  joy  ; 
To  the  Ruler  of  season's,  let  gjatitude's  voice, 
In  His  love  and  His  wisdom  for  ever  rejoice. 

If  any  of  the  work  recommended  to  be  done  in  the  last 
month  was  not  accomplished,  let  it  be  done  with  all  possible 
despatch  this  month,  as  we  know  not  what  a  day  may  bring 
forth. 

Protect  the  stems  of  newly-planted  trees.  Cover  with 
litter  the  roots  of  Grape  Vines  and  Figs  against  walls,  and 
cover  the  branches  with  mats,  &c.  In  temperate  climates 
prune  Apple,  Pear,  Quince,  and  other  hardy  fruit  trees ;  cut 
out  rotten  and  decaying  branches,  23  and  63. 

To  destroy  insects  on  the  fruit  trees,  and  prevent  them 
from  creeping  up  and  breeding  on  them,  do  as  follows: — 

Take  a  strong  knife  with  a  sharp  point,  and  a  sharp  hook- 
like iron  made  for  the  purpose;  with  these  scrape  clean  off 
all  the  moss  and  outside  rough  bark,  and  with  the  knife  pick 
out  or  cut  away  the  cankered  parts  of  the  bark  and  wood,  in 
such  a  slanting  manner  that  water  cannot  lodge  in  the  sides 
of  the  stem  of  the  trees.  Having  cleared  the  trees  in  this 
way,  make  up  a  mixture  of  lime,  soot,  and  sulphur;  put 
these  ingredients  into  a  pot  or  tub,  pour  boiling  water  upon 
them,  and  with  a  stick  stir  and  mix  them  well  together. 
When  this  strong  mixture  becomes  cold,  and  about  the 
thickness  of  white-wash,  take  a  brush,  dip  it  in  the  mixture, 
and  apply  it  to  the  stems  and  large  branches  of  the  trees, 
dabbing  it  well  into  the  hollow  parts  of  the  baik. 

The  pruning  of  hardy  fruit  trees  and  hardy  shrubs  may 
be  performed  at  all  favourable  oppoitunities  through  the 
winter,  21  lo  24. 

For  farther  information  on  the  winter  management  of 
Fruit  Trees,  the  reader  is  referred  to  the  articles  commenc- 
ing pages  7,  13,  21,  30  and  32. 


165 


TO  THE  PEOPLE 

OF    THE 

UNITED    STATES    OF    AMERICA. 

FELLOW-CITIZENS  : 

An  application  having  been  made  to  your  Representatives  in  Congress  to 
vote  a  sum  equal  to  five  cents  from  each  individual  in  the  United  States, 
OR  ABOUT  A  MILLION  DOLLARS  OF  YOUR  RESOURCES,  to  the  promotion  of  an 
improved  system  of  "  Terra-culture,^''  as  described  in  Senate,  Document 
No.  23,  of  the  third  session  of  the  25th  Congress,  I  hereby  direct  your 
attention  to  a  few  extracts  taken  from  the  applicant's  preamble ;  copies  of 
which  were  forwarded  to  each  member  of  the  26th  Congress,  in  session, 
November  30,  1839,  by  Russell  Comsiock- 

From  the  Poughkeepsie  Eagle,  of  January  25, 1840. 

PRESERVATION  OF  FRUIT  TREES,  PLANTS,  &c. 
GREAT  DISCOVERY. 
"To  the  Hon.  Perry  Smith,  Chairman  of  the  United  States  Senate  Com- 
mittee on  Agriculture  of  the  •25th  Congress.  "  With  the  consent  and  by 
the  advice  on  the  23d  inst.,  of  the  chairman  of  the  United  States  Senate 
Committee  on  Agriculture  of  the  25th  Congress,  I  forward  to  each  member 
of  the  26th  Congress  the  accompanying  document  dated  the  14th  inst;  the 
object  is  to  show  you  some  of  the  proof  that  a  discovery  of  vital  importance 
to  civilized  man  has  been  made,  which  in  several  letters  from  different 
members  of  the  present  and  last  Congress  is  valued  at  hundreds  of  mil- 
lions OF  days'  labour,  and  WORTH  MORE  THAN  ALL  THE  DISCOVE- 
RIES     OF    THE      FRKSENT      AGE    COMBINED THE     APPLICATION    OF    STEAM 

HOT  EXCEPTED. 

"For  what  purpose  would  all  the  owners  of  the  public  lands  more  freely 
or  gratefully  consent  to  give  one  hundreth  part  of  those  lands,  or  the  pro- 
ceeds thereof]  Would  they  not  be  grateful  to  those  members  of  Congress, 
who  assist  in  giving  the  owners  of  the  public  domain  the  desired  informa- 
tion, and  reverence  them  as  benefactors  of  human  kind. 

"For  the  honour  of  the  Republic,  for  the  honour  of  the  age,  and  for  the 
interest  and  coiut'ort  of  the  living,  as  well  as  the  unborn,  let  not  that  disco- 
very which  may  cause  two  seeds  to  ripen  where  one  now  does,  which  pre- 
vents the  premature  death  of  all  cultivated  trees,  which  has  been  searched 
for  in  vain  during  tiie  history  of  all  civilized  society,  die  with  the  discoverer 
for  want  of  the  action  of  the  United  States  Congress." 

Our  patriotic  discoverer  "claims  the  following  five  discoveries  as  hia, 
besides  other  discoveries  which  are  stated  in  his  memorial  to  the  25tii  Con- 
gress : 


166 

1st.  "  That  various  diseases,  universally  supposed  to  be  destructive  to 
plants  are  only  symptoms  that  a  particular  error  in  cultivation  has  been 
committed;  and  that  many  other  injurious  effects  have  been  produced  by 
the  same  exror,  which  are  attributed  to  other  causes. 

2d.  "  That  the  error  is  universally  committed,  to  a  greater  or  less 
extent,  throughout  the  States,  and  that  he  has  seen  an  excess  of  it  where- 
ever  he  has  been,  which  is  in  the  Atlantic  States,  from  Georgia  to  Massa- 
chusetts, inclusive. 

3d.  "  That  the  Peach  and  Nectarine  are  more  easily  injured  by  the 
error  than  most  other  Fruit  trees,  and  the  canse  of  their  being  more  easily 
injured  by  it ;  and  that  this  error  causes  them  to  be  barren,  or  short-lived. 

4th.  "  That  the  application  of  two  known  laws  in  nature  demonstrate 
the  reality  of  his  discovery  and  its  application  to  the  whole  vegetable  king- 
dom ;  and  that  by  them,  his  discovery,  (if  publicly  known,!  must  be  per- 
petuated, and  his  practice  more  easily  introduced  :  and  that  by  these  two 
laws  the  occasional  success  of  common  remedies  is  explained. 

5th.  "  That  the  said  error  is  the  obstacle  which  has  discouraged  experi- 
menters, and  lamentably  retarded  improvements  in  the  science  and  practice 
of  agriculture ;  and  that  he  has  discovered  facts  and  made  himself  acquainted 
with  knowledire  sutficient  to  reduce  them  to  practice." 

We  are  forther  informed,  "  that  it  is  neither  climate,  nor  soil,  nor  insects, 
nor  worms,  that  are  the  cau.se  of  many  of  the  disastrous  effects  that  have 
been  attributed  to  them,  but  that  those  effects  are  proiluced  by  error  in  cul- 
tivation, which  diseases  the  smallest  plant  or  largest  tree." 

Our  modest  and  pali-iotic  feliaw-cithen  admits,  in  the  course  of  his 
preamble,  "  that  the  practical  part  of  his  discovery  is  so  extremely  simple 
and  economical,  that  it  costs  no  more  to  prevent  the  diseases  than  it  does 
to  produce  them  ;  and  that  it  is  so  different  from  the  established  theories 
and  habits  of  the  people,  that  unless  a  large  amount  be  appro- 
priated, many  will  be  unwilling  to  try  it,  and  therefore  the  public  good 
seems  to  require  that  a  large  amount  should  be  appropriated."  He  more- 
over  asserts,  that  "  there  are  two  known  laws  in  nature,  by  which  the  reality 
of  his  discovery,  and  its  apjilication  to  the  ivhole  vegetable  kingdom,  are 
demonstrable  in  less  than  thirty  words." 

That  this  invaluable  secret,  whatever  it  may  be,  is  not  strictly  speaking 
a  new  discovery,  is  demonstrable  by  numerous  living  witnesses  which  have 
inhabited  the  fields  of  the  old  world  for  over  a  thousand  years  ;  and  our 
discoverer  freely  admits,  and  in  very  emphatic  language,  that  there  are 
thousands  of  trees  in  our  own  country  on  which,  %vhat  he  terms  "the  com- 
mon error  "  has  never  been  committed  ;  and  also,  that  several  of  the  fifteen 
gentlemen  to  whom  he  communicated  his  secret, '' cotiJjde7itly  for  et>er,"  have 
some  such  trees  on  their  own  domains. 

Hear  him — "  The  Senator  from  Missouri,  (Mr.  Linn,!  said,  that  the  most 
flourishing  and  healthy  Peach  tree  in  his  possession  had  never  had  what  I 
call  the  common  error  in  cultivation  committed  upon  it." 

"The  Senator  from  Pennsylvania,  (Mr.  McKean,)  said,  that  he  had  long 
supposed  that  what  I  call  the  common  error,  was  an  error,  but  that  he  had 
no  idea  of  such  extensive  evils  arising  from  it." 

"The  Senator  from  Maryland,  (Mr,  Spence.)  said,  that  in  his  district  it 
Was  a  universal  custom  to  commit  what  I  call  the  common  error  in  cultiva- 
tion, on  the  fruit  trees,  and  that  it  was  common  to  have  no  Plums  perfect 


167 

and  free  from  worms,  excepting  on  a  few  of  his,  on  which  tlie  error 
had  not  been  committed  for  twenty  years,  if  ever  ;  and  tiiose  few  (four) 
continued  to  bear  abundantly  annually  ;  that  he  had  no  recoiled  ion  of  ever 
seeing  an  imperfect  wormy  Plum  on  either  of  these  four  trees,  but  that  he 
had  never  supposed  that  to  have  been  the  cause  of  their  perfection." 

The  Senator  from  South  Carolina,  (Mr.  Calhoun.)  to  whom  I  am  indebted 
for  pointin;;  out  one  symptom  of  the  error,  and  for  a  valuable  suggestion  in 
the  culture  of  plants,  said,  "  while  examining  the  defective  trees  around  the 
Capitol,  that  the  principle  when  exhibited  was  very  plain  and  simple,  that 
it  was  philosophical,  and  in  his  opmion  it  could  not  be  neglected  without 
injury  to  the  health  and  growth  of  trees  and  plants,  and  deserving  of  pub- 
lic patronage." 

"The  Vice  President  of  the  United  States,  (Mr.  Johnson.)  said,  that  my 
discovery  was  perfectly  consistent  with  the  laws  of  nature;  and  (when 
observing  a  few  trees  near  the  Capitol,  which  had  been  injured  by  the  error, 
and  were  recovering.)  farther  remarked,  that  my  theory  was  essentially  cor- 
rect and  obvious  to  the  most  superficial  observer." 

"  The  member  from  New-York,  (Mr.  Jackson,)  said,  that  he  had  reared 
an  orchard  on  which  he  had  carefully  avoided  an  excess  of  what  1  call  the 
common  error,  and  that  it  had  been  admired  as  the  most  flourishing  and 
fruitful  orchard  in  the  neighbourhood  ;  and  that  he  had  recently  seen  a  field 
of  Indian  corn,  which  yielded  more  than  one  hundred  bushels  of  shelled 
grain  to  the  acre,  in  which  an  excess  of  the  error  had  been  avoided,  while 
the  success  was  attributed  to  quite  a  different  cause." 

From  the  preceding  exiracts,  it  is  evident  that  this  inestimable  treasure 
lays  near  the  surf.ice ;  and  from  the  disclosure  having  been  communicated 
to  rational  and  intelligent  minds,  it  is  preposterous  to  expect  that  those 
gentleman  can,  in  the  pursuit  of  their  rural  avocations,  act  directly  con- 
trary to  knowledge  and  sound  judgment ;  they  must,  therefore  necessarily 
and  unavoidably  communicate  the  secret  by  their  example,  which  will 
eventually  disseminate  in  proportion  as  mankind  take  an  interest  in  the 
merits  of  the  alleged  discovery. 

But  lest  the  full  benefits  of  this  invaluable  remedy  should  be  withheld 
from  the  community  for  want  of  the  action  of  the  United  States  Congress, 
I  have  submitted  an  exposition  of  my  views  of  the  particular  points 
adverted  to  in  the  preamble,  which  may  be  found  under  the  heads,  Necta- 
rine, Peach,  and  Plum,  pages  91,  98  and  124  of  the  third  part  of  the  present 
edition  of  the  Young  Gardener's  Assistant ;  and  I  would  furthermore 
remind  my  readers  that  the  directions  heretofore  given  in  this  and  previou.s 
editions  of  the  work  are  in  strict  accordance  with  the  same  doctrine  ;  and 
that  although  the  error  alluded  to  is  admitted  to  have  been  very  generally 
committed,  I  am  not  aware  that  any  writer  has  ever  taught  or  encouraged 
the  error,  either  direct  or  indirect ;  I  confess,  however,  that  I  have  been 
induced  to  expatiate  on  this  malpractice  in  horticulture  from  the  subject 
having  elicited  the  grave  consideration  of  enlightened  legislators  of  tliese 
United  States. 

And  lest  these  my  voluntary  disclosures  should  prove  to  have  no  bearing 
on  the  alleged  discovery,  I  would  prepare  the  public  mind  for  its  receptioa 
by  an  exhortation  to  temperance  and  moderation,  as  the  only  safe 
course  that  can  be  considered  applicable  to  the  cultivation  (f  all  the  varied 
species  of  plants,  which  comprise  "  the  whole  vegetable  kingdom."     ]  ti 


168 

articles  page  2G  of  the  first  part,  and  pages  16,  28  and  97  of  the  second 
part,  I  have  shown  that  the  various  species  of  plants  which  occupy  our 
greenhouses,  gardens,  and  fields,  require  each  their  peculiar  aliment — they 
having  been  collected  from  all  the  diversified  regions,  climates,  and  soils 
through  earth's  remotest  boun.ls  ;  they  consequently  comprise  natives  of 
niountaais  and  rocks,  as  well  as  of  plains,  valleys,  and  water  courses.  The 
most  essential  ahment  for  natives  of  warm  climates  and  dry  soils  being 
HEAT,  artificial  means  are  used  in  cool  seasons,  and  unpropitious  climates 
to  produce  it.  Natives  of  temperate  climates  require  salubrious  air,  hence 
they  are  cultivated  to  the  greatest  perfection  in  our  Northern  States  in 
spring  and  autumn  ;  and  in  our  Southern  States  in  the  winter;  seepage 
147  of  the  first  part;  and  natives  of  humid  climates,  as  also  amphibious 
plants  in  general,  require  a  more  than  ordinary  share  of  moisture,  and 
grow  best  in  wet  soil;  but  these  three  elements  collectively  constitute 
the  food  of  plants  in  general,  and  should  be  judiciously  imparted  to  the 
various  species,  in  due  proportions,  according  to  circumstances.  See  pages 
49,  64  and  67  of  the  first  part,  for  a  more  concise  view  of  this  subject.  I 
have  also  shown  that  the  roots  of  various  species  of  plants  require  each 
their  peculiar  aliment,  which  is  not  to  be  found  in  all  descriptions  of  land; 
this  is  demonstrated  by  roots  of  trees  being  frequently  discovered  spreading 
beyond  their  ordinary  bounds  in  quest  of  salutary  food. 

Although  it  has  been  admitted  that  excessive  deep  planting  of  trees  and 
plants  is  injurious,  and  in  many  cases  fital  to  their  very  existence,  it  does 
not  follow  that  all  annuals  and  biennials  are  injured  by  the  same  means  ; 
on  the  contrary,  the  earthing  up  of  particular  species  of  plants  in  a  late 
stage  of  growth  is  calculated  to  promote  early  maturity,  which  constitutes 
the  most  essential  art  in  gardening  for  the  market;  because  the  earliest 
crops  are  always  the  most  profitable.  It  is  moreover  a  necessary  practice 
in  climates  where  the  seasons  for  gardening  are  short — as  without  such 
practice,  many  kinds  of  vegetables  could  not  possibly  be  matured  in  due 
season  for  gathering  before  winter. 

I  would  here  take  the  opportunity  of  proving  this  last  position,  by 
reminding  the  reader  that  the  effects  of  deep  planting,  the  Peach  tree  for 
instance,  is  discoverable  soon  after  the  error  is  committed,  by  its  fruit  ripen- 
ing prematurely,  and  this  is  often  the  case  for  a  year  or  two  prior  to  its 
final  decease,  and  should  operate  as  a  salutary  lesson  against  plantmg 
perennial  plants  and  trees  too  deep. 

In  conclusion  of  this  article,  which  is  intended  as  an  appendage  to  my 
works  on  gardening,  I  would  urge  gardeners  and  cultivators  to  consult  the 
operations  of  nature  in  all  their  rural  pursuits ;  and  with  a  view  to  aid 
them,  I  subjoin  the  following  rules,  which  are  farther  illustrated  under  the 
diiferent  heads : 

1.  In  transplanting  fruit  trees,  let  the  collar,  or  that  part  from  which 
emanate  the  main  roots,  be  near  the  surface.  A  medium  sized  tree  may  be 
planted  an  inch  deeper  than  it  was  in  the  nursery  bed ;  and  the  largest 
should  not  exceed  two  or  three  inches.  See  pages  93,  101  and  125  of  the 
third  part  of  the  present  edition  of  the  Young  Gardener's  Assistant. 

2.  In  the  cultivation  of  such  plants  as  are  transplanted,  or  grown  in  hills 
or  clusters,  as  Indian  Corn,  &;c.,  keep  the  earth  loose  but  level  around  them 
iu  their  early  stages  of  growth,  by  frequent  hoeing,  ploughing,  or  culti- 


169 

vating  ;  and  to  promote  early    maturity,    throw  a  moderate  portion   of 
earth  about  the  roots  and  stems  at  the  last  or  final  dressing. 

3.  In  tile  sowing  of  seed,  remember  that  in  unity  therk  is  strkngth, 
and  that  from  the  germinative  parts  of  a  seed  being  weak  and  diminutive, 
it  cannot  be  expected  to  perforate  through  the  soil,  solitary  and  alone.  To 
insure  a  fair  chance  plant  your  seed  moderately  thick,  and  thin  out  the 
surplus  plants  while  young.  In  planting  seed  in  drills,  which  is  the  most 
eligible  plan,  the  size  of  tlie  seed  and  strength  of  its  germ  should  be  consi- 
dered ;  large  seed,  producing  vigorous  roots,  require  deeper  planting  than 
diminutive  seed,  producing  delicate  roots  and  slender  stalks. 

4.  In  the  choice  of  compost  for  exotic  or  greenhouse  plants,  imitate  the 
native  soil  of  each  peculiar  species  as  nearly  as  possible,  by  a  judicious 
mixture  of  maiden  earth,  loam,  sand,  leaf  swamp,  and  rock  mould,  decom- 
posed manures,  and  such  other  composts  as  aie  recommended  under  the 
different  heads.  Remember,  that  although  strong  manure  is  essential  to 
the  growth  of  some  plants,  it  is  poisonous  to  others.  Pursue,  then,  a 
MEDIUM  COURSE.  From  your  soil  not  being  too  stiff  or  two  lif^ht,  too  rich 
or  too  poor,  too  cool  or  too  warm,  too  close  or  too  porous,  if  not  positively 
salutary  and  congenial  to  all,  it  must  render  the  situation  of  each  endura- 
ble. I  again  repeat,  that  temperance  in  the  use  of  aliment,  is  as  essential 
to  the  welfare  of  the  vegetable  family  as  it  is  to  the  health,  happiness,  and 
tongevity  of  mankind. 

T.  BRIDGEMAN. 

New-York,  March  4,  1840. 

§5"  Since  this  address  has  been  in  press,  I  have  seen  another  article  in 
the  PoughUeepsie  Eagle,  dated  February  29,  1840,  wherein  our  modest 
and  patriotic  i/wrawrf/- gratuitously  pronounces  his  knowledge  as  superior 
to  that  of  "  all  Butanical  and  Agricultural  know7i  writers  .'"  As  I  have 
anticipated  the  merits  of  this  second  valuable  discovery  in  my  books,  I  have 
nothing  more  to  say  than  to  remind  the  reader  that  this  uncalled  for  attack 
on  the  brethren  of  my  fraternity,  fully  justifies  not  merely  the  publication, 
but  the  most  general  circulation  of  these  my  voluntary  disclosures. 


RETROSPECTIVE   VIEW. 

This  summary  view  of  estimates  is  annexed,  in  order  to  aid  the  Seeds- 
man and  Gardener  in  making  out  a  bill  of  seed  for  the  purpose  of  planting 
any  given  quantity  of  ground,  under  the  regulations  suggested  in  the 
Vegetable  Department  of  the  Young  Gardener's  Assistant,  to  which  the 
reader  is  referred  for  a  more  concise  view  of  the  subject. 

Page. 
Artichoke  ;  an  ounce  of  seed  will  produce  600  plants,  -         -         31 

Asparagus;  one  ounce  will  be  sufficient  fjr  1000  plants         -         -         35 
Beans,  English  Dwarf;  one  quart  of  seed  will   be  required  for  every 

sixty  feet  of  row,  -•--....40 

Beans.  Kidney  Dwarf;  one  quart  of  seed  will  plant  from  350  to  400 

hills,  or  from  230  to  260  feet  of  row, 42 


170  RETROSPECTIVE    VIEW. 

Page. 
Beans  Pole,  or  Running  ;  one  quart  of  Lima,  or  large  running  Beans 

will  plant  about  300  hills,  or  250  feet  of  row,    -         -         -         -  43 

Beet ;  one  ounce  may  be  allotted  for  every  perch,  or  pole,      -         -  45 

Borecole,  or  Kale  ,  an  ounce  will  produce  4000  plants,           -         -  46 

Broccoli;  one  ounce  is  sufficient  for  4000  plants,     -         -         -         -  50 

Cauliflower  ;  an  ounce  of  this  seed  will  produce  4000  plants,           -  53 

Cabbage  ;  one  ounce  will  produce  4000  plants,      ...         -  55 

Cardoon  Artichoke  ;  an  ounce  will  produce  600  plants,          -         -  53 

Carrot;  half  an  ounce  may  be  allotted  for  every  pole,    -         -         -  59 

Celery  ;  an  ounce  of  seed  will  produce  10,000  plants,  -         -         -  60 
Corn  Salad,  or  Fetticus  ;  one  ounce  of  seed  willsow  about  two  poles 

of  ground, --63 

Cucumber ;  one  ounce  of  seed  is  sufficient  for  200  hills,         .         .  65 

Egg  Plant ;  an  ounce  of  seed  will  produce  4000  plants,           -         -  67 

Endive,  or  Succory  ;  an  ounce  will  yield  5000  plants,    -         -         -  68 

Leek;  one  ounce  of  seed  may  be  allotted  for  3000  plants,       -         -  71 

Lettuce  ;  an  ounce  will  produce,  say  10,000  plants,       -         -         -  73 

Melon  ;  one  ounce  of  seed  will  produce  from  120  to  150  hills,        -  74 

Melon,  Water ;  an  ounce  will  plant  from  40  to  50  hills,         -         -  75 

Onion;  one  ounce  of  seed  may  be  allotted  for  every  pole,      -         -  78 

Parsley  ;  two  ounces  may  be  allowed  for  three  perches,          .         .  80 

Parsnip  ;  two  ounces  may  be  allotted  for  three  perches,           -         -  81 

Pepper;  one  ounce  of  seed  will  produce  3000  plants,    -         -         -  82 

Peas  ;  one  quart  will  plant  from  150  to  200  feet  of  row,         -         -  84 

Potatoes  ;  from  twelve  to  sixteen  bushels  may  be  allotted  for  an  acre,  85 
Potatoes,  Sweet;  half  a  peck  of  seed,  properly  managed,  will  produce 

15  bushels, ....86 

Pumpkin  ;  one  quart  of  field  Pumpkin  will  plant  from   500  to  600 

hills,  and  one  ounce  of  the  finest  kinds  will  plant  from  50  to  80  hills,  87 
Radish;  four  ounces  will  do  for  every  three  perches,  if  sown  broad- 
cast, and  about  half  the  quantity  if  sown  in  drills,  ...  89 
Salsify  ;  two  ounces  of  this  seed  will  plant  three  perches,  -  -  93 
Shallots;  four  bushels  of  bulbs  will  plant  forty  poles,  -  -  -  9S 
Spinach  ;  if  cultivated  in  drills,  four  ounces  will  plant  five  perches  of 

land.     If  broadcast,  it  will  require  double  the  quantity,       -         -  99 
Squash;  an  ounce  of  seed  will  plant  from  50  to  100   hills,  according 

to  sorts  and  size, 100 

Tomato;  one  ounce  of  seed  will  produce  4000  plants,          -         -  101 

Turnip  ;  one  pound  of  seed  is  sufficient  for  an  acre  of  land,           -  105 

QUANTITY  OF  GRASS   SEED  SUITABLE  TO  THE  ACRE. 


Clover,  sown  alone,  -  -  12  pounds. 

Timothy, 1  peck. 

Herds  Grass, l  bushel. 


Orchard  Grass,  ...      2  bushels. 
Rye  Grass,  ......  2  bushels. 

Lucerne,  ..-.--      8  pounds. 


For  a  pasture  for  grazing,  the  following  mixtures  of  seed  would  be  found 
excellent,  viz  :  6  pounds  of  clover  seed,  1  peck  of  herds  grass,  and  half  a 
bushel  of  Orchard  grass  seed —or  6  pounds  clover,  half  a  bushel  of  rye 
grass,  and  half  a  bushel  of  tall  meadow  oat  seed. 


171 


COMMENDATORY  NOTICES. 


"The  first  edition  of  "The  Young  Gardener's  Assistant"  has  been 
favourably  noticed  in  France  : — "  One  of  the  leading  articles  of  the  Annales 
de  CliistUute  Royal  Horticolc  de  Fromont,  is  a  long  notice  of  "  The  Young 
Gardener's  Assistant,"  by  Mr.  Thomas  Bridgeman,  of  this  city.  The 
editor,  Le  Chevalier  Soulange  Bodin,  speaks  of  the  little  work  in  very- 
commendable  terms." — New  York  Farmer. 

Extract  of  a  review  of  this  work  in  the  Magazine  of  Horticulture,  Botany, 
&c.,  published  by  Hovey  &  Co.,  Boston  : 
"The  work  is  written  in  plain  language,  easily  to  be  understood  by  the 
young  beginner  in  gardening,  who  will  tind  it  a  great  help  ;  and  its  value, 
even  to  the  experienced  person,  is  by  no  means  of  an  ordinary  character. 
It  is  adaptkd  to  our  climate,  and  unlike  compilations  from  English 
works,  the  novice  is  not  led  into  disappointment  by  following  the  rules 
there  laid  down,  as  he  generally  is,  when  following  the  advice  of  the  latter. 
We  repeat,  that  as  far  as  the  book  pretends,  it  is  worth  all  otheiis  of 

A   SIMILAR   CHARACTER   THAT    IIAVi;   EVKR   BEKN   PUULISHED   IN    THIS   COUN- 

tk-v  ;  and  its  cheapness  should  place  it  in  the  hands  of  all  new  beginners." 

"No  work  ever  published  has  been  so  studiously  written  to  give  plain 
useful  information.  By  being  arranged  in  the  form  of  a  catalogue,  you 
can  turn  in  a  moment  to  any  name  you  desire,  where  the  time  of  sowing, 
depth,  soil,  after  treatment,  &c.  &c.,  is  clearly  defined.  The  Calcndarial 
Index,  giving  a  summary  of  work  for  every  month,  is  itself  worth  the  whole 
price  of  the  book,  and  must  iiave  cost  the  author  much  research  and  labor- 
ious thought.  Mr.  Bridgeman  is  not  a  theorist,  but  is  in  the  daily  practice 
of  what  he  writes,  and  of  course  well  qualified  to  direct  all  beginners  in  the 
profitable  and  delightful  employment  of  cultivating  a  garden,  '  a  profession 
and  an  employment  for  which  no  man  is  too  high  or  too  low.'  " — Genessee 
Farmer. 

"It  will,  we  are  persuaded,  be  found,  what  the  writer  intends  it  shall  be, 
'  generally  useful  to  such  as  may  wish  to  superintend,  or  take  the  manage- 
ment of  their  own  gardens.'  Mr.  Bridgeman  is  a  gardener  himself,  in  the 
Bowery  road,  and  his  directions  are  therefore  applicable  to  our  climate — an 
advantage  of  no  little  moment." — American- 

"Among  the  plants  for  the  cultivation  of  which  '  The  Young  Gardener's 
Assistant '  contains  directions,  are  a  number  of  culinary  vegetables  not 
generally  introduced  in  the  United  States.  The  introduction  and  success- 
ful cultivation  of  useful  foreign  vegetables  add  to  the  resources  of  our 
country.  We  recently  saw,  for  instance,  in  Mr.  Bridgeman's  garden,  seve- 
ral varieties  of  Broad  Beans,  Vicia  fuba,  in  a  most  vigorous  and  thrifty- 
growth.  They  occupied  a  clayey  spot  of  ground  that  was  not  suitable  so 
early  in  the  season  for  any  other  vegetable.  They  put  forth  a  beautiful 
blossom,  and  would  serve  as  an  ornament  for  the  flower  garden." — Neny 
York  Farmer. 


172  COMMENDATORY    NOTICES. 

"Bridoebian's  Garden fr's  Assistant. — The  fourth  edition  of  this 
useful  little  manual  is  published,  and  is  rendered  of  increased  value  by  the 
addition  of  several  matters  not  contained  in  either  of  the  former  editions. 
Among  these  is  a  short  and  convenient  calendar  to  assist  the  gardener's 
memory." — Evening  Post. 

"  No  work  on  the  sn'iject  of  Kitchen  Girdening  ever  published  in  this 
country  has  met  with  so  very  general  approbation  and  extensive  sale.  Mr. 
Bridgeman  is  well  known  as  one  of  our  best  gardeners,  and  writes  from  his 
ovwi  experience  " — Daily  Express. 

"That  work  which  teaches  us  how  to  create  and  to  improve  this  most 
innocent  and  useful  source  of  pleasure,  is  surely  worthy  of  applause  and 
patronage  ;  and  such  we  consider  'The  Young  Gardener's  Assistant.'" — 
Miming  Herald. 

"  The  work  is  calculated  to  be  of  immense  service  to  those  engaged  in 
Agriculture,  '  far  from  the  busy  haunts  of  men,'  and  to  the  disciples  of 
Flora,  ill  the  cit3^  Mr.  Bridj;em:in  is  a  practical  gardener  and  seedsman, 
and  has  lived  many  years  on  both  sides  of  the  Atlantic." — Old  Countryman. 
"From  what  we  gather  from  the  tenor  of  Mr.  Bridgeman's  book,  we 
should  suppose  that  he  paid  but  little  attention  to  the  mere  on  dits  or  dic- 
tU'ttui  of  any,  but  tlial  he  pursued  that  course  which  his  judgment  pointed 
out  J  and  in  this  particular,  we  value  his  book — leading  the  young  gardener 
to  depend  more  on  his  own  judgment  than  on  the  rules  of  custom." 
Arnerican  Farmer. 

"All  tho.^e  who  are  desirous  of  a  work  on  the  subject  of  Gardening,  anil 
ffne  which  will  convey  the  best  information  on  tlie  management  of  Hot- 
beds, Aspaiagus  beds,  best  mode  of  raising  all  sorts  of  Esculent  Vegetables, 
Pruning,  Grafting  and  Budding  Fruit  Trees,  Training  the  Vine,  Preserving 
the  Fruit  from  Mildew,  &c.,  sliouid  procure  this.  No  work  on  the  subject 
ever  published  in  this  country  has  met  with  half  as  extensive  a  sale,  or 
decided  public  approbition,  as  this  valuable  compendium.  Mr.  Bridgeman 
fully  under.stands  the  subject  on  which  he  treats.  The  very  rapid  sale  of 
Uie  eight  former  editions  is  quite  a  sufficient  recommendation." — G.  C. 
Tkwbum,  in  the  Evening  Star- 

"  Wo  con  assure  gardeners  and  farmers  that  they  will  in  limes  and  ways 
almost  without  number,  be  amply  compensated  by  purchasing  the  book. 
Mr.  Bridgeman  bestows  great  labour  on  his  productions  of  the  pen,  not 
only  as  to  practical  matter  of  fact,  but  to  the  various  excellences  of  style 
pirticularly  to  clearness,  and  the  avoiding  a  redundancy  of  words.  The 
amount  of  useful  information  in  the  book  constitutes  its  value;  and  all  this 
information  is  adapted  to  this  country,  and  its  climate  and  its  soil." — 
American  Gardener's  Magazine. 

"  From  the  cursory  examination  we  have  been  enabled  to  give  'The 
Young  Gardener's  Assistant,'  we  should  judge  that  it  embraces  a  greater 
amount  of  practical  information,  applicable  to  our  climate,  than  can  be 
found  in  any  similar  work.  The  list  of  fruit  trees  has  been  selected  from 
the  best  authorities,  both  foreign  and  American,  and  is  sufficiently  exten- 
sive for  any  cultivator  in  this  country." — Newark  Daily  Advertiser 


COMMENDATORY    NOTICES.  173 

"The  author  is  an  experienced  practical  gardener  and  seedsman,  and  his 
book  is  an  excellent  manual  and  guide  for  the  beginner,  whether  old  or 
young,  in  horlicullural  pursuits." — Gazette. 

"  From  the  systematic  arrangement  of  the  parts,  under  appropriate  heads, 
and  the  plain  and  practical  nature  of  the  instructions,  it  must  be  an  invalua- 
ble manual  for  those  who  may  wish  to  superintend  the  management  of 
their  own  gardens. — Albany  Argus. 

Extract  of  a  letter  from  Alex'r  Walsh,  Esq.,  Lansinburg: 
Dear  Sir: — You  will  see  by  the  next  month's  New-York  Farmer,  if  you 
have  not  already  seen  by  the  Albany  papers,  that  several  copies  of  the 
Y'oung  Gardener's  Assistant  have  been  given  as  premiums,  by  the  State 
Agricultural  Society.  Mr.  D.  B- Slingerland  and  myself  were  on  the  com- 
mittee for  awarding  premiums,  and  thought  your  work  was  deserving 
encouragement ;  and  that  even  in  this  small  way  we  might  be  of  service  in 
bringing  it  before  the  public  as  worthy  of  being  given  as  premiums."* 

"Written  with  a  good  deal  of  practical  knowledge  of  the  subject  on 
which  it  treats.  The  directions  given,  the  author  says,  are  the  result  of 
twenty  years'  experience,  and  we  dare  to  say.  that  though  submitted  in  an 
•unpretending  form,  they  will  be  found  as  useful,  if  not  more  so,  than  those 
in  more  costly  and  expensive  works."— CouWer  c^  Enquirer. 

"We  have  undoubted  authority  for  pronouncing  this  work  as  worth  all 
others  of  a  similar  character  that  have  ever  been  published  in  this  conntry. 
from  its  adaptation  to  all  the  climates  in  the  United  Stales."— JV.  Y.  Sim. 

"  That  this  is  a  useful  work  is  evident  from  the  number  of  editions 
through  which  it  has  passed.  There  is  scarcely  any  employment  in  life 
more  pleasing  than  the  cultivation  of  a  Garden  with  Fruits  and  Flowers. 
Those  who  have  the  opportunity  to  indulge  themselves  in  this  gratification, 
we  have  no  doubt  will  derive  much  assistance  from  this  publication." — N. 
Y.  Tribune. 

"  Every  one  that  cultivates  a  garden  should  possess  the  work,  as  it  is  a 
complete  dictionary  for  young  beginners  in  the  delightful  field  of  Horticul- 
ture."— Working  Man's  Advocate- 

"  No  work  on  the  subject  ever  published  in  this  country  has  met  with 
half  as  extensive  a  sale  or  decided  approbation,  as  this  valuable  compen- 
dium. Mr.  Bridgeman  fully  understands,  from  practical  experience,  the 
subject  on  which  he  treats.  The  Calendarial  Index  arranges  the  work  for 
every  month,  and  refers  to  the  various  parts  of  tlie  book  how  to  proceed. 
This  of  itself  is  worth  the  price  of  the  whole  work,  and  cost  the  author 
immense  labour.  The  rapid  sale  of  the  former  editions,  together  with  the 
commendation  of  every  Agricultural  and  Horticultural  Journal  in  America, 
and  several  in  England,  is  quite  sufficient  recommendation.  The  present 
edition  both  explains  and  fully  makes  known  what  was  thought  to  be  a 
great  discovery  (as  great  as  steam)  on  the  preservation  of  Fruit  Trees, 
Plants,  &c.,  and  which,  to  mal;e  known  to  the  people  of  these  United 
States,  an  application  was  made  to  the  2.5th  Congress  to  vote  the  supposed 


•  The  American  Institute  has  also  awarded  several  copies  of  this  work  as  premiumgfoj 
guperiot  specimens  of  garden  products. 


174  COMMENDATORY    NOTICES. 

author  of  the  discovery  a  sum  equal  to  five  cents  from  each  individual  in  the 
United  States — or  about  a  million  of  dollars.  Mr.  Bridgeman  has  clearly 
proved  this  discovery  from  his  long  observation  of  the  course  of  nature  and 
treatment  of  Trees  and  plants,  and  which  only  occupies  some  four  or  five 
pages  of  the  work." — N-  Y.  Commercial,  by  G.  C.  Thorburn. 


•'  The  Florist's  Guide. — A  delightful  little  book,  which  we  advise  every 
body  to  purchase — at  least  every  body  that  has  the  least  liking  for  the 
pleasing  occupation  on  which  it  treats." — Courier  <.V  Enquirer, 

"The  Florist's  Guide,"  like  its  companion,  "  The  Young  Gardener's  As- 
sistant," is  a  useful  work,  which  every  Gardener  and  Florist  may  consult 
to  advantage.  It  gives  minute  directions  concerning  plants  of  various  spe- 
cies; the  names  and  characters  of  each  being  alphabetically  arranged,  makes 
it  an  invaluable  manual  for  those  who  may  wish  to  superintend  the 
management  of  their  own  gardens." — Newark  Daily  Advertiser. 

"  This  is  one  of  the  best  works  on  the  subject  ever  published  in  any 
country  :  it  contains  Practical  Directions  for  the  Cultivation  of  Annual, 
Biennial,  and  Perennial  Flowering  Plants,  of  different  classes,  Herbaceous 
and  Shrubby,  Bulbous,  Fibrous,  and  Tuberous-rooted,  including  the  Double 
Dahlia,  Greenhouse  Plants  in  Rooms,  &c.  &c. 

"A  work  of  the  above  kind  has  been  long  wanted;  hitherto,  it  required 
an  expenditure  of  some  three  or  four  dollars  to  get  any  kind  of  readable 
directions  for  small  gardens,  window  gardening,  plants  in  rooms,  &c., 
which,  when  procured,  were  so  full  of  botanical  foppery,  that  plain,  honest 
people,  after  wading  through  some  three  or  four  hundred  pages,  were  as 
wise  as  to  knowing  how  to  set  about  their  gardening,  as  when  they  com- 
menced their  book.  The  present  little  work  obviates  all  these  difficulties. 
The  author  is  well  known  as  one  of  our  practical  gardeners,  and  it  may  be 
truly  said  he  has  rendered  the  ladies  in  particular  (for  whom  the  work  was 
projected)  an  essential  service  ;  the  directions  for  the  care  of  the  Camellia 
Japonica,  the  Double  Dahlia,  the  sowing  and  treatment  of  Annual 
Flower  Seed,  &&,  are  alone  worth  double  the  price  of  the  book  ;  so  is  the 
Calendarial  Index,  which,  by  the  untiring  industry  of  Mr.  Bridgeman,  is 
made  to  include  in  some  half  dozen  pages,  more  valuable  information  than 
is  to  be  found  in  some  ponderous  octavos  on  the  same  subject." — G.  C* 
Thorburn,  from  tke  N.  Y.  Commercial. 

"  The  style  is  free,  and  the  language  appropriate  ;  the  plan  is  judicious, 
and  the  contents  embrace  much  well  arranged  practical  information,  unen- 
cumbered with  disquisitions  foreign  to  the  object  of  the  work.  We  very 
cheerfully  recommend  it  to  our  readers  as  a  cheap  and  useful  book." — 
Gardener's  Magazine. 


The  Florist's  Guide  has  also  been  very  favourably  noticed  by  the  editors 
of  many  other  very  respectable  periodicals,  as  a  work  eminently  calculated 
to  promote  a  love  for  the  cultivation  and  correct  management  of  flowers — 
the  study  of  which,  remarks  one  of  these  writers,  "  refines  the  taste,  and 
imparts  just  and  ennobling  views  of  the  wise  provisions  of  nature." 


175 


LINES 


SUGGESTED  BY  THE  AWARD  OF  A  GOLD  MEDAL  TO  THE  AUTHOR 
OF  '  THE  YOUNG  GAUDENER's  ASSISTANT,'  AT  THE  FOURTEENTH 
ANNUAL  FAIR  OF  THE  AMERICAN  INSTITUTE,  1841,  FOR  ITS 
GREAT  PRACTICAL  UTILITY. 


BY  D.  MITCHELL. 


As  Valor's  meed,  and  Honor's  brightest  test, 
I've  seen  a  Medal  on  a  Warrior's  breast ; 
But  to  my  mind  it  brought  sad  scenes  to  view — 
The  sweeping  carnage  of  red  Waterloo — 
Th;  orphan's  tear — the  widow's  drooping  head. 
For  slaughter'd  heroes  on  false  glory's  bed — 
The  earth  made  desolate,  its  fruits  despoil' d, 
By  mad  Ambition,  fearless  and  unfoil'd  ! 
Not  so  the  Token  thou  hast  gained  from  Peace, 
Thou  lov'st  to  see  fair  Nature's  wide  increase, 
And  the  "  Young  Gard'ner,"  in  thy  fertile  book. 
Finds  an  "  Assistant "  not  to  be  mistook  ! 
Thine  is  the  pleasing  art  to  cultivate, 
Fill  Plenty's  horn,  and  better  man's  estate ; 
Thine  is  the  wish  the  Cotter's  life  to  mend. 
And  teach  him  that  a  garden  is  his  friend  : 
That  Virtue  smiles — sheds  blessings  on  his  head, 
And  makes  him  happy  in  his  humble  shed, 
Who  tends  his  "  little  patch  "  in  well  spent  hours, 
Amid  his  kitchen  treasures  and  his  flowers; 
That  Vice  ne'er  mars  a  lovely  scene  like  this — 
The  consummation  of  the  poor  man's  bliss  ! 
Health,  my  firm  friend,  long  life  and  health  to  thee, 
Health  to  the  scions  from  the  parent  tree : 
Well  may  thy  trophy  be  a  source  of  pride, 
May  they  preserve  it,  whatsoe'r  betide : 
'Tia  a  memento  for  imparting  good. 
More  nobly  won  than  that  for  shedding  blood ! 


APPENDIX, 

CONTAINING  REMARKS  ON  THE  ALLEGED  DISEASE  OF  THE  POTATO. 


As  I  have  not  in  the  article  Potato,  page  86,  attempted  to  give  its 
history,  I  would  here  inform  the  reader,  that  the  Potato  was  cultivated 
in  Britain,  by  Gerard,  the  English  Botanist,  in  1590,  and  was  soon  after- 
wards recommended  by  Sir  Walter  Raleigh  as  a  nutritious  vegetable; 
but  although  first  discovered  on  this  continent,  it  spread  so  slowly,  that 
near'y  a  century  elapsed  before  this  excellent  root  had  become  a  regular 
dish  on  the  Farmer's  table  in  New  England.  The  following  account 
of  the  early  reception  is  too  good  to  be  lost.  It  is  recorded  in  the  N.  Y. 
Farmer  and  Mechanic  that  two  brothers,  named  Clarke,  settled  in  Con- 
necticut, early  in  the  18lh  century,  and  purchased  a  farm  near  Chatham. 
"  On  a  hill  which  still  bears  the  name  of  Clarke  Hill,  half  a  peck  of 
potatoes  were  planted,  and  after  the  balls  had  ripened  on  the  vines,  it 
was  proposed  to  gather  some  with  a  view  to  taste  the  wonderful  pro- 
duct; some  balls  were  accordingly  picked  and  boiled,  and  being  placed 
on  the  table,  were  approached  with  great  caution.  It  was  at  length 
concluded  that  an  old  negro  should  first  taste  of  this  rare  vegetable, 
whose  report  was  by  no  means  satisfactory;  others  also  tasted,  and  the 
dish  was  condemned  as  unworthy  their  table  and  attention ;  the  negro 
was  therefore  directed  to  go  and  destroy  the  vines ;  in  doing  so,  he 
pulled  up  some  potatoes  with  the  tops ;  and,  amazed  at  the  sight,  soon 
elicited  the  discovery  that  the  real  fruit  was  to  be  looked  for  at  the  root 
end  of  the  plant." 

As  this  vegetable  is  now  considered  one  of  the  most  important  pro- 
ductions of  the  earth,  upwards  of  one  hundred  millions  of  bushels 
being  raised  in  the  United  States  in  a  single  year,  a  deficient  or  defec- 
tive crop  is  acknowledged  by  all  to  be  such  a  serious  calamity  as  to 
incite  the  most  diligent  enquiry  into  the  nature  and  cause  of  the  defect, 
or  deficiency. 

As  the  seasons  of  1843  and  '4  were  unfavorable  to  the  growth  and 
preservation  of  late  potatoes,  the  American  Institute  encouraged  an 
investigation  and  discussion  of  the  subject  amongst  the  members  of  the 


178  APPENDIX. 

Farmers'  Club;  the  result  of  which  was  published  in  the  "New-York 
Farmer  and  Mechanic,"  vol.  ii.,  November,  1844,  from  which  I  have 
selected  the  following  extracts : 

"  That  the  disease  may  proceed  from  some  chemical  action  in  the 
atmosphere,  or  from  peculiar  location,  as  high  or  low,  new  or  old 
land,  and  that  some  varieties  are  more  liable  to  disease  than  others," 
page  290. 

"  That  the  potato  disease  was  imported  from  Great  Britain  two  or 
three  years  ago ;  and  that  a  gentleman,  from  microscopic  examination, 
discovered  in  the  tubers  a  growth  of  fungus,  a  plant  analagous  to  the 
mushroom  family.  These  fungi  seeds  although  invisible  to  the  naked 
eye  are  readily  carried  about  by  the  winds,  and  will  penetrate  wherever 
air  will.  Baing  once  introduced  from  Europe,  their  extensive  dissemi- 
nation here  is  very  easy.  These  seeds  falling  On  the  potato  in  favour- 
able circumstances  as  to  moisture,  &c.  cause  the  disease,"  291.*  The 
application  of  common  salt  to  the  soil,  previous  to  planting,  is  suggested 
as  a  remedy.  Lime  and  charcoal  dust  sown  on  the  ground  after  plant- 
ing is  also  recommended. 

Another  correspondent  asserts,  "  that  the  disease  is  an  old  one,  having 
been  long  known  in  Germany,  as  well  as  in  England,  and  that  there 
are  in  fact  two  distinct  distempers,  one  of  which  is  called  dry  rot,  and 
the  other  wet  rot;  the  dry  rot  often  appears  in  a  whitish  .surface;  if 
the  wet  rot  sets  in,  it  is  black,  and  soft  worms  are  to  be  found  in  the 
putrifying  parts.  The  direct  origin  of  the  disease  is  a  fungus,  the 
remote  origin  is  something  else.  One  of  the  most  fertile  causes  of  this 
disease  is  the  habit  of  using  farm  yard  manure  in  a  state  of  fermentation. f 
Plants,  in  a  healthy  growing  state,  are  rarely  attacked  by  the  fungus ; 
probably,  therefore,  some  change  takes  place  in  potatoes  before  the 
fungus  begins,"  page  307. 

*  If  it  be  true  that  an  infectious  disease  exists  amongst  the  potatoes  of  that  country,  n  hich 
contains  a  less  quantity  of  land  than  one  of  our  largest  States,  it  may  be  asked,  liow  a  pro- 
portion could  be  shipped  here  in  an  eatable  and  plai  table  condition,  after  reserving  a  sufficiency 
for  a  population  of  upwards  of  twenty  millions  of  inhabitants,  wlio  raise  them  for  their  caUie 
as  well  as  for  table  use. 

■t  It  is  upwards  of  thirty  years  since  I  commenced  cultivating  potatoes,  whicli,  according  to 
ths  seasons,  has  been  attended  with  variable  success.  In  1820  my  potatoes  were  so  bad  as 
to  be  scarcely  eatable,  I  however  planted  some  of  them  for  seed  the  year  following,  on  land 
situated  near  the  Bowery,  whore  Third  street  now  is,  which  was  manured  with  livery  stable 
dung  ;  and  the  pr  iduct  was  the  best  1  ever  eat.  Last  season  several  of  my  acquaintance  raised 
their  early  and  late  crops  from  the  same  lot  of  seed,  with  different  results.  Those  planted  in 
April  produced  an  abundance  of  excellent  potatoes,  while  the  product  of  those  planted  in  June 
and  July  were  represented  as  diseased  and  scarcely  worth  digging.  The  difference  in  all  those 
cases  must  have  been  occasioned  by  the  weather  and  not  by  the  seed.  A  change  of  soil  how- 
ever, will  sometimes  cause  a  difference  in  the  quality  of  potatoes. 


APPENDIX  179 

"  That  the  disease  in  the  potato  arises  from  a  small  fly  which  la)'s 
its  eggs  in  the  vines  shortly  after  they  come  up,  which  turn  into  maggots 
and  pass  through  the  tube  of  the  vine  into  the  potato.  A  table  spoon- 
ful of  poudrette  to  each  plant  is  in  this  case  recommended  as  a  pre- 
ventive," page  324. 

Others  contend  that  as  every  plant  cultivated  in  the  same  soil  for  a 
Jong  period  is  liable  to  become  deteriorated,  a  new  generation  of  plants 
from  seed  of  a  healthy  crop  is  essential  to  preserve  their  pristine  excel- 
lence. A  gentleman  present,  however,  informed  the  Club,  that  his 
seedlings  were  found  in  a  decayed  state  the  same  as  others,"  page  290. 

As  it  is  not  my  intention  to  discourage  a  farther  investigation  of  this 
subject,  I  shall  not  pass  censure  upon  the  ideas  above  advanced,  but 
offer  a  few  remarks  founded  on  observation  and  the  study  of  nature, 
which,  I  trust,  will  prove  acceptable  to  the  public. 

I  have,  in  several  pages  of  "  the  Young  Gardener's  Assistant,"  re- 
minded my  readers  that  the  various  species  of  plants  which  are  cultivated 
in  our  gardens  and  fields,  require  each  their  peculiar  aliment,  they 
having  been  collected  from  all  the  diversified  climates  and  soils  in  our 
globe ;  and  I  would  here  add,  that  it  is  a  matter  of  astonishment,  that 
so  large  a  proportion  of  the  fruits  of  the  earth  should  be  produced  m 
perfection  in  any  one  climate,  especially  in  unfavourable  weather,  to 
which  every  part  of  the  earth  is  at  times  liable. 

In  page  26  of  the  first  part,  I  have  furnished  a  classification  of  the 
most  important  vegetables  cultivated  in  our  gardens,  in  which  I  have 
shown  that  the  most  essential  aliment  to  natives  of  warm  climates  is 
heat,  and  of  temperate  climates  moisture,  and  that  the  three  elements 
HEAT,  AIR,  and  MOISTURE,  Constitute  the  food  of  plants  in  general.  I 
have  also  recommended  my  readers  to  make  choice  of  the  seasons  best 
adapted  to  the  various  articles  they  may  wish  to  cultivate,  as  it  is  an 
indubitable  fact  that  the  element  essential  to  the  production  of  some 
vegetables  is  destructive  to  others,  which  in  reality  cannot  be  raised  at 
all  under  unpropitious  circumstances.  In  proof  of  the  above  assertion, 
I  would  remind  the  reader  that  various  kinds  of  fruit  are  deficient  in 
unfavourable  seasons.  Cherries  for  instance,  in  the  event  of  a  single 
week's  rain,  in  a  certain  stage  of  growth,  will  rot  on  the  trees;  and  it 
must  be  admitted  that  other  fruits  deteriorate,  or  lose  their  most  essential 
flavour  in  the  absence  of  suitable  aliment.  Why,  then,  I  would  ask, 
should  we  expect  potato  crops  to  be  uniformly  good  every  year. 

It  would  be  difficult  to  name  any  production  of  the  earth,  that  yields 
full  and  perfect  crops  annually ;  on  the  contrary,  it  is  well  known  that 


180  APPENDIX. 

famine  has  been  of  frequent  occurrence  in  many  populous  countries, 
through  short  or  defective  supplies  of  the  necessaries  of  life. 

It  is  conceded  by  the  generality  of  those  who  have  investigated  the 
subject  of  disease  in  potatoes,  that  the  tubers  soon  become  defective 
after  the  tops  cease  to  grow ;  and  common  observation  teacheth  that 
when  plants  of  a  succulent  nature  are  deprived  of  their  functions  or 
means  of  growing  luxuriantly,  they  continue  to  deteriorate  until  their 
juices  become  so  corrupt,  that  they  not  only  die,  but  contaminate  the 
earth  in  which  they  were  planted,  to  the  destruction  of  their  neighbour- 
ing inmates  of  the  garden  or  field ;  and  even  potato  tubers,  after  being 
taken  from  the  earth,  will  injure  those  which  come  in  contact  with  them 
by  the  emission  of  their  corrupt  juices. 

Mr.  Teschemacher,  in  a  communication  published  in  "  the  New 
England  Farmer,"  observes,  "  That  the  potato  decays  previous  to  the 
appearance  of  worms,  and  that  worms  are  never  found  in  the  sound 
part  of  the  potato  either  eating  their  way  in,  or  depositing  their  eggs, 
nor  have  1  seen  the  worms  in  that  part  of  the  potato  in  which  the 
fungus  have  already  commenced  vegetating;  it  is  only  in  the  rotten 
part  that  the  worms  exist  after  the  fungus  has  caused  the  decay.  These 
worms  are  uniform,  and  appear  to  be  of  the  same  species  from  whatever 
cause  the  decay  may  arise." 

It  is  precisely  the  case  with  other  kinds  of  A^egetables,  and  also  with 
fruit;  and  it  is  evident  that  all  those  worms,  insects,  and  reptiles  which 
prey  upon  the  vegetable  family,  are  more  partial  to  that  particular  kind 
of  vegetable  matter  which  first  generated  them,  than  to  any  other;  hence 
the  Peach  insects  feed  on  its  fruit  in  embryo,  as  well  as  in  a  state  of, 
and  even  beyond  maturity ;  the  Cabbage  worms  also  prey  on  plants  of 
the  same  genera  or  species  ;  and  when  those  enemies  of  the  vegetable 
family  cannot  obtain  the  parts  which  are  the  most  palatable  to  them, 
or  congenial  to  their  nature,  they  will  feed  upon  diseased  trees,  plants, 
or  other  matter,  which  contain  similar  juices,  or  nuhiment,  in  prefer- 
ence to  any  other  description  of  food. 

It  is  generally  allowed  that  the  early  planted  potatoes  haA'e  for  the 
last  two  years,  yielded  as  well  as  usual,  and  that  they  have  been  of 
very  superior  quality.  It  is  only  the  late  crops  which  are  complained 
of.  Now,  it  must  be  admitted  that  if  the  seed  potatoes  planted  in  June 
or  July,  whether  raised  here,  or  imported,  had  been  diseased,  they  would 
have  sho\vn  it  at  the  time  of  their  being  cut  and  prepared  for  planting, 
as  it  is  notorious  that  the  discovery  of  defect  is  generally  made  at  the 
time  of  gathermg  the  crop,  or  soon  after  they  are  heaped  together. 


APPENDIX.  ISl 

It  must,  however,  be  conceded,  that  seed  potatoes  kept  until  July  for 
the  purpose  of  late  planting,  may  have  become  deteriorated,  because  those 
roots  being  biennial  cannot  be  expected  to  retain  their  health  and  vigour 
to  so  late  a  period;  which,  in  some  measure,  accounts  for  early  varieties 
being  more  seriously  aifected  by  the  extreme  heat  than  the  late  keeping 
red-skinned  varieties,  which  will  retain  their  vegetative  properties  even 
in  dry  seasons,  so  as  to  produce  a  good  crop  if  not  retarded  by  being 
over  heated,  to  which  they  are  liable,  especially  if  placed  in  contact 
with  acrid  manure,  which  is  destructive  to  all  descriptions  of  plants  in 
hot  dry  weather.  New  land  without  manure  generally  produces  the 
best  crops  in  dry  seasons. 

It  may  be  observed  farther,  that  when  the  leaves  or  vines  of  the 
potato  wither  prematurely  through  extreme  heat,  the  tubers  become  af- 
fected to  such  a  degree,  that  rain  late  in  the  season  hastens  their  de- 
struction instead  of  nurturing  them,  they  consequently  return  to  their 
native  element. 

From  the  above  considerations,  as  well  as  from  the  knowledge  I  have 
acquired  of  the  nature  of  plants  in  general,  I  have  come  to  the  conclu- 
sion that  the  alleged  disease  in  potatoes  was  not  occasioned  by  defective 
seed,  but  by  the  extreme  heat  of  the  Summer,  followed  by  the  excessive 
rain  in  Autumn.*  In  some  instances  the  defect  may  have  been  acceler- 
ated by  an  mjudicious  use  of  acrid  manure,  and  in  others  from  their 
being  planted  in  low  undrained  ground.  It  often  happens  that  potatoes 
deteriorate  from  not  being  property  dried  when  taken  from  the  ground, 
which  on  being  heaped  together,  become  lieated,  and  consequently  rot. 

All  which  is  respectfully  submitted. 

THOMAS  BRIDGEMAN. 
New- York,  February  1st,  1845. 

'  As  this  review  was  elicited  by  the  discussions  relative  to  the  defect  in  potatoes  the  last 
two  years,  the  conclusion  has  special  reference  thereto.  It  must,  however,  be  acknowledged, 
that  the  extremes  of  heat,  cold,  and  moistxre,  are  alike  delrimental  to  vegetation  in  all 
seasons  ;  and  that  hot  dry  summers  are  often  attended  with  results  as  fatal  to  vegetable 
productions  as  the  coldness  of  winter. 


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liiiii;i^iHr(n<  II  nil 


